I would recommend measuring off a 1-2-3 block or gauge block on the table as to not accidental probe the bottom of a scallop or imperfection on the table. It's probably not going to make a huge difference but that's what I do. I like that you added the pre-Z adjustment message before modifying the Z for the fixture offset. I will have to add that to my program.
There is a plug in the back cabinet you can unplug to disable the door interlock, I have mine unpluged as I have to occasionally open the door while it’s operating
Great video, im not sure i fully understand tho Do you need to paste the post processor in every program i run on the machine or is it a macro you can use on the machine any time ? I've seen this technic done in a sligthly different way so im a little bit confused
I don't understand why you are using high production type setup technics? For the home shop It works so much better just to touch the tools off the part. Its fast, intuitive and gives you an exact setting. You have to measure every single tool out of the machine with your method and then type in the length. So, either way you need to measure tools. I would rather do it in the machine and have the machine log the offsets so I don't fat finger it.
You must be completely missing how this works. I don't touch tools off a part because sometimes I'll use the same tools over and over for 20 different parts in a row. If I move to a different job, suddenly I don't have a reference to touch off new or worn tools anymore. So touch them all off on the table (which never changes) and just set the work offset once per part. I don't have to type anything in, so I literally can't fat finger anything. Yeah, you have to set up all the tools in the carousel, but you only need to do that once (if you've been touching off the part before). If you've been touching off the table the whole time you don't even need to touch off the tools again. The macro or the post processor will just correct them.
Touching off the table and using your probe/indicator to locate the work offset is objectively the best way to use a CNC, touching off your part is ridiculously inaccurate, and a very bad habit to have; because forgetting to change the offset for a single tool for a new part leads to crashes, which a home shop usually cannot afford to do. it's also far more tedious than indicating the part once and hitting go. Though, positive tool offsets is unnecessary.
@@Kitsyfluff When my Haas measures it's own tools, they end up with a positive offset. And when Fusion 360 spits out the total length of the tool + holder, it's a positive number. A negative tool length is stupid because it's now a machine specific value. In the Fadal world, that measurement is literally how far the head goes down (Z-) from the tool change position to whatever you are measuring. Looking through the tool table, it's basically indecipherable what the measurement is. Like, you have a tool with a diameter of .4995" and a length of -12.7249? Makes no sense. Tool offsets should always always always be the length of the tool from the gauge line to the end of the cutter, for consistency's sake.
and if You are working on an expensive part and have done machining on the top and need to change a tool, how do You then set the new tool length? You cant do it accurately. I do something similar on My fadals. with a few differences i have a setting block about 7 inches tall that i just set all my tools on. never on the work. i them have a digital height gage just for this that is zeroed on a the setting block on the surface plate. i then place height gage on the mill and check the work height. My work offset for the z will usually be a negative number which represents the difference between the tool setting block and the work height.. Its also safe as it cuts air way up there if You forget to set
this method shown in this video is actually more sophisticated and better then my method due to the fact that tools can be set off the machine and tool tables transferred as He said from machine to machine, It takes commitment to change Your tool setting methods and to get everyone to do it. there is a big payback though as any tools in the carrousel are already set and You can count on it. it saves a lot of time .
I would recommend measuring off a 1-2-3 block or gauge block on the table as to not accidental probe the bottom of a scallop or imperfection on the table. It's probably not going to make a huge difference but that's what I do.
I like that you added the pre-Z adjustment message before modifying the Z for the fixture offset. I will have to add that to my program.
There is a plug in the back cabinet you can unplug to disable the door interlock, I have mine unpluged as I have to occasionally open the door while it’s operating
Great video, im not sure i fully understand tho
Do you need to paste the post processor in every program i run on the machine or is it a macro you can use on the machine any time ?
I've seen this technic done in a sligthly different way so im a little bit confused
I don't understand why you are using high production type setup technics? For the home shop It works so much better just to touch the tools off the part. Its fast, intuitive and gives you an exact setting. You have to measure every single tool out of the machine with your method and then type in the length. So, either way you need to measure tools. I would rather do it in the machine and have the machine log the offsets so I don't fat finger it.
You must be completely missing how this works. I don't touch tools off a part because sometimes I'll use the same tools over and over for 20 different parts in a row. If I move to a different job, suddenly I don't have a reference to touch off new or worn tools anymore. So touch them all off on the table (which never changes) and just set the work offset once per part. I don't have to type anything in, so I literally can't fat finger anything. Yeah, you have to set up all the tools in the carousel, but you only need to do that once (if you've been touching off the part before). If you've been touching off the table the whole time you don't even need to touch off the tools again. The macro or the post processor will just correct them.
Touching off the table and using your probe/indicator to locate the work offset is objectively the best way to use a CNC, touching off your part is ridiculously inaccurate, and a very bad habit to have; because forgetting to change the offset for a single tool for a new part leads to crashes, which a home shop usually cannot afford to do. it's also far more tedious than indicating the part once and hitting go.
Though, positive tool offsets is unnecessary.
@@Kitsyfluff When my Haas measures it's own tools, they end up with a positive offset. And when Fusion 360 spits out the total length of the tool + holder, it's a positive number. A negative tool length is stupid because it's now a machine specific value. In the Fadal world, that measurement is literally how far the head goes down (Z-) from the tool change position to whatever you are measuring. Looking through the tool table, it's basically indecipherable what the measurement is. Like, you have a tool with a diameter of .4995" and a length of -12.7249? Makes no sense. Tool offsets should always always always be the length of the tool from the gauge line to the end of the cutter, for consistency's sake.
and if You are working on an expensive part and have done machining on the top and need to change a tool, how do You then set the new tool length? You cant do it accurately. I do something similar on My fadals. with a few differences
i have a setting block about 7 inches tall that i just set all my tools on. never on the work.
i them have a digital height gage just for this that is zeroed on a the setting block on the surface plate.
i then place height gage on the mill and check the work height.
My work offset for the z will usually be a negative number which represents the difference between the tool setting block and the work height.. Its also safe as it cuts air way up there if You forget to set
this method shown in this video is actually more sophisticated and better then my method due to the fact that tools can be set off the machine and tool tables transferred as He said from machine to machine, It takes commitment to change Your tool setting methods and to get everyone to do it. there is a big payback though as any tools in the carrousel are already set and You can count on it. it saves a lot of time .
To complicated