Used Craftsman and MTD mower problems
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- In this video I'm going to go over popular nortorious problems that are associated
with a couple of different mowers that are manufactured by two different companies but what I'm going over will cover quite a few different models in the case of the MTD mower it will cover the brand mowers such as ace air cap Atlas Big O Bolens Central Park newer craftsman crusader cub cadet Garden King garden way Troy Bilt hardware Hank husky lawn chief lawn Hawk Lowes Malmo Mastercraft mastercut MTD pro Penn craft Power Pro Ranch king Remington Ryobi service star signature statesman Town and Country trim king turf king turf power turf pro Western Sun white outdoor wizard Wolf Garten yard boss Yard Machines and finally yardman on the Craftsman model because it is older it was made by American yard products also known as a AYP which was purchased by Electrolux and they made mowers such as rally ariens Poulan Pro weedeater and also now Electrolux has purchased Husqvarna.
One of the best videos I've seen!
You prolly dont give a shit but if you are bored like me atm then you can stream pretty much all of the latest series on instaflixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend these days =)
@Noah Kyle yup, have been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself :)
I have a 1994 LT4218 KGRO Riding mower I purchased new in 1994 at kmart store. I have had goo success with it will little trouble. I did replace transaxle 5 years ago. Simple to fix and parts are reasonable.
Unfortunatly I have the Yard Machine that you called "A Bad Machine, Bad Design" It is my first ride on mower. The thing is a beast. I turned it loose on a field of long grass and it worked great. Was hoping to learn more about how to service and maintain it. Put a deck belt on it so far. Guess I'll stick to Tarrell. He calls himself teratactyl. His videos are comical. But at least he doesn't slam the machine that many of us own.
I've had my 38" yardman for over 15 year and still running strong.
Good video I have a cub cadet 2176 it has a kohler command horizontal crankshaft v-twin with shaft drive it is a beast. It was made by MTD but is a heavy duty machine Mows and snowblows for me in winter over 1200 hours.with no major issues.
Those cubs are made like the old cub cadets were. Completely different beasts from every other machine made today.
That MTD You Showed In The Video Is The Only MTD Style I Care for
Yep, my deck is like this one.. Colombia, it's about 20 years old. works good except it doesnt stop with the key now, and can't have a higher cut.
My Craftsman was the same way. Look below the switch and see if you don't have a loose wire hanging with a plastic clip on it. There is a spare leg on the switch that ishard to see because it's below it and is a ground that the wire hooks to. The wire is black in color which is ground. Try that.
I'm sure someone has pointed out by now, but Poulan is not manufactured by MTD. It is part of the Husqvarna group which is AYP, parent company Electrolux.
As stated, SOME poulan pros were made by MTD, any Poulan thats model number began with "247".. Not for very long but, they're out there..
I have an old ranch king 14.5 hp with all of these details. And the same problems. So far i've managed to keep it running, Once i learned how. But it is not an amazing machine at all. It was my first lawn tractor, So i had no idea what to look for. I only wish i had seen this video before i bought it.
Check if the back wheels come off the axle, if so put anti-seize on the axle, cus once they rust in place they are awfully tough to remove. I've had that on 3 MTD machines...
this guy is right. every time I fix someones, I tell them to get a simplicity, jd, wheel horse, or snapper
80s silver craftsman 11hp clutch/trans problems when u get a chance it’s still running! Thanks Mitch Prospect Or
Nice vid and great honest information.
It was the carburetor, that's what was giving me all the problems. Tks
This video is 7 years old and it's now 2022 and lots of things have changed but questions, man ole man do I have questions! In fact I've had these questions with no real answers for so long that the questions themselves have brought up 2 newer questions, should you use unleaded or leaded gas to burn your 2 broken lawn mowers to the ground and just buy a goat? And can you even still buy leaded gasoline? I imagine man has pondered these things since the beginning of time!
I did learn one thing . They call it a Yard works automatic , which makes you believe , its fluid drive .Thanks .
Appreciate some help. I like to cut my grass very low - number 1 setting on my 2015 17/42 MTD 6 speed 13AV. The deck belt at this setting is at a steep angle motor pulley to RH idle pulley. Was coming off even with tight belt guide posts. I added some flat washers to lift up the RH idler pully. My question - how can I get more life out of my deck belt. They dont last long. Can I push the cutting deck rearwards. Im retired and like to save where I can. I have a lot of wear on all the steering linkages. Front axle - will drill out large worn holes and turn up a bush with a small top shoulder and press onto the round cross rod. Thanks for sharing on your video
I have had a similar model MTD mower to the one at 8:50 for about 30 years... haven't had any major issues this far. Perhaps I'm just lucky, who knows.
My old Murray 12.5 hp industrial 38” cut. Finally bit the dust. The engine has oil coming out the carb and exhaust. My rebuild it and remove the deck and just us it to pull trailer around. Deck bearings are getting hard to find for this one. They wear out every season
Try getting the numbers from the bearing seal and doing a google search for them. With bearings you don't have to get them from a lawnmower parts place.
