Just what I needed to know. Had to know if there was gasket between the two because thats what is leaking and throwing off my downstream O2 sensor causing the engine light etc.. to come on. My leaks are only at the joints so I might get by just doing new gaskets thus putting off the Y pipe expense later. The flex part is not leaking yet, so thats good to go. You did a good job showing us what all is involved, Thanks.
I just received the same Walker 53624 flex pipe from Amazon today and note that rear end of pipe is cut squarely at 90 degrees but the rear flange is welded obliquely so that the pipe (lip) protrudes beyond the flange by 0.328" on one side and 0.183" on the other. The Walker 31332 gasket is 0.200" thick, so the pipe lip still protrudes beyond the added gasket by 0.128” and will not seal properly if Y-pipe flange cannot accept the excess length of the lip. In your video, we see you slipping the rear gasket into place "over the lip" of the flex pipe rear flange. Was the amount of lip protruding beyond the rear flange less than the thickness of the gasket, or did the mating flange on the Y-pipe have an inside diameter large enough for an excessive flex-pipe lip to telescope into it? Thanks. P.S. If it turns out that the rear flange is welded on at the correct (non 90 degree) angle but Walker forgot to trim off the excess lip, then I may have to grind the lip down myself to avoid a return to Amazon.
I don't remember the shoulder that holds the gasket being uneven. My concern would be that the flange may not have been welded on at the proper angle. I don't know if that small of a difference would really cause any mounting problems. I don't see how grinding off the excess would be a problem. Just hope the flange is attached at the correct angle. I would try to "dry fit" it first without the gaskets to make sure everything lines up and that your rear pipe can accommodate the extra material. Best of luck!
@@AboundHomestead Thanks for taking the time to reply. I don't have an impact wrench to take apart the exhaust components, so I will eventually have to find a handy person with such tools. What I can do now is crawl under the mini-van and using a device to measure angles, I can determine if the rear flange on the old pipe is at a similar angle as the rear flange on the new pipe. The worst case scenario is when the Y-pipe’s front flange and the cat’s rear flange each have their own lips and therefore each of the two gaskets of the flex pipe have to accommodate two lips whose combined length must be less than the 0.200" thickness of the gaskets so that there will be no exhaust leaks at the joints.
I'm 99% sure the only lip at that joint is on the flex pipe and the y-pipe has a recessed "female" end. You could cut the bolts if you have the ability to. Odds are, they need to be replaced anyway.
@@AboundHomestead If the y-pipe does indeed have a "female" end, then its recess might accept all of the 0.128" excess lip protruding past the gasket on the rear flange of the flex pipe. In your video, the flange on the cat had studs and the flange on the y-pipe had no studs, but simply holes for replacement bolts. I want to avoid breaking off the studs by using the wrong wrench since drilling a new replacement 0.5" diameter hole in a steel flange may not be easy.
If you put it up on ramps and get underneath of it while it's running, you should be able to hear the general area where the exhaust leak is coming from. Put your hand near all the joints being careful not to touch the hot exhaust pipe and if it's a bad leak, you will feel the exhaust pressure on your hand pretty noticeably. Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your fix!
@@AboundHomestead thanks. I'm gonna get under this weekend. My brother spotted an issue with I believe flex pipe said will have to replace one day maybe day has came. It has kinda like a race car sound almost. Hard to explain. But thanks. I hear it in wheel well driver side front wheel but ill het under. Only real way to see. But thanks for replying stay safe
Im wondering too....I have a check engine light for bank 1 sensor 2 and if that is that sensor maybe my sensor is good and it's giving a code since pipe broke and info can't send since not getting correct heat etc...
@@AboundHomestead No, thank you. You definitely have the best (if not the only) video for fixing this problem. Gave me a lot of confidence. However, when i got to the back section of the pipe, the nuts and pipe were pretty much rust-welded together and I coulndn't get a bite on either side of the bolt/nut. Its torch time and thats not something I want to bother with laying on the ground in my driveway halfway under a minivan at 95 degrees out. Win some lose some.
These Van's are junk! Yes they get high mileage but the underneath exhaust system is cheaply made and rots out quickly and is very expensive to replace. Mine is loud as hell and that's how itll stay till it finally hits the bucket. Tried patching it and just keeps falling apart! And 3 catalytic converters! No thank you! Bad enough my old Explorer 2dr has 1 to deal with.
Just what I needed to know. Had to know if there was gasket between the two because thats what is leaking and throwing off my downstream O2 sensor causing the engine light etc.. to come on. My leaks are only at the joints so I might get by just doing new gaskets thus putting off the Y pipe expense later. The flex part is not leaking yet, so thats good to go. You did a good job showing us what all is involved, Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback!
I'm glad to know you found the video helpful!
Well done bro!
Nice video, thanks!
