That's seemed to be the most critical thing to the whole repair... Knowing WHAT is being repaired. Considering this repair works across multiple units, as well.
I just replaced two infinite switches on our Whirlpool electric stove this morning. It took me 20 mins from start to finish and about $80 for parts. Easy job and now both of our dual zone front burners are working correctly. Thanks for your vid. (01/04/24)
Thank you so much! My stove is six years old now. The left front burner will only cook on high even when I turn it to low. Bought it at Lowes and they weren’t very much help gave me a phone number. Fixing to order that part right now. I’m a widow and I have to do most things on my own and videos like yours definitely help!
Patricia, mine is the same age, also bought at Lowes and I have the same left front burner issue. I'm ordering the part from Amazon now and thanks to the Repair Dude, I'll be fixing it myself. Thanks Home Improvement Channel!
You da' man, thanks pal! I have the same issue going on with a Whirlpool and if my wife yells at me one more time while she's cooking dinner to fix the stove we may be having to go see a lawyer lol. Ordering the switch and getting this job knocked out this week. Thanks for the advice and for sharing things like these to help people out with a quick youtube search. Keep up the good work, simple, concise, and to the point.
Thank you so much for the video... my stove has been acting up for a while, thought about just buying a new one. After watching your video, ordered the part you had posted and it all worked perfectly and was done in about 5 minutes. Thanks again, you are appreciated.
Thank you so much! Every year now for the last ten approximately, on thanksgiving, I give thanks to people like you who save us time and money. It’s awesome to be able to fix things ourselves.
This is exactly what our 10 year old Kenmore range is doing. Works most times but sometimes burns food. I'm going to have a look tomorrow morning. Thanks so much.
I checked out the electric range and all 4 burner switched have what I would call moderate to severe soot deposits around the contactor. I'm wondering now if I should replace the 4 of the switches or just the defective switch.
I just completed replacing the switch on my Whirlpool range using your excellent video as a guide. Nothing to do with your fantastic instructions, but the stem on the new switch sticks out further than the original, now so does the knob. A small thing, to have the stove in tip top shape again. Thanks so much, Rudy! 👍🪛👏
HI! Thanks for the great feedback. I don't have that oven anymore, but I do seem to remember that mine stuck out a little bit more than factory too... 😀
Oh yea.. Service calls are very expensive. I can understand why, most of what you pay for is them showing up to your door.... Thanks for the comment... :-)
Thanks mine does the same thing , I put it on low and the heat is raging on high , have to turn it off , ordered the part as I have the same range , will get hubby to change it out for me this weekend , thanks man , appreciate this.👍👍
I’m having the same exact problem. I am going to order this part. Update - I called Lowe’s since I bought my stove from there. They gave me a number to call and I was able to purchase from this place. The part came in and And it was as easy as unplugging the old part and plug-in and a new one my stove works properly now. Thanks Rudy!
Thanks for the video! My range has been doing this for a long time. Called a repairman and he said the burner needed to be replaced, as well as the infinite switch. That just didn't sound right to me, so I started researching. This is exactly what my stove is doing; I've said the burner is losing it's mind! Not sure I want to replace it my self, but I'm sure I know someone who will do it for me.
Try switching one of the other controls to the bad burner and see if it cures that bad one (as long as they're the same).. if so, you'll have more confidence that the control will fix the problem.. :-)
Excellent video and great teaching. I have a question about Whirlpool - 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Electric Range, Model:RF362LXSQ Front left burner was going but not alternating off to on as usual, and as we got the repair man he seems to have fixed it and now it’s pulsating again, but it takes about 30 seconds in intervals. First hot, then it goes off for 30 seconds, then it comes back again. Is the 30 seconds interval normal time?
HI, I can't say if "30 seconds" is a normal time, but unless the burner is on the highest setting it is normal for it to pulse between off and on. And yes it can stay in the off mode for around 30 seconds or so... That's how it moderates the temp. The burner itself doesn't burn any hotter or colder with the settings, it's just on or off. The pulsating between off and on is how you would make a setting like "medium" to work.. if that makes sense.
Burned my pancakes last weekend and my salmon tonight, figured it was time to figure out what is going on. Thanks the video!! Ordered the part and will be here soon.
I had the same problem. Reminded me of the fix for old TV channel tuners. They tended to get dirty and would not work correctly. I had the same problem with the burner not regulating. Try spinning the control knob around and around and back and forth. This is how you used to clean corrosion off tuners and it worked for me on the stove infinite control.(at least for the last 2 weeks)
Excellent.. Oh yes, I remember those very well.. If It breaks again, you might want to add some electronics cleaner. They are still using that cleaner to clean volume knobs on radios, etc. DeoxIt makes a good one.. Thanks for the great feedback.. 😀
Thank you for the video. I live in an apartment and just one day my 1 large burner on older model whirlpool stove/oven combination range went to high and no matter what setting i had it on it was what i thought even higher than the highest temp should be.. I contacted management and at first she told me that was impossible, i just be mistaken. well maintenance came by and said they had to replace that part. everything worked good for about 6 weeks then issue started again. they replaced the part again and tested stove (visually) and said it was fixed. Less then a week and it happened again.. I asked that they replace my appliance but the maintenance man said it was an older stove so the part was aftermarket. he said w/aftermarket part the temp would be different so I would need to select a temp setting less than what i needed to use and it would be ok. I may be blonde and a female but the whole time he was talking all i could think of is "you think im buying this b.s,?" Well it doesn't matter what temp i choose it goes to high. I almost caught the apartment on fire frying bacon, thinking it was on medium. What can I tell my complex so that they will repair or replace my appliance properly? besides asking if they really think i am an idiot.?
Wow, that's a good one. I guess they keep replacing the same part? Maybe ask them to replace the element. There may be something wrong with the element, causing the temp control to keep burning up. I don't know what you could tell them so that they'll replace the whole element, except that they've been there multiple times and it's not fixed and I would mention that you almost burned the whole joint down while cooking bacon! That might help...😆
Good video but I still have a problem. I haven't found a video to address the issue of 3 out of 4 of my burners do not regulate the heat properly. Would 3 switches go bad or is there another 'master switch'?
Not regulating heat properly means that all of them are getting power... I would maybe consider replacing one of the switches to see if the problem goes away before spending money for 3 of them...
You may notice some push-on connectors are very hard to pull off a mating tab because they might be the safety type with a very tiny push pin that needs to be depressed with a fingernail or small screwdriver before pulling connector for removal.
What's the difference between an infinite switch and a surface element switch? When I looked for a replacement I see both options for my model, and they don't look alike. Thanks for your help!
HI.... I don't know what exactly is the difference, but the manufacturer for this stove calls it the infinite switch, so I'd get that one... 😊 There might be 2 different ones since this stove uses 2 large burners and 2 small. I'm not 100% sure on that, but it is something to make sure of when you order it.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Thanks - your video is such a huge help! I was able to see that the other item may be for a gas range, not electric even though it's under the same model #. In any event, yes, it's the infinite switch I need, thanks again! Keep up the great work, you're helping a lot of people!
