You are the MAN ! Tip # 2 solved a huge problem I have been having. I did not have this switch setup at all so when I would bump a wall, the drone would completely freak out just like you said. Thank you ! Thank you !
Great job on the video! I really like the way you laid out the tips as well as including them in the notes for easy reference. You have taught me some very helpful tips. Thank you!
Just received one in the mail and set it up like yours. Going to try it today. Your video was one of the best and mostly important...very easy to follow. Thank you. The Drone Ranger. New Jersey USA P.S. Back in 1981 I met a girl from Sweden on my way home from Utah. Her name is Marie Louise Dahlgren. She was from Trollhattan. Not sure of the spellingbut that is the story. Thank you again for the tutorial video.
Thank you for your feedback! Glad I could help! If you have any more questions feel free to ask me! Interesting, that's about a 2 hour drive from where I am. Have a nice day!
@@dronexsweden6906 just purchased a vtx and going to put on raceflight stack.Sinopine TX862 is the name of the vtx. Don't actually see any how to videos in this specific vtx. Have booklet that came with it for install instructions
@@paulclement3235 You connect it just like any other vtx, it need a ground connection (black wire) a voltage connection (usually red wire) and a video in from the camera (yellow). Look in your manual what voltage it can handle and that the wire colors are like I stated. Usually the voltage in can take the battery voltage directly. Also if your flight controller has a built in OSD you can connect your fpv camera to camera in on the FC and the connect the camera out on your FC to the yellow video in on your Sinopine TX862. Hope that clears things up! Ask if you have anymore questions or if you want a more detailed answer.
@@dronexsweden6906... It can just be indoor flying... That is fine. Just seeing the frame, you telling us about your design, and what motors, etc. fit and flying it inside is great. No need to fly it outside. Or, you can do a part 2 with outdoor flight. As I remember it's a who0p frame, so why would we need outdoor flight? 🤔 Anyway, looking forward to seeing it. 👍😊
@@scootroter4859 Thanks for the support! The reason I want to really stress test it outside is that I want it to really surpass the original frame. If it is just as weak then it pointless. I want to release it on thingiverse so everyone can use it! You're comment and interest means a lot, I'm currently working on a better version than the one in this video and I'll try to get the video done as soon as possible. Hopefully I can fly it on saturday and have the video up on Monday! Thank you sincerely /Jakob
Thanks for the screenshot bro! Those settings seem to help a lot I don't know anything about pit settings yet I have more money than brains apparently thanks again
RPAS-UO Universidad de Oviedo glad I could help! 🤗
5 лет назад
@@dronexsweden6906 I am a complete dummy fliying FPV and I have just purchased one. Too many crashes with large aircrafts. Your viedo was really useful. I have been taking a look to your channel. You have many interesting things. I will include some of your videos in my reproduction lists or add your channel to featured channels 8-). Best regards from the North of Spain!
RPAS-UO Universidad de Oviedo thats awesome! I’m sure you’ll love it! It’s always really nice to hear nice feedback like this, it is what keeps me going trying to make better videos all the time. Good luck with your drone and channel! Happy flying 🚁
5 лет назад
@@dronexsweden6906 It was really deserved 8-)
5 лет назад
@@dronexsweden6906 I have just included some of your videos in my reproduction lists. Moreover, you have gave me a great idea. I will copy your system of adding a small camera-transmitter to a Syma for a friend of mine's son 8-).
Watched your video again... Had to. My Mobula7 said hello to an I beam on a sign and the little yellow receiver came off. Purchased an F4 board and its really nice. Not really sure of the difference from F3 board but will research it. Here are a few pictures if you havent seen them yet.
Ohh that's rough! At least you got a reason to upgrade the fc ;-) Looks neat! I'm experimenting with more classical frames at the moment without whoops and bigger motors. I will try to get a video out on that as soon as possible however right now I'm waiting on super slow shipping from banggood.