I just received the same Walker 53624 flex pipe from Amazon today and note that rear end of pipe is cut squarely at 90 degrees but the rear flange is welded obliquely so that the pipe (lip) protrudes beyond the flange by 0.328" on one side and 0.183" on the other. The Walker 31332 gasket is 0.200" thick, so the pipe lip still protrudes beyond the added gasket by 0.128” and will not seal properly if Y-pipe flange cannot accept the excess length of the lip. In your video, we see you slipping the rear gasket into place "over the lip" of the flex pipe rear flange. Was the amount of lip protruding beyond the rear flange less than the thickness of the gasket, or did the mating flange on the Y-pipe have an inside diameter large enough for an excessive flex-pipe lip to telescope into it? Thanks.
P.S. If it turns out that the rear flange is welded on at the correct (non 90 degree) angle but Walker forgot to trim off the excess lip, then I may have to grind the lip down myself to avoid a return to Amazon.
I don't remember the shoulder that holds the gasket being uneven.
My concern would be that the flange may not have been welded on at the proper angle.
I don't know if that small of a difference would really cause any mounting problems.
I don't see how grinding off the excess would be a problem. Just hope the flange is attached at the correct angle.
I would try to "dry fit" it first without the gaskets to make sure everything lines up and that your rear pipe can accommodate the extra material.
Best of luck!
@@AboundHomestead Thanks for taking the time to reply. I don't have an impact wrench to take apart the exhaust components, so I will eventually have to find a handy person with such tools. What I can do now is crawl under the mini-van and using a device to measure angles, I can determine if the rear flange on the old pipe is at a similar angle as the rear flange on the new pipe. The worst case scenario is when the Y-pipe’s front flange and the cat’s rear flange each have their own lips and therefore each of the two gaskets of the flex pipe have to accommodate two lips whose combined length must be less than the 0.200" thickness of the gaskets so that there will be no exhaust leaks at the joints.
I'm 99% sure the only lip at that joint is on the flex pipe and the y-pipe has a recessed "female" end.
You could cut the bolts if you have the ability to. Odds are, they need to be replaced anyway.
@@AboundHomestead If the y-pipe does indeed have a "female" end, then its recess might accept all of the 0.128" excess lip protruding past the gasket on the rear flange of the flex pipe. In your video, the flange on the cat had studs and the flange on the y-pipe had no studs, but simply holes for replacement bolts. I want to avoid breaking off the studs by using the wrong wrench since drilling a new replacement 0.5" diameter hole in a steel flange may not be easy.
The studs are replaceable.
They just press out or you can hammer them out and new ones press/draw themselves in as you tighten the nut.
Wish you had gotten sound as well. I'm curious to know if this is the sound I have and if this is the fix good vid stay safe
If you put it up on ramps and get underneath of it while it's running, you should be able to hear the general area where the exhaust leak is coming from. Put your hand near all the joints being careful not to touch the hot exhaust pipe and if it's a bad leak, you will feel the exhaust pressure on your hand pretty noticeably. Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your fix!
@@AboundHomestead thanks. I'm gonna get under this weekend. My brother spotted an issue with I believe flex pipe said will have to replace one day maybe day has came. It has kinda like a race car sound almost. Hard to explain. But thanks. I hear it in wheel well driver side front wheel but ill het under. Only real way to see. But thanks for replying stay safe
ya man my 09 sienna is real loud after i ran over a good pudle of water during the rain. it got loud instantly. im hoping this is the fix
Thanks for the video. I’m not sure which part of my pipe is leaking which sounds like a Honda with farter cans while driving.
Hello is that sensor bank one sensor two?
Im wondering too....I have a check engine light for bank 1 sensor 2 and if that is that sensor maybe my sensor is good and it's giving a code since pipe broke and info can't send since not getting correct heat etc...
Hi we're you buy your pipe from I think my car need one of those
O'Reilly auto parts
@@AboundHomestead thank you so much
Part: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1398731&cc=1431010&jsn=850
Helpful link!
Thanks
@@AboundHomestead No, thank you. You definitely have the best (if not the only) video for fixing this problem. Gave me a lot of confidence. However, when i got to the back section of the pipe, the nuts and pipe were pretty much rust-welded together and I coulndn't get a bite on either side of the bolt/nut. Its torch time and thats not something I want to bother with laying on the ground in my driveway halfway under a minivan at 95 degrees out. Win some lose some.
wer did u buy the pipe
O'Reilly auto parts
@@AboundHomestead thanks
These Van's are junk! Yes they get high mileage but the underneath exhaust system is cheaply made and rots out quickly and is very expensive to replace. Mine is loud as hell and that's how itll stay till it finally hits the bucket. Tried patching it and just keeps falling apart! And 3 catalytic converters! No thank you! Bad enough my old Explorer 2dr has 1 to deal with.