I was a Ford shop foreman 10years that was enough Ford but an engineer did show me an easy driveshaft balance with a hose clamp on the shaft but not completely tightened, Jack stands under rear axle, someone in the truck running the speed to optimize the vibration. A second person with a piece of heater hose taps the clamp until the driver beeps the horn when the vibration is gone. This an approved repair.
I would just like to take a second to say you are completely awesome, thank you for video, my vacuum line was broken and now me and my wife can go and play in the snow with our 4x4. Thanks
Here in New Hampshire, they use tons of salt. The fenderbergs melting in my driveway, actually kills my grass by the run off. Both of my e350s are rotting slowly from the bottom up.
Great video again ! I am parts guy here in Finland, I sell US car parts (GM, Mopar Ford+Speed parts)here in Finland and this video was really helpful to me because now i understand how that system really works and what are the weak points. So it's easier me to sell right parts to customer. Thank´s again !
That vacuum system is a complete nightmare! All to save a guy from climbing out of their truck for 20 seconds and turning the lock outs. Fine job find and fix the problem though. With as fast as they wear out one could go broke feeding that thing seals! Thanks for the video.
Great job! You did an excellent job explaining the process. I'm a mechanical Engineer and a do it yourselfer, but I think you convinced me to take my truck to a qualified mechanic. I don't want to spend the money on that tool.
Super interesting video. Didn't know a whole lot about 4WD systems. But if anyone's wondering, those seals that rotate inside themselves are called "labyrinth seals". Pretty neat parts on their own.
Great video. Thanks for showing all of the steps. I really appreciate you showing when you temporarily forgot to check the other side for a vacuum leak. Makes the video stick in your mind. Thanks again.
first time I've ever left a comment on a video, but this vid was so well done that I had too. Had similar failure of autolock hubs not engaging on my 2002 F250SD...the vacuum gage readings that the author showed in his video were critical to figure out what I should be seeing on my truck. I was getting vacuum at the wheel ends of the vacuum lines when selecting 4WD in the cab, so it showed my solenoid was operating...it was just low, only around 4" of Hg or so...this vid showed me I should be seeing around 20". Poked around and got around 20" of Hg at the inlet of the solenoid (red hard plastic line) and was only getting 4" of Hg at the solenoid outlet (black hard plastic line)....replaced solenoid and vacuum immediately went to 20" downstream of the solenoid valve. 4x4 worked. Thank you!!!
excellent video, i have a vacuum leak but never thought about putting smoke in the knuckle to find out where it was leaking. After seeing how to replace the seal i think i will just twist the hub when i need 4-wheel drive.
Excellent how-to video. Seal tool: On the drive shaft end I used the cap off an acetylene bottle. On the hub part I used the bell end of a piece of ~8” long x4” sch 40 up against the seal and put a cap on the non bell end and whacked it on with a hammer.
I re-installed an old seal on a '06 F-250 just tapping it in around in a circle with a large punch. Nowhere near as quick as having that tool, but, that was the first F-250 I've ever done ... and I haven't seen one here since (not too sad about that, lol). I'd imagine trying this with a brand new seal would be a severe ball-buster, for sure. Luckily the old one was still good. Had to do upper and lower ball joints on the thing. Had to borrow a giant wrench from a shop down the road to finish it too. Was my neighbor's truck, and his brother helped me - was some brute-force labor on that job. Was glad I had help. Can't remember how I got those massive ball joints out, but I remember it being a fight all the way. I'll probably pass on the next one! Rust central ...
10:43 My 2004 6.0 F350 Takes forever for the vacuum to drop off of the front hubs. We have been doing the manual turnout method you described by disconn solenoid and turn hubs manually. X-fer still OK. Hey Eric! Rather have you work on my truck, You don't need practice. You got this!
Thank you for this insight. We have this same truck, but a 99 with 420,000 miles on it and you led me to the broken vacuum line at the hubs, fixed and they work like they should. Five minute fix. Awesome!
Just to let you know them tools are now under 80 dollars with handle. Good catch on checking otherside as when I was watching I wondered if you were going to check it. Good video
As when all is a new idea, every part cost a bundle. Now the entire seal kit can be found on Amazon for a little more than a song. The inner hub seal was amazingly costly back then, and is now in the kit of O-rings. The tool for the specific years, are a must have.
Excellent work on that tube smoke boogie! And please, ignore the whiners that think you halfassed it. I am grateful for your humor, explanation and unbiased commenting. Wow...never realized how beefy that F250 is and yet...vacuum lines look delicate and cheap seal keep SMA in work 😀
It's a good idea to make sure both hubs actually disengage. Spinning the rear wheels only proves that the transfer case is disengaged. My truck had a habit of disengaging one of the hubs, but not the other.
This guy is a real mechanic and not a parts changer. This is who i would have work on my truck. Im a mechanic but i work 12-18 hour shifts so sometimes i need to pay someone to work on my truck.
I've done those a few times and installing that seal without the tool isn't fun and even with it you need to just take your time hats off too you Eric you make my days so much more interesting and look forward to what's in store for me everyday. Keep wrenching my friend
I have watched plenty of videos on the wheel hub and bearing assemblies. Your video is so in depth and explained so well in detail, I can just about picture and understand all the working parts of the assemblies by memory alone now. Great video. thank you
Great work man. I have learned allot of things from you. You are right, they are designed to fail. They could use a bearing that has the same thickness instead of that seal. Damn that is one bad design.