I bought a whirlpool convection range and while the oven works great (so far), I have burned at least half of what I try and cook on the stove top. Just today a pot of beans scorched within 30 minutes of putting them on and the dial was set on low because I can't find a happy medium with the burners. It's either OFF or DEFCON 5 BOIL. I'm so disappointed in this. But I am going to order some infinite switch components and replace the burners and hope for the best. Thank you for making this video!
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel The two biggest burners seem to be the ones I cannot get to regulate temperature. The two smaller ones are fine so far. I've only had this range a month. I have ordered the two switches for those two burners. I'm reduced to using the microwave and as any good cook will tell you, it comes with a good deal of shame.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Since I bought it as a returned item, (it had been damaged on delivery and was returned), the warranty is void. I paid $500 for a $1200 range, and I'm starting to worry that it wasn't worth it. lol
My glasstop store is having a element pro lem. The element stays on high all the time. Will I need to replace the element or the knobs. As you can tell I don't know much about the repair process so any help would be appreciated. By the way I'm a 70 year old grandma that can't afford a repair man so I'm going to try to do this myself.
I'm only guessing, but from your description it's the switches behind the knobs as I show in the video here. If your stove has more than one element and you have another element of the same size, (large to large or small to small switch) I would take the switch from the working one and swap it to the suspected position to confirm if that fixes it or not. Take a picture of the wiring before you take anything apart and be sure to not do this job while the stove is plugged in! This way you can confirm the problem without spending any $$...
I have a kenmore coil stove top and all 4 burners have runaway heat whether one 9 or 1. Does this still sound like 4 individual parts gone bad? Also the oven runs a little hot but is usable if you watch what you’re cooking closely. Top burners ... you can’t watch and cook on. Will burn every time.
I don't know how you're particular stove is wired. I think there's only the burner and the burner control. You might have a schematic in a envelope on the back of the stove. If you do, take a look at it and see if there's anything else listed there. If not, it's one or the other. I'd start with one control and see if it solves the problem for that single burner before you invest in all 4. As for the oven, i'm not sure if there's a way to calibrate the temp or not.
I have a strange problem on a Samsung Range (Tripple element). It will not work until all the other ovens are on. Then when it turns on it is stuck in high. I am not sure what is causing this.
Thanks for the quick response - let me re-phrase ..... would I be correct in thinking ALL FOUR controls are the SAME MODEL number ? ( I DO understand there are 4 separate controls .... LOL ) In other words, the bigger burner has the same model infinity control as the smaller burners ? Not a different model number,with a higher capacity ???Thank YOU again !
Sorry for the confusion. Yes, I believe they are different part numbers. You'll have to google your Stove model number to get the parts breakdown and then from there you can see which part number goes to the burner control you need.. hope that helps.. :-)
HI, is it only one burner? It could be the same issue, but I have a feeling the burner might be bad. I would take out one of the switches from another burner of the same size and swap it with the one in question and see if it does the same thing. If it does, the burner is probably bad.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel after i changed the switch, inter coil is working, out coil is not working, but when i switch wrie, out coil is working, inter coil is not working, what's wrong?
Do you happen to have a video on testing the switch? I'm curious if it is possible to confirm the switch is the problem on a burner that is at max heat while on, regardless of setting.
HI, I don't. I usually suggest to switch out the switch with one of the other burners of equal size. IF that burner is working properly on the other burner, it should as well when you switch it out if that's the problem. Now of course if there's something else wrong, you're running the risk of damaging the other switch that was previously good. Most likely you won't, but just wanted to tell you it's always possible.
Thanks for the video. I wonder if the double burner has the same 3149400 part. This is a WFE515S0EW0. So now I have the double burner and the big one next to it staying hot.
What’s the chance all four switches need to be replaced? Bought a new home and literally all of the burners are doing exactly what you described. I thought I needed a special type of cookware to use with these types of stoves
I've had other people with the same question. I just did a google search and the only thing I came up with was the single burner like I have in the video. I haven't had anyone come back with a resolution or outcome. I doubt all the burners went bad, but I guess it's possible. I'd have to see a schematic of the stove to see if the board is in common with all the burners..
It's a possibility. I like to suggest if your stove has another burner that has a working switch to take that switch and swap it to the one in question to see if it solves the problem. Only do this from another burner of the same size, I believe the smaller ones are a different part number. Also take note of where all the wires went before you disconnect it.
Interesting problem. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for that one? I would look to see if there's anything else is in common with the burner. Is there a temp sensor that's possibly gone bad?
All four of my burners are flaking, which just started today. They will go to high, but when I turn the temperature down, they shut off. If it's all four, do I likely have a bigger problem?
That's a good question.. I am not sure how to answer that. Possibly look up the schematic for your stove and see what's in common with all 4. I'm thinking maybe the circuit board, but I'm guessing. Possibly one of the burners themselves is bad and it's affecting the other 3.. I've had this question pop up before and haven't come across the answer.
I don't have a video on that particular one. It could be the same concept. I usually tell people to swap out the switch with another one from another burner of the same size, but since yours has only 1 largest one, I don't recommend that. Try to google that problem on the one you have and see if anything useful comes up.
Yup, no luck. I replaced mine per your instruction with success, thank you. I've taken the old one apart. I'll clean the contacts then if the new one fails, I'll try adjusting it and pm you. Again thanks!
Our 12 year old Whirlpool Easy Clean range elements turn off and on when on " High " setting and breaker trips when oven and one element of any size is set to " High " . Any tips what might be going on ?
Aww man.. that sounds hard. It almost sounds like a defective breaker or the wrong breaker, since you said the "oven and one element of any size". Is it a 40 amp breaker and the does the stove (as a whole) require a 50a? Do any of the elements turn off when on high? Doesn't matter which one? Could be the circuit board.. Realize I'm only stabbing in the dark.. I could be wrong..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel - the elements except for the small one have always started fine on high but cycle off and on . Breaker is proper amperage for stove . Thanks for the quick reply btw .
Infinite switch... I usually recommend before ordering the part, if you have a stove like this with 2 big and 2 small elements to take the switch from the other element of the same size and switch the switch to the one that isn't working right to see if the problem has gone away... Then you'll know for sure that's the right problem..
It's usually the switch... could be the burner, but I wouldn't go out and buy a burner. if the wires will reach, try disconnecting another burner if you have another one of the same exact size and specs, and connect it to the switch in question and see if it makes any difference. Obviously with the power off!
My question is... my whirlpool stove stock on heat on the front both big burner but the 2 on the back ( small burner) is working properly, I dont think is the both switch are the problem? Can you please help me to solve my problem, thank you...😊
Hmm.. Did this problem happen at exactly the same time? Or did one develop a problem, then later the other one? Do you have the model number I can try to look up the electrical diagram..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannelhello and thank you for your time to answer my question,its developed a problem and when you used at the first time in medium hot it working properly but when it's too hot then try to put in lower position its stock and did not on & off the burner... model# YWFE510S0AS0 Series: R44524966 thanks.
Ok since I only seen you replace one of these switches, I'm guessing they don't all need replaced, which brings up a question... I constantly use the large burner, so can I simply just change out the switches from one of other (smaller) burners that I never use?? Are all of these switches the same??
