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Does the exhaust cam gear need to be unlocked too?

How can you tell if it’s unlocked???

excellent video! Helped me A LOT!

Great video. Thanks.

Thanks for the video man very helpful nice work 👍 replacing mine on 08 corolla

What’s the part number for the bearings ?

Thanks Man

I didnt remove my cam, I just put the new gear on and stuck the bolt in the end hand tight. Blew air down the oil port of the number 1 bearing cap and it unlocked and rotated on its own. I then torqued the bolt and relocked it.

I'll be tackling this project myself thanks to your video...much appreciated

Top video, easy to understand. Many thanks!!

Shouldn't use grease use only gear oil

Do you have to unlock the pin before loosening the bolt or does it matter if you're replacing the gear assembly anyways.

What axle is on this truck?

Thanks for the video

Very good

if you really want to just unlock the shaft i think you just have to remove the screw of the vvt and removing the cap ,the shaft will move freely ,the pin lock hole is on the cover

Great video Josh!! Well done! Doing mine today!

Just what I needed. Thanks!

Same problem with the seal here..

My truck is original. Bought it new. Never been repaired. Doing mine now. Does not have an oil slinger. 2000 model. Hmmmm

Would anyone have the part number for both bearings?

Fuck, this is going to be a bigger pain in the ass than I expected.

I wonder if that race would just drop in if you freeze it first?

Is there not a C-clip in the differential to take out first?

Nice job! Could you provide the part numbers for the inner seal and the race and bearings. It seems that there is only one seal on the inside none on the out, Correct?

I didn’t see you add the second wheel bearing on the front. Hmm

Great video and explanation for bearing/hub seal replacement on the Sterling 10.50 axle. Couple of added points, Just use gear oil on the bearings and before you install the hub add gear oil to the recess(About 1 ounce) and roll it through the rear bearing. The 8 drive plate bolts get torqued to 80 foot pounds with the wheels on and the full weight of the vehicle on them. They also use blue loctite thread locker on the threads. Last, jack the opposite side of the axle which was worked on, around 6 inches and allow the axle fluid to run down inside the tube and refill the hub. Refill the differential as needed. Again great video and explanation of the process. So many others leave the oil slinger out but it is a necessary part.

Nice job thanks for the great video good info on all points.

Hello greetings. when you are going to install the intake camshaft and you are going to install the vvt gear chain. In which position is the correct one to install? locked or released?

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!! Awesome.!!👍👍

Just what I needed to know. Had to know if there was gasket between the two because thats what is leaking and throwing off my downstream O2 sensor causing the engine light etc.. to come on. My leaks are only at the joints so I might get by just doing new gaskets thus putting off the Y pipe expense later. The flex part is not leaking yet, so thats good to go. You did a good job showing us what all is involved, Thanks.

If you have a welder, you can lay a big nasty bead in 3 or 4 spots around the inner race, let it cool, and it should about fall out. Then grind the outer surface down til it just slips in the hub. Now you have a race driving tool. If you have a somewhat-steep slope nearby, shoot a touch of your gear lube of choice on the rollers, top off the diff, and park it on the slope with the new bearings downhill for 15 minutes once assembled, the hub will fill right up. If you did both, pull it level and repeat for the other side. Once up to about 45-50, the diff should push oil out the tubes to the hub, so however you do it, be sure to check the diff lube a couple times after it's got a few miles on it.

About the most useful video about the subject out in RUclips land. Others were kind of not clear on when to lock or unlock or torque. Thanks

To much UH UH UH UH'S AND UM UM UM UM',S !!!

Is it common for Corolla to not start after installing without unlocking it ? If so is the gear damaged ?

# 788,.. dont use greese..wash with diff oil, check diff level..

Thanks Josh. I have a 99 superduty f250 . I have a vibration at 60 and rear tires are choppy and fronts are good . I am assuming the bearings are done or are loose. I have 100,000 miles on a rebuild and i haul heavy stuff here and there. So I am just gonna order bearings and follow your video. Good instructions ..

Awesome job buddy! Thanks for walking me through that b4 I actually take it apart

It would have helped if you had shown the gear marks when locked and where they are when unlock. The important part is to install it on the cam only when it is UNLOCK and tightens to 40-foot pounds. Then lock it and install it back on the engine. I know as I made the error...

That hub turning while setting the torque was an excellent tip which I'll be using in the future definitely. Makes perfect sense!

When you were removing the seal, you had to pry off the inner seal connection. I noticed that you didn't press the inner connection on the spindle. The seal will leak if this isn't pressed on. I know because it happened to me. The seal is made in two parts that rotate and seal on the inner part of the seal.

Thank you. doesn't sound that easy to me. It becomes difficult when talk about that pin ward...depise all that fact still sounds interesting to me. I consider an advance mecanics.

Why does it need to be unlocked?

Can a camshaft that is installed with out being unlocked couse my toyota corolla to idle poorly and not rev up

thanks Josh I'm doing this tomorrow!!!

Wow I didn't know that part existed the locking and Unlocking mechanism of the cvvt Sounds Challenging thanks for sharing!!!

Another comment if I may. NEVER use your torque wrench to turn nuts and bolts down. Use a standard tool to take the fastener to down to snug and proceed from there. Too much wear on the torque wrench and over time it will lose it's accuracy.

I'm late joining the conversation but I'd like to make the point to never drive or punch any machined parts such as bearing races, and the like, with steel tools. Always use a softer metal. Brass is the go to. In the event you slip and strike any machined surface it won't be damaged. Here in the shop we have an assortment of brass punches, drift pins, etc. in various sizes. I find it odd after watching so many videos like this (excellent, by the way) I have yet to see anyone using these tools. One of the first things I was taught when I started in the shop.

I only subscribe becos u explain evey well thank u very great info