I found the Mobula 7 to be a crappy indoor flier as it came. Throttle management is a bear, always chasing the right power and difficult to keep stable for hovering. I'm fairly happy with it outdoors. Maybe I'll try different PIDs, but I plan on a frame and prop swap for flying outdoors.
That sounds like a lot, are you running 1s then? I haven't personally found the need for it. I generally fly 2s and it hovers with about 20-30% without curve!
@@mike94560 Ahh I see, that sucks! I feel you, here it has been snowy and the melted snow everywhere. Personally I've found that I prefer to fly 2s inside too. It's sacrifices battery life but I love having that extra power in tight turns and when going from to floor to the ceiling!
Robert Alexander I just use a generic 12V adapter that came with an old monitor or something like that. Any 12V adapter with at least 1 amp out will work 👌🏻
Motor stop on I best, ij air mode the motors don't stop anyway so it's fine for tricks , when you fly indoors or come to land turn off airmode and it's safer because motors then stop when you drop throttle ..
Very true, good point! Having air mode on a switch instead of motor stop is definitely preferred. I like putting it on the same switch as air mode so you get air mode when flying rate but not in stabilized indoors.
@@dronexsweden6906 I only fly acro, coming from rc planes and helicopters for years I just struggle to fly level mode, feels wierd like it's flighting me.
@@FlyingFun. Ahh I see, that makes sense! Totally agree when flying in large spaces, however I find it very hard to fly fast with good precision in tight indoor spaces like my apartment with rate mode!
@@dronexsweden6906 yes it's not easy, my house is a little bigger than most but not much. Once I got really locked into acro there was just no going back to level mode for memeven in tight spaces. Racers still use level mode so it's obviously faster for indoors though.
I would certainly recommend it! It’s a great starter just make sure to buy a lot of extra batteries. I would recommend getting 10 extras. Tack så mycket!
Does the Mobula 7 have a ufl socket for its vtx out of the box? I'm not upgrading the fpv camera, just the antenna. Will a Lumenier Axiis Micro ufl antenna go in a Mobula 7's standard vtx? I'm planning to fit one inside when my quad gets here, and hopefully i won't have to solder anything for an antenna upgrade.
The 6-1 charger won't work over USB as it requires 12V input. Traditional USB is only 5V. There might be a way to use a smart connector with USB-C but I wouldn't count on it.
Batteries placement, best to use the whoop type batts without the wires and then tne cables are short and well supported, your suggestion is good but puts the wires in the prop wash...
That's a pretty good option. However I haven't seen any whoop batteries with the mobula connector and using the standard whoop connectors would severely bottleneck the mobulas performance. De you know any good options?
@@dronexsweden6906 gnb250 is what I use, most of the gnb batts have the ph2.0 connector which is right for the mobula7 etc. Let me know if you need more info, they are available from Amazon etc.
@@dronexsweden6906 www.banggood.com/GAONENG-250mAh-1S-3_8V-30C60C-HV-4_35V-Lipo-Battery-With-PH2_0-Plug-for-RC-Drone-p-1380235.html?p=TY1117244425201308OD&custlinkid=149656 www.banggood.com/5Pcs-URUAV-3_7V-250mAh-30C-60C-1S-Lipo-Battery-PH2_0-Plug-for-Blade-Nano-QX-CPX-Tiny-Whoop-p-1361873.html?p=TY1117244425201308OD&custlinkid=149657 These are getting a good reputation. They come is a set of 5 or 10. www.banggood.com/10Pcs-URUAV-3_7V-250mAh-30C60C-1S-Lipo-Battery-PH2_0-for-Blade-Nano-QX-CPX-Tiny-Whoop-TINY6-6X-p-1404836.html?p=TY1117244425201308OD&custlinkid=149661
@@FlyingFun. Thanks! Good tip! It would be interesting to see how the ph2 connector stands up against the mobula stock one. If you have seen kebab fpvs video on these you might have seen his conclusion that a xt 30 makes a killer difference! I can image the mobula connector being somewhere in-between in performance.