@@kevinnoble5988 possible blown head gasket
Actually just got a Craftsman that looks exactly like that one. Seems like it's in pretty good shape, for the time being, anyway.
your deck was missing the return spring! that's why it is not disengaging!
I have a craftsman riding lawn mower that ran good yesterday, but today when I turn the key on it only clicks and won't turn over! I tried jump start, but does the same click click nothing! can anyone help trouble shoot?
My Craftsman 240 series is a hydro though. lol No, but it really is, mine only has the gas/forward/reverse peddle all in one peddle and nothing else for speed control and direction. But that craftsman is only a mower, not designed to pull anything or push anything.
But my other Creftsman, older version, is a garden tractor, it will plow the ground up, it is made for it, made to do heavy pulling and pushing. That one is a belt drive with separate gears.
I have a single cylinder 19.5 Intel Briggs when I start it first time it throws a huge plume of white smoke for about 45 seconds then clears up then it's fine all day next morning it does the same
I have a Craftsman (MTD) 1500, and the tractor itself has performed flawlessly. The problem is with the mower deck. After 4 seasons of mowing I've replaced both spindles, and have had to weld the pulley bracket, and the deck brackets. No more MTD"s for me. The metal quality of the decks is beyond poor. Even with 12 gage metal it was full of cracks.
IMO, Craftsman was more reliable when AYP/Electrolux was making them..
I have the exact same green MTD you showed in the video and I'm having an issue maybe you can help me. When I lower the cutting deck below the 5th highest position, the blades stop spinning. This occurs not when I'm cutting grass, just sitting on concrete. Any idea how to solve this? Thanks in advance
Foxboss9...I took the shepherd hook lever off (again) & made sure the safety switch did get totally depressed when the lever is disengaged. I checked again when the lever was once again in place. It does press the safety button on the safety switch completely when disengaged. I made sure the cable does engage on the deck when the lever is up & disengages when the lever is down. I made sure the battery is charged & the battery cables are clean & not corroded. & have a clean contact. They are connected properly. And again, it did start before I changed the clutch cable! What do you think? I will seek a professional if you have no further suggestions. Thank you so much....Judie
I have had two of those Briggs V -teck twin engines and both of them went bad. I went to the local mower shop. I know the guy and he is Very good, but expensive. He told me to stay away from them because of a design problem. They work ok on flat surfaces but when you go up and down hills the engines do not oil properly. And it wears out the cylinder.
My steering has become very sloppy on My very used LT 2000
Even with a new Drag link. What can I do next to solve this issue
Very useful video, thank you. However you did not cover my problem. I wonder if you can help. I have a MTD JN 200 AT, looks just like the MTD Yard machines 17 HP LT that you showed in your video, when I try to engage the cutting deck movement of the lever thro 30 degrees causes the engine to cut out, otherwise everything else seems to work properly I can drive the tractor around I just cannot cut the grass. I can move the cutters by hand and if I just rev the engine fast and repeatedly try to engage the cutters I can get then spinning but as soon as I leave the lever engaged the engine will stop. Any help will be greatly appreciated
I'm looking at a 2003 yard man rider. The seller says the engine, a 19.5 intek, isn't the original and that the transmission makes a whining noise. Any suggestions?
i found a craftsman mower at a junkyard it was badly beaten up but it has a 20 hp Opposed twin Flathead im gonna go back soon and buy the opposed twin for my Murray racing mower
i bought a 12.5 hp Flathead becasue i wasnt able to remove the opposed twin next time ill remember to bring my tool box!! lol
Wondering if you might have an Idea...The yardman in the video is very similar to my mtd with the variable pulley type transmission. There are two springs on almost opposite sides for the 3 pulleys to keep tension on it. My problem is that when you go into gear 1 it seems ok but, as you go up to 6 the pedal (brake/Clutch) won't release all the way back. You have to use your foot to bring the pedal back then the mower will start moving. Weird thing is that all of the levers and springs are all hooked up correctly I looked up a diagram. Prior to the problem one of the opposing springs broke. I simply replaced but, now the mower won't barely move because it isn't putting tension on the transmission pulleys.
+Mikayla Budzmik It sounds like the brackets the idler pulleys are mounted on may be loose or wore at their pivot points. that would cause non-linear movement.. that variable pulley system is pretty particular to belt choice too.. trple check you have the correct OEM belts on the tractor with no wear on them at all.. good luck
+Foxboss9 thanks I will try that can I try to jump it from the starter and the battery
my old mtd garden tractor wont start,,,no gas to carberater,,,,hear about back fire arrester???cant find the fuel pump(small silver rectangle at front of engine???any ideas
My craftsman T110 came with no lower deck wheels they don’t sell lower deck wheels where or what can I do to get that fixed
I have a Yard-man model 604. The trans drive tensioner spring came off. I know it hocks on the end of the idler bracket, but where does the other end go?
Took me forever to find this video but thank you.. very helpful.. i have a craftsman ride on my father n law gave me & & the clutch wont disengage..
Everytime i tried to look it it up I'd get deck wont disengage or blades dont stop... anyways, thank you & very helpful...
thanks with all you help with this issue..
