Wow, You are absolutely the best! Your attention to detail is just like me! Your style is a perfect fit for me - to help me change my red 3rd gen fluid and filter! Thanks so much - you're around my age too - and you love these 3rd gen camaros! Make more vids please about this car!
Thank you very much! Yes, I do have attention to detail due to many years in automotive engineering. This is my first 3rd Gen car and I have really come to enjoy it.
I take it everything went smooth after putting it all back together. I just bought an 1988 with the Z28 package, with only 28000 original miles. I was told during inspection, all the fluids need flush. Rear, coolant, brake fluid, power steering, and transmission. I guess sitting in a garage, fluids still go bad. By the way, good video. 💪👊
Yes, the change went fine and all was well. The 1-2 shift was a little better but still rather harsh at times. I bought a second gasket and more fluid to make a second change and inspect the 1-2 accumulator (they can get sticky), but the shifts have been gradually improving with miles so I have held off for now. I have about 8,000 miles since the car is back on the road with many of those as highways running. It is probably a good idea to go through all the fluids, but there is a priority order. I would go to brake fluid first as it absorbs water. If the system is sealed it absorbs slowly, but it still deteriorates. Coolant is right up there with the brake fluid because it deteriorates in storage. The trans fluid can have some deterioration of additives while sitting, but is less critical. PS and axle are less important as they really don't age in storage. I did my axle because it was past 100k. I haven't done PS yet, planning to replace the PS pressure hose and will do them together.
@@bitsofwisdom460 The prices they charge at a service center is off the charts. It's good for people to learn a little maintenance on their vehicle, it can save them thousands on labor. Thanks for the video and your time showing others how to do their own maintenance. 💯💪👍👊
Just did it on my car not hard at all, just having the right tools. I do this on a daily basis on Ford F-350 and 450 at work, just sucks no having a lift at home to do it had to throw my 6 ton Jack stands underneath the car to have enough space to remove the pan. I used the ac delco filter kit, and Valvoline full synthetic transmission fluid car is running great!! Thanks for the video
I did mine on my 91 Firebird Formula this past weekend. Mine did not have that clip. The filter kit I received from AC Delco, included a note in there stating the filter you are replacing may be obsolete and the retaining clip can be discarded. It looks like the older filter design may have required that clip. Thanks for posting the video, it helped me on "What to expect" to change the filter. I didn't have to remove my cross member, but that thing is kind of in the way and makes it a bit tricky to lift the pan up onto the transmission.
Thank you for your feedback. It is good to know that there is an official AC Delco notice on that clip. Next time I go in I can remove that clip. It certainly appeared that the filter design was updated, but it wasn't clear what to do with the clip. Regarding the crossmember, it's good if you can leave it in place and still get the bolts started. In my case, someone was in a hurry and crossthreaded it. It's too bad the crossmember couldn't have been a little farther back, but it was likely designed before the 700-R4 was introduced. It is expensive to retool and revalidate those parts.
I purchased the ACDelco filter/gasket kit and the instructions state that in some 1987 and prior vehicles, the neck may cause the oil pan to rock and may crack when the pan is bolted on. If the pan rocking condition occurs, replace the pan with pn 8663948. This pan is 1.0-1.5 mm deeper than the earlier ones. Unfortunately I have this issue on my 87 and need a new pan unless I can find an older style filter. Have you experienced this on your 85? The instructions also mention to remove and discard the retainer clip as others mentioned.
@@bitsofwisdom460 thanks for confirming. I ended up buying the ACDelco TF235 filter even though Amazon said it wasn’t compatible. This filter fit my stock shallow pan but I didn’t use the cork gasket it came with. I used the paper felt gasket from the other kit with incompatible filter.
Is there a way to check how often you should change your automatic transmission fluid, or its just by checking an especific amount of miles accumulated? Thanks in advance
Automatic transmission fluid is normally changed based on miles accumulated. The primary cause of ATF degradation is time at temperature. As temperature increases (over ~ 200F), oxidation rates increase dramatically. The manufacturer's recommendation of mileage is based on an estimate of how hot the transmission will run in operation and the fluid properties. That is why the maintenance schedules often talk about normal vs "severe service". Severe service is usually defined as heavy stop and go in hot weather, mountainous, trailer towing, and so forth. Operation that will push the fluid up toward 250 F will more quickly degrade the fluid.
