The trend is going away from changing fluid/filter because the vehicle is only designed to get you out of the warranty period. That’s the “life” of the vehicle to the manufacturer. So if they engineer it so that 85% of all the vehicles made can double the warranty period ( let’s say warranty is 100k but 85% will get to 175-200k miles) without ever opening the transmission. 97% will make it through the warranty period with no issues. That’s all the manufacturer cares about. You get 150k miles and your transmission goes out you either drop 4-8k to have another one put in or go buy another 60k vehicle. Simple.
That filter is to the cooler. If you don't change it, you will overheat the transmission eventually. In fact I came across a garage that apparently thinks the way you do. The result was the cvt overheating and going into safe mode because they wouldn't change the filter. I started doing my own cvt fluid changes after that. After I had that filter changed, no more overheating cvt. Why does that filter need replacing? The fluid breaks down from the engine heat and hence why the fluid has to be changed. Also the transmission has wear just like the engine does. The older the fluid the more wear that occurs. That filter is there to filter out small metal particles and to keep them from clogging up the transmission cooler. The filter can only hold so much and must be replaced or else the fluid flowing through there gets restricted. There are also one or two magnets in the transmission pan that need to be cleaned of the metal particles when the fluid is changed.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6kWhy would the manufacturer install a transmission FILTER to begin with if it didn’t have a function? Because it does actually have a function. It FILTERS and every filter that I’ve ever dealt with, no matter the application has a finite life expectancy.
Every single metal-on-metal surface or clutch/band assembly constantly produces microscopic pieces which break down with every single revolution of the gears. Those pieces eventually clump together and form varnishes due to the heat. That varnish clogs the filter, and reduces the line-pressure of the transmission slowly over time. I still believe in the old rule-of-thumb. Change the fluid and filter once at 30,000 miles to remove the initial break-in wear, then change the fluid and filter every 60,000 miles thereafter. The amount you're spending on a filter and fluid is far cheaper than having to buy a new transmission because it was not maintained.
@@PetesGarageandperformance anyone who works on transmissions for a living should know that it is an important part of vehicle maintenance. Not as often as oil but almost every vehicle has it in there maintenance schedule. Every 30-50k miles transmission fluid change and filter change is to be done. You are making videos on something saying you don’t need to do it when every car manufacturer in the world says it is routine Maintenance and SHOULD be done at a certain mileage..
Im at nearly 475k miles on my 98 Tacoma with original automatic transmission and have never changed filter. Still running good, although the trans pan gasket has gone bad for the 4th time and needs replacing again.
The reason why you change the transmission filters is because of the clutch material and other things that are wearing out and wearing in in the transmission
Change those transmission filters between 60k to 90k depending on how hard you drive, weight you haul or trailer towing. Clean the trans oil pan. I have seen trans filters plug up & damage transmission. Transmissions are very, very expensive to replace & usually not as good as the original. The transmission is the most expensive part of your vehicle & will leave you stranded needing a tow, costing you over $5000, so if you want to be sure it last forever, install a transmission cooler & change the filter. Heat is what destroys 90+% of transmissions. Dirty filter will starve fluid pressure causing clutches to slip & destroy the transmission.
@@Pwn3540 I said "install a transmission cooler", not replace often. Most vehicles, especially ones loaded or pulling trailer or driven in hot weather, need an extra transmission cooler. Ask any good transmission rebuilder and they will tell you that heat is what destroys 90+% of transmissions. Modern full synthetic trans fluids don't wear out, they just get contaminated with clutch material that will clog your filter & destroy your transmission.
@@michaelhaiducek2648how do you install a transmission cooler tho if there aren’t company’s that make a kit for your car? Also would it not block a good chunk of your radiator?
I'm just in the process of trying to decide what transmission maintenance service I need to maintain a Subaru Outback with over 220,000 kilometres on it. I might replace the filter anyways as there seems to be conflicting information here although I do think Pete's Garage has a valid point. The Subaru Maintenance Manual for Schedule D says "replace transmission fluid". I don't know if that means a change or a flush, but I'm thinking that a flush is better.
I came across due to inquisition regarding the necessity to change AT filter. 2009 focus has no drain bolt so ATF goes everywhere when pan is dropped. This is the sole reason I am wanting to avoid changing the filter, otherwise I would not care whatsoever. I will tap into the return line and drain as I fill 1 gallon at a time. I also wondered what would contaminate the filter requiring a replacement. Great video. Thank you!
The filters get clogged from clutch material and the fibers break down over time unless the filter is a metal mesh. . It felt the same with fluid change only. After the filter change, transmission felt smoother.
Well as someone that has his truck in the shop at the moment because of a plugged-up filter, and though I do agree with you that if your filter is plugged up that there is a worse problem changing it once a year may help delay the inevitable.
I totally agree with you. Most transmission filter will only filter to maybe 100-200 microns size particles. Most clutch wear particles are smaller than that & go right through the filter. I dissected a transmission filter on our '07 BMW X3 with the French made GM transmission, running Dexron VI fluid, and had 132k miles on it. The filter almost looked new. I had to check the date code molded on it to see that it was the original filter. Also, the magnets pick up most of the steel particles, the clutch particles will eventually settle out & adhere to the pan vis surface tension. That's why you have to wipe them clean. So, IMO, a "drain & fill" will do the trick. I do it about every 10-15k miles which replaces about 40% of the fluid. Thanks for you video.
Same here i had my 4l60e rebuilt and beefed up. I put her into another astro van at 10,000 miles.added deep Pan.replaced deep type filter from shallow one.i feel same highway Miles replaced fuild about 3 times in 70,000 miles.no issues. Started shifting little harder so i just took off pan. Cleaned. And replaced ac delco filter. Shift s nice corvette servo. Shift kit also.i will cut open filter to inspect. 3 and 4 shift flawlessly. When new bam into 4th.2 nd feels like normal. Little firmness. So i agree im curious to inspect.thanks for view.
Ok Horses you absolutely right and right, and ChrisFix is also absolutely right because I saw ChrisFix on his video was breaking apart the previous transmission filter and show us when transmission fluid you suppose also to the transmission filter, and us a lot of metals inside of the previous transmission filter, thanks to you Horses and thankfully to ChrisFix, and yes transmission filter supposes to change
I do agree you probably don't have to change it near as often as other filters, I'd think after two fluid changes you should definitely replace it. They say fluid lasts 60k miles yet I don't think I've gone over 10k on a fluid flush and it's already discolored to the point I need to change it again. ATF may not be subject to fuels and the like but it still gets hot specially in the summer and breaks down and the more it breaks down, the ability to dissipate heat and lubricate lessens and thus more wear on the parts.
I think, you made me think I need more research on what I might need for my transmission. Knowing before you spend crazy money, is priceless! Thank you, appreciate you sharing!
@@PetesGarageandperformance bro I love your video I hope you can get back to me and respond. I have 1990 corvette with the 700r4 and the first gear and second gear works but when it want to shift to 3rd it slips and stays in second gear. All my coworkers tell me put a new filter and change the fluid ,put a new filter and change the fluid,if I do that is it really gonna change anything?
Totally a great and valid point I've been working on car since I was 5 years old am now 44 years old and I will tell you this much transmission filters hardly ever need to be changed unless like you said it is a catastrophic failure they also have to remember that transmission fluid also has a detergent in it which allows it to stay clean so no you do not need to change your transmission filter you may need to change the fluid at some point three to five years maybe but you don't have to change the filter unless something totally goes wrong like metal shavings or something thank you for the good point
There will always be a normal amount of clutch material wear. The filter makes sure that this doesn’t get into the pump, valve body, cooler, etc. There is enough surface area in the filter media to accommodate this “normal” amount of clutch material. If there is more material/debris than the “normal” amount, you would have shifting problems. Then it would need to be rebuilt anyway.
Would you change one that’s been sitting for 16 years without having any fluid circulated through it? Just bout a project truck and yes it’s a 5 speed manual and wondering if I should due to it sitting for so long
Depends on the vehicle. Some cars are easy and cheap. Like my Infiniti G35, the filter is right underneath the drain pan and cost about $10. So if you have high miles and your removing the drain pan, might as well change it while your at it. Others might not be necessary unless your rebuilding due to the filters location.
If you're already need to remove the transmission pan like to replace a damaged pan or leaking gasket, otherwise you just created a bunch of additional labor for yourself as now you need to replace a gasket and remove and retorque a couple dozen additional bolts that you otherwise didn't need to touch.
Changing the transmission filter can cost over $300 in labor, parts, and new ATF. If you change the filter and fluid yourself, it's a more cost effective measure. Changing the Transmission Filter is cost effective insurance compared to paying a mechanic to rebuild or replace a spent transmission. On my 2006 Siena and my daughter's 2002 Camry, I have to unscrew the left engine/transmission mount and rock the engine upward, with a bottle jack, to access the transmission drain pan screws to get to the transmission filter. It's not a quickie job for a mechanic so, to avoid paying for the labor involved, I do it myself.
They asking me 350$ to change transmission filter and flush transmission fluid... In toyota camry le 2016... Thank you man you just saved some money for me... God bless you
It makes sense to change it you are planning on keeping the car. There will always be wear in moving parts. A transmission change in the future is way more expensive than a simple filter and fluid swap that costs less than $150 in parts every 3-5 years.
Never flush it. It moves the gunk around to places it shouldn’t be. Yes you should replace the transmission FLUID. I suppose this guy is just saying the transmission FILTER doesn’t need to be changed.
I appreciate your advice. Makes complete sense. You have relieved my worry about my 4L30e transmission with over 165K. I never replaced the transmission filter and I am never intending to have the filter replaced. My only routine maintenance is to periodically partially drain and fill with new ATF. * I am worried about clutches wearing out and I suppose a new filter is not gonna gonna effect the future wear.
If it shifts ok now. There probably isn’t anything to worry about. If the clutches wear out, it was probably just time. No filter change is going to affect the wear on the clutches.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I'm no transmission expert. But wouldn't the tranny fluid filter clean the dirty old tranny fluid like how an engine oil filter cleans the contaminate of the engine oil??? I guess it is a fallacy and misconception....that is not how tranny fluid filter works right?
