R33 Fuel Gauge Not working ? - How to remove r33 fuel level sender and how to clean it.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- Hey Guys, please see below description.
All Information is originally from sau.com.au
sender Problems:
-Fuel gauge would go from full to empty and then back to full again with a full tank of fuel.
-Fuel gauge would go below empty 'E' and would just stay there with a full tank of fuel.
-Fuel gauge was not accurate and the needle points to 'E with 10-20 liters left in the tank.
Note: This guide assumes that your fuel gauge is working correctly and the fuel level sender is the problem.
Items for the job:
-Cotton Wool
-Prepsol, Turps or Metho
-Knife
-Screwdriver
-Multimeter for testing (Optional)
Step 1:
Remove your fuel sender from the tank.
Step 2:
Inset a thin flat object (in this case I used a knife) under the tab/clip and then insert a flat blade screwdriver between the two halves of the fuel sender plastic case and slightly twist to
lever the two pieces apart. You need to do this bit by bit as there are quite a few clips holding the two halves together. Go slow and dont twist too hard or you will break the plastic case.
Step 3:
Once the two halves are apart you can see the float and the piece of steel that it which we need to clean to make sure the float is making good contact with the steel. I tested the float by moving it up down with a multi meter connected and the
resistance was jumping around and showing dead spots.
Step 4:
Clean the metal piece that the float slides on with some cotton wool and some metho, turps or prepsol to remove the grime that has built up. It does not seem dirty but once you start cleaning it you will see the dirt wipe off with ease. Don't
forget to clean both sides of the sender metal guide that the float slides on. You can see the dirt coming off the float slide on the cotton wool below.
Step 5:
Once you have cleaned both sides of the float guide connect a multi meter to the float plug as seen in the pic below and set the multi meter to read ohms I set mine to 2000ohms. The
black wire is negative and the white wire is positive. When sliding the float up and down the rail you should see the numbers on the multi meter go up and down with out jumping around too much. As we can see in the pic empty is showing 8ohms roughly half way is showing 55ohms and full is showing 950hms with smooth increments in between.
Step 6:
Give the fuel sender casing a good clean to make sure you get all of the dirt off it. I also used a compressed air to blow some a the bits of dirt out.
Step 7:
Reassemble the fuel sender by placing the two halves together and you should hear the tabs click once they are seated. That's it time to refit and test with a full tank of fuel.
Trying this on my r33 gtst tonight, PRAY TO GOD THIS WORKS i got my multimeter and rwc booked tomorrow 💪🏼
Keeping my fingers crossed for you 🤞🏻will have to let us know if it works for you. 🙏🏻👍🏻
Picked up my R33 on Friday. This was the only issue. Will give this a try and report back! Perfect timing.
Fingers crossed for you it works. Be patient as it can be a frustrating. I have listed the steps I followed in the description as well.
Cheers for the video mate 👍
What a pain this is to do, did my fuel pump a while ago and the guage isnt working so gotta pull it out again 🥴
Fingers crossed the sender just fell off 🤞
@@ndorfn6579 It’s such a rubbish job mate. I need to do another video. I’ve got my gauge working. But I had to source a second hand sender unit.
Swapped it out and it worked straight away. But between that black ring that you have to knock loose. Then trying to get the sender off all whilst being in an awkward position leaning into the boot of your car it’s got to be one of the worst jobs.🤣
@@ashlb8223yeah man it's a cow of a job 😫 so annoyed I have to do it again.
At least you got it sorted with a replacement, typical tho.
I ended up making a tool to get the cap off with a cple of brackets I had lying around (kinda like this
____|___| ) actually worked 😅.
I'll keep an eye out for you vid.
Take it ezy and good luck.
From 🇦🇺
@@ndorfn6579 I might try to make a tool as well as I’m sure it won’t be the last time I’ll need to go and fix somthing 🤣
Thanks man you take it easy as well 👍🏻
This helped me out alot cheers big shout out from zambia
Thanks 😊 I’m glad it was some help to you mate 👍🏻
Thanks for the video, just got back my car, after nearly 2 years rebuild. Mechanic just give up, so I have to finish everthing by myself. Noticed fuel level at "dead" level. And timing bełt too tight :-) And some other issues. Thanx !
No problem at all, hope it helps sort the fuel level. Some of the guys that have commented have also put some good information also. 😁👍🏻
Thanks for the video mate!
No problem mate, I hope it was some help 👍🏻
Would an s14 float work if the float itself is broken?
That’s a good question. I’m not sure I do plan on getting to the bottom of fixing it. But if the float is the thing that’s broken it may be an option 👍🏻
I'm struggling to remove the sender unit. Any advice?
Hey, I not going to lie it was a real struggle to get mine free. Also trying not to get the urge to just yank on it as hard as possible.
The sender comes off the bracket to the left. I trying grabbing towards the bottom then the top trying to work it off the bracket.
