Tremendously helpful! Your video helped me change the fuel pump in my 2004 A6 today (same layout). Your detailed explanation and video footage took away all of the usual tedious exploration/guesswork with the clips, connectors, etc. and saved me hours. Your presentation of your home made fuel-pump-removal-tool was especially helpful. After seeing yours, I was able to make something very similar out of an old leg from a lawn chair. It only took a few minutes with a vise and angle grinder. I was very excited when I finished installing the pump, got the covers back on, tightened everything up and the car came back to life after being dead for a week. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the video! Just did the pump on my dad's 2.7 Allroad today. Had a little trouble with it, but the weirdest part was when we went to put gas back in and the gas filler caught the nozzle on the jerrycan and wouldn't let go! So, that part sucked. This video made the rest of it an awful lot easier!
Good video ,thanks. You might mark the supply black hose with say masking tape, white out, or rubber band, then take a picture for reference before detaching, just to make sure those are not switched. If vehicle is running at all, start vehicle, pull fuel pump fuse, let vehicle stall. On my 98 that is fuse 28. See your mamual. This may reduce pressure in the fuel line. For a 1998 A6 2.8 30 valve , the access point is in the trunk. For the 98 the in line fuel filter is just in front of the rear passenger side wheel. Always replace the fuel filter also when replacing a fuel pump. Fully remove any splash guard that's there. This is for information only, I'm not recommending anyone work on their own vehicle. Hire a professional mechanic.
I have an issue with the fuel heat exchanger in that it's leaked coolant into the fuel so a full flush is required also my return on top of the tank is different to this . I feel good to tackle the job now
Hi sir I'm located in Florida does the 06 Audi A6 have 2 fuel pumps? I'm trying to see which one I need to buy after the mechanic let me know because I might try to do it myself to save money.
Great video. I'm new to AUDI. These pump setups are puzzles indeed. I'm an engineer, and I get ANGRY, myself with the variations and complexity of servicing. I also have a C6 2005 A6. Process was quite different in terms of housing removal. Lock ring is also different. Great video though!!
Squeeze the tab on the harness. Actually I think some cars have the type that need a small flat blade screw driver. You would insert the screw driver in the slot and pry towards the inner harness and the tab should release. You normally hear an audiable click.
Excellent video; I didn't do the work myself but I kept my mech honest! And negotiated the job for half the cost... ;-) (By ordering my own parts on Amazon Prime with 2 day delivery.) Splendid, and thank you, it's great to have access to a pro!
Hello, would it be a fuel pump issue if when I park on a slope, after some time (20-30 mins I guess) the car cranks longer than normal till it starts? Once started it works fine even on big slopes or garage ramps. It only struggles if left on slopes or just for a long time parked anywhere. It's an audi a6 avant c5 4b 1998 2.4 petrol
I have never seen this before. The fuel system should still be under enough pressure to inject fuel as soon as the fuel pump turns on. If the pressure is dropping I would check elsewhere. Not to say this is not a fuel pump issue. In my experience, the fuel pump sometimes stops running intermittently when going bad, but it never depends on a slope. In this case I would hit the bottom of the fuel tank and sometimes get lucky. Check to see if it's an engine temperature issue. If you're getting a long crank when the engine is cold. It could be the engine temperature sensor going bad. (If it's reading that the engine is warm but it's actually cold, the injectors will not squirt extra fuel for cold start, thus the crank time gets longer)
@@pnswg01 alright thanks a lot, I've read somewhere it could be the sensor too, I'll see. To test the pump, I can just use a multimeter on the cables seen in the video, right? I'll also check fuel pressure in vcds as well.
8:36 watch a small rock drop into the tank during reinsertion was hanging on the lip, passenger now...lol Nice right up, now to upgrade the power feed with a HD relay and heavy gauge power wire...
Hey where did you get them tools from to remove the hoses off the fuel pump? 2 more questions do I have to drain my tank if it's on a half of tank? And the fuel pump is on the passenger side?
