I'd recommend using a capacitor in parallel is you do any xt30 upgrades. I blew up my Crazybee flight controller in my Eachine Trashcan as the pigtails Eachine supplied with the Whoop, had no capacitor installed. I ordered the Happymodel New Crazybee F4 PRO V3.0 Flight Controller which will take the slow-ship from China so I should be able to fly around this time in 2024.
Thank you so much, You exactly named my considerations and gave an answer! I'm in the very beginning steps and was thinking about what batteries I should stick to for Meteor 85. Charging of batteries is a real hidden catch for beginners I guess. I have had some understanding of charging multiple channels in parallel and serial so my questions led exactly to gauge bottleneck. I am happy to find your video before I did invest in 1S bunch.
@@armandor.calderong.9135 can’t say that it did but the performance was much better! The battery no longer sags immediately. It holds well until the end where it dives down a bunch. Majority of the flight is vastly improved though. I’d recommend it if you don’t mind ditching or converting your ph2.0 batteries or buying new xt30 ones.
I replaced these crimp-style ph2.0 with the full pin ones and thicker wires and it was an amazing change. It would suggest to build an 2x PH2.0 to xt30 for the users of 1s
Excellent video. I've been changing out all of my 2s quads to xt30 with 18 gauge wire including all my emax tinyhawk 2 and you said it best...a firehouse of power! 😆
This is really cool. I am building a 2s-4s 3 inch quad but I only have 1s batteries that came with my tinyhawks. I thought I would have to get a new charger and 2s, 3s, or 4s batteries before I could even see if the thing flies. I know it won't have much power and probably won't last long, but it's cool to know that I can check it out and actually get it in the air with my current 1s batteries. Luckily I bought several ph 2.0 male and female connectors and several xt30 connectors a while back. So I have everything to make this connector.
I still like XT30 on my 1S tinyhawk S hey. I run duel XT30 set up to use the 1S batteries for my TH freestyle and race. Extra weight is negated by the fact the batteries just don't sag and feels like you can just hot it wide open
This is quite surprising because it's so drastic. It's hard to even guess what's going on. Could the PH2 connectors just be getting so hot that whole amps of current are being lost to heat? I just put an XT30 on one of my micros with large props and am getting a day and night difference in speed, punch and consistency. Quite shocking. My AUW maximum load can be increased to 75g now even from a previous 65g.
Yeah, it can be pretty dramatic. The amount of voltage drop can definitely exceed what you would normally calculate based on the specifications of the wires, connectors, and batteries. Sometimes those folded pin PH2 connectors don't make a great connection, which exaggerates the problem. I've had better luck with the solid-pin PH2 connectors made by JST, but they have their limits too. I think you're right about the heat, and high heat also increases the resistance.
On my tiny 8x with powerfull brushed motors, when I use HV batts I get burned (chared) ph2 connectors in like every 6 flights, I switched to non HV batts and all is ok now. was thinking of putting redJST connectors on it.
Great comparison! Thank you! I've a question about the PH2 plug. Why is this plug getting "old" while using? What is changing so the voltage drop is getting even worse? After 30-40 flights now I get so much voltage drop I cant fly for 5sec without voltage warning. Tried some new batteries but the problem still exists. 2 weeks ago I had no problems and a flight time from 1:30 to 2:00 minutes. Or may I be caused by something different?
It’s because a lot of the cheaper p.h.2 connectors have pins that are made of thin rolled metal, so after awhile the contact between the pins begin to wear which creates more resistance and you get less performance. Besides that, your 1s batteries won’t last as long either. Just remember that even the p.h.2 connectors made with solid pins have life span of plugins and outs too, I don’t know for sure but I’d say at least double of the rolled pins. For my 1s whoops I’m replacing the p.h.2’s with B.T.2’s made by Betafpv, and my 2s whoops that use the double p.h.2’s, I’m changing over to X.T.30’s. I realize this question was asked 3 years ago, but others can benefit from the reply.
JST red connector does an excellent job of current load, but it is lighter than XT30 by 1 gram. Why not use it? It is well suited to connect, because it is small and I was able to shorten the length of the wire. The length of the wire was only 1 cm! Low energy loss in wires and low weight.
The red JST connector would work, and it should give better results than PH2.0, but I don't think it would be as good as XT30. I think you would sometimes get higher voltage, but when you increase the throttle, the voltage would still sag way down. I don't think you would get the consistency of throttle response that you get with XT30. Drone Lab did some great tests one these connectors, if you're interested.
I based on Dron Lab researches, which say that JST connector has up to 15 A without dramatic voltage way down. JST connector gives possibility to shorten the wire to 1 cm, but XT30 this can't be done. The summary voltage drop in XT30 and JST will be the same due to the length of the connector. Beta 75X: Cotinue current: 6A, Peak current: 10A. Draw the right conclusions. You can connect XT60 and wait for an increase in power copter :). Better yet, change the connection to a Molex 2mm connector, but I cannot purchase it.
What a great video Nate, I was on the fence before watching, but my soldering iron is heating up as I write this. And I hope someday to fly my whoops as awesome as your flying. One question if you don’t mind? On that last part of the video, are you flying a stock tune, or your own tweeking? Either way I’d love to know as after watching this I’m purchasing the same little quad.
Very useful info as usual Thank you very much I will definitely try it on my 65x ,I also have a issue with the motor wire popping out after a couple of flights any fix ? Do you have a similar issue too
My motor plugs are nice and snug, but I have broken the wires before. The wires are pretty delicate, especially where they meet the crimped connectors. Maybe you can make your connector more snug by adding a small piece of tape or floss to add friction. Good luck!
Yeah... people got all up in arms about that. My mistake was presenting the data as "you need this in your life right now" instead of what it was... data. Hopefully I'll be able to post a follow-up to that video soon, so people can still see the data, but in a more open ended way.
@@MrShutterBug I appreciated the post, but disagreed with the summary based on the evidence presented and the testing methods employed. If you test in this manner you'll find far less argument, and significantly increased laud.
Learn so much about your 2S conversation, I thought about doing that when I had a problem with my 1S 75X loosing power in the air every minute. I haven’t done changing them yet and when I’ve seen your video, I thought about asking you if you have a solution for 75X loosing power and I’m not the only one having the same problem , we haven’t found any video for that problem . Appreciate if you can make one. Thanks
Your 75X looses power in flight? You might have bad battery connection, or the battery wire might be breaking away from the flight controller. Do you have the older 75X design where the flight controller and ESCs are on two different boards? If so, you could have a bad connection between those two boards, which are connected by header pins. If you still can't figure it out, then I suggest you post a video of the problem on the "Power Whoop Group" on Facebook. Someone can probably give you more advice there. Good luck!
@@MrShutterBug I check the battery connections and all connecting wires. I made a research and I’m not the only one having the same problem, all are looking for solution but can’t find any video any where. It flies then suddenly after a few seconds/minutes, throttle will started weakening and slowly go down to the ground, if you increase throttle, it goes up again and later same thing. I made a lot of research and all I found was videos of same people looking for solution. That’s why I thought about you to ask. We all just taking the problem bad experience and hoping someone to help. A lot people will appreciate the help. Thank you so much for your response Mr. ShutterBug
Very detailed video showing the differences. Probably the best one out there. Thankyou! I have made the decision to go with the Xt30 on my trashcan :) God bless
How about micro deans?? They weigh quite a bit different and probably pass about the same amount current! Lower weight is king on a whoop!! Also the ph2.0 molex connectors are only good for 30 mating cycles.🤗 cool thanks for the reply and the amp difference is interesting.
Yes, I know some people who use the micro deans, and they love it. The PH2 is rated for 2A, red JST for 3A, and micro deans for 10A. A 2S whoop can definitely pull more than 10A, but I expect you would get much less sag with the micro deans, compared to those others. The XT30 is rated for 30A, of course, which is overkill, but probably performs just a little better. I would love to see a direct comparison. Using micro deans would only save a fraction of a gram, however. Most of the weight of the 2S setup is the battery itself, and also the power lead with 20AWG or 18AWG wire. I mitigate that cost by keeping my power lead really short.
