How small should climbing shoes be & how to break them in?
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2024
- A little chat on how small your climbing shoes should be. Plus, a few tips on how to break your new climbing shoes in.
Hope you enjoy it!
Also, have a look at our Women's Bouldering Festival video here bit.ly/WBFvideo2019
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Music Credit: Dj Quads
Track Name: "WWW Is A Thing"
Music By: Dj Quads @ / aka-dj-quads
Original upload HERE - www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cqqU...
Official "Dj Quads" RUclips Channel: ruclips.net/channel/UCusF...
License for commercial use: Proof of "permission for commercial use" can be found on Dj Quads SoundCloud page, or in the description of his original RUclips upload.
Music promoted by NCM goo.gl/fh3rEJ
Excellent information, clearly given. No clever video shots, no background music, just a clear explanation of a confusing subject.
Really useful.
been bouldering in trad shoes since 2003 :p - great advice - comfort over pain anyday!
Best video ever! Me as starting out boulderer had no clue what size of the shoes to get, your tips made it so much easier to understand now :)
Great vid and totally agree with you on the downsizing. I went down 2.5 sizes for my cobra ecos and was ripping off toenails for the 1st mth of wear. In hindsight, 2 sizes down would have been fine even if there's a bit of give in the shoe...
Thank you, this was helpful for picking solution size
Just bought my first shoes the scarpa origin and im ok with the crush its just my left heel is a tad sore .the hair dryer and the plastic bag trick sounds awesome off i go so excited thank you. I think your video was awesome thank you so much. Big love from uk cheers
This video helps a lot. I want to buy my second shoes after 2 years of climbing. I started with 46 narrow comfy shoe(my street shoe size is 47(.5)) and now I really want to buy solution shoe as a lot people like it and recommend. Now I see that I might try size 45 and overcome first moment until it stretches and fit my foot. Thanks :)
Thank you for this. Getting my first pair soon and was so confused by everyone's advice but you've managed to clear things up for me :)
good tip: one foot is bigger than other so big toe on one foot will bend in the shoe, and in the other it'll be flatter - that's when you know you've got a good size. If both big toes are bent, more likely than not the shoes are too small, and conversely if both big toes are flat, more likely than not, the shoes are too big and when you break them in they'll be moving around a lot inside! (my friend who started climbing recently made this mistake and his toes kept popping off everything he stood on due to the gap in front of his toes after breaking in climbing shoes he brought in too big a size)
hey thismwas a very informative video. thank you. I looked around and this video was the most in depth
Thanks from Mexico
Terrific video, thanks Zofia!
Awesome video. Great info. Thanks for the post!! :)
Thank you Zofia for so much useful information :)
Some of the high end Five Tens were actually supposed to be a bit baggy in the heel. The heel cup was super aggressive which gave that extra power to the toe, but at the same time it left some space on the sides. And for the most people it was extremely uncomfortable around achilles, but for me Blancos are the ultimate beast machine;) Great vid though.
Thank you for this really helpful
Dont go too hard with the hair dryer. The glues they use in shoes are susceptible to too much heat and may cause the rubber to peal from the upper
bag on the foot is genius!
Thanks for your video!! I just bought some Katakis in size 36 (street size is 37) and they are so painful to put on, mostly because of the shape holding mechanism which presses on your achilles' heel (gave me an instant foot cramp first time I put it on). But i've read everywhere that they stretch a lot since they're unlined leather, and they're already a bit wide (I have very narrow feet) so I don't want to size up. I was hesitant to wear them in the shower but I'll try the plastic bag trick and the hairdryer trick too, just wondering if that's not going to somehow melt/damage the glue?
I love the ocun ozones! I'm on my second pair of these shoes and they continue to shine!!
Why would you get a second pair instead of resoling your first one?
If the upper was damaged. Ozone’s are great 😊
really...?!? i just saw one of the if not THE best video about climbingshoes (and i´ve seen a lot lately!)... ...just to find out that that´s the only video you have online...!?! ... ...please... ...do some more...
Depending on the brand and material I usually size down 1-.5 size from my street shoe size. 36EU is my sweet spot, tight but not painful. Currently breaking in my Ocun Nitros and it’s the same, uncomfortable but not painful. I was told that the best way to find your shoe size in climbing. It should feel weirdly tight but not so painful you can’t stand or climb. ❤ Cool video! Thanks for sharing
Really good, you should do more "tech" talks
great tips :)
I have a pair that is too small :( thanks for the suggestion
more videos please😍
Good video,you should do some more.
very useful video
I felt my toes were screaming when I tried a smaller size, just couldn't "stand" those ones. Eventually, I bought the size near my sneakers, even though I still felt my toes squeeze together in the front of the shoes.
