With having recently jumped full fledged into brushless whoops, this has become one of my favorite channels. You don't just fling opinions, you also address common problems and then you present solutions with all of the technical demonstrations and explanations somebody might need. Don't change!
I really like this vid thanks. Really helps out a nooblet with a Trashcan on the way (I'll need to tune everything down as much as possible as I learn quads, but have something sporty as I get better without buying a different model). =D I have an engineers brain so it's rare I don't see something that could be made even better (to a fault. It's really a sickness for me lol).. so I had a couple thoughts (probably nothing new if I dove into RC forums or something, but felt like speaking up about them). -1 is you could take those velcro straps and plasti-dip the portion, and side, that touches the battery. That _probably_ would hold the batteries in just as well as your rubber block thing. and might shave off just a _smidgen_ of weight.. plus no need to worry about losing that rubber piece). -2 When you were trying to fit that board into that small frame, (and didn't want to shave the frame) ... but it was _so_ close.. If you take a very close look at the board I'm giving it an 80% chance you could dremel a notch or two out of it without breaking any circuits, and get it to lie flat. Most boards don't run tracks right up to the edge and I'm assuming this notch would be a couple millimeters only, it seemed super close. (It also looked like maybe all you needed to do was de-solder the red wire and re-position it, but it was hard to tell in the video). Both these ideas take off weight vs. add it. -3. One fun idea I also had was for the charging wire management. I bet you have some charger, dead, laying around. You could remove the charger side of the plastic connector (that you normally plug your battery into), and super glue _that_ little thing to the frame in whatever spot you choose that will get it out of the way, then you could just plug it into it's place for flight... or even a loop of plastic small and flexible enough that when pinched, can distort to make an oval. Make it the right size so you can barely push the charge connector through it, but when you release pressure it goes circular again and now prevents the rectangular connector from going wherever it wants... Basically, the main idea is: _Any_ creative way to "have a place" where that wire can be secured and out of the way, and be as centered as possible (I'm sure some frames already have some spot in the frame you could simply tuck it into. It could be that easy depending on your setup). This also has a small benefit, being in the event the battery comes loose.. the main power wire connector usually takes all the weight and G-force applied to it while the battery dangles. Now the weight would be spread out a bit more with the charge wires help.. _maybe_ .. it depends on the setup because they could end up taking 90% of the weight, while being thinner wires too. You could keep that in mind when choosing the location for the "charge-port-wire holder"). Of course what I personally have done with the few RC's I had a few years back is if it is a long enough wire you could tuck it into your main velcro battery strap... hmm. that just gave me another idea.. haha sorry almost done! 4. On the charge wire again, where the wires are shrink-wrapped and more stiff, (right before they enter the charge connector), you could use your favorite glue (probably something flexible here), and glue a small scrap of velcro onto the wires. Then wherever you decide is good for that wire to end up, you glue the opposing velcro piece onto the frame... for such a small piece of velcro, (maybe 1 square cm?), I would find that better velcro that is miniaturized and doesn't shed like the old stuff. Probably those straps are made from it actually, I don't know. Grats! (You're the one person in the universe that made it to the end of that). ¡¡¡( •̀ ᴗ •́ )و!!!
I use a very thin layer of hotglue on my strap/ziptie to prevent sliding of my lipos. I also Put my Balance connector between the bouth powerwires to secure it
*Great advice in this video, well done!* This info would be true for 1S battery brushless whoops as well, just buy the 1S batteries that have leads, then replace the connectors with an XT-30. Where is that XT-15 connector we have all hoped for and dreamed about? BTW, changing the battery mounting angle for the wires to clear the props is something the frame designers should be doing with the next generation frames.
XT30 is actually bigger than we need, but it does a good job. XT-15 would be about perfect. The closes thing is probably the Micro Deans connector, which is rated for 10A. I know people who use Micro Deans and their builds work great!