Im buying the BetaFPV 75x next...I got a preorder on the Mobulas 7 as we speak. And the first thing i thought of was changing the pigtail to a xt30 connector on the Mobulas 7. I mentioned this on the Mobulas 7 review on Nick Burns chanel. But i think maybe it may change the flight carristics with the added weight maybe?. But i been building Tiny Whoops and 2.5 & 3inch quads for almost a year. And my experience with the jst 2.0 connector left a lot to be desired. Especially changing 2.0 pigtail on the UAR65 brushless 65mm whoop and it still destroyed and puffed some of the best 1s lipos that money can buy. But never had much problems with sag or current draw with the xt30 connector. So i think its worth the extra money to change over to XT30...much better flight exspirence! Great info video here...thanks for taking the time to get this valuable info out here!
Can you put a thicker wire on the PH2 connectors? Theres many vids where people are putting thicker wires with a solid pin connector and it does so much better and there not only getting more power but they are also getting longer flight times. So why caint you do it with the pH2?
The PH2.0 connectors used in this video did not have solid pins. The best PH2.0 connector is the original one designed and manufactured by JST, not any of the clones (not even clones with solid pins). I buy them from Digikey now. Having a real PH2 does make it better, but amp hungry builds will still experience less voltage sag by using a more powerful connector like XT30, or BT2.0, or GNB27 (the last two of which did not exist at the time of this video). I think the ideal wire size for a good PH2.0 connector is 22AWG. I've tried going larger and I don't think it makes any difference because the PH2.0 still limits it.
Awesome video, thanks. I wonder what using a 2s balance plug only and using 2s batteries with a balance plug. That should keep weight down while possibly using better and less wire with a bigger connector.
An interesting suggestion. Try it! Let us know what you think! There are batteries out there that only have the balance plug, but they are designed for lower discharge applications. You would probably have to get normal batteries and remove the main power lead. The balance plug is a JST-XH connector which would be a step up from the PH2.0 connector but only just. The PH2 is rated for 2A, JST-XH for 3A (same as red JST), and of course the the XT30 is rated for 30A. The 75X pulls about 16A under max load, and I think the 65X can actually pull more. Based on that, I would still expect you to see big dips in voltage when you punch the throttle. Also, if you have a battery powerful enough to output that kind of current (I have several), then there's a chance you might overhead the balance wires. But who knows... one way to find out, right! :-)
Hi! Because I have a shit ton of ph.2.0 batteries and many chargers that can charge them, I considered having a dual connector on my quad (both an xt-30 and a dual ph2.0). It adds the weight of the connector, but by doing this I can use the two types of batteries, and I don't restrict myself to only one of the types. As you can see, the dual ph2.0 connector is really lightweight so not a big issue. However, I haven't done any quantitative tests, what's your opinion on such setup? I haven't seen anyone doing it, is it only because of the extra weight of having two connectors? (+1.5g) or is there any reason that could affect performance by having more leads (in an open circuit) connected to the connector? Thanks!
There's nothing stopping you from putting both connectors on your drone. Only downsides are extra weight and extra bulk. If the extra connector doesn't get in your way and you're OK with the weight, then go for it!
Thanks for the video !!!! Very usefull information here !!! Wire gauge & connector depends on amp, not volts. So, i'm thinking that, maybe, my 75mm 1S brushless (Beta75 like) is limited by the PH2 too. The problem is to find a 1S battery with bigger than PH2 connector to test it....
Yes, the connector could absolutely affect your 1S build. First off, make sure your PH2 connector is the real thing and in good condition. The pins should be made of solid metal, not folded over metal. Almost all Chinese manufacturers are using the cheap imitation ones. It has come to my attention that there is actually a significant difference in performance. Improving your performance might be as easy as replacing the pigtail. A good PH2 connector can produce better results than I showed in this video, but still not as good as with XT30. Unfortunately, I don't think anybody is making 1S batteries with larger connectors, at least not yet. To try it, you would have to modify the battery itself. The next step up would be the JST-XH (like a 2-pin version of the balance plugs used on multi-cell batteries). But that's not what I would do. I would want to stick a micro deans connector on there. It's rated for 10A (vs. 3A for JST-XH and 2A for JST-PH2.0). So many projects... so little time... If you try it, please share your results!
@@MrShutterBug Thanks again !!! I will check this pigtail issue. Of course, i will share my results. Did you see my test of TBS260mAh 1S Graphene ? These are the best batteries i ever seen for PH2.0... Would be great if it existed a version with red jst instead of PH2.0. As you said : So many projects... so little time...
@@dududu7694 I would skip the red JST. It is rated for 3A, which is only 1A more than the PH2. Some people are using the Micro Deans connector, which is rated for 10A and is still really light. So many possibilities...
@@MrShutterBug Yes, XT30 or MicroDeans are better connector, from the current/weight ratio point if view. But also, there are a lot of red JST batteries available today on the market, and only a few XT30... I'm looking forward to see the result of latest 350mAh 2S from BetaFPV, i should be great... Also waiting to see what LDARC GT8 will do. Its seems, from the picture i've seen of its batteries, they choose XH2.54 only I'm curious
@@gonebdg No, XT60 would be totally excessive on a whoop. I think Rotor Ryan meant that he was finding XT60 to be insufficient for his larger quads, just like we are finding PH2 to be insufficient for whoops.
@@MrShutterBug im looking into argon shielded wire with the finest strands i can find or a solid copper bus might have to suffice or a ceramic based capacitive bus. this is for our larger quads of course. hahah better late than never. seeing what you and your friends did to the whoop world, you should give this attention to detail to a super size ducted 7". im amazed with my little 75x great job boys
Rotor Ryan I race 5” with MultiGP but haven’t tried 7” yet. Everyone flies micros in the winter around here because the weather is so gross outside. But I love ‘em all!
Camera tilt is a personal choices. Having an adjustable angle would certainly be nice. I fly inside and do gate racing all the time. For me 35 degrees works pretty well, but I would rather increase it. Maybe 45 is the sweet spot? ;-)
When changing over to an XT30 connector do you use the same mah 2S? If you had two 1s 450mah batteries in your drone currently would you use a 2s 450mah or 900mah battery when you switch to 2s xt30?
Would dielectric grease be a good idea? Just had the brain storming thought but on second thought, may just invite all kinds of dust dirt and hair. Probably better suited for more static connections...
U got my like just for making this video, of course I watched you before and I'm sure of the quality and content of it. Little request... can you make a video on the tinyhawk 2 freestyle? thanks
1:55 Interesting... shows a basic component of the highest importance being ignored by Hobby King who "likes" to sell batteries that come with connectors. Surprised Hobby King management let this opportunity that comes with a need for a new 2S micro battery tech get past HK to be picked up by a small company out of desperation. The balance lead should be short and the main power connection on 2S batterys to reduce wire/connector weight. 30 on/off connections for someone that monitors their batteries is only one short day of flying... 40 min max. I have my timer set at 2:10 and land sooner than that on average using 1S 520-550 mah batteries so short flight times are my main complaint and one reason I like wings so much... and miss my JJ1000's that got over double the flight time FPV using a 25ma L17 AIO with a lighter weight lower C rated 1S 260 mah Nano-Tech showing brushed motors with 55mm props perform well even using older motor phase tech so keep it up BetaFPV... way to go.
I want to get into micro quadcopter , i now fly line of sight with armattan rooster i try Drl smulator but i just cont get my Turnigy to connect to my LabTop .?
What nobody told me is that Throwing an xt30 on your Crazybee f4 (V1, 2, 3) will probably fry your 5v power regulator. It did on two of mine. These 2S and above whoop boards just aint ready for prime time I recon.
Awhile back I upgraded my 2s connectors and 1s connectors to 20awg silicone wire and only the exact lengths I needed on the builds NO slack , most wires I’ve seen are 22-24 or less ! , I’ve been eyeballing the xt30 for a while now and I’ve thought it was over kill at first but I’m beginning to see the benefits so I might have to swap out one of my 2s lipos with an xt30
Were you able to measure any improvement from using 20AWG wire instead of 24AWG? I've been wanting to try that myself (in combination with high quality solid pin connectors).
Mr ShutterBug no it was very noticeable like you said just obviously more power , and the wires don’t get hot like before , but I ordered some xt30s with 16awg so I will see how that goes
@@thelongranger55 Wow, 16AWG is pretty huge! It'll would add quite a bit of weight compared to 18AWG or 20AWG. But let me know how that goes! I have 18AWG on most of my builds, but I keep the leeds really short (like 2cm).
