I agree. Luckily I can do all my own work but when the upper oil pan started puking and I still had warranty I brought it in. Next oil change I literally removed the drain plug by hand, they charged ford for a coolant flush they never did and whined on the work order that the BDS lift made the job harder to do. A few months later the truck would periodically lose major power so I again brought it in but was informed the warranty was cancelled. Since I pretty much cringe at a dealership touching my truck I went home and got to work on it. Luckily for me not all dealership techs suck and one posted a video of a problem he found that had a few of the same codes which was the harness rubbing against the egr cooler and shorting or grounding out. Now I don’t miss any of his video’s, thanks AROD. Oh ya and MSA ford sucks big time, if you take any pride in your vehicle don’t go near the lying rats 🐀. I could say more but this comment is already ridiculously longer than the amount of time my truck sat in their lot before they even touched it the first time I had it there
Both Dodge and GM abandoned locking hubs long ago. I'm glad that Ford still has locking hubs and that they can still be manually locked in the event that the vacuum system fails. I just can't see turning the front axles and driveshaft when not in 4wd. My motto has always been "Lock and Free = Economy".
I now know what that line is for. Mines broke off and I couldn't figure what it was for and I finally typed in the right wording. Thank you for this! My truck is a '17, the dial is pretty hard to turn, but I haven't had issues shifting until my passenger side hose broke.
Classic example of, the wheels spinning but the hamster's dead! lol I had this problem back on my 2008 where that spaghetti tubing that Ford uses to route vacuum was brittle and broken in several places. I replaced them with rubber vacuum hose. It amazes me that Ford continues to use this crap!
Im surprised Ford has stayed with this setup as long as they have. I remember replacing them with manual lock out kits on 7.3s back in the day when the customers didnt want to pay for messing with the vacuum setup. We would replace with the warn manual hubs.
I put mile markers on my 03 7.3, pretty sure Ford wanted a boat load for those hubs…at least at the time. I always feel better just locking them in anyway if you know you going to be wheelin!
They really weren't the same all the way back to 7.3L days. The older ones through i think 2010 were pulse vacuum hub lock. 2011 and newer are constant vacuum hub lock. Much simpler system. PVH hubs were a pain in the ass! Love the videos. Keep it going!
Yeah i was thinking the same thing! i did stay with the factory pulse hubs but disconnected the vacuum after one of the hubs stayed locked in after its ‘lock & unlock’ cycle they do on every startup
I have a new ‘22 F-350 with the 6.7 I just ordered aftermarket hubs for it. Manual locking hubs or free none of this auto B.S. that can break. Ford has so many problems with these stupid vacuum hubs. Wish the would get rid of them altogether.
I wish I lived in your area Arod.I would take my truck and tell my buddy’s to take their trucks there to see you. Thank you for explaining things in detail.
My Auto 4wd hubs on my F350 stopped working. I just checked and found a vacuum line to the right front knuckle had come undone. Plugged it back together and it's fixed! Thanks for the tips man!!
Pretty sure I need seals on my 06. Air likes to switch up to defrost and auto hubs don’t work anytime. At 257000 miles on a farm truck I won’t complain. Thanks for sharing!
Chased ghosts in my vacuum system of the 09-6.4, finally found that there was a torn gasket inside the mini vacuum pump i replaced the pump and got things working again, never worked 100% of the time but closed to 90 figured the other 10% was just age of components especially the solenoid. Got a aftermarket one and it didn’t work well, got a motorcraft one and it closed the gap :-)
Mu 2016 "on the fly" system failed in the middle of the snow storm we got a couple days ago. THANK GOD for the ability to still manually lock them or I would have been hooped!
I have to guess that was somewhat the problem I had with my 2011 Expedition. The front differential would engage and disengage while driving down the street. It was diagnosed as a vacuum problem. Thank you God it was repaired and returned in one day.
On F-150, I believe applying vacuum disengages the axle. I prefer this, where application of vacuum engages the axle, where if you lose a vacuum line, you don't have an axle locking itself.