:-)
The yard machine is the same thing as my 2002 troybilt except my troybilt has an 18 hp Briggs intex single it runs and cuts great
Had that deck problem with an '06 craftsman lt3000 we had to clean it and put some lubricant on it
I fully agree with every Point. Great video. Thanks.
On Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.273130 ,when engulfing the clutch to shift gears , if I push clutch in too far or all the way it disengages a pulley on the power belt and unit will not move. Not sure of anatomy of the power system or if a retention spring is missing? By fiddling with the mid area puppy unit will enguage and move normally? Sam clark
Make sure that your tension arm is tight that is connected to the pulley and moves freely fore and aft . Also make sure there is good return on the spring. It might also be time for a new belt.
Great video. I have a 2001 Craftsman L1000 with a Briggs 21hp twin and it has been a fair mower. The cut is just okay and not great by any margin. I have replace the gas tank 3 times, mower belts twice and several batteries. The engine and transmission have been good but the deck has gotten real noisy. I am
Planning on replacing this session. Once again, great video.
👍😊
What would cause the deck to impair blade speed when lowering deck? 2009 mtd yard machine. New deck shell.
I'm not sure which mower you're having the problem with if it's the MTD and your blades turn on automatically as you lower the deck then you're looking at a spring tension problem or possibly a belt issue. If it's the Craftsman that sounds like it's just a belt issue
I really wish you would have shown the PTO setup on the Yard Machines mower.
The setup looks identical to a Statesman 46" I'm working on that is missing the model number sticker under the seat and it is impossible to find any information as to which PTO belt goes on it.
I ended up putting a NAPA B63 on it which is actually a 64" belt but the only model number I can find calls for a 60" belt.
Rusty Nuckles all those PTO so pretty much the same setup. I'm not sure what I could have shown that would told you what belt you wood need. There's been many of times that I have had to find the belt that fits through trial and error.
Good video but Craftsman are MTD now. Thanks for the info your mtd is exactly like my craftsman t1200.
At the 7:30 mark - is the (new) belt suppose to bottom out on the large transmission pulley? If not, is the pulley worn out, or do I need a 5/8' belt instead of a 1/2' one? The belt slips, on the pulley, when trying to go uphill. It is a '99 Yard Machine.
The pulley is definitely not wore out. I have never seen a pulley wore out before on any of those mowers. Look up your model number which is located underneath the seat find out what belt number that you need by looking it up online and then type in that part number and see if it gives you what dimension the belt calls for.
@@Foxboss9 The belt has been replaced with the correct one. It works for maybe one mowing, then starts slipping again. I don't see anyway to tighten it, unless (just occurred to me) it can be adjusted by moving the transmission back.
Any idea if the brake caliper and pins are the same between the MTD and a Craftsman? I have an LT1000 and the caliper pins have seized, and I cannot find a Craftsman rebuild kit, but I do see MTD calipers for sale, thanks for your thoughts!
I have an MTD 38" 12 hp mower and the mower deck blade engagement system has worked reliable over all the years. On the other hand, a similar aged Murray 40" 12.5 hp mower is plagued with mower deck belt issues. Idler pulley is good, but I am concerned about the slop in the idler pulley bracket....was that designed that way? Moving the deck height layer seems to put the alignment of idler pulley and motor drive out of sync. The idler pulley outer lips seem a bit whimpy to guide the belt in place unless the blade engagement lever is engaged and the mower deck height is at mid level. Any experience with this?
Howdy, i have a question for you.. I have a 1998 Craftsman mower, 917 series... Almost identical to the one you show in the beginning of this video. Due to age, im noticing A LOT of worn put parts.. One of them being the mower deck. It has a hell of a sway (left and right) to it. How can i tighten this up? Thanks!
FiftyoneFifty yeah that becomes a problem after a while. What causes that is where those round rods go into brackets that support the deck. The holes get elongated from wear. The only thing I've been able to do in the past is ADD washers to the round rod to help keep it tight up against the bracket. The problem with that is sometimes you don't have enough room then to put the retaining clip back in. But if you can force it in there it will definitely take up some of that slop. The other thing you can do is have somebody weld the brackets holes closed and then redrill them or have someone weld on washers that will accommodate those round bars. But again you have to be conscious of how much space is left for the rod to go through the bracket and still be able to clip using that small drilled hole that the clip goes into. Whenever mowers get to that point A lot of times I just suggest to buy a new one. My father bought a riding lawn mower for $650 in 1986 and used it for many years. Whenever it started wearing in a similar manner to yours, it started nickel-and-diming him on repairs. Plus I was the one always driving 22 miles one way to fix it for him. So I finally convinced him that if he bought a new mower with my help in choosing, there would be a good chance that it would be the last mower that he would have to buy as he was 71 years old at that time. He reluctantly agreed however once he mowed the yard one time with his new hydrostatic twin cylinder engine mower he was very pleased, and tells me all the time it was one of the best decisions that he made. LOL that he made! So, it might be time for a new mower. Even though it seems like a small thing that slop that is going on you'll start having nickel and dime issues that would make it probably a wise choice to get something new instead. The best part is, just like in my father's case, he got to sell his old mower for $500. In the springtime, at least in this area, a good running mower that doesn't need anything can sell for $400 to $600 depending on what model it is. So it's kind of like a windfall getting back some of the money that you spent on the new one. Good luck!
