Top 5 Methods of Rusting Metal
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- And yes I realize that I say "Mill Spec" not mill scale. My mistake, just got a bit tongue tied with my words. :)
In this video I will go over the top 5 methods of rusting metal in my shop. I would also say that one method in particular might just be the fast method of rusting metal known to man!
A large portion of the metal work I do in my shop comes from my custom metal sliding doors. And I would say the main reason I sell so many is due to the type of rusting I use on the doors. Everything from deep dark colors to lighter earthy colors.
If you're interested checking out more of the doors I make then visit me at the following websites below:
www.artfullyrog...
www.etsy.com/s...
/ artfullyrogue
Thank you so much for the tips! I've been looking for a way to consistently do rust bluing on steel parts like tools and firearms, and have expended a lot of resources and time into it, so you saved me a lot of future research and money.
My pleasure Matt glad it was useful
I've been playing chemist with all these chemicals in different ratio's as well as mixing and matching for some time now. Being a purist I wanted to see if I could manipulate the patina to become whatever color or intensity I wanted at that given time for that given project. The mixture that I found works the best and gives a wide array of colors from greenish turquoise to reds, to yellows, to purples.......you get the picture, was something I've named "Uncle Pappi's Elixir"......Don't ask me why I named it that, maybe the fumes got to me a little more than usual that day....lol. Anyways, in a 2 gallon plastic jug (something you'd put ice tea in that you'd buy at the Dollar General) cover the bottom 3-4 inches with epsom salt, you can't really put to much of the epsom in I've found other than if you put to much in all of it won't dissolve. I have found to little epsom though won't give as good as results in how it works. If you find all the salt having a hard time completely dissolving pour some of it out into another container and top it off with distilled water. As you use the solution you can pour what you poured off back in and it works fine. Next to that add 1/2-3/4 cup of muriatic acid (important you add the muriatic at this stage and not at the end. Adding to the jug after you have already put the vinegar and distilled water in can and will cause it to boil violently out of the jug and it would be a bad deal getting this on you or in your face. Always add acids to a formula they are called in first before any other liquid.) 1 gallon of white vinegar, 1 24-32oz bottle of hydrogen peroxide, and top the rest off with distilled water (distilled water actually gives better results than just using tap or even regular bottled water). I then take a handful of scrap copper whether it be tubing or sheet and cut it up so it can fit in the jugs opening. Make sure you clean the copper well getting any grime, oils or grease off it before adding. Put the lid on the jug, shake well and let everything get happy together overnight. I have a 55 gallon drum I split and added grates to sit smaller items on and you can either pour the solution directly on whatever it is your patina'ing or you can add to a spray bottle and apply by spritzing. The important thing is be generous. You want complete saturation. At this point you can press it like you showed in the video with another piece of steel or I've gotten some awesome results using some hybrid metals like magnesium, zinc, brass, silver, tin, cast, etc layered between the metal being patina'd and something heavy. Aluminum just overpowers the whole process and turns everything black. The sweet spot leaving it pressed seems to be 24 hrs and at that point depending on how intense or the colors you are trying to bring out are start spritzing the metal alternating between distilled water and the solution letting it completely dry between each spritzing. It seems any patina formed within 48 hrs of the first application just hasn't had enough time to bite and can either flake off easy or wipe off even when sealed. Temperature and humidity play a huge roll on both the colors you get and the amount of time it takes to get a good etched in patina. The warmer and more humid the heavier the patina and the more vivid the range of colors are. The process also happens in half the time. I live in Montana and this process takes twice as long in the winter than in the summer but I can't get the intensity of colors in the winter either like I do in the summer. Another neat look this mixture makes is it forms crystals withing the patina and rust from the epsom salt solidifying after it dries. I've tried using every other salt you can buy and none of them work as well rusting or recrystalize like the epsome does. I have kept a note book documenting temp, humidity, if I've used a different brand in the chemicals I used in the solution or if I may have changed the mix ratio slightly, tried a different application, tried adding something or omitting something. You get the point. All of us know how to rust things and do it quick if needed. I however wanted to see if I could do what mother nature can do, know what it was that I did to make it and know I did it without using dyes, paints, oils, or synthetics that often truly look fake or like they were painted. Once the stuff is applied you can speed the process up and get a more intense look by covering with some plastic sheeting to keep it from drying out so fast the first few days will speed things along giving a more intense finish. When you figure out what all the different environmental factors or things you can do to cause such drastic differences it really does add a lot of fun to the process. One thing that can cause grief is any scale, oil, or grease that can come off your hands or wasn't cleaned off the metal very well will cause issues and I can attest nothing can be more frustrating than when you cant get the process to work the same way the next time you do it like it did the previous time though. Especially if its from simply not cleaning it thoroughly. However if you pay attention to what you did and used I've found 70-75% of the time you can get what you are after though. One last thing, once this stuff has time to get mixed and marinate properly it will look just like windex glass cleaner so if you put it in a spray bottle make sure you mark accordingly. This stuff is very corrosive and just the fumes can start corroding things if its left to fume from its jug without the lid. Keep the lid on if you don't want other things to get affected. The reply was long I know but I wanted to share my findings and hope it can help those of you looking to get more out of their patina'd finishes. If you have questions feel free to ask. Thanks, Michael J.
