@@broncobart4354 This is not advice for the masses. No one will claim the screens are there to look pretty. If it's working for you then that's probably because of good oil maintenance and attention to cleanliness during services and repairs. Only takes a small piece of silicone or a piece of metal flashing to stick an IPR valve open to give you a no-start or worse metal damaging the HPOP internally and putting injectors at risk. If something goes wrong in the engine and those screens are not in place then any protection they offered from the unrelated problem elsewhere in the engine will be gone making a repair more expensive. Having a bypass filter and the regular oil filter helps but is not protection against all possible situations because both of these systems have bypasses built in and therefore do not filter all oil that passes through their chambers 100% of the time. Removing that oil cooler screen forces all the lost filtration to the injector screens and the IPR screen, both which can clog quickly.
Looks like a nice setup, and you kept it simple. I also only tow a 6500lb camper with my 2003 6.0. I am seeing 30-40 degree delta while towing in the summer...I am assuming I need to replace the factory oil cooler, but I wonder if the aux cooler you built would help out with that?
After looking at this video I love this concept and want to do my own variant. I see that in your other videos youre towing and have the fan clucth locked up keeping the temps down. Wondering what your temps are liked unloaded around town without the fan clucth. My biggest concern is oil pressure, how did you moniter or have confidence your oil pressure wouldnt drop too far?
I just monitored the oil pressure with a test gauge. It would probably be a good idea to install an actual numbered gauge in the cab with this setup though. I plan on getting away from the fan clutch switch lock up this summer and installing a larger radiator. I've got a vented hood now as well. Around town I'm running 192-195 F coolant and oil is around 180-185.
I think it would be cool to try and unstack the radiator and coolers. Maybe relocate the oil cooler to the bed of the truck and install an electric fan for that. The less heat we can run across the engine bay the better.
how the oil cooler holding up after roughly 2 years? i just sourced all the part to build my own oil bypass and was thinking of adding a extra oil cooler since i have been fighting high oil temps. Also did you ever add a oil restrictor? i have billet oil filter housing and oil cap with the fitting already so i'm going that route i just see must people are using a oil restrictor.
I've actually remove it after upgrading the radiator. If you keep the coolant temp in check with a healthy stock oil cooler you don't need the air to oil cooler.
@@broncobart4354 Thanks for the update. i'm going to go ahead and replace my oil cooler and still do the bypass filter portion. I have a lifted truck and im having no coolant temp issue just oil temps.
@@04deathstroke It’s a 6.0 tranny cooler. Filter is something I had lying around. So no links. Just use something that has a 5 or lower micron count and can handle 100psi.
@@broncobart4354I have been considering this concept and I have seen those transmission coolers for sale. It looked like they have 3/8" hose barbs on the inlet and outlet. Did you need to adapt it for the 1/2" lines?
All good. Added a thermostat to circuit as it worked too well in winter. The only thing I’m going to change is the exit point at the filter. I’m going to tap and hard line the pressure line from the oil cooler housing so I don’t have to remove the hose each time I replace the oil filter. I’m also going to tap the valve cover and install a 30psi check valve to prevent drain-back though I haven’t experienced that yet.
@@broncobart4354 Hey thanks for the reply last year! I'm thinking of finally doing this and wanted to check with you to see if all is still well with the mod? Thanks!
@@gregsauer8330 Yes still working great. I ended up splitting the turbo line as the main feed to the cooler instead of the oil filter. So now the turbo oil feed line goes directly through the cooler and then into the turbo. I noticed a slight drop in oil pressure (about 10psi) when the oil heated up above 208F when towing hard through the high desert mountains. I think this was due a slight drop in flow across the main oil cooler. I considered installing an orifice to restrict the flow but, I was planning on tapping into the oil cooler housing anyways. Now I don't have to remove the hose from the oil filter to change the oil. Oil pressure is back up now. I would also like to add that since relocating to warmer climate I've switched to 15w50 oil. I've noticed less IPR % upon startup and at at operating temperature. The turbo spool up also seems to be a little quicker, though I have no hard data to support that. I also installed a check valve in the cooler supply line to prevent back flowing so the turbo gets an instant supply of oil on startup.
Temperatures were never a problem with these engines. Clogs in coolant passages which can cause cooling problems and high temperatures are. Treat the cause not the problem. Oil has a temperature it needs to reach and remain at to drive volatiles and moisture out which keeps sludge formation, oil degradation, and acid build up under control. In a diesel this is more important because the higher pressures of combustion and use of pressurized air in the combustion chambers increases the typical blow-by compared to gasoline powered engines. Cooler is not always better and keeping your oil too cool makes it less clean physically and chemically. While oil that is run at 180 degrees Vs 210+ degrees will last longer outside of an engine it's not true for internal combustion engines because of the contamination. 230 for a gasoline engine and 260 degrees for a diesel are the ideal temperatures for driving out volatile compounds and moisture from engine oil. Because there is a reduction in oil life as the temperature rises there is a balance that needs to be struck between temperature and keeping oil clean of contamination. Engine oil in the oil pan typically is 25 degrees warmer than what the oil temperature is reading at the stock oil temperature sensor location. 220 degrees is recommended as the balance point between oil life and oil cleanliness and that translates to 195 degrees at the engine oil temperature sensors in the factory location. If you want to help your oil the best things to do are oil-bypass filtration in the 2-5 micron range and avoiding short trips. These engines are more efficient and more powerful the warmer they run. Hot oil and cool coolant are idea. The stock coolers are great at keeping oil temperature close to the ideal balance point across all modes of operation. That goes out the door when your cooler is clogged. The only reason you use an external cooler is to avoid problems with clogs as temperature in a properly functioning cooler is not the issue.