Hey from Germany, I just bought a Z28 Iroc-Z 1987. And I was wondering (its my first oldtimer), is it normal that the car shakes hard when you move from P -> D and or any gear changes?
It depends and it's hard to judge from a distance. It should not shake, but it may not be as smooth as it could be. For reference, my car is very firm going into drive or reverse. There isn't any noise, and it doesn't bang or be harsh, it just goes in firmly or a little abruptly. It is more firm with a cold engine when the idle speed is high. I would rather it be a little softer, but it's not objectionable. In addition, the 1-2 shift can be actually harsh at times. Cold, at light throttle, it will shift hard enough that the tires will squawk at times. The 1-2 softens when the transmission warms up and at heavier throttle. The other shifts are all quite smooth. I think the 1-2 is abnormal and need to look into it. The "garage shifts" into gear at a stop are some of the toughest to get completely smooth, but they really shouldn't be harsh. Now, if you have most or all shifts harsh, that is not normal. It could mean that the pump line pressure is too high, the TV cable is out of adjustment (that will affect line pressure), or there is some other problem. Sometimes performance cars get aftermarket shift kits that make everything more firm. It's hard to tell that without an expert looking at it.
I went back and checked the video. I think that is completely normal. The engine mounts are relatively soft in the roll direction to absorb "idle shake". When you shift into gear, especially if the shift is a little hard, the engine will torque over. The "garage shifts" in my 700R4 are a little abrupt. I believe that these clamshell style engine mounts are contained by steel to limit movement, compared to some of the 1960's mounts that could separate and the engine could actually tear and lift off of the rubber. There were some recalls over those back in the day.
![Wiz Khalifa - Khalifa's Home [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnrLCTe0Nz4/mqdefault.jpg)
I just purchased the same one in pretty much the same shape please keep this content going. And thank you for what you have already released.
Wow, You are absolutely the best! Your attention to detail is just like me! Your style is a perfect fit for me - to help me change my red 3rd gen fluid and filter! Thanks so much - you're around my age too - and you love these 3rd gen camaros! Make more vids please about this car!
Thank you very much! Yes, I do have attention to detail due to many years in automotive engineering. This is my first 3rd Gen car and I have really come to enjoy it.
Excellent, another important service complete. I was amazed there was not moisture in that pan after sitting so long.
Nuther good maintenance show... Keep em coming and we will all have a great reference for our cars!
I take it everything went smooth after putting it all back together.
I just bought an 1988 with the Z28 package, with only 28000 original miles.
I was told during inspection, all the fluids need flush.
Rear, coolant, brake fluid, power steering, and transmission.
I guess sitting in a garage, fluids still go bad.
By the way, good video. 💪👊
Yes, the change went fine and all was well. The 1-2 shift was a little better but still rather harsh at times. I bought a second gasket and more fluid to make a second change and inspect the 1-2 accumulator (they can get sticky), but the shifts have been gradually improving with miles so I have held off for now. I have about 8,000 miles since the car is back on the road with many of those as highways running.
It is probably a good idea to go through all the fluids, but there is a priority order. I would go to brake fluid first as it absorbs water. If the system is sealed it absorbs slowly, but it still deteriorates. Coolant is right up there with the brake fluid because it deteriorates in storage. The trans fluid can have some deterioration of additives while sitting, but is less critical. PS and axle are less important as they really don't age in storage. I did my axle because it was past 100k. I haven't done PS yet, planning to replace the PS pressure hose and will do them together.
@@bitsofwisdom460 The prices they charge at a service center is off the charts.
It's good for people to learn a little maintenance on their vehicle, it can save them thousands on labor.
Thanks for the video and your time showing others how to do their own maintenance.
💯💪👍👊
Just did it on my car not hard at all, just having the right tools. I do this on a daily basis on Ford F-350 and 450 at work, just sucks no having a lift at home to do it had to throw my 6 ton Jack stands underneath the car to have enough space to remove the pan. I used the ac delco filter kit, and Valvoline full synthetic transmission fluid car is running great!! Thanks for the video
You're welcome. I'm glad that the video helped you. And, yes, it is tougher without a lift. Those 6 ton stands sure ought to so the job, though
I did mine on my 91 Firebird Formula this past weekend. Mine did not have that clip. The filter kit I received from AC Delco, included a note in there stating the filter you are replacing may be obsolete and the retaining clip can be discarded. It looks like the older filter design may have required that clip. Thanks for posting the video, it helped me on "What to expect" to change the filter. I didn't have to remove my cross member, but that thing is kind of in the way and makes it a bit tricky to lift the pan up onto the transmission.