Pete, I completely agree with your logic. In my case, changing the filter in my C4's automatic is what actually killed it. My fault 100%. I didn't remove the old O ring before installing the new filter. I think I damaged it while trying to dig it out. That allowed air to be sucked into the trans fluid. After doing a 1/4 mile run, the trans started slipping real bad. The first thing I did was pull the dip stick. The trans fluid was loaded with little air bubbles. After letting it sit for an hour, the trans started working normally again. But, the damage was done. Under certain high throttle operations, the trans would slip and not upshift. In hindsight, I should have never messed with the original filter. Now, in my 96 Impala SS and my 2003 C5 Vette, I leave the trans filters alone. The trans in my Impala made it to 270,000 miles before I had it replaced.
thanks for sharing. The dealer tech put the rebuild flush amount of oil back into the transmission after a pan drop. I had several EXTRA quarts and also had tons of air bubbles and burnt smell. I did a trans flush after that and they confirmed what I had seen at the dip stick - several extra quarts of oil from the Dealer pan drop, filter change! My transmission failed soon after the flush but it was definitely caused by the dealer tech error. Since the transmission had the rated 275K miles on it and I was just trying to extend the life of the transmission I didn't pursue the dealer error. But your story confirms that as you say, "the damage was already done." I got a rebuilt transmission - for a few thousand dollars. They put in new cooler lines also though at my request. I'm now 10K miles later and so figuring out if I should change out the filter myself...or do a flush before the fluid gets burnt without changing the filter at first...hmm.
96 Camaro here. I was having a lot of issues when I would shift into R the car wouldn’t wanna go and the RPMs would go up but the car wouldn’t go anywhere fast.. lot of delay. Well, I changed out the filter, gasket, and fluid for the first time ever in my car 221,000 miles… the car shifts great now.. probably should have done it a long time ago. I think I’m just lucky. Probably wouldn’t go crazy with it but wouldn’t go past every 60k miles without doing it.
The biggest issue with changing trans filter is accessibility. Some transmissions must be removed and split open to even get to the filter. Not worth it in my opinion.
@@edocsil1635 most newer FWD GM and Ford transmissions have “lifetime” filters that are deep inside the transmission and are only replaced when rebuilding the transmission.
The transmission is still metal on metal contact, it doesnt have to be a catastrophic amount of metal that comes off. You still have to change the filter, since you only need to change your transmission fluid every ~ 60k miles, its not that big of an issue to spend $70 on a new filter. If there was a catastrophic failure, the filter is as reduntant as the bolts holding the fluid pan. youll need 2k for a new trans, however if you dont change your filter and those metal pieces make their way back into the transmission, that could potentially be the CAUSE of the catastrophic failure. Again, you dont change your transmission fluid that often as engine oil because theres no need, so it shouldnt be a point of saving money since the spacing between when you do it is fairly large
I agree that if you are into the transmission that you should change the filter. But you don’t need to drop the pan on most transmissions to change the fluid. They either have a drain or you can use a fluid exchange machine using the cooler lines (my prefers method). When I worked at the dealership we had two options: just a fluid flush with the machine, or drop the pan to change the filter and then do a machine flush. It usually would cost an extra $80-$100 to do the pan drop and filter. They don’t put a filter on manual transmissions or differentials. All they use is a magnet to catch debris. A filter is used on automatics because they have to keep the pump, valve body, cooler, and piston seals clear of metal debris. However, if there is more than the “normal” amount of debris that the filter is designed to handle, the transmission needs an overhaul that changing just the filter won’t fix.
Hey you seem pretty knowledgeable and I have a question my transmission seems to be going out the other day was making a whining noise on the freeway halfway home it got stuck in third gear now when I started up it drives for about 1 minute and then it stops driving all I get is the engine revving won't go into reverse unless I just started the car should I change the filter or just get the transmission replaced??
The only reason the filter is replaced is that you had to lower the pan to get the fluid out and so if the pan is already off why not just replace the filter anyhow. If, however, you have a drain on the pan and the transmission is working correctly, just change the fluid. If you are really worried about the fluid quality, then replace the fluid in the pan via the drain more often. I installed a drain in my pan by using a roofing sheet-metal screw. It takes a little while to drain the fluid through the rather small hole but it seals as it should. The screw cost about a nickle.
No dont act like you know it all. Explain honda transmissions.... They have an internal filter because people believe that this filter will never clog. Wrong. Many customers drive their cars for 15 and then go into limp mode. Why??? Because the filter gets clogged. Clutch material builds. And makes a difference. They only have a drain plug. Get out of here with this nonsense. Change it. Why risk it. Except with honda because you have to take apart the whole transmission.
@@jmquickfix I won't say they will never clog. Honda transmissions do have an external filter as an internal. The internal filter you have to pull the transmission. The external is usually in front of the radiator. Also this video is just garbage.
In all honesty I have never taken out my transmission filter and see any form of build up on it. It's always very clean and the mesh is always free of debris . This guy has a point
I was really having thoughts about this for weeks!.. Must I chage or not.. After watching your video, surely I have decided to NOT change the transmission filter. Thank you for this video, it really helped me.. Greetings from Cyprus.
I also believe that to drain and fill is safer for high mileage vehicles and the trick to that is do a drain and fill and a month later do another drain and fill and your fluid will be 90 percent new
I have a GM 6 speed auto transmission that's a sealed unit with no dipstick. I replaced my filter as it was the first transmission service. Fluid looked dark. The old filter was average inside considering the fluid was about 6 years old. The pan gasket was in good condition as well. I believe if you plan on doing regular fluid drain and refills (every 30,000 miles), you can keep the old filter and gasket. Just replace the filter and gasket if its the first initial transmission service (100,000 miles or 6 years)
The factory gasket on the 6L series transmissions is reusable and a new one is kind of expensive. Those aftermarket rubberized cork replacement gaskets are junk compared to the factory gasket.
I have never changed the transmission filter on my Mercedes 2000 model c class .I only add trasmission fluid and it is working fine .Thank you for your logic 👍🏻
You can get it out of the torque converter you just keep filling running and dropping it takes about 15qts to completely get everything out of the converter maybe even alittle more they used to have drain plugs on some torque converters not anymore though. I still change my trans filters every 60 thousand but I see your point. I just rebuilt a 4l60e too, the new stuff is taking all the fun out on working on automotive.
Hey Pete I do agree with what your saying about filter in transmission. Ive got the 3.6 and the auto has no drive. After dropping the pan I can clearly see its never been opened. The filter itself was holding the finest and the kitty litter sized pieces and smaller filings collected on the magnet. In seeing that i could confidently say shes seen better days and a refit is called for. Plus a new filter.
Good video. for those of us that are Nissan fans. on a CVT that part that was in his hand is not a filter ,its just a pick up screen. There is a second filter that is a canister filter mounted on the outside of the transmission of inside the case near the valve body.
I agree that a dirty filter equates to a damaged transmission. However, consider this situation: The transmission appears to have no issues, except for a soft humming noise when you let go off the throttle. To find out there are a lot of shavings in the drain plug. Probably a torque converter running a little dry. If one replaces the filter and recycle ALL oil, one should get 20K more out of that transmission...
If the filter doesn't catch all the contaminants and the contaminants get into the valves the valves can get blocked causing damage to clutch plates. Clutch plates usually get damaged by putting extreme usage on the transmission such as spinning tires, hauling trailers, or blocked valves which cause overheating of the fluid. Filters do get clogged with clutch contaminants and metal as the magnet in the pan gets to the point where it can't pick up any more metal after being coated with wear and tear metal bits over time. When the filter gets gets clogged with clutch contaminants and the valves stop working and vehicle won't shift between 1rst and 2nd or 2nd to 3rd, most people think the transmission is completely gone but it can have another 50,000 miles on it and just need a valve replacement and new fluid replacement.
Pete, thanks for this; traditionally I've just replaced filters like you said - now I'm rethinking it! What I wish manufacturers would do is incorporate an external filter we could change that filtered better than the internal filter. It would give an opportunity to inspect the transmission fluid. Ideally, a cartridge type filter.
Hates doing basic transmission maintenance. Later calls the trans a POS when it fails early. Change fluid and filter where applicable when mileage due. Pan drop only - NO flushing. This guys video is for clicks only. Do not follow his advice.
@@Joedoriamusic some automatic tranaxles Have an internal filter you can’t get to unless you disassembled the case ,but I always change the filter if it’s under the pan
I had a 1990 Ford escort. I pulled the pan off at 125k. Had drained the fluid and replaced at about 75k. I had noticed that the transmission was starting to slip. Grant it I was not hot rodding it but I noticed it. I took pan off and replaced the transmission filter. I cut up filter. The fine screen inside was completely covered with tiny pieces about 1/8 deep. Was blocking flow. After replacement went away. Easiest car was 1996 Saturn,. External transmission filter. Same size as oil filter. Cost about the same. I changed every 20000 miles. Never had issue. Had that car up till 225k. Finally sold because AC went out.
On old but well functioning transmissions the pan usually has a coating of viscous dark material and so does the filter. It seems probable that this is from the clutch and band coatings due to normal wear. Is it possible that new fluid with additives at full strength can resuspend some of the finer particles and circulate them? Then cleaning the pan and a metal screen type filter in solvent seems likely to remove most of it and lessen the wear, since these are the lowest points.
Many replies were general common sense reasons to change the filter, but you made a really great logical point that I've never heard anyone say. Maybe some rare person doing a drain and fill every 20k could probably get away with not touching the filter for a long time. But after 60k+ miles of unchanged trans fluid there will be some sediment... and after 100k there would be a lot. It makes total sense that new fluid with cleaning additives would resuspend that sludge back into the transmission doing a drain & fill if the pan wasn't dropped and cleaned at the very least. But at that point why would anyone not change the filter which is easier than removing the pan? The only reason they've invented lifetime trans fluid that never needs changing is for environmental tax breaks, and tariff reduction on imports; it's true. But that really makes sense what you said, and the reason I'm adding a trans filter to my fluid order for my upcoming drain & fill. Thanks!
I’ve had a couple transmissions lose pressure due to clogged filters. Worked fine after filter replacement. It’s not a waste of money of insure pressure is maximized.
Thanks for your input. I've got a 2000 Camry that runs great except for being very slow at taking off. Thinking this could be the problem. Of course, this was never a fast car. But it has been a wonderful low maintenance car. 320K.