I actually think the smaller ones use a different part number. You can look up your model number and compare to see if the bigger one and smaller one use a different part number.
I tried swapping the switches around as they look identical and appear to all be wired the same... Looking at the schematic for this stove though, the smaller burners do have smaller wattage switches, so hooking one of the switches from a smaller burner to a larger burner will result in the larger burner probably not getting enough wattage.. With things hooked up this way large burner will never get hot enough to fry food or boil water correctly..
Yes that's what I thought... but I think what would happen is not necessarily that the large burner wouldn't get hot enough. But I think it would burn out the switch pretty quickly with the smaller rating..
I have my doubts they both went bad at the same time... Not saying it's not possible, but what are the odds!? As to what to do next, if you had a wiring diagram you should be able to troubleshoot the switch and verify that's the problem before investing money in a new one.
Hi! Looking for help with my whirlpool stove/oven! Suddenly my cooktop burners will heat and sudden go very low and not heat back up or at all. It does say "cooktop on" but nothing will be cooking. Oven is doing the same, heating to about 200-215 and then stopping. Sometimes I can turn the cooktop off and slowly turn it back on and it it will heat properly, as well as turning the oven off and back on and it will heat properly. Any help is appreciated!!
HI, to me it sounds like a control board problem. It sounds like the problem is in common with everything, including the oven. I'm only just guessing. I'm not actually a professional appliance repair person, so some of these problems I haven't seen before. I'd have to see a schematic to see if the control board is in common with the other components..
I have a glass top GE stove that is about 4 years old. It has always cooked very hot. The burners seem to respond to being turned down, but it's either a full on boil or nothing. Do you know, are these glass top stoves just really hot cookers?
i have a jenn air JES9750AAA and the front electric burner ran on full hot and was not controllable. i replaced the infinite switch with W1120791. the burner is now controllable when it is on by itself, but when i turn the back burner on at the same time the front burner is on, the front burner is now uncontrollable again. the back burner and front burner work perfect and are controllable when on by themselves and the back burner works perfect even when the front burner is on, but the front burner only works perfect when it is on by itself. can you please give me ideas/suggestions? thanks!
Hi, I was trying to locate a service manual/ schematic of your unit, but I didn't have any luck. Do you have the wiring diagram? Sometimes it's attached to the back of the unit..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you for the reply. i was given this solution: The original infinite switch was providing the constant power to the burner through the H1 terminal, and the H2 terminal was controlling the temperature by clicking on/off. The new switch W11120791 has the H1 terminal as the temperature control, and the H2 ("Hc" - new standard) is the constant power. So for both burners to work properly, you need to install either 2 original switches or 2 new updated switches, and the wires going to the H1 and Hc terminals need to be swapped around on each infinite switch.
I’m having a similar problem if o e if the burner stays on high when turned on is it usually this element you replaced or is possible due to the heating element, where do you get the part you replaced on this video
HI, it could be either one.. I got the part from Amazon. It's called an infinite switch. If you have the time, I usually recommend to change out the switch with one of the other burners of the same size and try it in the place of the suspected switch. Then you'll know for sure without buying one. Just make sure not to leave the wiring for the switch you took out dangling where they can short together or against any metal parts of the oven...
@@mariajudyalvarez4069 It's more than likely the burner switch, but if in doubt, you can transfer one of the good burner controls into the spot where the problem is and see if it takes care of the problem.
Good question. I believe some stoves have a temp sensor in the element. But if it doesn't, I believe the element will change resistance when it heats up and the switch senses this and converts the resistance to a temp value. I am actually guessing though.
HI, I found this article ... Looks like you might have a bad burner. This will explain how to check and see which one it is.. (probably the one that keeps cutting off) www.appliancepartspros.com/diy-story-hot-cooktop-light-stays-time-diy2487403.html Hope this helps you. Thanks.
I think if the switch goes to another larger burner, those would be interchangeable.. as well as the ones that go to the smaller burners... I don't remember if you can change the smaller burners with the larger burners.. I seem to remember those were different, but I could be wrong.
Here's a question - do all 4 burners use the SAME infinity heat control device ? My smooth glass top stove has 2 - 6 inch burners, 1 - 8 inch, and a larger one - looks like a 10 inch. What needs my immediate attention is the 8 -inch - but I just want to be sure there aren't different versions for the different burner sizes - Thanks for an excellent video, by-the-way !!
I have this same.problem but last weekend i turned it on and it came on but then the burner completely died. Do i need to replace the switch, the burner, or both?
HI... There is a possibility the burner element shorted and then it took out the switch. A lot of times I recommend to move a switch from another burner that's the same size and put the switch in the place of the bad one to see if the problem goes away.... Trouble is, if the burner has shorted out, it will take out another switch! You might look for an electrical diagram for your particular model so you can test to see what is what. IF you're not comfortable working with 240VAC then I don't recommend that at all! You can probably ohm out the burner to see if it matches another one of the same size. You can do that with the power off to see if the burner went bad.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel before it went out there would always be a popping sound of electricity coming from the switch when it would connect to the burner did the one in your video ever do that
I don't remember for sure. If I remember right the two larger ones use the same part and the two smaller ones use their same part number.. If you have your model number, you can google the parts breakdown and you should be able to get the P/N that way..
I doubt if that switch would cause that. The stove breaker is usually 40-50 amps. It would probably melt with that kind of power going through it! When does it blow? When you turn on a certain stove element?.. when it's plugged in? For example if it only blows when you turn on the burner on the front right,.. but works for anything else, I'd be looking at stuff associated with that burner... and so on..
Yes it blew the breaker when turn on switch towards the front element .I will open the burner and check the burner for short to ground .is it possible also that the switch can be shorted inside the switch contact ?where is the common short to ground in whirlpool brand .
I'd have to see a wiring diagram for that. I can't say for sure. I would disconnect the burner and make sure the wire for the burner is insulated and try again with it disconnected. Then you'll be able to see if it's the burner if the problem is gone. With an ohm meter, the burner will probably read 8-10 ohms (just a guess), if its reading 1 or 2 ohms, then I'd say that's a problem.
you're not explaining WHAT PART it is? what is the part that causes this? I have a cooktop Whirlpool that is doing the same thing, I have had 2 so far and ALL do it. How do we fix cooktop style ones? I don't have the stove version.
I explained it! I replaced the switch that controls that burner. It's called the infinite switch. At least that's what Whirlpool calls it. It could be the same problem on the cooktop. If you can get to it, I would recommend changing out the switch for one that's in another position and see if it cures the problem. I would only do that if the other burner that you want to take the switch from is of the same size and type of the one that is faulty. I believe they use a different part number. Of course I would disconnect the power before you try anything like that.. 😀
Possibly... I would do some further troubleshooting to see if power is making it to the switch and then it's not leaving.. A lot of times a stove will have the wiring diagram.. or a simple way would be if you have a burner of the same size that's working properly, you can use the switch from that one and switch it with the one that's not working and see if it solves the problem.