Foxboss9 Dang it. I was really hoping it wasn't going to come to that. I was given the tractor.. It has a great and strong running 19hp briggs on it... Just spent $250 on new blades, carb rebuild and magneto.. I can live with a slight uneven cut, for now... Lol
I have the MTD Yard Machines you talked about, mine is a 1995 model 38" with the 12.5 HP synchro balanced Briggs. One of the first issues we had since we bought it new was the blade brakes, even with the blades disengaged and the belt slacked the blades still spin. Other than that the mower has worked great all these years. I am looking to sell this one and buy a newer used mower, Are there any recommendations?
thanks well done
it helped me a lot as i just purchased used yard brand,
Glad it helped out!
These videos are very good and informative.
Thanks Partner!!
Can't get gas tank off MTD 18hp twin to fix gas leak.Tank nestled up under instrument panel. Great old machine, could be 20-30 years old. There's a green bar holding in place, but instrument panel in the way. Thanks for any suggestions
Possibly may be loosening dash from frame... If 2 piece dash, maybe just the upper.... Some older models weren't designed with repairs in mind...
@@Foxboss9 I got it loose, took bolts out of green frame, from underneath chassis, flexed enough to remove tank. Thanks
I just got a used yard man the deck was very uneven so we fixed that but there is still a step effect going on when cut the grass.What could be causing this and how can we fix it?And the blades seem to stop when mowing grass that is bit high on 4 but will mow it on 5 ,our old murray would plow threw on 2 what could this be?
stephen sidwells It is an inherent problem to this style of MTD deck engagement.. You can try adding a spring to the back of deck(opposite side of what's already on there) to keep the belt tension high.... Also, make sure belt is OEM and correct.. As far as uneven cut check blade measurements from tip to ground both blades, front to rear and side to side... Your deck may be bent where the spindles mount... Check out this video here - - m.ruclips.net/video/1Td8yj4FRzY/видео.html
I have a craftsman 42" lawn tractor. It will not drive or reverse. The engine works fine, the brake is off and it is not in push mode. I have checked the belt and it is good. Any ideas?
I am sorry I love the model you hate just bought one and fixing it up I love the way it rides mine got the shifter on the fender I fixed all the slack out of the deck
thank you we will check out the belt we used a husky brand belt we got the size by measuring the old broken belt we will try one size smaller.. when you sit and idle it tries to pull we put both drive belts on it ?????????
Google your mowers model number (sticker under the seat). In the results Find a site that has parts diagrams... Look at parts diagram for drive system and get both belt numbers.. Then Google the belt numbers.. Look through the results for a listing that has belt dimensions... That way you will know exactly what size you need... As far as movement without the pedal being pushed there is an adjustment on the linkage going from the pedal to the idler bracket. You don't want to make the adjustment until you get the correct belts on there first.... Good luck..
Sorry, I was logged into my other channel when I responded... Just follow RVDaydream's(me) response
do you have any videos on installing the belt on the drive pulley and how to adjust the pedal after you install it because my pedal is too loose now , hope you have one Thanks!
Thanks for this and all your videos. Was going to buy one of these "not so good' machines. You just
saved me lots of headaches. Great stuff.
😁👍
I have a Murray that will not disengage the pulley brake before trying to engage the blades - it the belt too short, can I just cut the brake off (I don't plan on sticking my hand under the deck at any time)..
There is a chance the blades will never disengage without that brake. So that means when you're putting it in your shed or garage or loading it on your trailer or truck anytime the engine is running the blades will be running to.
@@Foxboss9 Thanks for the input.. The problem is I can't figure out how to get the brakes on the blade pullies prior to the blades engaging (it burns up belts).. I am thinking that the belt needs to be longer, so that there is no pressure from the idler pulley until long after the brakes have been released..
Thanks for sharing this video
👍😊
I have a problem, I was using my riding mower and while I was driving it stoped moving but kept the motor running and the blades. I checked if the belt fell off but it was there. what do I do?
Please can you help a 2014-15 MTD tractor will NOT go forward but will reverse !! thanks Dave.
hello. great video. i purchased a MTD 13.5 hp b&s mower with the 38" deck. I purchased a snow plow for it. I have removed the mower deck for the winter and added rear chains to it. Any recommendations on oil to run for the winter ? Also is there anything I should watch out for in cold weather? thanks! Chris
Chris M Thanks! nothing special for oil just 10w30. I have a Harbor Freight battery maintainer(about $7) I keep plugged in and attached to the mower in between plowing intervals.. Other than that engines do pretty well even when really cold out..
I have a Lawnflite 756 MTD ride-on mower. Problem is the foot pedal (clutch ) seems to be jammed and won't move except when I release the multiple gear lever the pedal shoots back about half-way . If I start the mower and put it into gear to move, there is a big bang. I only really need this now for towing a trailer so if I remove the cutting deck would this solve the problem? Any help appreciated.
You neglected to mention the problems with Type 1 steering gearing on the Craftsman.