The reason why the filter needs to be replaced is because all the parts will very slowly wear over time creating very small particles of metal and the filter catches all those particles over time, catastrophic failure is different and does not parts are not being worn out even with good oil in them.
Have you ever opened up a transmission filter with over 100,000 miles on it and inspected the filter media? I have several times and there was virtually nothing on the filter media itself. The filter can catch any larger metal particles from when the car was new and the transmission was going through the break-in process but the very small metal particles will go right through the trans filter (it's not like a motor oil filter). Many trans filters are nothing more than a metal mesh/screen. Worn clutch particulates also do not get caught by the filter but instead get suspended in the trans fluid itself which is why it's a good idea to change the trans fluid regularly and in most cases and shorter intervals than the manufacturer suggests. In many newer cars, the trans filter is no longer even accessible but instead built in to the trans internally and on accessible by completely disassembling the transmission because the filter is only meant to be changed once the trans itself needs rebuilding.
Thanks Pete. Your perspective certainly matches what other professionals have told me, based on their experience. The transmission ‘filter’ should be called a transmission SCREEN, and then people might realize that it’s there to catch the big chunks. It’s better to to completely flush the fluid then to only replace portions of it at small intervals. Now, blow their mins and remind them that Honda doesn’t even use transmission ‘filters’…
The filter filters the shavings. If there a certain amount of shavings in the filter, it will hinder the flow of the fluid. So if you're changing the fluid, why NOT change the filter as well. It makes absolutely no sense to have clean fluid flowing through a filter saturated with blackened fluid.
As someone who had run many Jeep Cherokees with the venerable AW4 trans it is pretty common for guys to just drain & fill the trans at regular intervals & still get 300k or more out of them. Even if we are not towing, climbing, or rock crawling the short trips, stop & go, idling in traffic is hard on the trans so we should service per the severe use recommendation. If you're not spending hours pulling, removing gasket or RTV without scraping the mating surface the time saved & lack of dread will more then make up for using better fluids & even changing more frequently. I've never cut one open, but on the AW4 the filter is a coarse screen & functions primarily as a pickup. Also I don't see it being critical that the magnet is cleaned when the fluid as changed as its general a strong magnet & will hold plenty of clutch material. Thanks for taking the time to tell me what I wanted to hear!
Interesting! My 2008 HHR user manual footnote 'h' says "Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: (1) in heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90F (32C) or higher. (2) in hilly or mountainous terrain (3) when doing frequent trailer towing (4) uses such as found in taxi, police, or deliver service. It also qualifies this maintenance task as a 50k, 100k, and 150k "severe service only" task.
I agree with your reasoning. Totally makes sense. Two other things I assume add to your arguments are that the filter is probably designed to have enough surface area to handle normal amounts of wear materials and if there is a magnet in the tranny, it will catch most metal normal amounts of magnetic metal particles.
You are correct for simple metal mesh filters, but some have a multi layers filter like post 2011 Mercedes 7 and 9gtronic. There is a paper like layer to catch thinner dust and I think for this type of filter it is better to change the fluid and the filter
I've changed a few AT filters, they all look completely unclogged. Unlike oil filters, they're usually a metal screen of fairly porous size, the fine particles goes right thru the screen anyway.
Somehow transmission fluid are known to turn black and dirty. If you don't change the fluid soon enough the filters will be very dirty and prevent fluid to past through the transmission.
Only way to know if filter is getting dirty is from pressure drop test from before and after a filter. And yes a filter can have dirt or metal inside and still be doing it’s job. The filter shown in video is just a sump pump screen and not a true filter. Sometimes behind a attached cooler is an actual small filter that definitely should be changed because of physical small size. Any filter change can help with slightly better flow or pressures helping last longer life for the cheap price of filters!
since its a closed system, routinely change the trans fluid every once a year (approx 20k km, whichever came sooner) will keep the trans in good shape. so just like you said, if the trans filter is clogged, then it surely means the owner rarely change the fluid -> problems in the trans..
I agree. My 20 year old xl-7 is on the same filter. There is no instructions on manual when to change transmission filter. I didn't even know it uses a filter till like a year ago😂
I read the comments, a lot of the folks say change the filters. I agree. Did the oil changes and not the filters on new trucks, and the transmissions fail...consistently. My mechanic says, the fluid pump exchange works good, well it hasn’t worked.
i agree, the key is to run your temp lower by adding a trans cooler and changing your fluid every 25k, I just pump out and add new fluid, takes 20 min cost $20. 320k miles on my trans and it runs smooth as ever
It depends on the vehicle, how many miles it has, and how long you plan on keeping it, because if it's an older vehicle you plan to keep for awhile, then yes, a filter and fluid change will come into the picture at some point, simply because if you change the fluid and not the filter, the old filter will dirty up the new fluid faster.
If you're able to change the filter on a transmission, do it. That transmission fluid can get hot sometimes depending on how much you're towing and the type of cooler you're running, also type of environment you're in. Coming from a person like me who's been through three transmissions and never considered regular maintenance on them or even taking a peek at a certain mileage later after the rebuild. You may not have to change it as often as your oil and air filters but it is definitely something to consider just like your differential other fluids. After watching a video, by precision transmission shop they shown them changing out the filter and fluid 3,000 mi later on a 4l80 transmission that they built. Didn't look like much at first but as soon as you could see the filter up close you could see all the black soot from the wear and tear from that first initial break-in. But after that you can go probably 50 to 100K depending on your driving.
Pete's right. This is not an oil filter that filters down to at least 20 microns. Unless you're installing a Magefine filter or something similar to the transmission hose line, the fluid is literally passing through mesh or sponge, both of which are designed to catch shavings and the like.
I'd say you're right in general ,though I'd stretch the oem cycle from 1:3 so potential shavings would not factor performance if given. You have far than a stilled mind your stated claim is proof along your altruism.
Depends on the transmission and the filter. Once I saw the filter in my wife's QX4 (aka Pathfinder) was just a "rock catcher" screen, I knew it wasn't worth replacing. Other transmissions have real filters. Do you think that the material in a real filter is not going to fail in 20 years/200k miles (which is less than the last two cars we had, bought new)?
I agree with your hypothesis. I've never changed sealed unit ATF or filter on a car, unless there was a problem with the transmission.... in which case it always needed more than a fluid and filter change anyway!
Hi Pete, as an engineer I agree with you. It's just another way dealers make extra money from so called service, but most of the time they cant do a service correctly.
Great video. What do you think about yearly drain and fill cycles? I know is not ideal, but you are renewing 30% every single year ... and is easy. Thanks! Editing for adding: To your point, I couldn't agree more. If filter would really need to be changed, they would have invented a more easy to access design. Regards, Nacho.
Periodic drain and fills. Swear by it and have had cars and trucks both run 400k without a hitch. Even if pan removal is a pita I’ve pumped out and pumped back in exact amounts. Wala fresh fluid !
*_Going to be changing out my 91 Toyota Pickup transmission filter. Still has the original one and my dad already bought the new filter. Might as well since im going to be serviging the transmission with new fluid 😂_*
I changed the transmission filters and oil in every vehicle I owned except for 1. It was a Ford F-150. Transmission failed at 81,000 miles on the F-150. Other vehicles included Dodge Durango Ford Explorer 3 each Dodge Ram 1500's Dodge Charger R/T I only changed the oil and filters in the 3 Dodge Ram 1500's The other vehicles were done at the dealership. Could be just coincidence but the only vehicle that I had transmission problems with is the one I never changed the oil or filters in the transmission. Note: My son had a dodge Ram 1500 and never changed the filters nor the oil in his transmission and his transmission went out as well. Not sure how many miles he had on it though. His truck was 2 years younger than one of my Dodge 1500 truck. I know have a Dodge Ram 2500 with the 6.4 liter HEMI It is at 60,000 miles and many may think this is too soon to change the oil and filter I don't. It's an easy job and only cost $100 for the fluid and filters. I tow a camper with my new truck and don't want to have trouble on a long camping trip and that is why I am changing the oil and filters. I know many will disagree but this is how I roll !
@@PetesGarageandperformance I doubt it as well I think just a coincidence. The transmission place rebuilt it then it left me on the side the road twice. He accused me of hot rodding the truck and said that it would be the last time he would work on it. I got a lawyer and they really looked at it better and they had something in the transmission installed backwards. A ring perhaps. It was a long time ago. But that is when I swapped from Ford to Dodge and have never had any trouble with a vehicle again. I have a Ram 2500 and the wife drives a Durango. Zero problems thus far.It may not make a difference to change the filters but it does give me peace of mind and I like doing it as well. I take pride in keeping my vehicles in mint condition and I keep them for an average of 10 years as well. Although I envy the fact you know how to rebuild these complicated transmissions now a day. You got another sub.
Gillis Danos lol the trans shop tried to blame you! That’s the thing with these transmissions, one little screw up and it won’t last long. Thanks for the sub.
@@PetesGarageandperformance Your welcome. Now if a shop would say that I hot rod my 2500 they would be right. 6.4 HEMI with 4:10 rear end is fun, fun, fun !
I bought my 2000 Silverado with the 4.3L and 4L60E transmission back in 2006 that had around 60k miles at the time. It's been my daily driver and currently has just under 240k miles and never even changed the trans fluid once. I'm kinda ashamed to even say that, but I've always put it off. I'm not sure if the previous owner had ever changed it! It still drives and shifts without any problems! I'm getting ready to finally change the trans filter and fluid today, and am curious to see what it looks like in the bottom of the pan. I may have to update this and let you know how it looks when I get done. I changed the rear diff fluid once and that was within the past year! (Go figure) lol Yes, I do change the oil and oil filter regularly! The only mechanical parts that I've had to replace (knock on wood). -Steering Rack & Pinion (180k miles) -Power Steering Pump (225k miles) -Distributor (230k miles) Goes to show how reliable GM is!
I change the filter the first time I do it and replace the pan (If available) with an aluminum finned deep pan with a drain plug. I just do fluid drops every third oil change. Dorman makes replacement pans that are actually very good with drain plugs. If you own a Honda the filter can't be changed without major disassembly.