On my 2007 my heater vent controls fluctuated between vents and defrost vents when the 4x4 was engaged when my hubs leaked vacuum. Not sure if that is the same on the new trucks but it certainly was an immediate telltale
Stupid new technology, I prefer my manual Warn hubs and manually shifted BW1345 transfer case in my 86 Bronco! (Front & Rear lockers also make it a beast, the 5.8L Lightning engine swap is also fun) 😁
Great video! My vacuum line broke between the bracket and the knuckle fitting. I need a replacement. Do you happen to know the part number? Having trouble locating it? The whole vacuum line would work as well. Thank you for your time!
Excellent video. I just replaced front hub assembly. However I have a front growling noise. I jacked up the front and was able to manually lock the truck in 4x4. But what can cause this noise? Im thinking i didn't torque enough for a proper seal or a vaccum solenoid or vaccuum line. .... Thanks
On the passengers side of my 2008 F250,.I.found the vacuum line broken off at a little white what looks like a Lil, "one way valve," where can I but that, to replace it amd what the valve Called? Thank you love your vids.
I had no hub activation the other day and it was the small plastic line near the solenoid.the heat in the engine bay makes those line brittle and it was broken in half.
Great video, thanks! What work lights do you use under these rigs? @3:29 Your lighting is on point my friend! I run 13w LED bulb and I still can't see much under my truck. Thanks in advance.
Ford should have never stop making the 4x4 shift on the floor with the manual locking hubs. I personally never had a problem with my manual shift trucks.
I'm not a mechanic.... I have a 1999 f350 7.3 dually 4wd. Just finished brake rehab (rotors, pads, calipers, seals and brake hoses) and noticed the vacuum nozzle on the knuckle. Also noticed the vacuum line from behind the degas bottle. But, there's no vacuum line connecting the two. I've just locked the hubs manually. In a perfect world where everything is working, (seals, switches etc..) if I replace the vacuum lines to the knuckle, I should be in good shape? Thanks.
I have always been curious how ford does their hubs and 4x4, coming from a dodge and precious jeeps all with solid front axles it was always “in 4x4” I’m pretty sure this is known as a live front axle and then the engagement is just done at the transfer case, very interesting though. How often do you see the actual hub engagement fail on truck that’s made in the last 10 years?
Can you save your axel shafts ( the zerk fitting knuckle area ) by not leaving in Manual fulltime? Just leave in auto and only use when needed? I had mine set in manual and forgot about it until recently.
Subscribed… great content!!! Does the vacuum system serve any other function on a 2011 f250 powerstroke? I replaced a cracked vacuum hose 5 years back. Not shifting on the fly into 4X4 was the symptom. It isn’t pulling a vacuum again and the same thing is going on. I suspect the hose has become brittle and cracked again? However, additionally, on start up I am getting an engine light code P1249 Waste Gate Performance. Might this also be a function of the vacuum system?
When I wash my 2021 f250 I manually lock and unlock my hubs to keep things from seizing up. When I do this, I notice fuzzy soap bubbles percolating up through the ford emblem on the hub. Is this normal? It does it when I go from lock and then back to auto.
I have asked a bunch of people and nobody seems to be able to tell me what causes this sound. I have a cracking/ bolts in a can sound when driving 10-30mph coming from the front driver side wheel around the hub area and I can’t seem to get it fixed! Any idea what causes it? 2017 f250 ( the brakes are all new as well)
I swear it was a sign of a bad gun bearing too. I’m pretty foggy on this one but I vaguely remember that being a thing. My lockouts are corroded pretty bad making them a pain to turn. Any tips on fixing that? I’ve heard soaking them in atf will help.
I know this comments but I have a question changed oil in my 2021 350 6.7 put 13 quarts in checked it showed good on dip stick truck was on a small incline at entrance to shop I moved to driveway which is flat checked couple hours later it barley showed on very tip of dip stick any thoughts I did add a bit more but don't want to go to far
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ok thanks I let it drain for about 20 minutes I did about a bit more but was getting near dark and couldn't really tell if it was showing il revisit it in the day light tomorrow I figured I'd ask you you really seem to be know the 6.7'S like the back of your hand
Have you ever had an issue with the auto lock not engaging in cold and snow weather? I was driving up the mountain for work in a white out and when I switched into 4 wheel drive I got a service wrench icon after a few seconds and the 4WD did not engage. I was sliding all over. I got out and manually locked the hubs and it worked perfect. After I got down from the mountain to town, I checked the 4WD in auto and it worked fine. I have been checking it daily since and it works fine. Is it possible the cold and snow had a part in it not working?