I do have a Instagram ashlb33, feel free to drop me a message and I’ll try to send over images of the sender. Might be able to get zoomed in image of the clip so you can sort of visualise how it will come undone. I have a couple of mates with Skylines who have had battles with getting the sender unit off.
I do have to take mine off again sometime this year as I’ve sourced the fault to the unit. My wiring to the gauge works. I’m dreading it!
@@ashlb8223 thanks for getting back to me. I read another comment saying use a screwdriver to prize the clip on the unit so I may try that. I've tried wriggling it, twisting it, pulling from the top, middle and bottom. It's frustrating to say the least. Lol
@@josephspeed3006 That might be worth a try like you say if you can open that clip abit it might come free.
Like you say, I left it over night and came back to it the next day as it was driving me mad and killing my legs leaning into the boot.
Keeping my fingers crossed for you 🤞🏻 like I say I’ve taken some close up pictures not the best. But if you want them can ping the over Instagram. 👍🏻
Good vid. But not showing how to remove the sender unit from the metal bracket. I'm still struggling with trying to remove it / detach it from the metal bracket. 😵
Hey mate, it’s so difficult to try film removing it that’s why I tried to add the images of the bracket to know what your feeling for.
The bracket connects to the sender unit in the middle. If you feel down the sender about midway hopefully you’ll be able to feel it. It took me ages to get it to undo and was a very frustrating especially leaning over the boot of the car. I did have to use abit of force to get it to detach.
Hoping you have success dude. I need to get mine back out at some point when I do will try to do a better video 👍🏻
@@ashlb8223 Yeah, understood,mate. If only there's a 3D video on how to do it/tutorial. Like technical CG/3D video could explain. That would be awesome. 😆
@@sufianzaini4879 it would mate, I really wanted to do a much detail as possible to help people as I couldn’t really find much out there. But once your arms in the tank it’s impossible to show. If someone had a broken fuel tank off the car and cut it up so you could film from the inside that would be a good.
Hopefully you get it detached mate, like I say I was faffing around for a while and I couldn’t get it to come free and gradually tried to be abit more forceful and it finally came free.
@@ashlb8223 Yeah, hopefully someone can do a cutout of the tank & film it in detail, or could just do a 3D rendering video. Yeah, the metal bracket in my tank is pretty rusted already, so I tried prying with flat screwdriver while tugging & wiggling the unit, it still couldn't come off. I'm scared it would break the plastic slot for the metal bracket. 😟
@@sufianzaini4879 ahh bugger mate, that’s what my concern was when pulling with more force on the sender. By the sounds of it your doing what was was trying to wiggle it off that bracket. Keeping my fingers crossed 🤞🏻 for you it comes off.
I have the same issue but mines internittant, hopefully you work it out!
I managed to get mine out late last year, and cleaned it down with acetone as well. Ran a multimeter across it and was getting variable resistance. Put it all back together, and its working sometimes but again keeps dropping right down indicating no signal. I have multiple clusters and its always the same so its not the cluster itself, so I assume its wiring related....its a headache though.
Thanks man, so do I really thought cleaning the sender would have worked. Typically I didn’t have a multimeter at the time.
But I plan on changing the fuel pump and I have a multimeter now. So hopefully will do the test to see if we’re getting any resistance. Such a pain though!
My Speedo isn’t working either all the other gauges work. But hopefully will be able to get them both working again.
I had a similar problem to you. I know why your fuel sender fix did not work. You need to take it apart again and repare the brushes on the float. The float is not connecting to the resistance rail. You can test the rail by bringing the yellow and black terminals and testing the resistance along the rails with a multimeter 25 - 95 ohms. I made a brand-new float brushes assembly from 3,000 brass plate. Let me know how you went. Regards, Trevor
Thanks for the comment mate, I haven’t had chance to look into it further since the video I did. I will defiantly have a look into this.
Also thankyou for the info, hopefully this video and all the comments will help everyone out 👍🏻
If you have insta mine is ashlb33 if you have any pictures of the repair that would be great 🙏🏻
@trevorotjen8, Trevor, for the past 24 hours I've been trying to figure out how to re-build both float brushes, and I'm still trying to figure out the best material to use for gasoline/petrol application, hoping I can make them better & stronger/sturdier than what comes from factory. For that reason I would like to know if by any chance you have a drawing, pic, sketch or video that you could share with us, and also I would like to know what do you mean when you refer to 3,000 brass plate.
THANK YOU!!!
@@jesusmrodriguez1123
No pics or video. Find 3,000 brass or copper and copy the layout of the original float. The brushes are quite forgiving if you make the conection too tight. I actually cut my brushes on an angle, starting from 8mm at the float to 5mm at the end of the brush.
No pics or video. Find 3,000 brass or copper and copy the layout of the original float. The brushes are quite forgiving if you make the conection too tight. I actually cut my brushes on an angle, starting from 8mm at the float to 5mm at the end of the brush.