Wow thanks for sharing Michael! It's interesting you mention how hot and cold affects the outcome. Living in Arizona, my summers create much richer colors much faster for sure. I'll have to try " Uncle Pappi's Elixir"
I meant to ask, have you found anything that will rust stainless?
@@ArtfullyRogue I found if you use the old uncle pappy's soaked 0000 steal wool and cover the stainless with gives a interesting look. Let me know what you think when you try these.
What about galvanized corrugated roofing? Can you guys tell me the quickest way to rust that? Also, I saw a guy use muriatic acid and then ammonia to neutralize it and stop the rusting process. Do either if you have experience with that?
Fantastic! Thanks so much for sharing your experiments. I'm thinking of doing a large corrugated fence (8'x150'), and don't plan on sealing it - I'll just let it continue to rust. Given the large scale of the project, any tips on how to best process all those sheets?
I have used vinegar and peroxide on cleaned metal. I'm definitely not a chemist but it's my understanding that the acids (muriatic or vinegar) are acting as etchants to clean the surface and the peroxide is the source of abundant oxygen ions to make iron oxide (rust). I have used lacquer as sealants in the past but found that in some cases the rusting process continues even if I've applied a baking soda wash to neutralize the surface. I'm now using Flood Penetrol to neutralize the rust and seal in one step.
Steve Ulrich I'll look into Flood Penetrol for sure. The door that's in my shop was sealed with Deft a year ago and I've not seen any real noticeable changes but I'm in Phoenix where humidity is low. I'm curious how it would do on the east coast. luckily I've not had any east coast client call to say their door rusted apart yet☺
Gulf coast, Texas. Humidity? we got it! I was using Deft's (or Minwax) brushing lacquer product. The finish lasted for several months indoors but eventually developed a light dusting of surface rust. A quick swipe with steel wool and another coat or two or lacquer and called it good. The Penetrol has a slight sheen to it. Dries slowly (hours) but can be wiped on with a rag with little chance of runs. It's meant to be an additive to paint to aid in use on metals outdoors BUT it can also be used stand alone. Give it a try. Like your channel. thanks!
Just found your channel, love the pointer you used in the beginning 🤣
Awesome! Thank you!
Beautiful, Doug!
Thank-You for sharing those tips!
Thanks for watching Shelly and you are very welcome
Hi,
I have a newbie question, once you seal the sheet with the wood sealant. How reactive or protective is it to other chemicals if they come in contact with the material (after sealing).
I want to use this technique in a hairdressers.
Tha ks
Honestly, I'm not sure. I would guess if it comes into contact with any harsh chemicals, like acid or acetone etc., the clear coat would be eliminated. A paint on epoxy might be a bit more durable in a situation where chemicals might be used on a daily basis.