Mr ShutterBug - I agree, it’s more than we need, but once you make the change it won’t be a problem since some batteries come with it standard these days. However, I have been using the Red JST on my 1S Whoop builds and it’s good, but I am not a “peddle to the metal” flyer by any means. But a Mobula 7 will be here soon, hopefully today, and I am thinking the best way to run it will be with the XT30. I might have to look into the micro deans connector, had forgotten about that one. Thanks again for this video series, it’s something sorely needed.
@@frankbarajas companies like the red JST connector because it is cheap for machines to manufacture. In some cases, that means cheaper batteries for us, so I don't complain too much. It would be nice if there were more XT30 options out there though.
Mr ShutterBug - Good point! I did some research yesterday on Digikey for various connectors and there simply isn’t anything out there worth using. There was an interesting JST connector but it was only available in the board to wire format and we really need wire to wire. The more we talk about it the more they will listen. Look at the 2S Whoop, it took people like yourself to practically show them how to build it for the “big guys” to take notice. Thank you for that...lol
Great info. You appear to have missed the obvious though. I have the flat style batteries so I clipped the battery holder off and put a couple of elastic band round the whole thing. Looks janky but of course you don't see that in the FPV feed.
You mention in this video the weights would be in another video, I can't find that anywhere. Could you weigh the Tattu long 450 2s pack? Amazon shows the weight at 37g but I find it hard to believe it's 8g heavier than the GNB pack with the exact same specs. Thanks!
The Tattu 450mAh 75C 2S Long battery is around 27.5g. It fits the 75X tray without modification, which is nice, but the GNB 450mAh 80C 2S battery has better performance.
I got the beta 75x with the xt30 an got 5 of the 2s 350mah that betafpv has for sale an just got 5 more of the tattu 450mah 2s my question maybe silly once i sit back an think about it for minute but whats a good low voltage to come down at cause wingin its not workin i end up havin a blast an losen track of time an ive got a few way to low but didnt hurt them
I literally JUST built a 2s whoop on the beta 65 pro frame using a teenycube f3 fc and 2 2 in 1 esc's. I flew it in the kitchen for a second, and wished it wasn't snowing outside the entire time
I heard that lipos that charge to 4.2 can be charged to 4.35v? I heard only the label is the difference and they slap a hv sticker to allow you to charge to 4.35v, is this true? I been doing this to the 1s whoop lipos and it works with no issues.
Thanks for the video. Was looking to move a Mobula7 to the 65x frame, but looks like the 65pro will be a better fit with a 2S battery, so thanks for the advice
The 65X frame will definitely be tougher though. A 2S whoop can crash pretty hard, so take that into account. For myself, I would probably go with the 65X frame with a 3D printed battery adapter. But that's me. I don't slow down for obstacles! Haha!
@@MrShutterBug hmmmm, too late. Ordered in their black friday sale. Good thing I ordered 3 then, haha. I'll see how they go. If I smash them up I'll move to the 65x frame. Just trying to keep it all light as possible. It's actually a Mobula7 I'm moving across to the 65mm frame
I have the Meteor75 lite whoop, which comes with the BetaFPV Advanced Kit2. It has the BT2.0 connector and I was wondering what's gonna happen if I solder another connector to the already existing one and plug in my 2x1s 450mAh batteries at the same time :? Am I going to be searching for a new house or will the board sinply blow up. Straight on the board it says it's 1-2s
I have not tried that combination. In general, I would say that the FC should not blow up when you plug in 2S voltage because you said it is rated for 1-2S. However, the motor KV will be too high for 2S. It would be very fast and accelerate very quickly, but the tune would be wrong and it would draw way too much current on high throttle. Because of the high KV motors, there's a good chance that the ESCs or motors could overheat. If the FC were running Betaflight then you could compensate (more or less) by setting motor_output_limit=50, but your FC is running Betafpv's version of Silverware, so you can't make the same adjustment there (unless you're a programmer). I recommend sticking with 1S unless you also change the motors. But experiment however you want (at your own risk), that's part of the fun of this hobby!