Thank you for your feedback. It is good to know that there is an official AC Delco notice on that clip. Next time I go in I can remove that clip. It certainly appeared that the filter design was updated, but it wasn't clear what to do with the clip. Regarding the crossmember, it's good if you can leave it in place and still get the bolts started. In my case, someone was in a hurry and crossthreaded it. It's too bad the crossmember couldn't have been a little farther back, but it was likely designed before the 700-R4 was introduced. It is expensive to retool and revalidate those parts.
I purchased the ACDelco filter/gasket kit and the instructions state that in some 1987 and prior vehicles, the neck may cause the oil pan to rock and may crack when the pan is bolted on. If the pan rocking condition occurs, replace the pan with pn 8663948.
This pan is 1.0-1.5 mm deeper than the earlier ones.
Unfortunately I have this issue on my 87 and need a new pan unless I can find an older style filter.
Have you experienced this on your 85?
The instructions also mention to remove and discard the retainer clip as others mentioned.
I didn't have an issue with the pan on mine. It went on just fine.
@@bitsofwisdom460 thanks for confirming. I ended up buying the ACDelco TF235 filter even though Amazon said it wasn’t compatible. This filter fit my stock shallow pan but I didn’t use the cork gasket it came with. I used the paper felt gasket from the other kit with incompatible filter.
Is there a way to check how often you should change your automatic transmission fluid, or its just by checking an especific amount of miles accumulated? Thanks in advance
Automatic transmission fluid is normally changed based on miles accumulated. The primary cause of ATF degradation is time at temperature. As temperature increases (over ~ 200F), oxidation rates increase dramatically. The manufacturer's recommendation of mileage is based on an estimate of how hot the transmission will run in operation and the fluid properties. That is why the maintenance schedules often talk about normal vs "severe service". Severe service is usually defined as heavy stop and go in hot weather, mountainous, trailer towing, and so forth. Operation that will push the fluid up toward 250 F will more quickly degrade the fluid.
Hey from Germany, I just bought a Z28 Iroc-Z 1987. And I was wondering (its my first oldtimer), is it normal that the car shakes hard when you move from P -> D and or any gear changes?
It depends and it's hard to judge from a distance. It should not shake, but it may not be as smooth as it could be. For reference, my car is very firm going into drive or reverse. There isn't any noise, and it doesn't bang or be harsh, it just goes in firmly or a little abruptly. It is more firm with a cold engine when the idle speed is high. I would rather it be a little softer, but it's not objectionable. In addition, the 1-2 shift can be actually harsh at times. Cold, at light throttle, it will shift hard enough that the tires will squawk at times. The 1-2 softens when the transmission warms up and at heavier throttle. The other shifts are all quite smooth. I think the 1-2 is abnormal and need to look into it.
The "garage shifts" into gear at a stop are some of the toughest to get completely smooth, but they really shouldn't be harsh.
Now, if you have most or all shifts harsh, that is not normal. It could mean that the pump line pressure is too high, the TV cable is out of adjustment (that will affect line pressure), or there is some other problem. Sometimes performance cars get aftermarket shift kits that make everything more firm. It's hard to tell that without an expert looking at it.
what was the torque on the pan bolts?
My manual says 11 N-m / 8 Ft-lbs
I noticed when you put your Iroc into reverse it twisted that engine. You aware of this?
I went back and checked the video. I think that is completely normal. The engine mounts are relatively soft in the roll direction to absorb "idle shake". When you shift into gear, especially if the shift is a little hard, the engine will torque over. The "garage shifts" in my 700R4 are a little abrupt. I believe that these clamshell style engine mounts are contained by steel to limit movement, compared to some of the 1960's mounts that could separate and the engine could actually tear and lift off of the rubber. There were some recalls over those back in the day.
Like 5:08
Yes, that oil extractor is really a nice tool.