Buddy, can’t believe the rust already on it. I’m a WV guy and clearly in the salt belt like you. Best thing I did was Fluid Film my Tremor the day I brought it home. 17k miles later even the tie rod threads show no surface rust.
What if you have the opposite problem ? It won't disengage, and I have the squeaking from the hub seal as well, but also when 4wd is turned on on the switch it starts making a popping type noise that is in synce with the wheel rotation, gets louder when it's in reverse and sometimes there's no noise
I have a 7.3 4x4 and I have a concern about those locking hubs. What if someone plays with them while sitting in a parking lot and one or both is left in the lock position? How would I tell and could damage occur?
My 2017 F-250 has two different lockout hubs up front. Driver side is "Auto and Lock", passenger side is "Free and Lock". Also, passenger side doesn't have an O-ring on the hub. So even if I wanted to pull a vacuum, it wouldn't work. Aren't they supposed to be the same on each side?
Hello, no 4×4, 2003 f350 6.0. Fuse 19 10amp good, the 4×4 & low lock lights not comming on on dash when selector is turned to them. Does this info give my next step? Please.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ya I know !! Snowmobile trip ....come to leave and no 4x4 ....thank God I have manual locks or I would have been stranded . Dash says it's in 4 hi but no dice .
are the integrated wheel ends on the F150s opposite? I recall having one that would make noise on heavy accel and found it was losing vacuum and I was hearing the wheel end transitioning to 4wd. vacuum = 2WD on the F150s correct???
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Can you tell me the Ford approved way of towing them when they won't start? No start= No vacuum= Stuck front hubs In the winter I drag them around on the ice, but in the summer they don't like that
This is the guy you want to be stall mates with. Super smart and seems super helpful.
💪💪💯💯
I’m honored when I get to hang out in his garage
Hair cuts, come one come all!
I agree. Luckily I can do all my own work but when the upper oil pan started puking and I still had warranty I brought it in. Next oil change I literally removed the drain plug by hand, they charged ford for a coolant flush they never did and whined on the work order that the BDS lift made the job harder to do. A few months later the truck would periodically lose major power so I again brought it in but was informed the warranty was cancelled. Since I pretty much cringe at a dealership touching my truck I went home and got to work on it. Luckily for me not all dealership techs suck and one posted a video of a problem he found that had a few of the same codes which was the harness rubbing against the egr cooler and shorting or grounding out. Now I don’t miss any of his video’s, thanks AROD. Oh ya and MSA ford sucks big time, if you take any pride in your vehicle don’t go near the lying rats 🐀. I could say more but this comment is already ridiculously longer than the amount of time my truck sat in their lot before they even touched it the first time I had it there
🙌🙌🙌🙌
Remember the days when you reached down and pulled the lever into 4-high after locking the hubs? No muss, no fuss unlike today.
Great video. My 4x4 wasn’t working after this video I found the vacuum lines was broken and I fixed. Thank you for this video very helpful!!!
Both Dodge and GM abandoned locking hubs long ago. I'm glad that Ford still has locking hubs and that they can still be manually locked in the event that the vacuum system fails. I just can't see turning the front axles and driveshaft when not in 4wd. My motto has always been "Lock and Free = Economy".
I totally agree with you. Locked or unlocked. None of this auto hub B.S.
I now know what that line is for. Mines broke off and I couldn't figure what it was for and I finally typed in the right wording. Thank you for this! My truck is a '17, the dial is pretty hard to turn, but I haven't had issues shifting until my passenger side hose broke.
Very nice video ARod and really clear explanation of the functionality of the locking hubs/vacuum system.
Thnks pal
Classic example of, the wheels spinning but the hamster's dead! lol I had this problem back on my 2008 where that spaghetti tubing that Ford uses to route vacuum was brittle and broken in several places. I replaced them with rubber vacuum hose. It amazes me that Ford continues to use this crap!
Mine was in the shop for over 2 months due to lack of parts needed.
Good thing for the manual hub option
Manual hubs are best 👍
Im surprised Ford has stayed with this setup as long as they have. I remember replacing them with manual lock out kits on 7.3s back in the day when the customers didnt want to pay for messing with the vacuum setup. We would replace with the warn manual hubs.
