Build a 12V DC Power Supply For Starlink RV
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- In this tutorial, learn how to build your own DIY 12V DC power supply for your Starlink RV dish. Using a 12V, 24V, or even 48V battery system, you can power your dish directly, and skip the Starlink router/power supply.
Check out the article on our site for more details: www.starlinkha...
Note: This section may contain affiliate links for the products mentioned
Supplies used:
Starlink Ethernet Adapter - shop.starlink....
48V DC to DC Converter - amzn.to/43sDJyx
POE Injector - amzn.to/3KH8FWc
Shielded RJ45 Connectors - amzn.to/3KHpU9N
RJ45 Crimp Tool - amzn.to/3YdorLG
TP-Link Router - amzn.to/3SAsksT
Pinout diagram @ 12:07
I am sure I will be called rude but I feel far more confident when guided by someone who has obviously done the job before. Blowing up my Starlink dish and or router would be extremely expensive and I don’t know if I’d be happy to copy you. No I couldn’t do better but thats why there are professionals on proper tv. Sorry.
Agreed, I was just linking to the timestamp of where the Pinot diagram in the video is.
I am not going to say the pinout in this diagram is wrong, but. based on what I am seeing on other sites if you have speed issues, I suggest you flip the blue pair polarity and the Green pair polarity. So the pinout would be [ Ow / O / BLw / G / Gw / BL / BRw / BR ] (that's O = Orange, Ow = Orange white etc...) Keep in mind what I am suggesting is a flip of the polarity and there is a lot of protection inside the dish. So trying it ether way should not hurt anything. Just to be thorough, I found a video to site as my source: Everlanders video (ruclips.net/video/gRSnTMrUPrQ/видео.html) skip to 15:31 if you just want to see what I am on about. All this being said, this video is excellent and gives lots of good info. This is just a possible solution if people are having speed issues. I really do not want to take anything away from the author of this video!
Thank you….
Best and easiest to follow DIY conversion I have seen. Fantastic job..
I really enjoyed your tutorial - well done. As a retired EE, I knew most of the steps but I still learned a few new processes. I never used the passthrough connectors before so this was one thing. What I really wanted was the parts list you mentioned and this video fulfilled that item. I did subscribe to your YT series & bookmarked your website. Thanks for all.
Love your work! I'm in Australia. My project is similar, to get my kit installed into my 4x4 (Landcruiser). My aftermarket router choice is a Teltonika RUTX11 - small footprint, dual band WiFi, dual SIM (for a 4G alternative to Starlink depending on where I am) - rich in features. I'm still working through the connectivity, it's there but not reliably. I think my buck-boost converter is not quite providing enough grunt. So I'll be going for the 8A version. Being a tech nerd, and dont have a huge power bank in my car, every single watt saved helps. Also living in the southern states of Australia (like you guys very north), it's not solar-angle friendly. So I need to make sure I save every watt I can. So, for those of you that are in this position, and/or understand that all inverters are a capacitive load that draw power all the time even when not supplying a load. They are inefficient in the process of converting DC to AC and then supplying a DC load like dishy. As has been explained well here multiple times. My setup uses 37 watts after bootup (with snow melt off). Add 7 -10 watts for the Teltonika. So less than 50 watts, proven through the shunt on board my 4x4. Never will an inverter-based solution deliver this. I'm using 60 watts when paired with a 500W pure sine wave inverter.
I recently have a problem with the starlink router, I want to use a POE injector just to operate the antena, how much Wattage does it need?
Fantastic video! Very detailed without a lot of "fluff' or "off topic" talk. I watched several of your videos over the last week or so. Love them!
This is such a great and straight forward tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Thanks, appreciate the feedback!
I just used your detailed procedure to convert my Starlink to 12v and it worked! Thanks for the great information. Getting the Starlink wires into the pass-through Cat6 plug was a CHORE! For some reason those Starlink wires did not want to cooperate and getting those 48v POE wires in the correct order is crucial so double-check your work. FYI for others, aftermarket routers have various power requirements with many of them using 9v so shop around.
Just finished my 24v setup following this video. Thanks a lot! Consumption is at 33-42watts with starlink and 5V router.
si 5amps is okay for the converter?
