Ford Rear Axle Seal Leak Repair
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- I only recommend Ford Seals Here-(check fitment guide)
www.amazon.com/...
The only fluid the differential should be refilled with-(3-4qts required)
www.amazon.com/...
Friction modifier-(1 bottle per needed)
www.amazon.com/...
This is the differential sealant I recommend-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the best Brake Cleaner to get all the residue off-
www.amazon.com/...
In this video I show how to replace an axle seal on a 2012 Ford F150 but the procedure is almost exactly the same on any Ford rear end since the 80's.
great video..just changed my rear brakes and saw that my left rear seal is leaking..another weekend of fun ahead..glad I found your vids , you make my life easier..thanks
Thank you for your video, I just fixed this issue on my 2007 F150, this is about the most “difficult” thing I’ve done myself on my vehicle, but with your help I was able to get it done. Thanks again and God Bless you!
Also guys. Check/blow out your axle vent line as well. I had both seals leaking and read on the forums I believe to check for blockage in the vent, which will let pressure build in the diff and tubes and blow out the seals. Mine was plugged
luvthesnow I had the same thing . Tell everyone to check vent tube.
How do u blow out the vent I don't have a compressor
I watched several videos before attempting this repair yesterday and I wish I'd seen this one, this is the clearest and easiest to follow instruction out of all the ones I'd seen and I may have been able to avoid the mechanic had I had his calming narration to guide me through the task. Granted I was in an AutoZone parking lot and not in an ideal neighborhood so the mechanic was a welcome alternative by that point but watching this video kinda makes me want to try the job on a scrap vehicle just to get familiar with the differential setup.
Just did my rear diff today on my 2001 S-crew. I had a worn bearing and leaking right rear seal that cut into my right axle shaft. Thank you for the step by step vids. Very informative as always. Thanks again for helping us out!!!👍🏼
Best rear diff/seals vid i have seen. Appreciate the attention to detail, not some 3 minute hack vid. How can someone seriously think a 3 minute video can explain a repair like this?? Keep up the good work, i know how making videos is a lot of work. Much appreciated
You're still the best after all of these years Tech.
That's a hell of a video! Thank you very much. My brother just bought his friend's 2012 F150 and drove to show me when I noticed a bunch of diff oil running down the wheel and tire flowing into the street. He hadn't even noticed it... We will be using your video as a guide. Keep up the great work!
Jgizzy -redacted- Sweet it should help allot.
Great vid as always did on my dads F150 few years back ,there is only one thing I would suggest is to check axle vent hose and fitting they get clogged with dirt at times or pinched wich tends to blow seals out ,but great instruction vid.
+TIM WEAVER Ive seen plenty of those too on construction trucks.
@@FordTechMakuloco
What if you are changing the rear diff fluid at home and don't have compressed air to clean out bolt holes on rear diff, can a vacuum be used instead?
Thanks! Super helpful! Just got a 95 Mazda B2300 with leaking axle seal and I have never done bearings or seals or anything with the differential before. This was well shot and well explained! It all went just as you demonstrated. Feeling good! Thank you!
great Video the only thing i would add is that the first thing to look for when you get an axle leak is a plugged breather tube ( rubber hose near the middle of the axle where the brake lines split off from) often the hose is missing. the breather gets plugger the diff heats up causing pressure which forces oil out of the seals. also as the oil is the most expensive part of this repair i always replace all of the seals since i have it apart anyhow again great video!
Sele I
I just finished this service. I blew the vent clear by reaching in to the vent tube through the left rear wheel well, cut the rubber tubing blew the vent both ways with around 120 lbs of air. There was definitely some crap in the upper tube. I simply spliced it with a 1/4 inch brass hose barb and two mini clamps. Replacing the seals was pretty easy, but being that I will hit 78 in two months, I really wished I had a two post lift. I had to go to NAPA for the right seals after Amazon sent me the wrong ones. I used Valvoline full synthetic in the squeeze bags. It took three 1 qt. Bags. The guy/gal that came up with that idea was a true genius. I also used the felpro gasket. I don't like using sealant on this type of repair. I just got rid of the emergency brakes, as I never use them on this truck, and my backing plate rusted through where the pins go through it to hold the spring clips in place. The bolts are 5/16-18 in case you want to replace a couple of the top bolts with studs to hang the cover on. I pre stuck the gasket to the cover with spray adhesive after cleaning, priming and painting the outside.
