I like how you set the hub in the dirt on the floor seal side down, that's a great idea, then you dont have to clean all the rust off the seal surface of the axle, the new seal is now sandpaper so it will clean as you drive.
I like how you sest the bearings by spinning the hub while tightening the nut. Plus like somone else said you don't pack the bearings. You dip them in gear lube and install and fill the cavity of the hub with gear lube.
Thank You! 🙏👍🏻 This video is a huge help to my rear end rebuild to my F350! Very Helpful! I also appreciate the extra examples of what happens if the nut is on too tight and how to make adjustments. 👍🏻
You dont pack that bearing with grease. It is a gear oil bath. I lightly coat the races with grease for initial rotation until you drive it. I also drive with each side on a downhill slope to allow gear oil to run thru the bearings. But if you greased your bearings, you formed a barrier that gear oil cant pass through. On the locking nut, I run it tight with hub AND WHEEL on it. Then back it off 1/4 turn or as needed. Your tire will give you leverage to see if you are too tight or too loose on the bearings. Anyways, I am here to see if a new seal is installed dry on the axle shaft. You completely ran past that critical detail. 🤯 😂🤣
End play is measured by pushing and pulling on the hub, not rotating it. Also the grease is not necessary due to that type of bearing is an oilbath bearing. Thanks for the torque specs though.
just seeing this video. Couple thought. 1st the check with dial indicator is checking run out not end play as there was no force put on hub towards the differential and back outwards. 2nd. You mention the wheel bearing nut is ok if torque wrench does not click but if nut is loose will give same results. Need to tighten then looses until torque is correct if using this method. I may be wrong but ..
Will this hub tightening/lash procedure work on a f450 and f550 chassis cab model of the same years? It's been hard to find good solid info on this procedure Thanks for the video!
It’s not a boat trailer. You don’t have to pack the bearings because the fluid from the rear axle will constantly lubricant the bearings. I followed the instructions just as Ford wrote them.
@@powerstrokecustomsllc1942 I didn’t know you were supposed to grease the bearing I thought the gear oil took care of it. Oh well. I have to take mine back apart because it’s leaking again. Not sure what I messed up.
This is not how you pack a bearing. That bearing that you so called "packed" would not last an hour on the road without burning up. Packing a bearing is done by forcing grease in one side and out the other. Luckily for you,maybe enough gear lube will find it's way past that grease into that bearing so it will live. 🤦♂️
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I like how you set the hub in the dirt on the floor seal side down, that's a great idea, then you dont have to clean all the rust off the seal surface of the axle, the new seal is now sandpaper so it will clean as you drive.
😂
I like how you sest the bearings by spinning the hub while tightening the nut.
Plus like somone else said you don't pack the bearings. You dip them in gear lube and install and fill the cavity of the hub with gear lube.
Thank You! 🙏👍🏻 This video is a huge help to my rear end rebuild to my F350! Very Helpful! I also appreciate the extra examples of what happens if the nut is on too tight and how to make adjustments. 👍🏻
You dont pack that bearing with grease. It is a gear oil bath. I lightly coat the races with grease for initial rotation until you drive it. I also drive with each side on a downhill slope to allow gear oil to run thru the bearings. But if you greased your bearings, you formed a barrier that gear oil cant pass through. On the locking nut, I run it tight with hub AND WHEEL on it. Then back it off 1/4 turn or as needed. Your tire will give you leverage to see if you are too tight or too loose on the bearings. Anyways, I am here to see if a new seal is installed dry on the axle shaft. You completely ran past that critical detail. 🤯
😂🤣
That wasn't packing a bearing
I use no grease at all. I do it the same way I do my peterbilt. Just dink them in gear lube fill the cavity of the hub with gear oil and thats it.
The grease won’t hurt it. It’ll eventually just mix. It’s extra protection in my opinion
I truly would love for U to show the easiest way to install turbo to Y pipe for a tight seal I managed mine when I put my truck back together
Shouldn't end-play be measured by pushing and pulling on the hub rather than rotating the hub. Rotation would measure trueness, not endplay.
Nice job on the torq specs.
Why are you packing bearing that are oilbath?
Thanks for the video Josh. It would be great to see a video on the process for the first start of a fresh motor and the break in process.
Curtis Anderson follow my Facebook page. I have a couple of motors I’m building now and I will post videos on it.
End play is measured by pushing and pulling on the hub, not rotating it. Also the grease is not necessary due to that type of bearing is an oilbath bearing. Thanks for the torque specs though.
Could you do a video on your pro ess for engine breakin after a rebuild. Just rebuilt my 6.0 thanks to your videos. Great tips and advice. Thank you
Never heard of that grease. Thanks
just seeing this video. Couple thought. 1st the check with dial indicator is checking run out not end play as there was no force put on hub towards the differential and back outwards. 2nd. You mention the wheel bearing nut is ok if torque wrench does not click but if nut is loose will give same results. Need to tighten then looses until torque is correct if using this method. I may be wrong but ..
Good information thank you.
Thanks for the info 6.0 Dr.
Do you have the seal part number in that hub?
Very informative thank you.
Thats not checking end play,that was checking run out. End play would be pulling and pushing on the hub.
Keep it up man ! 🤘🏽
The Ford manual says to grease the bearings before install so I'd go with that.
where did you find the seal i'm looking for it and i'm not finding it
Will this hub tightening/lash procedure work on a f450 and f550 chassis cab model of the same years? It's been hard to find good solid info on this procedure Thanks for the video!
Nice video and very food inf. The grease u use what brand is it
What size socket did you use to take that center nut off
U still pack with grease even tho there oil fed and lubricated
What grease was that?
hddm3 maxima
u need to use a dial or beam type torque wrench for rotational torque test. click type is not accurate enough
You need to pack greace in hub alot
It’s not a boat trailer. You don’t have to pack the bearings because the fluid from the rear axle will constantly lubricant the bearings. I followed the instructions just as Ford wrote them.
@@powerstrokecustomsllc1942 I didn’t know you were supposed to grease the bearing I thought the gear oil took care of it. Oh well. I have to take mine back apart because it’s leaking again. Not sure what I messed up.
How many hours for axle??
What brand 1/2 ratchet are you using???
Dude to check end play you don’t spin the hub you move it side yo side
Can you give me the Part number for the axle nut socket?
OTC 6601, Ford Part number 205-448
OTC 6601
Can you give me the part number for the rear seal of the hub
What is a oil seal part number?
Part number for the hub seal please ?
Where do I get that tool?
Robert Fowler the socket you can find at Napa
Your backing plate is backwards....
Would this work on a 2001 f250 7.3 diesel?
Thanks.
Alot of Harbor Freight tools.
Where can I get the tool for the axle nut?
Eli Iacob I got mine from Napa. You can also find it on amazon.
This is not how you pack a bearing. That bearing that you so called "packed" would not last an hour on the road without burning up. Packing a bearing is done by forcing grease in one side and out the other. Luckily for you,maybe enough gear lube will find it's way past that grease into that bearing so it will live. 🤦♂️
Dude you shouldn't pack that bearing whatsoever, put some diff oil on it, that's it.
Very good info.....thanks