Good stuff Eric. I attempted to help my nephew troubleshoot the vacuum hubs on his Ford truck over the phone a couple of years ago. Now I see why it was such an epic fail! Thanks for showing us how it's done!
Man I want to say thanks. You answered all my questions in one video that I couldn't find in 4 other videos. Very detailed and all the proper zooms in needed. Thanks man
you can make that same hub seal driver with a pipe flange and pipe. I just made one a few months back on an Excursion. Cost was $25. you need to grind the flange to fit the hub bore and really take care to not over drive it in or under drive it in. I managed in a driveway and may have shot a video of it.
Excellent videos on the F250, all the way from start to finish on ball joints, axle seal replacement and tie rod ends. Appreciate the detailed info on tools required for the job! Nothing worse than getting into a repair and not having what you need. Did need to cut a couple pieces of three inch pipe for the ball joint install, tool from HF didn't come with all the sizes but still worth $100
Good job showing where all the lines are. My auto lock didn't work. Found one side disconnected on mine after noticing that the vent air was switching from dash to defrost on its own when turning on 4WD. Fixed it just in time for snow to fly. Thank you for the help.
Hey buddy don't beat yourself up for not checking the other side. The video was well done, and better, you are no different than the rest of us. We all make simple mistakes. But I like the fact your humble enough to admit your error and keep it in the video. I would feel confident have you service my 2013 F350. With only 30,000 miles on it. Love the video. Very informative and very well explained. Good job my friend. Barry
The video may be OLD but new to me. I have a 150 with some chatter on the driver's side. When the weather breaks(Illinois winters) I will climb under it to sort all of this out. It's a 2002 model with the 4x4 on-the-fly shift. Maybe with the truck being 20-plus years young, I will just replace all of the hoses just to do some preventive drama. Not sure if you go back to look at the comments but thanks for the fine show that has always been done. Have a great day/week.
I've been watching your videos for a long time now and I never realized you are so close! We're right in Bloomfield. I'm definitely going to keep you in mind.
Holy shit! What a perfect explanation of a system I sit on every day; had no clue about and my bills rely on my truck. Thank-you and please keep going!!!!
Glad to see you admit to your mistake, instead of trying to hide it. Also, that is an incredibly, insanely ridiculous sealing setup. What was Ford even thinking?
Eric, I have driven in the rear hub seal using the larger cones from a tire balancer machine. The size and shape are close to the special seal driver kit you have. However, getting the depth correct is tricky and requires attention to detail! Just need to take note of the depth prior to removal of the axel during disassembly. Great video (as always), I guess it may or may not pay to get the kit depending on how many of these older style trucks a guy really works on. For where I am in MN we don't see many of these around anymore, but I just thought I'd throw it out there for those who are in the field working in a retail shop without the expensive kit available.
Eric, that was an awesome video. I have a 2005 Ford F350 Super Duty that won't shift into 4WD, thanks for the tips and troubleshooting. I feel that when you beat yourself up for not checking the vacuum on the drivers side that when you pinched the vacuum hose on the driver side and the passenger side vacuum didn't change, I feel that was a good test.
Eric, We need more Ms. O please!!! She brings a feminine touch to SMA baby!!! 1, 2, BBQ!! Love the videos, thank you for the education!! Rock on brother!
Eric after watching all of your videos I purchased a Toyota Tundra because I have never seen you repair one lol. I was wondering if you would do a video on changing the transmission fluid in your Tundra so we can see how to get fluid level correct without a transmission dipstick. Thank you for all the effort that you put into your videos they are the best ones on You Tube.
lol I was hoping you'd catch that. I was thinking ummm you had both sides isolated, how do you know it's the driver. Glad you caught that before getting farther into it.
1973 Pinzgauer I worked on had hydraulically actuated locking differentials and 2/4/6 wheel drive. It was original and still worked flawlessly. No vacuum, no getting out to turn hubs, just pull a lever. I think that particular Pinzgauer is on the set of "Stranger Things" for Netflix right now.
Mark's F350 needed ball joints and we had to replace those seals. We had them replaced at a truck repair shop. Another problem with the vacuum system was the steel lines filling with rust. Drilled them open so vacuum could get to the hubs.
@@curtisroberts9137 except..... the ford trucks in 82 used manual locking hubs (aka, get out and turn a "knob" on the hub) and GM used auto FULLY MECHANICAL hubs.... this shit was designed in the LATE 90s!!!!!!!! i think the dude who designed this thought it was 1896...... and not 1996.....
@@311hitwall I don't know for sure about the 2020s. I'm pretty sure the newest one I've seen was a 2016 or 17. It was a fleet vehicle so I don't know if they're any different than the when's it the average guy buys
if the other side was leaking it would not held the vacuum so you did not need to test the otherside however for my own vehicle if I'm doing the seals on one side I would rather just do both sides and know that it will not fail a month down the road on the otherside. great video and you definitely are a real mechanic and not a parts changer. Good job!