@@dronexsweden6906 mobula7 connector is ph2.0 The xt30 will defo allow more power, I've seen quite a few worrying reports of the FC stopping working after a few flights with those though which is really strange. One tip was to short the pins of the connector together ( on the quad side of connector ) before plugging in a battery. I have used the red jst on my 2s builds and this is much lighter and is in between the 2 options , if you check out my beta75x flights they are on this red jst.
What is the minimum voltage the mobula should have on 1s? I charge it up to 4.2V maximum, but what is the lowest voltage I can fly before I should recharge?
Good question, it depends who you ask but most people say that everything above 3.4V is okay! Normally with 1s drones you can basically fly until it starts feeling sluggish. Since it doesn't have a lot of power on 1s it will have a very noticeable loss in power as the voltage sags. Also the Mobula have a low voltage alarm that will start to beep. However this being said the less you push your batteries to a low voltage level the more cycles they will survive. Just check the voltage on your charger after each flight. Normally you can fly to 3.4V and then they usually sag back to about 3.7V when you measure. Another good tip is using the mah reader in the bottom left of your OSD. For instance if you fly something like a 250mah then I would be comfortable to fly to around 200mah. However your reader might be off if you haven't calibrated it. Hope that helps, happy flying!
It depends on where you live. I bought mine on aliexpress which works no matter where you live but it will take a long time to get them. If you're in the US you could probably find something local like getfpv.
Hi! So I just got my mobula 7, and it used to arm just fine, but now when I try to arm the drone just starts beeping. It’s a few quick beeps and then it stops. Any suggestions?
Izak Burlo that’s most likely because of the drone not being level. If it doesn’t sit completely level it won’t arm. You can change this in the betaflight software. Look for arm angle or something like that. Hope that helps!
The sort answer is that it matters. Here's the long answer: As far as I know the color corresponds to the wire order. So the red wire motors spins one way and the black the other. You could just swap the placement of two of the wires in the connector to switch this however. Also on boards that support it you can change the motor direction in the bl help suite. I don't know if the Mobula has that feature though. Hope that helps!
Smart Audia doesnt work. it works on the osd but it doesnt change channel or power. do you have to do anything in betaflight' ie ports or uarts? regards Jon
@@rcsenior8082 Apparently there's a new Mobula HD shipping soon! That one will be 3s capable and have a lot different internals! It will be interesting to see how it preforms. Though the regular mobula is still a great choice, 1s batteries are soo much easier to manage than 3s.
2S will be more than enough for the moment! :)I will try to find time to update the firmware, the one flashed now is from 2018-10-13 and I saw that there's a 2.5.0 from 2019 available.
Thank you! I will absolutely do that, however I'm still working on it, I really want to get it perfect! I'm going to try the latest version this weekend so hopefully I can get the video and files out early next week!
You don't need to change anything on the Turnigy transmitter to fly 1s. However the low voltage alarm has a tendency to go off so you might want turn off the sound in the Bri./Sound menu. The OSD however will notice that it is on 1s and warn accordingly.
I would suggest adding a bit of expo and also lowering your rates overall. It does require really small and smooth adjustments, training in a simulator helps a bunch! Hope that helps, happy flying!
Glad you liked it! It's way too much of a hassle for me to sell them but I think you can order one from the Thingiverse page if you press the "order this printed" button. Check it out if you're interested! Happy flying! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424063
@@dronexsweden6906 all good man I have a few v3 frames they last much longer than v1. Thought maybe you were making them. Nice flying, I'm having a hard time adding extra switches on my dx6 for extra modes. I can only use arm and one 3 position switch as of now. Its driving me mad I have all these extra switches that wont recongnize
Wouldn't it be better if the manufacturers started putting the battery holster so the battery is in sideways? That way, it would not get ejected so easily. Seem like a simple fix. Gonna 3d print something and give it a go.
Agreeing with everything even the battery position but be careful not to land on cement or asphalt often because those battery leads will just get ripped off...
