Electric stove burner gets too hot. Whirlpool range burner stays on high
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- How to fix electric stove burner gets too hot. Repair Whirlpool stove burner stays on high. Whirlpool infinite switch replacement, temperature regulator on range oven WEE730H0DS0 electric stove switch repair.
Disclaimer: I'm just sharing my personal experience, and if you find my video useful, please be careful and perform all repairs at your own risk. Thank you.
I just replaced two infinite switches on our Whirlpool electric stove this morning. It took me 20 mins from start to finish and about $80 for parts. Easy job and now both of our dual zone front burners are working correctly. Thanks for your vid. (01/04/24)
Nice work!
My dual burner stayed on high no matter where I set the dial. I removed the switch to investigate. I took the cover off and turned the knob. I noticed a copper colored bimetalic contact that was staying closed all of the time. I used a tiny screwdriver and bent the contact upward slightly. It sprang back up in the open position. On closer inspection I noticed it was a little warped. I carefully pried it until it was straight. I reassembled the switch and tested it out. Works like new again. I ordered a replacement part just in case this one messes up again. This one worked well for four years so I expect the other one to go as well.
I am having the same problem. I have had this stove for six years. It just starting malfunctioning a few months ago.
Thank you so much. This model is underrepresented in online repairs, despite the fact that this malfunction seems to be very common after 5 years of use. You helped me a lot!
Glad it helped!
Great video! That's exactly the problem I'm having with my stove top
Glad it was helpful!
Good video. Self -repair is the way I went for a GE...saved me hundreds of dollars.
Right on!
Thank you for the video!!
I was having trouble finding the right model, and noticed that you had the info in some of your replies!
Now my husband won't be cursing the stove!🤣😂
Great to hear!
Really needed this video. My whirlpool 5 burner glass top has that same problem. Largest burner turns on high no matter what position it is in. I guess I will start with the infinite switch
Good luck!
Man i just scorched a pan while my burner was on low, got so confused and looked up the issue. Didnt mention model or anything and my search turns up this issue of my exact model of oven. Wow. Thanks for this video man im gonna take a look at my switch and see if its damaged or faulty
Good luck.
Same happened to me. I obliterated a grilled cheese and it turns out my burners are going on hight. This stove hasnt even been used much. My whirlpool microwave caught on fire and burned out too. It was only 3 years old. Im expecting my whirlpool fridge to do something now too. I guess you get what you pay for
just bought this stove on clearance at the brick. how do you guys like this stove so far?
It is criminal that so many people having problems with the infinite switch
Maybe because people use high to med all the time for cooking
@ericxxonvf
I usually turn the stove to about 3, most of the time. Once in a while, I some times turn it to 5 maximum, and still I am having the same problem.
Is there a circuit board or just the switch?
Great video, THANK YOU!!!!
My stove was working good from past 3 years now suddenly getting hot on very low point.. pls share if you have any idea about this case.. thanks 😊
Same here!
same. I would be cooking something like pancakes and in 30 seconds its already burnt. Also the oil turns brown bc it is so hot when it is literally at the lowest point.
Were you able to solve it?
@@ngndnd did you solve it?
The video is literally to solve this issue lol
I am having same issue with my ge stove,,,replaced the switch and it still get too hot ?? ANY IDEAS
I have the same problem . Where do you find that part, like on home depot or online?
The part number is printed on the infinite switch itself. Enter it here www.searspartsdirect.com/ for OEM quality. Or search Amazon for cheaper but unknown quality.
I have the same issue. Replaced the switch been still having the issue. Any suggestions on what it could be?
I have the same model oven and the same problem on the same burner. The left front is also doing the same thing (the dual mode burner). Do these both use the same model infinite switch or are they different?
They are 2 different switches. It's best to remove the original switches and google the part number. The new switches will probably have an updated number, but the original should be somewhere in that description.
Great video!!😊
Thanks for the visit
Hi will it be the same for Samsung glass top cooking range? The infinite switch?
A bad infinite switch is the most common problem for all brands, so try replacing it first.
@@Your-Self where do we get it to buy?
in Canada? Will it be different for different make?
Our M/C: NE58F9710WS/AC
Sorry if the questions are so silly. I’m totally new to these kind of things and the video gave me a confidence to do it by ourselves.