Just make sure if you swap the switch to use one from a burner of the same size. If I remember right, the ones for the smaller burner use a different part number.. :-)
No, there could be something in common with all 4 burners. I doubt if they would all 4 go bad at the same time. Is there a wiring diagram with the stove? Or try to google your model number and that problem and see if anything pops up..
I don't know the part number. The best thing to do it find your model number. Probably on a sticker inside the door and google the model number and look up the infinite switch to make sure you get the right one. Make sure and pay attention to large burner / small burner. I think they are different.
Hopefully you'll see this comment. How will I know if the problem I'm having is the coil or the regulator? I'm going to assume that since the coil works it just stays on high when I set it on low that it's probably the regulator...any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the reply!!!
It probably is the regulator switch, but I do suggest that if your stove is like this one with 2 big and 2 small elements, take the switch from the other working element (of the same size) and swap it to the one in question. Making sure to disconnect power and take pictures of the wiring or write down the wiring so there's no chance of a mix up... Hope that helps.. 😀
I'm assuming the heating element is glowing red hot when it's on? If so, there should be a thermostat inside the oven somewhere probably towards the back that could be the problem..
Thank you for the video it was excellent! Question, I have a Whirlpool electric smooth cooktop. Do you think the same fix would apply? After seeing all the comments from people who have the same problem, I am thinking of switching to a gas powered cooktop. Do you have any opinion on these?
It "could" be the same problem. I aways tell people to use one of the other switches (from the same size burner) and switch it out with the suspected one.. then you'll know if it's fixed then that's the problem. Gas is great, but if you haven't already run a gas line, it can be quite a project.
Thank you, however my electric range burner functions erratically. But this could be a similar problem. I will buy the part. Nonetheless, the switch you had in your hand is called a range surface element control switch.
Yes its a good possibility that's what's wrong with yours. One thing I always recommend is if you have another burner of the same size as the one that's acting up, you can swap out the control switch with the one that works properly to see if the problem is gone, then you'll know before spending any money. Thanks...
You're my hero. I'm proud to be a 79 year old lady learning how to fix her old appliances from good people like you. Thanks.
awww.. Thank you so much for the great feedback... I really appreciate it. 😊
So everybody should know that "the part" that was replaced in this video is called a surface element switch or infinite switch.
You are the best
That's seemed to be the most critical thing to the whole repair... Knowing WHAT is being repaired. Considering this repair works across multiple units, as well.
Now we know! Thanks. Where do we buy it?
@@carlosraven4066 i scanned a qr code in the drawwer under my stove and it took me to a parts list and store
Thank you!
I just replaced two infinite switches on our Whirlpool electric stove this morning. It took me 20 mins from start to finish and about $80 for parts. Easy job and now both of our dual zone front burners are working correctly. Thanks for your vid. (01/04/24)
Sounds great! So glad I was able to help.... 😀
Thank you so much! My stove is six years old now. The left front burner will only cook on high even when I turn it to low. Bought it at Lowes and they weren’t very much help gave me a phone number. Fixing to order that part right now. I’m a widow and I have to do most things on my own and videos like yours definitely help!
Glad I could help! I hope it works when you get the new part... :-)
What was the name of the part that needed to be replaced inorder for the burners to work properly. How much does that part cost.
@@charlesdavis4826 Surface element switch
Patricia, mine is the same age, also bought at Lowes and I have the same left front burner issue. I'm ordering the part from Amazon now and thanks to the Repair Dude, I'll be fixing it myself. Thanks Home Improvement Channel!
Me as well!
You da' man, thanks pal! I have the same issue going on with a Whirlpool and if my wife yells at me one more time while she's cooking dinner to fix the stove we may be having to go see a lawyer lol. Ordering the switch and getting this job knocked out this week. Thanks for the advice and for sharing things like these to help people out with a quick youtube search. Keep up the good work, simple, concise, and to the point.
Glad to help... Thanks for the feedback, and I hope it works for you.. 🙂. I'm glad I can help keep the divorce rate down.. 😂
My man! Thank you so much…I was about to replace my stupid oven but for $18 I fixed it thanks to you!!!
That's awesome! So glad to help... You're welcome.
Thank you so much for the video... my stove has been acting up for a while, thought about just buying a new one. After watching your video, ordered the part you had posted and it all worked perfectly and was done in about 5 minutes. Thanks again, you are appreciated.
That's so awesome! Thanks for the feedback..
Thank you so much! Every year now for the last ten approximately, on thanksgiving, I give thanks to people like you who save us time and money. It’s awesome to be able to fix things ourselves.
You're welcome, I'm glad I could help! 😊
This is exactly what our 10 year old Kenmore range is doing. Works most times but sometimes burns food. I'm going to have a look tomorrow morning. Thanks so much.
Excellent!
I checked out the electric range and all 4 burner switched have what I would call moderate to severe soot deposits around the contactor. I'm wondering now if I should replace the 4 of the switches or just the defective switch.
@@scottfurlong5475 I think I would.. just make sure if there are different ones, they may not all 4 be the same
I just completed replacing the switch on my Whirlpool range using your excellent video as a guide. Nothing to do with your fantastic instructions, but the stem on the new switch sticks out further than the original, now so does the knob. A small thing, to have the stove in tip top shape again. Thanks so much, Rudy! 👍🪛👏
HI! Thanks for the great feedback. I don't have that oven anymore, but I do seem to remember that mine stuck out a little bit more than factory too... 😀
I’m soo glad I watched your video, I’m gonna fix my moms stove now, she was about but a new one.
That's awesome! Good luck. 😀😀. If I didn't say anything in the video make sure it's unplugged!
What a great and easy fix. It only took about 20 minutes to replace 2 knob controls. Saved about $200 in service call fees. Thanks!
Oh yea.. Service calls are very expensive. I can understand why, most of what you pay for is them showing up to your door.... Thanks for the comment... :-)
Soo you mean those two knob connected to that
Thanks mine does the same thing , I put it on low and the heat is raging on high , have to turn it off , ordered the part as I have the same range , will get hubby to change it out for me this weekend , thanks man , appreciate this.👍👍
Awesome! Hope it works out perfect for ya..
*Yeah I have this same stove bought in 2017 and the exact same infinite switch is staying on high. Thanks for this video sir.*
You are welcome
I’m having the same exact problem. I am going to order this part.
Update - I called Lowe’s since I bought my stove from there. They gave me a number to call and I was able to purchase from this place. The part came in and And it was as easy as unplugging the old part and plug-in and a new one my stove works properly now. Thanks Rudy!
Do you still have the number? I’d appreciate it!
Chelsea Coral here you go 18004768160
Esther Jurado thank you!!!!!!
Chelsea Coral no problem hope it helps
Thank you! This saved me a repair bill that would probably have cost as much as the whole stove cost when I bought it.
That's awesome! So glad I was able to help. You're welcome... 😊
Im giving a thumbs up & subscribing based on the video & the ease of repair.
Now i just have to get the part & install...
Thanks...
Excellent! and thanks for the Sub... :-)
Thanks for the video! My range has been doing this for a long time. Called a repairman and he said the burner needed to be replaced, as well as the infinite switch. That just didn't sound right to me, so I started researching. This is exactly what my stove is doing; I've said the burner is losing it's mind! Not sure I want to replace it my self, but I'm sure I know someone who will do it for me.