Mr ShutterBug lol I almost bought 14 awg but I couldn’t find 2sets of male and female so I just got this rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183561132402
Mr ShutterBug and that’s a small 2s ! What’s the stock awg wire in that 300 nanotech 2s ? I might buy a few of thoes for my 2s brushed build im currently running 450mah 2s 26grams with 80/160c burst it kicks ass but I would like a lighter battery for acro
that's awesome, like really. I won a 65mm meteor elrs version but i cant fly it because all my quads are digital. but after seeing this video maybe its time for some analog gear.
So I have a question about whoops. I bought US65 last week and I have already broke 2 motors.Today I sold US65 and I am looking for something for indoor flying. What would you recommend ? I am thinking of building whoop with betafpv 65mm frame, batafpv f4 or f3 flight controller (I don't know whitch one is better for the price now F3 27USD, f4 42USD is it worth it?), I have cam from US 65 and for motors some brushed 7x16 17500KV. Will it be ok ?
I really like my 65mm builds with the 7x16mm motors. They are plenty fast, and the motors are more durable than those little brushless motors. I mean, brushed motors do wear out eventually, but they don't break easily, and they are cheap to replace. F3 or F4 can work fine, the F4 is a little better and has some nice features. Is it worth it? Up to you. Good luck!
I've been looking into a similar connector, the GNB27, to replace the connectors on my Mobulus 7. I have a couple of XT-30 connectors from a plane project, but I don't have any 2s batteries small enough. Would this be a good option to substitute my PH 2.0 connectors vs a full on switch to 2S? Is there anything else I should consider?
If you're looking for a connector in between PH2.0 and XT30, then there are a few options. You mentioned the GNB27. There is also the BT2.0 connector made by betafpv. And there is a connector called "Micro Deans". I don't know how they compare exactly but I would expect similar performance from them. I use XT30 on almost all my 2S drones. I do not use XT30 on tiny drones like a 65mm whoop any more because 1S drones in that category have gotten to be so capable. Hope that helps. :-)
I'm having trouble with connectors I got a 1s beta65 but my house is all hard wood floors and it's taking a beating. The connectors are junk tho. What should I do?
I suggest replacing you PH2 connector. The best PH2 connector is the official one by JST, not the clones. You can find that here. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B2B-PH-K-S-LF-SN/455-1704-ND/926611 Or... wait a week or two and see what betafpv is about to announce. 😉
Have you think about changing xt30 for the new connectors bt2.0 and gnb27/et2.0? ( I don’t mean in series as the ph2.0, I mean with no harness straight to the battery leads). Thanks in advance
It depends on the amp load. I have used BT2.0 but not GNB27. I think either would be great for 2S up to about 10A. Above that, I think XT30 still has an advantage.
Please help my confusion. In the example you use, two 1S 300mAh batteries vs one 300 mAh battery. It seems that on the quad both scenarios provide 300 mAh of power. Yet on the charger, I would charge those differently. Assuming 1C charge rate on a parallel charging board, in the first scenario I would charge 2 batteries together at 0.6 amps and in the second I would charge 1 battery at 0.3 amps. Why do the setups appear to behave the same in the quad (300 mAh in both scenarios) but differently on the charger (0.6 amp vs 0.3 amp)?
Power is measured in watts, which is amps times volts. When the voltage is higher, you need less current to deliver the same power. A 300mah 2S batter has the same capacity (watt hours) as a 600mah 1S. Hope that helps. Happy flying!
The issue is the current not the voltage. A PH2 starts to have significantly heat and power loss above 5A. The Mobula7 HD would fly that way but you’ll get a lot of voltage sag if you try to go fast or do acro tricks.
You mentioned at the end you were getting lines in video due to damaged prop; not sure I understand how a damaged prop would be causing it? Maybe too much oscillation causing the connections to be unsecure? Just curious
Good question. As it turns out, I did have a damaged prop, but that was not what caused the lines in the video. The AIO camera/vtx was faulty. But in general, the motors and ESC can produce a lot of electrical noise in the system. That's because the power to the motors is constantly changing, as the flight controller makes adjustments. A damaged prop can add vibration and make the situation worse. Active breaking can even cause power to ripple backwards through the wires, because the motion of the magnets induces a current in the coils. Anyway, if that electrical noise is bad enough, or if the FC has insufficient filtering, then the electrical noise can show up as interference lines in your video. I've had problems with that on larger 4S and 6S quads. The BetaFPV 2S FC has a 5V regulator with some amount of built-in filtering and it works pretty well.
Why not use a XT30 on drone and simply add a short XT30-2xPH2.0 connector at the very end with a bit thicker wires and have the best of both setups in one?
Here are the BetaFPV PH2 pigtails: betafpv.com/collections/accessories/products/2s-whoop-cable-pigtail-jst-ph-2-0 If you want to make your own, here are the official connectors with the solid pins (which may give you better performance): www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B2B-PH-K-S-LF-SN/455-1704-ND/926611
Fr0ntSight sounds like there’s a bad connection. You can solder a new cord to the same pads on the FC, but be careful. The pads on the mobula7 FC are easy to damage.
@@MrShutterBug Much appreciated. I did end up determining it was a bad pigtail. I removed it and turned it into a 1s connector and it worked. Just got the replacements in.
I know this is old but I’m just really getting into it. Curious is it worth putting an xt30 on the small factory wires? I know you said it’s best to change the wires but I don’t trust my soldering yet for those tiny pads lol
In general, I recommend 1S for indoors. I don't fly 2S indoors very often unless we are having a 2S whoop race. In that case, we would have a large indoor space like a warehouse, and I would fly a ShutterBug85 for something like that.
thank you very much!!! is it possible to use both 2xPH2 and the XT30 connector, so you can decide which one you use or do you think its too heavy? too difficult to solder? too many loose parts during the flight? thanks again!
I suggest you pick just one. If you want XT30, go XT30 all the way. If you want 2xPH2, then make the whole build as light as possible. That's my advice.
Thanks so much for this video bro. This is exactly the kind of things I wanna upgrade on my 65x. Just F.Y.I., I bought the meteor65 brushless whoop frame as a replacement for my 65x frame and it did not fit. I shaved a few parts down with my dremel and that solved it. I’m soldering on some xt30 connections and think I have a pretty good idea how I’m going to mount my 2s 300mah battery. Anyone in a similar position?
KiKi-Cro because it’s not that much lighter and I believe it would still sag significantly under high throttle. PH2 is rated for 2A, red JST for 3A, and XT30 for 30A.
It’s one of the rare case where heavier is actually better :) Have we reached the apex of the performance/weight ratio? Is there any standard relationship one could draw by looking at 1S brushless vs. 2S whoops?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by the apex of performance. That's kind of subjective and depends on the size of your space and your flying style. If you're looking for maximum sustained speed and longer flight times, then the larger batteries can definitely give you that. For example, the GNB 450mAh 80-160C Long battery is insanely powerful on a 75X!
Solid pin is much better than folded. Also, the quality and condition of the PH2 connector matter. Some connectors get loose or they get corroded. The best PH2 connector is the original one that is manufactured by JST. You can get them from Digikey or Mouser.
Hey, if I wanted to make my own pigtail connector, should I use 20awg or 18awg wire? I plan to replace the battery wire as well, but not sure if 18awg is an overkill or not. Also some people use red jst-rcy connector for their 2s setup. Could you compare the performance of this connector with xt30? Thanks for this very informative video!
I don't think there is much difference between 20awg and 18awg, especially if you keep the pigtail short like I do. If your batteries have 20awg wire, then I would probably stick with that. I have several batteries with 18awg wire and some of them are really powerful, so I chose to use 18awg wire on the drone as well. I would NOT use the red JST connector at all. It is only rated for 3A and will cause voltage sag on high throttle. Here are some videos I highly recommend: XT30 - ruclips.net/video/bkVsqDOSqIY/видео.html Silicone Wire - ruclips.net/video/IDnPX6QPbu4/видео.html
Steve Panebianco Micro Deans can work well. I know people who do that for 2S. It’s rated for 10A. But it’s not that much lighter than xt30. Most of the weight of 2S is in the battery itself. What I want to try is modding some 1S batteries so I can try 2x1S with micro deans. 😉
Since i want to fly 1s in the house, I'm thinking of running an XT30 for 2s and have a separate single PH2.0 connector for 1s. The weight difference should be slight, and I get the best of both worlds. Thoughts?