You could say the new style inner tube seal 27:45 was plastic or deformable or maliable or pliable. So yeah Professor O. it is certainly the right word.
thanks for showing me the tool. i just made one from a trailer jack top. worked minty* used the thrust washers as a gauge to seat the seal to the right depth
Eric it is truly beautiful where you live. My wife's family is from New Hampshire and I have visited up there once. Can't wait to be back up in New England...:-)
Great video as usual. I don't know what I'd do without my smoke machine...makes diagnosis so much easier. Part of the reason labor prices are high is to pay for all the tools required for diagnose & repairs. Can't wait for my Pico to arrive and thanks again!!
I hear that! $1,600 for my Autel, a grand for the smoker, now need a J-box, laptop, and the Pico. Oh ... and a concrete pad and a lift! Going to be a lean year for me here, lol.
You don't need all of it b/c you can do a lot with a test light, loaded circuit, DVOM, Brakleen or propane and a water bottle but to be efficient and be able to isolate dropouts, glitches, or smoke a hub, intake, EVAP, etc then the better diagnostic equipment like smoke machines, lab scopes, etc come into play. I have a Verus Edge and it can do just about anything but the Pico is heads & tails above the capability of the Verus so fixing the difficult problems just got a little easier. Sounds like you are tooling up...you know I have a saying that you can never have too many tools as long as you use them. The fun part is using them!
Seems like overnight that one day I was using a timing light, changing carb jets, plugs, wires, caps and rotors ... and the next thing I know, cars with "check engine" lights were everywhere. I resisted as long as I could (20 years lol). I focused my attention on motorcycles, and OPE, but now the time has come. After seeing Eric, Paul, Ivan, the "other" Eric, and several others on RUclips, I finally had a place to get the knowledge I was thirsting for. I had been fumbling with '96+ vehicles for all that time, never really grasping how these things could be troubleshot with 99% certainty - I didn't think it was possible! Used to frustrate the hell out of me. Seemed like everything was a big secret - just couldn't get the right information anywhere I looked. Spent hours on the net with nearly every job. I have been getting by without these tools for a long time, but I've come across many cases where I found myself wishing I had the smoke machine, & scope (the lift is a daily wish, as my back and arms remind me with throbbing pain, lol). - heck, I just got the Autel this past summer - prior to that, I had no bi-directional capability. Got lucky many times just going on instinct, and help from Google. Would much rather have the ability to do it 100% right, do it quick, and do it once. The RUclips guys have got me motivated. :) Neighbor's car has positive fuel trims - I know it has a vacuum leak ... somewhere. Suspected the intake gaskets, as I had just done that job on nearly the same vehicle days prior. Tried water, visual inspection, and even cigar smoke (neighbor nearly passed out puffing away!) - still can't find it. Was wishing I had the smoke machine that day ... Made the decision to go all-in, because I'm seeing that this computer stuff ain't going away ... it's only becoming more complicated every single year! Pays better than working on OPE too. :)
Yep understand!. If you really want to learn at an extremely cheap price the subscribe to Paul's Scanner Danner Premium Channel and buy his book. You're watching the right channels & learning from great mech/techs. Wells Tech has some great videos also & he just got a Pico and is going to start using it for diagnostics and he is also teaching videos on fuel trims right now. I took high school Auto Mechanics in the AM in High School & went to BOCES all afternoon in my senior & junior days so High School was pretty sweet back then. I started working in a dealership in 1974 and the rest is history. The points/condenser days were boring to me, even the electronic & HEI days but today's cars are fun to diagnose & rewarding to fix although sometimes you want to blow them up. Hope this helps a little.
Thanks man! I appreciate the info! I actually just ordered Paul's book this afternoon. :) Been wanting to sub his Premium channel for a while now, but between the tooling and Christmas, the ol' bank account is approaching the danger zone, lol. It's definitely on the short list. I find myself wanting to blow these newer ones up more often than not, LOL! I make sure to throw the Craftsman tools, and not the Snap-On ones ... :D
being a youtuber myself I can greatly appreciate the time you took to make this vid despite having a very busy shop...so, thank you!! And the smoke machine was new to me...got one on order now!
If you have the smoke machine, why waste all that time in the beginning? Why not just shoot smoke into each hub first thing to check them both to be certain, then shoot smoke down from the reservoir to check all the lines?
According to the Ford service manual, if you turn the Mode Switch Select on the dashboard to 4x4 high, the system will enter an approx 51 second cycle to apply a higher (> 9" Hg approx) vacuum to engage 4x4 mode, then vent the vacuum. If you turn it back to 2WD during this cycle, it will have no effect until the first cycle completes. At that time, a lower vacuum (approx 6" or 7" Hg) is applied to take the system out of 4x4. The 2WD cycle time is approx 15 seconds, but can be overridden by switching back to 4WD.
You can make a seal installation tool with an 8" piece of galvanized pipe, a pipe cap, & a 4"? flange. You will have to grind the diameter of the flange down to fit the seal properly, & the 1.5" pipe will slide over the axle shaft. The cap gives you a nice place to hit & keep the blows centered. All of the parts can be purchased at Lowes/Home Depot for like $25. I did mine this way & it worked perfectly. The special tool does prevent overdriving the seal where the flange/pipe/cap tool does not, but it still works just fine.