About to change bearings and seal on my 09 F-150. You where the only person I could think of right off the bat that I knew would be using Motorcraft parts lol. Had to make sure my seal I got looks the same. Thanks!
Man, where were you 2 years ago when I had to replace my axle shaft on my 1998 Lincoln Town Car? Good stuff, as usual.
I m Edward from Brazil. As a ford lover, I couldnt miss to subscribe your channel.
Here in Brazil we dont have much V8´s and automatic transmission, but we may get some in our repair shop once in while, so I m here watching the videos to learn more how to work on them. So, thanks for your videos.
Hi Brian. Thanks for this video. I see it is quite old. I just changed the rear brakes on my 2004 at 165,000 miles and noticed that the right seal needs to be replaced. One thing that i cannot understand is why Ford decided to commit suicide with the new style trucks. I also own a 1994 F150, and it has been absolutely bullet proof. The rear axle seals are still good, it has normal spark plugs, it did not need a complete timing job, fuel pum modulator or anything else. It needed a water pump at around 80k, and an alternator last year.
As a '09 F150 owner I am glad I came across your video. Very well explained and thorough!! I still have a few miles to go before I have to change out my bearings or diff fluid but I certainly subscribed and will refer to your videos in the future.
Thanks again
Peter
Ontario, CAN
I had to do axle seals and bearings on my 2002. Easy work thanks to your video. Thank you so much!!
The best vid I found in RUclips, I checked other ones but yours makes it easier and less complicated. Thank you.
Great pointers and explained well. Thanks for the confidence boost. Im off to get 75w 140 , Friction booster an some sealer.
Brian, I've watched so many of your videos and have learned so much from you. I want to say thanks for making such great videos!
+Joe Correia That's good! Glad to help!
@@FordTechMakuloco do these bearings have some radial play? My axle shaft can move up and down enough to make a little clunk, but there's no putting and the shaft looks really smooth and good condition.
Is some play normal?
@@FordTechMakuloco i have a 03 f250 superduty xlt 4x4 with the 5.4 and i replaced the axle seal twice because it keeps leakin from the axle seal. What would cause that
@@bradylane8502 axle shaft might be worn, get a micrometer and measure thickness where seal rides
I can't believe how expensive the synthetic 75W 140 is ! I was sorely tempted to go with the 85W 140 conventional , but I decided to go with the recommended even though it cost three times as much .
I just did this to my 2008 Ford F150. You are a lifesaver bro thank you so much!
This is, bar none, one of the best tutorials I've seen on RUclips. Thanks for doing such a great job. I'm thinking about doing this myself, not a great mechanic but do my own fluid changes, tune ups, and so on. This looks like it's something I could do. Thanks again.
It’s easier than it looks 🎉 can be time consuming if your like me and have to over clean everything ( like diff cover and bolts)🤙
Thanks for the video, very helpful. 2004 New Style F150 with 10.25 axle and 200,000 Miles. I also replaced the bearings, although I doubt it was necessary. There was some wear on the axle shafts and the fill hole was plugged with a thick greasy concoction of fine metallic particles. I assume it was from the ring gear assembly and drawn in there from the magnetic plug. Wear on the ring and pinion was not what I wanted to see, too far out on the teeth of the ring gear. Next up is the leaking pinion seal, and maybe a new ring and pinion sometime down the road.