I WISH THAT SOMEONE LIKE YOU LIVED AROUND THIS AREA , SOMEONE THAT CAN BE TRUSTED WITH TELLING THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT IS WRONG AND NOT MAKE THEM PAY MORE THAN THEY SHOULD PAY, YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
Some transmissions are not "Sealed." Almost all the transmissions I've encountered (Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, Hyundai) all had vent holes on top of the transmission case to allow the "crankcase" to breathe. That's what a friend of mine told me who happened to be a transmission mechanic. I pretty sure that those transmissions will breathe in some dust driving down the road. My Hyundai Excel took water through that vent in a Houston flood that submerged that part of my transmission. To fix the issue my buddy flushed my transmission for a case of Bud. He used about 25 qts of fluid to do the flush. That is when I learned the only way to get a relatively complete fluid change is with a flush machine. I bought an "03" Suburban which does not go into reverse immediately when it is cold; which brought me to your video. I will probably change the filter, retorque the valve body bolts, and clean the pan or take it to a shop with a flush machine and have them do it. It will be pricey for sure. Anyway you wanted comments and that's my two cents. Thanks for your insights and the well done video. I will Like and Subscribe. Have a blessed day.
This is so interesting video Pete. I changed the trans fluid a year ago(it had never been changed), when I bought my car (128i E82 84k miles) because I did feel some vibration in specific RPM and gears. The dealership told me the problem is the transmission and we should start from changing fluid. They told me that the drained fluid was quite bad and there were some metal debris but after changing fluid my car turned to drivable. But what I got shocked was the dealership doesn’t exchange the filter and pan, they just drain previous oil and refill. So, I was thinking that I should exchange the filter, pan, obviously fluid again because there are still highly likely some metal debris in transmission. However, based on your opinion, do you think I should not or don’t have to re-change fluid and etc? I’ve only drive 6k miles after I exchanged. @Pete’s Garage
I understand what your saying. If i had metal debris in my fluid, i should fix the clutch packs for example if that was the problem, change the fluid & filter. It sounds great bc trannys after a lot of milege should get a nice service & it would probably go another double milege. And with lousy quality cars, the material probably is cheap or not made right & complex & buried deep...we should be happy if we're fortunate enough tohave a dipstick. If i could change it & the filter often maybe id extend a bit longer but with age & time..ppl end up buying something else without taking too much risk for more issues. Nice video.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching this morning contemplating if I need to change the filter on my 2006 4.0 v6 tacoma and my 1995 2.4 4 cyl tacoma. It seems to me all I need to do is drain and re fill a couple of times if I am going to do it myself and that is all it needs ever. Would you say that is correct?
You would have a symptom like slipping when shifting into one or more gears. Changing the filter and cleaning the magnet isn’t going to fix that. The material that’s stuck to the magnet had to have come from parts that need replaced, like clutches or bearings.
All filters regardless of type or brand have a limited life span of usable service, beyond that point, the very molecular structure of the filtration medium will breakdown, become saturated with normal amounts sediment reducing it's effectiveness over time. Im completely lost as to why the hell, would anyone drop the pan, to change the oil and not change the filter also, for the inexpensive cost and the time it takes to do, your point is totally irrelevant. Yes around 40% of the fluid does remain in the torque converter, but adding 60% new oil still introduces a nice fresh batch of additives that normally lose their strength after 80,000 kms, what ever remains in the TC will dilute into the fresh new oil, and the new filter, will clean up any suspended particles, giving your clutches, valves, solenoids, seals and torque converter extended life... If you are smart enough to rebuild a transmission, then you are certainly smart enough to know that the filtration medium, does indeed break down over time and begin to plug up or reduce its micron screening ability.
I agree with you about if you drop the pan to replace the filter while you are there. But I wouldn’t waste the time and would do a fluid exchange through the cooler lines instead. If the filtration media does indeed break down to the point of needing replacement, why would the engineers bury the filters inside the cases of the newer FWD transmissions?
@@PetesGarageandperformance Engineered to fail! We are beginning to go backwards instead of forward with the over complexity of new vehicle drive trains, they perform far better than older cars but longevity has been severely compromised. It started out with the removal of the dip stick, now it's the purposeful installation of the filter in a compromising location. Manufacturers want you to change your vehicle at least every 6 to 10 years.... I've seen so many vehicles develop shifting issues because of lose particles stuck in the valve body after a transmission flush through the oil cooler, using that cursed flushing machine. More a more repair shops refuse to use them anymore, Even my Cadillac dealer was glad when I told them not to run the machine on my CTS, and for good reason, we pulled the pan instead, installed the new filter, and topped with clean Mobile One ATF.
Pete most people don't understand most transmission filters low pressure are rock catchers they are there to keep large transmission parts from damaging the system. Keep the fluid fresh and transmission will be better than fine for many hundreds of thousands of miles.
@@davidporter7051 So that you know, I am a heavy equipment mechanic, I may not be an automotive technician, but I do maintain a fleet of heavy duty pickups, along side the industrial fleet, and I've seen first hand, automatic transmission filters, that were saturated with clutch and metal particulate, we regularly send filters and oil samples out to a third party for engine/transmission integrity analysis. Also the service manual, strongly recommends oil and filter be changed at the initial 100000km mark, and then every 80,000km there after.
Breakin time and wear depending on driving habits. Can cause it might not get clogged but over time can slow down the flow and I would think it'd put more stress on the pump as well restricted flow. CVT I have I've changed the paper filter big difference in color no longer black or dark clear. But I haven't taken the time to change the metal one but I've been looking into cleaning the metal screen filter as I heard you can. Ty for this informative video. 👍🏽
😊 Yes! Thank you! Typically, the killer to most transmissions is heat. Not debris or even fluid contamination so much. Now I will extract a gallon every 60,000 mi and maybe drop the pan and clean out every other time but heat is the killer. Transmission companies here in the south in Texas. Make a killing, especially during the summer. More food for thought.😊
I had never thought of it this way but so true, if the filter absolutely needs replacement there are bigger problems going on in that tranny. I now am not concerned about not changing the filter in a friends 2018 Impala which has the filter deep inside requiring disassembly. Not sure why GM would not install it at the pan like most transmissions.
good video and very valid points, however most people can`t just buy a pan gasket on its own. the trans filter service kits come with a filter anyway. my advise is to always do a regular trans service - when trans has done under 200,000km, to do every 50,000km, then when trans has done over 200,000km to service every 25,000km....this will give you max life and reliability from your trans...the biggest point of removing the trans pan is to clean the magnet ( and good idea to flush the switch plates ), so the fine metallic wear debris stays away from your solenoids and sensors....i`d recommend adding magnets as well ( once a magnet is covered in the fine debris it cant hold/catch more ) we often add neodymium magnets to trans pan.... and finally bypass the coolant heat exchanger/trans cooler to eliminate chance of "milkshake" or coolant entering trans. good stuff cheers
My 06 Lexus was a little laggy on the shifting. Nothing major like hard shifts, but I went to do a fluid change and it was very dirty. Still a red color to it but dirty. I did a 4 quarts fluid change n saw some improvement. Now I’ll be changing the fluid and filter, just to try n get more of that old dirty fluid n debris out.
The trend is going away from changing fluid/filter because the vehicle is only designed to get you out of the warranty period. That’s the “life” of the vehicle to the manufacturer. So if they engineer it so that 85% of all the vehicles made can double the warranty period ( let’s say warranty is 100k but 85% will get to 175-200k miles) without ever opening the transmission. 97% will make it through the warranty period with no issues. That’s all the manufacturer cares about. You get 150k miles and your transmission goes out you either drop 4-8k to have another one put in or go buy another 60k vehicle. Simple.
I have over 220,000 so I want to get a service that will be optimal for my Subaru Outback.
That filter is to the cooler. If you don't change it, you will overheat the transmission eventually. In fact I came across a garage that apparently thinks the way you do. The result was the cvt overheating and going into safe mode because they wouldn't change the filter. I started doing my own cvt fluid changes after that. After I had that filter changed, no more overheating cvt. Why does that filter need replacing? The fluid breaks down from the engine heat and hence why the fluid has to be changed. Also the transmission has wear just like the engine does. The older the fluid the more wear that occurs. That filter is there to filter out small metal particles and to keep them from clogging up the transmission cooler. The filter can only hold so much and must be replaced or else the fluid flowing through there gets restricted. There are also one or two magnets in the transmission pan that need to be cleaned of the metal particles when the fluid is changed.
BS
That's a CVT, completely different maintenance needed.
My 2020 Toyota Corolla XSE CVT doesn't even have a pan that you can remove. You can only drain the fluid.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6kWhy would the manufacturer install a transmission FILTER to begin with if it didn’t have a function? Because it does actually have a function. It FILTERS and every filter that I’ve ever dealt with, no matter the application has a finite life expectancy.
Cvt it's a POS transmission that's different
Filters wear out. Heat, pressure and time damage the filter. Change the filter
Absolutely
There is no pressure in a typical transmission filter
No pressure it’s vacuum, but it’s implied. Change the filter.
I'd change it after the first fluid change, maybe not the second
@@ChrisPatrick-q6kNow that makes sense,never listen to the dealership they could care less.
Every single metal-on-metal surface or clutch/band assembly constantly produces microscopic pieces which break down with every single revolution of the gears. Those pieces eventually clump together and form varnishes due to the heat. That varnish clogs the filter, and reduces the line-pressure of the transmission slowly over time. I still believe in the old rule-of-thumb. Change the fluid and filter once at 30,000 miles to remove the initial break-in wear, then change the fluid and filter every 60,000 miles thereafter. The amount you're spending on a filter and fluid is far cheaper than having to buy a new transmission because it was not maintained.
Perfect! Good advice
Will washing or cleaning a filter work then?
I know right! So we are listening to a guy who blew his transmission talk about why you shouldn’t change the filter ? 🤷🏼♂️🤣
Who said this was my transmission? I rebuild transmissions. It makes for a good discussion.
@@PetesGarageandperformance anyone who works on transmissions for a living should know that it is an important part of vehicle maintenance. Not as often as oil but almost every vehicle has it in there maintenance schedule. Every 30-50k miles transmission fluid change and filter change is to be done. You are making videos on something saying you don’t need to do it when every car manufacturer in the world says it is routine Maintenance and SHOULD be done at a certain mileage..
Im at nearly 475k miles on my 98 Tacoma with original automatic transmission and have never changed filter. Still running good, although the trans pan gasket has gone bad for the 4th time and needs replacing again.