Great tutorial. The bad news: my auto locking hubs haven’t been working for years. The good news: apparently I’m a better 2wd off-roader than I thought I was
We really enjoy your videos. Don't stop making them, please. I wouldn't worry about forgetting to complete the diagnosis. I'd worry about forgetting your name. That comes later.
ford mechanic told me to spray some PB blaster garage door lube into the IWE few times a year..where the vac lines connect..does a good job keeping everything lubed ...the seals dry up crack and then you have leaks.
working shlub I've heard of adding lube too, after seeing this I'd be inclined to add a couple ounces of thick gear oil, at least enough to reach the seal area and keep it lubed / wash away grit.
Replaced a LOT of the hub seals when I worked for ford. Use to pull the lock ring and snatch the hub off coat it in vaseline then recheck vaccum. About 85% of the time it was just the Oring had failed
I really enjoy watching your videos... You show things that can happen, we all forget steps sometimes! You get vehicles that other shops can't figure out and you go the extra mile to get it figured out! My hat is off to you!!!👍 Another note... I've only seen one video of your New kitchen at your shop... Does Mrs O still make you those Healthy Meals? Lol... You are a Great Insperation to the auto repair industry... Thanks for Watching!!!
Jay Kay it’s simple and works quite well generally. At least has a lockable option. Saves the front axles from always rotating causing wear and tear on everything else
I've been manually locking my hubs in my Excursion since replacing my ball joints. Didn't wanna spend the money on new seals and the tool. I like having manual lockouts on trucks, only fail if they're worn out.
Good use of your smoke machine, here in Ontario they canceled the emissions testing program so I imagine there is a few smoke machines collecting dust if the guys aren’t creative enough to use the machine for things other then intended original purpose .
Love all your videos, very informative and your unique onhands teaching, speaking of hands you need to start seeing y rhuemetologist, your fingers look arthritic. I've suffered for years with arthritis. It ended my 40yr career as an Auto Body Tech. Keep up the great work. Hello to Mrs O
These Vacuum Systems Are A Pain they are failure prone vacumm actuator or The Hub seals or vacuum lines Good Video as Always Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Never second-guess the guy actually doing the work. Also, it's your shop. The mistakes will find you one way or the other without the peanut gallery's hounding. But, you did mention the issue when returning to check the vacuum draw on the right side... "As long as any possible leak is smaller than the vacuum draw, a simple gauge test won't definitively indicate one." Rather than smoking just at the left hub, it would have been a good idea to back-check the lines and other hub from that location too. Keep up the good work! As a DIY'er whose cars, trucks, power equipment, and sports vehicles have *never* seen the inside of a retail shop, I've learned a ton concerning emissions systems and diagnosis from your RUclips endeavors. I much appreciate your willingness to take the time and effort to share your knowledge!
You are a phenomenal mechanic, and I'm I'm not trying to beat you up, but I believe the seal installation tool would be better served by using a large dead blow hammer instead of the ball peen hammer. It will make it last longer, just a thought.
I was a Ford shop foreman 10years that was enough Ford but an engineer did show me an easy driveshaft balance with a hose clamp on the shaft but not completely tightened, Jack stands under rear axle, someone in the truck running the speed to optimize the vibration. A second person with a piece of heater hose taps the clamp until the driver beeps the horn when the vibration is gone. This an approved repair.
I would just like to take a second to say you are completely awesome, thank you for video, my vacuum line was broken and now me and my wife can go and play in the snow with our 4x4. Thanks
Couldn't imagine living somewhere where the rust will ruin a otherwise good vehicle. My 06 f250 with 220k still doesn't have rust. Love this channel.
Here in New Hampshire, they use tons of salt. The fenderbergs melting in my driveway, actually kills my grass by the run off. Both of my e350s are rotting slowly from the bottom up.
Great video again !
I am parts guy here in Finland, I sell US car parts (GM, Mopar Ford+Speed parts)here in Finland and this video was really helpful to me because now i understand how that system really works and what are the weak points.
So it's easier me to sell right parts to customer.
Thank´s again !
You're the man !
This is a good lesson for every tech to stop, step back, and review everything before you commit to a completed diagnosis.
That vacuum system is a complete nightmare! All to save a guy from climbing out of their truck for 20 seconds and turning the lock outs. Fine job find and fix the problem though. With as fast as they wear out one could go broke feeding that thing seals! Thanks for the video.
Great job! You did an excellent job explaining the process. I'm a mechanical Engineer and a do it yourselfer, but I think you convinced me to take my truck to a qualified mechanic. I don't want to spend the money on that tool.
O'Reilies has a tool rental program. Not sure if they have this one.
i learn something new every time i watch an EricO vid. i would have never thought to use a smoke machine to test for a leaky seal.
Use the smoke machine for everything!
Super interesting video. Didn't know a whole lot about 4WD systems. But if anyone's wondering, those seals that rotate inside themselves are called "labyrinth seals". Pretty neat parts on their own.
Great video. Thanks for showing all of the steps. I really appreciate you showing when you temporarily forgot to check the other side for a vacuum leak. Makes the video stick in your mind. Thanks again.
TLC has "How it's Made".... RUclips has Eric O's "How it Breaks." Always good videos, brutha.
صض
What video where is it please???
I appreciate that you videos don’t have tons of cussing like may others. Thanks for not editing out your “mistake” helps me learn more this way!
Glad to see you are human and admit when you almost made a mistake. I was hoping you was going to check the other side.
I am not a animal ¡!!!!!!!!!!!! . What movie is that from ?