Hi! Nice video. I want to make a backsplash with galvanized metal sheets and rust them. Does muriatic acid and peroxide works on galvanized steel? Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed response, you would need to remove the galvanization first before you can rust the metal
Good information neighbor.. I’m seeking to put a patina on galvanized conduit so if you have any ideas or can steer me in another direction I would appreciate... thanks
Just grind off the galvanization and you'll have no problems getting the patina look you want
Great advice and I've been using the muriatic acid and hydrogen peroxide method with fantastic results. I am a woodworker and make wooden cradled panels for artists. One of my clients asked me to cut strips of metal and rust them for her. She loved the results I got. One question though. Do you store the muriatic acid in a pump sprayer? I left some in a spray bottle but it ruined the spray bottle right away. Just wondering if there is a certain kind of sprayer you use for that purpose. Thanks so much for your videos!
I forgot to mention that I find heat to be an advantage. Where I live, it gets cloudy and cold for about 1/2 the year. I tried rusting on a cloudy "cool" day and didn't get the same results I did the week before when it was in the hot sun. I just tried it again today and since I don't have the weather for heat, I put a space heater on the metal after I sprayed it. It's turning out SWEET. I think it might help.
I've ruined several pump bottles in the past. Now I just make a point of clearing the pump portion of the bottle directly after using it. I've been able to use the same bottle now for about a year
Heat works great! I live in Arizona, so in the summer I rust my sheets nearly in one day as opposed to our winters which it may take several days to get the level of rust I desire
@@ArtfullyRogue awesome! Thanks!
New viewer here. Love your work and videos. I want to rust/age some cheap galvanized metal buckets for outdoor planters. Do have a recommendation for a sealer to protect against the elements? Thanks, Johnna :)
Thanks a ton Johnna! I use a spray on lacquer clear coat from a company called Deft which I pick up from Home Depot.
Thanks so much!
How are they holding up Johnna?
Why do many videos say 'white' vinegar/ How is it better?
Also, please watch 'How to rust metal quickly' by Steve Hall
I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say "How is it better?" Better than what? Personally I use vinegar because it's cheap, easy to get and I get great results with it for what I'm doing. What Steve shows in his video, is one method to rust metal which I've used before. However when I want a method that is quick, I use muriatic acid and peroxide.
Artfully Rogue Sorry mate, how is white vinegar better than brown vinegar or apple cedar vinegar?
vinger?
316 grade will save you money long run.
I'll check it out, thanks
Fire on some oil based lecethin capsuls and Bam! There forever.
That sounds interesting!
Equal parts bleach and apple cider vinegar work extremely fast as well.
I'll have to try it out. I've never mixed the two
"Proven, and they work". Redundant. "Meureeattic" acid. "Vinger"?
take a bucket of sea water.simple
Haha right! I'm sure i can run right down to the Arizona beach and get a bucket full of that. Ot maybe they sell it on Amazon ;)
After misting with vinegar I'll mist with water and it'll rust a lot faster. Also if you apply vinegar and water in different intervals it'll produce different colors. Great video!
I appreciate the extra tips Lee :)
Lee Sisson that’s awesome thanks
"Mill spec" is military specifications.
"Mill scale" is what he's meaning to say.
Thanks Doug, thanks for sharing your tips. I certainly will try a few of the techniques.
Scott Turner thanks for watching Scott
I usually just throw mine kn a river in come back in 5 years.
😄perfect! That works like a charm!
Oh cool throw shit in the river with the rest of the trash people dump in there thanks a bunch asshole
Cool doors. A respirator is a must with the muriatic acid - way more important then the gloves. It's easier to wash your hands then your lungs. As someone with lung damage I had to mention this.
I hear you on the respirator, I've made a more focused effort to wear it when dealing with acid
I’ve used muriatic acid to remove mill scale, I actually submerge it since it’s smaller parts. If I don’t neutralize it, I will get some serious rust in no time. I haven’t considered leaving it for a patina. I love the idea for some future projects.
Yeah either painting or spraying on the acid then spraying on peroxide creates a quick rust. And it will continue to do its thing if you leave it for a few days, it goes darker with more color variation
When I get the color like, before I seal it I tend to wash it with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Then apply a sealer.
Thank you so much for this video! Would the vinegar pressed method work on galvanized corrugated metal? Got a bathroom project coming up after the holidays and would like to use it for a wainscoting.
