@@boldackalack_4864 Thanks for watching. If the stove uses 4 separate heat switches then it is very unlikely for all 4 switches to have failed all at once. The only scenario that it might happen is if a range has a control board that is connected to the oven and stove. In this case a faulty control board would effect all 4 elements.
I actually had the same issue. after removing the switch, I took apart the plastic case for the switch (just needed a flathead screw driver) I then sprayed the internal with mass airflow sensor cleaner. Electrical cleaner would work as well. I clipped it all back together and it worked!!! Hope this helps.
You're welcome Donna! We're glad that the video helped you out. Many of these repairs are simple once you break it down into smaller chunks, its just hard to know until you see it taken apart at-least once. Cheers!
After a certain age, westinghouse models 143 or 509 or similar, keep destroying the large spiral's heat controller switch/thermostat. I wondered if you came upon this problem, it must be a fault in the bottom part of the wiring. Last switch replacement only lasted 5-6 months before overheating again. It also seems that the model devolved due to problems; #1 digital clock with oven timer #2 digital clock, timer present but disconnected (button omitted), #3 mechanical timer, no digital clock, no oven timer ??? I truly look forward to the next model of this stove.
Thankyou for the informative video, can I ask a quick question? If all four burners are giving full heat when placed on the lowest settings, which diagnosis is more likely? The switch replacement or the burner replacement? Thankyou for help!
Hi Julian, thank you for watching! Is this a hypothetical question or do you have a stove that have 4 burners that are staying on high? Overall that is a highly unlikely scenario for all 4 burners to have either a shorted element or a faulty heat switch. If you did have a stove that the burners were hooked up to the control board (instead of independent heat switches) then it could be an issue with the control board.
@@AmreSupply @AMRE Supply I don't know if my reply went through. Sorry for the confusion, it is not a hypothetical situation. My parent's oven currently has this issue. Thankyou for the information regarding the control board.
Great!... I will check as you discussed. QUESTIONS: I have a fairly new stove, a 3-4 years old. Both front large burners are doing this. The smaller back burners are not. Is this issue more prevalent for the larger burners? Does the fact that this issue is with BOTH large burners; front right and front left, mean there something else to check? Are they electrically connected somehow, or is there a component to check that controls/links the large burners? thank you
Thanks for watching. If you have a ceramic cooktop it is possible that something is touching the wire connectors on the elements. This video shows how to access the burners. Look to make sure there is enough clearance around all of the terminals. ruclips.net/video/CXhmlswg30Y/видео.html
Thanks for watching. It is unlikely for both switches to fail at once. There could be a short to ground and depending on how it is wired one wire might feed the left burners and another wire might feed the right side. You can still do the checks as outlined in this video.
How to test a dual element to see if it is shorted? My dual element burner stays on high heat regardless of how we adjust the knob. I tested the switch and it seems to be working properly. The switch and wires are different than the one in this video.
Thanks for watching. You can see an explanation of the terminals in this video. ruclips.net/video/GaW7uAHkPQI/видео.html You can still test for a short at the back. You'll just have an additional wire to test. Just remember that the switch might be faulty even if it passes the continuity test. At rest, it is difficult to test to see if the metal inside the switch is not releasing properly from the contacts. This is a single switch but you can see more on the inside of the switch here: ruclips.net/user/shortsURFjJPQycsk
@@AmreSupply are we looking for a specific resistance reading for continuity using the wires to test for a short of the element ? I'm getting about 43 on 4 and 38 on 4a.
@@seanm2216 If you are testing for a short looking at the resistance for the wire connected to terminal 4 and the metal frame, then a resistance of 43 or 38 ohms means its shorted. There should be no continuity reading or - - - - - or OL on the multimeter. If you test the terminals directly at the element you'll likely get a similar reading. If that's the case then replace the element. If the element does not show the same reading, then check the wires to see if they are damaged or if the wire terminals are touching anything.
@@AmreSupply Thank you! I tested each wire (2,4,4a) to frame and got no continuity. When I tested the wires to see if the element was shorted (i.e. Wire that goes to 2 and wire that goes to 4 and 4a), that is where I got the reading of around 40 on each. I opened the switch and didn't see any fusing. So I hope it is just the switch.
Thanks for watching. Does your stove have individual heat switches (dials) for each burner? Or does the control board have push buttons for the stove controls?
we have a newer whirlpool range that 's only a few years old and looks exactly like the one shown except black in color. for about a year now we can't control the heat of the burners on lower to mid settings, they go more to high heat. why would they all act like this for such a new unit?