@@MrShutterBug Thank you! This information, especially the encouragement to try stuff out will definitely help me out. The strangest part of my drone is indeed the board, which while running on some strange Silverware version deprived of any actual OSD-based tune settings (only has LAYOUT, CONFIG) - has a USB port on it and that boggles my mind as to what is it's purpose. BetaFPV hasn't responded yet and my investigation has led me to a mere 1-2 results for other ppl with the same whoop on the web. It can be seen on this post: amp.reddit.com/r/TinyWhoop/comments/km49zx/manual_for_fc_in_picture_lite_12s_ordered_the/ Any help in resolving the mystery would be as always highly appreciated. Best, Alex
Thank you for a super informative review. I decided to change my mobula7 with an xt30 connector for gnb 2s flight and leave just one of the ph2.0 connectors for 1s indoor flying. It flew great once on 2s, now the f/c doesn’t respond when I plug another lips in. If I plug a 1s lipo - it’s fine? I’m baffled as to why. I can confirm the solders are fine and 2s current gets to the f/c. Have you any pointers for me to check please
Trevor Crouch so you ping in a 1S battery and it works? Are the two connectors wires up in parallel (unlike the two original connectors which were in series)?
I've just reconstructed the 'old' 2 x PH 2.0 connectors in series with 2s lipos and once again nothing from the f/c, everything is fine on 1 x 1s lipo. Is there something on the f/c I can look for or check?
@@trevorc6793 Sounds like a problem with the FC, unfortunately. Maybe the voltage regulator is bad? When a battery is connected (1S or 2S), you should get 5V on the pad that powers the camera. That 5V line also powers the FC itself. So it's probably not getting the right voltage. I have a Mobula7, but I have not modded mine.
hello there. I just ordered a betafpv75x last week and still waiting for it to turn up. just wondering if the betafpv 450 mAh 80c batteries are ok to fly with in the 75x? i know ill have to cut out the bottom rail off the battery cradle but would there be anything else stopping that from working ok? will i burn out my esc or fc at all? i was hopeing i'd just get a bit more time in the air. thanks for the nice vids.
Geoffrey Kelly a 450mAh battery will give you longer flight time, but the added weight makes it harder to pull of some of the acrobatic maneuvers. The BetaFPV 450 will work but the 80C batteries by GNB and Crazepony have better performance. Cheers!
Okay so first off I bought the 75x preordered and when I got it, it bound up the switches were read on betaflight but the sticks were not....... I tried a new receiver to no avail.... the customer service tried to send a new FC but sent a new esc..... I haven’t been able to play with my beta75x yet..... have you heard of any duds? Or anyone ?
@@gnarlyblasterboys4123 that stinks. So you're saying you can see your AUX channels working in Betaflight for the switches but not for the sticks? I have a hard time believing that's a problem with the FC. It's more likely to be a problem with how the model is set up on your transmitter. But I'm just guessing. Have you used the same transmitter settings successfully on a different build?
Hi. Do you have the original Mobula 7 with 16,000KV 0802 motors? High motor heat is usually caused by insufficient gyro filtering in Betaflight. There is always some amount of noise in the gyro signal (caused by either physical vibration or electrical issues), but betaflight is usually pretty good at filtering out the noise. But if the noise isn't filtered out, then betaflight will send noisy motor commands. As the motor speeds up and slows down in rapid succession, it will get hot. Does that make sense? So my advice would be to: 1 - Verify that the frame is not cracked and that the props are in good condition. These issues may cause extra vibration. 2 - Try increasing the amount of filtering in Betaflight. If that doesn't work, then you might be able to update to a newer version of Betaflight with better filtering. You can find lots of videos about flashing and updating Betaflight, if you want to attempt it. Good luck.
It's called UMMAGRIP. I use it as a battery pad for all my 5" racing builds. Works great on 2S whoops too! www.racedayquads.com/products/ummagrip-universal-super-sticky-battery-pad
You can use the Snapper6 (65mm) or the Snapper7 (75mm) frame. It is carbon fiber, and aluminum.. but heavier, and more prone to breakage believe it or not.