In order to rust anything galvanized, you'll need to remove the galvanization that protects the steel from rusting
Very interesting... After your confession about your year old lemon juice I’m going to assume you didn’t squeeze any lemons. But oh my God, l almost choked on my coffee when you made your “Sound effect” after the lemon juice fail! I also, loved the way you used a work glove 🧤 to make your pointer! Too funny!
No lemons squeezed...at least not by my hands :) I used the lemon juice in the bottle
What about painted metal? I have 2 white color plaques I want to rust a bit on edges for a craft project. Paint is hard to find that will adhere to metal. Thank you.
The best paint for metal is an oil based paint. And the metal must be cleaned with alcohol or mineral spirits, then lightly sanded with sand paper then cleaned again and then you're ready for painting
Hydrogen peroxide and salt works great! No acid needed
Hi, will this work on stainless steel? I have a kettle I'd like to age and finding it difficult to get the information I need to just do this as a home project. Thanks in advance :)
I haven't found anything that will rust stainless in the same manner
You should wear a respirator when using muriatic acid. The fumes it gives off is CAUSTIC! Very hard on the lungs.
yeah its some nasty stuff for sure
Doug, thank you! I’m just a hobbyist with welding and I only ever painted stuff before. I can’t wait to try to finish something more creatively and cool like your works. You’re an awesome artist and an awesome human for helping others! Sending good karma your way. 🙂👍
Thanks Gary greatly appreciated😊😊
Any tips on rusting stainless ?? I want to rust steel wedding bands but I can only find them in stainless
For the most part stainless won't rust. However, because I've built projects and didn't want them to rust, somehow I've managed to still find a way. It's not easy, but you need to use a grinder flap wheel on mild steel so the steel "powder" embeds itself into the flap wheel. Then use that same flap wheel on stainless. The steel powder, transfers to the stainless and its the steel powder that makes it look like the stainless is rusting. You're working with something very small so another way I managed to get stainless to rust was to, again grind or sand the stainless to "open the pores" so to speak, then place the stainless in a bag an drop in a rag with some pool acid, then close the bag. Over time the acid will begin to rust the stainless. I did this with an old stainless milk carton. Hope this helps.
Vinagre vermelho é expetacular e barato, uma dica para seu ratlook ou ratcustom, portas, etc ... ❤❤❤
Realmente disfruto trabajar con vinagre y observar las texturas frescas en el óxido que crea.
One suggestion is of course salt water, might take few days, but it gets the job done :)
Hi after the process Are use vinegar peroxide sea salt mixture do you recommend to rinse it off before you clear coat it
As long as you've given the mixture enough time to really secure itself to the metal then I'd rinse however I pour water over the surface as opposed to using a hose with even low pressure. Then I'll let it dry and clear coat the surface
Hi Doug It looks great job,
I Will certainly try It,
Just a question di you think this technique can be used on bathroom Vanity steel? Do you have a tip for a strong waterproof sealer?
Thanks Stefano
This process seems to work on all mild steel without mill scale. Although I haven't used it yet, I hear Penetrol works really well. It's paint additive but used by itself is a very effective sealer. RIght now I've been trying different two part auto clear coats but nothing jumps out as being great over rust without applying multiple coats
Thanks Doug i Will try to find Penetrol in local market as im in Italy.
Hi Doug,
My method is similar and works very well. I use mainly vinegar with the addition of a little peroxide and a bit of salt. It works a treat!
I've actually never had salt do much for me. I might have to play around with it again
Artfully Rogue salt makes the rust patina lighter orange color as metal crystals (rust) mixes with salt crystals. But the more salt you have the more porous patina will be and more easier to break off the surface.
I had to seal with 50% xylene diluted concrete sealer to preserve texture and bond better to metal surface.
Do you get teal with this?
man, this is awesome... thank you so much for this video! I'm a student in architecture and really wanna put metal on some of my walls but have no money to pay someone to do it. so I will do this on some cheap metal myself :) thank you!
Excellent I love the idea of doing it yourself. So glad my video will help with that.
