BMW E9X Trans Removal DIY!: E9X 335i Spec Stage 3+ Clutch/Flywheel, Rear Main Seal, Trans Seals
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- Опубликовано: 11 авг 2021
- In this video I walk you guys through the process of dropping your E9X manual transmission at home on some jack stands! The car I'm working on is a 2009 BMW 335i, but this process should be more or less the same on any other E9X 335i (N54 or N55), and should be nearly the same for all of the E9Xs powertrains.
Spreadsheet for parts I used: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/...
Grease Gun Tip for Pilot Bearing:
Lincoln 5803: amzn.to/3bmvZZZ
While the trans is out of the car, I replace the N54's rear main seal, the input shaft seal on the transmission, and the shift selector rod seal on the back of the transmission. Other good things to replace during this job aside from all the clutch components are the giubo (flex disc) and transmission mounts, along with downpipe gaskets and hardware.
My car had a clutch disengagement issue which led to me needing to drop this transmission, despite only having around 15k miles on the clutch since I manual swapped the car in April 2020. Turns out I needed to replace the clutch, as mine seems like it failed prematurely with the spring coming out. It also seems like the clutch didn't properly match the pressure plate it came with, but the new part I received was correct. All of this combined with my failed pilot bearing and throwout bearing meant it was time for a full refresh. I will be making a separate video altogether dedicated to diagnosing my transmission issue, and what I think went wrong. Hopefully this video helps you with your transmission work!
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Thank you! This was so helpful!👌🏼 made everything easy for me and ordered parts ahead of time that I didn’t know I was going to end up needing .
So glad this was helpful!
Thank you very much Sam!
Great effort to make a top quality and helpful video!
Awesome video. Super informative, helpful and honest not looking forward to the remainder of my part of the job but the crystal ball is way more clear, thanks.
Yeah its a pretty involved job, but you got this man
@@SamAbraham After two painful weeks I finally found that the spec 2+ did not fit my car even though I made sure through spec and fcp euro that it would fit. The clutch would not fully disengage thus my gears grinding when the engine was running and the shifts being super stubborn. When I would fully disengage the clutch with the engine running I would attempt to force it into gear and it would just start lurching forward kinda supporting the premise that it was not disengaging properly. I just returned it and installed an ACT clutch and flywheel and haven't had any problems with the clutch since. Crazy cause I did a lot of forum research and a lot of people with the same car and other cars had this problem with spec. Just got lucky I could return it, hopefully they honor this return.
Still haven't got the car on a long road trip since now my OFHG is leaking a lot more and dripping on my belt. This video helped a lot tho for this install just wanted to throw this out there in case someone else had this issue. Thanks a lot for the install video saved me a lot of headache.
Great video, nice stuff
Great video 10/10 👍🏼
Thanks man 👌🏾
Great video might be the most informative one I found.. Im doing my 1st clutch job.. id figure if I mess it up - at least I've learned something.... How did you know your clutch was going / gone? I know mine is gone I just want to compare symptoms. Thanks
I do believe you can use either rear main seal. I have a both blocks in my garage the depth an diameter is the same on each block. Just install flush with the surface…but for sure if you use the old version use sealant :)
The thinner seal would sit far too deep in the groove, and it wouldnt fully contact the points where the bed plate meets the upper half of the block, so I'd definitely avoid using the thinner seal in the older engines if that makes sense.
@@SamAbraham the seal groove in both the older blocks and the newer blocks are the same depth. You would just have to be more careful installing the newer type seal as you don’t want to drive it beyond just past flush. The flat white ring that comes with the seal kit is what you want flush for the proper install depth.
How high would you say the car has to be to clear the trans?
How does Spec Stage 3+ compare to the OEM? Would it be a good choice for my daily? I would like a firmer clutch pedal but not so much to make driving unenjoyable.
I wouldn't know haha, my car has never had an OEM clutch. When I manual swapped it a couple years back, I bought this setup from the get go. For some perspective I daily drove it for nearly a year and had no problem with it, I personally found it comfortable but everyone's different.
Do you have a link on the tool you use to get the throwout bearing out
Assuming you mean pilot bearing? The throwout slides right off but the pilot requires the grease gun. Any generic grease gun will work, I believe I bought mine from Autozone. The important part is the tip, I just added a link to the video description, its a Lincoln 5803.
The grease gun method with the Lincoln 5803 nozzle for the pilot bearing didn't work for me. The thing won't budge and the grease just start pour out as I continue to pump it in. Any tips?
Damn thats interesting, haven't heard of that NOT working for anyone hmm. At this point I'd either pull a torch out or let it soak in some penetrating fluid overnight and revisit it with the grease gun.