DimplePoji my original 2S whoop uses the super_s stack with an adapter. The one in this video has the BetaFPV 2S stack (from the 65X and 75X). The Crazybee Pro (from the Mobula7) would also work and save some weight.
Hey man. Just tried you xt30 mod on my mobula 7 and it all worked fine when i first plugged in a 2s battery but when i put it all back together and brought it outside to fly..nothing. Reattached the xt30 2 more times and reattached the original parallel dongle and still nothing?? Plugged into betaflight it works though?? Help?
Wow.... 3 yrs later and still a very practical, informative video!
With having recently jumped full fledged into brushless whoops, this has become one of my favorite channels. You don't just fling opinions, you also address common problems and then you present solutions with all of the technical demonstrations and explanations somebody might need. Don't change!
I'm glad it's helpful. I do what I can. Happy to give back to the community that has helped me so much in the past!
I really like this vid thanks. Really helps out a nooblet with a Trashcan on the way (I'll need to tune everything down as much as possible as I learn quads, but have something sporty as I get better without buying a different model). =D
I have an engineers brain so it's rare I don't see something that could be made even better (to a fault. It's really a sickness for me lol).. so I had a couple thoughts (probably nothing new if I dove into RC forums or something, but felt like speaking up about them).
-1 is you could take those velcro straps and plasti-dip the portion, and side, that touches the battery. That _probably_ would hold the batteries in just as well as your rubber block thing. and might shave off just a _smidgen_ of weight.. plus no need to worry about losing that rubber piece).
-2 When you were trying to fit that board into that small frame, (and didn't want to shave the frame) ... but it was _so_ close.. If you take a very close look at the board I'm giving it an 80% chance you could dremel a notch or two out of it without breaking any circuits, and get it to lie flat. Most boards don't run tracks right up to the edge and I'm assuming this notch would be a couple millimeters only, it seemed super close. (It also looked like maybe all you needed to do was de-solder the red wire and re-position it, but it was hard to tell in the video). Both these ideas take off weight vs. add it.
-3. One fun idea I also had was for the charging wire management. I bet you have some charger, dead, laying around. You could remove the charger side of the plastic connector (that you normally plug your battery into), and super glue _that_ little thing to the frame in whatever spot you choose that will get it out of the way, then you could just plug it into it's place for flight... or even a loop of plastic small and flexible enough that when pinched, can distort to make an oval. Make it the right size so you can barely push the charge connector through it, but when you release pressure it goes circular again and now prevents the rectangular connector from going wherever it wants... Basically, the main idea is: _Any_ creative way to "have a place" where that wire can be secured and out of the way, and be as centered as possible (I'm sure some frames already have some spot in the frame you could simply tuck it into. It could be that easy depending on your setup). This also has a small benefit, being in the event the battery comes loose.. the main power wire connector usually takes all the weight and G-force applied to it while the battery dangles. Now the weight would be spread out a bit more with the charge wires help.. _maybe_ .. it depends on the setup because they could end up taking 90% of the weight, while being thinner wires too. You could keep that in mind when choosing the location for the "charge-port-wire holder"). Of course what I personally have done with the few RC's I had a few years back is if it is a long enough wire you could tuck it into your main velcro battery strap... hmm. that just gave me another idea.. haha sorry almost done!
4. On the charge wire again, where the wires are shrink-wrapped and more stiff, (right before they enter the charge connector), you could use your favorite glue (probably something flexible here), and glue a small scrap of velcro onto the wires. Then wherever you decide is good for that wire to end up, you glue the opposing velcro piece onto the frame... for such a small piece of velcro, (maybe 1 square cm?), I would find that better velcro that is miniaturized and doesn't shed like the old stuff. Probably those straps are made from it actually, I don't know.
Grats! (You're the one person in the universe that made it to the end of that). ¡¡¡( •̀ ᴗ •́ )و!!!
i know its an old vid but i never thought about those velcro cable ties trying to turn a 1s frame to 2s. thanks dude
I love those cable ties. I've been using them on my 2" micro since I started and they are perfect for micros.