You should consider using Everbrite UV Protective Clear Coat to seal rusted metals. It is a flexible coating unlike a lacquer which will ultimately crack and peel off as the lacquere will not expand and contract with the hot and cold weather. Very important to neutralise the surface of any acids and ensure BONE DRY before applying any coating. Otherwise the steel will continue to rust under the coating - and this will cuse any coating to lose adherence. A spray or wipe down with acetone is also recommended before applying the first coat.
Thanks for the video. Others say if you clear coat ONLY, the coating will eventually start to peel. They suggest using Flood PENETROL then clear coat with oil based, not water based (water over oil doesn't stick). Your thought on this?
I've never used penetrol but also haven't had any peeling issues to date that I can think of
Just found your channel today. I was needing to fast rust something I made for the wife. THANK YOU BRO!!
I love your channel. I subscribed.
Totally appreciate the sub browill9
Sorry folks I forgot this link -Mitchell uses offcuts of copper wire-might be something to try --ruclips.net/video/trGH5MfIfWQ-/видео.html-, note- some guys have mentioned humidity-this may well be a local factor on how good methods work where you are.
thank you very much for this vid.
i want to make a shower with rusted, metal walls. i think you rusted metal looks great and would fit the bill perfect. once the rusting in complete, prob 24-36 hr range from what i saw, would coating it with the deft finish allow the metal to be hung in a shower environment?
thank you again for your vids. cheers...j-
If you're using the metal in the shower I woukd probably use a paint on clear coat for a better seal coat
@@ArtfullyRogue thank you so much for the reply. i'm in PHX also, on South Mountain, hence SoMo. i hope to swing by your studio in the next few weeks. thank you for your time and vids Sir. cheers, j-
@@somorider587 stop by anytime 👍
Can I use the muriatic acid and peroxide on stainless steel sheet metal, not to rust per se, but to give it an interesting finish? Also should I neutralize it before sealing it? Thanks!
I havent had much luck with it on stainless
Hi Doug, I'm in the process of using your White Vinegar process for rusting some corrugated material for a client project. The vinegar works really fast and I'm pleased with the results so far. My question as to do with "stopping the process". Do you rinse your metal with water on other solution prior to applying your top coat sealer? Thanks for your informative videos.
On my doors i simply apply the clear coat because i dont want water seeping into the interior. Something like the water feature I build, yes I'll rinse with water first then clear coat, but with the water feature, I'm using acid and peroxide which is more aggressive than vinegar
Good job! Thank you for that! Very familiar with the message, however, the way you demonstrated, was excellent and highly comprehensible. Thanks for teaching people! I have other message I use as well. But yours are awesome. Keep up the great work. Stay well and have a beautiful day.👍🙏
Thanks a ton for the comment
You can also add blowpipe heating to give color variations and faster rusting
I'll have to check that out for sure thanks Claudio
I heated metal before and also after applying the peroxyde, and then plunge it into water to cool it fast and remove the smaller dusty rust, there are possibilities to test...
I'm looking for ideas which caused the steel of the twin towers to oxidise so quickly. Obviously the buildings weren't oxide jacked apart using acids.
Very impressive patina creation skills though, l love ferrous oranges as an artistic medium.
How do u think the Deft product would work on a fire pit?
Not sure it can endure any extreme heat
Just finished an art piece based on your techniques. It turned out really cool! It isn't perfect, but for a first attempt with a couple of my own technique modifications, I'm pretty happy with it. If there's a way to send you a photo, I will. Please let me know. Thanks for the knowledge! ✌️👽
Sounds great! you can send me an email at rogueartist@artfullyrogue.com
I like the dark blue accents on your metal doors. How did the blue form? Any tips on how to get more blue and less red/brown?
I rusted a lot of stuff by mistake-I wanted to strip the galvanised (zinc) coating off some cheap spanners (wrenches). I dropped into a plastic bath of muriatic acid (neat). I left it outside my shop door, and had a cover over it to keep the rain off but high enough to let the gases out. I got occasional smells of the gas.The fumes permated my shop and rusted bare steel several feet away from the bath.Maybe something to try to bulk rust materials. You must keep it away from your shop though as the fumes will attack tooling etc, and, the fumes will overcome small animals/birds etc!. And have a bucket of bicarbonate solution in case of accidents.
