99 - 04 Ford F-250 Rear Wheel Bearing & Seal Replacement Superduty 4x4
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2018
- The information in the video is not professional advice and should not be considered technically accurate. Therefore, I take no responsibility for actions followed that may result in damage or injury. Please use this information with discretion, at your own risk.
Thank you
Great video and explanation for bearing/hub seal replacement on the Sterling 10.50 axle. Couple of added points, Just use gear oil on the bearings and before you install the hub add gear oil to the recess(About 1 ounce) and roll it through the rear bearing. The 8 drive plate bolts get torqued to 80 foot pounds with the wheels on and the full weight of the vehicle on them. They also use blue loctite thread locker on the threads. Last, jack the opposite side of the axle which was worked on, around 6 inches and allow the axle fluid to run down inside the tube and refill the hub. Refill the differential as needed. Again great video and explanation of the process. So many others leave the oil slinger out but it is a necessary part.
I'll be tackling this project myself thanks to your video...much appreciated
Thank You Sir! Looks like you posted this 3 years ago and it’s still helping folks. You helped me Much Thanks Brother
That hub turning while setting the torque was an excellent tip which I'll be using in the future definitely. Makes perfect sense!
Great video!
I'll just add that I drive the races in all the way with the old race. Then I flip the hub over and drive the old race out with a long punch just like I did to begin with. Also, I drive in the new seal with the old seal.
Thanks for the refresher!
Certainly appreciate your providing this video ... my son and I did make a mistake with a 2000 Excursion, and here found our problem source, then ... its SOLUTION was realized within your video. Thanks Josh!
I need to do this. Thanks for the video, now I can tackle this repair, it's not as scary as I thought.
Thanks for taking the time to document the process! Cheers!
If you have a welder, you can lay a big nasty bead in 3 or 4 spots around the inner race, let it cool, and it should about fall out. Then grind the outer surface down til it just slips in the hub. Now you have a race driving tool.
If you have a somewhat-steep slope nearby, shoot a touch of your gear lube of choice on the rollers, top off the diff, and park it on the slope with the new bearings downhill for 15 minutes once assembled, the hub will fill right up. If you did both, pull it level and repeat for the other side.
Once up to about 45-50, the diff should push oil out the tubes to the hub, so however you do it, be sure to check the diff lube a couple times after it's got a few miles on it.
Outstanding job Josh! I did this same job about 8 years ago, I even did a video, but never posted it on my channel because I lost some of the footage on it, sorry about that. I'm hear as a refresher to help do a friends truck. You were spot on with the job and that Slinger. I too forgot the Slinger and I just laughed when I heard you say that. It's so easy to forget it as most wheel bearings I've done didn't have one. Thanks for the super job and video. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for the kind words!
I'm glad I did it justice! Happy to help
IDK if you ever read these. But I want to say thanks. Found out my bearings were bad on the rear pass side even though you say this is for a F-250 in the title. Will work as well for a 1999-04 F350 Remember folk to check your differential for what type of axle you will be working on. this is for a 99-04 F series with a 10.5 pinion gear.
Thanks Josh! you saved me a ton of wasted time and energy.
Doing this to replace the parking brake on my 03. Doesnt look too bad. Thanks!
I don’t really want to wait an hour or so for penetrating oil to to work, so I use long bolts through the caliper bracket, use two nuts on the bolts and press the rotor off. Usually come off after a few turns on the nuts.
Awesome job buddy! Thanks for walking me through that b4 I actually take it apart
Thank you! Very nicely done. Merry Christmas!🎅🏼
Very detailed and thorough. Thank you.
Great video Josh!! Well done! Doing mine today!
About to do the same to my 2000. Excellent video!
Thanks again for the video. Without it I may not have know what all the little flat pieces of metal floating around inside the hub were (oil slinger). Its now an obsolete part, according to ford. But they have one on the shelf, or so they say. Fingers crossed.
Thanks for your time!
Makes my life easier!👍👍😎😎
Great video, helped me a lot, have 4 -- F-250
Thanks so much for your video Josh!
Just what I needed. Thanks!
Thank you for making this video.
Nice job thanks for the great video good info on all points.
thanks Josh I'm doing this tomorrow!!!
Best of luck!
Thanks for the torque spec
Thanks Josh. I have a 99 superduty f250 . I have a vibration at 60 and rear tires are choppy and fronts are good . I am assuming the bearings are done or are loose. I have 100,000 miles on a rebuild and i haul heavy stuff here and there. So I am just gonna order bearings and follow your video. Good instructions ..