The reason why you change the transmission filters is because of the clutch material and other things that are wearing out and wearing in in the transmission
Change those transmission filters between 60k to 90k depending on how hard you drive, weight you haul or trailer towing. Clean the trans oil pan. I have seen trans filters plug up & damage transmission. Transmissions are very, very expensive to replace & usually not as good as the original. The transmission is the most expensive part of your vehicle & will leave you stranded needing a tow, costing you over $5000, so if you want to be sure it last forever, install a transmission cooler & change the filter. Heat is what destroys 90+% of transmissions. Dirty filter will starve fluid pressure causing clutches to slip & destroy the transmission.
I agree.
Beep, beep.
How often should you replace the transmission cooler
@@Pwn3540 I said "install a transmission cooler", not replace often. Most vehicles, especially ones loaded or pulling trailer or driven in hot weather, need an extra transmission cooler. Ask any good transmission rebuilder and they will tell you that heat is what destroys 90+% of transmissions. Modern full synthetic trans fluids don't wear out, they just get contaminated with clutch material that will clog your filter & destroy your transmission.
@@michaelhaiducek2648how do you install a transmission cooler tho if there aren’t company’s that make a kit for your car? Also would it not block a good chunk of your radiator?
I'm just in the process of trying to decide what transmission maintenance service I need to maintain a Subaru Outback with over 220,000 kilometres on it. I might replace the filter anyways as there seems to be conflicting information here although I do think Pete's Garage has a valid point. The Subaru Maintenance Manual for Schedule D says "replace transmission fluid". I don't know if that means a change or a flush, but I'm thinking that a flush is better.
I came across due to inquisition regarding the necessity to change AT filter.
2009 focus has no drain bolt so ATF goes everywhere when pan is dropped. This is the sole reason I am wanting to avoid changing the filter, otherwise I would not care whatsoever.
I will tap into the return line and drain as I fill 1 gallon at a time.
I also wondered what would contaminate the filter requiring a replacement.
Great video. Thank you!
Since you have no mechanical knowledge about how a transmission works I would suggest reading some books
And no ,it's not a great video unless you are him, he just wants your transmission to burn up so you pay him to replace it
The filters get clogged from clutch material and the fibers break down over time unless the filter is a metal mesh. . It felt the same with fluid change only. After the filter change, transmission felt smoother.
Well as someone that has his truck in the shop at the moment because of a plugged-up filter, and though I do agree with you that if your filter is plugged up that there is a worse problem changing it once a year may help delay the inevitable.
I think it’s a good idea to change a transmission filter because of the metal from the break in period.
Is not good
Facts....because it builds up
The first time you change it yes
Wouldn't the magnet capture the break in metal?
@@chetcreates Not all of it. The very fine metal that gets by the filter ends up on the magnet. The bigger pieces on the filter screen.
I totally agree with you. Most transmission filter will only filter to maybe 100-200 microns size particles. Most clutch wear particles are smaller than that & go right through the filter. I dissected a transmission filter on our '07 BMW X3 with the French made GM transmission, running Dexron VI fluid, and had 132k miles on it. The filter almost looked new. I had to check the date code molded on it to see that it was the original filter. Also, the magnets pick up most of the steel particles, the clutch particles will eventually settle out & adhere to the pan vis surface tension. That's why you have to wipe them clean. So, IMO, a "drain & fill" will do the trick. I do it about every 10-15k miles which replaces about 40% of the fluid. Thanks for you video.
Same here i had my 4l60e rebuilt and beefed up. I put her into another astro van at 10,000 miles.added deep Pan.replaced deep type filter from shallow one.i feel same highway Miles replaced fuild about 3 times in 70,000 miles.no issues. Started shifting little harder so i just took off pan. Cleaned. And replaced ac delco filter. Shift s nice corvette servo. Shift kit also.i will cut open filter to inspect. 3 and 4 shift flawlessly. When new bam into 4th.2 nd feels like normal. Little firmness. So i agree im curious to inspect.thanks for view.
I Used a KM 95 Mask and its Still Running Today
Ok Horses you absolutely right and right, and ChrisFix is also absolutely right because I saw ChrisFix on his video was breaking apart the previous transmission filter and show us when transmission fluid you suppose also to the transmission filter, and us a lot of metals inside of the previous transmission filter, thanks to you Horses and thankfully to ChrisFix, and yes transmission filter supposes to change
I do agree you probably don't have to change it near as often as other filters, I'd think after two fluid changes you should definitely replace it. They say fluid lasts 60k miles yet I don't think I've gone over 10k on a fluid flush and it's already discolored to the point I need to change it again. ATF may not be subject to fuels and the like but it still gets hot specially in the summer and breaks down and the more it breaks down, the ability to dissipate heat and lubricate lessens and thus more wear on the parts.
Thank you for your comments. I just bought a 2019 Frontier with 43,000 miles and was curious about changing the trans fluid.
I think, you made me think I need more research on what I might need for my transmission.
Knowing before you spend crazy money, is priceless!
Thank you, appreciate you sharing!
i never replace transmission filter, only fluid and my doge carnivan over 200k, i totally love this video
If you can get over 200k on a Dodge transmission without problems, you must be doing something right! Lol.
Change it next time because if it gets too much metal shavings in it can clog up and your transmission won’t work right
And putting the pan on and off is WAY harder then putting on the filter
If you have metal shavings, you have big problems.
@@PetesGarageandperformance bro I love your video I hope you can get back to me and respond. I have 1990 corvette with the 700r4 and the first gear and second gear works but when it want to shift to 3rd it slips and stays in second gear. All my coworkers tell me put a new filter and change the fluid ,put a new filter and change the fluid,if I do that is it really gonna change anything?
Totally a great and valid point I've been working on car since I was 5 years old am now 44 years old and I will tell you this much transmission filters hardly ever need to be changed unless like you said it is a catastrophic failure they also have to remember that transmission fluid also has a detergent in it which allows it to stay clean so no you do not need to change your transmission filter you may need to change the fluid at some point three to five years maybe but you don't have to change the filter unless something totally goes wrong like metal shavings or something thank you for the good point
Exactly! There shouldn’t be anything in the filter unless the transmission needs a rebuild.
I think you have a god point, but my question is wy is it a filter ther if we dont get dirty? do we need it?
There will always be a normal amount of clutch material wear. The filter makes sure that this doesn’t get into the pump, valve body, cooler, etc. There is enough surface area in the filter media to accommodate this “normal” amount of clutch material. If there is more material/debris than the “normal” amount, you would have shifting problems. Then it would need to be rebuilt anyway.
Would you change one that’s been sitting for 16 years without having any fluid circulated through it?
Just bout a project truck and yes it’s a 5 speed manual and wondering if I should due to it sitting for so long
Manual transmissions don’t usually have a filter. Just drive it.
Agreed. Just replaced trans fluid in my 2005 camry. Drop the pan, pull of screen, ( it's not a filter ), clean pan, filter with alcohol.
The filter can get dirt from the dip stick tubing, or a leaky hose, seal, or gasket. Plus the clutch material and possibly metal.
Depends on the vehicle. Some cars are easy and cheap. Like my Infiniti G35, the filter is right underneath the drain pan and cost about $10. So if you have high miles and your removing the drain pan, might as well change it while your at it. Others might not be necessary unless your rebuilding due to the filters location.
If you're already need to remove the transmission pan like to replace a damaged pan or leaking gasket, otherwise you just created a bunch of additional labor for yourself as now you need to replace a gasket and remove and retorque a couple dozen additional bolts that you otherwise didn't need to touch.
Changing the transmission filter can cost over $300 in labor, parts, and new ATF. If you change the filter and fluid yourself, it's a more cost effective measure. Changing the Transmission Filter is cost effective insurance compared to paying a mechanic to rebuild or replace a spent transmission. On my 2006 Siena and my daughter's 2002 Camry, I have to unscrew the left engine/transmission mount and rock the engine upward, with a bottle jack, to access the transmission drain pan screws to get to the transmission filter. It's not a quickie job for a mechanic so, to avoid paying for the labor involved, I do it myself.
They asking me 350$ to change transmission filter and flush transmission fluid...
In toyota camry le 2016...
Thank you man you just saved some money for me... God bless you
It makes sense to change it you are planning on keeping the car. There will always be wear in moving parts. A transmission change in the future is way more expensive than a simple filter and fluid swap that costs less than $150 in parts every 3-5 years.
Never flush it. It moves the gunk around to places it shouldn’t be. Yes you should replace the transmission FLUID. I suppose this guy is just saying the transmission FILTER doesn’t need to be changed.
@@robertlovesgothgirlz I just paid $600 for that. I called another place and they charge the same. 2017 Nissan Rogue. CVT tranny.
Very sound logic and nicely explained. I'm a big fan of a common sense approach to anything.
I appreciate your advice. Makes complete sense. You have relieved my worry about my 4L30e transmission with over 165K. I never replaced the transmission filter and I am never intending to have the filter replaced. My only routine maintenance is to periodically partially drain and fill with new ATF.
* I am worried about clutches wearing out and I suppose a new filter is not gonna gonna effect the future wear.
If it shifts ok now. There probably isn’t anything to worry about. If the clutches wear out, it was probably just time. No filter change is going to affect the wear on the clutches.
@@PetesGarageandperformancebut filter change will prevent filter from clogging up....right???? A clog tranny filter is no good either....
@prandomable clogging up with what? If it clogs with metal or clutch material, the transmission needs rebuilt anyway.
@@PetesGarageandperformance I'm no transmission expert. But wouldn't the tranny fluid filter clean the dirty old tranny fluid like how an engine oil filter cleans the contaminate of the engine oil???
I guess it is a fallacy and misconception....that is not how tranny fluid filter works right?
Pete, I completely agree with your logic. In my case, changing the filter in my C4's automatic is what actually killed it. My fault 100%. I didn't remove the old O ring before installing the new filter. I think I damaged it while trying to dig it out. That allowed air to be sucked into the trans fluid. After doing a 1/4 mile run, the trans started slipping real bad. The first thing I did was pull the dip stick. The trans fluid was loaded with little air bubbles. After letting it sit for an hour, the trans started working normally again. But, the damage was done. Under certain high throttle operations, the trans would slip and not upshift. In hindsight, I should have never messed with the original filter. Now, in my 96 Impala SS and my 2003 C5 Vette, I leave the trans filters alone. The trans in my Impala made it to 270,000 miles before I had it replaced.
