Great roundup and comparison! Thorough and concise coverage for something we all use and need to know to make better purchasing decisions in the future. Thank you.
Nice work! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I look forward to you testing the Gaoneng 2s HV pack. Ive always had good a experience with GNB batteries.
Wow! Probably the best battery comparison Video I ever saw. Thanks for the time and effort you put into it! I use the 45c and 70c nano techs on my mob7 and have a ton of fun with it :) I'm glad I picked the right batterys
Thank you for the great data and insights. I converted my Mobula 7 to XT30 and have 4 of those Tattu batteries I am going to fly around with soon. Just tooting around the house with the XT30 mod and the Tattus it is clear it is a far superior setup to the dual 1S setup it comes with stock. There is little to no sag as you have clearly shown. The dual 1s setup would sag noticeably even with very light throttle use. I had to modify the Mobula battery section to just use rubber bands to hold the battery. It does make it easy now to use many more batteries as it doesn't have to fit the stock width any longer.
I got the bad Tattus unfortunately. I bought a 4 pack from Amazon and converted them to XT30s. Each one of them doesn't hold charge very well overnight. In addition, it sags almost immediately after an initial short punch just like your results showed. I will be looking for a better alternative.
thanks shutterbug i can feel big difference when i changed my beta65x to xt30 with 18gauge wire...now i need to find good strapping setup..i used ummagawds ummagrip lite(blue version) cant wait to try outside..inside house i could tell big difference in feel and sound
Great roundup. I have six of the 45C and six of the 70C Nano Techs and always can guess correctly which one I am currently flying. The 45C for some reason perform better than the 75C and they are cheaper too. I do not like the BetaFPV battery though, it sags really quickly for me - might also be due to the cold weather right now. Can't wait for the GNB batteries.
Yup the GNB battery looks promising! It has an 80C rating, but as we saw today, C-rating don't mean much. The 70C nano is no better than the 35C version, but the 45C can be fantastic!
Turning Graphene 4S lipos are my best bet when testing my 5" quads. I got 6 and lucky for me they all kick ass. The BetaFPV 350mA 2S lipos suck bad. Pulse costs too much for me because of the shipping. TATTU and Rline may be an option. The 450mA Tattu is shaped like the BetaFPV stock lipo so maybe that's the way to go.
I really would like to know if a GNB 450 has a longer flighttime compared to a Nanotech 300 on a whoop. It's compared 28 grams to 20 grams. Could you fly a GNB 450 on a mobula or is it too heavy?
I have those, and will hopefully have time to review them one of these days. I showed how to mount the GNB 450mAh 80C (long version) in my video "Batteries & Mods". It is crazy powerful. It will definitely give longer flight time compared to 300mAh. I haven't tried a battery that large on the M7 yet, but I expect it would work. In general, 300mAh will give better agility (good for indoors, technical racing, freestyle), and 450mAh will give longer flights and more drag racing power. The GNB 450mAh 80C battery is very similar to the Crazepony version (which might just be a rebrand). I showed a flight with that battery here: ruclips.net/video/C5jQPfocrGo/видео.html
While you aren't asking me, I have them and prefer the 300 Nanotech that Shutterbug recommends. The 450 is just too heavy for my taste but they have incredible power. So long punchouts, you would want the 450 but to me, thats not what this little guy is designed to do. This is 2 days ago getting some flights in before I had to leave. I should note, my Nanotech packs are 2 years old. yep, 2 years old. ruclips.net/video/up9_BNmSlp4/видео.html
Ah nice i've ordered 4 of those nanotechs 35/70 a couple days ago. Question, i'm going for red JST on my mobula, the new battery is also red JST but the wire is long also, how would i shorten the wire with red JST. I've never had a red JST in my hand, can the wires be clicked or soldered out or do i have to splice the wire etc?
@@MrShutterBug Ah thanks for the clarification, since it looks like it has detachable pins it's kinda confusing. Maybe a stupid question but, do you just strip, cut, solder, apply Heat shrink tubing and done?
@@exposer3339 I don't use the red JST connector any more because it causes more sag than xt30, but the Mobula doesn't need much current so you'll probably be fine. Cutting and rejoining wires will work. The other option is to replace the entire 24awg PH2 pigtail with a new 20awg JST pigtail by soldering directly to the FC. But the pads on that FC are pretty delicate. You could damage them in the process. If you're not confident in your soldering, then I suggest splicing the wires together (like you said). That'll be pretty straight forward. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug thanks i will desolder the entire thin wire from the FC and make the new wire very short so the extra length on the battery side isnt that bad. Since the current one on the fc is also pretty long haha.
I have not tried xt30 on my mobula yet. I know that people have done it, but I can't tell you what's safe. There are 3D printed battery holders that can hook to the bottom of the Mobula. Check thingiverse if you want to try it. This video talks about mounting 2S on the BetaFPV frames: ruclips.net/video/zi4o2-ZZ-i4/видео.html
I got the Nano-tech 45C after your recommendation and I'm happy with them. I think they have the best price value. Or is there a better one now? What's your favorite atm?