Yep I agree. Warn Premiums on my 99. My 16 I bought a manual gear shifter for a reason.
I put mile markers on my 03 7.3, pretty sure Ford wanted a boat load for those hubs…at least at the time. I always feel better just locking them in anyway if you know you going to be wheelin!
Or the grease in the hub is dry and needs cleaned and replaced so the locking parts can move in the hub.
They really weren't the same all the way back to 7.3L days. The older ones through i think 2010 were pulse vacuum hub lock. 2011 and newer are constant vacuum hub lock. Much simpler system. PVH hubs were a pain in the ass! Love the videos. Keep it going!
Yeah i was thinking the same thing! i did stay with the factory pulse hubs but disconnected the vacuum after one of the hubs stayed locked in after its ‘lock & unlock’ cycle they do on every startup
I have a new ‘22 F-350 with the 6.7 I just ordered aftermarket hubs for it. Manual locking hubs or free none of this auto B.S. that can break. Ford has so many problems with these stupid vacuum hubs. Wish the would get rid of them altogether.
I wish I lived in your area Arod.I would take my truck and tell my buddy’s to take their trucks there to see you. Thank you for explaining things in detail.
My Auto 4wd hubs on my F350 stopped working. I just checked and found a vacuum line to the right front knuckle had come undone. Plugged it back together and it's fixed! Thanks for the tips man!!
Pretty sure I need seals on my 06. Air likes to switch up to defrost and auto hubs don’t work anytime. At 257000 miles on a farm truck I won’t complain.
Thanks for sharing!
Chased ghosts in my vacuum system of the 09-6.4, finally found that there was a torn gasket inside the mini vacuum pump i replaced the pump and got things working again, never worked 100% of the time but closed to 90 figured the other 10% was just age of components especially the solenoid. Got a aftermarket one and it didn’t work well, got a motorcraft one and it closed the gap :-)
Mu 2016 "on the fly" system failed in the middle of the snow storm we got a couple days ago.
THANK GOD for the ability to still manually lock them or I would have been hooped!
Good info. Thanks
I love how I get "becoming a ford technician" ads on these videos lol
Hahahhahahah
Very good! I wondered how that vacuum worked. Btw looks like your coworker is greasing his axel 👍🏼👍🏼
💪💪💪💯💯💯
That was how I checked mine, great video and great content...
Thanks buddd
I have to guess that was somewhat the problem I had with my 2011 Expedition. The front differential would engage and disengage while driving down the street. It was diagnosed as a vacuum problem. Thank you God it was repaired and returned in one day.
On F-150, I believe applying vacuum disengages the axle. I prefer this, where application of vacuum engages the axle, where if you lose a vacuum line, you don't have an axle locking itself.
My 17, 6.7 has the old school handle and manual hubs.
On my 2007 my heater vent controls fluctuated between vents and defrost vents when the 4x4 was engaged when my hubs leaked vacuum. Not sure if that is the same on the new trucks but it certainly was an immediate telltale
Me i guess I'm just old fashioned and would rather get out of my truck and lock in my hubs when I needed
Auto lock is for those amongst us that are lazy. KISS principal! 🧐
Another Awesome Video 👊👍
Stupid new technology, I prefer my manual Warn hubs and manually shifted BW1345 transfer case in my 86 Bronco! (Front & Rear lockers also make it a beast, the 5.8L Lightning engine swap is also fun) 😁
nice video buddy. I need to add this to the OBS. locking hubs is, is for the birds
Lololol
Great video! My vacuum line broke between the bracket and the knuckle fitting. I need a replacement. Do you happen to know the part number? Having trouble locating it? The whole vacuum line would work as well. Thank you for your time!
I do not. Call dealer with your vin
#1 FoMoCo Tech
Excellent video. I just replaced front hub assembly. However I have a front growling noise. I jacked up the front and was able to manually lock the truck in 4x4. But what can cause this noise? Im thinking i didn't torque enough for a proper seal or a vaccum solenoid or vaccuum line. .... Thanks
Got lucky and found the line dry routed and broke added a piece of hose and fixed it
Wow from a King Ranch down to an XLT or Lariat.
Great video as usual.
On the passengers side of my 2008 F250,.I.found the vacuum line broken off at a little white what looks like a Lil, "one way valve," where can I but that, to replace it amd what the valve Called?