How long has it lasted on a single charge?
@@rwanda_learnscienceandtech6376 my battery was a bit more than 1 kwh so it was around 20 hours on a full battery
Great video. Just one thing which I see omitted in many other videos doing this mod as well - add a fuse!
Great job. I bought everything you have last year but didn’t build it yet. I screenshot the pin out so will do it soon. Thanks for going through it slowly.
Colby that instructional was PUUURFECT mate! Thank you from Oz. ✌
Thanks, glad it helped!
Good video. I change my Starlink V2 to fixed flat installation on my boat for about 2 weeks ago. No problem so far. Today I changed to 12 volt instead of Inverter. Powersupply as yours but only 4 Amp
I also bought the Starlink adapter YAOSHENG for Dishy V2 and the POE from same company The rj 45 for this setup is already made so no crimping needed. Using this to a router teltonika Rut 11
Setting Wan to dhcp all works I did not changed any thing in starlink settings (Router about 4 inches by 4 inches and 1.5 inches high) small and nice in my boat. Regards Svante
Best video so far on this!
Thanks, I’m hoping to provide an update after using it on my RV trips this summer!
@@StarlinkHardware please do if you can, it will help to see the performance in real life, also the heat it generates etc...
Thank you very much for these video ! It's a step by step, with amazing information ! I really expect starlink think about that, ASAP.
Colby, I'm making up a Word document of your method from your web pages but the following paragraph is somewhat confusing.
I am wondering if it doesn't need a couple of word changes to make things a bit more clear. Here's what you have . . .
"Next we need to reconfigure one end of an Ethernet cable. This cable will be what we plug our router into the POE injector with. Remember how I said the Starlink POE pinout is different? Since we had to modify the dish side of the connector, we also need to modify the router side connector to match. "
I would change this to read, "Since we had to modify the dish side of the Ethernet adapter, we also need to modify the PoE end of the router cable but the router end must enter the router unmodified."
something like that seems more clear to me anyway.
You're right, I did word it in a confusing way!
Thank you very much. This is what I will need.
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to show us how to do this, I am getting Starlink soon. I have my current router and dish on my solar system, with DC to DC buck/boost converters running for about a year now, off the grid. I was wondering how I would wire this Starlink up once I get it, so thank you again for this very beneficial video.
You're welcome, thank you for the kind words!
Great work mate. You made it look easy! any idea what happens if you leave your starlink on and drive around? does it go bonkers or does it stay sane?
What is the draw on the batteries when using this setup? Did you find it used a lot of power and quickly drained your battery?
You should mention that if the result is slow speeds less than 100 Mb there is a bad crimp and the RJ45 connector will have to be redone again until it works at full speed.
In the US, RV speeds above 100 mbps are pretty rare. I don't even get that consistently with Residential. More than likely, if the crimp failed, you would have an error or Disconnected message rather than slightly slower speeds. But a good practice is to figure out what your normal speeds are before the conversion, and compare the result after the conversion. Going from 60 mbps to 1 mbps would indicate a problem, for example.
Hey I have a question for you, did you do the Starlink set-up with the router before converting it to the TP-Link router or did you take the Dish out of the box and instantly convert it?
genius this guy is a genius wow
For your router use an automatic buckboost converter. Batteries are of 10.5-13.8v where the router requires 12v.
we just bought a 500w 12v to 110v over kill but it was only $35 work awesome.
Can you explain to us the method and take a picture of the device?
This might help someone else, I spent days trying to get this to work. The issue was the Starlink speed was about 0.1mbps - SUPER SLOW and unusable. The cause after many days of frigging around was the DC-DC powersupply used in this video and others, that coupled with the router trying to run the 1gbps starlink on the Wan port. If you can drop it too 100mbps it should work. Or as i couldnt do that with my router, i upgraded to a meanwell PSU it started working!
Good info, thank you!
Good video... thanks.
A note.. cutting the long cable (adapter to dish) may be required as it is virtually impossible to route the cable through the RV walls with the original cable ends.
Yep, good point. If you need a hole smaller than 3/4", which is what is required to run the dish side connector through a wall, cutting the cable might be the best option.