Hi. Nano techs are still a good value and best power for low weight. There are some “80C” batteries now (see my other video) which perform better under extreme lead but I still use the nano techs for indoor racing where weight matters more. The current gen BetaFPV 300mah 2S is a rebrand of nanotech so it’s just as good and comes with xt30 so I often recommend that for light builds. Cheers.
I looked, but could not find a vid about the virtual one.. Last question, is the scale different for every quad? Example beta 65s or 75s. Same values or no?
Different values. But you can start with the same values and adjust from there. Compare mah on OSD to mah on charger and adjust the virtual current sensor scale as necessary.
ok. I will start with the values you gave earlier and go from there.. I asked Joshua Bardwell how to calibrate the virtual sensor.. Maybe he will make a video at some point.. Thank you Mr Shutterbug. You have a new fan!!
On my Libero Micro the OSD said I used 125mah, and I charged 197mah= 75mah+ - Wich way do I go with my scale? Down? I started with your figures, the bottom end is super close to correct
To get the used mah reading in the OSD correct, what is your scale set to? what version? I have been trying to get mine accurate for 30+ packs now.. My scale is at 700 I think.. It's almost close to being correct lol...
There is no current sensor in most of these drones so you have to use the virtual current sensor. It will never be perfect but it can be accurate enough to be useful (like 95%). The correct numbers depend on how you fly, weight, props, everything. For 75x with 300mah 2S, some good starting values are: set current_meter = VIRTUAL set ibatv_scale = 90 set ibatv_offset = 29
Great roundup and comparison! Thorough and concise coverage for something we all use and need to know to make better purchasing decisions in the future. Thank you.
Nice work! Thanks for taking the time to do this. I look forward to you testing the Gaoneng 2s HV pack. Ive always had good a experience with GNB batteries.
Wow! Probably the best battery comparison Video I ever saw. Thanks for the time and effort you put into it! I use the 45c and 70c nano techs on my mob7 and have a ton of fun with it :) I'm glad I picked the right batterys
Thanks, it was a crazy amount of work! I won't be able to put this much time into future videos, but I'll do what I can.
Thank you for the great data and insights. I converted my Mobula 7 to XT30 and have 4 of those Tattu batteries I am going to fly around with soon. Just tooting around the house with the XT30 mod and the Tattus it is clear it is a far superior setup to the dual 1S setup it comes with stock. There is little to no sag as you have clearly shown. The dual 1s setup would sag noticeably even with very light throttle use. I had to modify the Mobula battery section to just use rubber bands to hold the battery. It does make it easy now to use many more batteries as it doesn't have to fit the stock width any longer.
I got the bad Tattus unfortunately. I bought a 4 pack from Amazon and converted them to XT30s. Each one of them doesn't hold charge very well overnight. In addition, it sags almost immediately after an initial short punch just like your results showed. I will be looking for a better alternative.
thanks shutterbug i can feel big difference when i changed my beta65x to xt30 with 18gauge wire...now i need to find good strapping setup..i used ummagawds ummagrip lite(blue version) cant wait to try outside..inside house i could tell big difference in feel and sound
Still very interesting and informative 4 years later....I hope you did some GNB tests by now, I'm about to have a look if you did haha..I hope so!
Great roundup. I have six of the 45C and six of the 70C Nano Techs and always can guess correctly which one I am currently flying. The 45C for some reason perform better than the 75C and they are cheaper too. I do not like the BetaFPV battery though, it sags really quickly for me - might also be due to the cold weather right now. Can't wait for the GNB batteries.
Yup the GNB battery looks promising! It has an 80C rating, but as we saw today, C-rating don't mean much. The 70C nano is no better than the 35C version, but the 45C can be fantastic!
@@MrShutterBug Yes, it is a shame, that even within them same brand the C-rating can not be used as an indicator...
Thank you so much - great work!!!
Thank you very much for your hard work!
Thank you so much for that info. I have been trying for days lol. I wish I could ask you 1,000 questions haha Thank you
Thanks for the test!👍
Wonder if you have tried some T-motor F-10's They are incredible. I fly these nano 300's and Tattu's. Awesome info. and flying!
Wow time put in!!!! Thank you!
Turning Graphene 4S lipos are my best bet when testing my 5" quads. I got 6 and lucky for me they all kick ass. The BetaFPV 350mA 2S lipos suck bad. Pulse costs too much for me because of the shipping. TATTU and Rline may be an option. The 450mA Tattu is shaped like the BetaFPV stock lipo so maybe that's the way to go.
My whoops murder those nano-tech 45-90 batts, the one 35-70C is puffed but holding up lol.
I'm just shopping around waiting for my 1S batteries to die. I can't wait for that fresh 2S battery feel!
Very good. Which 2s battery would you recommend to fly the longest (no stunts, no running) on a Mobula 7 HD? Thankful.
I have 1104 7500 brushless motor so should I use GNB battery (300mah) or not
I really would like to know if a GNB 450 has a longer flighttime compared to a Nanotech 300 on a whoop. It's compared 28 grams to 20 grams. Could you fly a GNB 450 on a mobula or is it too heavy?