Thanks for watching. If your stove has separate heat switches for all burners, it is unlikely that they would all wear out in the same way and only after a few years of use. At the lower heat settings you still should notice the elements glowing on and off but they should turn on less frequently than on high. Some pans (like teflon / aluminium) are more sensitive to changes in heat. Using carbon steel or cast iron will help even out the heat and make it that it maintains more even cooking. As well the amount of heat will be different for smaller sized pans and smaller amount of food. This is why there is no 1 setting that can be recommended it all depends on these factors. If you have a model that has stove elements controlled by buttons on the display panel, then a faulty control board could cause these problems.
So none of my switches have anything connected to the H1 terminal. All the other burners work just fine. Should I be concerned by this wiring situation? I think I might have an older model
Thanks for watching. There is some variation between how switches are wired and how the terminals are named. For a basic heating element the switch should have 2 input terminals and 2 output terminals for the element. There should also be one terminal for the cooktop indicator light.
I have the same problem but with my oven( not stove top) I had just replaced the element inside the oven and then about a week later as I was cooking a pizza not even 10 minutes into cooking I smelled something burning went into the kitchen and smoke was coming out the oven. The pizza was burnt to a crisp. The same thing happen again cooking some else. I finally figure out that no matter what temp the oven was on it was always on high and not turning off, until I turned it off. Could this problem be the temp sensor or could this come from the newly replaced baking element. Thanks in advance
Thanks for watching. You mentioned that you replaced the baking (bottom) element. For most ovens the bake is used 80% of the time and the top broil element is used 20% of the time. A shorted broil element might stay on and would cause the temperature to be too high. Also best to test the temperature sensor. You can see more in this video: ruclips.net/video/10ezc3LNQP4/видео.html
Tried testing resistance, but kept getting 1 all the way to the left on the indicator. I am guessing this is just the infinite that shows when no connection is established, I tried all of the back metal portions of the stove. Is no continuity the same as an infinite number? If I put the 2 probes simultaneously into H1 and H2 I do get a number so the ohm meter works.
Thanks for watching. No continuity is the same as infinite resistance or an open circuit. When you have the multimeter probes disconnected it will show a blank display, or - - - - - -, or in some models it will show OL (open loop). If the multimeter shows just a 1 and not 1.0 or 1.00 etc then that might be the indication of the infinite resistance. You can always check the manual for your multimeter for more details.
I have a stove with a similar issue. About a year and half ago, a tenant complained that the lower right element would turn red hot on the lowest setting. I replaced the heat switch behind the stove and it worked. Fast forward 2022, she’s complaining that it’s getting to hot compared to the others. But it doesn’t turn red hot. Could it be that the element itself is malfunctioning, or could it be that the other 3 elements have faulty heat switches , and they need to be replaced? I opened up the back, the one I replace looks brand new, other 3 look burnt
Thanks for watching. Heating elements generally either fail completely or they work. If they have continuity a heating element won't ever be "weak". Since you put a new switch, it is possible that the switch is hotter at the same "number" setting on the stove. These are not precise heat settings as the elements simply cycle on and off. The stove switch uses a bi-metallic switch that heats up and bends to disconnect the circuit. You can learn more in this short 1 minute video: ruclips.net/video/URFjJPQycsk/видео.html If the other 3 burners work, but they don't seem as hot as the burner with the new heat switch, then the 3 heat switches have likely aged at the same rate. The metal inside the switches is likely fatigued and is quicker to bend and disconnect the circuit. This means that the heating element will get less cycles of heat. If needed, you could replace all 3 switches and that will likely make them work the same as the new switch. The heat settings that your tenant is used to might not be the same after the update.
My electric stove isn't even a year old, was working fine up till a week ago then anything I cook in the oven comes out grease. Office manager reset the temp and still doing it any advice?
Thanks for watching. Can you clarify: Do you mean that anything you cook in the oven gets burnt as the temperature is too high? Or do you mean that there is grease coming out of somewhere when you use the oven?