@@kenj.8897 the first planet or the apes I believe.
first time I've ever left a comment on a video, but this vid was so well done that I had too. Had similar failure of autolock hubs not engaging on my 2002 F250SD...the vacuum gage readings that the author showed in his video were critical to figure out what I should be seeing on my truck. I was getting vacuum at the wheel ends of the vacuum lines when selecting 4WD in the cab, so it showed my solenoid was operating...it was just low, only around 4" of Hg or so...this vid showed me I should be seeing around 20". Poked around and got around 20" of Hg at the inlet of the solenoid (red hard plastic line) and was only getting 4" of Hg at the solenoid outlet (black hard plastic line)....replaced solenoid and vacuum immediately went to 20" downstream of the solenoid valve. 4x4 worked. Thank you!!!
excellent video, i have a vacuum leak but never thought about putting smoke in the knuckle to find out where it was leaking. After seeing how to replace the seal i think i will just twist the hub when i need 4-wheel drive.
Excellent how-to video. Seal tool: On the drive shaft end I used the cap off an acetylene bottle. On the hub part I used the bell end of a piece of ~8” long x4” sch 40 up against the seal and put a cap on the non bell end and whacked it on with a hammer.
I re-installed an old seal on a '06 F-250 just tapping it in around in a circle with a large punch. Nowhere near as quick as having that tool, but, that was the first F-250 I've ever done ... and I haven't seen one here since (not too sad about that, lol). I'd imagine trying this with a brand new seal would be a severe ball-buster, for sure. Luckily the old one was still good. Had to do upper and lower ball joints on the thing. Had to borrow a giant wrench from a shop down the road to finish it too. Was my neighbor's truck, and his brother helped me - was some brute-force labor on that job. Was glad I had help. Can't remember how I got those massive ball joints out, but I remember it being a fight all the way. I'll probably pass on the next one! Rust central ...
10:43 My 2004 6.0 F350 Takes forever for the vacuum to drop off of the front hubs. We have been doing the manual turnout method you described by disconn solenoid and turn hubs manually. X-fer still OK. Hey Eric! Rather have you work on my truck, You don't need practice. You got this!
Thank you for this insight. We have this same truck, but a 99 with 420,000 miles on it and you led me to the broken vacuum line at the hubs, fixed and they work like they should. Five minute fix. Awesome!
Just to let you know them tools are now under 80 dollars with handle. Good catch on checking otherside as when I was watching I wondered if you were going to check it. Good video
As when all is a new idea, every part cost a bundle. Now the entire seal kit can be found on Amazon for a little more than a song. The inner hub seal was amazingly costly back then, and is now in the kit of O-rings. The tool for the specific years, are a must have.
Excellent work on that tube smoke boogie! And please, ignore the whiners that think you halfassed it. I am grateful for your humor, explanation and unbiased commenting. Wow...never realized how beefy that F250 is and yet...vacuum lines look delicate and cheap seal keep SMA in work 😀
Eric is by far the best mechanic on you tube
It's a good idea to make sure both hubs actually disengage. Spinning the rear wheels only proves that the transfer case is disengaged. My truck had a habit of disengaging one of the hubs, but not the other.
This guy is a real mechanic and not a parts changer. This is who i would have work on my truck. Im a mechanic but i work 12-18 hour shifts so sometimes i need to pay someone to work on my truck.
Eric , thank you for allowing me to watch you perform your gift , Sir !! Be safe and God bless you and your family!!!!
I've done those a few times and installing that seal without the tool isn't fun and even with it you need to just take your time hats off too you Eric you make my days so much more interesting and look forward to what's in store for me everyday. Keep wrenching my friend
I have watched plenty of videos on the wheel hub and bearing assemblies. Your video is so in depth and explained so well in detail, I can just about picture and understand all the working parts of the assemblies by memory alone now. Great video. thank you
Great work man. I have learned allot of things from you. You are right, they are designed to fail. They could use a bearing that has the same thickness instead of that seal. Damn that is one bad design.
Good stuff Eric. I attempted to help my nephew troubleshoot the vacuum hubs on his Ford truck over the phone a couple of years ago. Now I see why it was such an epic fail! Thanks for showing us how it's done!
Some are even a little different from year to year so be careful
I love the fact you include your thought process. Even if it included a near mistake. It came out well so no harm no foul.
Yep could have edited that out haha
@@SouthMainAuto Theres 2 people that have never made a mistake. God and liars.
Man I want to say thanks. You answered all my questions in one video that I couldn't find in 4 other videos. Very detailed and all the proper zooms in needed. Thanks man
Love the humility, all tech's at one time or another have the brain fart!
you can make that same hub seal driver with a pipe flange and pipe. I just made one a few months back on an Excursion. Cost was $25.
you need to grind the flange to fit the hub bore and really take care to not over drive it in or under drive it in. I managed in a driveway and may have shot a video of it.
Very easy to make from 1, 1/2 pipe nipple 10" long, cap, flange turned on a lathe a bit smaller than the seal .
Excellent videos on the F250, all the way from start to finish on ball joints, axle seal replacement and tie rod ends. Appreciate the detailed info on tools required for the job! Nothing worse than getting into a repair and not having what you need. Did need to cut a couple pieces of three inch pipe for the ball joint install, tool from HF didn't come with all the sizes but still worth $100
Good job showing where all the lines are. My auto lock didn't work. Found one side disconnected on mine after noticing that the vent air was switching from dash to defrost on its own when turning on 4WD. Fixed it just in time for snow to fly. Thank you for the help.