@@SamAbraham Thanks for the advice Sam. I have a puller/slide hammer on the way but I think I will try filling it with grease and hammering the largest punch I've got in there. How does the torch method work?
The one part I needed to confirm happened to be the one part you didn’t record😭lol. Just wondering, as long as the trans lines up with the engine and the dowels slide into place, is it safe to assume that the splines have lined up correctly? I had a hard time lining mine up at first.
Yes, it wouldn't slide on completely if the splines weren't lined up
Nice video. Thanks for the details. I have an 08 335i convertible. Just found out the rear main seal is leaking, scoped it and found that it pushed out. Car has 130K miles. Not looking forward to pulling the automatic transmission so scouring the webs looking for video tutorials. This one definitely will help. thanks for the content.
When I swapped my car from auto to manual I had to do the same thing. Its a bit heavier and a little harder to see the bellhousing bolts due to the size of the auto. Also you'll have to remove some trans cooler lines, as well as the torque converter. Remember to remove the torque converter bolts BEFORE dropping the trans. Other than that its very similar. After I finished this clutch job I also dropped the auto trans in my 5 series, would be very similar to doing it in the 3 and it really was not that bad as long as you have the right tools for the job. Trans jack or at least two people is a must for the auto. Best of luck!
@@SamAbraham Thanks for the reply. I'm tackling it by myself but have been my own mechanic since I was a kid. Have the tools. I'm most used to 60's 70's Mopar stuff, but have always worked on anything I've owned from mid to late 80's turbo 2.2l Dodges, Supercharged 3800 GM's, and even the newer Hemi's. Just a bit BMW scared as I've heard they are temperamental. But after watching a bunch of vids and seeing how some people wrench on these things, I hope I'll be okay. Thanks again.
Got the Auto Transmission out. Actually wasn't too bad, but you are correct, the BMW engineers make you use every Torx size known. (My theory is that years ago a mechanic was caught having an affair with an engineer /designer's wife and these silly hard to get to designs was the engineer's way of getting back at absolutely every mechanic) Broke the downpipe bolts but I pretty much figured that was going to happen. Just ordered the replacement steel bolts for the bellhousing, new flex plate to crank bolts, and a few odds and ends. Once again, thanks for your video, it's been a great help.
Late reply but I'm glad you're getting it sorted. I think your engineer/mechanic theory is right 😂
Mine did the same shit
This trans is identical in a 6 speed 328i m sport I'm pretty sure right?
No, the ZF GS6-53BZ trans was only used in cars like the E9X 335i and up, all the way to even the current G80 M3. The 328i and other N51/52/53 cars didn't require a gearbox as strong, so it has the GS6-17BG or GS6-37BZ
just about to take trans off and my car is also may 09, and i already bought the 8mm seal 😭 if its not leaking i think i just won’t touch it
mine actually was the 8mm. the seal itself said 03-09
that's very interesting, truly no idea what is correct then. The change must have happened some time around then
I’m dreading doing the clutch on mine ugh
definitely a big job, don't put a time constraint on it if you can. It'll be much less stressful that way
How long did it take you in total time?
My main issue was waiting on parts, but to give you some perspective I initially did the auto to manual conversion in 22 hours straight with no breaks. Doing just a clutch would be significantly easier, could be done in a day easily. Day meaning 10-12 hours. If its your first time doing it, give yourself a full weekend and make sure you have all the parts you need beforehand.
Did you drain the trans?
Nah, I had changed the fluid about a thousand miles earlier so didnt need to
Damn man amazing video however I just watch till 40 minutes and you didn’t film the part we’re I was the most Interested. I’m working on a 335i Xdrive 2014 manuel the problem is the shifter linkage has broken from the selector rod that attaches to it atleast I think so as the shifter is completely free and wobbly. I removed the rubber boot and can almost confirm that the arm is not attached to the shifter linkage which your showing at 22:30. From underneath the car there is no possible access point to this linkage shifter as it sits on the transfer case. How am I to attach the arm back to the shifter ???? Client stated he had his clutched replaced by a Russian mechanic for 400$… Now this issue happened shortly after the repair. He was driving and his stick just gave out it’s all wobbly and car was and is stuck in 5th gear. My question is even if I take out or tilt the transmission how will I ever be able to attach the shifter linkage back to the shifter arm There is no information anywhere on the internet. I have spent the last 10 hours doing research and cannot get anything. I’m starting to grow grey hairs right now man please if you know anything and I mean anything it would mean the world to know as I’m literally baffled right now. If I tilt his transmission to the floor will this give me the room I need to reach on top of the bell housing and transfer case to fix the issue. Please again anyone have any links to a forum or post or any thing godbless you guys and a happy new year