Thank you. I know that for many of us, these maintenance items can be second nature and sort of routine. Yet for others, it helps to see the routine for learning.
Very informative. Did you lose a lot of fluid when you unplugged it from the transmission? Looking to remove mine to sand and paint it because it’s too rusty even though the service manual says not to do it because it could impact the balance. After seeing your video, I will need to carefully inspect those U joints.
No, I didn't lose much fluid, almost nothing. Usually there shouldn't be much back there, unless the nose of the car is really high. Yes, clean and paint could affect balance. Rusting could also affect balance as it loses material, but if it is uniform, it usually isn't a problem.
It's a habit developed from many years working on engineering development projects. If you keep the parts together, it allows you to carefully disassemble and analyze the part. Otherwise it is very difficult to do failure analysis because the wear patterns and clues to the failure become scrambled. Certainly it wasn't necessary here.
Yes, I did have the transmission in neutral so that when one rear wheel was lifted, I could rotate the wheel and prop shaft to reach the bolts. This car doesn't have posi, or I might have needed to lift both rear wheels. From a safety standpoint, when the trans was in neutral, I had the front wheels double blocked. When it is out of park and the parking brakes are released, the car can roll. I also would not go under the car until the rear wheel was set back down. I never go under a car on just a jack.
Well, yes, I didn't do them myself. The answer is that most of us cannot do them ourselves without a strong torch or a big press with special fixtures. The shop I used charged like an hour labor to burn out the nylon retainers - it required a lot of heat. I don't see how I could do that with my propane torch. So, the message is that sometimes we can't do the project without outside help. Hopefully I was able to help some people from frustration by understanding the challenge, even though I didn't show pressing the joints out.
If you have a good press and the right adapters, it may be possible to push them out, but it's really tough. If I recall correctly, there is a process in the service manual to do that. Normally I would do u-joints on a big vise using sockets and a hammer. I tried it with this type years ago and there is no way. In production, GM injects nylon in the snap ring grooves instead of using snap rings. That stuff is really tough. When I took it to the shop, I expected they would just use a big press. Actually they told me that they use a torch to burn out the plastic, then press them out. The charge to burn them out was substantial, something like an hour of labor--it takes some time and effort. All I have is a small propane torch, so that wasn't an option.
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Good documentation i love it. I have a 95 z28 with a bad u joint that im going to fix and restore the car to its deserved glory
I'm glad that it helped you. I wish you well on your project.
Good to see how that wore. Like to see all the maintenance your doing. Shows everyone how to proceed....
Thank you. I know that for many of us, these maintenance items can be second nature and sort of routine. Yet for others, it helps to see the routine for learning.
Your videos are the best 👌. Very good explanation of why the joint was bad.
This channel is awesome!
Thank you!
Longevity and enjoyment, is all about maintenance. Cheers!
Very informative. Did you lose a lot of fluid when you unplugged it from the transmission?
Looking to remove mine to sand and paint it because it’s too rusty even though the service manual says not to do it because it could impact the balance. After seeing your video, I will need to carefully inspect those U joints.
No, I didn't lose much fluid, almost nothing. Usually there shouldn't be much back there, unless the nose of the car is really high.
Yes, clean and paint could affect balance. Rusting could also affect balance as it loses material, but if it is uniform, it usually isn't a problem.
Why did you tape a U-joint you knew was Bad and was going to be replaced?
It's a habit developed from many years working on engineering development projects. If you keep the parts together, it allows you to carefully disassemble and analyze the part. Otherwise it is very difficult to do failure analysis because the wear patterns and clues to the failure become scrambled. Certainly it wasn't necessary here.
Would putting the car in neutral help. As u roll the wheel the bolts will become accessible
Yes, I did have the transmission in neutral so that when one rear wheel was lifted, I could rotate the wheel and prop shaft to reach the bolts. This car doesn't have posi, or I might have needed to lift both rear wheels.
From a safety standpoint, when the trans was in neutral, I had the front wheels double blocked. When it is out of park and the parking brakes are released, the car can roll. I also would not go under the car until the rear wheel was set back down. I never go under a car on just a jack.
Everyone was great untill you didn't show how to do the u joints 😭🤦🏻♂️
Well, yes, I didn't do them myself. The answer is that most of us cannot do them ourselves without a strong torch or a big press with special fixtures. The shop I used charged like an hour labor to burn out the nylon retainers - it required a lot of heat. I don't see how I could do that with my propane torch. So, the message is that sometimes we can't do the project without outside help. Hopefully I was able to help some people from frustration by understanding the challenge, even though I didn't show pressing the joints out.
Nicely Done, Now only thing this car needs is an engine and transmission, because both are absolute garbage. Great Videos
Can you replace these U joints by yourself with a press/hammer or do you have you need to take it to a shop?
If you have a good press and the right adapters, it may be possible to push them out, but it's really tough. If I recall correctly, there is a process in the service manual to do that. Normally I would do u-joints on a big vise using sockets and a hammer. I tried it with this type years ago and there is no way. In production, GM injects nylon in the snap ring grooves instead of using snap rings. That stuff is really tough. When I took it to the shop, I expected they would just use a big press. Actually they told me that they use a torch to burn out the plastic, then press them out. The charge to burn them out was substantial, something like an hour of labor--it takes some time and effort. All I have is a small propane torch, so that wasn't an option.