the REAL Ford Death Wobble Fix
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- Опубликовано: 15 апр 2024
- The first time Tina takes our truck, she almost crashes.
I thought the 2021 was immune to the Ford DEATH WOBBLE, but I was wrong. Immediately I searched RUclips to find out the fix, but something inside said "this just isn't right".
Video after video had the same solution, get a steering stabilizer they said. That didn't make sense to me, so I set out to do more research and find the real fix.
Join me today as I uncover the real solution to making sure your Ford never wobbles again.
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*** UPDATE *** - I just released a STEP BY STEP guide and I did it on our brand new F350. Watch it HERE => ruclips.net/video/sG3kUG8Fh0Q/видео.html
Here is the part I ordered: ** IMPORTANT ** This was for my specific truck (2020 F350 SRW), make sure you find the appropriate part for your vehicle.
amzn.to/4aRsnIM
For my install, I set the bushing to 2.5 degree positive caster, 0 camber. (which is the most that you can get caster wise out of these bushings).
If you would like a more step by step, let me know and I might be able to throw something together.
Thanks!
I did alignments for a living , and so you know that Napa auto parts sells adjustable camber caster bushings, get the old out ,install new then getting it aligned
Thanks! Doing a video and getting the part from Napa. Appreciate the heads up on this!
Finally a truthful and accurate video on this. Everything else is a bandaid. Steering components become worn because of the alignment
I have a 97 Cummins and those are known for it too. I have no stabilizer or sway bar on 37s and my truck never gets it and never has. My truck calls for 3.5 degrees of caster and I have mine set to 5.1. I tell everyone that has death wobble that it’s their leveling kit that took all the caster out. I tell them their wheels are like shopping cart casters. I also tell everyone they want a bare min of 4.5 positive caster.
In the 70s my dad bought a used 1972 Ford F100 Explorer long bed that turned out to have had extreme death wobble. It could have new tires, brakes, steering linkages, alignment, etc. etc., and it would happen again. I had no idea that this was happening to modern Fords and was immediately reminded of my dad’s truck. I’m amazed to hear about this happening 52 years later with modern steering geometry. Good video, btw. Edit - it even had the steering gear box replaced. If memory serves me correctly, it tended to wobble if you were going down a grade on a bumpy road.
I owned a 1950 F1 Ford Truck and it had death wobble. That was my last Ford LOL.
1972 Ford has king pins not ball joints, but the kingpin bushings would wear out
This is exactly what causes the death wobble on Fords, especially if they've been lifted/leveled since these affect the caster angle. Thank you for explaining this!
Great problem solving!
This is appropriate for most solid axels especially for the Jeeps! We two Jeeps and caster is everything to avoid bump steer and death wobble as long as the other components are in good condition. Great video!!!
Definitely applies to the 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Zero issues until I got a "fresh alignment". The Jeep had a very very slight tiny pull to the right, amplified by a larger off road set of tires.
I love listening to you, you're so wise
Negative caster allows for easier steering by the driver while positive caster requires more effort but the truck will almost steer itself. Personally i prefer more effort to steer but most people are lazy af.
3/4 ton, diesel engine, 38x15.50 tires, negative caster ftw
Very well done video and excellent advice.
Thank you very much for the info.
Your rant is correct... Your analogy is perfect.
I also own a 2001 Excursion as my Tow Tractor... Lol it is an alert activity, to say the least
It sure was a cool truck though 😎
This is 100% true….i changed everything on the front end and nothing changed..wobble continued…I changed the caster bushing 1/4 degree and boom wobble gone…done …this subject has a million videos and the are all over the damn place. New bushings problem solved. Hell my stabalizer isn’t even connected and dead solid steering. Stock bushings have 0 degree New 1/4 positive. I took mine to the alignment place with bushings installed and a tad of grease to make them turn easy and they set them correctly…tightened the castle nut. PERFECTION.
It was nice to meet you in Q.
Great video on a great FIX😮
It was great to meet you as well!