Great tips but I think you missed an important one - scaling back the throttle range. This can be done in either Betaflight or on your radio with OpenTx. A less sensitive throttle with a lowered max makes it much easier to fly level (especially indoors on 2S). Yes expo can help too but reducing throttle range helps more. Edit: I switch between 80% for outdoor and just 60% for indoor. Allows me to always use 2S for longer flights even indoors.
Yeah, great tip! I thought about it and it can definitely help a lot when flying indoors. However, I personally prefer flying without it to get max performance outside and then have uniform controls when going inside again. Happy flying!
![☀ Меньше не значит хуже? Новые микро антенны - леденцы [Foxeer Lollipop Micro]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/F6aKljzJ124/mqdefault.jpg)
![☀ Меньше не значит хуже? Новые микро антенны - леденцы [Foxeer Lollipop Micro]](/img/tr.png)
Great video! I just wanted to add you can also up the gyro and pid loop to 4k 4k.
Great tip! I really should have included that!
You are the MAN ! Tip # 2 solved a huge problem I have been having. I did not have this switch setup at all so when I would bump a wall, the drone would completely freak out just like you said. Thank you ! Thank you !
Zaineman Glad I could help! Happy flying!
Great video! Just got back to droning after a long break, flying my mobula again and soon the 5inch will spin toooo
Great starter tips as most will be buying this type first- but these tips really apply to any drone.
Yes definitely!
Great job on the video! I really like the way you laid out the tips as well as including them in the notes for easy reference. You have taught me some very helpful tips. Thank you!
Thank you, glad they helped 😀
Just received one in the mail and set it up like yours. Going to try it today. Your video was one of the best and mostly important...very easy to follow. Thank you. The Drone Ranger. New Jersey USA P.S. Back in 1981 I met a girl from Sweden on my way home from Utah. Her name is Marie Louise Dahlgren. She was from Trollhattan. Not sure of the spellingbut that is the story. Thank you again for the tutorial video.
Thank you for your feedback! Glad I could help! If you have any more questions feel free to ask me! Interesting, that's about a 2 hour drive from where I am.
Have a nice day!
@@dronexsweden6906 just purchased a vtx and going to put on raceflight stack.Sinopine TX862 is the name of the vtx. Don't actually see any how to videos in this specific vtx. Have booklet that came with it for install instructions
@@paulclement3235 You connect it just like any other vtx, it need a ground connection (black wire) a voltage connection (usually red wire) and a video in from the camera (yellow). Look in your manual what voltage it can handle and that the wire colors are like I stated. Usually the voltage in can take the battery voltage directly. Also if your flight controller has a built in OSD you can connect your fpv camera to camera in on the FC and the connect the camera out on your FC to the yellow video in on your Sinopine TX862. Hope that clears things up! Ask if you have anymore questions or if you want a more detailed answer.
You are the man !!! Good clear instructions.... Thumbs up Cheers.
Thanks! Glad I could help!
Awesome video keep up good work thank you
Nicely done! 👍 It'd be great to see that 3D printed frame! 😎
Thanks! The video is taking a while though as it snow ad water everywhere atm! Hope I can get some flying in soon!
@@dronexsweden6906... It can just be indoor flying... That is fine. Just seeing the frame, you telling us about your design, and what motors, etc. fit and flying it inside is great. No need to fly it outside. Or, you can do a part 2 with outdoor flight. As I remember it's a who0p frame, so why would we need outdoor flight? 🤔
Anyway, looking forward to seeing it. 👍😊
@@scootroter4859 Thanks for the support! The reason I want to really stress test it outside is that I want it to really surpass the original frame. If it is just as weak then it pointless. I want to release it on thingiverse so everyone can use it! You're comment and interest means a lot, I'm currently working on a better version than the one in this video and I'll try to get the video done as soon as possible. Hopefully I can fly it on saturday and have the video up on Monday! Thank you sincerely /Jakob
@@scootroter4859 The video is out now! Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/lV6qGhrogLg/видео.html Thank you for your support!