You don't need any special tool to remove the hose. However if you are in the US, Harbor Freight Tools sell those pliers. If the car is C5, the pump is on the right side. Half a tank may cause a spill when you open the cover. It also depends on if the car is level. 0.75 (quarter tank) is good.
To suck out fuel / petrol if the tank has too much fuel in it. If too much fuel, it will spill out in the car and into the ground. The video did say so by the way. Thank for watching.
Great Video. My Audi Allroad 2003 2.5tdi, got problem, when I have 1/2 fuel left, don`t want to start. Also if I park on road which is tilt(front of car is heigher) for more then 6 hours, won`t start. Also I have a lot of bubbles in fuel line. I think there is problem with pump in tank. Do you seen same issue before?
I am not familiar with the 2.5tdi. The little that I know is that the TDI uses an injection pump (BOSCH VP44). The engine drives it and it suck fuel from the fuel tank. JUST MY ASSUMPTION: The electric pump in the tank may just be for priming the system or boosting the fuel pressure to the injection pump. If you find bubbles in the fuel that means that the fuel system needs priming. Injection pumps usually have a knob/bolt on the injection pump that you unscrew to open halfway to expel the air from the system. The problem sounds like a priming issue but can also be the electric pump. When the car wont start, check for fuel by the injection pump. If the engine still runs when going up hills or when the car is tilted, then its either a priming issue or bad injection pump (not enough suction). When the tank is full it forces more fuel out on its own than when it is empty thus sending fuel down line somewhat. When the car parked for a while the pressure in the line may drop and need to be pressurize again. If the electric pump won't turn on or too much air gaps in the system then the car won't start until primed again. Once again, I am not familiar with TDI's so all that is just speculation. Traditional injection pump diesel without electric fuel pump is what I am familiar with. Also you may need to check the filter on the electric fuel pump, and any other filter in the system.
If the fuel pump is dead and you have too much fuel in the tank, you must manually suck out some of it before you attemt to remove the pump, otherwise you will spill gasoline/petrol all over the floor.
It is located in the fuel tank. (Those smart engineers ?) This mean removing the rear seat and the fuel delivery unit to access it. It is at the bottom portion of the delivery unit, pull it downward to remove. I have never done one of these. The information I just gave you was quoted from the repair manual.
Thank you for this video. I’m pretty sure it’s the only one for the C5 Allroad. Where are you from? What part of the earth does your C5 roam around (when it’s running, haha)
C5 Audi Allroad. The fuel pump relay is on the left side above the clutch/brake/gas pedals. (Left hand drive cars) You have to remove the panel to get to it. It is the 4th relay from the left, right above these terminals. (I forgot the number written on it) [75x] [30] [30] [30B] [...] Relay 1 = Dual horn relay Relay 2 = Load reduction relay Relay 3 = 4-Low range hydraulic pump relay (Allroad if equipped) Relay 4 = Fuel Pump relay Relay 5 & 6 = Wiper/Washer Intermittent relay
Bend a piece of aluminum or light steel in the shape of a U. make it as wide as the fuel pump basket. Cut slots into the bottom. Also 2 screw driver crossing each other in the shape of X may work.
In the USA, most new fuel pump comes with the clear hose attached with ear clamps. You simply plug it to the port inside the fuel tank. We are NOT replacing the return line, it comes with the fuel pump. We are just removing the old pump module and replacing it with a new one. If you happen to get the electric pump with no hose attach to it then you have no choice but to use the old lines. Thanks for watching.
The fuel pressure regulator regulate the fuel pressure based on vacuum. You would check the fuel pressure before it reach the fuel regulator. (Right side of engine)
First you need to check if you have power at the pump terminals. When you turn the key to ON, the pump should be engerized momentarily and continously when cranking/starting. You should see 12+ volts at this time. If there is 12+ present then the pump is bad. You REPLACE it, not repair (to answer your question) If no power, check the fuse or relay.