Glad it helped... I never had any trouble with my burner after replacing the switch. The repairman was probably just trying to be thorough.. 😊
Exact same stove, exact same front right burner, and same problem. Thank you.
Cool, thanks and You're welcome!😊😊
I'm about to do this to my oven. I really appreciate the info. I just hope the back of my oven is as clean as that one! :-D
The back should be pretty clean.. it's the sides that get all...ummm.. icky! From stuff falling down from the countertop.. :-)
I have this same problem with a kenmore. I have the cooktop only. Coil burners. It’s 36 inches and they are expensive now. Hope I can fix it.
Try switching one of the other controls to the bad burner and see if it cures that bad one (as long as they're the same).. if so, you'll have more confidence that the control will fix the problem.. :-)
You get two thumbs up .. will make repair A LOT easier .. thank you!!
That's Great! Thanks for watching...
Excellent video and great teaching. I have a question about Whirlpool - 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Electric Range, Model:RF362LXSQ
Front left burner was going but not alternating off to on as usual, and as we got the repair man he seems to have fixed it and now it’s pulsating again, but it takes about 30 seconds in intervals. First hot, then it goes off for 30 seconds, then it comes back again. Is the 30 seconds interval normal time?
HI, I can't say if "30 seconds" is a normal time, but unless the burner is on the highest setting it is normal for it to pulse between off and on. And yes it can stay in the off mode for around 30 seconds or so... That's how it moderates the temp. The burner itself doesn't burn any hotter or colder with the settings, it's just on or off. The pulsating between off and on is how you would make a setting like "medium" to work.. if that makes sense.
I'm having the same issue but my glasstop range in built into my counter. How do I open that up to change the element?
Can you get to it from underneath?
Easy as it looks and saved me a ton on having a repair guy come out. Thanks so much.
Ronald Broussard excellent 😎😎!
Burned my pancakes last weekend and my salmon tonight, figured it was time to figure out what is going on. Thanks the video!! Ordered the part and will be here soon.
Excellent! I hope it works good for ya.. 😊😊
I had the same problem. Reminded me of the fix for old TV channel tuners. They tended to get dirty and would not work correctly. I had the same problem with the burner not regulating. Try spinning the control knob around and around and back and forth. This is how you used to clean corrosion off tuners and it worked for me on the stove infinite control.(at least for the last 2 weeks)
Excellent.. Oh yes, I remember those very well.. If It breaks again, you might want to add some electronics cleaner. They are still using that cleaner to clean volume knobs on radios, etc. DeoxIt makes a good one.. Thanks for the great feedback.. 😀
Thanks..🖤 Do you have a video for the clock on the stove.. I can see half the numbers 🤦🏾♀️😁
HI, I don't have access to that stove any longer. My guess is it's the clock display itself. I'm only guessing though..
Thank you for the video. I live in an apartment and just one day my 1 large burner on older model whirlpool stove/oven combination range went to high and no matter what setting i had it on it was what i thought even higher than the highest temp should be.. I contacted management and at first she told me that was impossible, i just be mistaken. well maintenance came by and said they had to replace that part. everything worked good for about 6 weeks then issue started again. they replaced the part again and tested stove (visually) and said it was fixed. Less then a week and it happened again.. I asked that they replace my appliance but the maintenance man said it was an older stove so the part was aftermarket. he said w/aftermarket part the temp would be different so I would need to select a temp setting less than what i needed to use and it would be ok. I may be blonde and a female but the whole time he was talking all i could think of is "you think im buying this b.s,?" Well it doesn't matter what temp i choose it goes to high. I almost caught the apartment on fire frying bacon, thinking it was on medium. What can I tell my complex so that they will repair or replace my appliance properly? besides asking if they really think i am an idiot.?
Wow, that's a good one. I guess they keep replacing the same part? Maybe ask them to replace the element. There may be something wrong with the element, causing the temp control to keep burning up. I don't know what you could tell them so that they'll replace the whole element, except that they've been there multiple times and it's not fixed and I would mention that you almost burned the whole joint down while cooking bacon! That might help...😆
Good video but I still have a problem. I haven't found a video to address the issue of 3 out of 4 of my burners do not regulate the heat properly. Would 3 switches go bad or is there another 'master switch'?
That leads me to a question... did they all go bad at the same time?
They may have done. There are 3 smaller burners and one larger one. The big one works okay. Thanks for your response!@@TheHomeImprovementChannel
Not regulating heat properly means that all of them are getting power... I would maybe consider replacing one of the switches to see if the problem goes away before spending money for 3 of them...
You may notice some push-on connectors are very hard to pull off a mating tab because they might be the safety type with a very tiny push pin that needs to be depressed with a fingernail or small screwdriver before pulling connector for removal.
Yes, I know the ones your talking about, I don't believe these were like that.
What's the difference between an infinite switch and a surface element switch? When I looked for a replacement I see both options for my model, and they don't look alike. Thanks for your help!
HI.... I don't know what exactly is the difference, but the manufacturer for this stove calls it the infinite switch, so I'd get that one... 😊 There might be 2 different ones since this stove uses 2 large burners and 2 small. I'm not 100% sure on that, but it is something to make sure of when you order it.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Thanks - your video is such a huge help! I was able to see that the other item may be for a gas range, not electric even though it's under the same model #. In any event, yes, it's the infinite switch I need, thanks again! Keep up the great work, you're helping a lot of people!
@@ktpvb TYSM for the great feedback!
Yes don't get them mixed up two wires go to the burner and one is for your light one goes to another switch 👍🇨🇦
Yep.
I bought a whirlpool convection range and while the oven works great (so far), I have burned at least half of what I try and cook on the stove top. Just today a pot of beans scorched within 30 minutes of putting them on and the dial was set on low because I can't find a happy medium with the burners. It's either OFF or DEFCON 5 BOIL. I'm so disappointed in this. But I am going to order some infinite switch components and replace the burners and hope for the best.
Thank you for making this video!
It doesn't seem likely that all the infinite switches would go bad all at once? Or is it just one burner?
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel The two biggest burners seem to be the ones I cannot get to regulate temperature. The two smaller ones are fine so far. I've only had this range a month. I have ordered the two switches for those two burners. I'm reduced to using the microwave and as any good cook will tell you, it comes with a good deal of shame.
Oh nooo.. if it's only a month old, it should be under warranty. Better yet can you take it back?
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Since I bought it as a returned item, (it had been damaged on delivery and was returned), the warranty is void. I paid $500 for a $1200 range, and I'm starting to worry that it wasn't worth it. lol
I have a Westinghouse but will give it a shot, thanks for the video.
Good luck! You're welcome.. 😊
My glasstop store is having a element pro lem. The element stays on high all the time. Will I need to replace the element or the knobs. As you can tell I don't know much about the repair process so any help would be appreciated. By the way I'm a 70 year old grandma that can't afford a repair man so I'm going to try to do this myself.