It wasnt changing the filter that caused your problems with your trans. You made a mistake not the filter .... mechanics error.
thanks for sharing. The dealer tech put the rebuild flush amount of oil back into the transmission after a pan drop. I had several EXTRA quarts and also had tons of air bubbles and burnt smell. I did a trans flush after that and they confirmed what I had seen at the dip stick - several extra quarts of oil from the Dealer pan drop, filter change! My transmission failed soon after the flush but it was definitely caused by the dealer tech error. Since the transmission had the rated 275K miles on it and I was just trying to extend the life of the transmission I didn't pursue the dealer error. But your story confirms that as you say, "the damage was already done." I got a rebuilt transmission - for a few thousand dollars. They put in new cooler lines also though at my request. I'm now 10K miles later and so figuring out if I should change out the filter myself...or do a flush before the fluid gets burnt without changing the filter at first...hmm.
My Impala would not go (No Transmission engagement) until it warmed up. I changed the transmission filter and never had that problem again.
96 Camaro here. I was having a lot of issues when I would shift into R the car wouldn’t wanna go and the RPMs would go up but the car wouldn’t go anywhere fast.. lot of delay. Well, I changed out the filter, gasket, and fluid for the first time ever in my car 221,000 miles… the car shifts great now.. probably should have done it a long time ago. I think I’m just lucky. Probably wouldn’t go crazy with it but wouldn’t go past every 60k miles without doing it.
Don't skimp on your second biggest investment. Just skip the fast food cheese burger one or two days one week and replace the filter.
The biggest issue with changing trans filter is accessibility. Some transmissions must be removed and split open to even get to the filter. Not worth it in my opinion.
@@a3300000 which transmissions are those? I've never seen a transmission that you have to remove in order to get to the filter
@@edocsil1635 , Chevy Equinox for one.
@@a3300000 Poorly designed vehicle
@@edocsil1635 most newer FWD GM and Ford transmissions have “lifetime” filters that are deep inside the transmission and are only replaced when rebuilding the transmission.
The transmission is still metal on metal contact, it doesnt have to be a catastrophic amount of metal that comes off. You still have to change the filter, since you only need to change your transmission fluid every ~ 60k miles, its not that big of an issue to spend $70 on a new filter. If there was a catastrophic failure, the filter is as reduntant as the bolts holding the fluid pan. youll need 2k for a new trans, however if you dont change your filter and those metal pieces make their way back into the transmission, that could potentially be the CAUSE of the catastrophic failure. Again, you dont change your transmission fluid that often as engine oil because theres no need, so it shouldnt be a point of saving money since the spacing between when you do it is fairly large
I agree that if you are into the transmission that you should change the filter. But you don’t need to drop the pan on most transmissions to change the fluid. They either have a drain or you can use a fluid exchange machine using the cooler lines (my prefers method). When I worked at the dealership we had two options: just a fluid flush with the machine, or drop the pan to change the filter and then do a machine flush. It usually would cost an extra $80-$100 to do the pan drop and filter.
They don’t put a filter on manual transmissions or differentials. All they use is a magnet to catch debris. A filter is used on automatics because they have to keep the pump, valve body, cooler, and piston seals clear of metal debris. However, if there is more than the “normal” amount of debris that the filter is designed to handle, the transmission needs an overhaul that changing just the filter won’t fix.
Hey you seem pretty knowledgeable and I have a question my transmission seems to be going out the other day was making a whining noise on the freeway halfway home it got stuck in third gear now when I started up it drives for about 1 minute and then it stops driving all I get is the engine revving won't go into reverse unless I just started the car should I change the filter or just get the transmission replaced??
The only reason the filter is replaced is that you had to lower the pan to get the fluid out and so if the pan is already off why not just replace the filter anyhow. If, however, you have a drain on the pan and the transmission is working correctly, just change the fluid. If you are really worried about the fluid quality, then replace the fluid in the pan via the drain more often. I installed a drain in my pan by using a roofing sheet-metal screw. It takes a little while to drain the fluid through the rather small hole but it seals as it should. The screw cost about a nickle.
That's a great trick. Luckily, my 2006 Matrix has a drain plug. Just drain and fill every 30k. Car has 200k and shifts perfect.
No dont act like you know it all. Explain honda transmissions.... They have an internal filter because people believe that this filter will never clog. Wrong. Many customers drive their cars for 15 and then go into limp mode. Why??? Because the filter gets clogged. Clutch material builds. And makes a difference. They only have a drain plug. Get out of here with this nonsense. Change it. Why risk it. Except with honda because you have to take apart the whole transmission.
@@jmquickfix I won't say they will never clog. Honda transmissions do have an external filter as an internal. The internal filter you have to pull the transmission. The external is usually in front of the radiator.
Also this video is just garbage.
In all honesty I have never taken out my transmission filter and see any form of build up on it. It's always very clean and the mesh is always free of debris . This guy has a point
I took my car to get the trans fluid changed on a CVT- drives great, and was told I needed a new transmission.
They need a new mechanic.
You are absolutely right. I drive a 2017 Chevy cruze, and to change trans filters, you have to take the whole thing apart
I was really having thoughts about this for weeks!.. Must I chage or not.. After watching your video, surely I have decided to NOT change the transmission filter. Thank you for this video, it really helped me.. Greetings from Cyprus.
I also believe that to drain and fill is safer for high mileage vehicles and the trick to that is do a drain and fill and a month later do another drain and fill and your fluid will be 90 percent new
I have a GM 6 speed auto transmission that's a sealed unit with no dipstick. I replaced my filter as it was the first transmission service. Fluid looked dark. The old filter was average inside considering the fluid was about 6 years old. The pan gasket was in good condition as well. I believe if you plan on doing regular fluid drain and refills (every 30,000 miles), you can keep the old filter and gasket. Just replace the filter and gasket if its the first initial transmission service (100,000 miles or 6 years)
The factory gasket on the 6L series transmissions is reusable and a new one is kind of expensive. Those aftermarket rubberized cork replacement gaskets are junk compared to the factory gasket.
I have never changed the transmission filter on my Mercedes 2000 model c class .I only add trasmission fluid and it is working fine .Thank you for your logic 👍🏻
Thanks bro!! Makes perfect sense now that you've explained it.👍
You can get it out of the torque converter you just keep filling running and dropping it takes about 15qts to completely get everything out of the converter maybe even alittle more they used to have drain plugs on some torque converters not anymore though. I still change my trans filters every 60 thousand but I see your point. I just rebuilt a 4l60e too, the new stuff is taking all the fun out on working on automotive.
Hey Pete I do agree with what your saying about filter in transmission. Ive got the 3.6 and the auto has no drive. After dropping the pan I can clearly see its never been opened. The filter itself was holding the finest and the kitty litter sized pieces and smaller filings collected on the magnet. In seeing that i could confidently say shes seen better days and a refit is called for. Plus a new filter.
I agree. For example Honda v6 Pilot circa 2007 had a transmission filter that was not serviceable. It was internal between engine and transmission.
yes, if your transmission filter gets clogged and needs changing, you need a new transmission.
Needing a new tranny and engine is never a good thing bro but it happens
Good video. for those of us that are Nissan fans. on a CVT that part that was in his hand is not a filter ,its just a pick up screen. There is a second filter that is a canister filter mounted on the outside of the transmission of inside the case near the valve body.
I agree that a dirty filter equates to a damaged transmission. However, consider this situation: The transmission appears to have no issues, except for a soft humming noise when you let go off the throttle. To find out there are a lot of shavings in the drain plug. Probably a torque converter running a little dry. If one replaces the filter and recycle ALL oil, one should get 20K more out of that transmission...
If the filter doesn't catch all the contaminants and the contaminants get into the valves the valves can get blocked causing damage to clutch plates. Clutch plates usually get damaged by putting extreme usage on the transmission such as spinning tires, hauling trailers, or blocked valves which cause overheating of the fluid. Filters do get clogged with clutch contaminants and metal as the magnet in the pan gets to the point where it can't pick up any more metal after being coated with wear and tear metal bits over time. When the filter gets gets clogged with clutch contaminants and the valves stop working and vehicle won't shift between 1rst and 2nd or 2nd to 3rd, most people think the transmission is completely gone but it can have another 50,000 miles on it and just need a valve replacement and new fluid replacement.
Pete, thanks for this; traditionally I've just replaced filters like you said - now I'm rethinking it! What I wish manufacturers would do is incorporate an external filter we could change that filtered better than the internal filter. It would give an opportunity to inspect the transmission fluid. Ideally, a cartridge type filter.
Yep, same, I just hate taking that stupid pan off, its not bad on some vehicles but some others its just annoying
Had a Subaru and it had an external spin on type trans filter.what a great idea
Hates doing basic transmission maintenance. Later calls the trans a POS when it fails early.
Change fluid and filter where applicable when mileage due. Pan drop only - NO flushing.
This guys video is for clicks only. Do not follow his advice.
That's what I'm thinking too, agree with you
@@Joedoriamusic some automatic tranaxles
Have an internal filter you can’t get to unless you disassembled the case ,but I always change the filter if it’s under the pan
I had a 1990 Ford escort. I pulled the pan off at 125k. Had drained the fluid and replaced at about 75k. I had noticed that the transmission was starting to slip. Grant it I was not hot rodding it but I noticed it. I took pan off and replaced the transmission filter. I cut up filter. The fine screen inside was completely covered with tiny pieces about 1/8 deep. Was blocking flow. After replacement went away. Easiest car was 1996 Saturn,. External transmission filter. Same size as oil filter. Cost about the same. I changed every 20000 miles. Never had issue. Had that car up till 225k. Finally sold because AC went out.
On old but well functioning transmissions the pan usually has a coating of viscous dark material and so does the filter. It seems probable that this is from the clutch and band coatings due to normal wear. Is it possible that new fluid with additives at full strength can resuspend some of the finer particles and circulate them? Then cleaning the pan and a metal screen type filter in solvent seems likely to remove most of it and lessen the wear, since these are the lowest points.