This is the reason why i show a close up of how the tool work in the video. I figure one would simply look at it and make there own copy. Anyway, it's nothing more than a piece of solid aluminum tubing bend in the shape of a U. Cut knotches in both ends with a dremel tool or similar. Adjust the width of the U to match the size of the fuel pump basket. (you will determine the size when you open the cover and look down at the pump) Use any straight object to twist the tool.
Wow Thank you!! It's the same 2 connectors on my Passat 4motion tdi and i forgot to check how they were connected. This is the ONLY video on internet about those 2 connectors. Its easier to find bidens lost laptop than this video.
Unfortunately, that's how it is. If you make a good video, few people comment because they get all the information they want. According to Google, little comments and low like count means your video is not engaging and not worth promoting. It's just the sad reality. Thanks for watching.
@@pnswg01 i made a video from my passat 4motion after not finding anyone about this. And 3 days after upload i found your video. I am waiting for my fuel relay and maybe i open up the hatch again just to check my 2 connectors but it seems to work. I do remember i thought to put the black wires in the middle but if i put the wrong connectors at wrong side i dont know or if it has any meaning at all as long as the fuel gauge works. But first day after changing the relay and open this up the instrument showing how long i can drive on what fuel i have was going up and down by 200 kilometers. But now after i have been using it for a few days it seems to have stabilized itself.
@@pnswg01 and also, my TDI fuel pump for the 4motion is no where to be bought unless its used. Dealership wanted 850 usd for a new one that they maybe could find from old stock. But what NOONE is telling anyone is that you easily can just remove the pump itself and replace it with a new pump for almost any passat. Just remove the pump it's after all just Clipped in with 3 clamps and it cost 30usd from any online shop. Its 17 usd if you buy it from china. So the white piece of plastic is actually charged as 820 usd and the pump itself cost 30 usd. Its insanely stupid. The video is on my channel if anyone reads this. You should also add some tags like 4motion passat tdi fuel pump and so on to make it easier to find for the people with 4 wheel drive vag
Hi! Help me please! Not starting Audi A6 2000 at all! What could it be? Writes the error: --------------------------------------------------------------- Адрес 01: Электроника двигателя Labels: 059-907-401-AKE.LBL Блок управления: 4B2 907 401 D Компонент: 2.5l/4VTEDC G200SG D04 Кодировка: 01015 Мастерская #: WSC 01585 VCID: 2135329FB8C7 000120000120 106EC 106EC150_1.512085 4 Найдены неисправности: 00542 - Датчик хода иглы форсунки-G80 30-10 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс - Непостоянно 00523 - Датчик температуры воздуха на впуске-G42 30-10 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс - Непостоянно 00553 - Расходомер воздуха-G70 31-00 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на массу 00575 - Давление во впускном коллекторе 11-00 - выход из диапазона регулирования (меньше нижнего предела) Готовность: Нет данных -------------------------------------------------------------------- Адрес 03: Электроника тормозной системы 3 Найдены неисправности: 00285 - Датчик частоты вращения переднего правого колеса-G45 30-00 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс 00301 - Насос обратной подачи ABS-V39 35-00 - - 18265 - Сигнал нагрузки: сообщение об ошибке от блока управления двигателя P1857 - 35-00 - - ------------------------------------------------ Адрес 17: Комбинация приборов 1 неисправность: 00771 - Датчик уровня топлива-G 30-10 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс - Непостоянно
Tremendously helpful! Your video helped me change the fuel pump in my 2004 A6 today (same layout). Your detailed explanation and video footage took away all of the usual tedious exploration/guesswork with the clips, connectors, etc. and saved me hours. Your presentation of your home made fuel-pump-removal-tool was especially helpful. After seeing yours, I was able to make something very similar out of an old leg from a lawn chair. It only took a few minutes with a vise and angle grinder. I was very excited when I finished installing the pump, got the covers back on, tightened everything up and the car came back to life after being dead for a week. Thanks for posting!
BRILLIANT! I cannot get the new pump to lock into place, after seeing this video i Made the same tool as you did and it did the job.......Thank You!