I got a gusher leak on right rear on my 2001 F-150. It has disc brakes in back, so the service brakes should be ok. I plan on brake-Kleening the emergency brake like you did in the video, assuming not totally trashed. I had a similar leak on driver's side of my 1989 F-150, with drum rear brakes, so a bigger job. Seems like nothing on these diffs has changed back to at least 1989. I just hope my axle shaft is not gouged on the 2001, as I have not torn apart yet. Waiting on parts and ordered 1 new bearing just in case, but no new axle shaft.... Great video as usual!!!
Best mechanic youtuber.thank you always say all neccassary things to know.
Thank you for spending the time for us, I was going to take mine in because i am getting too old for this stuff but thanks to you I am going to do the repair my self. great video.. I have a 2007 f150 and it is my first ford and I have to say its my last I have got the biggest lemon I think for has ever made or there really is a chevy god and he is really pissed at me for jumping ship.
Thanks again Brian
great camera work. doing this 39 years just wanted to see if you knew your stuff. well done
+tim arnold Yeah by the time I recorded this video I had done countless rear end rebuilds so it was a good time to teach what I have learned.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your quick response!!!!! I look forward to more of your vids!!!
The music is amazing thanks for the information
Great video. You are very meticulous and I’d 100% trust you to work on my truck.
Thanks, this help much about on our 2000 Ford Transit 330. Never done this before and after watching this is was easy. Never done before, never...
That was helpful. I noticed the rear brakes on my '03 Ranger felt weird and the brake wasn't holding very well. Pulled off the drums and found one side completely saturated with gear oil and the other side getting damp. Oh well, looks like an easy enough job to do. I'll obviously do both sides and will have to replace the brake shoes also since they're wet. I was considering putting new axle bearings in but I can't imagine they are bad. They are cheap enough to do while I'm in there I guess. Thanks for the video!
Kudos for the Christian music playing. Glad to hear it!Informative video. About to tackle this on my 09 F250
I think this is about the most informative and well explained video I have seen on repair work. Thank you for posting it. I have a 2003 F150 and was told my pulsating brakes are from the same seal leaking. Is that a realistic reason brakes would pulsate? Clearly I need to change the seal out anyway.
No I have never seen one that was wet or soaked in this fluid cause the pulsating brakes.
Thanks. Wonder why it's pulsating
The rear are prone to pulsate on these as they are very thin
This is how you make vid!
Very good vid,attention to detail great,thanks!
Thankyou for your video. You make it look like an easy job. I plan on doing this job on my ford explorer.
I had my seal done a year ago by a shop and the seal has been leaking for a year I've never replaced these before what should I do since I've never done these before I'll keep watching the video ,I have wicked bad anxiety when doing jobs I've never done before and mines on a 91 mustang gt
Great Video! I think it is recommended to only use that lock pin twice. Great views not much editing and good detail.
Aye, probably the best vid about this job, next time don't tap the ring spanner on the inner pin retaining bolt but torque to Ford specs same like the well explained torque set and pattern on the outer diff cover. Overall good job.
Brother you have a wonderful video here. Thank you so much for taking the time to tutor me on this job. Blessings!
Thanks for your help God Bless Y6
Great video, im not changing mine but having a mechanic change it, but i wanted to know the process to make sure they dont mess with me, turns out seals are really cheap too
Maybe you have a different kind of wrench than I do, but I tried to do what you did and after tapping it a couple times with a hammer I had sheared off all the points on the head of the bolt (and it was a 5/16ths). I would not suggest that method. I did manage to get it out by sticking the same size socket on it, then adding an extension to that. I doesn't sit perfect but it still held way better than the round end of a wrench.
Awesome video thank you I have a 99 f-150 5.4 L V8 triton not sure what the axle is but I’m hoping I can get it done my self, I just noticed my rear passenger tire it’s very wet looking and I just hope it’s the seal I hope to hear from you thank you again
Man u saved me a hell of a lot of truble thanks
Very well filmed and narrated! Very helpful! Thanks!