I'd find a better way to route the cable rather than cut it off then crimp a new Ethernet plug. Use a plate with rubber edging that closes back over the cable; I've seen them on videos. To me cutting is T-H-E last option.
Hi @StarlinkHardware, got all necessary tools. I am about to connect all pieces together
Could you please clarify if 2 amps cable coming from the 12v output UPC to DC converter 12 V/10amps input will work fine and won't damage anything ? The cable coming out of UPC is really thin compared to the thick one on the DC converter input
Also do you know how much time will it live before the 9ah battery dies ? How can i calculate this ?
Use 150ah batery, for good result
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have a doubt! The cable that will feed the router, at one end you replaced the connector position! Why? On one end?
Também estou com essa dúvida... Poderia nos esclarecer? Grato.
Great project.
Alright you made may day. Done it.
Just one question, i can’t connect to starlink app on my phone when connected to my router wifi (where starlink is connected). Connection can be made only externally when i turn on 3g data on my phone, app then is working but that makes problem for me because i need to handle it from local lan. I am using RUT11 Teltonika router.
Any idea why that could happen ?
Do i need to make starlink in bridge mode before i would want to connect to it via my router ?, or that does not matter and it should work via my teltonika wifi router
I'm having the same problem with this.
Did you ever solve the problem?
great video
You need a fuse off that battery. You’re shielded cable needs a Earth ground for ESD protection. Looks like you like nice tools? You need a nice DC connectors other than electrical wire nuts.
This was just to test to make sure the power supply worked. I'm installing this in my travel trailer with the appropriate fuse protection and electrical connectors.
Great tutorial! Did you already done a power measurement with your 12V setup? How much power do you need to run it constantly? How much is the power difference to the normal setup with original Starlink hardware and a small 12V inverter?
I haven't done any measurements yet, although based on my research through other peoples conversions, powering from DC directly can save anywhere from 10-20 watts. AC powered average: 50W. DC powered average: 30W.
@@StarlinkHardware Thanks for your answer, 30W sounds great. Currently I'm using the old round dishi from 2021, which draws around 80-100 Watts when using with an inverter.
Yep. Can confirm it. 30w to 35w is what I am seeing with my conversion too...
@@Dieter.Reuter ooof thats a lot in the long run
@@eupeixoto Thank you this helps, I did not know it would draw so much.
thanks for sharing.
Just want to say good job!
Thanks!
Thanks, very informative video. What’s the power consumption on your DC source? The Gen 2 uses about 50-100w so want to know if this setup provides more efficient use of power so battery lasts longer
Hey, silly question if you’ve used the starlink Ethernet adaptor could you not just use the Poe to power the dish and the use the Ethernet out from the adaptor so you don’t have to modify the RJ45 cable to the router?
That was the question I was going to ask. I use another ethernet adaptor in the house in that way and I can't see why not. Did you try it?
Ditto
Can you use the Ethernet port on the Starlink Ethernet adapter into the router?
Halo. Tuan baterai aki yang dipakai tahan berapa jam yah... ?
pure gold!
Thanks
I have my Starlink dish hooked up to my 1000 watt inverter in my travel trailer. What does this process do that I haven’t already done? I guess I’m asking why people do this instead of just hooking everything up to an inverter and running it that way?
Having to convert DC power to AC (inverter) and then back to DC (Starlink router) wastes a little bit of electricity. You can save around 10 watts or so by powering it directly from DC. If you don't mind the inverter and have plenty of battery that you aren't worried about 10-15 extra watts, it isn't necessary to build this.
Great Video! How long would this power source last…? Hmmm 🧐 Thank you
Depends on what battery you are hooking up to. The battery here was just a small 12V for testing, it wouldn't last more than an hour or so. I have an Ecoflow River 2 portable power station that will power a Gen 2 for 5 hours or so.
I would be really interested in what the total power draw from the nominal 12 V battery is when it has acquired the satellite. I don't think there will be a big difference, maybe 10 W.
I just want to call out the Amazon link you have for the POE injector is wrong. It links to the WT model, but needs to be the WTs model for the correct pin out for T-568B
Hello; we live in colder climate (Canada). Will Starlink dish-heat (to melt the snow) work with the 12V setup?
Thank you for this amazing easy-to-follow video; and I appreciate a reply to my question.