Thanks for the video! Just did the pump on my dad's 2.7 Allroad today. Had a little trouble with it, but the weirdest part was when we went to put gas back in and the gas filler caught the nozzle on the jerrycan and wouldn't let go! So, that part sucked. This video made the rest of it an awful lot easier!
Used this video to get my a6 on the road again. Thank you
Thanks for watching...
Good video ,thanks. You might mark the supply black hose with say masking tape, white out, or rubber band, then take a picture for reference before detaching, just to make sure those are not switched.
If vehicle is running at all, start vehicle, pull fuel pump fuse, let vehicle stall. On my 98 that is fuse 28. See your mamual. This may reduce pressure in the fuel line.
For a 1998 A6 2.8 30 valve , the access point is in the trunk. For the 98 the in line fuel filter is just in front of the rear passenger side wheel. Always replace the fuel filter also when replacing a fuel pump. Fully remove any splash guard that's there.
This is for information only, I'm not recommending anyone work on their own vehicle. Hire a professional mechanic.
True. Good points.
Thank you for making it easy and simple great video
GRACIAS.. MUY BUENO EL VIDEO.!!!
Gracias por ver.
I have an issue with the fuel heat exchanger in that it's leaked coolant into the fuel so a full flush is required also my return on top of the tank is different to this . I feel good to tackle the job now
Hi sir I'm located in Florida does the 06 Audi A6 have 2 fuel pumps? I'm trying to see which one I need to buy after the mechanic let me know because I might try to do it myself to save money.
Great video. I'm new to AUDI. These pump setups are puzzles indeed. I'm an engineer, and I get ANGRY, myself with the variations and complexity of servicing. I also have a C6 2005 A6. Process was quite different in terms of housing removal. Lock ring is also different. Great video though!!
Thanks
i like this vid, im gonna do my A% now, best tutorial vid on you tube, well done
Thanks for watching.
How did you loosen the harness @1:05. So far I've broken the little plastic tap on the right side and don't want to break anything else.
Squeeze the tab on the harness. Actually I think some cars have the type that need a small flat blade screw driver. You would insert the screw driver in the slot and pry towards the inner harness and the tab should release. You normally hear an audiable click.
Thanks a lot. Great video. Made the job much easier. My 2.4 saloon has the fuel pump in the hole in the trunk, nothing under the rear seat.
Most Audi/VW vehicles are similar. Some use plastic screw on top (eg B5 Passat) while some use metal notch lock type.
Excellent video; I didn't do the work myself but I kept my mech honest! And negotiated the job for half the cost... ;-) (By ordering my own parts on Amazon Prime with 2 day delivery.)
Splendid, and thank you, it's great to have access to a pro!
Glad to know my video help you save some $$$. Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate the video man thanks !
Thanks for watching.
How do I remove the wires on the inside of the gas tank? The ones that connect to the fuel pump seal
At 6:17 where does the other end of that baby blue connector go?
I honestly don't know. I never had to disconnect it. The fuel tank has two sections so maybe it goes to the other half. (???)
Glad to know i build up your confidence. It's not difficult really.
Amazing video couldn’t have changed my pump with out it
“...and think responsibly” hahahaha
Great video! Many thx!
Cheers! Thanks for watching!
Great job!
Hello, would it be a fuel pump issue if when I park on a slope, after some time (20-30 mins I guess) the car cranks longer than normal till it starts? Once started it works fine even on big slopes or garage ramps. It only struggles if left on slopes or just for a long time parked anywhere. It's an audi a6 avant c5 4b 1998 2.4 petrol
I have never seen this before. The fuel system should still be under enough pressure to inject fuel as soon as the fuel pump turns on. If the pressure is dropping I would check elsewhere. Not to say this is not a fuel pump issue.
In my experience, the fuel pump sometimes stops running intermittently when going bad, but it never depends on a slope. In this case I would hit the bottom of the fuel tank and sometimes get lucky.