You can put a jumper wire on one of the battery connections short it and run on one 1s battery.
Great video I just got one of these
Thank you for the great tips!
DeceitfulDestiny thanks! Glad I could help!
Thanks for the screenshot bro! Those settings seem to help a lot I don't know anything about pit settings yet I have more money than brains apparently thanks again
No problem! Glad I could help 😀
Great video! Awesome channel 👍 new sub🤙
Glad you liked it! 😁
Great video mate! Keep it up please! Really got some good informations for „beginners“!
Thank you so much! I will! I have a lot of videos in the pipeline ⚡️
Excellent video: perfectly explained, interesting precise. Thank you so much!
RPAS-UO Universidad de Oviedo glad I could help! 🤗
@@dronexsweden6906 I am a complete dummy fliying FPV and I have just purchased one. Too many crashes with large aircrafts. Your viedo was really useful. I have been taking a look to your channel. You have many interesting things. I will include some of your videos in my reproduction lists or add your channel to featured channels 8-). Best regards from the North of Spain!
RPAS-UO Universidad de Oviedo thats awesome! I’m sure you’ll love it! It’s always really nice to hear nice feedback like this, it is what keeps me going trying to make better videos all the time. Good luck with your drone and channel! Happy flying 🚁
@@dronexsweden6906 It was really deserved 8-)
@@dronexsweden6906 I have just included some of your videos in my reproduction lists. Moreover, you have gave me a great idea. I will copy your system of adding a small camera-transmitter to a Syma for a friend of mine's son 8-).
Nice video. Good tips. Thank you
Thank you, glad I could help!
Awesome and helpful. I subscribed right away!
Thank you! Glad I could help!
Thanks, i fly the M7 too. And your tips are great.
I'm glad my tips were helpful! The Mobula 7 is just an amazing drone!
Great tips 👌👍🔝
Great video!
Thank you, glad you liked it! 😀
Watched your video again... Had to. My Mobula7 said hello to an I beam on a sign and the little yellow receiver came off. Purchased an F4 board and its really nice. Not really sure of the difference from F3 board but will research it. Here are a few pictures if you havent seen them yet.
Ohh that's rough! At least you got a reason to upgrade the fc ;-) Looks neat! I'm experimenting with more classical frames at the moment without whoops and bigger motors. I will try to get a video out on that as soon as possible however right now I'm waiting on super slow shipping from banggood.
I found the Mobula 7 to be a crappy indoor flier as it came. Throttle management is a bear, always chasing the right power and difficult to keep stable for hovering. I'm fairly happy with it outdoors. Maybe I'll try different PIDs, but I plan on a frame and prop swap for flying outdoors.
Put a %80 throttle limit on different animal then
great video! what are you using to power your charger?
I also added a throttle curve to help keep hover at 33% of stick throw. It was about 75%
That sounds like a lot, are you running 1s then? I haven't personally found the need for it. I generally fly 2s and it hovers with about 20-30% without curve!
Yes 1S only 300mAh. Gives me just over 3 minutes of flight time. Been raining a lot. So I am kind of stuck inside for now.
@@mike94560 Ahh I see, that sucks! I feel you, here it has been snowy and the melted snow everywhere. Personally I've found that I prefer to fly 2s inside too. It's sacrifices battery life but I love having that extra power in tight turns and when going from to floor to the ceiling!
nice tipps, thanks!
Glad I could help!
Great video thanks. What is your nice power source for the charger?
Robert Alexander I just use a generic 12V adapter that came with an old monitor or something like that. Any 12V adapter with at least 1 amp out will work 👌🏻
Dont you have to use “VTX SA” that corresponds to SmartAudio instead of the “VTX TR” that is for Tramp?
That might work too I don’t know. But tramp definitely works! Happy flying!
Does it have horizon mode like on the tiny hawk?
Hi! I just got my mobula7. Is it better to fly in angle mode indoor like inside a small room?
nice tips, i'll try
Motor stop on I best, ij air mode the motors don't stop anyway so it's fine for tricks , when you fly indoors or come to land turn off airmode and it's safer because motors then stop when you drop throttle ..