Hi,
Very detailed and useful end to end tutorial! Liked it very much!
I’ve got a question. Do you know if there is a POE with 48v converter inside somewhere on the market to avoid buying and connecting 2 separate pieces?
Sir 12v /65AH battery it's good to use a 12v-48 out put
Hello friend, congratulations on the video. I have a doubt. Is installation with an ethernet adapter really necessary? If connecting the RJ45 directly to the antenna cable would it work the same? Or is the ethernet adapter essential for installation? Thanks!
Good Video, Thanks.
Thanks for the the video it would be helpful.
I was wondering if already have some of those parts assembly together and we can buy from you.
What size fuse I should add to this system?
I added a 10A fuse to my Starlink circuit.
So you can disregard my earlier comments. I still would like some input from you. You definitely need the 6amp 48v step up. With that, and the GL-1200 router I got glitchy control of dishy. It would power up, find the satellite. I could also STOW it. However, the “speeds” were sporatic 10-25Meg/s, vs the Starlink router that could hit 200MegB/s. I read that this may be a shielding issue. So What are the speeds that you can get with your setup?
When I was testing this, I always saw above 50 Mbps, usually around 80-90 Mbps, which is normal for the Roam plan in my area.
So I did exactly what you did but using another router. Starlink powered up, went flat and found satellite. However it won’t connect. The light on the Starlink cable of the Ethernet connector is not illuminated, and that white line doesn’t show to the starlink app. My guess is I’ve a wire not connecting in the two crimps I made. I can remotely connect to the dish with LTE, and it shows similar download speeds. My starlink service is not currently active, but that shouldn’t matter right? Because I’ve been able to turn it on in remote locations with the starlink router. Thank you for your video…I’ll keep at it.
This is very informative and useful video. I just ordered mine and waiting to arrive. I just want to clarify if the modified cable to the router the arrangement of the wire(color coding) the same with what you did with the starlink cable? Thank you from Philippines!
Yes, both RJ45 connectors that you install will have the same pinout.
Who much is the power consumption? how many amps hour?
Really good tutorial, so I think you don't need to use the ethernet adapter. You connect the output of the inector directly to the router. Does that make sense or not?
You don't need the Ethernet Adapter, I only used it so I didn't have to modify the Starlink cable directly in case I wanted to use it with the Starlink router/power supply again. The data output of the injector goes to the 3rd party router.
But could the 3rd party WiFi Router connect directly (without a modified cable) to the Jack on the Starlink WiFi adapter dongle?
Great Job ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you!
Thanks for the info and video. I bought all the parts and tools. I'm having trouble getting dishy to power up. I have made sure the POE is measuring 48V at the green connector. I made sure to use 12 AWG cable from my RV battery bank(located about 4 ft away so might be overkill but wanted to match the wire size of the 12VDC to 48VDC buck converter) (6A - 288W version)
I'm trying to troubleshoot. Would the dish at least power up with just the POE if all was connected properly or do I also have to have the router in place in order for the dish to power up? . I've redone my crimps 2X on the Ethernet adapter and used the same tools and connectors you did. Any suggestions for how to troubleshoot? I tried waiting 10 mins for dishy to power up but never does. I made sure everything is still working when using the original PS. Any help or constructive comments appreciated.,
I believe I also replied to your question on the blog. But I recommend checking the RJ45 port on the POE injector for voltage. Should be able to put a meter on pins #1 and #8, to check for voltage there. That will tell you if the POE injector is bad, or if it's either the Ethernet Adapter or the crimps.
John, it's not just the voltage, it's the amps too. If you have a weak converter (not supplying enough amps) the voltage will drop down as Dishy boots and the load increases. It's 48volts all the time not just when nothing is in use. Sure, check pins 1 & 8 to make sure there is voltage but check at the upconverter terminals as Dishy boots. Must have good voltage at that time else your upconverter isn't up to scratch.
A word of warning. Get the cabling wrong and good chance you will stuff something up. Just sayin'.
@@jed2055: thanks. My 12v to 48v up converter was bad. I swapped it out and everything is working correctly now!