Check to see if it's an engine temperature issue. If you're getting a long crank when the engine is cold. It could be the engine temperature sensor going bad. (If it's reading that the engine is warm but it's actually cold, the injectors will not squirt extra fuel for cold start, thus the crank time gets longer)
@@pnswg01 alright thanks a lot, I've read somewhere it could be the sensor too, I'll see.
To test the pump, I can just use a multimeter on the cables seen in the video, right?
I'll also check fuel pressure in vcds as well.
@@pnswg01 also, forgot to mention the engine fan turns on after a cold start.
@@insus100 If you have VCDS check the engine temperature when the car is cold. If it seems way off then change it.
@@insus100 The fan uses a different sensor, I think it's blue or green.
8:36 watch a small rock drop into the tank during reinsertion was hanging on the lip, passenger now...lol Nice right up, now to upgrade the power feed with a HD relay and heavy gauge power wire...
blkcoupequattro This was a retired car. It was used only for the demonstration. That was a piece of insulation fabric, not a rock.
Hey where did you get them tools from to remove the hoses off the fuel pump? 2 more questions do I have to drain my tank if it's on a half of tank? And the fuel pump is on the passenger side?
You don't need any special tool to remove the hose. However if you are in the US, Harbor Freight Tools sell those pliers.
If the car is C5, the pump is on the right side.
Half a tank may cause a spill when you open the cover. It also depends on if the car is level. 0.75 (quarter tank) is good.
@@pnswg01 will it work on a quarter of tank
@@tfoedagent3531 Maybe.
Car should be on a flat surface though. Still look out for spills as a precaution.
Is it the same for 2008 a6?
Why was the fuel sender removed in the beginning of the video?
To suck out fuel / petrol if the tank has too much fuel in it. If too much fuel, it will spill out in the car and into the ground. The video did say so by the way.
Thank for watching.
Good. Thanks. Now I just gotta make a “homemade tool.”
*watching video*
Says to myself " I can do this, its pretty simple so far"
*sees fuel pump removal tool*
"ahhh come on WTF!"
Yes you can, its not that bad. Think about the money you would save doing it yourself. The factory tool 3307 cost $50.00 minimum. Thanks for watching.
can you make one by bending a couple coat hangars and taping them together?
Gary Shaw sounds like a plan I might try that
I think u might be able to rent a fuel pump tool kit from an auto parts store.
oh, would you say its the same thing on a audi A5?
ive already located the fuel pump under my passenger seats.
Not sure about the A5
Great vid. Now what do you do for the drivers side where I have a fuel leak? Lol. I wonder about those rings on top. Less scared to remove them now
Really helpful, cheers! :)
Thanks for watching.
Nice video. Very helpful. I have a question. Where is the fuel filter on a Audi A6 Quattro 2004 (C5)?
Carlos Quiles Under the car, right side, directly in front of the rear wheel, next to gas/petrol tank. (Aluminum color can)
Great Video. My Audi Allroad 2003 2.5tdi, got problem, when I have 1/2 fuel left, don`t want to start. Also if I park on road which is tilt(front of car is heigher) for more then 6 hours, won`t start. Also I have a lot of bubbles in fuel line. I think there is problem with pump in tank. Do you seen same issue before?
I am not familiar with the 2.5tdi. The little that I know is that the TDI uses an injection pump (BOSCH VP44). The engine drives it and it suck fuel from the fuel tank. JUST MY ASSUMPTION: The electric pump in the tank may just be for priming the system or boosting the fuel pressure to the injection pump.
If you find bubbles in the fuel that means that the fuel system needs priming. Injection pumps usually have a knob/bolt on the injection pump that you unscrew to open halfway to expel the air from the system. The problem sounds like a priming issue but can also be the electric pump.
When the car wont start, check for fuel by the injection pump.
If the engine still runs when going up hills or when the car is tilted, then its either a priming issue or bad injection pump (not enough suction). When the tank is full it forces more fuel out on its own than when it is empty thus sending fuel down line somewhat. When the car parked for a while the pressure in the line may drop and need to be pressurize again. If the electric pump won't turn on or too much air gaps in the system then the car won't start until primed again.