@@GhostTacos1975 If the oven temperature is hotter than normal then you can calibrate it up or down 30°F ruclips.net/video/s8UdnR4Jw_g/видео.html You'll need to observe the temperature and get the average over time. Now if the temperature is significantly off, then it could be a faulty temperature sensor: ruclips.net/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/видео.html
@@AmreSupply I adjusted the oven temp and it still does it, I tried something different last night. I put the pizza in the oven right away the pizza was done before the oven was done preheating
@@GhostTacos1975 Using an oven thermometer, check the temperature at several different times during a bake cycle. If it is more than 30°F off then the temperature sensor is likely faulty: ruclips.net/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/видео.html
Thank you for watching. If you have a ceramic / glass stove top then the troubleshooting steps are the same. If you need to access the element you can see this in this video: ruclips.net/video/XQ30epA84bQ/видео.html
Thanks for watching. If you replaced the switch and the heating element still stays on high, then it's likely a faulty/ shorted heating element. Replacing the element might help but it's still good to check all the connections to make sure nothing can cause a short. In a coiled stove, installing a new receptacle can also help. Now just to clarify, after installing a new switch and if the wires are installed correctly, the element should not heat up when the switch is turned off.
somebody is shipping parts that do not meet electrical safety standards and this is causing a serious hazzard we junked one range for this already and now we've had to repair our new one somebody need to get called on the carpet
Thanks for watching. There are many 3rd party marketplaces and sellers which don't always guarantee quality. If you have come across someone selling counterfeit or low quality / unsafe components, then its best to report that to the company, or to a consumer protection association.
@@AmreSupply I've had to fix 2 now; both my kitchen; both ranges purchased new. these overheated burners are a hazzard and there is likely a need for a class-action legal action
Thanks for watching. One technique for sliding the range in and out is to use cardboard. If you tilt the range slightly there should be enough space to place some cardboard under the feet. If you can only get it on the from two feet then just keep pressure slightly on the front two feel while sliding it out.
My 'small burner-large burner' rocker switch on my Spectra electric range went out. I removed it and it reads 4 amp 250VAC and 8 amp 125VAC - 2 prong.
My question is all I find online for the replacement for that 14 y.o switch is 8 amp 250VAC and 12 amp 125VAC....Is that 'OK' or will it burn out something??
Thanks for watching. The ratings will refer to the maximum that the switch can handle. In this case using a higher rated switch will work and not create issues as nothing else in the circuit is different.
The apartment I live in. They're trying to say it's user error that there's nothing wrong with the stove after turning the burners on for like 30 seconds and them back off. Oh, it works. It's you, not the stove. Pisses me off! I've been cooking on electric ranges for nearly 50 yrs, I know when one isn't working right.
Thanks for watching. That is frustrating but it is easy to demonstrate if they are willing to listen. What you could do is you could put a pot of water on one of the good burners of the same size. Film it and see how long it takes to boil 2 cups of water at a low heat setting. Then film the dysfunctional burner at the same setting with 2 cups of water. There should be a clear difference between the two and it would be difficult to dismiss this as user error. If the contacts in the switch are stuck and the burner is staying on high, then water will boil much faster.
Thanks for watching. If one burner stays on high but you're able to shut off the burner (and the burner is completely cool) then it's not a problem. Until the burner is fixed you should be able to just use the other burners without issue. Now if the burner doesn't shut off even when the switch is turned off, then its best to unplug the stove or shut off power at the breaker.
Thanks for watching. If you've replace the heat switch and the stove still stays on high, then it could be a shorted heating element, a problem with the receptacle or the wires.
Thanks for watching. If the metal stove top is warped from the oven's heat then it could still be ok to cook on. If it looks like all the stove components are not damaged, and any pots or pans still sit level, then it's likely still good to cook on.
Thanks for watching. If the stove element still turns off correctly when the dial is set to the off position, then there is no need to do anything. If it doesn't turn off correctly, you can always disconnect the wires to the heat switch as this will prevent it from receiving any power.
I bought an Infinite switch from AmResupply on June 2017 and replaced it. Do these parts have warranty? The conventional electric coil didn't overheat like it did before after the fix, but got hot over a few months. Now in 2021 it is overheating again. This time, I want to test for a short first. Can I test for resistance or continuity at the coil using a multimeter rather than from the back panel?
Thanks for watching, and we appreciate your support. Electrical parts don't come with the same sorts of warranty as mechanical parts. I am not familiar with the exact policy but this is something that you can check with the customer care team. There's a couple ways of narrowing down this problem. You could swap this infinite heat switch with the adjacent one. If the switch was the problem you would see the next burner show the same issue stay on high and overheat. The original burner would then start working like normal. If swapping the heat switch doesn't change the problem, then it's likely a short. You can test the element for a short directly. You would test for continuity between one terminal and the outside or frame of the element. Then do the same for the 2nd terminal. There should be no continuity and no resistance reading in either case. If the heat switch is not the problem and the element seems good then it could be an issue with the wires or receptacle. Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply I tested the element for a short with my auto-ranging multimeter. There is no continuity between the element terminal and the element coils. i changed the setting to resistance it is the same thing. I probed the other terminal and other coils. The only continuity that was found was between the two terminals.