And as far as tire pressure the door plate is pressure for max load for factory tires if running aftermarket tires and wheels the chalk method works great to determine pressure and if running empty pressure doesn’t need to be maxed out
I had a 72 econoline that had a death wobble due to a worn out bushing on the pitman arm. It happened around 75,000 miles. Bushing was a huge, unlubricated, rubbery design that looked like a roller on a boat trailer. I had to drive the vehicle to a stop to stop the wobble. I had a large frame shop replace the busing and align the front end which had those “I” beams. To adjust the camber the “I” beams had to be bent. They would put a chain at each end of the beam with enough slack to put a small bottle Jack between the chain and the beam. Pump the Jack to a number that had spring back figured in. That was a time I did most of the work myself but this was outside my pay grade. People riding in the truck when it would start to wobble were astounded by my composure bring vehicle to a stop and starting up and go again. I drove it with a wobble for about 6 months before I found out the cause at work. I was an engineer at ford in body engineering. Made a few phone calls to guys I knew from night school or bowling or golf that “knew a guy”. That’s was the pre-internet, internet. It always worked. Sometimes they would drag some parts out from under their desk if required.
as an old guy, learned this years ago, being around the drag races and rail dragsters was my introduction to caster. boy is it important in those chassis!
I have a 99 E350 class c it is a chore to drive there was a video of an RV owner with my same problem,said his wife would not drive it, He had 2.5 degrees positive caster bushings put in and said it made all the difference in the world and his wife will now drive it with no problem. I can do this I just needed to see the technical part of the video how it was actually installed. Thank you so much for posting this.
That's awesome to hear that the video was helpful for you! It's amazing how small adjustments can make a big difference in driving comfort.
Great video and diagnoses. You are spot on on the caster theory and proved success. Positive caster ideally should be slightly more on the right front to compensate for road crown. You have to wonder what Ford was thinking here kinda like the Bosch CP4 high pressure fuel pump that has been proven a bad design yet Ford continues using it on the 6.7 Powerstroke.
Yes, just had a run in with THAT too (the HPFP), stay tuned for that video! Have a good one!
I'm 70. I've been fixing my vehicles since I was 14. Before youtube we had something called 'TRIAL AND ERROR'. With no one to show you how to fix something it was a hell of a lot of error. I learned a lot of patience. But I'd rather of had youtube.
@jasmith1867 Yes, I do agree with this. Having RUclips vs trying to figure it out on your own has been huge for me too, at least to know the experiences and how it worked out for someone else. Thanks!
Interesting information. We have not experienced any issues like this with our Ford. - Michelle
Yes, I know guys that have the same truck and it never happened to them, so it's most likely that their truck is "within specs" on the positive side of caster, hopefully yours is as well. Thanks!
@@WeCanExploreIt Yes, hopefully!
caster turns into camber when wheels are turned to the left or right. it CAN effect tire wear to a small percentage. it depends on how much driving is done on tight curves.
My question also , as more caster causes the tires to “lean” to the side an wear on the side of the tread instead of all across … suspension geometry is TRULY “rocket science” and ability to think in 3D … I have no idea how much change 3% would affect tire wear but the hypothesis certainly makes sense … in the 50s we used to tilt the kingpins back to keep the tires flatter on the banked oval.. had no clue about centering ..
You kind of left me hanging. You dont show your install of that new bushing and how you dialed it in. A link to the bushing where you purchased it would have been welcomed by everyone who views this. Is there a descriptive name for that bushing that I could search for that would enable me to duplicate your results?
Thanks, just added the bushing link to a pinned comment here. Sorry I forgot to add that, and thanks for the reminder!
Bingo! My alignment tech had this conversation with me years ago after I installed new upper control arms to my Tacoma. The arms he recommended added more caster so the truck would track better. Imagine a hand truck you are pushing and the more upright it is, the more unstable the tracking is. Tilt the hand truck back more, all of a sudden it tracks much better. My Tacoma tracks great and it feels like I am on rails driving down the highway. It makes me wonder though if the Ford SD camber is set the way it is to accommodate more axle weight on the front end.
OMG is this the answer to my motorhome steering? I can't take my eyes off the road for a second, cuz if I do I'll be off the road. I have to be super focused 100 percent of the time. I've taken it to multiple alignment shops, and they say it's right, but there's really something wrong. I've been thinking about the stabilizers, and trying to stabilize something that's unstable, but this really makes a lot more sense. The way you explain this is spot on. I understand more about caster now than I have in my entire life, and I'm old. Can I get your thoughts on this? Should I be telling these alignment shops how to do their job? If this is right on, I have no problem doing just that, because so far they don't seem to have a clue.
It's very possible and would definitely be worth a try! Thanks!