Once again, I am not familiar with TDI's so all that is just speculation. Traditional injection pump diesel without electric fuel pump is what I am familiar with.
Also you may need to check the filter on the electric fuel pump, and any other filter in the system.
by injection pump do you mean high pressure fuel pump?
Patrick, when you remove the harness, you use the pump to remove all the gas?
If the fuel pump is dead and you have too much fuel in the tank, you must manually suck out some of it before you attemt to remove the pump, otherwise you will spill gasoline/petrol all over the floor.
@@pnswg01 I think i'm at a 1/4 tank of gas, is that still too much fuel in the tank to remove the pump?
@@MinneapolisJeff You make be ok. Open with caution though.
It all depends if you park on level ground or not.
Would you know where my fuel filter is located on my 2011 audi a4 avant wagen B8 tfsi 2.0L?
It is located in the fuel tank. (Those smart engineers ?) This mean removing the rear seat and the fuel delivery unit to access it. It is at the bottom portion of the delivery unit, pull it downward to remove.
I have never done one of these. The information I just gave you was quoted from the repair manual.
You replace the pump or just repair
Thank you for this video. I’m pretty sure it’s the only one for the C5 Allroad. Where are you from? What part of the earth does your C5 roam around (when it’s running, haha)
How to test the high pressure mechanical fuel pump in a Audi A4 3.2l engime
Would this be the same for a 03 A6 3.0 front wheel drive?
2003 A6 is platform C5 so fuel pump should be in same location.
thanks pat
good video
Thanks
Does anybody kno if the yellow or black wire is the negative griound?/
Black is positive and yellow ground. Also its marked on the pump.
Thank you for taking the time to do this! Do you know where the fuel relay is located?
C5 Audi Allroad.
The fuel pump relay is on the left side above the clutch/brake/gas pedals. (Left hand drive cars) You have to remove the panel to get to it.
It is the 4th relay from the left, right above these terminals. (I forgot the number written on it)
[75x] [30] [30] [30B] [...]
Relay 1 = Dual horn relay
Relay 2 = Load reduction relay
Relay 3 = 4-Low range hydraulic pump relay (Allroad if equipped)
Relay 4 = Fuel Pump relay
Relay 5 & 6 = Wiper/Washer Intermittent relay
Where is the fuel pump relay
How could I make the tool? Or where could I get one.
Bend a piece of aluminum or light steel in the shape of a U. make it as wide as the fuel pump basket. Cut slots into the bottom.
Also 2 screw driver crossing each other in the shape of X may work.
Nice vid. Do you know if it is the same on the a6 1999 mod?
Thanks. Gas/Petrol, same setup.
So not on diesel?
I am not familiar with the diesel version. That's why I said gas/petrols engines.
Best video
Tell me why are you replacing the return line , its not part of fuel pump hihi
In the USA, most new fuel pump comes with the clear hose attached with ear clamps. You simply plug it to the port inside the fuel tank. We are NOT replacing the return line, it comes with the fuel pump. We are just removing the old pump module and replacing it with a new one.
If you happen to get the electric pump with no hose attach to it then you have no choice but to use the old lines.
Thanks for watching.
where is the filter on intank
If you look in the video at 5:34, there is a filter screen at the bottom of the fuel pump. It comes with the pump. It is yellowish in color.
How to clean
Is this the same as an 1.8t Audi A4 2004?
the fuel pressure regulator its New
The fuel pressure regulator regulate the fuel pressure based on vacuum. You would check the fuel pressure before it reach the fuel regulator. (Right side of engine)
The fuel pressure regulator its New
that its same for 2.8
Same for Audi C5 A6 2.8 Gas/Petrol. Other models in the group also similar. For example B5 A4 and B5 Passat.