@@winstondang5966 It's good to eliminate the element as a potential source. You can also swap the element with the same size element from the other side. If the element was the issue then the problem would move to the other burner. You can still test for a short through the back wires, as well as swap the heat switch to try to isolate the problem.
My electric ceramic stove burner overheats after awhile on anything but low. Low it usually stays low. So I either have a bad switch or need to change out filament or whatever it’s called to replace heating element. Fortunately it’s only one element overheating. I have the tools so I will be testing it out. What’s your take?
Hi Eric, thanks for watching. It's likely the switch. These heat switches use a bi-metallic strip which can warp over time. If you're curious you can see inside one of the switches here: ruclips.net/user/shortsURFjJPQycsk
@@AmreSupply thanks for reply. Other sites said the same. We have a 6 yr old new home but the worse purchase ever in construction and non stop power outages from a drop of rain or perfect sunny day. Looking to move. Power outage probably burnt out switch or motherboard but doubt it since only one burner act up. This burner been this way after 3rd yr.
@@ericb2861 You are right that is unlikely that the control board is burnt out if this problem is happening with only 1 burner. In these sorts of models, the control board does not supply power to the stove. Replacing the heat switch as this will likely fix the issue.
@@AmreSupply I may just buy the switch. We cool a lot. Still probably smart to double check when I do have a multi meter. Thanks for all you guys replies
Thanks for watching. If the stove uses 4 separate heat switches then it is very unlikely for all 4 switches to have failed all at once. The only scenario that it might happen is if a range has a control board that is connected to the oven and stove. In this case a faulty control board would effect all 4 elements.
@@AmreSupply sorry so one element stayed on high first then the others slowly started doing the same . So would that most likely be the elements or the switches?
@@boldackalack_4864 It's most likely the switches are becoming faulty. These switches use bimetallic strips that bend when current passes through the strips. The metal can become fatigued overtime which can cause the element to stay on high. If you're curious here's a 1 minute video showing the inside of the switch: ruclips.net/user/shortsURFjJPQycsk Here's the video that shows how to install new heat switches: ruclips.net/video/JKrrOflS1RM/видео.html
Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!
Yeh, this video did help me to fix the problem.
Thanks.
What if all elements are staying on high ?
@@boldackalack_4864 Thanks for watching. If the stove uses 4 separate heat switches then it is very unlikely for all 4 switches to have failed all at once. The only scenario that it might happen is if a range has a control board that is connected to the oven and stove. In this case a faulty control board would effect all 4 elements.
@@muhammadtahirsiddiqui8347 We're the video helped you! Sorry we're just seeing this comment now!
Haven't tried it yet
I actually had the same issue. after removing the switch, I took apart the plastic case for the switch (just needed a flathead screw driver) I then sprayed the internal with mass airflow sensor cleaner. Electrical cleaner would work as well. I clipped it all back together and it worked!!! Hope this helps.
Thanks for sharing your experience, we're glad you got it working again!
Thank-you so much! This fix was a lot simpler than I thought, glad I did not have to call in a service company
You're welcome Donna! We're glad that the video helped you out. Many of these repairs are simple once you break it down into smaller chunks, its just hard to know until you see it taken apart at-least once. Cheers!
I needed an undestanding on how stoves work!! this just what i needed to complete a service request!! Thank you!!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Thanks so much for this video! Your instructions made it easy to diagnose the issue and swap out the faulty switch. Greatly appreciated!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help! We're currently working on a series on refrigerator repairs in this same style and quality so stay tuned!
Your video made it very easy to understand and replace my part. Thanks.
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
Good video, but simple to just swap burners to see if problem moves
Thanks for watching. That is one way to see but if you have a ceramic stove then you'll need to test the heat switches individually.
Super helpful! Thank you!
You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
After a certain age, westinghouse models 143 or 509 or similar, keep destroying the large spiral's heat controller switch/thermostat.
I wondered if you came upon this problem, it must be a fault in the bottom part of the wiring. Last switch replacement only lasted 5-6 months before overheating again.