Sir I could be mistaken, but isn't two 300 mah batteries in a series equal to 600 mah?? Then you have a 300mah 2s but you say they are the same mah rating. How does this make sense man?
i'm a bit confused as i am a noob. if i want to change the connection to a xt30 to use a 2s for performance does that mean i could no longer use a 1s for indoor ? any help is much appreciated :)
U could still solder a 1s to a xt30. But alot of the time it's better to 50% throttle on 2s. I have my throttle hooked to a knob that I can activate by a switch
From my Beta 75 Pro I made the experience that the PH2 connector is also very sensitive to oxydated or corroded contact pins. I experienced a hot connector after flight and reduced flight time and performance as well. It helped a bit, cleaning the pins with a glass fibre brush and applying anti-corrosion spray such as Kontakt 60 after any few flights. When looking at the pins used by BetaFPV, these are just folded from metal sheet. There are other PH2 connectors available with massive pins which should handle higher current much better and be less sensitive to corrosion. So BetaFPV should also consider changing their connector supplier. Just take a look at my Beta 75 Pro plug after 6 months of usage and repeated cleaning:: www.dropbox.com/s/cp4abljqd5jwonk/Beta75Pro.jpg?dl=0 And here is a better plug I have found on ebay (for soldering instead of crimping) to compare with: www.dropbox.com/s/z1859r7p2tbcdei/Excellway.jpg?dl=0 I will now exchange my original plug with this one. Same problems will apply for sure to Beta 65X ann Beta 75X with two-plug-solution.
You make an excellent point about the quality of the PH2 connectors used. As it turns out, the BetaFPV connectors are a cheap knock off. The official JST-PH2.0 connector has those solid pins. Unfortunately, it appears that almost all of the Chinese drone manufacturers are using the cheap folded ones. It's not just BetaFPV. I believe that the better connector would in fact give you better performance, and maybe better longevity. I'll probably post a follow-up to this video to show some data on that.
@@allanmuchmore5616 digikey sells the official ones, but you would have to solder up your own pigtail connector. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B2B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN)/455-1704-ND/926611 I'm sure you can buy pigtails already made, but I can't confirm which ones are good or bad. Just look for the solid pins. Some of those connectors have the downside that the pins come loose and push out the back. If that happens, I suggest adding glue on the back side of the connector. Good luck!
Hi @Mr Shutterbug, sorry for the late reply as RUclips didn't show me your answer in time, but yes, using the pictures is ok. Btw. it is no problem just cutting the original connector off and soldering the original cables to the new connector. Although I have meanwhile replaced the original cables by cables with a bit thicker core, too. I have just protected the whole new connector by heat shrinking tube like this: www.dropbox.com/s/0al5b1l5fj1o7fk/NewAssembly.jpg?dl=0 Meanwhile I have lots of flights with the new assembly and voltage stability during flight as well as power reserves are significantly better, even better than with the maiden flight of a new Beta 75 Pro. I have not seen any traces of corrosion on the contacts yet, but am regularly putting some Kontakt 60 spray onto them. In summary this retrofit is a MUST for any brushless whoop with these low-quality folded PH2 pins.
20AWG is good but the Mobula7 FC has tiny solder pads. It is tricky to attach the larger wire and some people have damaged the FC while attempting it. So be careful.
I've been digging around for ages trying to get answer to why i should convert from my 2xph2.0 to an XT30 for a trashcan. Thank you! I can see from your graphs that the XT30 looked to get about 14% more flight time (20 seconds on top of 2:20). Would you say that is accurate?
That's honestly a night-and-day difference. With the 1S batteries, it felt like you were struggling to keep airborne after dive maneuvers, but with the XT30 it felt like a larger Toothpick-sized drone. Imagine your OSD actually giving you an accurate voltage reading.
You can charge them in parallel even they have total different capacity, the only thing that matters - is to be the same S rating, 1S with 1S, 2S with 2S and so on... And one more thing! They have to be at a close charge level - about 0.1V/per cell difference is admitted (but even 0.2V difference doesn't feel to be a problem)
Hi i just got my mobula 7 lastweek and i want to get the best performance of it what upgrade should i do? please recommend some batteries xt30 or ph 2.0 solid pins? and also please test the GNB 300mah 1s lihv and compare it to the 260 if there is a big difference..
Angel Adriann the batteries that come with the Mobula are pretty good. I also really like the GNB 260mAh HV 1S batteries. If you switch to xt30 you will have better performance at high speed but it will make the drone heavier. In general I think 2x1S is good for indoors and small yards and xt30 is good for flying faster in larger areas. Good luck.
2 minutes? That's short unless you're on full throttle the whole time. I usually get at least 3 minutes. More if I fly gentle (which I usually don't). Maybe the batteries?
I'd recommend using a capacitor in parallel is you do any xt30 upgrades.
I blew up my Crazybee flight controller in my Eachine Trashcan as the pigtails Eachine supplied with the Whoop, had no capacitor installed.
I ordered the Happymodel New Crazybee F4 PRO V3.0 Flight Controller which will take the slow-ship from China so I should be able to fly around this time in 2024.
Crazy enough the V2 model of the AIO board comes with XT30 connector (optional) so I expect it to work fine without a capacitator
Thank you so much, You exactly named my considerations and gave an answer! I'm in the very beginning steps and was thinking about what batteries I should stick to for Meteor 85. Charging of batteries is a real hidden catch for beginners I guess. I have had some understanding of charging multiple channels in parallel and serial so my questions led exactly to gauge bottleneck. I am happy to find your video before I did invest in 1S bunch.
I learned something today! :) Thanks for the great info.
bardwell quotes haha🤣
Thanks for the awesome information! I figured that is what the different connectors would do but its nice to see some actual DATA.
Wow, very valuable info. It also looks like the flight time on the XT30 connectors is noticeably longer.
I did end up doing the mod. Thanks.
Did the flight time increase with the xt30 connector?
@@armandor.calderong.9135 can’t say that it did but the performance was much better! The battery no longer sags immediately. It holds well until the end where it dives down a bunch. Majority of the flight is vastly improved though. I’d recommend it if you don’t mind ditching or converting your ph2.0 batteries or buying new xt30 ones.
I replaced these crimp-style ph2.0 with the full pin ones and thicker wires and it was an amazing change.
It would suggest to build an 2x PH2.0 to xt30 for the users of 1s
Hello. Which full pins? Thanks :)
Excellent video. I've been changing out all of my 2s quads to xt30 with 18 gauge wire including all my emax tinyhawk 2 and you said it best...a firehouse of power! 😆
This is really cool. I am building a 2s-4s 3 inch quad but I only have 1s batteries that came with my tinyhawks. I thought I would have to get a new charger and 2s, 3s, or 4s batteries before I could even see if the thing flies. I know it won't have much power and probably won't last long, but it's cool to know that I can check it out and actually get it in the air with my current 1s batteries. Luckily I bought several ph 2.0 male and female connectors and several xt30 connectors a while back. So I have everything to make this connector.
I still like XT30 on my 1S tinyhawk S hey.
I run duel XT30 set up to use the 1S batteries for my TH freestyle and race. Extra weight is negated by the fact the batteries just don't sag and feels like you can just hot it wide open
Very useful....I appreciate your study on 1s and 2s, I hadn't considered upgraded to a real 2s whoop battery till this video!
This is quite surprising because it's so drastic. It's hard to even guess what's going on. Could the PH2 connectors just be getting so hot that whole amps of current are being lost to heat? I just put an XT30 on one of my micros with large props and am getting a day and night difference in speed, punch and consistency. Quite shocking. My AUW maximum load can be increased to 75g now even from a previous 65g.
Yeah, it can be pretty dramatic. The amount of voltage drop can definitely exceed what you would normally calculate based on the specifications of the wires, connectors, and batteries. Sometimes those folded pin PH2 connectors don't make a great connection, which exaggerates the problem. I've had better luck with the solid-pin PH2 connectors made by JST, but they have their limits too. I think you're right about the heat, and high heat also increases the resistance.
On my tiny 8x with powerfull brushed motors, when I use HV batts I get burned (chared) ph2 connectors in like every 6 flights, I switched to non HV batts and all is ok now. was thinking of putting redJST connectors on it.
Great comparison! Thank you!
I've a question about the PH2 plug. Why is this plug getting "old" while using? What is changing so the voltage drop is getting even worse?
After 30-40 flights now I get so much voltage drop I cant fly for 5sec without voltage warning. Tried some new batteries but the problem still exists.