Did you made any special configuration to your router? I have done everything exactly but the router does not conect to the starlink network
No I didn’t do anything but default settings with my own WiFi name and PW. I would try connecting a device like a PC or something directly to the data port on the POE to see if you have internet. It’s probably a defective POE injector if there is no internet access from that port.
By any chance does bypassing the Starlink router altogether allows you to get a public IP or is it still a CGNAT case?
good question, but somehow i think the service is tied to the account type.....
Still CGNAT as your IP will come from the ISP modem (dish) and not the router.
You do not get a public ip, u will get a CGNat 100.64 carrier class ip. This cause getting public ip cost heaps for any provider these days unless u are a big boy like AT&T. AT&T has too many public ip's but will only sell off at exponentally high prices!
Hey mate
Loved you video on Starlink to 12v but I have one Question please..??
1/ Do you need to change to RJ45 plug from the POE to the Router Ethernet lead, if so what’s the wiring Diagram please?? You said you only have to change only one end. Why’s that. Cheers Rod from Australia
On the Ethernet cable that connects the router to the POE injector, you just need to modify one end of the cable. Either one is fine. The pinout is in the video at 12:13. You change just one end so that the pinout returns to normal after we flipped it on the dish side.
@@StarlinkHardware ok understand thanks mate 👍👍
Thanks for the tutorial! I followed all instructions religiously. It works fine when I power everything up but a few hours later, download speeds crater. At first I thought it might have been a bad POE Injector. I ordered a replacement but the same phenomena happened again. I tested all other components independently and everything seems to work as expected. I know my crimps aren't bad because I had already modified my cable to go through my van's walls and they work with the Starlink modem, no problem. Any idea what might be going on here? Thanks in advance.
Could be the Ethernet Adapter (if you used that in this project). Could also be the power supply voltage dropping. Are you getting disconnects in the Starlink statistics page? Obstructions? I assume this is a Roam service plan. Performance for Roam users will vary wildly depending on time of day and user density in the immediate area.
@@StarlinkHardware I'm not using the Ethernet adapter, so I wonder if it might be the power supply. That would be the last component I haven't ruled out entirely. I'll test it again and check the statistics page more closely to see if there are any disconnects. No obstructions where I'm running the test (it works flawlessly with the Starlink modem).
Having the same issue, low internet speed. The power supply you propose is not available on Amazon so i had to go with a 6 amp, could that be the issue?…already replace the RJ45 connectors twice.
I did see a video noting that the conductors on the starlink cable are pretty small and crimping can miss or partially miss some engagement with the pads. I would avoid the crimping if possible and maybe try the yaosheng connector
Por que as cores padrão são diferentes do T568B? E por que outros vídeos de outros vídeos do RUclips usam o padrão T568B no cabo original da Starlink para RJ45
Because the Starlink POE pinout is different than standard passive POE injectors. Other videos might be using different injectors that were introduced after this video was made, that convert the pins for you internally.
Great video! Is this valid for high performance starlink kit as well?
So what is inside that dc-dc converter? Why is it different from direct power from the panel?
It increases the voltage from your battery to the 48V needed for Starlink. If you have a 48V power source, it would not be required. Most systems are not 48V.
GREAT VIDEO, Colby. Did you need to do anything unusual for WiFi in the TP Link Router setup configuration? Would like to see anything you did that was not the same as a regular WiFi. I had heard that the dishy address needs to be forward to another address for an external router to work. But have not seen anyone show that.
Nope, didn't have to do anything special. Just ran through the TP-Link setup on the app, with default settings. After naming my Wifi network and setting the password, that was it.
Normally, if you are using an aftermarket router with Starlink, you would have to put the Starlink router in bypass mode because it's also the power supply. Since I built my own power supply and removed the Starlink router completely, that is not necessary.
@@StarlinkHardware Thanks for the answer about the TP-Link router.
I know we can use bypass. I want to remove it. That's why I am using cables and a separate POE Injector. Got that working. Using the same subnet on the test router as dishy is using, default after SL setup. Just,... can't get dishy to see the test router. (Actually more than one test router, same config.) Got right type pinned cables. Something I am missing, but you helped with info about your router. Thanks.
I'm not setting up for portability. I simply want the SL router out of the path, and the flexibly to restore it later.