I have a craftsman with a 18.5 single bindery and while cutting grass it just stopped. It just spins I tried starter fluid in the carb and spins but wont start. And ides
I have a Murray 40507x8A with the blade lever on the right side. The bracket came loose (didn't realize) so I held the lever forward to finish the job. Now I think I bent the spring. I'll buy another, but how does this thing go on? Thanks for any help.
We hardly have murrays in ne ohio....they didn't start selling them in large quantities until around 2010...even then they arent nearly as plentiful as the 2 mowers this video covers..
Hi, I have the same MTD you show which has a spring that came off connecting drive and braking. Can you show where this spring reattaches? Also it shifts badly while running, but easily when stopped.
Sorry I don't have any MTDs here to show where the spring attaches.. It goes from the end of the brake rod to the brake caliper lever..
+Foxboss9 Thanks pal. I appreciate it.
Just curious if you are still on and assisting with issues with a riding craftsman mower?
I have not worked on any kind of small engines for quite a few years now. Kind of a funny story but because of the success of subscribers that I've had on this channel I have actually started shooting RUclips videos and have another Channel and that is our primary source of income now. It's awful strange that the videos of repairs would actually make me more money than making the repairs themselves. Sorry I was not able to help you out in this case.
Hi I got this murray riding mower model # 40504x92 on craigslist can you tell what year and is it a good mower , it take about 2 to 5 minutes to get it to stay running . And can you tell if this mower comes with valve to adjust Thank you
Sorry, I have very limited experience with Murray.. Although sold in the Northern US, Murray was a more dominant brand in the south. You may have to find a forum that has Murray mowers being discussed in more detail then I can provide.. Good luck..
Those sliding parts on the deck are a piece of cake to fix ...all you gotta do is fill in the dime spot with weld an grind it flush with the rest of the surface. ..works perfect. ..all is cheaper to fix
Not many people have welders... Just repairmen
Thanks for the video. I have a 2014 Cub Cadet LTX 1040. While the PTO is engaged and lower the deck the blades slow down especially lower than 7 and barley spin on level1. I replaced the belt and the 2 spindles with no luck. Do you think the PTO control cable needs to bone replaced?
The cable doesnt apply tension the idler tension /return spring does.... Those components rarely fail unless broke...make sure everything is fully traveling to apply correct belt tension and most importantly double check to make sure the belt is the correct length...
Hi,
Great video. I just purchased a yard machine very similar to this green one. It's a 2001 46". It has this pedal speed control and to me it seems like most of the initial pedal travel doesn't do anything and it doesn't really move until the end of travel. Is this normal? Something to look at as far as an adjustment? Belts? Any help is much appreciated.
Try a new belt first.
I have a Craftsman GT6000 w/19.5 Kohler Magnum. Recently it won't turn over to start unless it's in gear.Is there a neutral safety switch on the trans as well as the brake/clutch? The electric PTO is off and safety seat is working properly
Mr Frog if so it would be on the shift lever where it enters the Transaxle..
put new upper and lower drive belt on our 1999 mtd yardman. runs ok on flat ground but when you try to go up a small slope it spins out any ideas ?????
Tires spin out? If so, make sure rear tire pressure is 10-12 lbs at the most. You may need more aggressive tire tread pattern like a "chevron" design. Or if you are in a muddy or snow climate wheel weights and chains may need to be installed..
That red MTD towards the end that you don't like, I just aquired one on a trade and the blades won't disengage. There's not enough headache medicine for this design. Any tips? It's a 42 inch deck coast to coast model number 134M673G054 Year 1990. Previous owner replaced the belt with an aftermarket belt. Will that do it?
I have a complete other video on that.. Check my Playlist
Question. Just inherited a LT 1000 16HP Kohler OHV. Didn't work. Replaced parts and finally got the engine to work. Drove it in yard. Forced shepherds hook into place to turn blades.....and now the mower will not move.
It does nothing with clutch out.
Neither forward nor Reverse.
Any suggestions would help so I can stop mowing two acres with push-mower.
Sounds like belt came off...
You were right. The belt is loose because a bottom part of the stationary idler broke off so the belt can't stay in position.
I will work to replace that and get back with you with future issues.
Like, I see the bottom part of a rust spring hooked below that but it's busted so. Don't know where a new one would connect.
One step at a time I guess.
yes its me again,took the deck off the mower, and the problem is not the spindle,they all turn smothly,why I thought it was catching it is the brake engaging when I was turning the spindlewhat else might be the problem. thanks
make sure the engagement levers(spring tensioner) is working smoothly.. It could be that even though you have engaged the lever at the dash the mechanism onthe deck is wore and not allowing the blades to get fully engaged..
the mower is just on its fourth season of mowing,and its a push down leaver by the seat,when it does mow seems like it isnt cutting properly..we got it new from sears,lol
Gregory Dent At This point I would probably say try to get someone to take a look at it...since it's so new there may be something that was never assembled quite right originally... You may find a repair person that can just look at it for 5 minutes and see why the deck engagement is hindered but I'm not aware of any other obvious,well known issues that may cause what your experiencing.. Let me know what you find out though.. As a mechanic I am curious..👍😁
thanks for all your help with my issue.
hello, I have an mtd just like the green one you are showing. I have a problem, the mower has been running fine...but after it gets hot the engine dies. Now suddenly, the engine will die as soon as I try to engage the blades. Any idea what could be the problem?