Thank you love your vids.
I had no hub activation the other day and it was the small plastic line near the solenoid.the heat in the engine bay makes those line brittle and it was broken in half.
Cool 👍
So glad my 1999 F-350 has manual locking hubs. Personally i see auto locking hubs as being lazy and not wanting to get out and lock the hubs yourself.
Great video, thanks! What work lights do you use under these rigs? @3:29 Your lighting is on point my friend! I run 13w LED bulb and I still can't see much under my truck. Thanks in advance.
They are cyclops...werk awwwwesome
Ford should have never stop making the 4x4 shift on the floor with the manual locking hubs. I personally never had a problem with my manual shift trucks.
Checking it by taking her to a sandy area and clicking over to 4hi. Stand on the brake and the loud pedal. Release brake and let it rip tater chip
I'm not a mechanic.... I have a 1999 f350 7.3 dually 4wd. Just finished brake rehab (rotors, pads, calipers, seals and brake hoses) and noticed the vacuum nozzle on the knuckle. Also noticed the vacuum line from behind the degas bottle. But, there's no vacuum line connecting the two. I've just locked the hubs manually. In a perfect world where everything is working, (seals, switches etc..) if I replace the vacuum lines to the knuckle, I should be in good shape? Thanks.
Yes
I have always been curious how ford does their hubs and 4x4, coming from a dodge and precious jeeps all with solid front axles it was always “in 4x4” I’m pretty sure this is known as a live front axle and then the engagement is just done at the transfer case, very interesting though. How often do you see the actual hub engagement fail on truck that’s made in the last 10 years?
No a whole lot but enough to have made us make this vid
Hey I know you! You’re also a doctor, firefighter, lawyer, and.Teacher!
Free or Lock solution
Can you save your axel shafts ( the zerk fitting knuckle area ) by not leaving in Manual fulltime? Just leave in auto and only use when needed? I had mine set in manual and forgot about it until recently.
Yea....a no good
Subscribed… great content!!! Does the vacuum system serve any other function on a 2011 f250 powerstroke? I replaced a cracked vacuum hose 5 years back. Not shifting on the fly into 4X4 was the symptom. It isn’t pulling a vacuum again and the same thing is going on. I suspect the hose has become brittle and cracked again? However, additionally, on start up I am getting an engine light code P1249 Waste Gate Performance. Might this also be a function of the vacuum system?
Cld be but the EGR system uses vacuum to control the EGR bypass. So if it was still a vacuum issue like a pump id suspect you'd have more DTCs
When I wash my 2021 f250 I manually lock and unlock my hubs to keep things from seizing up. When I do this, I notice fuzzy soap bubbles percolating up through the ford emblem on the hub. Is this normal? It does it when I go from lock and then back to auto.
It happens to me too!!!!!
I have asked a bunch of people and nobody seems to be able to tell me what causes this sound. I have a cracking/ bolts in a can sound when driving 10-30mph coming from the front driver side wheel around the hub area and I can’t seem to get it fixed! Any idea what causes it?
2017 f250 ( the brakes are all new as well)
I swear it was a sign of a bad gun bearing too. I’m pretty foggy on this one but I vaguely remember that being a thing. My lockouts are corroded pretty bad making them a pain to turn. Any tips on fixing that? I’ve heard soaking them in atf will help.
I have 2020 F-250 my 4wheel drive is not working had to lock hubs to get out. 😅
Fix that with some Warn premium manuals ole son.
If I put the Hub Lock On it would be better for 4WD?
I know this comments but I have a question changed oil in my 2021 350 6.7 put 13 quarts in checked it showed good on dip stick truck was on a small incline at entrance to shop I moved to driveway which is flat checked couple hours later it barley showed on very tip of dip stick any thoughts I did add a bit more but don't want to go to far
I run 14 in ours. If i let her drain fer a few hrs then come back
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ok thanks I let it drain for about 20 minutes I did about a bit more but was getting near dark and couldn't really tell if it was showing il revisit it in the day light tomorrow I figured I'd ask you you really seem to be know the 6.7'S like the back of your hand
💪💪💪💪
❤❤
Have you ever had an issue with the auto lock not engaging in cold and snow weather? I was driving up the mountain for work in a white out and when I switched into 4 wheel drive I got a service wrench icon after a few seconds and the 4WD did not engage. I was sliding all over. I got out and manually locked the hubs and it worked perfect. After I got down from the mountain to town, I checked the 4WD in auto and it worked fine. I have been checking it daily since and it works fine. Is it possible the cold and snow had a part in it not working?