I'm only guessing, but from your description it's the switches behind the knobs as I show in the video here. If your stove has more than one element and you have another element of the same size, (large to large or small to small switch) I would take the switch from the working one and swap it to the suspected position to confirm if that fixes it or not. Take a picture of the wiring before you take anything apart and be sure to not do this job while the stove is plugged in! This way you can confirm the problem without spending any $$...
I have a kenmore coil stove top and all 4 burners have runaway heat whether one 9 or 1. Does this still sound like 4 individual parts gone bad? Also the oven runs a little hot but is usable if you watch what you’re cooking closely. Top burners ... you can’t watch and cook on. Will burn every time.
I don't know how you're particular stove is wired. I think there's only the burner and the burner control. You might have a schematic in a envelope on the back of the stove. If you do, take a look at it and see if there's anything else listed there. If not, it's one or the other. I'd start with one control and see if it solves the problem for that single burner before you invest in all 4. As for the oven, i'm not sure if there's a way to calibrate the temp or not.
I have a strange problem on a Samsung Range (Tripple element). It will not work until all the other ovens are on. Then when it turns on it is stuck in high. I am not sure what is causing this.
HI, I'm not familiar with that particular problem. Have you tried to google the problem to see if anything pops up?
Thanks for that. My Maytag Glass top stove is doing the same thing.
I hope it's the same problem... 😀
Thanks for the quick response - let me re-phrase ..... would I be correct in thinking ALL FOUR controls are the SAME MODEL number ?
( I DO understand there are 4 separate controls .... LOL )
In other words, the bigger burner has the same model infinity control as the smaller burners ? Not a different model number,with a higher capacity ???Thank YOU again !
Sorry for the confusion. Yes, I believe they are different part numbers. You'll have to google your Stove model number to get the parts breakdown and then from there you can see which part number goes to the burner control you need.. hope that helps.. :-)
Hello. My burner heating but not enough to boil the water. Is this the same issue?
HI, is it only one burner? It could be the same issue, but I have a feeling the burner might be bad. I would take out one of the switches from another burner of the same size and swap it with the one in question and see if it does the same thing. If it does, the burner is probably bad.
You are the man! Thank you. 🙏
So glad I could help... 😊
Good video helped me understand my stove issues
Excellent! Thanks for the feedback..
I have a kenmore rang . Out coil is not working, inter coil is working. I have been charged switch, still out coil is not working, why?
Is the coil getting power? That's must have info.. Especially if you've already changed the switch.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel after i changed the switch, inter coil is working, out coil is not working, but when i switch wrie, out coil is working, inter coil is not working, what's wrong?
Do you happen to have a video on testing the switch? I'm curious if it is possible to confirm the switch is the problem on a burner that is at max heat while on, regardless of setting.
HI, I don't. I usually suggest to switch out the switch with one of the other burners of equal size. IF that burner is working properly on the other burner, it should as well when you switch it out if that's the problem. Now of course if there's something else wrong, you're running the risk of damaging the other switch that was previously good. Most likely you won't, but just wanted to tell you it's always possible.
Thanks for the video. I wonder if the double burner has the same 3149400 part. This is a WFE515S0EW0. So now I have the double burner and the big one next to it staying hot.
I seem to remember if the burner is the same size, it'll have the same switch... if it's a smaller size I do believe it's different.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel Thanks again. I'm going to check the back and see the numbers.
What’s the chance all four switches need to be replaced? Bought a new home and literally all of the burners are doing exactly what you described. I thought I needed a special type of cookware to use with these types of stoves
I've had other people with the same question. I just did a google search and the only thing I came up with was the single burner like I have in the video. I haven't had anyone come back with a resolution or outcome. I doubt all the burners went bad, but I guess it's possible. I'd have to see a schematic of the stove to see if the board is in common with all the burners..
Great video. Simple to follow. Well done!
Thank you so much... 😀
Would it be the same if the burner was turning on, and then would go off by itself? Thank you.
It's a possibility. I like to suggest if your stove has another burner that has a working switch to take that switch and swap it to the one in question to see if it solves the problem. Only do this from another burner of the same size, I believe the smaller ones are a different part number. Also take note of where all the wires went before you disconnect it.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you very much. I truly appreciate it. I'd do that. Have a good day.
You're welcome!
I have replaced that switch twice and the burner itself. It still stays on high! Any ideas?
Interesting problem. Do you have access to a wiring diagram for that one? I would look to see if there's anything else is in common with the burner. Is there a temp sensor that's possibly gone bad?
how do you know which one goes with which burner???
HI, they are labeled on the front of the stove... front left, front right, etc....
That's my exact type, model I'm having the issue with. Thanks!
Awesome! You're welcome.. 😀
Thanks for showing us how to get cheap Chinese Junk electronics replaced. All my burners were screwed!I hope the replacement was better
Ok
All four of my burners are flaking, which just started today. They will go to high, but when I turn the temperature down, they shut off. If it's all four, do I likely have a bigger problem?
That's a good question.. I am not sure how to answer that. Possibly look up the schematic for your stove and see what's in common with all 4. I'm thinking maybe the circuit board, but I'm guessing. Possibly one of the burners themselves is bad and it's affecting the other 3.. I've had this question pop up before and haven't come across the answer.
The knob on the oven vent side is the one that will go bad...Mine is a Frigidaire , vent is on the left...
That makes sense!
My whirlpool 5 burner glass cooktop has the largest element staying on high heat. Do you have a video on it or is it the same concept as this video?
I don't have a video on that particular one. It could be the same concept. I usually tell people to swap out the switch with another one from another burner of the same size, but since yours has only 1 largest one, I don't recommend that. Try to google that problem on the one you have and see if anything useful comes up.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you. Great advice
@@DiannaAtherton YW
how do you make it stay high every time you turn it on? lol I am looking for the other way around
There should be a indented spot when you set it to high.. this will keep the burner on pretty much all the time I believe.
What is the part number of the switch you replaced. Our stove is exactly like yours. And doing the same thing.
HI, the p/n is in the description.. Thanks.
Do we have a good place to get the parts from?
Amazon carries a lot of parts. Most towns also have an appliance repair shop that'll sell parts to the public.
What about the adjustment screw on the side of the switch? It adjust the bi-metal spring pressure, just don't know which way to turn the screw.
I don't know the answer to that one. Have you tried to google it?
Yup, no luck. I replaced mine per your instruction with success, thank you.
I've taken the old one apart. I'll clean the contacts then if the new one fails, I'll try adjusting it and pm you.
Again thanks!
@@Clunk49 Excellent! I hope it lasts a good while for ya... 😀
Our 12 year old Whirlpool Easy Clean range elements turn off and on when on " High " setting and breaker trips when oven and one element of any size is set to " High " .
Any tips what might be going on ?
Aww man.. that sounds hard. It almost sounds like a defective breaker or the wrong breaker, since you said the "oven and one element of any size". Is it a 40 amp breaker and the does the stove (as a whole) require a 50a? Do any of the elements turn off when on high? Doesn't matter which one? Could be the circuit board.. Realize I'm only stabbing in the dark.. I could be wrong..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel - the elements except for the small one have always started fine on high but cycle off and on .