Many replies were general common sense reasons to change the filter, but you made a really great logical point that I've never heard anyone say. Maybe some rare person doing a drain and fill every 20k could probably get away with not touching the filter for a long time. But after 60k+ miles of unchanged trans fluid there will be some sediment... and after 100k there would be a lot. It makes total sense that new fluid with cleaning additives would resuspend that sludge back into the transmission doing a drain & fill if the pan wasn't dropped and cleaned at the very least. But at that point why would anyone not change the filter which is easier than removing the pan? The only reason they've invented lifetime trans fluid that never needs changing is for environmental tax breaks, and tariff reduction on imports; it's true. But that really makes sense what you said, and the reason I'm adding a trans filter to my fluid order for my upcoming drain & fill. Thanks!
I’ve had a couple transmissions lose pressure due to clogged filters. Worked fine after filter replacement. It’s not a waste of money of insure pressure is maximized.
What was the filter clogged with?
@@PetesGarageandperformance Clutch material sludge.
Thanks for your input. I've got a 2000 Camry that runs great except for being very slow at taking off. Thinking this could be the problem. Of course, this was never a fast car. But it has been a wonderful low maintenance car. 320K.
The reason why the filter needs to be replaced is because all the parts will very slowly wear over time creating very small particles of metal and the filter catches all those particles over time, catastrophic failure is different and does not parts are not being worn out even with good oil in them.
Have you ever opened up a transmission filter with over 100,000 miles on it and inspected the filter media? I have several times and there was virtually nothing on the filter media itself. The filter can catch any larger metal particles from when the car was new and the transmission was going through the break-in process but the very small metal particles will go right through the trans filter (it's not like a motor oil filter). Many trans filters are nothing more than a metal mesh/screen. Worn clutch particulates also do not get caught by the filter but instead get suspended in the trans fluid itself which is why it's a good idea to change the trans fluid regularly and in most cases and shorter intervals than the manufacturer suggests. In many newer cars, the trans filter is no longer even accessible but instead built in to the trans internally and on accessible by completely disassembling the transmission because the filter is only meant to be changed once the trans itself needs rebuilding.
I have 300k on my Kia Sportage, filter has never been changed, never had any problems, runs great! At least for now :)
Thanks Pete. Your perspective certainly matches what other professionals have told me, based on their experience. The transmission ‘filter’ should be called a transmission SCREEN, and then people might realize that it’s there to catch the big chunks. It’s better to to completely flush the fluid then to only replace portions of it at small intervals. Now, blow their mins and remind them that Honda doesn’t even use transmission ‘filters’…
My 2016 Honda civic has 2 transmission filters. Look it up on RUclips vidd
@@thisisrob8750 Glad Honda saw the wisdom of adding filters. I should have qualified it to say 80's & 90's Hodas did't have transmission filters.
I have told several people exactly what you are saying on this video 👍, well said ...
The filter filters the shavings. If there a certain amount of shavings in the filter, it will hinder the flow of the fluid. So if you're changing the fluid, why NOT change the filter as well. It makes absolutely no sense to have clean fluid flowing through a filter saturated with blackened fluid.
As someone who had run many Jeep Cherokees with the venerable AW4 trans it is pretty common for guys to just drain & fill the trans at regular intervals & still get 300k or more out of them. Even if we are not towing, climbing, or rock crawling the short trips, stop & go, idling in traffic is hard on the trans so we should service per the severe use recommendation. If you're not spending hours pulling, removing gasket or RTV without scraping the mating surface the time saved & lack of dread will more then make up for using better fluids & even changing more frequently.
I've never cut one open, but on the AW4 the filter is a coarse screen & functions primarily as a pickup. Also I don't see it being critical that the magnet is cleaned when the fluid as changed as its general a strong magnet & will hold plenty of clutch material.
Thanks for taking the time to tell me what I wanted to hear!
Interesting! My 2008 HHR user manual footnote 'h' says "Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions: (1) in heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90F (32C) or higher. (2) in hilly or mountainous terrain (3) when doing frequent trailer towing (4) uses such as found in taxi, police, or deliver service. It also qualifies this maintenance task as a 50k, 100k, and 150k "severe service only" task.
I agree with your reasoning. Totally makes sense. Two other things I assume add to your arguments are that the filter is probably designed to have enough surface area to handle normal amounts of wear materials and if there is a magnet in the tranny, it will catch most metal normal amounts of magnetic metal particles.
It doesn't cost that much you might as well change your filter this way you don't have to worry about it
You are correct for simple metal mesh filters, but some have a multi layers filter like post 2011 Mercedes 7 and 9gtronic.
There is a paper like layer to catch thinner dust and I think for this type of filter it is better to change the fluid and the filter
I can see the advantage of dropping the pan to clean it and the magnets. Since you're in there why not change the filter. They're only $20-$35.
Wrong my car was slipping so bag and I changed filter it fixed it
Good discussion point: I'd change first filter (wear-in) and then later in the 100k+ mileage if the fluid is showing unusual browning or burnt signs
I think you should change it one time during braking and then not touch it again since the break-in would cause the most fragment material
I've changed a few AT filters, they all look completely unclogged. Unlike oil filters, they're usually a metal screen of fairly porous size, the fine particles goes right thru the screen anyway.
Exactly!
Somehow transmission fluid are known to turn black and dirty. If you don't change the fluid soon enough the filters will be very dirty and prevent fluid to past through the transmission.
Amen
Only way to know if filter is getting dirty is from pressure drop test from before and after a filter. And yes a filter can have dirt or metal inside and still be doing it’s job. The filter shown in video is just a sump pump screen and not a true filter. Sometimes behind a attached cooler is an actual small filter that definitely should be changed because of physical small size. Any filter change can help with slightly better flow or pressures helping last longer life for the cheap price of filters!
since its a closed system, routinely change the trans fluid every once a year (approx 20k km, whichever came sooner) will keep the trans in good shape. so just like you said, if the trans filter is clogged, then it surely means the owner rarely change the fluid -> problems in the trans..
I agree. My 20 year old xl-7 is on the same filter. There is no instructions on manual when to change transmission filter. I didn't even know it uses a filter till like a year ago😂
Allison transmission doesn’t recommend changing until an overhaul. Not regular service
Which you'll never do because your engine will fail long before that.
You make good sense and a compelling case. You right. Thanks for making me think about this.
Pete's garage , did you know, you help a lot of car owner save money, please save us some more money in future, have a lovely day.
I will do my best
I agreed with you. Changing ATF filter is a waste of money n yet there are many mechanics who always change ATF filter with every change of ATF fluid.
Penny wise and pound foolish my friend!
Should have open up the transmission filter to see.
Good point👍
I read the comments, a lot of the folks say change the filters. I agree. Did the oil changes and not the filters on new trucks, and the transmissions fail...consistently. My mechanic says, the fluid pump exchange works good, well it hasn’t worked.
I completely agree
i agree, the key is to run your temp lower by adding a trans cooler and changing your fluid every 25k, I just pump out and add new fluid, takes 20 min cost $20. 320k miles on my trans and it runs smooth as ever
It depends on the vehicle, how many miles it has, and how long you plan on keeping it, because if it's an older vehicle you plan to keep for awhile, then yes, a filter and fluid change will come into the picture at some point, simply because if you change the fluid and not the filter, the old filter will dirty up the new fluid faster.
new fluid is not going to dirty a filter. only in a dusty environment.
If you're able to change the filter on a transmission, do it. That transmission fluid can get hot sometimes depending on how much you're towing and the type of cooler you're running, also type of environment you're in. Coming from a person like me who's been through three transmissions and never considered regular maintenance on them or even taking a peek at a certain mileage later after the rebuild. You may not have to change it as often as your oil and air filters but it is definitely something to consider just like your differential other fluids. After watching a video, by precision transmission shop they shown them changing out the filter and fluid 3,000 mi later on a 4l80 transmission that they built. Didn't look like much at first but as soon as you could see the filter up close you could see all the black soot from the wear and tear from that first initial break-in. But after that you can go probably 50 to 100K depending on your driving.
Pete's right. This is not an oil filter that filters down to at least 20 microns. Unless you're installing a Magefine filter or something similar to the transmission hose line, the fluid is literally passing through mesh or sponge, both of which are designed to catch shavings and the like.
I'd say you're right in general ,though I'd stretch the oem cycle from 1:3 so potential shavings would not factor performance if given. You have far than a stilled mind your stated claim is proof along your altruism.
Depends on the transmission and the filter. Once I saw the filter in my wife's QX4 (aka Pathfinder) was just a "rock catcher" screen, I knew it wasn't worth replacing. Other transmissions have real filters. Do you think that the material in a real filter is not going to fail in 20 years/200k miles (which is less than the last two cars we had, bought new)?
I think your Opinion on the Transmission Filter, is Superb! You Save me Time and a Schloggpile of unnecessary work! D
I agree with your hypothesis. I've never changed sealed unit ATF or filter on a car, unless there was a problem with the transmission.... in which case it always needed more than a fluid and filter change anyway!
Hi Pete, as an engineer I agree with you. It's just another way dealers make extra money from so called service, but most of the time they cant do a service correctly.
Great video. What do you think about yearly drain and fill cycles? I know is not ideal, but you are renewing 30% every single year ... and is easy. Thanks! Editing for adding: To your point, I couldn't agree more. If filter would really need to be changed, they would have invented a more easy to access design. Regards, Nacho.
Well, unless the goal is to sell you a new vehicle when the trans craps out after the warranty runs out.
They don't make it easy so that you have to take it to the dealer!!
Periodic drain and fills.
Swear by it and have had cars and trucks both run 400k without a hitch.
Even if pan removal is a pita I’ve pumped out and pumped back in exact amounts.
Wala fresh fluid !
*_Going to be changing out my 91 Toyota Pickup transmission filter. Still has the original one and my dad already bought the new filter. Might as well since im going to be serviging the transmission with new fluid 😂_*
I changed the transmission filters and oil in every vehicle I owned except for 1.
It was a Ford F-150.
Transmission failed at 81,000 miles on the F-150.
Other vehicles included
Dodge Durango
Ford Explorer
3 each Dodge Ram 1500's
Dodge Charger R/T
I only changed the oil and filters in the 3 Dodge Ram 1500's
The other vehicles were done at the dealership.
Could be just coincidence but the only vehicle that I had transmission problems with is
the one I never changed the oil or filters in the transmission.
Note: My son had a dodge Ram 1500 and never changed the filters nor the oil in his
transmission and his transmission went out as well.
Not sure how many miles he had on it though.
His truck was 2 years younger than one of my Dodge 1500 truck.