I agree with your positive caster advice, as I've been adding it to modified lifted suspension trucks for years, by air gouging and rewelding the axle tubes to accommodate for pinion angle changes, and caster angles beyond the capabilities of replacement bushings. The only thing I have an issue with is the "Recommended Tire Pressure" that Ford tells it's customers. Ford doesn't make tires, and tires have gotten thinner and lighter over the years, and the Tire Manufacturers recommended air pressure is what has replaced the structure of the tire to enable the load rating. "IF" you have a tire related issue or defect, that manufacturer will NOT stand behind that tire, as it was used under inflated. Then there's the heat related issues, more rolling resistance, and premature wear that goes along with an under inflated tire. On steer tires I would run whatever pressure is stated on the tire especially. All your powertrain weight is mostly on the front of an empty pickup truck anyway. YMMV...
I like the max pressure listed on the TIRE. The ride is more stable (to me) and just feels better. and yes, YMMV.
I do not see a link to where you got this on Amazon. Thanks
Thanks, sorry just added pinned comment.
The death wobble Found on road nice job
With any death wobble always check every component in steering to make sure they are all tight.
You're also right that a low amount of positive caster can cause wondering and even shimming issues as the tires want to follow any road imperfections.
For on road use a decent amount of positive caster is wanted to keep you going straight but in off road low amount of positive caster is wanted as you don't want the vehicle to fight you while you're off wheeling in the back 40s.
At the end of the day a full inspection of the vehicle suspension and alignment check should be done in my opinion few times per year.
Thanks for the comment, that is a good point. Was wondering, when you go with the full off road setup, do they allow for more caster adjustment, or is it still using the stock bushing system to adjust caster at that point?
@@WeCanExploreIt It will very for set up of area you're wanting to off road in. High speed like highway you want more caster.
Any low speed/rock crawling/mudding where you want your steering to stay for the most part where you place it less caster.
The bushing you are using will in most application meet your needs. If you are wanting caster there are some nice kits out there ranging from $300-2k
I would say in road/high speed off road for an f250 +4-6 degrees caster will keep you straight as an arrow.
Slow rock crawling and what not +.5-2 degrees caster. This maybe be very loosie goosey at anything over 30 mph
Thanks Nick! Like #35 Did you ever do anything with your CP4 fuel pump? I am thinking about the S&S Diesel’s Ford 6.7 CP4 to DCR Fuel Pump Conversion Kit. Thoughts?
Got it all fixed up, working on that video too. It's back to stock, but one thing I'll be asking is for thoughts/suggestions as to how to minimize any trouble moving forward. Have a good one Dennis!
@@WeCanExploreIt I just took my 2017 F250 XLT out and I have no problem with steering over bumps or at speed. It tracks fine. I guess I have a positive canter
@@DennisWintjes2 Yeah, it's funny how some don't ever have an issue with it and some do.
As a friendly suggestion from a retired former ft. end/alignment tech, the toe-in should be checked/reset after any change is made to the spindle position or KPAI to insure minimum tire wear and maintain steering wheel center position. Even a slight change may have occurred to the camber and quickly feather-edge a set of expensive tires. Cheap insurance... Thanks, as your video here will help a lot of folks.
Thanks, will mention this in my follow up vid.
Jeep xj taught me about death wobble. I replaced everything with BDS 6.5 long arm lift lol
I never ever thought about the old 1974-1986 Chevy with worn out rag joints and components falling out! Damn near had to turn the wheel 2/3 the way around to get it to turn a curve 😂😂 never any death wobble
I run my tires at 60psi instead of 80psi. I air up if hauling a load. If I have my 8.5' snowplow installed, I air the front tires up to 80psi. I like the ride at 60psi when I'm empty
Death wobble is not a known to Ford only problem (weekend experts on the internet) nor caster only problem. Any vehicle with a solid axle and coil spring suspension can experience it due to many factors such as worn parts, alignment, lift kits, tire issues, etc... A knowledgeable tech (good luck finding one these days) will suggest caster bushings after checking the alignment if the owner is experiencing this problem and no other cause can be determined. You are correct that stabilizers only mask the problem. Glad you were able to adjust it yourself and remedy the problem. But caster adjustments alone are not 100% guaranteed to solve the problem.
I have a 2015 f350 and trying to pinpoint my wobble. I’ve had this truck over 2 years and it just started doing this last year.