Breaker is proper amperage for stove .
Thanks for the quick reply btw .
@@alvinforrest2674 That's a good one. I can't be sure without seeing it..
What is the name of the part there I need to order?
Infinite switch... I usually recommend before ordering the part, if you have a stove like this with 2 big and 2 small elements to take the switch from the other element of the same size and switch the switch to the one that isn't working right to see if the problem has gone away... Then you'll know for sure that's the right problem..
Is there an indication which back part corresponds to each burner? I have multiple burners that just work on high and will like to identify them .
Other than the part number, not sure. The best bet would be not to get them mixed up as you take it off the control panel.
My Tappan is doing the same exact thing but I changed the switch and it didn’t fix it. What else would cause this?
It's usually the switch... could be the burner, but I wouldn't go out and buy a burner. if the wires will reach, try disconnecting another burner if you have another one of the same exact size and specs, and connect it to the switch in question and see if it makes any difference. Obviously with the power off!
Does this part work if my stove won't shut off at all ? Just happened after cooking today ..unplugged the stove thanks
It's possible. Is it only one burner that won't shut off?
My question is... my whirlpool stove stock on heat on the front both big burner but the 2 on the back ( small burner) is working properly, I dont think is the both switch are the problem? Can you please help me to solve my problem, thank you...😊
Hmm.. Did this problem happen at exactly the same time? Or did one develop a problem, then later the other one? Do you have the model number I can try to look up the electrical diagram..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannelhello and thank you for your time to answer my question,its developed a problem and when you used at the first time in medium hot it working properly but when it's too hot then try to put in lower position its stock and did not on & off the burner... model# YWFE510S0AS0 Series: R44524966 thanks.
Ok since I only seen you replace one of these switches, I'm guessing they don't all need replaced, which brings up a question... I constantly use the large burner, so can I simply just change out the switches from one of other (smaller) burners that I never use??
Are all of these switches the same??
I actually think the smaller ones use a different part number. You can look up your model number and compare to see if the bigger one and smaller one use a different part number.
I tried swapping the switches around as they look identical and appear to all be wired the same... Looking at the schematic for this stove though, the smaller burners do have smaller wattage switches, so hooking one of the switches from a smaller burner to a larger burner will result in the larger burner probably not getting enough wattage.. With things hooked up this way large burner will never get hot enough to fry food or boil water correctly..
Yes that's what I thought... but I think what would happen is not necessarily that the large burner wouldn't get hot enough. But I think it would burn out the switch pretty quickly with the smaller rating..
I have three burners that go crazy,I wonder if I have to replace three before my wife burns everything we have in the refrigerator and pantry.
Did they all go bad at once?
Thank u so much big help.. I have a kenmore at home doing the exact same thing
You are so welcome!
Before you run out and buy expensive parts that are hard to find. Try flipping the breaker for 30 seconds and reboot. It fixed mine.
Actually the parts are in the $20 range! But yes I did try that ... No joy. 😊
Thanks. My Dad's stove does the same thing. Now I know to get an infinite switch (thanks to 1st comment that gave name of part and your video). 🤓
Glad I could help!
I have the same going on noticed the front burner. Where can I order the part? What is it called? Infinity switch?
I think Amazon or eBay has these.. yes infinity switch.
So what if both front eyes are doing this does that mean both switches went out at the same time?
I have my doubts they both went bad at the same time... Not saying it's not possible, but what are the odds!? As to what to do next, if you had a wiring diagram you should be able to troubleshoot the switch and verify that's the problem before investing money in a new one.
Hi! Looking for help with my whirlpool stove/oven!
Suddenly my cooktop burners will heat and sudden go very low and not heat back up or at all. It does say "cooktop on" but nothing will be cooking. Oven is doing the same, heating to about 200-215 and then stopping.
Sometimes I can turn the cooktop off and slowly turn it back on and it it will heat properly, as well as turning the oven off and back on and it will heat properly.
Any help is appreciated!!
HI, to me it sounds like a control board problem. It sounds like the problem is in common with everything, including the oven. I'm only just guessing. I'm not actually a professional appliance repair person, so some of these problems I haven't seen before. I'd have to see a schematic to see if the control board is in common with the other components..
I have a glass top GE stove that is about 4 years old. It has always cooked very hot. The burners seem to respond to being turned down, but it's either a full on boil or nothing. Do you know, are these glass top stoves just really hot cookers?
They shouldn't be. Full on boil or nothing is definitely not normal..
i have a jenn air JES9750AAA and the front electric burner ran on full hot and was not controllable. i replaced the infinite switch with W1120791. the burner is now controllable when it is on by itself, but when i turn the back burner on at the same time the front burner is on, the front burner is now uncontrollable again. the back burner and front burner work perfect and are controllable when on by themselves and the back burner works perfect even when the front burner is on, but the front burner only works perfect when it is on by itself. can you please give me ideas/suggestions? thanks!
Hi, I was trying to locate a service manual/ schematic of your unit, but I didn't have any luck. Do you have the wiring diagram? Sometimes it's attached to the back of the unit..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you for the reply. i was given this solution: The original infinite switch was providing the constant power to the burner through the H1 terminal, and the H2 terminal was controlling the temperature by clicking on/off. The new switch W11120791 has the H1 terminal as the temperature control, and the H2 ("Hc" - new standard) is the constant power. So for both burners to work properly, you need to install either 2 original switches or 2 new updated switches, and the wires going to the H1 and Hc terminals need to be swapped around on each infinite switch.
Yes that makes perfect sense. That's why I was looking for the wiring diagram, that should be visible on there..
How generic are these switches? Do I need a specific part number or are they pretty standardized?
No, you need a specific part number. Google your model number and the infinity switch or temp control switch and it should bring something up..
Check out Partselect.com. You can get pretty much any part available.
@@GeorgeSawtooth Great tip! Thank you. I'll check it out.. 🙂
I’m having a similar problem if o e if the burner stays on high when turned on is it usually this element you replaced or is possible due to the heating element, where do you get the part you replaced on this video
HI, it could be either one.. I got the part from Amazon. It's called an infinite switch. If you have the time, I usually recommend to change out the switch with one of the other burners of the same size and try it in the place of the suspected switch. Then you'll know for sure without buying one. Just make sure not to leave the wiring for the switch you took out dangling where they can short together or against any metal parts of the oven...
Thank you for your help, where can I buy the parts to stove?
Maria Judy Alvarez Amazon or eBay are good places to get those
How can I know if it’s the burner or knob switch?
@@mariajudyalvarez4069 It's more than likely the burner switch, but if in doubt, you can transfer one of the good burner controls into the spot where the problem is and see if it takes care of the problem.
How does the switch know when the temperature is reached
Good question. I believe some stoves have a temp sensor in the element. But if it doesn't, I believe the element will change resistance when it heats up and the switch senses this and converts the resistance to a temp value. I am actually guessing though.
How is your stove working now?
I have since sold that stove, but it worked great for quite a long time after I did this repair. It was still working great as of March
DIY on my GE range the large burner comes on for only a few seconds, what could be the problem? also the hot surface indicator stays on all the time.