Citric acid powder might be better than lemon juice? -maybe, its used to remove rust by some makers, but maybe worth a try.
As always, be careful out there with this stuff-good to see those subs going up.
Jaques Daniels yeah I use muriatic acid a lot when removing zinc from screws and or lags. And then use it in combination with hydrogen peroxide to get a fast rust on mild steel
Does anyone know how I could possibly get a really dark almost black rust on a truck trying to build a true patina truck and I love the black rust but I can’t think of something to press on the panels for 48 hours
....hi, brilliant stuff.. can I just check with you, what kind of vinegar are you using..? thanks...
I tried muriatic acid and peroxide last night on old corrugated metal. It reacted and smoked and flashed immediately. I left it overnight to no ado...any suggestions?
This method not working for zinc, Why?
You have to remove the zinc first
Can you use ferric chloride instead off mutric acid
I'm not really sure
You mention gloves and eye protection. What about fumes? I'm guessing good to not breath them any more than you can, if at all.
The pointing glove on a stick made my day. Wondered if throwing some salt crystals on would add a blotchiness?
I've never played too much with salt but when I have it never produced anything mind blowing for me
I have an antique gun barrel that was cleaned and I would like to restore some black patina. Do you have any suggestions?
Hello John, Can't say I've ever done a gun restore before however I've heard of using gun bluing . I would suggest checking out video on bluing to get the best info. Bluing is something I still want to try but haven't yet
The hydrogen peroxide gives the metal the Oxygen molecule it needs to oxidize. I've found this gives a very orange patina. I'm experimenting with more diluted peroxide combined with vinegar to have more subtle control. I'm a big fan of Sculpt Nouveau but their products aren't cheap. Japanese Brown is my favorite product of theirs.
I do love patinas, I found that its challenging to do large pieces and have them look consistant
Thank you so much! This is exactly what I needed. I tried it and it worked perfectly!!
glad it helped
So is really rusted or is it creating a coating??
The longer I leave it the deeper it goes.
I love the skull and crossbones on your Muriatic acid. It's the same I do with the nasty stuff.
Haha yeah if I didn't do that I'm sure I'd use it as a cleaner somewhere and really make a mess of things
Need some Mr Yuck stickers
It change. Shade after applying clear cot
it goes slightly darker
I am rebuilding a 72C10. I am wanting to add chain to the truck. I will buy new chain and use your advice to give it a rusted look.
Cool, I bet that'll look amazing
The orange Mango colors are Ferichydroxides. FeOH which is water soluble. It doesn’t get deep in the metal crystals. Wipes of easily. The strong acids etch the surface giving more surface area. Surface area allows for more iron atoms to react with the OH an O ions, Rates of reaction is temperature dependent. Warmer will go faster. H2O2 or hydrogen peroxide is a ready source of oxygen to for the red iron oxides.
Thanks for the info, I didn't know how it was all working, just knew that it worked
sooo.. if i like the rust job ... i should just spray the finish on the dry rusted metal? ... not wipe it 1st?
Already wiped them off?? With what?
Sorry I missed your message. I don't understand the question. "Wiped what off?"
BEAUT
Thanks Jorge
How can I get teal and rust?
Check out my response to your comment on my other video. Or check out my other video "Top 3 Metal Finishes" it covers adding color
Very interesting, even for this jewelry artist. Could the folks suggesting salt be thinking of how it works with ammonia on copper for patinas? Just a thought.
Can we make cold rolled steel (natural) Finish in Fabricated steel skin of sheet?
Try too make sure the metal and acid are above room temperature acid bits better when its warm some steels rust better than others this due to to alloys like silicon copper and others at the moment I'm making a sudo replica of a medieval stump anvill using weldid scrap box section its out side rusting its ass off but going to take some time become of the alloy content.
Yes I find that heat accelerates the process
equal parts vinegar and hydrogen peroxide + salt works super fast too. this results in a rough, grungy rust in just a cpl hours.