So I lowered mine 2” aftermarket wheels (24” alcoas) and had these mods on for a year and never had an issue.
Parts lost , 2 alignment’s, outer tie rods, drag link bar, track bar ball joint and bushing , new shocks, wheel bearings, axle u joints and new steering stabilizer shock and still have an issue.
Ball joints look good and the alignment specs say I’m + 5 degrees. Is it possible that the caster shims are worn out?
Increasing positive castor will beat the edges of your tires more, but not so much that rotating them often won't fix that problem. That said race cars depending on there intended use often use more than typical cars and trucks as it helps with turn in speeds and stability, we won't talk about motorcycles here... lol
When doing this , if your going to add more than one degree caster you will likely require a bushing for both sides to equalize caster ,if you have a higher reading difference (cross caster) , usually 1.5-2.0 degrees or more the vehicle may pull left. also keep in mind some of there adjusters affect camber ,the tilt of the wheel in and out and cause excessive tire wear (cross camber) most shops wont mess with this , discuss the bushing change first
before giving you their money. Expect to replace the ball joint more often as it loads the ball joint differently.
As others stated , get your alignment checked after this modification , it could wipe out your tires.
The reason the caster gets lower on the right side is because thats where the bumps and potholes live, the caster angle gets bumped back.
I lifted my 95 XJ with long arms and a Dana 44 high pinion front axle and designed in 6 1/2 degrees of castor just for this very reason.
Where did you end on Caster... What degree? I agree, used to teach automotive years back and caster was a valid Non-Tire Wearing adjustment for adjusting streering behavior (Toe & Chamber wear tires). Your Bike fork is a great example; Can also relate to a shopping cart, which is always a negative caster and ft wheel often rattles & shakes back & forth as you push it.
Steering neutrality, return to center track, ease of leaving center track, response to bumps and steering reaction to jounce & rebound... All variables of caster.
From Zero... Adding Positive (top pin rearward) improves holding and returning to center track, and slow steering response... These give a more stable feel on wheel. Increasing positive to extreme will push the tire contact point beyound it's ideal center zone relationship to spindle.
You're correct, adding a little positive will improve center track alignment, too much positive will begin to introduce a different wobble based on tire / spindle angle relationship.
Negative chamber enhances off-road steering by reducing desire to return to center track and places tire contact slightly behind spindle axis... Providing more agility in steering and ease move off of center track. As a off-road example that uses positive camber to provide center track in dirt and not quick steering are Ag Tractors. Their goal is to enhance straight steering in loose dirt and use strong positive caster.
Adjusting caster used to be a common adjustment with older suspension when all 3: Chamber, Caster, Toe were all easily made to adjust.
Pushing a little positive (1-5 degrees) will normally always improve steering stability and retain center track. Too much can induce a new wobble.
Great work & video... You're on track!
Ended up going to 2.5 positive on caster, 0 degree for camber. I'm shooting another vid more detailed and how I got to where I did. Thanks!
an example of caster is, think of a shopping cart, when you have a wobbly wheel it's from bad caster that was the easiest way I learned about caster
My truck does it too will this cause so truck pulling sometimes when you turn sharp ?
I haven't noticed any negative effects of adding positive caster to the truck. I actually like it more now than our mini van
It's a simple toe adjustment.
People think you need toe in.
You dont.
It can be very touchy on some vehicles, so its best just to adjust your toe out a touch at a time, til it stops.
Then set your steering wheel.
Camber and other things can make a difference, but the root cause is the tires not tracking together.
Toe is always relative to camber. Positive camber requires toe in, negative camber require toe out to make the tire straight.
No wobble in my 1980 F-150 shortbed. Also no airbags, no door alarms, no cameras, no ECM, 😊
I had a 1995 Lincoln Town car that did the same thing. Dealership wanted about $500 to do this. I sold the car. I wish I had known about this back then.
My dad taught me about bicycles when i was a preteen. I didn't put it all together like you did.
Thank you for figuring this out and for posting!
glad to do it, thanks for stopping by!
I love the pics, but I do not understand why you think it's okay to change the caster which I do agree with. But you're okay with Ford telling you to run your tires much softer than the vehicle should have even though it just makes it a little bit more comfortable to drive. The reason why most tires are under inflated is because it makes the car ride better. You will get better Tire performance and better driving with at least bringing them up buy a number of pounds.