Ok thank You you know how to test fuel pump
And how you make the tool
First you need to check if you have power at the pump terminals. When you turn the key to ON, the pump should be engerized momentarily and continously when cranking/starting.
You should see 12+ volts at this time. If there is 12+ present then the pump is bad. You REPLACE it, not repair (to answer your question)
If no power, check the fuse or relay.
This is the reason why i show a close up of how the tool work in the video. I figure one would simply look at it and make there own copy.
Anyway, it's nothing more than a piece of solid aluminum tubing bend in the shape of a U. Cut knotches in both ends with a dremel tool or similar. Adjust the width of the U to match the size of the fuel pump basket. (you will determine the size when you open the cover and look down at the pump) Use any straight object to twist the tool.
Wow Thank you!! It's the same 2 connectors on my Passat 4motion tdi and i forgot to check how they were connected. This is the ONLY video on internet about those 2 connectors. Its easier to find bidens lost laptop than this video.
Unfortunately, that's how it is. If you make a good video, few people comment because they get all the information they want. According to Google, little comments and low like count means your video is not engaging and not worth promoting. It's just the sad reality.
Thanks for watching.
@@pnswg01 i made a video from my passat 4motion after not finding anyone about this. And 3 days after upload i found your video. I am waiting for my fuel relay and maybe i open up the hatch again just to check my 2 connectors but it seems to work. I do remember i thought to put the black wires in the middle but if i put the wrong connectors at wrong side i dont know or if it has any meaning at all as long as the fuel gauge works. But first day after changing the relay and open this up the instrument showing how long i can drive on what fuel i have was going up and down by 200 kilometers. But now after i have been using it for a few days it seems to have stabilized itself.
@@pnswg01 and also, my TDI fuel pump for the 4motion is no where to be bought unless its used. Dealership wanted 850 usd for a new one that they maybe could find from old stock. But what NOONE is telling anyone is that you easily can just remove the pump itself and replace it with a new pump for almost any passat. Just remove the pump it's after all just Clipped in with 3 clamps and it cost 30usd from any online shop. Its 17 usd if you buy it from china. So the white piece of plastic is actually charged as 820 usd and the pump itself cost 30 usd. Its insanely stupid. The video is on my channel if anyone reads this. You should also add some tags like 4motion passat tdi fuel pump and so on to make it easier to find for the people with 4 wheel drive vag
You too the fuel out for what
Hi! Help me please! Not starting Audi A6 2000 at all! What could it be? Writes the error:
---------------------------------------------------------------
Адрес 01: Электроника двигателя Labels: 059-907-401-AKE.LBL
Блок управления: 4B2 907 401 D
Компонент: 2.5l/4VTEDC G200SG D04
Кодировка: 01015
Мастерская #: WSC 01585
VCID: 2135329FB8C7
000120000120 106EC 106EC150_1.512085
4 Найдены неисправности:
00542 - Датчик хода иглы форсунки-G80
30-10 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс - Непостоянно
00523 - Датчик температуры воздуха на впуске-G42
30-10 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс - Непостоянно
00553 - Расходомер воздуха-G70
31-00 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на массу
00575 - Давление во впускном коллекторе
11-00 - выход из диапазона регулирования (меньше нижнего предела)
Готовность: Нет данных
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Адрес 03: Электроника тормозной системы
3 Найдены неисправности:
00285 - Датчик частоты вращения переднего правого колеса-G45
30-00 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс
00301 - Насос обратной подачи ABS-V39
35-00 - -
18265 - Сигнал нагрузки: сообщение об ошибке от блока управления двигателя
P1857 - 35-00 - -
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Адрес 17: Комбинация приборов
1 неисправность:
00771 - Датчик уровня топлива-G
30-10 - обрыв или короткое замыкание на плюс - Непостоянно
Sorry, not familiar with the 2.5 Diesel
Euro for ya pain in arse they wana make things difficult geezs make em like every other car an use NORMAL bolts 😂i dont no
Is this the same for a 04 Audi S4 with the 4.2l V8?
Not sure?