Yeah I've tried that and wasn't pleased with the overall look. It didn't have the color differences that the acid does. still fast though for sure
When I clean cost it , should I sand the clear coat with an ultra fine sand paper that is wet and clear cost again ? Kinda like a car paint job ??
You can, however I've starting using a two part automotive clear coat and one coat seems to hold really well
It'll work better of you mix salt with the vinegar
Thanks Azaz, salt really hasn't done much for me yet but I'll check it out again
Azaz Khan I use a mixture of vinegar, salt and hydrogen peroxide. Also just plain yellow mustard works good (due to the vinegar in it)
Where do I get murassic acid?
I typically buy it from Home Depot in the pool cleaning section. You can go to any hardware or swimming pool store and they should have it
Thank you🤗🤗...If i use deft spray...is it will prevent the dust from peeling, liquefy or seep on the ground ? and does it keep it from being rusted anymore?
Once you spray the rust it will slow the process down but yes it does help keep it from peeling or seeping onto the ground
I love experiments, and I love the pressed vinegar method! While making a steel planter (4'L x 2'T x 1'D) I found a method where you spray vinegar a few times (over an hour or so) then use a peroxide, vinegar, salt spray. The client wanted a cor-ten look, but in Georgia cor-ten lasts about the same amount of time as mild steel because of the humidity (and mild steel is way cheaper). I didn't want to mess with caustic chemicals because there are children and pets around. The results with the peroxide/salt/vinegar mix were great. Now I'm doing some metal 'paintings' using rust patterns for the same client. I'm loving it and am so grateful to find your channel. Thanks!
Im in the process of building some planters in the garden and also want to create a look similar to corten!!! Would love to see some phots of how yours turned out. Also what thickness steel sheet did you use. I've looked at some 3mm sheets but am a little concerned the rust will work its way all the way through very quickly!!!
Great spot Doug! One question..maybe two. Do you use anything to "stop" the corrosive action before you seal the metal? Also, do you rinse with water before sealing? Planning on doing a tin roof. Will the typical galvanizing slow/prevent the process?
I typically rinse with water and let dry then apply a spray on clear coat
@@ArtfullyRogue which brand?
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023 Deft clear coat for wood also works for metal.
Depends what your doing it on. I’ve done a similar technique on wood; prime it first, 2nd step; (1-2 coats paint depending on desired look) 3rd step: metal flake paint placed in random areas …1st coat dry 2nd coat WET then apply this patina spray recipe into a spray bottle: 1/2 inch of salt at bottom of spray bottle, then pour in 16 oz. Hydrogen peroxide then top off with distilled vinegar just to the neck of spray bottle so that there is some room to shake the salt into the mixture.
Okay now that we’ve made our patina concoction apply that to the 2nd coat of WET metal paint…leave on until you get the desired effect and put 2 coats of clear coat on.
Easy Peasy…my directions probably sound intimidating 😜
So cool! I want to do this to a watch case and see if I can get something similar to the Rolex "Dark Star". Have you ever done anything like that? Got any tips for how I should go about it?
I know it works on steel but not on stainless or aluminum. The longer you leave it the darker it will get
I have a tip . I 've been rusting metal for quite a while now and if i get a chance i will upload a video . A light layer of muriatic acid like you did and when spraying the hydrogen peroxide wait till it stops bubbling or that white foam disappears it should take less than a minute and then tilt the metal sheet so that it runs off the metal , it doesnt have to be completely . Respray the hydrogen peroxide and it will accelerate the oxidation quite dramatically. Repeat this 2 more times and you will notice a browner metal rich in oxygen . Tilt the metal so that it runs off and it will start drying in minutes giving you a beautiful red and light yellow rust that looks beautiful in furniture pieces. This takes less than 30 minutes
Thanks for the tip Jose
Hey Doug, thx 4 the vid!! How long do u recommend leaving the metal for the rust to set and actually bond to the metal so its not just a powder on the surface?
During the summer, I leave for a few days. During winter, a week or two
I use cider vinegar and salt.....rusted a six foot panel beautifully within an hour.
Rust is so cool
If you want to do the same thing to your car, drive it in Pittsburgh for a few winters.