I think it's OK to change because it made the death wobble completely go away, and the truck steers very nicely still. It's been over a year since I recorded this video, and the tires have worn just as I thought they should. Inflating at 50-60 is what Ford says based on the weight that the front of the vehicle will have either loaded or unloaded, Ford says higher in the back to cover themselves in all cases (like if you're running with a heavy load or empty). Running full PSI when empty is a harsh ride, so I adjust as needed. Thanks for stopping by and for the comment!
Where can I get these for my 1989 ford super duty. And what do i ask for. Thank you in advance.
Check out my pinned comment where I went to Napa to get the part. They should be able to get what you need there.
I have the exact same bushings. It looks to me like the small arrow (thick end) should go to the rear of the truck. Is this correct?
Hey Tim I can't remember unfortunately and I didn't save the instructions for the white truck. You might be able to look it up on Amazon
Ford as with other manufacturers don’t add extra castor because it makes steering stiffer at low speeds and you can tell when stopped ant turning steering especially at idle and they want to sell trucks so they make then steer easily for comfort
There is a reason that companies that make lifts and kits for these trucks use drop brackets for radius arms or an radius arms with adjustable settings that is to add castor Anytime the front goes up the castor angle decreases physics
I agree and to be honest it seems that the power steering takes it in stride, I didn't really notice much change at low speeds. Ahh I can see where at idle it may be stiffer
I lifted my 2023 f250 and installed 37s on the factory wheels. Drives great and the alignment shop said everything was good. I have 0 death wobble and my steering isnt to hard. Do i really need this?
Why will you need this is you have 0 death wobble?
@mbmpablo3631 That was my question. Everyone on the internet seems to say I do even though there are no problems yet.
Can it just be zero caster? I was taught young that zero was the best for drivable balance. Balance between self centering easy steering and wondering/constant hands on three wheel. By zero I mean the middle of whatever specs were
This is great, but what you should've done is film it 'death wobbling' and then film it again after the mod on the same road & at the same speed to demonstrate the improvement.
The thing with the death wobble is that it might not be perfectly repeatable, and when you get it you might not have a camera handy (or another person that wants to try to film it). It was an immediate improvement but it was only "felt" by me, which is why I waited a year (and 30k miles) to release it. That and the fact that the linkages had even more time to wear so that if any death wobbling was going to happen, it should have for sure happened by now. Thanks!
I wonder what would happen if someone made an offset bushing set for the link-arm mounts to rotate the whole axle by a few degrees?
That is an interesting idea. Someone said something about an off road lift kit of some sort, I wonder if they already have something like this
I replaced the drag link, steering gearbox and pump on my 78 f250 2wd in 2020. It seems like within weeks the steering was worse and then developed a real bad bumpsteer wobble.
I am not sure why ford would spec 0 caster. If you load the back down.. then you would gain caster. But if vehicle loaded correctly.. it won't be much.
Inflate tires to the vehicle spec for best wear pattern. Only variance I would say is if you have a f350 and you don't haul loads ( like it's intended), then drop the pressure a bit. Make 10psi from the spec.
F150 or passenger car.. follow the sticker.
The term death wobble doesn’t remind me of my truck . It reminds me of where it came from originally and that is Harley!
That would totally freak me out on a motorcycle for sure.
You used a bike as an example. A bunch of those ship with the forks backwards to shorten the box, and then and get assembled at some store by someone too incompetent to notice. And you know the result.
All the heavy duty trucks, no matter the brand , all get the death wobble. Not just Fords. Chevy/GMC and Ram also do this.
This happened to my 2016 F259 in 2021. 3 different dealers couldn't fix it. Finally it just stopped and hasn't happened since. Knock on wood..
I'm working on a step by step, might be worth doing just in case.
The shopping cart analogy would've worked as well.
So, I've heard this one too, but I couldn't wrap my head around how the shopping cart wheels are opposite of the "rake" of a bike (or the truck in this case), is it because it's being "driven"?
“Trail” is the dimension that caster or rake actually controls. Trail is the distance from the steering axis pivot point at ground level back to the center of the tire contact patch.
Look up “rake and trail “ as it applies to motorcycles and you will learn how it applies.
@@truthboomertruthbomber5125 appreciate it!