It looks like your range model has 4 different infinite switches (regulators), so make sure you buy the correct one. Enter your model number into Encompass.com, click on "Interactive Exploded View", and chose the correct regulator. You could buy it on Amazon cheaper, but it could be fake.
@@Your-Self okay let me try..👍🏻thank you so much.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!
Very helpful video thanks 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
This is my exact oven but my problem is my warm zone. It won’t turn off. I’ve unplugged turn breaker off and I plug it back in or flip breakers it comes back on even when on ‘off’? What is wrong? I’m afraid of it, sparking a fire.
It's very possible that the warm-zone relay on the control board got stuck ON. You probably need to replace the electronic control board to fix it. But for now, it's probably best to turn the breaker OFF while not using the range.
I have exactly this model and I have exactly this problem can you tell me the part number for buy them on amazon or other site please 👍 thanks
I installed part# W11162115. Your range may look similar to mine but be different. So it's better to unscrew the original switch and get the part# from it.
Good video, thank you so much
Glad I could help, Thanks for watching.
Those look like much sturdier replacement knobs. Do you mind sharing where you got them? I don't have any problems with mine yet, but the reviews indicate it's only a matter of time and the replacement Whirlpool knobs are over $20 each and they're all plastic. I'd love to have the sleeker look and sturdier design of the knobs you have there. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Those knobs are original and may not fit your range. What is your range model number? I could look up compatibility or give you an alternative part number.
@@Your-Self WEE745H0FS2. There are many reviews that point out that the knobs are plastic and will eventually break. Also, all the reviews point out that the "stainless steel" around the control panel is actually a coated plastic that will eventually peel and look dated. If you have a fix for this, I'd love to hear it too. Thanks for your help!!!
The number you provided doesn't seem to be valid.
@@Your-Self I had one too many E’s and a missing S. Try the edited model number: WEE745H0FS2.
The original knob W10850027 was replaced by a new part W11517331. But I'm not sure if it's any better quality. partsdr.com/part/w11517331-knob-stainless
The control panel steel-look may peel off, and the only way to fix it that I know of is to replace it. Part number W10884503.
Amazing. Thanks
Thank you too!
Very helpful, thanks.
My front right burner will not turn on at all. How do I test the switch to make sure that is the problem?
I'd suggest calling a technician to do a "live test" which can be dangerous.
But if you are comfortable with electricity, there is a picture diagram in this video at 2:02 for reference.
Turn the switch ON max and measure 240VAC between L1 and L2.
From there the same 240VAC should be present between H1 and H2. If there is nothing on H1 and H2, the switch is bad. But if you have 240VAC there, the burner itself or the wiring is bad.
i replaced the infinity switches and I still have a problem. Help
i have a jenn air JES9750AAA and the front electric burner ran on full hot and was not controllable. i replaced the infinite switch with W1120791. the burner is now controllable when it is on by itself, but when i turn the back burner on at the same time the front burner is on, the front burner is now uncontrollable again. the back burner and front burner work perfect and are controllable when on by themselves and the back burner works perfect even when the front burner is on, but the front burner only works perfect when it is on by itself. can you please give me ideas/suggestions? thanks!
Apparently, the updated infinite switch W11120791 has "flipped" internals. You can use it on regular single burners, but your range has a cartridge of 2 burners together, right? If so, you need to replace both infinite switches and rewire connections... but that should be done by a professional tech. Maybe try to look for the original infinite switch at your local part-supply stores. That way, you don't have to rewire anything.
@@Your-Self great answer! thanks! my range cartridge does have two burners together. do all i need to do is buy another W1120791 switch? you mentioned "rewire connections". what does that mean? you are very helpful. thanks!
I don't want to be liable for anything going wrong, so I recommend calling a technician.
The original infinite switch was providing the constant power to the burner through the H1 terminal, and the H2 terminal was controlling the temperature by clicking on/off. The new switch W11120791 has the H1 terminal as the temperature control, and the H2 ("Hc" - new standard) is the constant power. So for both burners to work properly, you need to install either 2 original switches or 2 new updated switches, and the wires going to the H1 and Hc terminals need to be swapped around on each infinite switch.
@@Your-Self you are amazing! thank you!
What is the part number of the switch? When I look online I see a lot of options. I have the exact stove and the same burner seems to be doing what yours is. Also, the cooktop on light won't turn off.