Very true, good point! Having air mode on a switch instead of motor stop is definitely preferred. I like putting it on the same switch as air mode so you get air mode when flying rate but not in stabilized indoors.
@@dronexsweden6906 I only fly acro, coming from rc planes and helicopters for years I just struggle to fly level mode, feels wierd like it's flighting me.
@@FlyingFun. Ahh I see, that makes sense! Totally agree when flying in large spaces, however I find it very hard to fly fast with good precision in tight indoor spaces like my apartment with rate mode!
@@dronexsweden6906 yes it's not easy, my house is a little bigger than most but not much.
Once I got really locked into acro there was just no going back to level mode for memeven in tight spaces.
Racers still use level mode so it's obviously faster for indoors though.
@@FlyingFun. Interesting! I really like the idea of it though, soo nice to able to do split s and such!
hello good video but just for notice for change the power off the vtx you have to put another one. The stock vtx is limit to 25mw maximum
ivan jeuffroy yeah i notice that too! Good spot!
Extra tips, buy a load of motors as they break easily and upgrade the AIO camera
Hello, can you help me, which mobula7 receiver version is compatible for turnigy evolution? Thanks.
The Flysky version is compatible with the Turnigy evolution. Happy flying!
I am thinking about buing this drone as a starter drone, thanks for the tips. Grattis, bra video ;)
I would certainly recommend it! It’s a great starter just make sure to buy a lot of extra batteries. I would recommend getting 10 extras. Tack så mycket!
Does the Mobula 7 have a ufl socket for its vtx out of the box? I'm not upgrading the fpv camera, just the antenna.
Will a Lumenier Axiis Micro ufl antenna go in a Mobula 7's standard vtx? I'm planning to fit one inside when my quad gets here, and hopefully i won't have to solder anything for an antenna upgrade.
Hm not sure and unfortunately I don't have it anymore so I can't check. Hope you find out soon enough!
Hi thank you... What cable I need to use the 6-1 charger. Will a usb-usb cable work?
The 6-1 charger won't work over USB as it requires 12V input. Traditional USB is only 5V. There might be a way to use a smart connector with USB-C but I wouldn't count on it.
Batteries placement, best to use the whoop type batts without the wires and then tne cables are short and well supported, your suggestion is good but puts the wires in the prop wash...
That's a pretty good option. However I haven't seen any whoop batteries with the mobula connector and using the standard whoop connectors would severely bottleneck the mobulas performance. De you know any good options?
@@dronexsweden6906 gnb250 is what I use, most of the gnb batts have the ph2.0 connector which is right for the mobula7 etc.
Let me know if you need more info, they are available from Amazon etc.
@@dronexsweden6906 www.banggood.com/GAONENG-250mAh-1S-3_8V-30C60C-HV-4_35V-Lipo-Battery-With-PH2_0-Plug-for-RC-Drone-p-1380235.html?p=TY1117244425201308OD&custlinkid=149656
www.banggood.com/5Pcs-URUAV-3_7V-250mAh-30C-60C-1S-Lipo-Battery-PH2_0-Plug-for-Blade-Nano-QX-CPX-Tiny-Whoop-p-1361873.html?p=TY1117244425201308OD&custlinkid=149657
These are getting a good reputation. They come is a set of 5 or 10.
www.banggood.com/10Pcs-URUAV-3_7V-250mAh-30C60C-1S-Lipo-Battery-PH2_0-for-Blade-Nano-QX-CPX-Tiny-Whoop-TINY6-6X-p-1404836.html?p=TY1117244425201308OD&custlinkid=149661
@@FlyingFun. Thanks! Good tip! It would be interesting to see how the ph2 connector stands up against the mobula stock one. If you have seen kebab fpvs video on these you might have seen his conclusion that a xt 30 makes a killer difference! I can image the mobula connector being somewhere in-between in performance.