I agree that most owners of these trucks do not maintain the cooling system as they should. But, that doesn't change the fact that the oil temps on these engines should be kept in check. I personally maintain my engine as it should be done. I practice preventative maintenance, not reactive. As L-1 and L-2 Certified Master Technician I've seen the repeat failures on these trucks. I haven't had one comeback due to a screen failure since there no longer is one. It goes without saying to keep trash out of the oil bud. If a technician can't keep dirt out of the engine oil funnel they are using, then they probably shouldn't be working on these trucks or any engine for that matter.
The fact that you're stating that temperatures were never a problem with these engines is hilarious. Why did Ford update flashes affecting cold weather starts and the fan clutch duty cycle for different operating conditions. Why did they sell a snow plow fan clutch? Albeit, this may not be a result of the engine design, but the chassis in which it was installed. You install one of these in school bus or medium duty vehicle, the engine bay has a lot more room. Hence cooler operating temps. I'll bet you're going to tell me that they don't have head gasket issues either. Given the amount of flow and lack of thermostat in the lubrication system, I find it hard to believe the oil in the pan is 25 degrees warmer than the coolant temperature sensor is displaying, especially given the sensor is located directly on the oil cooler housing before exiting back to the crankcase coming straight from the pump. Furthermore, if you're going to try and call someone out under accusations misinformation, why don't you post a link to your contributions or prove your findings to help others out. I would love to see hard factual data backing up your comments, if you have any.
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Great idea and proof of concept. I have been wanting to do something similar to mine. Thanks for posting your setup.
Beautiful job with old-school vibe. Thanks for the great explanation.
I like this set up. I still want to get to the strainer under the oil cooler clean cooler while its off and add this auxiliary air cooler
I’ve found the screens work better in the trash.
@@broncobart4354 This is not advice for the masses. No one will claim the screens are there to look pretty. If it's working for you then that's probably because of good oil maintenance and attention to cleanliness during services and repairs. Only takes a small piece of silicone or a piece of metal flashing to stick an IPR valve open to give you a no-start or worse metal damaging the HPOP internally and putting injectors at risk.
If something goes wrong in the engine and those screens are not in place then any protection they offered from the unrelated problem elsewhere in the engine will be gone making a repair more expensive. Having a bypass filter and the regular oil filter helps but is not protection against all possible situations because both of these systems have bypasses built in and therefore do not filter all oil that passes through their chambers 100% of the time.
Removing that oil cooler screen forces all the lost filtration to the injector screens and the IPR screen, both which can clog quickly.
@@btwbrand I have one question for you my friend. How many failures of the HPOP system have you seen caused by these screens failing?
Thanks for kind words!
Looks like a nice setup, and you kept it simple. I also only tow a 6500lb camper with my 2003 6.0. I am seeing 30-40 degree delta while towing in the summer...I am assuming I need to replace the factory oil cooler, but I wonder if the aux cooler you built would help out with that?
You've definitely got an OEM cooler issue.
After looking at this video I love this concept and want to do my own variant. I see that in your other videos youre towing and have the fan clucth locked up keeping the temps down. Wondering what your temps are liked unloaded around town without the fan clucth. My biggest concern is oil pressure, how did you moniter or have confidence your oil pressure wouldnt drop too far?
I just monitored the oil pressure with a test gauge. It would probably be a good idea to install an actual numbered gauge in the cab with this setup though. I plan on getting away from the fan clutch switch lock up this summer and installing a larger radiator. I've got a vented hood now as well. Around town I'm running 192-195 F coolant and oil is around 180-185.
I think it would be cool to try and unstack the radiator and coolers. Maybe relocate the oil cooler to the bed of the truck and install an electric fan for that. The less heat we can run across the engine bay the better.
do u have the list of parts for that i think i might try it in my truck
how the oil cooler holding up after roughly 2 years? i just sourced all the part to build my own oil bypass and was thinking of adding a extra oil cooler since i have been fighting high oil temps. Also did you ever add a oil restrictor? i have billet oil filter housing and oil cap with the fitting already so i'm going that route i just see must people are using a oil restrictor.
I've actually remove it after upgrading the radiator. If you keep the coolant temp in check with a healthy stock oil cooler you don't need the air to oil cooler.
@@broncobart4354 Thanks for the update. i'm going to go ahead and replace my oil cooler and still do the bypass filter portion. I have a lifted truck and im having no coolant temp issue just oil temps.
What size of line are you using? Is the oil filter housing tapped with 1/2 or 1/4”?