I use a very thin layer of hotglue on my strap/ziptie to prevent sliding of my lipos.
I also Put my Balance connector between the bouth powerwires to secure it
Great informational video Mr Shutterbug... So well set-out and clear information; thank you...
Great video Nate. It was only just a day or so I was asking you about the battery mod on fb. Cheers for taking the time to post this 👍
I'm glad it helps! I meant to make this video a long time ago. Life gets busy!
*Great advice in this video, well done!* This info would be true for 1S battery brushless whoops as well, just buy the 1S batteries that have leads, then replace the connectors with an XT-30.
Where is that XT-15 connector we have all hoped for and dreamed about? BTW, changing the battery mounting angle for the wires to clear the props is something the frame designers should be doing with the next generation frames.
XT30 is actually bigger than we need, but it does a good job. XT-15 would be about perfect. The closes thing is probably the Micro Deans connector, which is rated for 10A. I know people who use Micro Deans and their builds work great!
Mr ShutterBug - I agree, it’s more than we need, but once you make the change it won’t be a problem since some batteries come with it standard these days. However, I have been using the Red JST on my 1S Whoop builds and it’s good, but I am not a “peddle to the metal” flyer by any means. But a Mobula 7 will be here soon, hopefully today, and I am thinking the best way to run it will be with the XT30. I might have to look into the micro deans connector, had forgotten about that one. Thanks again for this video series, it’s something sorely needed.
@@frankbarajas companies like the red JST connector because it is cheap for machines to manufacture. In some cases, that means cheaper batteries for us, so I don't complain too much. It would be nice if there were more XT30 options out there though.
Mr ShutterBug - Good point! I did some research yesterday on Digikey for various connectors and there simply isn’t anything out there worth using. There was an interesting JST connector but it was only available in the board to wire format and we really need wire to wire. The more we talk about it the more they will listen. Look at the 2S Whoop, it took people like yourself to practically show them how to build it for the “big guys” to take notice. Thank you for that...lol
Great info. You appear to have missed the obvious though. I have the flat style batteries so I clipped the battery holder off and put a couple of elastic band round the whole thing. Looks janky but of course you don't see that in the FPV feed.
Fraser Steen cool man! Whatever works. I’m just showing what I do.
Good reviews I just ordered the Eachine Trashcan what’s the largest batteries can get for it in 1s and 2s
You mention in this video the weights would be in another video, I can't find that anywhere. Could you weigh the Tattu long 450 2s pack? Amazon shows the weight at 37g but I find it hard to believe it's 8g heavier than the GNB pack with the exact same specs. Thanks!
The Tattu 450mAh 75C 2S Long battery is around 27.5g. It fits the 75X tray without modification, which is nice, but the GNB 450mAh 80C 2S battery has better performance.
Awesome, thank you!!!
I got the beta 75x with the xt30 an got 5 of the 2s 350mah that betafpv has for sale an just got 5 more of the tattu 450mah 2s my question maybe silly once i sit back an think about it for minute but whats a good low voltage to come down at cause wingin its not workin i end up havin a blast an losen track of time an ive got a few way to low but didnt hurt them
I literally JUST built a 2s whoop on the beta 65 pro frame using a teenycube f3 fc and 2 2 in 1 esc's. I flew it in the kitchen for a second, and wished it wasn't snowing outside the entire time
I heard that lipos that charge to 4.2 can be charged to 4.35v? I heard only the label is the difference and they slap a hv sticker to allow you to charge to 4.35v, is this true? I been doing this to the 1s whoop lipos and it works with no issues.
Thanks for the video. Was looking to move a Mobula7 to the 65x frame, but looks like the 65pro will be a better fit with a 2S battery, so thanks for the advice
The 65X frame will definitely be tougher though. A 2S whoop can crash pretty hard, so take that into account. For myself, I would probably go with the 65X frame with a 3D printed battery adapter. But that's me. I don't slow down for obstacles! Haha!
