The First Major Problem On My New N54 BMW
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- Опубликовано: 1 янв 2023
- In this video I pull the transmission on my new 1 Series BMW. I show you how to do a clutch job on an N54 powered E82 or E88 1 Series. The procedure is nearly identical to the E90 and was relatively easy.
I install a 335is or 550i clutch as an upgrade over the stock 135i clutch.
You can purchase the kit here (affiliate):
bit.ly/3jNPIpu
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Been following you for about 3½ years plus now, and you are still one of the most informative and professional BMW channel on here. Thank you for your content and have safe and healthy 2023. 🙏
As an 08 135i owner just about to turn 100k miles on the original clutch, this video was timely. Can't wait to see everything else you have in store for this vert.
That fly wheel is toast!!! Heat spots tell the story
thank you so much, still working on N54..definitely i'll stick to the channel...
Glad to see you're still making videos!
A new video, good news! Appreciate the content man.
126k miles with the auto trans on my 335i and my clutch packs just went out. Currently saving for a new one
Great job Musa. Thanks for sharing and have a very successful 2023! Dutch regards, Nico
Ah, remember your Texas days without the lift? So much nicer now 👍🏼
Thank you Sir for another awesome video loaded with good tips. I had to change the original clutch on my 06 330i and the springs in the DMF had worn a hole and released the grease from inside. Clutch wasn't slipping yet. So I'd also check for bulging in the sides of the DMF before deciding if I keep it. I found a good price (500ish usd) online. All the best!
wow, it looks so clean on the underside.
I have a tip for replacing the pilot bearing. When I did my clutch we used a grease gun with a needle nozzle to shoot grease behind the pilot bearing(there is a hole in the middle of the back) and it pushes the bearing right out.
Beautiful work
Hope you’re doing good buddy
Worth noting if you do want to or have to change the pilot bearing, I've seen you can use a grease gun with Lincoln Industrial 5803 1/8in needle fitting from O'Reilly's to force the bearing out with grease from the small hole at the end of the bearing. Supposedly pops it out in seconds. Going to be trying this
As always your videos are great.You are very knowledgeable on these cars. May I suggest investing in good electric tools? I think it would make it more enjoyable to watch. Thank you. I need more time to watch more of your stuff.
Thic Whip drop his E82 video too .man what a great start into 2023
Thank you so much for making this video. The only critique I have is I wish you took more time and closer in shots of putting the tranny bolts and associated stuff back on.
But I’m about to do this job on jacks. Thank you again!!
if your talking about the bolts to block those are impossible shots.
heck yeah hoping this turns into a series like the e90
Hi, love your videos. Thank you. How is the rear glass on your soft top? Is it peeling? I know there are no soft top replacement videos on RUclips. You would help out many with that video.
I had a 135i for a couple of years but recently replaced it with a 128i convertible so different mechanicals but otherwise the car is very similar so I am really interested in what you decide to do with your car. The I-series really is a fun platform to drive!
You should do a review on one of those cheap $20 china bay shifters. I have one in my e39 and love it for the price.had to shim ball cups, lube them, shave down the plastic bushing that the shift rod attaches to and shim where the shifter goes into the arm off the trans but it seems to be holding up after over 20k. I think I used .002 on the ball cups and .003 on the housing.
I remember doing this to my 645ci SMG gearbox without a lift. Lol I gained muscle after 5days of work. All worth it after new clutch. Dumb me I didn't replace the flywheel while I'm at it.. also to those with smg gearbox better replace the 2 main gear selector sensor while you have gearbox down. Thank me later.
Love the channel, where can one get those jack stands?
Great videos as usually you have done thanks all them on long road. I wonder now you have convertible I haven't find anywhere about those V-bars under car from and rear and what are parameters about tighten torgues and angle, can you light me up a pit in here? Thanks again looks easy to change clutch but it's not so simple as I see, mine is ahead soon I believe and I have aut. Everytime your videos are great and detailed, thanks!
The flywheels can also knock and break apart partially. Once I had experience with a 540 of mine with the original clutch at about 160k hard miles from the original owners. It wobbled badly when cold and would warm up and wobble less. It would knock like hell when warmer. The flywheel was done! I believe the factory reference material has some sort of approximate procedure to verify if the flywheel is still OK - maybe a 20mm arc either way of movement? Unsure. I'd say common sense helps. Some "wiggle play" seems OK when grabbing and wiggling it with hands at 3&9 O'Clock, but if it is knocking at all, wobbling, knocking obviously when wiggling and twisting, it is done. I suspect that extended wobbling will possibly damage the engine crankshaft and bearings (probably not a worry for a small amount of miles driven lightly though).