2 weeks ago I had no problems and a flight time from 1:30 to 2:00 minutes. Or may I be caused by something different?
It probably is, im regretting that i didnt add an xt30 plug when i ordered my whoop 2 weeks ago,...........
It’s because a lot of the cheaper p.h.2 connectors have pins that are made of thin rolled metal, so after awhile the contact between the pins begin to wear which creates more resistance and you get less performance. Besides that, your 1s batteries won’t last as long either. Just remember that even the p.h.2 connectors made with solid pins have life span of plugins and outs too, I don’t know for sure but I’d say at least double of the rolled pins. For my 1s whoops I’m replacing the p.h.2’s with B.T.2’s made by Betafpv, and my 2s whoops that use the double p.h.2’s, I’m changing over to X.T.30’s. I realize this question was asked 3 years ago, but others can benefit from the reply.
JST red connector does an excellent job of current load, but it is lighter than XT30 by 1 gram. Why not use it? It is well suited to connect, because it is small and I was able to shorten the length of the wire. The length of the wire was only 1 cm! Low energy loss in wires and low weight.
The red JST connector would work, and it should give better results than PH2.0, but I don't think it would be as good as XT30. I think you would sometimes get higher voltage, but when you increase the throttle, the voltage would still sag way down. I don't think you would get the consistency of throttle response that you get with XT30. Drone Lab did some great tests one these connectors, if you're interested.
I based on Dron Lab researches, which say that JST connector has up to 15 A without dramatic voltage way down. JST connector gives possibility to shorten the wire to 1 cm, but XT30 this can't be done. The summary voltage drop in XT30 and JST will be the same due to the length of the connector. Beta 75X: Cotinue current: 6A, Peak current: 10A. Draw the right conclusions. You can connect XT60 and wait for an increase in power copter :). Better yet, change the connection to a Molex 2mm connector, but I cannot purchase it.
What a great video Nate, I was on the fence before watching, but my soldering iron is heating up as I write this. And I hope someday to fly my whoops as awesome as your flying. One question if you don’t mind? On that last part of the video, are you flying a stock tune, or your own tweeking? Either way I’d love to know as after watching this I’m purchasing the same little quad.
It has been a while, but I don’t remember tuning that one. I was probably flying the tune that BetaFPV sets up on the drone.
@@MrShutterBug o.k., great to know Mr. Shutterbug, thanks for the reply 👍
Very useful info as usual Thank you very much I will definitely try it on my 65x ,I also have a issue with the motor wire popping out after a couple of flights any fix ? Do you have a similar issue too
My motor plugs are nice and snug, but I have broken the wires before. The wires are pretty delicate, especially where they meet the crimped connectors. Maybe you can make your connector more snug by adding a small piece of tape or floss to add friction. Good luck!
Thanks will definitely try it out 😁
Anyway to solder the wire back to the motors as they are so tiny and break so easily
Top video thanks! Not sure how I missed this a few weeks back when setting up my first 2s 😂
This is a much more convincing video than the wire one that you got blown up for in the TW group. Great job, dude.
Yeah... people got all up in arms about that. My mistake was presenting the data as "you need this in your life right now" instead of what it was... data. Hopefully I'll be able to post a follow-up to that video soon, so people can still see the data, but in a more open ended way.
@@MrShutterBug I appreciated the post, but disagreed with the summary based on the evidence presented and the testing methods employed. If you test in this manner you'll find far less argument, and significantly increased laud.
What a difference. Understand they assume people would want to use there whoop batteries but performance wins over convenience here.
Learn so much about your 2S conversation, I thought about doing that when I had a problem with my 1S 75X loosing power in the air every minute. I haven’t done changing them yet and when I’ve seen your video, I thought about asking you if you have a solution for 75X loosing power and I’m not the only one having the same problem , we haven’t found any video for that problem . Appreciate if you can make one. Thanks
Your 75X looses power in flight? You might have bad battery connection, or the battery wire might be breaking away from the flight controller. Do you have the older 75X design where the flight controller and ESCs are on two different boards? If so, you could have a bad connection between those two boards, which are connected by header pins. If you still can't figure it out, then I suggest you post a video of the problem on the "Power Whoop Group" on Facebook. Someone can probably give you more advice there. Good luck!
@@MrShutterBug I check the battery connections and all connecting wires. I made a research and I’m not the only one having the same problem, all are looking for solution but can’t find any video any where. It flies then suddenly after a few seconds/minutes, throttle will started weakening and slowly go down to the ground, if you increase throttle, it goes up again and later same thing. I made a lot of research and all I found was videos of same people looking for solution. That’s why I thought about you to ask. We all just taking the problem bad experience and hoping someone to help. A lot people will appreciate the help. Thank you so much for your response Mr. ShutterBug
Nice video, great info, love the visual graphs for comparison.
Very detailed video showing the differences. Probably the best one out there. Thankyou! I have made the decision to go with the Xt30 on my trashcan :) God bless
How about micro deans?? They weigh quite a bit different and probably pass about the same amount current! Lower weight is king on a whoop!! Also the ph2.0 molex connectors are only good for 30 mating cycles.🤗 cool thanks for the reply and the amp difference is interesting.
ace trex yes! Micro Deans needs to be resurrected right about now. I still have a handful of them
Yes, I know some people who use the micro deans, and they love it. The PH2 is rated for 2A, red JST for 3A, and micro deans for 10A. A 2S whoop can definitely pull more than 10A, but I expect you would get much less sag with the micro deans, compared to those others. The XT30 is rated for 30A, of course, which is overkill, but probably performs just a little better. I would love to see a direct comparison. Using micro deans would only save a fraction of a gram, however. Most of the weight of the 2S setup is the battery itself, and also the power lead with 20AWG or 18AWG wire. I mitigate that cost by keeping my power lead really short.
Im buying the BetaFPV 75x next...I got a preorder on the Mobulas 7 as we speak. And the first thing i thought of was changing the pigtail to a xt30 connector on the Mobulas 7. I mentioned this on the Mobulas 7 review on Nick Burns chanel. But i think maybe it may change the flight carristics with the added weight maybe?. But i been building Tiny Whoops and 2.5 & 3inch quads for almost a year. And my experience with the jst 2.0 connector left a lot to be desired. Especially changing 2.0 pigtail on the UAR65 brushless 65mm whoop and it still destroyed and puffed some of the best 1s lipos that money can buy. But never had much problems with sag or current draw with the xt30 connector. So i think its worth the extra money to change over to XT30...much better flight exspirence! Great info video here...thanks for taking the time to get this valuable info out here!
I don't have a Mobula7 yet, but I'm told one is on the way. I'll try it as is first, but I plan to put an XT30 on it after that.
Mr ShutterBug Yeah thats pretty much my plan as well. Im curious to know your thoughts on the quad once you have spent a few weeks with it.😊
@@MrShutterBug Would love to see a comparison between the jst 2.0 and the xt30 connector on a Mobula 7!
Could you repeat the test comparing xt30 vs 2 bt2.0 in series??
xt30 wins from what I have tested
Thank you for sharing this information. I will be converting to xt30s for sure 👍😎🇦🇺
Can you put a thicker wire on the PH2 connectors? Theres many vids where people are putting thicker wires with a solid pin connector and it does so much better and there not only getting more power but they are also getting longer flight times. So why caint you do it with the pH2?
The PH2.0 connectors used in this video did not have solid pins. The best PH2.0 connector is the original one designed and manufactured by JST, not any of the clones (not even clones with solid pins). I buy them from Digikey now. Having a real PH2 does make it better, but amp hungry builds will still experience less voltage sag by using a more powerful connector like XT30, or BT2.0, or GNB27 (the last two of which did not exist at the time of this video). I think the ideal wire size for a good PH2.0 connector is 22AWG. I've tried going larger and I don't think it makes any difference because the PH2.0 still limits it.
Awesome video, thanks. I wonder what using a 2s balance plug only and using 2s batteries with a balance plug. That should keep weight down while possibly using better and less wire with a bigger connector.
An interesting suggestion. Try it! Let us know what you think! There are batteries out there that only have the balance plug, but they are designed for lower discharge applications. You would probably have to get normal batteries and remove the main power lead. The balance plug is a JST-XH connector which would be a step up from the PH2.0 connector but only just. The PH2 is rated for 2A, JST-XH for 3A (same as red JST), and of course the the XT30 is rated for 30A. The 75X pulls about 16A under max load, and I think the 65X can actually pull more. Based on that, I would still expect you to see big dips in voltage when you punch the throttle. Also, if you have a battery powerful enough to output that kind of current (I have several), then there's a chance you might overhead the balance wires. But who knows... one way to find out, right! :-)
Great, thanks for the info. Just curious are you in the Jackson NJ area? That park looks very firmilar.