@@dronexsweden6906 mobula7 connector is ph2.0
The xt30 will defo allow more power, I've seen quite a few worrying reports of the FC stopping working after a few flights with those though which is really strange.
One tip was to short the pins of the connector together ( on the quad side of connector ) before plugging in a battery. I have used the red jst on my 2s builds and this is much lighter and is in between the 2 options , if you check out my beta75x flights they are on this red jst.
What voltage are you supposed to bring these batteries down to when flying on 2s?
Peanut Butter I usually bring my 2 1s 300 mah down to around 6.5v (like 3.25 for each one)
Ok thank you so much for fast reply! 😊
Where can I find your 3D print file for your frame?
It’s in the description of my 3D printed frame video! Hope that helps!
What is the minimum voltage the mobula should have on 1s? I charge it up to 4.2V maximum, but what is the lowest voltage I can fly before I should recharge?
Good question, it depends who you ask but most people say that everything above 3.4V is okay! Normally with 1s drones you can basically fly until it starts feeling sluggish. Since it doesn't have a lot of power on 1s it will have a very noticeable loss in power as the voltage sags. Also the Mobula have a low voltage alarm that will start to beep. However this being said the less you push your batteries to a low voltage level the more cycles they will survive. Just check the voltage on your charger after each flight. Normally you can fly to 3.4V and then they usually sag back to about 3.7V when you measure. Another good tip is using the mah reader in the bottom left of your OSD. For instance if you fly something like a 250mah then I would be comfortable to fly to around 200mah. However your reader might be off if you haven't calibrated it.
Hope that helps, happy flying!
DroneX Sweden Thank you so much, that was very helpful!
great video ! where can i buy the batteries and charger ?
It depends on where you live. I bought mine on aliexpress which works no matter where you live but it will take a long time to get them. If you're in the US you could probably find something local like getfpv.
Hi, thanks for the video
!
Is this compatible with Turnigy TGY-i6 Transmitter EU ? (maybe the Compatible Flysky Receiver version?)
Yes it is! Just get the flysky version and it will work 😊 Happy flying!
Awesome content, subbed your channel
Home Dronen thank you, glad you like it! You’re my 500th sub, what a milestone 🙌🏻
Great vid... I have the eachine and will be doing some vids on it as well.. I suspect most of these will carry over. ! Great content! +sub
Cool! Yes most likely, good luck!
Hi! So I just got my mobula 7, and it used to arm just fine, but now when I try to arm the drone just starts beeping. It’s a few quick beeps and then it stops. Any suggestions?
Izak Burlo that’s most likely because of the drone not being level. If it doesn’t sit completely level it won’t arm. You can change this in the betaflight software. Look for arm angle or something like that. Hope that helps!
DroneX Sweden Thanks man, i figures it out. Turns out it was just a throttle alarm so I changed a few settings and I’m good now
Izak Burlo Ahh yeah that’s a common problem too. Glad you figured it out!
I had no idea you could change the transmitter power!
I burnt my motors and want to replace them. Does the wire colour of the motor makw any difference? Can i buy all four motors in red wire?
The sort answer is that it matters. Here's the long answer: As far as I know the color corresponds to the wire order. So the red wire motors spins one way and the black the other. You could just swap the placement of two of the wires in the connector to switch this however. Also on boards that support it you can change the motor direction in the bl help suite. I don't know if the Mobula has that feature though. Hope that helps!
@@dronexsweden6906 thanks man. I'll give it a try 👍👍👍
Smart Audia doesnt work. it works on the osd but it doesnt change channel or power. do you have to do anything in betaflight' ie ports or uarts?
regards
Jon
its ok eu version is not compatible
Strange it should be configured when you get it. Make sure that TBS smart audio on UART 3 in the ports tab. Hope that helps, happy flying!
Great video!
I have a Mobula 7 V1 on the way and I will set it up with my Evo radio.
Does both V1 and V2 have the
Yes they do! Really the only thing that changed as far as I know is the frame. It was a quiet upgrade.