1/2” line and 3/8” pipe tap.
@@broncobart4354 can you by any chance link or just let me know the filter and trans cooler
@@04deathstroke
It’s a 6.0 tranny cooler. Filter is something I had lying around. So no links.
Just use something that has a 5 or lower micron count and can handle 100psi.
@@broncobart4354 thanks brother I appreciate you
@@broncobart4354I have been considering this concept and I have seen those transmission coolers for sale. It looked like they have 3/8" hose barbs on the inlet and outlet. Did you need to adapt it for the 1/2" lines?
How is this running for you months later? Any issues?
All good. Added a thermostat to circuit as it worked too well in winter. The only thing I’m going to change is the exit point at the filter. I’m going to tap and hard line the pressure line from the oil cooler housing so I don’t have to remove the hose each time I replace the oil filter. I’m also going to tap the valve cover and install a 30psi check valve to prevent drain-back though I haven’t experienced that yet.
@@broncobart4354 Hey thanks for the reply last year! I'm thinking of finally doing this and wanted to check with you to see if all is still well with the mod? Thanks!
@@gregsauer8330 Yes still working great. I ended up splitting the turbo line as the main feed to the cooler instead of the oil filter. So now the turbo oil feed line goes directly through the cooler and then into the turbo. I noticed a slight drop in oil pressure (about 10psi) when the oil heated up above 208F when towing hard through the high desert mountains. I think this was due a slight drop in flow across the main oil cooler. I considered installing an orifice to restrict the flow but, I was planning on tapping into the oil cooler housing anyways. Now I don't have to remove the hose from the oil filter to change the oil. Oil pressure is back up now. I would also like to add that since relocating to warmer climate I've switched to 15w50 oil. I've noticed less IPR % upon startup and at at operating temperature. The turbo spool up also seems to be a little quicker, though I have no hard data to support that. I also installed a check valve in the cooler supply line to prevent back flowing so the turbo gets an instant supply of oil on startup.
@@broncobart4354 thanks for the detailed reply!
@@broncobart4354can you post a video of your set up now?
Temperatures were never a problem with these engines. Clogs in coolant passages which can cause cooling problems and high temperatures are. Treat the cause not the problem.
Oil has a temperature it needs to reach and remain at to drive volatiles and moisture out which keeps sludge formation, oil degradation, and acid build up under control.
In a diesel this is more important because the higher pressures of combustion and use of pressurized air in the combustion chambers increases the typical blow-by compared to gasoline powered engines.
Cooler is not always better and keeping your oil too cool makes it less clean physically and chemically.
While oil that is run at 180 degrees Vs 210+ degrees will last longer outside of an engine it's not true for internal combustion engines because of the contamination.
230 for a gasoline engine and 260 degrees for a diesel are the ideal temperatures for driving out volatile compounds and moisture from engine oil.
Because there is a reduction in oil life as the temperature rises there is a balance that needs to be struck between temperature and keeping oil clean of contamination.
Engine oil in the oil pan typically is 25 degrees warmer than what the oil temperature is reading at the stock oil temperature sensor location. 220 degrees is recommended as the balance point between oil life and oil cleanliness and that translates to 195 degrees at the engine oil temperature sensors in the factory location.
If you want to help your oil the best things to do are oil-bypass filtration in the 2-5 micron range and avoiding short trips.
These engines are more efficient and more powerful the warmer they run. Hot oil and cool coolant are idea.
The stock coolers are great at keeping oil temperature close to the ideal balance point across all modes of operation. That goes out the door when your cooler is clogged. The only reason you use an external cooler is to avoid problems with clogs as temperature in a properly functioning cooler is not the issue.
I agree that most owners of these trucks do not maintain the cooling system as they should. But, that doesn't change the fact that the oil temps on these engines should be kept in check. I personally maintain my engine as it should be done. I practice preventative maintenance, not reactive. As L-1 and L-2 Certified Master Technician I've seen the repeat failures on these trucks. I haven't had one comeback due to a screen failure since there no longer is one. It goes without saying to keep trash out of the oil bud. If a technician can't keep dirt out of the engine oil funnel they are using, then they probably shouldn't be working on these trucks or any engine for that matter.
The fact that you're stating that temperatures were never a problem with these engines is hilarious. Why did Ford update flashes affecting cold weather starts and the fan clutch duty cycle for different operating conditions. Why did they sell a snow plow fan clutch? Albeit, this may not be a result of the engine design, but the chassis in which it was installed. You install one of these in school bus or medium duty vehicle, the engine bay has a lot more room. Hence cooler operating temps. I'll bet you're going to tell me that they don't have head gasket issues either.
Given the amount of flow and lack of thermostat in the lubrication system, I find it hard to believe the oil in the pan is 25 degrees warmer than the coolant temperature sensor is displaying, especially given the sensor is located directly on the oil cooler housing before exiting back to the crankcase coming straight from the pump.
Furthermore, if you're going to try and call someone out under accusations misinformation, why don't you post a link to your contributions or prove your findings to help others out. I would love to see hard factual data backing up your comments, if you have any.