TWITCH FPV nope. Seattle area.
Hi! Because I have a shit ton of ph.2.0 batteries and many chargers that can charge them, I considered having a dual connector on my quad (both an xt-30 and a dual ph2.0).
It adds the weight of the connector, but by doing this I can use the two types of batteries, and I don't restrict myself to only one of the types. As you can see, the dual ph2.0 connector is really lightweight so not a big issue.
However, I haven't done any quantitative tests, what's your opinion on such setup? I haven't seen anyone doing it, is it only because of the extra weight of having two connectors? (+1.5g) or is there any reason that could affect performance by having more leads (in an open circuit) connected to the connector? Thanks!
There's nothing stopping you from putting both connectors on your drone. Only downsides are extra weight and extra bulk. If the extra connector doesn't get in your way and you're OK with the weight, then go for it!
Thanks for the video !!!! Very usefull information here !!!
Wire gauge & connector depends on amp, not volts. So, i'm thinking that, maybe, my 75mm 1S brushless (Beta75 like) is limited by the PH2 too. The problem is to find a 1S battery with bigger than PH2 connector to test it....
Yes, the connector could absolutely affect your 1S build. First off, make sure your PH2 connector is the real thing and in good condition. The pins should be made of solid metal, not folded over metal. Almost all Chinese manufacturers are using the cheap imitation ones. It has come to my attention that there is actually a significant difference in performance. Improving your performance might be as easy as replacing the pigtail. A good PH2 connector can produce better results than I showed in this video, but still not as good as with XT30.
Unfortunately, I don't think anybody is making 1S batteries with larger connectors, at least not yet. To try it, you would have to modify the battery itself. The next step up would be the JST-XH (like a 2-pin version of the balance plugs used on multi-cell batteries). But that's not what I would do. I would want to stick a micro deans connector on there. It's rated for 10A (vs. 3A for JST-XH and 2A for JST-PH2.0).
So many projects... so little time... If you try it, please share your results!
@@MrShutterBug Thanks again !!! I will check this pigtail issue.
Of course, i will share my results.
Did you see my test of TBS260mAh 1S Graphene ? These are the best batteries i ever seen for PH2.0... Would be great if it existed a version with red jst instead of PH2.0.
As you said : So many projects... so little time...
@@dududu7694 I would skip the red JST. It is rated for 3A, which is only 1A more than the PH2. Some people are using the Micro Deans connector, which is rated for 10A and is still really light. So many possibilities...
@@MrShutterBug Yes, XT30 or MicroDeans are better connector, from the current/weight ratio point if view.
But also, there are a lot of red JST batteries available today on the market, and only a few XT30...
I'm looking forward to see the result of latest 350mAh 2S from BetaFPV, i should be great...
Also waiting to see what LDARC GT8 will do. Its seems, from the picture i've seen of its batteries, they choose XH2.54 only
I'm curious
Very nice test. I recently found the xt60 doesn't provide enough Amperage. I was trying to design a small 100 or 200 Amp connector...
Nice! What gauge wire would you use with that?
XT60 on whoop ?
@@gonebdg No, XT60 would be totally excessive on a whoop. I think Rotor Ryan meant that he was finding XT60 to be insufficient for his larger quads, just like we are finding PH2 to be insufficient for whoops.
@@MrShutterBug im looking into argon shielded wire with the finest strands i can find or a solid copper bus might have to suffice or a ceramic based capacitive bus. this is for our larger quads of course. hahah better late than never. seeing what you and your friends did to the whoop world, you should give this attention to detail to a super size ducted 7". im amazed with my little 75x great job boys
Rotor Ryan I race 5” with MultiGP but haven’t tried 7” yet. Everyone flies micros in the winter around here because the weather is so gross outside. But I love ‘em all!
Great vid, I converted my mobula 7 to a old red jst, because i have a bunch of those batteries,.A 450 tatue is giving me 4 min inside.
Was hoping for indoor gates flying, and upon receiving today realized it's undoable with this camera tilt... now looking forward for my mobula7
Camera tilt is a personal choices. Having an adjustable angle would certainly be nice. I fly inside and do gate racing all the time. For me 35 degrees works pretty well, but I would rather increase it. Maybe 45 is the sweet spot? ;-)
Thank you for the good data. It will make my builds better.
Thank you for the video!
I'm pretty new to whoops and just ordered an Eachine trashcan and was curious about which was superior.
Great video!
Fantastic video. Thank you for the clear, objective information!
Great video comparison!
When changing over to an XT30 connector do you use the same mah 2S?
If you had two 1s 450mah batteries in your drone currently would you use a 2s 450mah or 900mah battery when you switch to 2s xt30?
Would dielectric grease be a good idea? Just had the brain storming thought but on second thought, may just invite all kinds of dust dirt and hair. Probably better suited for more static connections...
Hmm... Grease sounds messy. I would say, just make sure you have solid pins that are free of corrosion.
U got my like just for making this video, of course I watched you before and I'm sure of the quality and content of it.
Little request... can you make a video on the tinyhawk 2 freestyle?
thanks
1:55 Interesting... shows a basic component of the highest importance being ignored by Hobby King who "likes" to sell batteries that come with connectors. Surprised Hobby King management let this opportunity that comes with a need for a new 2S micro battery tech get past HK to be picked up by a small company out of desperation. The balance lead should be short and the main power connection on 2S batterys to reduce wire/connector weight. 30 on/off connections for someone that monitors their batteries is only one short day of flying... 40 min max. I have my timer set at 2:10 and land sooner than that on average using 1S 520-550 mah batteries so short flight times are my main complaint and one reason I like wings so much... and miss my JJ1000's that got over double the flight time FPV using a 25ma L17 AIO with a lighter weight lower C rated 1S 260 mah Nano-Tech showing brushed motors with 55mm props perform well even using older motor phase tech so keep it up BetaFPV... way to go.
I want to get into micro quadcopter , i now fly line of sight with armattan rooster i try Drl smulator but i just cont get my Turnigy to connect to my LabTop .?
What nobody told me is that Throwing an xt30 on your Crazybee f4 (V1, 2, 3) will probably fry your 5v power regulator. It did on two of mine. These 2S and above whoop boards just aint ready for prime time I recon.
Fried my trashcan immediately too.
Awhile back I upgraded my 2s connectors and 1s connectors to 20awg silicone wire and only the exact lengths I needed on the builds NO slack , most wires I’ve seen are 22-24 or less ! , I’ve been eyeballing the xt30 for a while now and I’ve thought it was over kill at first but I’m beginning to see the benefits so I might have to swap out one of my 2s lipos with an xt30
Were you able to measure any improvement from using 20AWG wire instead of 24AWG? I've been wanting to try that myself (in combination with high quality solid pin connectors).
Mr ShutterBug no it was very noticeable like you said just obviously more power , and the wires don’t get hot like before , but I ordered some xt30s with 16awg so I will see how that goes
@@thelongranger55 Wow, 16AWG is pretty huge! It'll would add quite a bit of weight compared to 18AWG or 20AWG. But let me know how that goes! I have 18AWG on most of my builds, but I keep the leeds really short (like 2cm).
Mr ShutterBug lol I almost bought 14 awg but I couldn’t find 2sets of male and female so I just got this rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183561132402
Mr ShutterBug and that’s a small 2s ! What’s the stock awg wire in that 300 nanotech 2s ? I might buy a few of thoes for my 2s brushed build im currently running 450mah 2s 26grams with 80/160c burst it kicks ass but I would like a lighter battery for acro
that's awesome, like really. I won a 65mm meteor elrs version but i cant fly it because all my quads are digital. but after seeing this video maybe its time for some analog gear.
Based on this info I’m shocked these companies don’t offer this option for xt30
So I have a question about whoops. I bought US65 last week and I have already broke 2 motors.Today I sold US65 and I am looking for something for indoor flying. What would you recommend ? I am thinking of building whoop with betafpv 65mm frame, batafpv f4 or f3 flight controller (I don't know whitch one is better for the price now F3 27USD, f4 42USD is it worth it?), I have cam from US 65 and for motors some brushed 7x16 17500KV. Will it be ok ?