@@obijuan-I am having the same issues with my tp link router, I would be really keen to hear how you resolved the issue
@@StarlinkHardware That question was CRUCIAL. i'm glad he asked and of course i'm glad you answered.
When I modify the router ethernet cable do I use the same wiring diagram that you used in the ethernet adaptor?
Do I need to put the starlink router to bypass mode before applying that?
Thank you for your amazing work! Question, is it durable enough to be used 24/7?
Should be, although how long the components will last running 24/7 is unknown.
So if you are powering it via a modified ethernet adaptor, can you use the ethernet port on the adaptor instead of the port on the POE injector?
No, because the wires for the Ethernet port on the Starlink Ethernet Adapter were cut. On the part where I initially cut into the cable, there are 8 twisted pairs, with 4 of them being smaller. The 4 smaller pairs are for the Ethernet port. I cut those extra ones off. There is no way to get them to install in a standard RJ45 connector.
Thank you.
Excellent tutorial video… thank you ! I am using your design for a 40’ sailboat and the new marine version of the StarLink high performance rigid antenna mount. I just ordered their extended length cable with the antenna connection on one end and a RJ45 connector on the other. My question is should I make the RJ45 replacement connector for the cable from the POE box to the TP Link router due to the pin design on the StarLink? Will their extended length cable with RJ45 end work properly as is going into the POE box and then I need to match with the change on the RJ45 plug coming out of the POE ? Hopefully I have described clearly ! Thank you ! Lee M.
To be clear, this is for the Standard Gen 2 dish, it won’t work with the High Performance marine dish. That unit uses more power and different voltage. I haven’t seen anyone attempt a DC conversion for that one, mainly because it uses so much more power. If you are counting watts, you don’t pick the High Performance to begin with.
Is the IP available on the Starlink internet CGNAT or Public? Is it possible to do port forwarding by eliminating the original router and using a mikrotik?
Hi what are the performance gain you had through this technic ?
Have you got a table co compare ?
Thank you
Great video. I am currently in the process of installing it. I am going to add a switch to turn the inverter on and off and a switch for the router too. Do you think a 10amp fuse woud suffice for the inverter?
Yes, a 10 amp fuse would work great.
Could I put the red and black 12v into a cigarette lighter connection?
Does this work with the older style round dish as well? I have the older dishy and router setup. I’m assuming I could just use the same setup you made but without having to cut the cable on my dish since it’s already an rj45.
Does the 12v-48v converter need to be 8 amps? What's the required amperage?
8 amps is what I recommend. You can technically get away with lower, but you run into the possibility of overloading the supply. It won’t use the rated power all the time, it just uses what Starlink needs. Most of the time nowhere near 8 amps.
Thanks for the walk through. Quick question, do you have to put the Starlink system in bypass before you do this? Or does it not matter?
Since we are removing the router completely, there is no need to put it in bypass mode.
@@StarlinkHardwaresabes por qué se habrá dañado mi starlink? Seguí todos los pasos del tutorial ahora no aparece activo ni en el router.
Do we need to configure the 3rd party router to work with Starlink App?
Is the battery rechargeable?
Hey buddy
I setup my 12v very much like yours but I have trouble with Starlink connection with my aftermarket router?? When I look at Starlink app the satellite said connected but when I connect to wifi router satelite Disconnects..? Any idea mate..? Cheers Rod
So when you are not connected to Wifi, like on cellular data on your phone, the Starlink app shows Online? And when you connect to your Wifi network, it shows "Disconnected"? You could need to create a static route to the dish itself on your router. It's possible the internet is working fine, your router just can't see the dish to pass information back to the app on your phone. See the blog post for more info about the static route to create: www.starlinkhardware.com/how-to-bypass-the-starlink-router/#Managing_your_Starlink_in_bypass_mode
Nice work!
Could you run another router off the Starlink adaptor's ethernet port? Im thinking of doing this so I can run my home router from the POE Injector and then run the office's router via the ethernet adaptors port.
No, the Ethernet port on the Ethernet Adapter doesn't function after cutting off the Starlink connector.
How long can the system last on with this battery?
Buena me podrías ayudar como se llama el poe si Venezuela lo puedo conseguir
Hello, is a mesh router mandatory? I followed your entire project, redid it a few times, but the router doesn't light up the internet LED or change the Wi-Fi name to StarLink. My router is the Archer C7 (without mesh technology). Thank you for your work in sharing this tutorial.