Hey buddy don't beat yourself up for not checking the other side. The video was well done, and better, you are no different than the rest of us. We all make simple mistakes. But I like the fact your humble enough to admit your error and keep it in the video. I would feel confident have you service my 2013 F350. With only 30,000 miles on it. Love the video. Very informative and very well explained. Good job my friend. Barry
The video may be OLD but new to me. I have a 150 with some chatter on the driver's side. When the weather breaks(Illinois winters) I will climb under it to sort all of this out. It's a 2002 model with the 4x4 on-the-fly shift. Maybe with the truck being 20-plus years young, I will just replace all of the hoses just to do some preventive drama. Not sure if you go back to look at the comments but thanks for the fine show that has always been done. Have a great day/week.
I've been watching your videos for a long time now and I never realized you are so close! We're right in Bloomfield. I'm definitely going to keep you in mind.
Holy shit! What a perfect explanation of a system I sit on every day; had no clue about and my bills rely on my truck. Thank-you and please keep going!!!!
Glad to see you admit to your mistake, instead of trying to hide it. Also, that is an incredibly, insanely ridiculous sealing setup. What was Ford even thinking?
The saw money to be made on special tools and service... engineered to fail to rake in more $$$
Eric, I have driven in the rear hub seal using the larger cones from a tire balancer machine. The size and shape are close to the special seal driver kit you have.
However, getting the depth correct is tricky and requires attention to detail! Just need to take note of the depth prior to removal of the axel during disassembly.
Great video (as always), I guess it may or may not pay to get the kit depending on how many of these older style trucks a guy really works on. For where I am in MN we don't see many of these around anymore, but I just thought I'd throw it out there for those who are in the field working in a retail shop without the expensive kit available.
That's cool that you loan out those tools to other shops, I'd be worried I'd never see them again haha
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Eric, that was an awesome video. I have a 2005 Ford F350 Super Duty that won't shift into 4WD, thanks for the tips and troubleshooting. I feel that when you beat yourself up for not checking the vacuum on the drivers side that when you pinched the vacuum hose on the driver side and the passenger side vacuum didn't change, I feel that was a good test.
Eric, We need more Ms. O please!!! She brings a feminine touch to SMA baby!!! 1, 2, BBQ!! Love the videos, thank you for the education!! Rock on brother!
I am glad I found this video because I am looking to buy a F250 or 350 and now I know how the 4wd system works.
Head slap
Eric after watching all of your videos I purchased a Toyota Tundra because I have never seen you repair one lol. I was wondering if you would do a video on changing the transmission fluid in your Tundra so we can see how to get fluid level correct without a transmission dipstick. Thank you for all the effort that you put into your videos they are the best ones on You Tube.
lol I was hoping you'd catch that. I was thinking ummm you had both sides isolated, how do you know it's the driver. Glad you caught that before getting farther into it.
1973 Pinzgauer I worked on had hydraulically actuated locking differentials and 2/4/6 wheel drive. It was original and still worked flawlessly. No vacuum, no getting out to turn hubs, just pull a lever.
I think that particular Pinzgauer is on the set of "Stranger Things" for Netflix right now.
Mark's F350 needed ball joints and we had to replace those seals. We had them replaced at a truck repair shop. Another problem with the vacuum system was the steel lines filling with rust. Drilled them open so vacuum could get to the hubs.
What?..... Vacuum Hub = Chocolate Fireplace Screen. Great fix Eric!
Haha yes... just about as handy :)
I've never owned a 4 wheel drive and don't plan to. But, I was intrigued to see the inner workings. Thanks Eric.
Eric, your'e amazing! Thanks for the videos. Just wanted you to know how much we appreciate what you do.
Thank you, now I know why my F250 auto hub locks probably don't work.
One of the best videos i have ever seen, no wonder you are super busy, you are good.
Imagine some Ford engineer probably got a bonus and a vacation for that design!
Yes but that was in 1982! LOL still using the same design.
@@curtisroberts9137 except..... the ford trucks in 82 used manual locking hubs (aka, get out and turn a "knob" on the hub)
and GM used auto FULLY MECHANICAL hubs....
this shit was designed in the LATE 90s!!!!!!!!
i think the dude who designed this thought it was 1896...... and not 1996.....
@@kainhall now that's funny
@@curtisroberts9137 So the 2020 F250 trucks are still using this bad design?
@@311hitwall I don't know for sure about the 2020s. I'm pretty sure the newest one I've seen was a 2016 or 17. It was a fleet vehicle so I don't know if they're any different than the when's it the average guy buys
Learned the hard way. 2015 ish front vacuum hubs , small leak, PARTIALLY engaged sounded like a bad wheel bearing. I love customer diags lol
if the other side was leaking it would not held the vacuum so you did not need to test the otherside however for my own vehicle if I'm doing the seals on one side I would rather just do both sides and know that it will not fail a month down the road on the otherside. great video and you definitely are a real mechanic and not a parts changer. Good job!