I really like my 65mm builds with the 7x16mm motors. They are plenty fast, and the motors are more durable than those little brushless motors. I mean, brushed motors do wear out eventually, but they don't break easily, and they are cheap to replace. F3 or F4 can work fine, the F4 is a little better and has some nice features. Is it worth it? Up to you. Good luck!
Thanks :)
Amazing! Did your motors get hot with this mod?
Not really, but the kv is high for 2S. Lower kv motors would be more efficient.
What is that battery strap your using for the whoops I'm searching high and low fir it. Is it like a cable organiser tie thing? Help!
They are called "velcro cable ties". I think this is equivalent to what I have: a.co/d/9JubXmm
I guess some of the extra weight comes from the balance plug and the power leads to them in the 2s battery?
Correct. That's why I like my balance wires to be as short as possible.
Great informative video! Thanks for posting!
I've been looking into a similar connector, the GNB27, to replace the connectors on my Mobulus 7. I have a couple of XT-30 connectors from a plane project, but I don't have any 2s batteries small enough. Would this be a good option to substitute my PH 2.0 connectors vs a full on switch to 2S? Is there anything else I should consider?
If you're looking for a connector in between PH2.0 and XT30, then there are a few options. You mentioned the GNB27. There is also the BT2.0 connector made by betafpv. And there is a connector called "Micro Deans". I don't know how they compare exactly but I would expect similar performance from them. I use XT30 on almost all my 2S drones. I do not use XT30 on tiny drones like a 65mm whoop any more because 1S drones in that category have gotten to be so capable. Hope that helps. :-)
You mentioned how many times you can plug/unplug with the jst ph2.0 connector. Do you have the info for the XT30 connector?
I do not have that data, but xt30 is way more durable.
Thanks for explain. Before this beta65pro i keep use jst ph2.0 with 20awg, aslo get less voltage sag.
I'm having trouble with connectors I got a 1s beta65 but my house is all hard wood floors and it's taking a beating. The connectors are junk tho. What should I do?
I suggest replacing you PH2 connector. The best PH2 connector is the official one by JST, not the clones. You can find that here.
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B2B-PH-K-S-LF-SN/455-1704-ND/926611
Or... wait a week or two and see what betafpv is about to announce. 😉
Have you think about changing xt30 for the new connectors bt2.0 and gnb27/et2.0? ( I don’t mean in series as the ph2.0, I mean with no harness straight to the battery leads). Thanks in advance
It depends on the amp load. I have used BT2.0 but not GNB27. I think either would be great for 2S up to about 10A. Above that, I think XT30 still has an advantage.
Please help my confusion. In the example you use, two 1S 300mAh batteries vs one 300 mAh battery. It seems that on the quad both scenarios provide 300 mAh of power. Yet on the charger, I would charge those differently. Assuming 1C charge rate on a parallel charging board, in the first scenario I would charge 2 batteries together at 0.6 amps and in the second I would charge 1 battery at 0.3 amps. Why do the setups appear to behave the same in the quad (300 mAh in both scenarios) but differently on the charger (0.6 amp vs 0.3 amp)?
Power is measured in watts, which is amps times volts. When the voltage is higher, you need less current to deliver the same power. A 300mah 2S batter has the same capacity (watt hours) as a 600mah 1S. Hope that helps. Happy flying!
What do you think about a 7.6v battery with PH2 connector? I ask why I wanted to use a Mobula 7 HD. It supports 2S and 3S. 9000kv engine. Thanks.
The issue is the current not the voltage. A PH2 starts to have significantly heat and power loss above 5A. The Mobula7 HD would fly that way but you’ll get a lot of voltage sag if you try to go fast or do acro tricks.
You mentioned at the end you were getting lines in video due to damaged prop; not sure I understand how a damaged prop would be causing it? Maybe too much oscillation causing the connections to be unsecure? Just curious
Good question. As it turns out, I did have a damaged prop, but that was not what caused the lines in the video. The AIO camera/vtx was faulty. But in general, the motors and ESC can produce a lot of electrical noise in the system. That's because the power to the motors is constantly changing, as the flight controller makes adjustments. A damaged prop can add vibration and make the situation worse. Active breaking can even cause power to ripple backwards through the wires, because the motion of the magnets induces a current in the coils. Anyway, if that electrical noise is bad enough, or if the FC has insufficient filtering, then the electrical noise can show up as interference lines in your video. I've had problems with that on larger 4S and 6S quads. The BetaFPV 2S FC has a 5V regulator with some amount of built-in filtering and it works pretty well.
Why not use a XT30 on drone and simply add a short XT30-2xPH2.0 connector at the very end with a bit thicker wires and have the best of both setups in one?
Go for it! It won’t be the lightest thing, but you’d have the flexibility.
Great vid. Do u have a link for the ph2 connectors?
Here are the BetaFPV PH2 pigtails:
betafpv.com/collections/accessories/products/2s-whoop-cable-pigtail-jst-ph-2-0
If you want to make your own, here are the official connectors with the solid pins (which may give you better performance):
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B2B-PH-K-S-LF-SN/455-1704-ND/926611
What's the reason connectors have a 'lifetime'? Does it get less conductive?
They get weakened so they don’t fit as tightly. Also the cheap imitation PH2 connectors get corroded pretty easily.
how do you replace the mobula 7 power cables? my quad shuts off whenever the cables are touched :'(
Fr0ntSight sounds like there’s a bad connection. You can solder a new cord to the same pads on the FC, but be careful. The pads on the mobula7 FC are easy to damage.
@@MrShutterBug Much appreciated. I did end up determining it was a bad pigtail. I removed it and turned it into a 1s connector and it worked. Just got the replacements in.
I know this is old but I’m just really getting into it. Curious is it worth putting an xt30 on the small factory wires? I know you said it’s best to change the wires but I don’t trust my soldering yet for those tiny pads lol
nice info. but for use indoor is it ok the xt30 2S setup or it is too much? thanks🤙
In general, I recommend 1S for indoors. I don't fly 2S indoors very often unless we are having a 2S whoop race. In that case, we would have a large indoor space like a warehouse, and I would fly a ShutterBug85 for something like that.
Good day to you Mr ShutterBug and how are you to day you make whoop quadcopter look fun for me thanks
why not use the balance lead for 2s packs? for a whoop it should deliver plenty of amperage.
thank you very much!!!
is it possible to use both 2xPH2 and the XT30 connector, so you can decide which one you use or do you think its too heavy? too difficult to solder? too many loose parts during the flight?
thanks again!
I suggest you pick just one. If you want XT30, go XT30 all the way. If you want 2xPH2, then make the whole build as light as possible. That's my advice.
@@MrShutterBug how about with the xt30 to 2xph2 using xt30 male socket as a extender
excellent review, Learn a lot from you. thanks.
Thanks so much for this video bro. This is exactly the kind of things I wanna upgrade on my 65x. Just F.Y.I., I bought the meteor65 brushless whoop frame as a replacement for my 65x frame and it did not fit. I shaved a few parts down with my dremel and that solved it. I’m soldering on some xt30 connections and think I have a pretty good idea how I’m going to mount my 2s 300mah battery. Anyone in a similar position?
Why didnt you put lighter red JST connector? Its also way easyer to install
KiKi-Cro because it’s not that much lighter and I believe it would still sag significantly under high throttle. PH2 is rated for 2A, red JST for 3A, and XT30 for 30A.
@@MrShutterBug I would do the same, if I didnt buy a bag of red jsts a month ago, you made xt30 connectors by yourself?
KiKi-Cro I cut off the red JST connectors and solder on XT30U. I do it one wire at a time so they can’t short.
It’s one of the rare case where heavier is actually better :)
Have we reached the apex of the performance/weight ratio? Is there any standard relationship one could draw by looking at 1S brushless vs. 2S whoops?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by the apex of performance. That's kind of subjective and depends on the size of your space and your flying style. If you're looking for maximum sustained speed and longer flight times, then the larger batteries can definitely give you that. For example, the GNB 450mAh 80-160C Long battery is insanely powerful on a 75X!
@@MrShutterBug What would be the best battery for my mobula7 flighttime increase?
How much difference does having a solid pin ph2 vs the folded pins?