The original part number (written on the switch) is W10600015, but it was superseded by a new part W11162115. So if your number is not available it was probably upgraded. After you replace the switch, the light may go OFF as well... let me know if it doesn't.
What do you mean after you replace the switch, the light goes off as well?
@Domingo Noynay as the original question stated the "cooktop light won't turn off". But after switch replacement, it should be fixed and go OFF!
Where can I find this any online link?
Every model has different infinite switches. Look at your switch, and enter that part number into Google... see what comes up.
Is this the same with all brands? I have a GE glass top electric range and burner overheats? (model JB620DR4BB)
This is the most common issue on all brands. Just make sure to buy the correct element switch. If it doesn't help, we can dig deeper later.
Seems they go out every two years. Keep a few on hand..
Thanks for this video!! Very helpful!! 🤙🏼👍🏼
Glad you found it helpful, and thanks for watching!
YourSelf I almost buy a new stove! 🤦🏻♂️
I really appreciate it! 👍🏼🤙🏼
could it also be the actual radiant burner that is defective? I've a Kenmore glass top 4 burners and one of them the temperature goes high at a lower setting, say 2 to 3.
If your stove is computer-controlled, the temperature sensor (metal rod in the middle of the burner) could be out of calibration. Or the wire for the burner is the wrong size, loosely connected, or rusted, creating distortion in temperature reading.
@@Your-Self Replacing the radiant element it's a little expensive. I'll try the infinite switch replacement first(18 bucks) and see if that's the culprit. BTW, aren't all glass top ranges computer controlled (computer board)? mine it's the 790.95033506 and do remember replacing the controller board a few years back. Please note I'm talking about the round heating elements under the glass top, not the oven unit per se.
Your Kenmore model (Frigidaire/Electrolux build) comes up as infinite switch controlled, so, yes, replace that first. The oven, however, is controlled by the circuit board.
@@Your-Self Great thanks! I'll replace all four switches to get a few more years out of my range.
Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching!
Is the switch different depending on which burner has the issue?
Some switches are the same, for example, two large burners could be rated let's say at 2500 Wats. Two smaller ones at 1500 Wats, and the smallest at 1000 Wats. The best way to figure this out is to look at them and replace them with the same Wattage value.
Awesome 👌
Thank you! Cheers!
I need to do that nice video buddy
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
how do you set it stay high all the times ? I am looking for the other way around
He didn't. The stove has this problem. He fixed it.
I had a neighbour replace a switch after it burned out and wasn't turning off. Now the new switch that he installed gets the range element burning hot at only 2 or 3. Even at these low settings any liquid or oil in the the pan will boil rapidly.
The new switch could be wired incorrectly, be a wrong model number, or be bad as well.
What’s the part number? I have the exact same problem, same burner, same range.
Typically, it's better to remove your switch and replace it with the same part number written on the switch. Since you have the same range as this one, the large burner switch part number is W10600015, which was superseded by the new version W11162115. Google that number, and you should be able to find it. Good luck!
🎉4pm all my burner are doing that
Could you provide a part number please?
Different range models will have different part numbers.
It's best to look at a switch you are trying to replace to get the part number from it.
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
What if all are not holding temp keep going to high
It sounds strange for all mechanically-operated switches to go bad at the same time. But if you have a computer-operated range, that's possible. What is the complete model number of your range? I'll try to look up schematics and see what could be wrong.
I replaced my cheap oven/range of 20+yrs with this iexact one and every switch has gone bad within 3 years. Nicer isn't always better. Hate this oven.
What's the part # for the switch on this model? Thanks.
Every burner may have a different switch number. So, it's best to unscrew the panel and look at the number stamped on the switch.
When you search for that number, the result may provide an updated number for the same switch.
Piece of crap if within 2 years it malfunctions
Great video. However it is much safer to unplug from the wall because circuit breakers can have problems and shouldn't be relied on.
Unplugging from the wall is definitely better. But if the LED screen goes blank after flipping the circuit breaker, you are pretty safe... unless the wiring is not up to code.
@@Your-Self that's what I meant, wiring could be wrong or chewed by rat, you flip breaker, get screen off, but some wires are hot and can kill. We usually use a beeper to sense all wires inside the unit this should be done religiously in all cases.
👍
No. Stove
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