@@dronexsweden6906 I got lucky! The Banggood page had an image of the V1, but when I opened the box today, there's the V2.0. :)
@@rcsenior8082 Apparently there's a new Mobula HD shipping soon! That one will be 3s capable and have a lot different internals! It will be interesting to see how it preforms. Though the regular mobula is still a great choice, 1s batteries are soo much easier to manage than 3s.
2S will be more than enough for the moment! :)I will try to find time to update the firmware, the one flashed now is from 2018-10-13 and I saw that there's a 2.5.0 from 2019 available.
What exactly are your PId settings can't read them on the screen thanks
Here is a high res screenshot! drive.google.com/file/d/1oDt_SRyF5UhpDPiQf8A4LUCPOQrEAEcD/view?usp=sharing
Can yoo publish a link for the stl file for the frame? Great video
Thank you! I will absolutely do that, however I'm still working on it, I really want to get it perfect! I'm going to try the latest version this weekend so hopefully I can get the video and files out early next week!
Here's the frame! Video coming tomorrow! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424063/
The video is out now! ruclips.net/video/lV6qGhrogLg/видео.html
How do I set up tournagy evolution for the power settings on mobula 7 on 1s
You don't need to change anything on the Turnigy transmitter to fly 1s. However the low voltage alarm has a tendency to go off so you might want turn off the sound in the Bri./Sound menu. The OSD however will notice that it is on 1s and warn accordingly.
i cant seem to fly it smoothly, im all over the place even in basic modes
I would suggest adding a bit of expo and also lowering your rates overall. It does require really small and smooth adjustments, training in a simulator helps a bunch! Hope that helps, happy flying!
Thanks for the helpful tips 👍👍 , lemme know if you wanna sell me one of your 3d frames. Thanks for the video.
Glad you liked it! It's way too much of a hassle for me to sell them but I think you can order one from the Thingiverse page if you press the "order this printed" button. Check it out if you're interested! Happy flying! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424063
@@dronexsweden6906 all good man I have a few v3 frames they last much longer than v1. Thought maybe you were making them. Nice flying, I'm having a hard time adding extra switches on my dx6 for extra modes. I can only use arm and one 3 position switch as of now. Its driving me mad I have all these extra switches that wont recongnize
@@teourbs That's awesome! Have you considered turning it into a toothpick quad? Those frames are virtually indestructible and so much fun to fly 🙌🏻
Exchange the connectors to XT30. Only use 350mAh 2s LiPos.
Wouldn't it be better if the manufacturers started putting the battery holster so the battery is in sideways? That way, it would not get ejected so easily. Seem like a simple fix. Gonna 3d print something and give it a go.
Great video 👍
Tip 11: Move to a warmer country. That increases your flying opportunities significantly and reduces your income tax dramatically!
Good tip! I'll make sure to try it! 😅
Agreeing with everything even the battery position but be careful not to land on cement or asphalt often because those battery leads will just get ripped off...
Ohh that sucks! Surprisingly it hasn't happened to me!... yet 😅
DroneX Sweden it hasn't happened with the mobula7 yet but my Et100 2sgnb packs the charge leads are a bit weak. Cheers
@@DJDevine Ahh I see, let's hope it doesn't! 😅
U still fly ur Mobula7 these days?
Not anymore I gutted mine and did the mod in the next video so it's not really a mobula anymore 😅
yes I am
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank you
Great tips but I think you missed an important one - scaling back the throttle range. This can be done in either Betaflight or on your radio with OpenTx. A less sensitive throttle with a lowered max makes it much easier to fly level (especially indoors on 2S). Yes expo can help too but reducing throttle range helps more.
Edit: I switch between 80% for outdoor and just 60% for indoor. Allows me to always use 2S for longer flights even indoors.
Yeah, great tip! I thought about it and it can definitely help a lot when flying indoors. However, I personally prefer flying without it to get max performance outside and then have uniform controls when going inside again. Happy flying!
Myket bra.
De variety myler bra factist
Tackar!