Solid pin is much better than folded. Also, the quality and condition of the PH2 connector matter. Some connectors get loose or they get corroded. The best PH2 connector is the original one that is manufactured by JST. You can get them from Digikey or Mouser.
Hey, if I wanted to make my own pigtail connector, should I use 20awg or 18awg wire? I plan to replace the battery wire as well, but not sure if 18awg is an overkill or not. Also some people use red jst-rcy connector for their 2s setup. Could you compare the performance of this connector with xt30? Thanks for this very informative video!
I don't think there is much difference between 20awg and 18awg, especially if you keep the pigtail short like I do. If your batteries have 20awg wire, then I would probably stick with that. I have several batteries with 18awg wire and some of them are really powerful, so I chose to use 18awg wire on the drone as well. I would NOT use the red JST connector at all. It is only rated for 3A and will cause voltage sag on high throttle. Here are some videos I highly recommend:
XT30 - ruclips.net/video/bkVsqDOSqIY/видео.html
Silicone Wire - ruclips.net/video/IDnPX6QPbu4/видео.html
Curious what the camera angle was on these flights.
It's about 35 degrees. Similar to the stock 65X.
What are your thoughts on using micro deans plugs ? I have no problem soldering so not sure if i should go XT30 or Micro deans ...
Steve Panebianco Micro Deans can work well. I know people who do that for 2S. It’s rated for 10A. But it’s not that much lighter than xt30. Most of the weight of 2S is in the battery itself. What I want to try is modding some 1S batteries so I can try 2x1S with micro deans. 😉
Wow what ripn 65 need that for my snapper6 also my mobula7 only have 7 batts so no big loss to go xt30 thanks
Since i want to fly 1s in the house, I'm thinking of running an XT30 for 2s and have a separate single PH2.0 connector for 1s. The weight difference should be slight, and I get the best of both worlds. Thoughts?
Should work. It won't be the lightest thing, but you'd have the flexibility.
You will notice the extra weight in the 1s configuration, but probably not much in 2s. Every gram makes a difference when flying 1s.
Sir I could be mistaken, but isn't two 300 mah batteries in a series equal to 600 mah?? Then you have a 300mah 2s but you say they are the same mah rating. How does this make sense man?
Two 300mah 1S batteries in series makes a 300mah 2S battery. In series, the voltage adds together. In parallel, the capacities add together.
@@MrShutterBug Awesome man thank you so much for the response im enjoying the vids
I put an xt30 and changed my tune on my Mobula7 and now when I bump into walls it get stuck so hard that I have to disarm to get off of them.
Try disabling “air mode” when flying indoors. It will be more forgiving when bumping into things.
Has anyone ever found where we can buy the solid version to replace? Thanks
But I just bought a bunch of 1s batteries lol, I may change over to the xt30 in the future though
i'm a bit confused as i am a noob.
if i want to change the connection to a xt30 to use a 2s for performance does that mean i could no longer use a 1s for indoor ? any help is much appreciated :)
p.s i have a mobula7
U could still solder a 1s to a xt30. But alot of the time it's better to 50% throttle on 2s. I have my throttle hooked to a knob that I can activate by a switch
From my Beta 75 Pro I made the experience that the PH2 connector is also very sensitive to oxydated or corroded contact pins. I experienced a hot connector after flight and reduced flight time and performance as well. It helped a bit, cleaning the pins with a glass fibre brush and applying anti-corrosion spray such as Kontakt 60 after any few flights.
When looking at the pins used by BetaFPV, these are just folded from metal sheet. There are other PH2 connectors available with massive pins which should handle higher current much better and be less sensitive to corrosion. So BetaFPV should also consider changing their connector supplier.
Just take a look at my Beta 75 Pro plug after 6 months of usage and repeated cleaning::
www.dropbox.com/s/cp4abljqd5jwonk/Beta75Pro.jpg?dl=0
And here is a better plug I have found on ebay (for soldering instead of crimping) to compare with:
www.dropbox.com/s/z1859r7p2tbcdei/Excellway.jpg?dl=0
I will now exchange my original plug with this one.
Same problems will apply for sure to Beta 65X ann Beta 75X with two-plug-solution.
You make an excellent point about the quality of the PH2 connectors used. As it turns out, the BetaFPV connectors are a cheap knock off. The official JST-PH2.0 connector has those solid pins. Unfortunately, it appears that almost all of the Chinese drone manufacturers are using the cheap folded ones. It's not just BetaFPV. I believe that the better connector would in fact give you better performance, and maybe better longevity. I'll probably post a follow-up to this video to show some data on that.
Would it be OK if I used those images that you shared, in a future video?
Do you have information about finding the better quality PH plug? Not sure what to look for when shopping online.
@@allanmuchmore5616 digikey sells the official ones, but you would have to solder up your own pigtail connector.
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/B2B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN)/455-1704-ND/926611
I'm sure you can buy pigtails already made, but I can't confirm which ones are good or bad. Just look for the solid pins. Some of those connectors have the downside that the pins come loose and push out the back. If that happens, I suggest adding glue on the back side of the connector. Good luck!
Hi @Mr Shutterbug, sorry for the late reply as RUclips didn't show me your answer in time, but yes, using the pictures is ok.
Btw. it is no problem just cutting the original connector off and soldering the original cables to the new connector. Although I have meanwhile replaced the original cables by cables with a bit thicker core, too. I have just protected the whole new connector by heat shrinking tube like this:
www.dropbox.com/s/0al5b1l5fj1o7fk/NewAssembly.jpg?dl=0
Meanwhile I have lots of flights with the new assembly and voltage stability during flight as well as power reserves are significantly better, even better than with the maiden flight of a new Beta 75 Pro. I have not seen any traces of corrosion on the contacts yet, but am regularly putting some Kontakt 60 spray onto them.
In summary this retrofit is a MUST for any brushless whoop with these low-quality folded PH2 pins.
hello, what awg cable is recommended for a 2s whoop like the mobula 7 with xt30?
20AWG is good but the Mobula7 FC has tiny solder pads. It is tricky to attach the larger wire and some people have damaged the FC while attempting it. So be careful.
I've been digging around for ages trying to get answer to why i should convert from my 2xph2.0 to an XT30 for a trashcan. Thank you! I can see from your graphs that the XT30 looked to get about 14% more flight time (20 seconds on top of 2:20). Would you say that is accurate?
Yes. In my own experience switching to an XT30 has been good for around 30 seconds more flight time , and noticeably more punch.
That's honestly a night-and-day difference. With the 1S batteries, it felt like you were struggling to keep airborne after dive maneuvers, but with the XT30 it felt like a larger Toothpick-sized drone. Imagine your OSD actually giving you an accurate voltage reading.
can i charge the same lipo batteries(3s 850mah) in parallel if they have different brand and discharge rate?
I wouldn’t, rapid lipo disassembly isn’t anything to mess around with
You can charge them in parallel even they have total different capacity, the only thing that matters - is to be the same S rating, 1S with 1S, 2S with 2S and so on...
And one more thing! They have to be at a close charge level - about 0.1V/per cell difference is admitted (but even 0.2V difference doesn't feel to be a problem)
Great vid! 👍👍👍
Well done ! Thanks
Not sure if you are right with your theory. Probably just worn 1S lipos
Thank you for putting in the effort for us...
Nice annova! Haha great info and I much appreciated !
Hi i just got my mobula 7 lastweek and i want to get the best performance of it what upgrade should i do? please recommend some batteries xt30 or ph 2.0 solid pins? and also please test the GNB 300mah 1s lihv and compare it to the 260 if there is a big difference..
Angel Adriann the batteries that come with the Mobula are pretty good. I also really like the GNB 260mAh HV 1S batteries. If you switch to xt30 you will have better performance at high speed but it will make the drone heavier. In general I think 2x1S is good for indoors and small yards and xt30 is good for flying faster in larger areas. Good luck.
Mr ShutterBug So is it worthy switching to xt30? thanks!
what about adding a cap.?
Steve Panebianco I haven’t needed one with the BetaFPV 2S ESCs.
Thanks great help bro!:) whooping great!🤗🤗👌
Great info, it so detail, i think for 1s ph2 with 22 wires makes diffrens😀
Very informative, gj👍👍
cool idea. thanks for sharing
I have xt30 on my 75x and get under 2 minute flight times, its terrible. But flies good.
2 minutes? That's short unless you're on full throttle the whole time. I usually get at least 3 minutes. More if I fly gentle (which I usually don't). Maybe the batteries?