The aftermarket also offers some nice for the price clutch tools to re-use self adjusting clutches. I believe my kit was by VidaXL and is probably Chinese. But for what it offers you, well, it's quite impressive. Has several clutch alignment dowels and etc. Dozens of bolts and fixtures for a variety of bmw self adjusting clutches. I think it was a relative pittance at $80 or so for a whole suitcase of metal tools. Probably more now. The press portion of the tool allows for you to squish the pressure plate and re-set the clutch disc adjusters (3 total springs and arms built into the pressure plate assembly) to achieve a "sweet spot" where the adjusters move somewhat freely. The kit has a little "holder" to then install when relieving the pressure in the press tool to hold one of the adjusters steady which should hold all three steady as its a single disc system inside the pressure plate. I do like to simultaneously assist that little holder with a screw driver or metal stick of some kind on another adjuster arm while relieving the press tool to ensure it doesn't jump.
After that initial clutch usage I suspect sets the adjusters back to where they want to be.
The shop manual probably freaks people out by saying you can't reuse the disc but people certainly do it.
We appreciate your videos, best!
I've been watching all your videos and I love your content you're the reason why I actually recently two days ago just bought a 135i twin turbo I've been following your videos for a while now cuz I never had a German car this is my first but I am actually running into a problem I was wondering maybe you can help me out
We should do a livestream to help y'all with questions, right?
That would actually be nice if you have the time you know no pressure I know you got a lot of things going on but I just want to say really do appreciate your guidance and your well made videos because if it wasn't for you I don't think I would have gotten a BMW in the first place because you're just so accurate and so detailed with your videos want to say thank you so much
Wow - nice work .. I hate that HF transmission jack but it works.
How difficult to go from AT to manual?
5:35 when you are this far better go for the dual sheer selector rod upgrade when you’re at it.
hey, if by any chance you're gonna stumble on an N55 where you need to do the rod bearings (bonus if xdrive), I'd love a video on that and learn. I'll have to do mine this summer and haven't done it before. I'm gonna watch your N54 rod bearings video though, thanks and hope you're doing well.
That’s a nice lift
I like the fact that you have attention to deal. Also what are those thing wheel jacks called?
Myliftstand all one word
You got a haircut half way through the video? Nice!
lmaooo perfect timing, I forgot to install my throw out bearing so i need to drop it again. I found out while trying to bleed my clutch and getting no hydraulic pressure 💀
hey dude, are you alright? hope you're doing well!
Came back with a fresh fade mid video.
HEY BROTHER! was there any longterm issue with the helix you had installed on your other n54?
Do you have any clutch recommendations for a 2012 e92 328i? It's got 60k and the throw out bearing is going but the clutch doesn't slip....although in reverse up hills it tends to chatter if you aren't riding the clutch enough.. I was told that people normally replace the flywheel at the same time they do the clutch, so thanks for that info on weather or not you really need to change it
Where have you been?
Where you at my dude?
The Gearbox was oily. Did you address the leak? I had this problem and it was the seal for the shifter rod.
Any update on the LSD conversion kit on your E90 ?
Wo wo. Did you lose weight? Looking great
Hey I was wondering if you could Answer a question. I have a 2008 BMW 328i E92 I purchased it with 60000 miles on it Is about 2 years ago I have kept up on the maintenance on everything changing my oil almost every other month I have about a 180 on it now I was wondering should I do the timing chain and guidesI can't find any information on people doing this I don't know when a good time to do it would be.
Where is your shop and how do we contact you to bring my n54 to you to get worked on or make a video on it?
Hi,
I have a bmw e90 330i with zf6hp gearbox and I have a problem with shifting in m mode. Even though the shifter is in m mode and the car shows it is in m mode it automatically shifts 5 and 6 gears when I let off the gas. It doesn't always do that. The transmission has had its fillings changed regularly. And it doesn't show a female error. I feel like I've tried everything except replacing the transmission. Thank you very much.
One of my turbos went bad but no blue smoke. Just a loud grinding, grating noise. Have you ever come across that with bad turbos? 148k miles on them. 2009 E92
Hey I had a couple questions about a manual swap is their a way I can contact you (I have watched you e90 video but just wanted to get some things clear)
Why not replace the rear main?
Has that car been washed since the paint correction two months ago????
Any updates??
Recommneded to get one of these in 2023? Index 12, turbos, waterpump, etc a lot of maintenance to keep it running? Vert or coupe? Heard coupes handle extremely well?
Maintenance cost more than the car
You ok?
Can you please share the link for the lift stands?
Those are mine look up Myliftstand all one word
has the channel stopped?
What lift is that?
Remember when he was just a voice lol.
Does it make sense on an older car to change the rear main seal and trans mount while the trans is dropped?
Yes
would yall look into it further if your n54 has been going thru roughly 300mls of coolant every 2000kms or so? its been consistantly doing this for the last 50000kms or so. is it fine or should i look at the ofhg.
Maybe radiator has tiny leak around the seams. OFH gasket causing coolant leak would be going into oil causing milkshake.