You could say the new style inner tube seal 27:45 was plastic or deformable or maliable or pliable. So yeah Professor O. it is certainly the right word.
thanks for showing me the tool. i just made one from a trailer jack top. worked minty* used the thrust washers as a gauge to seat the seal to the right depth
Eric it is truly beautiful where you live. My wife's family is from New Hampshire and I have visited up there once. Can't wait to be back up in New England...:-)
Everybody, give Eric likes on his vids please! 👍
Great video as usual. I don't know what I'd do without my smoke machine...makes diagnosis so much easier. Part of the reason labor prices are high is to pay for all the tools required for diagnose & repairs. Can't wait for my Pico to arrive and thanks again!!
I hear that! $1,600 for my Autel, a grand for the smoker, now need a J-box, laptop, and the Pico. Oh ... and a concrete pad and a lift! Going to be a lean year for me here, lol.
You don't need all of it b/c you can do a lot with a test light, loaded circuit, DVOM, Brakleen or propane and a water bottle but to be efficient and be able to isolate dropouts, glitches, or smoke a hub, intake, EVAP, etc then the better diagnostic equipment like smoke machines, lab scopes, etc come into play. I have a Verus Edge and it can do just about anything but the Pico is heads & tails above the capability of the Verus so fixing the difficult problems just got a little easier. Sounds like you are tooling up...you know I have a saying that you can never have too many tools as long as you use them. The fun part is using them!
Seems like overnight that one day I was using a timing light, changing carb jets, plugs, wires, caps and rotors ... and the next thing I know, cars with "check engine" lights were everywhere. I resisted as long as I could (20 years lol). I focused my attention on motorcycles, and OPE, but now the time has come.
After seeing Eric, Paul, Ivan, the "other" Eric, and several others on RUclips, I finally had a place to get the knowledge I was thirsting for. I had been fumbling with '96+ vehicles for all that time, never really grasping how these things could be troubleshot with 99% certainty - I didn't think it was possible! Used to frustrate the hell out of me. Seemed like everything was a big secret - just couldn't get the right information anywhere I looked. Spent hours on the net with nearly every job. I have been getting by without these tools for a long time, but I've come across many cases where I found myself wishing I had the smoke machine, & scope (the lift is a daily wish, as my back and arms remind me with throbbing pain, lol). - heck, I just got the Autel this past summer - prior to that, I had no bi-directional capability. Got lucky many times just going on instinct, and help from Google. Would much rather have the ability to do it 100% right, do it quick, and do it once. The RUclips guys have got me motivated. :)
Neighbor's car has positive fuel trims - I know it has a vacuum leak ... somewhere. Suspected the intake gaskets, as I had just done that job on nearly the same vehicle days prior. Tried water, visual inspection, and even cigar smoke (neighbor nearly passed out puffing away!) - still can't find it. Was wishing I had the smoke machine that day ...
Made the decision to go all-in, because I'm seeing that this computer stuff ain't going away ... it's only becoming more complicated every single year! Pays better than working on OPE too. :)
Yep understand!. If you really want to learn at an extremely cheap price the subscribe to Paul's Scanner Danner Premium Channel and buy his book. You're watching the right channels & learning from great mech/techs. Wells Tech has some great videos also & he just got a Pico and is going to start using it for diagnostics and he is also teaching videos on fuel trims right now. I took high school Auto Mechanics in the AM in High School & went to BOCES all afternoon in my senior & junior days so High School was pretty sweet back then. I started working in a dealership in 1974 and the rest is history. The points/condenser days were boring to me, even the electronic & HEI days but today's cars are fun to diagnose & rewarding to fix although sometimes you want to blow them up. Hope this helps a little.
Thanks man! I appreciate the info!
I actually just ordered Paul's book this afternoon. :) Been wanting to sub his Premium channel for a while now, but between the tooling and Christmas, the ol' bank account is approaching the danger zone, lol. It's definitely on the short list.
I find myself wanting to blow these newer ones up more often than not, LOL! I make sure to throw the Craftsman tools, and not the Snap-On ones ... :D
One of the best damn videos for this that I've seen.
being a youtuber myself I can greatly appreciate the time you took to make this vid despite having a very busy shop...so, thank you!! And the smoke machine was new to me...got one on order now!
Nice video Eric , love watching them as shop owner , a tech , fellow RUclipsr, AND A subscriber
If you have the smoke machine, why waste all that time in the beginning? Why not just shoot smoke into each hub first thing to check them both to be certain, then shoot smoke down from the reservoir to check all the lines?
According to the Ford service manual, if you turn the Mode Switch Select on the dashboard to 4x4 high, the system will enter an approx 51 second cycle to apply a higher (> 9" Hg approx) vacuum to engage 4x4 mode, then vent the vacuum. If you turn it back to 2WD during this cycle, it will have no effect until the first cycle completes. At that time, a lower vacuum (approx 6" or 7" Hg) is applied to take the system out of 4x4. The 2WD cycle time is approx 15 seconds, but can be overridden by switching back to 4WD.
5,780,000 VIEWS.......congratulations Eric O. You are one of the Best.
your thinking of Kilmer
You can make a seal installation tool with an 8" piece of galvanized pipe, a pipe cap, & a 4"? flange. You will have to grind the diameter of the flange down to fit the seal properly, & the 1.5" pipe will slide over the axle shaft. The cap gives you a nice place to hit & keep the blows centered. All of the parts can be purchased at Lowes/Home Depot for like $25. I did mine this way & it worked perfectly. The special tool does prevent overdriving the seal where the flange/pipe/cap tool does not, but it still works just fine.