No, a mesh enabled router isn't mandatory. When you do this tutorial, you would set up your Archer router according to the manufacturer instructions. It wouldn't show up as Starlink unless you changed it to that name in the settings for the router. With this mod is your dish moving, just no internet?
If you’re going to use an inverter, why not just make 120v and use standard Starlink unit?
14:00 Pass-Thru 👍
Instead of cutting the SL cable, could the SL ethernet adapter be used ?
No, it isn’t connected to the POE section of the dish. It’s just an LAN port. It is also only connected to LAN through the Starlink router, so removing the router would render the Ethernet Adapter port useless.
i can not get the wires right,i have messed with it for 4 hours strait.i give up.never mind,i did it!thanks for your video!
Glad it finally worked for you! Even in this video you see that I had to cut the video and try again. The wires in this CAT5 cable are not as stiff as most of the CAT5 cable I work with. They are difficult to line up to get the connector to slide on properly.
@@StarlinkHardware i ended up stripping the wires longer-like 4 inches and inserted them 1 by 1.that worked really well and quick.
hi, is the starlink router neede to activate a new account ? i am looking for a used dish and would like to build this since we are nomads.
In the rare chance of lightning striking the dishy, is there a way to ground the Ethernet to something in the RV?
You could add an Ethernet surge arrestor, but the RV itself isn't grounded, so I don't know what good it would do. The surge arrestor is designed to be attached to a ground rod for home installations.
Need help sir, im here at philippines and we actually used different type of poe which is IEEE 802.3af, Power pinout are 4.5 + / 7.8 - and 1.2 / 3.6 for data out.. will you please indicate what is the power and data out of the starlink? or what should i do to get the right pins for my rj45.. thanks a lot
if you using the Yaosheng Dishy Cable Adapter... can you connect any POE injector to it? Would the blue/orange wire need to be swapped?
Também estou com essa dúvida..
Can I use the Ruijie RG-EG105G V2 as router? Im not sure if I can use it as router.
Have you (or anyone on this thread) considered the design for the Flat High Performance dish for roaming? Will this 12-48v DC to DC power the dish? I haven't been able to find power requirements yet to see if the watts / amps will power it. I have a dish on order. Thanks
I do know the Flat High Performance runs on higher voltage, 56v I believe. The cable is different. I'm planning on purchasing one this year for a van build, but haven't personally messed with the hardware yet to be able to answer the question. It's probably a similar process, where you need to install an RJ45 with modified pinout. Supply 56V. The Flat High Performance uses more than double the power, so you would need a much beefier power supply/poe injector.
It used more power so the 12v/24v upconverter needs to have more grunt whether it has to supply 48v or 56v.
Merci beaucoup, mais comment on prépare le câble sur connecteur RJ45?
Hello, and thank you very much for your video.
I just did the transformations according to your instructions, but unfortunately my Tp-Link does not see the starlink antenna.
Did you have to make a setting in your router?
I cut the antenna cable, and put an RJ45 plug at the end of the antenna, and made a small extension cable with the original plug, and an RJ45 plug with your wiring diagram.
If I plug both plugs into a female socket, and plug the original plug into the Starlink router everything works perfectly.
I'm stuck, if you have a moment to help me.
Thanks in advance. I am currently on a world tour on my boat, and am in Mayotte in the Indian Ocean.
Best regards and thanks again for your video.
When you say the TP-Link doesn't see the Starlink, do you just mean you can't access the Starlink app or web interface, or do you mean you don't have internet access at all?
I’m having the same issue? Did you ever get this resolved? My router does not recognize that the starlink cable is plugged in to it. Is there anything I could be missing?
How should I configure the modem for the first time? Tks
Is this in the BYPASS mode?(your demo)
Q: can i uplug the starlink router to ac source, while in bypass mode to another router or 3rd party? While im using the the 3rd party? Or replace the router to an poe injector?
Hope I can get an answer ty..
Can you make a video on how to transfer the interface of the SL router, to another 3rd party router?
Like what mode? PPOE, DYNAMIC,STATIC, or anything?