I have those, and will hopefully have time to review them one of these days. I showed how to mount the GNB 450mAh 80C (long version) in my video "Batteries & Mods". It is crazy powerful. It will definitely give longer flight time compared to 300mAh. I haven't tried a battery that large on the M7 yet, but I expect it would work. In general, 300mAh will give better agility (good for indoors, technical racing, freestyle), and 450mAh will give longer flights and more drag racing power.
The GNB 450mAh 80C battery is very similar to the Crazepony version (which might just be a rebrand). I showed a flight with that battery here: ruclips.net/video/C5jQPfocrGo/видео.html
Thanks for your help! @@MrShutterBug
While you aren't asking me, I have them and prefer the 300 Nanotech that Shutterbug recommends. The 450 is just too heavy for my taste but they have incredible power. So long punchouts, you would want the 450 but to me, thats not what this little guy is designed to do. This is 2 days ago getting some flights in before I had to leave. I should note, my Nanotech packs are 2 years old. yep, 2 years old. ruclips.net/video/up9_BNmSlp4/видео.html
What about flighttime in comparison? @@beeradfpv
Thank you kindly, this was a really good video, really good information. You earned a sub from me.
Would you recommend using a betafpv 350mah witht he mobula 7??
Ah nice i've ordered 4 of those nanotechs 35/70 a couple days ago.
Question, i'm going for red JST on my mobula, the new battery is also red JST but the wire is long also, how would i shorten the wire with red JST.
I've never had a red JST in my hand, can the wires be clicked or soldered out or do i have to splice the wire etc?
The red JST is a crimped connector. You will probably have to cut and splice wires.
@@MrShutterBug Ah thanks for the clarification, since it looks like it has detachable pins it's kinda confusing.
Maybe a stupid question but, do you just strip, cut, solder, apply Heat shrink tubing and done?
@@exposer3339 I don't use the red JST connector any more because it causes more sag than xt30, but the Mobula doesn't need much current so you'll probably be fine. Cutting and rejoining wires will work. The other option is to replace the entire 24awg PH2 pigtail with a new 20awg JST pigtail by soldering directly to the FC. But the pads on that FC are pretty delicate. You could damage them in the process. If you're not confident in your soldering, then I suggest splicing the wires together (like you said). That'll be pretty straight forward. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug thanks i will desolder the entire thin wire from the FC and make the new wire very short so the extra length on the battery side isnt that bad. Since the current one on the fc is also pretty long haha.
What about the mobula 7 how could u mod the xt30 on that and what's the most power you could run on it wo frying the board
I have not tried xt30 on my mobula yet. I know that people have done it, but I can't tell you what's safe. There are 3D printed battery holders that can hook to the bottom of the Mobula. Check thingiverse if you want to try it. This video talks about mounting 2S on the BetaFPV frames: ruclips.net/video/zi4o2-ZZ-i4/видео.html
I got the Nano-tech 45C after your recommendation and I'm happy with them. I think they have the best price value. Or is there a better one now? What's your favorite atm?
Hi. Nano techs are still a good value and best power for low weight. There are some “80C” batteries now (see my other video) which perform better under extreme lead but I still use the nano techs for indoor racing where weight matters more. The current gen BetaFPV 300mah 2S is a rebrand of nanotech so it’s just as good and comes with xt30 so I often recommend that for light builds. Cheers.
@@MrShutterBug Awesome, thanks a lot :)
I looked, but could not find a vid about the virtual one.. Last question, is the scale different for every quad? Example beta 65s or 75s. Same values or no?
Different values. But you can start with the same values and adjust from there. Compare mah on OSD to mah on charger and adjust the virtual current sensor scale as necessary.
ok. I will start with the values you gave earlier and go from there.. I asked Joshua Bardwell how to calibrate the virtual sensor.. Maybe he will make a video at some point.. Thank you Mr Shutterbug. You have a new fan!!
On my Libero Micro the OSD said I used 125mah, and I charged 197mah= 75mah+ - Wich way do I go with my scale? Down? I started with your figures, the bottom end is super close to correct
Ok, I'm getting it now.. Now I understand how it works for the most part.. Thank you so much...
To get the used mah reading in the OSD correct, what is your scale set to? what version? I have been trying to get mine accurate for 30+ packs now.. My scale is at 700 I think.. It's almost close to being correct lol...
There is no current sensor in most of these drones so you have to use the virtual current sensor. It will never be perfect but it can be accurate enough to be useful (like 95%). The correct numbers depend on how you fly, weight, props, everything. For 75x with 300mah 2S, some good starting values are:
set current_meter = VIRTUAL
set ibatv_scale = 90
set ibatv_offset = 29
ok, so I select virtual.. I will try it
How do you figure out the scale, and offset? I am trying to set up betafpv tiny whoop. same values?
Michael Johnson it’s a bit more than I can explain right here. You can probably find other RUclips videos on calibrating the virtual current sensor.
Thank you again. The info was super helpful.. I have watched hours of your vids in the past two days
Aswome test
👍🔋🔬🐞
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