HI, I found this article ... Looks like you might have a bad burner. This will explain how to check and see which one it is.. (probably the one that keeps cutting off) www.appliancepartspros.com/diy-story-hot-cooktop-light-stays-time-diy2487403.html
Hope this helps you. Thanks.
Is it the same part for all burners? I hardly use all four of them at the same time and was thinking to swap the bad one with one I dont use often
I think the little burners used a different part if I remember right.... But I'm not 100% sure on that.
Wonder full advice!! I fixed it myself. Thanks
Awesome! 😁😁😁
I see a blue switch and a white/yellow switch. Can I replace with 2 new whites? Does the type of switch matter? I have a whirlpool too
I think if the switch goes to another larger burner, those would be interchangeable.. as well as the ones that go to the smaller burners... I don't remember if you can change the smaller burners with the larger burners.. I seem to remember those were different, but I could be wrong.
Thanks a lot great video, it worked for me. Appreciate it 👍
Excellent! Glad I could help.. 😀
Here's a question - do all 4 burners use the SAME infinity heat control device ? My smooth glass top stove has 2 - 6 inch burners, 1 - 8 inch, and a larger one - looks like a 10 inch. What needs my immediate attention is the 8 -inch - but I just want to be sure there aren't different versions for the different burner sizes - Thanks for an excellent video, by-the-way !!
HI, as far as I can tell, each burner has it's own independent control... Thanks for the comment.. :-)
Different part number for large and small burners
My stov not controlling temperature…. How to fix?
HI, without being able to see it and troubleshoot it that would be very difficult to say...
I have this same.problem but last weekend i turned it on and it came on but then the burner completely died. Do i need to replace the switch, the burner, or both?
HI... There is a possibility the burner element shorted and then it took out the switch. A lot of times I recommend to move a switch from another burner that's the same size and put the switch in the place of the bad one to see if the problem goes away.... Trouble is, if the burner has shorted out, it will take out another switch! You might look for an electrical diagram for your particular model so you can test to see what is what. IF you're not comfortable working with 240VAC then I don't recommend that at all! You can probably ohm out the burner to see if it matches another one of the same size. You can do that with the power off to see if the burner went bad.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel before it went out there would always be a popping sound of electricity coming from the switch when it would connect to the burner did the one in your video ever do that
Is there a different part numer for the other 3, or will 3149400 replace the other big burner, and the 2 small one's.
I don't remember for sure. If I remember right the two larger ones use the same part and the two smaller ones use their same part number.. If you have your model number, you can google the parts breakdown and you should be able to get the P/N that way..
Do you think this switch also causing the breaker to blow .or it’s somewhere else .?
I doubt if that switch would cause that. The stove breaker is usually 40-50 amps. It would probably melt with that kind of power going through it! When does it blow? When you turn on a certain stove element?.. when it's plugged in? For example if it only blows when you turn on the burner on the front right,.. but works for anything else, I'd be looking at stuff associated with that burner... and so on..
Yes it blew the breaker when turn on switch towards the front element .I will open the burner and check the burner for short to ground .is it possible also that the switch can be shorted inside the switch contact ?where is the common short to ground in whirlpool brand .
I'd have to see a wiring diagram for that. I can't say for sure. I would disconnect the burner and make sure the wire for the burner is insulated and try again with it disconnected. Then you'll be able to see if it's the burner if the problem is gone. With an ohm meter, the burner will probably read 8-10 ohms (just a guess), if its reading 1 or 2 ohms, then I'd say that's a problem.
you're not explaining WHAT PART it is? what is the part that causes this? I have a cooktop Whirlpool that is doing the same thing, I have had 2 so far and ALL do it. How do we fix cooktop style ones? I don't have the stove version.
I explained it! I replaced the switch that controls that burner. It's called the infinite switch. At least that's what Whirlpool calls it. It could be the same problem on the cooktop. If you can get to it, I would recommend changing out the switch for one that's in another position and see if it cures the problem. I would only do that if the other burner that you want to take the switch from is of the same size and type of the one that is faulty. I believe they use a different part number. Of course I would disconnect the power before you try anything like that.. 😀
Does this work for burners that won't come on at all?
Possibly... I would do some further troubleshooting to see if power is making it to the switch and then it's not leaving.. A lot of times a stove will have the wiring diagram.. or a simple way would be if you have a burner of the same size that's working properly, you can use the switch from that one and switch it with the one that's not working and see if it solves the problem.
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel thank you, I'll try it!
Just make sure if you swap the switch to use one from a burner of the same size. If I remember right, the ones for the smaller burner use a different part number.. :-)
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel you bet!
What do I do if multiple burners are doing the same thing
HI, It seems unusual that there would be more than one switches that would fail at the same time... or did they?
If it’s all the burners do I replace all 4 or is the 1 switch for all 4
No, there could be something in common with all 4 burners. I doubt if they would all 4 go bad at the same time. Is there a wiring diagram with the stove? Or try to google your model number and that problem and see if anything pops up..
Thx a bunch your advice worked save me $1100 bucks told my wife to cancel the stove lol
@@mikewallace3232 That's awesome! Glad you got it going again.. 🙂
@@mikewallace3232 Excellent! You're welcome.. 🙂
Great video. Super helpful. I was going to trash 🗑️ my stove. What was the part number?
I don't know the part number. The best thing to do it find your model number. Probably on a sticker inside the door and google the model number and look up the infinite switch to make sure you get the right one. Make sure and pay attention to large burner / small burner. I think they are different.
Hopefully you'll see this comment. How will I know if the problem I'm having is the coil or the regulator? I'm going to assume that since the coil works it just stays on high when I set it on low that it's probably the regulator...any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the reply!!!
It probably is the regulator switch, but I do suggest that if your stove is like this one with 2 big and 2 small elements, take the switch from the other working element (of the same size) and swap it to the one in question. Making sure to disconnect power and take pictures of the wiring or write down the wiring so there's no chance of a mix up... Hope that helps.. 😀
Rudy, what do I do with an oven that won't come up to the desired temperature?
I'm assuming the heating element is glowing red hot when it's on? If so, there should be a thermostat inside the oven somewhere probably towards the back that could be the problem..
@@TheHomeImprovementChannel I'll give a look. Thanks!
Thank you for the video it was excellent! Question, I have a Whirlpool electric smooth cooktop. Do you think the same fix would apply?
After seeing all the comments from people who have the same problem, I am thinking of switching to a gas powered cooktop. Do you have any opinion on these?
It "could" be the same problem. I aways tell people to use one of the other switches (from the same size burner) and switch it out with the suspected one.. then you'll know if it's fixed then that's the problem. Gas is great, but if you haven't already run a gas line, it can be quite a project.
Thank you, however my electric range burner functions erratically. But this could be a similar problem. I will buy the part. Nonetheless, the switch you had in your hand is called a range surface element control switch.
Yes its a good possibility that's what's wrong with yours. One thing I always recommend is if you have another burner of the same size as the one that's acting up, you can swap out the control switch with the one that works properly to see if the problem is gone, then you'll know before spending any money. Thanks...