The part he left out is when you turn that sleeve it also moves your camber you have to keep your camber from 0 to a half positive to keep from haveing tire wear so you can only get so much positive caster an keep your camber right I ran a alignment shop for 45 years so I know what I’m talking about you believe what you want it’s nothing to me just telling it like it is
Changed mine years ago
Old news, Chevy straight axle square bodies had about 10 degrees caster, new superduty spec is 0, Jeep JK stock is about 3, lift them 2.5 inches you want 4, lift 3 go to 5 degrees, over that 6 degrees minimum. 42 year tech
Pretty sure you have that backwards. Too much positive caster causes shimmy. At least that was case on my Chevy K30 farm truck.
Positive caster gives more rake to the axle. I know what you mean though because it can be confusing when you think about it too much
@@WeCanExploreIt Positive caster being defined as kingpin inclination tilted with top more toward rear of vehicle. It's been 50 years since I was in auto mechanic class and I have only worked professionally as industrial mechanic last 25. So I just asked Google to insure I didn't give bad advice. Google agreed with my original post: too much positive caster causes shimmy. And too little causes roadwalking.
@@channelview8854 I *think* we're saying the same thing? kingpin inclination tilted with top toward the rear of vehicle, giving it more of a rake when looking from the side. I wanted to be SURE to say the right thing so I looked it up multiple places as well. I just now did a search on google for "positive caster definition" and that confirms that what I did in this video was add positive caster to the Ford truck.
@@channelview8854and with that positive caster added, removed the death wobble completely, for over 30k miles now, towing, empty all. Nothing ever done to the linkages, stabilizer, etc. That was done with the original stock rims and tire size, as well as now offset rims and slightly larger tires. I'm not sure of the implications for a K30, but for the Ford, its the fix
@@WeCanExploreIt Hey man, thanks for the video and a very collegial discussion. Have a good one!
I just shared with my uncle that has a death wobble on a f450
Sounds good let me know how it goes for him.
@@WeCanExploreIt I will. He has had everything replaced too, same shit
@@troygemmell8543 Terrible
Coat it with anti-seize
The reason for the Ford caster angle is so that the steering would be easier with a load on. Those trucks were designed for work. Nobody works their truck anymore. The guys that do are happy with it. If you need an F350 to go to the grocery store, you must buy tons of food. You can't design something to be driven with weight in the bed and keep people that want it to be a car happy.
I get the gist of this, but no one drives these trucks 100% loaded all the time, not even "workers".
@@WeCanExploreIt I did for 9 years, my truck weighed over 9,000 lbs every day of it's life. I work on these trucks with tool boxes, beds full of tools and have to take everything out to lift them on the hoist. The F150 was designed for people to have a truck like a car. Ford has built them like this for years.
@@Sabin-ql5ck I should not have said "no one" LOL.
@@Sabin-ql5ck my point is that Ford should design a truck that works well the way they build it as well as being used for what it can do. I have that thing loaded well and with 2.5deg caster it still steers like a champ
Why Ford hasn’t figured this out is absolutely embarrassing and unacceptable
This video seems like click bait. How about more installation information and at least a link to the part.
Sorry, just added the link in a pinned comment. Thanks for the heads up!
Also, installation is VERY much determined by the vehicle, but let me know if a step by step would be helpful
Yes, step by step on an F350, your vehicle would be great. That's why I watched this video. Thanks for your response.
@@KimFieldstad I'm working on it now, hope to have it out tonight or tomorrow. Thanks!
Amazon line
Why is Ford not doing this? Must be a negative affect
I didn’t get it because I don’t buy that ford trash.
Sounds like you've got it figured out
The bushing changes caster and camber. You might get the caster you want, but not the camber. They make several bushings of varying degrees. You are better off letting the shop install the bushings with alignment. We always had a selection to get caster and camber the best possible. This video is lacking a lot of information. Kinda doing a disservice.
The bushing changes both, so you can definitely choose both. I'm doing a follow up to this video to show more info. Thanks
I have a 97 Cummins and those are known for it too. I have no stabilizer or sway bar on 37s and my truck never gets it and never has. My truck calls for 3.5 degrees of caster and I have mine set to 5.1. I tell everyone that has death wobble that it’s their leveling kit that took all the caster out. I tell them their wheels are like shopping cart casters. I also tell everyone they want a bare min of 4.5 positive caster.