I was just about to do the same job, Thanks to your video well explained, I don't think I going to have any problem. Thank you for it. And from now on I am one more Subscribed
KLOVE playing in the background. Good on you.
Love Klove !! listen every day
Love the music in back round!!!!!
I swear I've redone the seal on my rear differential cover 3 times! Leaks every damn time!
thanks , you make the best tutorials out there
I think you are sppt on // My F250 SD is older But you really get It/ Iwish FORD would make stainleess lines on ALL Thanks for tranny advise I appreciate tou// You are GOOD
I follow a lot of your videos, so I appreciate that you have this out there - I have this exact problem, but I"m wondering, should I just plan to replace both seals or just the one that has the leak? It seems like a good amount of effort to do one if the other may develop the same leak soon...
Great video!! Now I just need to do mine. Love the music too. God bless.
Thank you for sharing this video . It was very helpful to me. Good step by step instruction . Does this procedure work for a 1997 Ford Crown Victoria police interceptor as well ?
Hello..GREAT VIDEO. I have to agree with the above comments, the detail is Phenominal. I have a question. On my 05 Explorer XLT I just found my fluid on my Left and Right Half shafts and am wondering if I go about repairing my truck the same way?? Do I need to remove both half shafts and the case?? Could you help Please? Thank you in advance.
jsjizza1 You just need to remove both halfshafts then pop the seals out and put new in.
Another great video. I am looking at a tone ring replacement on a 2005 F250 SD Diesel. I am trying to find some information on that how to. Do you have any video recommendations?
always great to watch your videos i learn so much thank you
thanks for the great video love the music in the back man!
No gasket? Just sealant?
What type/Brand of sealant?
Great video.
I've been looking for rear wheel seals for my 2004 model, and it's been confusing because apparently there's more than one type of wheel seal for more than one type of rear end. I can't seem to figure out what to look for, so if I could get some help, that would be appreciated.
Very clear, and well explained. Attention to detail. Great video! New subscriber here!👆🏼
Great tutorial as always!
The most informative RUclips video I've ever seen. Great job! How did you push the axles in tho? And I have a good 2000 crown vic. What rear dif fluid do you recommend
On the crown vic you likely have to push in the axles and turn them a bit then they will drop in a bit more then you will be able to get the c clip in. The wheel studs interfere with the brake hardware and wont let you push axle in far enough until you turn them a bit. Full synthetic 80w-90 unless your towing.
Great video, love the Christian music in the back ground.
this channel makes me want to stuff my pockets with brake clean and shop rags so i can clean everything i encouter
Apparently previous owner of my brothers 97 f150 XL 2 WD had rearend work done. While he was attempting to replace outer axle seals and bearings. Low and behold while trying to remove pinion pin the locking bolt it seems the end of the bolt is broke off in the pin. Because pin will not come out. And the end of the bolt seems jagged. Hmmm. Now hes stuck. How can we get it out? He tried a magnet.
Very helpful thanks and I love the background music.
Thanks you helped me out yet again. Keep the videos coming.
Great video. Its like a shop class
If you get leaking axle seals it's always good to inspect the wheel bearings. I had a Nissan Titan that the wheel bearings kept going bad and the bearing material kept destroying the axle seals causing them to leak.. I'll never own another Nissan since they refused to upgrade the diff, only replace parts while under warranty.
Another very informative video. Thank you for doing this.
Wish you would do one on the clutch pack kit for LSD diffs.
Thanks!
Hi Brian. Would you kindly do a video on 2011-2017 Ford Explorer rear differential fluid drain and fill service? I looked on BSG Automotive for similar on Mazda CX-9, but it seems Mazda was smart enough to design an accessible drain and fill plug.
Wonder why ford recommends 75w 140 on everything but the Crown Vic you mentioned which I assumed would be the same as the Town Car up until 2011 because they are the panther chassis.
It seems that 75w 140 is a fully synthetic fluid and would give better protection than the 80w 90 that came in those Factory and what I assume is still recommended.