Thanks Josh!
thanks ... this was very helpful.
excellent video! Helped me A LOT!
@@joemaria826 glad to hear it!
VERY GOOD!! Thanx A LOT!! 😎👍
nice video and thank you!
Good job, thanks.
good job !
Great video. Thanks.
Great job!!!!!!!
Great video josh what did you use on the spindle along with the hub puller? You said it was a large socket can you disclose what it was? Make/model.. I’m in the process of pulling the RR hub on my 2000 F250 and the hub won’t come off by hand.. I want to be as gentle as I can to the spindle.. what do I use to push the screw on? Thanks for the detail you have in this 👍🏻
I'm late joining the conversation but I'd like to make the point to never drive or punch any machined parts such as bearing races, and the like, with steel tools. Always use a softer metal. Brass is the go to. In the event you slip and strike any machined surface it won't be damaged. Here in the shop we have an assortment of brass punches, drift pins, etc. in various sizes. I find it odd after watching so many videos like this (excellent, by the way) I have yet to see anyone using these tools. One of the first things I was taught when I started in the shop.
well, it's a good idea but the brass punches, etc are very soft and usually bend when doing this.
What did you torque the axle bolts to?
Thanks Man
I didn't see you put the slinger back in when installing the new inner bearing.
I have 2010 F250 Super Duty 4 X 4, 5.4L engine with 160k miles.. My in dust pan rusted enough to push my brake to the inner break pad so I’ve been dragging the rear left break until metal to metal..😏.. So I’m assuming that like your truck I’ll need 2 oil seals, 2 bearings an inner & outer, 2 bearing race rings & 2 oil slingers rings that keeps the bearings in place...? The hub key from Orally Auto Parts, different for my truck ?
What’s the part number on the special socket ?
Thanks for the video! Unless I missed it I didnt see you install the new axle seal. Is there a special tool you used for installation? Thank you
The installation is on the video.
I used a 6" - 8" long piece of 2"x4" lumber and a rubber mallet.
Just get the seal started as evenly as possible, put the the 2"x4" on top of the seal, then hit the 2"x4" with the mallet.
This protects the seal from being bent during installation.
The 2x4 works but I generally just use the old seal as a perfectly sized punch to tap the new seal in with.
I see josh used national bearings. Does anyone have the part numbers for both bearings and for the seals?
Nice job! Could you provide the part numbers for the inner seal and the race and bearings. It seems that there is only one seal on the inside none on the out, Correct?
TK8333
I need to do an entire rear brake job on my 2005 Ford F250. After pulling off the brakes, I realized that i will also need to replace the dust shields as well. Could I contact you with questions? I need a list of all tools and materials needed to do this job. Thanks.
I don't have experience working on an 05', and I'm not a mechanic.
Just wanted to share what I learned while doing mine so folks could get an idea of what to expect.
Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.
Fyi if you use dorman dust shields they will only last about 3-4 years, though they are lifetime warranty, im on my second go around with dust shields, the hardest part when replacing the dust shields is getting the parking brake cable out of the cast iron bracket (use a hose clamp to comprss the tabs and it should come out with a little wiggling), take pictures of the parking brake springs so you can reassemble easier, the rest of the job is easy and straightforward
Also, when removing the hub assembly there was a very thin ring on the inner end of the assembly. What is that? It's very thin and flimsy and gets mis-shaped it becomes detached when the hub comes off. I suppose I could simply push it back in place and hope it gets seated correctly and does its job correctly -- whatever that is.
did you listen..
What’s the part number for the bearings ?
What axle is on this truck?
I read that you should pack these bearing with grease. Maybe a thin layer of grease or assembly lube.
It definitely couldn't hurt to pack them completely, but they are lubricated by the differential oil.
I'd use high temperature bearing greese.
@@AboundHomestead greese no good for lsd. should just cote in diff oil, then do circles when finished..check diff level..
Would anyone have the part number for both bearings?
When you were removing the seal, you had to pry off the inner seal connection. I noticed that you didn't press the inner connection on the spindle. The seal will leak if this isn't pressed on. I know because it happened to me. The seal is made in two parts that rotate and seal on the inner part of the seal.
I'm sorry to hear that you had trouble with yours.
I've been driving mine for 3 years since the repair and it hasn't leaked a drop.
I'm thinking that torquing the axle nut presses the seal onto the spindle.
I am not an expert though, so maybe I just got lucky.
Scotseals and variants are one piece and they press on the spindle/ axle housing as shown.
Hi Josh, great video, does this apply to the F-350 Single Rear Wheel 1999 to 2007 as well ? Thank you, Ciao, L
Thanks for the feedback!