@@MrShutterBug hmmmm, too late. Ordered in their black friday sale. Good thing I ordered 3 then, haha. I'll see how they go. If I smash them up I'll move to the 65x frame. Just trying to keep it all light as possible. It's actually a Mobula7 I'm moving across to the 65mm frame
I have the Meteor75 lite whoop, which comes with the BetaFPV Advanced Kit2. It has the BT2.0 connector and I was wondering what's gonna happen if I solder another connector to the already existing one and plug in my 2x1s 450mAh batteries at the same time :?
Am I going to be searching for a new house or will the board sinply blow up.
Straight on the board it says it's 1-2s
I have not tried that combination. In general, I would say that the FC should not blow up when you plug in 2S voltage because you said it is rated for 1-2S. However, the motor KV will be too high for 2S. It would be very fast and accelerate very quickly, but the tune would be wrong and it would draw way too much current on high throttle. Because of the high KV motors, there's a good chance that the ESCs or motors could overheat. If the FC were running Betaflight then you could compensate (more or less) by setting motor_output_limit=50, but your FC is running Betafpv's version of Silverware, so you can't make the same adjustment there (unless you're a programmer). I recommend sticking with 1S unless you also change the motors. But experiment however you want (at your own risk), that's part of the fun of this hobby!
@@MrShutterBug Thank you!
This information, especially the encouragement to try stuff out will definitely help me out.
The strangest part of my drone is indeed the board, which while running on some strange Silverware version deprived of any actual OSD-based tune settings (only has LAYOUT, CONFIG) - has a USB port on it and that boggles my mind as to what is it's purpose.
BetaFPV hasn't responded yet and my investigation has led me to a mere 1-2 results for other ppl with the same whoop on the web.
It can be seen on this post: amp.reddit.com/r/TinyWhoop/comments/km49zx/manual_for_fc_in_picture_lite_12s_ordered_the/
Any help in resolving the mystery would be as always highly appreciated.
Best,
Alex
Could you fit the hardware from the 65 pro 2 in the frame of the 75 pro 2? Would be nice to have the battery tray from the 75 on the 65 :)
Yes you could. Just get the frame and some 40mm props and you’ll have yourself a 75 Pro 2.
Did you have to take the stack off to get that strap on? I don't see a way with everything put together.
Adam Tolli I don’t think you have to take it out but you might have to unscrew the FC and push it up some while you run the trap through. Good luck!
Awesome work Mr. 🐞
Thank you for a super informative review. I decided to change my mobula7 with an xt30 connector for gnb 2s flight and leave just one of the ph2.0 connectors for 1s indoor flying. It flew great once on 2s, now the f/c doesn’t respond when I plug another lips in. If I plug a 1s lipo - it’s fine? I’m baffled as to why. I can confirm the solders are fine and 2s current gets to the f/c. Have you any pointers for me to check please
Trevor Crouch so you ping in a 1S battery and it works? Are the two connectors wires up in parallel (unlike the two original connectors which were in series)?
correct Ive connected both 1s & 2s wires directed to the corresponding +/- pads on the F/C
Trevor Crouch and you can test the voltage to see that the FC is getting 2S voltage? That is a puzzler. 🤔
I've just reconstructed the 'old' 2 x PH 2.0 connectors in series with 2s lipos and once again nothing from the f/c, everything is fine on 1 x 1s lipo. Is there something on the f/c I can look for or check?
@@trevorc6793 Sounds like a problem with the FC, unfortunately. Maybe the voltage regulator is bad? When a battery is connected (1S or 2S), you should get 5V on the pad that powers the camera. That 5V line also powers the FC itself. So it's probably not getting the right voltage. I have a Mobula7, but I have not modded mine.
Nice video!