It also seems that the model devolved due to problems; #1 digital clock with oven timer #2 digital clock, timer present but disconnected (button omitted), #3 mechanical timer, no digital clock, no oven timer ???
I truly look forward to the next model of this stove.
Thanks for sharing your experience! As for Westinghouse that is not a brand / model that I am as familiar with.
Thankyou for the informative video, can I ask a quick question?
If all four burners are giving full heat when placed on the lowest settings, which diagnosis is more likely? The switch replacement or the burner replacement? Thankyou for help!
Hi Julian, thank you for watching! Is this a hypothetical question or do you have a stove that have 4 burners that are staying on high? Overall that is a highly unlikely scenario for all 4 burners to have either a shorted element or a faulty heat switch. If you did have a stove that the burners were hooked up to the control board (instead of independent heat switches) then it could be an issue with the control board.
@@AmreSupply @AMRE Supply I don't know if my reply went through.
Sorry for the confusion, it is not a hypothetical situation. My parent's oven currently has this issue.
Thankyou for the information regarding the control board.
Great!... I will check as you discussed.
QUESTIONS: I have a fairly new stove, a 3-4 years old. Both front large burners are doing this. The smaller back burners are not. Is this issue more prevalent for the larger burners? Does the fact that this issue is with BOTH large burners; front right and front left, mean there something else to check? Are they electrically connected somehow, or is there a component to check that controls/links the large burners? thank you
Thanks for watching. If you have a ceramic cooktop it is possible that something is touching the wire connectors on the elements. This video shows how to access the burners. Look to make sure there is enough clearance around all of the terminals. ruclips.net/video/CXhmlswg30Y/видео.html
@@AmreSupply wow, that is nice of you to respond so quickly! I will take a look at this video too. thank you.
@@dgodrummer8110 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!
What would cause both left side burners to only work on high burners have not been used very often but there be a fuse running that part
Thanks for watching. It is unlikely for both switches to fail at once. There could be a short to ground and depending on how it is wired one wire might feed the left burners and another wire might feed the right side. You can still do the checks as outlined in this video.
Thanks for the video I did my check but noticed my switch had a bit of charring and discolouring on the terminals.
Thanks for watching. Yes charred terminals is a sign that the switch is faulty, so it is often best to replace it.
@@AmreSupply I replaced my switch and the burner stayed on continually. Could it be a bad switch? Or do you think it’s something else
How to test a dual element to see if it is shorted? My dual element burner stays on high heat regardless of how we adjust the knob. I tested the switch and it seems to be working properly. The switch and wires are different than the one in this video.
Thanks for watching. You can see an explanation of the terminals in this video. ruclips.net/video/GaW7uAHkPQI/видео.html
You can still test for a short at the back. You'll just have an additional wire to test.
Just remember that the switch might be faulty even if it passes the continuity test. At rest, it is difficult to test to see if the metal inside the switch is not releasing properly from the contacts. This is a single switch but you can see more on the inside of the switch here: ruclips.net/user/shortsURFjJPQycsk
@@AmreSupply thank you! I will check this out.
@@AmreSupply are we looking for a specific resistance reading for continuity using the wires to test for a short of the element ? I'm getting about 43 on 4 and 38 on 4a.
@@seanm2216 If you are testing for a short looking at the resistance for the wire connected to terminal 4 and the metal frame, then a resistance of 43 or 38 ohms means its shorted. There should be no continuity reading or - - - - - or OL on the multimeter.
If you test the terminals directly at the element you'll likely get a similar reading. If that's the case then replace the element.
If the element does not show the same reading, then check the wires to see if they are damaged or if the wire terminals are touching anything.
@@AmreSupply Thank you! I tested each wire (2,4,4a) to frame and got no continuity. When I tested the wires to see if the element was shorted (i.e. Wire that goes to 2 and wire that goes to 4 and 4a), that is where I got the reading of around 40 on each. I opened the switch and didn't see any fusing. So I hope it is just the switch.
What would cause an issue where all four burners were staying on High (red hot) when set on only 2 or 3.
This is a Kenmore ceramic stove top
Thanks for watching. Does your stove have individual heat switches (dials) for each burner? Or does the control board have push buttons for the stove controls?
we have a newer whirlpool range that 's only a few years old and looks exactly like the one shown except black in color. for about a year now we can't control the heat of the burners on lower to mid settings, they go more to high heat. why would they all act like this for such a new unit?