I have seen some talk that in certain applications that 80w 90 differential fluid actually gives better protection then I fully synthetic 75w 140. Maybe it's one of those situations???
Hello, I have a question, Can the same procedure be applied to a 2009 Ford Crown Victoria?
Thank you!!
Is it the same procedure to remove the axles if I have a factory rear locker?
Hello. Love your attention to cleanliness and detail. I was concerned however that you dramatically over-tightened the 3/8 bolt for the locking bar. spec torque is only 20lbs. you probably had 2 or 3 times that.. can you give an input to your reasoning?
Good luck with your helping tour - i have donated
Ever deal with a broken crosspin bolt? Real PITA to get out.. When those leak at high miles I always replace the bearing too (with a Timken).
alb12345672 One time yes but I was able to tap it and unscrew it out I was very lucky.
FordTechMakuloco I was messing in my box not long ago and found my extra pin bolt I kept on hand back in the day. I got lucky and walked everyone I had break out with a pick.
Hey man I have a 99 F250 LD would this have the same diff as the one in the video? I can't find any info on this truck at all but need to replace the seals ASAP.
thanks for all your videos! but I'm wondering why use a silicone type sealant and not a paper gasket of some kind?
+Curtis Bull I follow what Ford uses on them from the factory following workshop manual procedures is all.
Les schwab couldn't do my seal . They said someone put a bandaid repair on it ?? Do you know what they meant ??
really helpful video, thanks
On 97 f150 XL . 2 WD. Pin will not budge after removing the bolt. I. Differential that is. Tapped, pushed, wiggled axle ends. Still nothing. The bolt seems short to me. Did 06 f150 lariat puexe of cake.
I have an F-150 2015 I get a vibration in the front end only when it'temperatures between 50 and 70°, if it's warmer than 70 I don't get it I have all new rotors all new brakes check the hubs they're both fine check the iwe they're okay too could it be my transmission
Thank you so much for this!! I’m hoping that the same process will apply for me 1992 E-150? The local shop quoted $800 and I would love to do this myself. I enjoy doing my own work as long as I have toque specs etc.
Oanother question, what types of sealant should I be purchasing for the differential housing and plug? Cheers!
Have a 2001 e250 with same set up..I want to install lokka locker...how many splines on this axel ??
I am very worried, can you help me, my car also has this problem, how much does it cost?
Thank you for this! What tool are you using to center the seal in this video and where can you get one? Thank you!
I just asked the same question.
Your supposed to remove the fill plug first. Plus most RTV brands say to let the RTV dry for an hour before torqueing to spec.
Oh yeah when is the last time you found a seized fill plug? The plugs NPT thread pitch is designed to get tighter the further it goes eliminating water ingress plus the pipe sealant, so a seized plug is very uncommon. I have worked in the salt belt 30 years never saw one and I have worked on some rusted nightmare vehicles. I set the cover bolts right away as Ford instructs and never a problem with diff covers leaking. My work is done based on lots of experience not what a package or workshop manual says.
Excellent detailed video! Thanks!
Great video. Thanks, everything is well explained.
Love the music in this shop!
Great video... What happens once you remove the pinion nut, but don't have a wheel puller? What if I was hammering the whole flange off, and the shaft is coming out as well? :-(
How did you remove the zig zag piece on the middle doesn’t let you push the shafts in
Absolutely love your videos! Saved me a lot of money so far. So my 2006 f150 recently started to get a squeaking from the rear, changed brakes. Thought maybe some dust. Took them apart and cleaned everything good and checked for any rubbing from the rotor splash shield. Also watched your video with the heat shield on the driveshaft, wasn't that either. All seemed to check out. Could this be a rear bearing gone bad? It a similar squeaking like brakes which I notice at 10-20 mph. I don't want to have to take everything apart, replace and then the bearings be completely fine because it's my daily driver. Thanks!
Great video. Thanks!