I know have a Dodge Ram 2500 with the 6.4 liter HEMI
It is at 60,000 miles and many may think this is too soon to change the oil and filter
I don't. It's an easy job and only cost $100 for the fluid and filters.
I tow a camper with my new truck and don't want to have trouble on a long camping trip
and that is why I am changing the oil and filters.
I know many will disagree but this is how I roll !
What failed in the f-150 transmission? I doubt it was a clogged filter. You also got lucky on those Dodges! Lol
@@PetesGarageandperformance I doubt it as well
I think just a coincidence. The transmission place rebuilt it then
it left me on the side the road twice. He accused me of hot rodding
the truck and said that it would be the last time he would work on it.
I got a lawyer and they really looked at it better and they had something
in the transmission installed backwards. A ring perhaps. It was a long time ago.
But that is when I swapped from Ford to Dodge and have never had any
trouble with a vehicle again. I have a Ram 2500 and the wife drives a Durango.
Zero problems thus far.It may not make a difference to change the filters but it does give
me peace of mind and I like doing it as well. I take pride in keeping my vehicles in mint condition
and I keep them for an average of 10 years as well. Although I envy the fact you know how to
rebuild these complicated transmissions now a day. You got another sub.
Gillis Danos lol the trans shop tried to blame you! That’s the thing with these transmissions, one little screw up and it won’t last long. Thanks for the sub.
@@PetesGarageandperformance Your welcome. Now if a shop would say that I hot rod my 2500 they would be right.
6.4 HEMI with 4:10 rear end is fun, fun, fun !
I bought my 2000 Silverado with the 4.3L and 4L60E transmission back in 2006 that had around 60k miles at the time. It's been my daily driver and currently has just under 240k miles and never even changed the trans fluid once. I'm kinda ashamed to even say that, but I've always put it off. I'm not sure if the previous owner had ever changed it! It still drives and shifts without any problems!
I'm getting ready to finally change the trans filter and fluid today, and am curious to see what it looks like in the bottom of the pan. I may have to update this and let you know how it looks when I get done. I changed the rear diff fluid once and that was within the past year! (Go figure) lol
Yes, I do change the oil and oil filter regularly!
The only mechanical parts that I've had to replace (knock on wood).
-Steering Rack & Pinion (180k miles)
-Power Steering Pump (225k miles)
-Distributor (230k miles)
Goes to show how reliable GM is!
I change the filter the first time I do it and replace the pan (If available) with an aluminum finned deep pan with a drain plug. I just do fluid drops every third oil change. Dorman makes replacement pans that are actually very good with drain plugs. If you own a Honda the filter can't be changed without major disassembly.
I WISH THAT SOMEONE LIKE YOU LIVED AROUND THIS AREA , SOMEONE THAT CAN BE TRUSTED WITH TELLING THE TRUTH ABOUT WHAT IS WRONG AND NOT MAKE THEM PAY MORE THAN THEY SHOULD PAY, YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
Some transmissions are not "Sealed." Almost all the transmissions I've encountered (Ford, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, Hyundai) all had vent holes on top of the transmission case to allow the "crankcase" to breathe. That's what a friend of mine told me who happened to be a transmission mechanic. I pretty sure that those transmissions will breathe in some dust driving down the road. My Hyundai Excel took water through that vent in a Houston flood that submerged that part of my transmission. To fix the issue my buddy flushed my transmission for a case of Bud. He used about 25 qts of fluid to do the flush. That is when I learned the only way to get a relatively complete fluid change is with a flush machine. I bought an "03" Suburban which does not go into reverse immediately when it is cold; which brought me to your video. I will probably change the filter, retorque the valve body bolts, and clean the pan or take it to a shop with a flush machine and have them do it. It will be pricey for sure. Anyway you wanted comments and that's my two cents. Thanks for your insights and the well done video. I will Like and Subscribe. Have a blessed day.
This is so interesting video Pete. I changed the trans fluid a year ago(it had never been changed), when I bought my car (128i E82 84k miles) because I did feel some vibration in specific RPM and gears. The dealership told me the problem is the transmission and we should start from changing fluid. They told me that the drained fluid was quite bad and there were some metal debris but after changing fluid my car turned to drivable. But what I got shocked was the dealership doesn’t exchange the filter and pan, they just drain previous oil and refill. So, I was thinking that I should exchange the filter, pan, obviously fluid again because there are still highly likely some metal debris in transmission. However, based on your opinion, do you think I should not or don’t have to re-change fluid and etc? I’ve only drive 6k miles after I exchanged. @Pete’s Garage
How has your car been driving ever since??
Ff
I understand what your saying. If i had metal debris in my fluid, i should fix the clutch packs for example if that was the problem, change the fluid & filter. It sounds great bc trannys after a lot of milege should get a nice service & it would probably go another double milege. And with lousy quality cars, the material probably is cheap or not made right & complex & buried deep...we should be happy if we're fortunate enough tohave a dipstick.
If i could change it & the filter often maybe id extend a bit longer but with age & time..ppl end up buying something else without taking too much risk for more issues.
Nice video.
Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching this morning contemplating if I need to change the filter on my 2006 4.0 v6 tacoma and my 1995 2.4 4 cyl tacoma. It seems to me all I need to do is drain and re fill a couple of times if I am going to do it myself and that is all it needs ever. Would you say that is correct?
Yep. Easy peasy.
Pete's Garage When do you recommend cleaning the magnets inside or do I not need to worry about that if I drain and re fill often?
Personally, I wouldn’t worry about the magnet. If it has excessive material on it then you have bigger problems.
@@PetesGarageandperformance
How do you know there excessive material on the magnet if the pan is not open?
You would have a symptom like slipping when shifting into one or more gears. Changing the filter and cleaning the magnet isn’t going to fix that. The material that’s stuck to the magnet had to have come from parts that need replaced, like clutches or bearings.
You're a natural RUclipsr...... great input.
Thank you for the kind words.
All filters regardless of type or brand have a limited life span of usable service, beyond that point, the very molecular structure of the filtration medium will breakdown, become saturated with normal amounts sediment reducing it's effectiveness over time. Im completely lost as to why the hell, would anyone drop the pan, to change the oil and not change the filter also, for the inexpensive cost and the time it takes to do, your point is totally irrelevant. Yes around 40% of the fluid does remain in the torque converter, but adding 60% new oil still introduces a nice fresh batch of additives that normally lose their strength after 80,000 kms, what ever remains in the TC will dilute into the fresh new oil, and the new filter, will clean up any suspended particles, giving your clutches, valves, solenoids, seals and torque converter extended life... If you are smart enough to rebuild a transmission, then you are certainly smart enough to know that the filtration medium, does indeed break down over time and begin to plug up or reduce its micron screening ability.
I agree with you about if you drop the pan to replace the filter while you are there. But I wouldn’t waste the time and would do a fluid exchange through the cooler lines instead. If the filtration media does indeed break down to the point of needing replacement, why would the engineers bury the filters inside the cases of the newer FWD transmissions?
@@PetesGarageandperformance Engineered to fail! We are beginning to go backwards instead of forward with the over complexity of new vehicle drive trains, they perform far better than older cars but longevity has been severely compromised. It started out with the removal of the dip stick, now it's the purposeful installation of the filter in a compromising location. Manufacturers want you to change your vehicle at least every 6 to 10 years....
I've seen so many vehicles develop shifting issues because of lose particles stuck in the valve body after a transmission flush through the oil cooler, using that cursed flushing machine. More a more repair shops refuse to use them anymore, Even my Cadillac dealer was glad when I told them not to run the machine on my CTS, and for good reason, we pulled the pan instead, installed the new filter, and topped with clean Mobile One ATF.
Pete most people don't understand most transmission filters low pressure are rock catchers they are there to keep large transmission parts from damaging the system. Keep the fluid fresh and transmission will be better than fine for many hundreds of thousands of miles.
@@davidporter7051 So that you know, I am a heavy equipment mechanic, I may not be an automotive technician, but I do maintain a fleet of heavy duty pickups, along side the industrial fleet, and I've seen first hand, automatic transmission filters, that were saturated with clutch and metal particulate, we regularly send filters and oil samples out to a third party for engine/transmission integrity analysis. Also the service manual, strongly recommends oil and filter be changed at the initial 100000km mark, and then every 80,000km there after.
@@brentneves3602 you don't even understand what you are posting. Try again.
Breakin time and wear depending on driving habits. Can cause it might not get clogged but over time can slow down the flow and I would think it'd put more stress on the pump as well restricted flow. CVT I have I've changed the paper filter big difference in color no longer black or dark clear. But I haven't taken the time to change the metal one but I've been looking into cleaning the metal screen filter as I heard you can. Ty for this informative video. 👍🏽
😊 Yes! Thank you! Typically, the killer to most transmissions is heat. Not debris or even fluid contamination so much. Now I will extract a gallon every 60,000 mi and maybe drop the pan and clean out every other time but heat is the killer. Transmission companies here in the south in Texas. Make a killing, especially during the summer. More food for thought.😊
exactly
get the new fluid in and call it a day
I had never thought of it this way but so true, if the filter absolutely needs replacement there are bigger problems going on in that tranny. I now am not concerned about not changing the filter in a friends 2018 Impala which has the filter deep inside requiring disassembly. Not sure why GM would not install it at the pan like most transmissions.
good video and very valid points, however most people can`t just buy a pan gasket on its own. the trans filter service kits come with a filter anyway. my advise is to always do a regular trans service - when trans has done under 200,000km, to do every 50,000km, then when trans has done over 200,000km to service every 25,000km....this will give you max life and reliability from your trans...the biggest point of removing the trans pan is to clean the magnet ( and good idea to flush the switch plates ), so the fine metallic wear debris stays away from your solenoids and sensors....i`d recommend adding magnets as well ( once a magnet is covered in the fine debris it cant hold/catch more ) we often add neodymium magnets to trans pan.... and finally bypass the coolant heat exchanger/trans cooler to eliminate chance of "milkshake" or coolant entering trans. good stuff cheers
My 06 Lexus was a little laggy on the shifting. Nothing major like hard shifts, but I went to do a fluid change and it was very dirty. Still a red color to it but dirty. I did a 4 quarts fluid change n saw some improvement. Now I’ll be changing the fluid and filter, just to try n get more of that old dirty fluid n debris out.