Thanks for watching. If your stove has separate heat switches for all burners, it is unlikely that they would all wear out in the same way and only after a few years of use.
At the lower heat settings you still should notice the elements glowing on and off but they should turn on less frequently than on high.
Some pans (like teflon / aluminium) are more sensitive to changes in heat. Using carbon steel or cast iron will help even out the heat and make it that it maintains more even cooking.
As well the amount of heat will be different for smaller sized pans and smaller amount of food. This is why there is no 1 setting that can be recommended it all depends on these factors.
If you have a model that has stove elements controlled by buttons on the display panel, then a faulty control board could cause these problems.
So none of my switches have anything connected to the H1 terminal. All the other burners work just fine. Should I be concerned by this wiring situation? I think I might have an older model
Thanks for watching. There is some variation between how switches are wired and how the terminals are named. For a basic heating element the switch should have 2 input terminals and 2 output terminals for the element. There should also be one terminal for the cooktop indicator light.
Thanks 😊
You're welcome!
I have the same problem but with my oven( not stove top) I had just replaced the element inside the oven and then about a week later as I was cooking a pizza not even 10 minutes into cooking I smelled something burning went into the kitchen and smoke was coming out the oven. The pizza was burnt to a crisp. The same thing happen again cooking some else. I finally figure out that no matter what temp the oven was on it was always on high and not turning off, until I turned it off. Could this problem be the temp sensor or could this come from the newly replaced baking element. Thanks in advance
Thanks for watching. You mentioned that you replaced the baking (bottom) element. For most ovens the bake is used 80% of the time and the top broil element is used 20% of the time. A shorted broil element might stay on and would cause the temperature to be too high.
Also best to test the temperature sensor. You can see more in this video: ruclips.net/video/10ezc3LNQP4/видео.html
Good work
Thank you!
Tried testing resistance, but kept getting 1 all the way to the left on the indicator. I am guessing this is just the infinite that shows when no connection is established, I tried all of the back metal portions of the stove. Is no continuity the same as an infinite number? If I put the 2 probes simultaneously into H1 and H2 I do get a number so the ohm meter works.
Thanks for watching. No continuity is the same as infinite resistance or an open circuit. When you have the multimeter probes disconnected it will show a blank display, or - - - - - -, or in some models it will show OL (open loop). If the multimeter shows just a 1 and not 1.0 or 1.00 etc then that might be the indication of the infinite resistance. You can always check the manual for your multimeter for more details.
@@AmreSupply Thank you for the reply.
@@dimkacracker You're welcome!
I have a stove with a similar issue. About a year and half ago, a tenant complained that the lower right element would turn red hot on the lowest setting. I replaced the heat switch behind the stove and it worked. Fast forward 2022, she’s complaining that it’s getting to hot compared to the others. But it doesn’t turn red hot. Could it be that the element itself is malfunctioning, or could it be that the other 3 elements have faulty heat switches , and they need to be replaced? I opened up the back, the one I replace looks brand new, other 3 look burnt
Thanks for watching. Heating elements generally either fail completely or they work. If they have continuity a heating element won't ever be "weak".
Since you put a new switch, it is possible that the switch is hotter at the same "number" setting on the stove. These are not precise heat settings as the elements simply cycle on and off.
The stove switch uses a bi-metallic switch that heats up and bends to disconnect the circuit. You can learn more in this short 1 minute video: ruclips.net/video/URFjJPQycsk/видео.html
If the other 3 burners work, but they don't seem as hot as the burner with the new heat switch, then the 3 heat switches have likely aged at the same rate. The metal inside the switches is likely fatigued and is quicker to bend and disconnect the circuit. This means that the heating element will get less cycles of heat.
If needed, you could replace all 3 switches and that will likely make them work the same as the new switch. The heat settings that your tenant is used to might not be the same after the update.
My electric stove isn't even a year old, was working fine up till a week ago then anything I cook in the oven comes out grease. Office manager reset the temp and still doing it any advice?
Thanks for watching. Can you clarify:
Do you mean that anything you cook in the oven gets burnt as the temperature is too high?
Or do you mean that there is grease coming out of somewhere when you use the oven?
@@AmreSupply When ever I cook a pizza, burritos or anything the food comes out pure grease, up till a week ago it didn't do that
@@GhostTacos1975 If the oven temperature is hotter than normal then you can calibrate it up or down 30°F ruclips.net/video/s8UdnR4Jw_g/видео.html
You'll need to observe the temperature and get the average over time.