Could you test the RDQ 2s 300mah pack and the betaFPV 2s 350mah packs and compare them to the batteries you most recently tested?
ctsws6 I will release a video soon showing the BetaFPV 350, TBS 300, and GNB 300. I do not have the RDQ battery however.
hello there. I just ordered a betafpv75x last week and still waiting for it to turn up. just wondering if the betafpv 450 mAh 80c batteries are ok to fly with in the 75x? i know ill have to cut out the bottom rail off the battery cradle but would there be anything else stopping that from working ok? will i burn out my esc or fc at all? i was hopeing i'd just get a bit more time in the air. thanks for the nice vids.
Geoffrey Kelly a 450mAh battery will give you longer flight time, but the added weight makes it harder to pull of some of the acrobatic maneuvers. The BetaFPV 450 will work but the 80C batteries by GNB and Crazepony have better performance. Cheers!
Okay so first off I bought the 75x preordered and when I got it, it bound up the switches were read on betaflight but the sticks were not....... I tried a new receiver to no avail.... the customer service tried to send a new FC but sent a new esc..... I haven’t been able to play with my beta75x yet..... have you heard of any duds? Or anyone ?
Second your videos are awesome!
@@gnarlyblasterboys4123 that stinks. So you're saying you can see your AUX channels working in Betaflight for the switches but not for the sticks? I have a hard time believing that's a problem with the FC. It's more likely to be a problem with how the model is set up on your transmitter. But I'm just guessing. Have you used the same transmitter settings successfully on a different build?
They always make my 2s mobula 7 motors get hot as can be!! How can I help that?
Hi. Do you have the original Mobula 7 with 16,000KV 0802 motors? High motor heat is usually caused by insufficient gyro filtering in Betaflight. There is always some amount of noise in the gyro signal (caused by either physical vibration or electrical issues), but betaflight is usually pretty good at filtering out the noise. But if the noise isn't filtered out, then betaflight will send noisy motor commands. As the motor speeds up and slows down in rapid succession, it will get hot. Does that make sense?
So my advice would be to:
1 - Verify that the frame is not cracked and that the props are in good condition. These issues may cause extra vibration.
2 - Try increasing the amount of filtering in Betaflight. If that doesn't work, then you might be able to update to a newer version of Betaflight with better filtering. You can find lots of videos about flashing and updating Betaflight, if you want to attempt it.
Good luck.
can you make the whoop battery wirelessly.charge
Good video. GNB vs Tattu. which ones you prefer?
The GNB 450mAh 80C 2S battery is one of the best 2S batteries I've used. You can get them here: amzn.to/2RHyveY
Fuck i cant get a battery strap between the frame and FC because i use a FLI14+ underbeath the FC and no more room left, neither under the canopy.
What was the name of the grip you used for the battery?
It's called UMMAGRIP. I use it as a battery pad for all my 5" racing builds. Works great on 2S whoops too! www.racedayquads.com/products/ummagrip-universal-super-sticky-battery-pad
Is that 18AWG on all of your XT30s?
18AWG or 20AWG is typical for batteries in this size.
Do they make aluminum frames for this to change to?
I have never tried an aluminum frame.
You can use the Snapper6 (65mm) or the Snapper7 (75mm) frame. It is carbon fiber, and aluminum.. but heavier, and more prone to breakage believe it or not.
What FC u used on the 75pro frame?
DimplePoji my original 2S whoop uses the super_s stack with an adapter. The one in this video has the BetaFPV 2S stack (from the 65X and 75X). The Crazybee Pro (from the Mobula7) would also work and save some weight.
Awsome content
Hey man. Just tried you xt30 mod on my mobula 7 and it all worked fine when i first plugged in a 2s battery but when i put it all back together and brought it outside to fly..nothing. Reattached the xt30 2 more times and reattached the original parallel dongle and still nothing?? Plugged into betaflight it works though?? Help?
KrowFPV hard to say. Do you have a multimeter? Can you verify the FC is receiving the battery voltage?
@@MrShutterBug Yeam im pretty sure i lifted the contacts off..ordered a new board. ;)
Thanks a lot
Hey bro, im using 2s 450 but motor very hot, i watch on RUclips even they flight with 2s 550