I've only had to replace my upper coolant tank hose that goes across the top of the radiator, the lower heater hose, radiator, and coolant tank. Replaced the OFH due to an oil leak too. Have gone through 2 radiators at 148k miles.
Mousa, what is the name of the lift stands and where did you source them from?
Look up Myliftstand all one word, I'll talk about them on a future video. Since you spend so much time on scan tool it is nice to have the car at a height where you can get under or on top, and be able to open the driver door all the way
@@igotaction how safe are these over standard jackstands? What type of saftey mechanism does it use?
@@thisguyshorty3554 4 spring loaded locking pins, they have 2,000 lb capacity. So long as you are on flat ground to me they seem the safest option.
Looks like you are down a few pounds, lookin good my friend
Anyone know what those wheel jack platforms are called @ 9:30 ??
Myliftstand all one word
The updated E18 bolts are not steel bolts?
Yes they are, if you go to dealer
I always disliked how the 1 series comes with a rag top vert, while the other models have the far better hard top verts, 1 series are still cool though
At least the rag top is lighter. But yeah, not getting a vert for the weight and prefer the hard top vert versions.
How come you don't like using power tools?
Cause I took them on a trip😂😂😂
ZF8 swap
Ls swap? 2jz swap? Big single with direct injection delete?
DI delete is so underrated. So many headaches caused by those DI injectors.
@@milehighboost5521 I’m hoping one of the RUclips n54 guys come up with complete ecu and DI block instructions. I would rather do port 1000cc injectors than buy $3300 direct injectors.
@@illwil1005 Stay tuned. It's happening. Can't say much more yet.
This is daisy from GuangZhou CYS Auto Parts Co.,Ltd.We are 15 years' air suspension parts manufacture
Are you interested in suspension parts?If yes,I send you our catalog for your browsing
Never understood why you would buy a single post lift when you can get a double for almost the same price. Makes no sense.
It does when the landlord doesn't allow drilling in the slab
Lifter is not good
I would like to present a comment as well about real world repair versus shop manual "word of god" obedience.
The drive shaft Giubo / guibo / flex disc bolts are requested to be replaced, bolt and nut. And surely the bolts to the rear diff too. Angle torque is specified. And specified typically to be torqued from the nut side. There is precious little room for the nut side. So: therefore to precisely tighten the nut (example, lets say 50nm plus angle 90*) you probably must purchase a Stahlwille torque angle wrench ($1200+) plus 16/18 open face wrench insert $40 ea and new hardware even if the existing steel hardware is in good shape.
You may receive Puritanical shaming (ok, thats embellishment) by some RUclips commenters and Channel owners if the letter of the law in the factory manual is not followed precisely. The driveshaft will fall apart the guibo will prematurely rip etc. I find this laughable. I have torqued those by the bolt side to the spec and have had no issues. The bolts are large, m12 or so, made of some coated steel, and probably 10.9+ in grade usually stamped.
I have a stahlwille (purchased used from a guy who deals with these) torque wrench that lacks angle measurement and I do have some attachments besides the ratchet head for it. Its a cool system. Very professional. That said I don't feel like spending $1500 more in these difficult times to torque the nut sides perfectly. I think its perfectly acceptable to torque the bolt head side and then if you wanna be really good and proper, mark the but and turn it 90* or the specified angle torque with a doubled up wrench or whatever you can fit there. Or do it all bolt side while holding the nut.
Or just gun it in. Seriously. I doubt factory, nice guy way outlined above or a good experienced gunning will fail ever.
In short common sense should be employed as a BMW expert mechanic likely would not even waste time worrying about anything beyond "the bolts are properly tight based on my experience".
BMW and other manufacturers have gone overboard with their torque requests to the point of absurdity for many bolts. While I understand its the proper way, I doubt highly skilled no or low come back BMW and European mechanics or the dealer replace every bolt.
Aluminum bolts, for starter oil pan etc, head bolts in most cases, damaged bolts, supplied bolts and nuts with suspension etc should be replaced. But to do everything just perfect seems a stretch that I doubt most mechanics are doing.
As Musa said, this is just my opinion. I don't see a cascade of failures happening if bolts aren't perfectly perfect torque as most people probably just tighten them very well and forget about it and never experience any sort of damage or failure whatsoever.
In short reality versus perfection listed in the shop manual requires some common sense and experience. Replace what's necessary or damaged. And learn to understand the difference between absolutely required versus ideally " required/ suggested"
Been reusing driveshaft bolts since 1993, all that really matters is the shaft is marked in case it comes apart so the balance doesn't get F'd up
Thanks for the kind reply Joel, older BMWs you can reuse and new BMWs they want a change. Yes marking the shaft for disassembly for center bearings is an excellent point and should be done as a good practice. That said probably a lot of split drive shafts on the road running fine put back whatever which way - hehe
First!
Second
what are the jacks at 9:30 very clever
Those are mine you can look up Myliftstand all one word
What are the wheels stands called