Now if the temperature is significantly off, then it could be a faulty temperature sensor: ruclips.net/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/видео.html
@@AmreSupply I adjusted the oven temp and it still does it, I tried something different last night. I put the pizza in the oven right away the pizza was done before the oven was done preheating
@@GhostTacos1975 Using an oven thermometer, check the temperature at several different times during a bake cycle. If it is more than 30°F off then the temperature sensor is likely faulty: ruclips.net/video/jnt_mUwdL8o/видео.html
I have the plat electrect stove
Thank you for watching. If you have a ceramic / glass stove top then the troubleshooting steps are the same. If you need to access the element you can see this in this video: ruclips.net/video/XQ30epA84bQ/видео.html
My element would just stay on so I replaced the switch and it is still on!
Thanks for watching. If you replaced the switch and the heating element still stays on high, then it's likely a faulty/ shorted heating element. Replacing the element might help but it's still good to check all the connections to make sure nothing can cause a short. In a coiled stove, installing a new receptacle
can also help.
Now just to clarify, after installing a new switch and if the wires are installed correctly, the element should not heat up when the switch is turned off.
please help me my father
Thanks for watching.
somebody is shipping parts that do not meet electrical safety standards and this is causing a serious hazzard
we junked one range for this already and now we've had to repair our new one
somebody need to get called on the carpet
Thanks for watching. There are many 3rd party marketplaces and sellers which don't always guarantee quality. If you have come across someone selling counterfeit or low quality / unsafe components, then its best to report that to the company, or to a consumer protection association.
@@AmreSupply I've had to fix 2 now; both my kitchen; both ranges purchased new.
these overheated burners are a hazzard and there is likely a need for a class-action legal action
Best repair videos and best prices for parts is indeed from Amre supply.
Thank you for your kind words!
Every instructional video should be like this one. Preferably voiced by this guy.
Thank you for your kind words we're just glad to help out with these videos!
The real question is how do I get my range to slide in and out this easily? Getting the damn thing out was the hardest part.
Thanks for watching. One technique for sliding the range in and out is to use cardboard. If you tilt the range slightly there should be enough space to place some cardboard under the feet. If you can only get it on the from two feet then just keep pressure slightly on the front two feel while sliding it out.
My 'small burner-large burner' rocker switch on my Spectra electric range went out. I removed it and it reads 4 amp 250VAC and 8 amp 125VAC - 2 prong.
My question is all I find online for the replacement for that 14 y.o switch is 8 amp 250VAC and 12 amp 125VAC....Is that 'OK' or will it burn out something??
Thanks for watching. The ratings will refer to the maximum that the switch can handle. In this case using a higher rated switch will work and not create issues as nothing else in the circuit is different.
The apartment I live in. They're trying to say it's user error that there's nothing wrong with the stove after turning the burners on for like 30 seconds and them back off. Oh, it works. It's you, not the stove. Pisses me off! I've been cooking on electric ranges for nearly 50 yrs, I know when one isn't working right.
Thanks for watching. That is frustrating but it is easy to demonstrate if they are willing to listen. What you could do is you could put a pot of water on one of the good burners of the same size. Film it and see how long it takes to boil 2 cups of water at a low heat setting. Then film the dysfunctional burner at the same setting with 2 cups of water. There should be a clear difference between the two and it would be difficult to dismiss this as user error. If the contacts in the switch are stuck and the burner is staying on high, then water will boil much faster.
In regards to testing the element, you need to touch bare metal, if no bare surface available, you need to scratch the surface.
Thank you for sharing that great tip!
Could I leave for while the Cooktop Hot how it is. Is it dangerous to maintain it with this effect ? Please answer and thank you
Thanks for watching. If one burner stays on high but you're able to shut off the burner (and the burner is completely cool) then it's not a problem. Until the burner is fixed you should be able to just use the other burners without issue.
Now if the burner doesn't shut off even when the switch is turned off, then its best to unplug the stove or shut off power at the breaker.
Good pre-repair video... Now to find my pinch bar, and swiss army knife, and I can begin
Thank you, we're just happy to help!
My stove have a same problem.I changed switch but problem not solve
Thanks for watching. If you've replace the heat switch and the stove still stays on high, then it could be a shorted heating element, a problem with the receptacle or the wires.
Vance....Vance refrigeration
Thanks for watching.
Is safe to cook on a bowed stove topnlike this one? Top of it just bowed in the middle while I was using the oven.