Buddy, can’t believe the rust already on it. I’m a WV guy and clearly in the salt belt like you. Best thing I did was Fluid Film my Tremor the day I brought it home. 17k miles later even the tie rod threads show no surface rust.
What if you have the opposite problem ? It won't disengage, and I have the squeaking from the hub seal as well, but also when 4wd is turned on on the switch it starts making a popping type noise that is in synce with the wheel rotation, gets louder when it's in reverse and sometimes there's no noise
What about aftermarket wheels?
What if your hubs are starting to seize from auto to lock? Is that gonna effect it or if it’s in auto should it still put it in 4x4
I check my 4x4 with MUD!
My 19 f250 has just developed. It will not vacume lock or manual lock in 4x4. Any ideas??
I have a 7.3 4x4 and I have a concern about those locking hubs. What if someone plays with them while sitting in a parking lot and one or both is left in the lock position? How would I tell and could damage occur?
No really goin to damage anything. Your just spinning stuff that doesnt need to spin at the moment
My 2017 F-250 has two different lockout hubs up front. Driver side is "Auto and Lock", passenger side is "Free and Lock". Also, passenger side doesn't have an O-ring on the hub. So even if I wanted to pull a vacuum, it wouldn't work. Aren't they supposed to be the same on each side?
They r
My 2016 4 wheel drive works in 4 high when the hubs are in auto but for 4 low you have to lock the hubs in right is this right
So do all the current gen trucks have grease zerts on the cv joints on the front end and do the drive shafts have grease zerts on them?
Just front 4x4 axle shafts. 450 has 11 zerks
Where can I get that vacuum hose from? Mines is corroded badly and not allowing my 4x4 to engage properly
Ford desler
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod literally in the phone with them now! Thank you!
Hey Arod little off the mark but seeing the suspension what sway bar links and sway mounts do you recommend 2018 f250 4x4
Stock is all i have been around but our buddys over at PMF suspension have got a lot of great stuff for these rigs
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks I’m on it
Bro great vid but those dirty wheels 😭
Hello, no 4×4, 2003 f350 6.0. Fuse 19 10amp good, the 4×4 & low lock lights not comming on on dash when selector is turned to them. Does this info give my next step? Please.
No, id have 2 look at it...
Just did mine on 2012 f350 and found vacuum leak at passenger hub. Replaced both hubs because passenger hub came out in pieces
Oh dang
He’s already having problems? Or you were just illustrating on his truck?
Just a stage prop my friend
If I have leack the brack get bad??
Hey brother, 2022 F250 Tremor rear axle vent tube? What is at the end of tube? Should there be a check valve? Front?
No juss like a lil plastic vent cap
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I found at rear vent hose end, just a "V" looking hose coupler open ended. WTF, not even capped
Pics?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod where should I send pics?
Email is in ALL descriptions
Hey ARod I have a 2020 and in very cold weather it won't go in 4x4 and I need to manually lock ????
Hmmmmmmmmmm
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ya I know !! Snowmobile trip ....come to leave and no 4x4 ....thank God I have manual locks or I would have been stranded . Dash says it's in 4 hi but no dice .
This is too common on these trucks!!! Ford needs to come up with more reliable idea!!!
PLZ HELP. My 2020 super duty rear differential locks when i put it in 4x4 without diff lock button on. When i put it in rwd it unlocks rear diff .
Do what now...????
are the integrated wheel ends on the F150s opposite?
I recall having one that would make noise on heavy accel and found it was losing vacuum and I was hearing the wheel end transitioning to 4wd.
vacuum = 2WD on the F150s correct???
Yes, complete opposite from SD
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
Can you tell me the Ford approved way of towing them when they won't start?
No start= No vacuum= Stuck front hubs
In the winter I drag them around on the ice, but in the summer they don't like that
U cld use them poly tow skates
Just leave em locked and run it like a dodge 😂
Ha!!!
No because my truck is better with locking hubs...
You da man Arod 💪