Dennis Allen safety switch.. Most likely on the seat
Mine does the exact same thing! Hopefully it proves to be that simple. Too early to check right now, but it seems the mower would not be allowed to start if the switch wasn't registering my weight.
It that! OMG... now it sounds seems like I sharpened the blades out of balance, and I still have to put inner tubes in the dry rotted tires. That what I get for buying a 20 yo $100 mower... if I take any longer, I'll need a hay baler.
Nice video. Unfortunately, I have the type of Yard machine that you mentioned to stay away from. It's a 2004 MTD Yard Machine 38" cut, 12.5 HP. No problems with the mower deck or blades. My problem is it just stopped one afternoon, it just stopped moving. I tried all forward & reverse positions. Nothing in the belt pulleys. No cotter pins missing. Etc.. And It won't free wheel. Brake seems to work fine. Thoughts???
Thanks Jeff
Jeff Poquette i have same problems
@@vanhieptrinh1942
Van,
It's usually the brake pads in the back. One is sticking. Find a video that shows the removal of the brake or emergency brake pretty simple.
I have a sear tractor 17.5 OHV blowing tons white smoke, it not gas in oil problem. What should I look for ?
Frank DeSalvo double check your fuel. Make sure you didn't accidentally put kerosene or diesel or something in there with gas. If your fuel is fresh white smoke could be oil that's got into the exhaust. You have to find out why it got to the exhaust. Could be a valve stem seal. Or it could be that the oil was overfilled.
Late in answer here but it may help someone else. It may be a blown cylinder gasket the part between the valve push rods and the cylinder can blow and suck oil into the cylinder. Sometimes this will also allow oil into the vacuum operated fuel pump if your gas tank is in the rear and not under the hood.
Great video. I have a Craftsman 18.5 hp, OHV, DYT, Intek Plus, auto transmission riding lawnmower. I am NOT able to manually push it. I don't know yet if the mower actually runs. I can't push it out of my trailer because it will not roll. I put it in the neutral position and disengage the lever for the transmission disengagement, but it will NOT roll. When I jack up the rear wheels, the wheels will spin freely - in opposite directions. Do you have any suggestions or possible ideas of what is wrong? Thanks John R.
john r. Stuck brakes .. If it is an internal brake then it is an issue.. If there is a disc on the outside just see why it is jammed up...
Foxboss9 I have a similar problem with my craftsman rider model 917. I started it ran it up to my jeep about 75' away and turned it off to fill the tire that always goes flat. Got back on it and nothing, a click, and after setting the push lever in proper place it won't roll ( I was trying to roll it in the shade to figure out the no start click. What should I be looking for? I am a 62 yr old old female new leg amputee and this is definitely putting me into unnecessary pain and frustration. Any help you could offer I would greatly appreciate.
Foxboss9 BTW, I've had the mower lifted on a block and the wheels do spin, the engine is not seized up, I checked the oil, I checked the seat safety switch, the pto, the trans is in neutral, and the battery has a full charge (had it tested). The parking lever...I've never touched that thing.
I have the "stay away from mower" and have had zero problems...may because I take care of all my stuff properly?...I notice that some of these mowers are kinda cruddy looking
Could be.. I worked different shops throughout the country and it makes a big difference how much mowers have to work in different States. Florida for example eats through blades like nothing I have ever seen and Rural Ohio has farmers that mow lawns that use to be fields and put a hurt on suspension. City dwellers have neighborhood wars on who has the thickest and greenest grass so the Chemlawn guy is making their grass like carpet and mowers definitely don't like cutting thick carpet.. The owner of both these mowers bought them new and cuts roughly 4 acres of extremely hilly terrain(my 2wd f150 almost got stuck on perfectly dry grass) He keeps them in a dry bank barn during the off season(that is pretty typical for this part of the country.)
Like I mentioned there will be people out there that get lucky with ownership But from my experience, it's the exception not the rule. Glad to hear yours is still treating you good.. :-)
I just subscribed and you're right about if you take care of your stuff it'll take care of you. I am a truck driver/equipment operator and know a little grease and oil is cheaper than parts. I like your stuff because you don't cuss and raise cain. A-PLUS!
thanks partner! appreciate your viewing and support😀
Foxboss9 I'll be back.