Thanks for watching. If the metal stove top is warped from the oven's heat then it could still be ok to cook on. If it looks like all the stove components are not damaged, and any pots or pans still sit level, then it's likely still good to cook on.
What if you replace the switch, burner tests good, but it still overheats?
Thank you for watching. What do you mean by overheat? Does the stove only run on the high even when set to a low or medium setting?
Is there a way to force the stove top element to turn off while I wait for the repair part
Thanks for watching. If the stove element still turns off correctly when the dial is set to the off position, then there is no need to do anything.
If it doesn't turn off correctly, you can always disconnect the wires to the heat switch as this will prevent it from receiving any power.
I bought an Infinite switch from AmResupply on June 2017 and replaced it. Do these parts have warranty? The conventional electric coil didn't overheat like it did before after the fix, but got hot over a few months. Now in 2021 it is overheating again. This time, I want to test for a short first. Can I test for resistance or continuity at the coil using a multimeter rather than from the back panel?
Thanks for watching, and we appreciate your support. Electrical parts don't come with the same sorts of warranty as mechanical parts. I am not familiar with the exact policy but this is something that you can check with the customer care team.
There's a couple ways of narrowing down this problem. You could swap this infinite heat switch with the adjacent one. If the switch was the problem you would see the next burner show the same issue stay on high and overheat. The original burner would then start working like normal.
If swapping the heat switch doesn't change the problem, then it's likely a short. You can test the element for a short directly. You would test for continuity between one terminal and the outside or frame of the element. Then do the same for the 2nd terminal. There should be no continuity and no resistance reading in either case.
If the heat switch is not the problem and the element seems good then it could be an issue with the wires or receptacle.
Hope this helps!
@@AmreSupply I tested the element for a short with my auto-ranging multimeter. There is no continuity between the element terminal and the element coils. i changed the setting to resistance it is the same thing. I probed the other terminal and other coils. The only continuity that was found was between the two terminals.
@@winstondang5966 It's good to eliminate the element as a potential source. You can also swap the element with the same size element from the other side. If the element was the issue then the problem would move to the other burner.
You can still test for a short through the back wires, as well as swap the heat switch to try to isolate the problem.
arent the switches color coded?
Thanks for watching. The colors on the switches can vary between models so it's best to look at the terminal names instead.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
My electric ceramic stove burner overheats after awhile on anything but low. Low it usually stays low. So I either have a bad switch or need to change out filament or whatever it’s called to replace heating element. Fortunately it’s only one element overheating. I have the tools so I will be testing it out. What’s your take?
Hi Eric, thanks for watching. It's likely the switch. These heat switches use a bi-metallic strip which can warp over time. If you're curious you can see inside one of the switches here: ruclips.net/user/shortsURFjJPQycsk
@@AmreSupply thanks for reply. Other sites said the same. We have a 6 yr old new home but the worse purchase ever in construction and non stop power outages from a drop of rain or perfect sunny day. Looking to move. Power outage probably burnt out switch or motherboard but doubt it since only one burner act up. This burner been this way after 3rd yr.
@@ericb2861 You are right that is unlikely that the control board is burnt out if this problem is happening with only 1 burner. In these sorts of models, the control board does not supply power to the stove. Replacing the heat switch as this will likely fix the issue.
@@AmreSupply I may just buy the switch. We cool a lot. Still probably smart to double check when I do have a multi meter. Thanks for all you guys replies
@@ericb2861 You're welcome!
Nice and informative video.
Thanks for watching!
What's the most likely problem if all of the elements are staying on high
Thanks for watching. If the stove uses 4 separate heat switches then it is very unlikely for all 4 switches to have failed all at once. The only scenario that it might happen is if a range has a control board that is connected to the oven and stove. In this case a faulty control board would effect all 4 elements.
@@AmreSupply sorry so one element stayed on high first then the others slowly started doing the same . So would that most likely be the elements or the switches?
@@boldackalack_4864 It's most likely the switches are becoming faulty. These switches use bimetallic strips that bend when current passes through the strips. The metal can become fatigued overtime which can cause the element to stay on high. If you're curious here's a 1 minute video showing the inside of the switch: ruclips.net/user/shortsURFjJPQycsk
Here's the video that shows how to install new heat switches: ruclips.net/video/JKrrOflS1RM/видео.html
@@AmreSupply thank you for the quick reply a real life saver il be subscribing definitely
@@boldackalack_4864 You're welcome, we're just happy to help! Cheers!