😂
Not only good information, but very well presented. I subscribed. I noticed the rail for the door behind you was not rusted. I am thinking of rusting my barn door rail, but is there a reason you would caution against doing that? Thank you again for the great video!
Rusting the rail would be fine. As long as you avoid surface flaking so as the door travels the rust stays where it's suppose to and not end up on the floor
I watched your other videos. All great. Thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge, it is much appreciate it. God bless you 👏🏼👍🏼🙏🏼
Thank you very much Rosa
Great results !!!! I used vinegar, peroxide and the acid .. great results !!!
Very cool. Rusting metal results in some amazing textures and colors depending on the method used.
Does this work with aluminum?
No not that I'm aware of
The peroxide catalyst is clever. Does vinegar do anything with peroxide?
You can get an instant reaction using vinegar and peroxide but in my opinion its not as cool looking. It lacks depth and color when vinegar is used as opposed to acid.
Thanks for the video- love that sun design in the steel behind you at the end. We just did a acid finish in our bathroom on the wall based on your technique- Looks so cool!
Very cool, I'm glad the video helped out
Can this punch tiny holes y regular zinc metal roof sheets?
Hi! great video man, answered a lot of questions I had, but I am having one problem right now that its making me go crazy. I am trying to rust a motorcycle gas tank. I am using a solution of hydrogen peroxide w/ vinager and some salt. In some parts of the tank the rust is very strong, and even in some parts it takes a while to come off while being sanded. But in other areas, i cant get the rust to bite the metal, it keeps coming off and off and off. I have already tried different methods and that keeps happening, a have already degreased and sanded that specific area of the tank. So I am thinking, how long should I let it sit after it dries? Because the rust on those areas is more like dust, and since I have to manipulate the tank several times before I apply some clear coating, that freaking dust will come off and leave the metal just clean...
Thanks again, great video and greetings from Argentina!
If you can fit the gas tank in a plastic container or plastic bag, use your rusting solution on the tank and close the tank in the plastic container. Keep the solution from evaporating too quick. The longer the solution stays on the metal the better.
What is the concentration of Muriatic & Peroxide you use, please? Great video, this channel needs more views!
not really sure. I spray the acid then I spray the peroxide until I get the look I want
Do I need to press metal on metal(vinegar pressed method) ? Or can I use another thing to press? Like wood, plastic, stone etc?
You can use whatever you like as long as it prevents evaporation.
I've seen people mixing vinegar, peroxide and salt. In the bottle and spray. Did you try it?
Separately but I've not tried them mixed together...I'll have to give that a shot and see what happens
Need a little help.. I want to paint an American flag on a 48” x 36” piece of steel and then incorporate a substantial rust affect. Will I get the rust affect if the steel is painted?
I suppose it will depend on the type of paint you use. If it's a metal stain, then you should get some rust penetration. If you're using an enamel I doubt it will get to the metal enough to make a difference.
I can't find any info on aging a cheap tin bucket... Most how to's work on steel or galvanized finishes. Will any of these work for my project?
Tin is a little tricky because it depends on the materials used to make that particular tin. I find that many times, if I can sand the metal and exposed the metal below any 'protective' coating then I can use the vinegar or acid/peroxide treatment
ohhh man!!! Very useful and cool video !!! You have a new follower! waaaves from Italy !!!!!!!!!!!!! I thank you !!!!!!!! big smile
Awesome, thank you!
heeey friend all ok? I really love the result after 48h (as per your test).. that black look is amazing.. i would like to do it at a big metal handle.. take a look at this exemple..
cdn.home-designing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/natural-minimalist-front-door.jpg
actualy the handle will cross the door (line an U profile). the question is do u think i can press the vinegar with another thing.. like a plastic?.. tks and congrat
Ramon zancanaro I'm not sure how plastic would do, as I've never tried it. I do know that I often use various pieces of metal, like saw blades, expanded metal etc to incorporate different patterns in the rust. If you do try plastic, let me know how it goes.
Tks for your reply!! Actualy, i would like to make a kind of dark/black rust efect.... i will try to do it with vinegar as per your video.. I will try with plastic also and post the resolt as soon as i do it.. (sorry for my pooor english)