I'm sorry but i know a bunch of people on golf courses, and on the city who can mow professionally with a craftsman then any cub cadet, yard man, lawn general, ford, extetra... I have a 2001 craftsman lt1000 42 inch deck with the 20hp Briggs and Stratton and it is a beast it will go through anything and it does just as good if not better then any riding mower period I do not agree with anything you say in this other then they do need to be well maintained... I got my craftsman LT1000 brand new in 2001 and never ever had any problems with the deck or the way it cuts and I most deffinatly never had any problems getting my craftsman to start ever... yes I have had to replace belts once a year cause I use the shit out of my craftsman LT1000 but when you mow as much as I do your going to be doing alot of maintenance which includes greasing checking oil changing belts excerra... but in my opnion this guy is wack and knows nothing about mowers. If your truly taking care of your mower and giving it its general maintenance you'll catch all of what hes talking about and you can get it fixed before it gets in the crap condition this guy let his poor craftsman get in... a daily routine takes 10 minutes check your oil levels check your gas levels check the tension on the deck belt and drive belt make sure their not too tight or too loose pull the blades off sharpen them (I put a stream of oil across the blades edges on my mower to keep my blades from rusting out) 10 minutes all it takes and your craftsman and or any lawn tractor will last up to so much longer... just always remember your lawn tractor needs daily TLC too... if any of you have any questions on your lawn tractors I do restore and rebuild lawn tractors on the side when I'm not working my part time landscaping job and my full time welding job. But if you have any questions shoot me a text message on here. Dont go looking to guys like this who dont know how to take care of a lawn tractor to begin with (which that is what I can guarentee all his problems with this guys lawn tractors is due to insufficient TLC to his lawn tractor)
That yard machine you have, the one at 4:15 mark I think we have that type of mower. Can you please tell me what alternator I can buy and the voltage regulator as well. part number and the amazon link ? The sticker under the seat says model number 13BK608G129 I cant seem to find anything.
You need to get the numbers off the engine blower housing and call local mower shop...
Foxboss9 I live in a small ass town there is no local mower shop. Can you find the link for me on Amazon ? I gave you the is number
Foxboss9 it’s the same one you shown in the video
great video. straight forward , comments, no B'S. thankyou
👍😁
I have an old Weedeater tractor similar shift system as the first craftsman that you showed. The clutch and brake seem to be moving ok but the shift lever is extremely difficult to move. Once in gear it moves smoothly. I can't find any info anywhere online. Can you help? It appears to be a 6 speed pearless transmission.
The only thing that would cause that to be difficult to move is Wear or corrosion/rust...
Em Lorentz if it was left outside for any length of time, water can run down the shifter shaft and enter the transmission. there's just a felt seal on the shaft, and it fails fairly quick. water gets mixed with the grease and sludges up the trans, and it causes rust to form on the gears and shafts.
Have this style drive on a yardman. Replaced the belt, now it still moves even when the pedal is not pressed.(forward and reverse) How is that adjusted?
Well let me first start off by saying if you did not buy MTD belts then you most likely will have problems. If you did replace it with MTD brand belts then the only adjustment that is available is going from the pedal back to the actuated idler pulley that is connected to a common bracket. You have to remove the rod that runs from the pedal back to that bracket and spin it and whatever direction is necessary to loosen it up. Also make sure that you didn't accidentally put the belt on the outside of a guide which won't show up immediately but within mowing half of a yard will burn the belt up.
Foxboss9 I did not use my belt. I will try to adjust as you suggested. I will order the correct mtd belt, if necessary. Thanks for replying
I just changed the deck drive belt and now my deck hits the right back tire
I have the green Yard Machine mower you used in this video. I'm having some problems. Sometimes, the mower will not go out of forward or reverse with the gear and continues to move without my foot on the pedal. This is an intermittent problem and is resolved when I shake the mower while I'm sitting on it. The other problem I have is the deck shifter will not engage at times. If I bring the shifter up to 5, it will come one and I can then lower the deck and mow. Any suggestions?
Check to ensure belt is being fully disengaged when the pedal is depressed...may need new belt if the mower does not have any adjustment for pedal travel..Sounds like the deck engagement(on deck) needs lubricated or the mechanism is wore and hanging up..
I have a model 608 MTD, fresh gas, hoses are good. I can prime the carb and it will start but won't keep running unless i drip gas into the carb. There is fuel in the line up to the carb. Any Idea's on what I can do with that problem?
Take it to heart, ......100% ...It is the carb.. Either needs cleaned,rebuilt or replaced
I have a Craftsman 2, 12 hp B&S with Hydrostatic transmission. The transmission just seemed to pile up, almost burned the belt off. I admittedly know zero about these things. Any ideas?? I'm lost.
Make sure your brake is not stuck on. Other than that it could be that the hydrostat is starting to fail
What about one that is throwing deck belts?
Could be numerous amount of things. Deck hangers, deck adjustment, bad pulleys, bent spindles, bad bearings, bent blades, bent deck, bad belt, bad idler, missing tension spring, missing belt guides , misadjusted belt guides ... there is no quick answer for that one you just have to figure out why it's coming off. The easiest thing to start with is putting on a brand new belt. The right belt. The OEM belt. Or something that is dead on the exact same size as the OEM belt. Don't go off the belt number that is currently on there make sure you look up your model with the correct horsepower engine and the correct size deck and get that belt. Some manufacturers put the part number underneath the hood in big numbers.
My mower is the DLT3000, 2005 18.5. I changed the clutch cable because it broke. With the new cable in, it is very hard to push the lever up the shepherds hook to engage the blades. Also when I turn the key, nothing happens, no sound, no start, nothing. It started just fine before I changed the clutch cable. I charged the battery just in case that was the problem. It wasn't. I was wondering if I might have loosened the ignition when I was changing the clutch cable? Is there something going on with the clutch cable that may be keeping the mower from starting that I can check? What do you suggest, you seem to be quite knowledgeable! I would appreciate your help. Due to financial necessity, I must repair my mower myself....thank you Judie
hitchhiker it's a safety switch issue most likely... The mower will stay dead unless the mower deck engagement lever is fully disengaged and making contact on the safety switch... That allows the mower to start knowing that the blades are not on.