You can get them on amazon for $50 now.
@@najay0 You can sell heroin to kids too, but you'd have to be a garbage human to do it. Same goes for buying anything from amazon.
Thanks mate.....I don't have that exposure much in Singapore.
Great tutorial. The bad news: my auto locking hubs haven’t been working for years. The good news: apparently I’m a better 2wd off-roader than I thought I was
Great channel and videos Eric, you put all of these other so called mechanics to shame 👍🏻
We really enjoy your videos. Don't stop making them, please. I wouldn't worry about forgetting to complete the diagnosis. I'd worry about forgetting your name. That comes later.
Lost driver side at 60,000 miles of baby highway miles (2016 model). Easy diagnosis and fix, but why at 60,000 miles. Tx for another great video.
ford mechanic told me to spray some PB blaster garage door lube into the IWE few times a year..where the vac lines connect..does a good job keeping everything lubed ...the seals dry up crack and then you have leaks.
working shlub I've heard of adding lube too, after seeing this I'd be inclined to add a couple ounces of thick gear oil, at least enough to reach the seal area and keep it lubed / wash away grit.
*NON-PETROLEUM (HYDROCARBON) LUBE A.K.A. TEFLON/PTFE IS SAFER, WON'T CORRODE RUBBER AND PLASTIC* www.amazon.com/DuPont-Silicone-Lubricant-Teflon-Polymer/dp/B000RGZHFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484080474&sr=8-2&keywords=liquid+teflon+lube
Underrated joke
Replaced a LOT of the hub seals when I worked for ford. Use to pull the lock ring and snatch the hub off coat it in vaseline then recheck vaccum. About 85% of the time it was just the Oring had failed
I really enjoy watching your videos... You show things that can happen, we all forget steps sometimes! You get vehicles that other shops can't figure out and you go the extra mile to get it figured out! My hat is off to you!!!👍 Another note... I've only seen one video of your New kitchen at your shop... Does Mrs O still make you those Healthy Meals? Lol... You are a Great Insperation to the auto repair industry... Thanks for Watching!!!
RAM played around with vacuum hubs in the 90s. When they worked they were great.
awesome once again Dr.O! Keep 'em coming.
Damn, and I've been hating my dodge 2500 vac 4wd system...
Sure appreciate your videos-- better than Netflix!
Jay Kay it’s simple and works quite well generally. At least has a lockable option. Saves the front axles from always rotating causing wear and tear on everything else
I've been manually locking my hubs in my Excursion since replacing my ball joints. Didn't wanna spend the money on new seals and the tool. I like having manual lockouts on trucks, only fail if they're worn out.
You my friend are an awesome mechanic. It’s too bad that today most mechanics are just parts changers.
You are supposed to inject a 1/4 once of synthetic 80-90 oil into the vacuum port on the hubs every couple of years
Lol these don't last a couple month in our climate
Good use of your smoke machine, here in Ontario they canceled the emissions testing program so I imagine there is a few smoke machines collecting dust if the guys aren’t creative enough to use the machine for things other then intended original purpose .
Love all your videos, very informative and your unique onhands teaching, speaking of hands you need to start seeing y rhuemetologist, your fingers look arthritic. I've suffered for years with arthritis. It ended my 40yr career as an Auto Body Tech. Keep up the great work. Hello to Mrs O
We did one of these and I had to make a homemade tool out of a piece of 3 in exhaust pipe man to that job was a mother
I didn't see you use any brake cleaner...no job is done right without it.
These Vacuum Systems Are A Pain they are failure prone vacumm actuator or The Hub seals or vacuum lines Good Video as Always Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
Never second-guess the guy actually doing the work. Also, it's your shop. The mistakes will find you one way or the other without the peanut gallery's hounding.
But, you did mention the issue when returning to check the vacuum draw on the right side... "As long as any possible leak is smaller than the vacuum draw, a simple gauge test won't definitively indicate one."
Rather than smoking just at the left hub, it would have been a good idea to back-check the lines and other hub from that location too.
Keep up the good work! As a DIY'er whose cars, trucks, power equipment, and sports vehicles have *never* seen the inside of a retail shop, I've learned a ton concerning emissions systems and diagnosis from your RUclips endeavors. I much appreciate your willingness to take the time and effort to share your knowledge!
would a brake bleeder vacuum tool work for this? in other words hook up the brake bleeder vacuum and use it in lieu of the gauge you used.
New to your channel and I got to say your a guy who loves what he does,
Thanks! That's what's wrong with my 08F350. You make it look soooo easy!
You are a phenomenal mechanic, and I'm I'm not trying to beat you up, but I believe the seal installation tool would be better served by using a large dead blow hammer instead of the ball peen hammer. It will make it last longer, just a thought.
At least you corrected your mistake. Can't trust many people to do the right thing.
I found that seal driver on amazon for $70. they have 2 part numbers one for 1998-05 and 05-current
Great vid. 4WD is a very unknown world for me and watching this was very very interesting. I've never driven in 4WD,
Whew! Was waiting for the moment when you were going to check the other hub too xD
It was a close call
Excellent job in narrating. I think my problem is the inner seal. Thank you very much.
mechanics love Fords all the way to the bank.
at least i dont own a japanese chev duramax,with spare r/h cv joints in the back..