I do not know from personal experience, but I believe they are the same.
Good luck!
Hi Josh - I will give it a try, thank you for the advice. Peace be with you, Ciao, L
I wonder if that race would just drop in if you freeze it first?
Good question.
I'll have to try that if I remember next time
I didn’t see you add the second wheel bearing on the front. Hmm
# 788,.. dont use greese..wash with diff oil, check diff level..
Were you getting a drivetrain vibration prior to doing the bearings? Under certain conditions I'm getting a shake. It's not the driveshaft or u joints.
I was getting a shudder at low speed, but it turned out to be a broken belt in one of the tires.
@@AboundHomestead I just replaced all 4 tires so I hope these bearings fix the problem. Left rear felt loose.
Everything is so solid and heavy on those trucks, it can be hard to diagnose a problem like that.
Not like a honda civic where you can easily feel the slop in the bearing just by shaking the tire.
Good luck hunting down the problem!
Is there not a C-clip in the differential to take out first?
There was not
What indicated that it needed repair?
tire flat on bottom from siezed bearings..its noisy.jack off ground, put in gear. listen..both sides off ground, its lsd diff. put a tube or screw driver on rear of axle, near bearing, should be noisy as hell.
Same problem with the seal here..
What are the torque specs for the axle shaft bolts
tighter but not too tight.. till your elbow cliks.. some say 75,or as low as 55.. its in the book..then back off, re tighten to 20. ish. dont greese bearings, just diff oil..
Where did you get the special tool to take out the hub nut? Please.
O'Reilly auto parts
homeless deathspot, or harber fright. jegs, summit, o'rileys.
What is the tool to remove the rear axle nut?
50 lb sledge hammer. then road jack hammer.. followed by 2 beers..
My truck is original. Bought it new. Never been repaired. Doing mine now. Does not have an oil slinger. 2000 model. Hmmmm
What happens if i dont put the oil slinger in at all
The main purpose of the oil slinger is to prevent the seal from being overloaded with too much oil. If the seal were forced to work without a slinger, it would most likely develope an oil leak over time.
Don't take this for the gospel but I believe that the reason the slinger is now obsolete is because ford redesigned the seal so you don't have to have it. The new Motorcraft Seals i replaced with were noticeably beefier where it rides on the spindle. If anyone can confirm this it might help for future reference
your bearing will get hot
I tossed the slinger… teeth were all gone!
What size is that socket.all these vids on this and no one tells the size
At 4:00 on the video I say what the tool is, part number, and where it get it. It's a caption text on the screen.
@@AboundHomestead thank you. I didn't see the text at the bottom on my phone. Had to expand the screen. Great help.
Shouldn't use grease use only gear oil
Is this a 2wd truck ?
It is a 4x4
josh smith is the rear bearings the same as a 2x4? Can’t find any info my tire is hot and most likely a caliper but my truck has almost 300k miles and needs bearings
I don't know for sure, but I would think the 2x4 would be the same as the 4x4.
I don't think the bad bearing would be generating that much heat though.
I'd lean toward the caliper.
I've already had to replace 3 of the 4 calipers on my truck and it's only got 190k miles.
josh smith yeah kinda thought sane thing the calipers one these don’t like to work even replacements seem to last maybe a couple years at most I had one completely explode on me
Another comment if I may. NEVER use your torque wrench to turn nuts and bolts down. Use a standard tool to take the fastener to down to snug and proceed from there. Too much wear on the torque wrench and over time it will lose it's accuracy.
ever done a wrench accuracy test,,there all different..snap on about best. some lose the higher you go. watch project farm.. & ave ''boltr'' in bc. tells some good jokes, along the way..
Fuck, this is going to be a bigger pain in the ass than I expected.
Lol
It's not too bad if you know what to expect
To much UH UH UH UH'S AND UM UM UM UM',S !!!
RIP torque wrench
What makes you say that Robert Pierce?
I'm not aware that I was doing anything abusive to my torque wrench.
If I was, I'd like to know.
Thanks
@@AboundHomestead I think torque wrench is meant for tightening not losenning of nuts.
Then why is it reversible?
I've never heard anyone say that you aren't supposed to be able to use a torque wrench in reverse...
Here's what Google says:
"So long as users operate with caution and do not exceed the maximum torque, most torque wrenches can be used for undoing. However, if the bolt will not free within the maximum torque of the wrench, another tool should be used instead. ... If in any doubt, use another tool for loosening bolts.Sep 1, 2015

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Torque wrenches can be used to loosen or tighten as long as you don't exceed the max torque setting of the wrench.