Foxboss9...WOW, thank you for answering so fast..My grass is getting very deep. Where is that safety switch located so I can check that out? Or what does it look like? I should ask...can you give me a clue what to look for. I appreciate your time..Judie
I had someone give me a 1998 statesman (MTD) with the 20hp opposed twin briggs. Been working on it and carburetor was trashed. Victim of ethanol gas and sitting for 2 years. Cleaned it all out, adjusted the needle and seat so float would sit level and cleaned jets. Put it back together and it started but its flooding real bad. I'm just wondering if maybe someone had been there before me and opened that jet up too much while cleaning. Or maybe the needle and seat are letting too much fuel in the bowl and causing the flooding. What are your thoughts?
I'm assuming that you have adjusted the carburetor correctly . Make sure the needle and seat and Float are all doing their job. I'm assuming you're talking about it flooding out while sitting? If you're talkin about it flooding out while running, 99% of the people that work on mowers don't bother with opening Jets and just cleaning a jet won't make it any bigger. It was not uncommon for those opposed cylinders to have problems with valve seats.
@@Foxboss9 Its flooding while running. Black smoke out of the exhaust. I have the exact same engine on my 1998 craftsman and it runs great. This motor actually has pressure lubrication with a spin on oil filter. The high speed jet is a fixed jet non adjustable and it is sending too much fuel into the intake causing the flooding. Just trying to fix it up to sell not looking to put a lot of $ in it. Oh and it has that weird blade engagement system you explained in the video. Still works surprisingly. Thanks for your help
I have a Craftsman Lt 1000 and the drive belt has broken after nearly 8 years of great service. I installed a kevlar replacement belt that was made to replace the oem specs and what I am noticing now is that once the engine is running and you engage a specific speed, it becomes impossible to switch to any other speed or neutral even with the clutch pedal completely depressed. In order to switch speeds, I need to stop the engine and then move the gear shift lever to the specific speed and then come off the clutch. I am assuming that once the transmission pulley has completely stopped turning by the engine being off, this allows the gear shift to move. My question is should the clutch pedal completely release the tension on the drive belt when depressed. I noticed that when the parking brake / clutch is depressed and locked with the gear shift in neutral the drive belt still turns the transmission pulley. I would think that a fully functioning clutch pedal would allow the tensioner to completely release tensiion on the drive belt allowing me to switch speeds. I am going to take the new belt off and measure the od length to verify that the manufacturer sent me the correct length. I know it is routed correctly, but the tension on it seems tight even with the clutch pedal depressed. A closer look at the linkage of the clutch pedal doesn't seem to show any way of adjustment. What do you think? Belt tension problem or is something hanging up inside the gear driven transmission that will not release while the transmission pulley is spinning? Thanks in advance.
You have to adjust the belt guides to allow the belt to slacken and remove itself from the pulley surface anywhere that there are belt guides. the ones that are by the PTO pulley underneath the engine and the ones that are on the back near the transaxle input pulley if equipped. You have to play around with the adjustment of the belt guides.
@@Foxboss9 Thanks for your reply. I will look closely at the belt guides and see what I can adjust.
@@Foxboss9 Just to let you know....the problem with the drive belt on the Craftsman LT 1000 drive belt is the fact that belt manufacturers who provide a 95" belt as a replacement for the specified craftsman belt 160855 will experience the same problem as I have. This machine needs an exact 95.5" length belt or gear shifting will not be possible. There is no mechanism to compensate for a shorter belt...maybe if the belt is longer the tensioner mechanism will compensate. Now I am waiting for the correct length belt to arrive.
I have that exact model for the Yard Machine. It takes about 10 seconds to start but once it does it runs great. Any idea as to why this might be? Doesn’t bog down or anything as it tries to start.
Adjust the cable setting to allow the choke to fully engage
Thanks. I hate adjusting carbs so I’ll check to make sure I’m doing this right. If I turn the throttle all the way up before starting should the butterfly valve be closed?
I think I figured out the issue. I thought it was an automatic choke but it has a manual choke...that the knob is broken off of. I bought this mower the day I sent the first message and I’m still learning this machine. Anyway, do you have advice on setting the manual choke when I install the new part next week?
I have a Yardman MTD1642 which is a mid to late 90's year model which was given to me from my friend, unfortunately i cant read the Serial # from the back of the machine as the paper sticker has worn over time. The mower cuts great but I am looking for a bagger for it as I had a Stroke 4 yrs ago. Any help new or used would be most appreciated!
Last time I checked(4 years agao) TSC stores were still selling MTD baggers that would work..
The tractor shown at 3:00 with the reverse smiley face shifter. Can anybody tell me the about the transmission type and name? Is it a variable speed pulley type setup like a mtd 600 series or does the lever actually change gears in a real transmission? Thanks