I’m size 9 and I have to wear anything from size 10-11.5 depending on make and model. I can’t go lower bc I have a skin graft on my heel. Also my feet are very wide for a size 9 so going a smaller size is just not possible. My current scarpa veloce are 2.5 sizes bigger than my normal shoe and it fits like a glove
Cool video, thanks for the info! I subbed :)
I had to buy 2 sizes above my walk around shoes. You lot are crazy.
Completely depends on the brand.
Same, I had to go 1.5 - 2 sizes bigger than my normal size just to fit my foot in the shoe and not have my toes curled completely over painfully
Good video. When you say shoes stretch it should be said that the sole don't get longer but rather the upper stretches which can make the shoe more bareable. It will not feel the same as a bigger shoe.
Thank Zofia , useful info, as beginner i got my first pair of shoes without try them on ( Gifted ) La sportiva , i think they are a bit tight hard to walk with them ,so i try plastic version see if it works !!
Thanks
Climbing shoes aren't meant for walking. It will always be uncomfortable to walk around in them and it's bad for the shoes too. If they hurt when climbing that's bad.
It was really nice video I wish you had made more, very interesting person
Would you recommend used shoes for beginners? If we’re doing indoor climbing for now, is that “track” climbing...or would the bouldering indoor need bouldering shoes?
Zofia, this is an amazing video! Thanks a lot!.. I have a question... My street shoes size are 41 and I bought a pair of climbing shoes with the same size (41) but they hurt a lot (A LOT!) especially when I walk.. Is it normal? Should I break them? or should I change them?.. Can someone help me?
It all depends on the brand/model, but I think you might have bought an aggressive shoe, or one that just doesn't fit your foot. My street shoes are 42, but so far, all 3 of my climbing shoes were size 41. Red Chili Spirit VCR, La Sportiva Miura VS, La Sportiva Solutions.
The Red Chili were my first shoes that I wanted to be comfortable, so when I bought them, I could already walk around in them in the store, with mild discomfort. And when I went climbing in them, pretty much after the first session, I could wear them throughout the whole session, without needing to take them off.
Both La Sportivas are downturned, so they are quite painful, still in the process of breaking them in.
As a first pair of shoes, I would recommend going to a big store with a bunch of models, try all of them on and find one that you can walk in without any pain. Then pull on the heel, see if it pops off. If it doesn't, get those. Don't get painful shoes, because you simply won't enjoy climbing.
Leave the painful shoes for the 2nd/3rd pair.
So my question is. I just bought evolv shamans size 10.5, because the old evolv defys size 11 were too big. However the shaman is killing my foot. Should I stick with it or exchange the size?
LeTruEan Basic premise is for shoes if you cannot climb without thinking about taking off the shoes, the fit is bad. This fit depends on shoe size, toe and arch and heel volume, asymmetry, downturn, heel tension, lining, stiffness, and general design of the last, and this is nonexhaustive. Try a different shoe, especially one from another manufacturer with similar features, to decide what about the shoe is killing your foot and whether this can be solved with simple size changes.
Hey man, I got a pair of Evolv Shamans as well and I'm kind of finding that they're killing my one foot. Did you find them to stretch out at all? I heard that synthetics don't really stretch out and I don't want to tough it out with these for 2 months if they don't get better!!
I'm just starting and have a pair of shoes that I think are small enough. If I try to walk with them un-laced, my heel does not come up. If I point my toe, my heel will come up. The problem is that they hurt my Achilles' tendons when I'm standing, and when I walk around, I have to walk with straight legs or they push on my tendons too much. Is this normal? I can't seem to find any information on this issue.
Hi! So, various shoes have different shapes and some might not be good for your feet and you can't help it much. If you feel like you're getting injured cause of the shoes it's def not good! See how it feels if you climb in them for a few sessions but if they don't get better then you might have to find a new owner for them. I used to use rock pillars pearl a lot (now Ocun) and I had three pairs I think and then their manufacturing wasn't consistent and I had a pair that damaged the nerves in on of my heels! it was just too tight at the back and it was pressing really badly and i lost sensation on the back of my heel for a few months.... Unfortunately it's all very personal, so it involves a lot of trial and error. Trust your judgment and choose something that allows you to enjoy climbing without being in pain! :)
When you say “tight” do you mean in the length, too? I just bought some beginners shoes and my big toe is verrrry tight in there, but not bent, my other toes are slightly clawed
Jack especially in the lenght
Jack your Big Toe actually should be bent a bit. If the rest of your foot hurts then try a broader shoe
Kokojambo thank you :) I bought some Evolve Defy’s as my first shoes but they have stretched out a fair bit, and I found they now feel a bit clumsy for foot switching on small holds as I’ve got better. I may look in to some tighter ones!
could be you have wide feet and that those model of shoes are just not suitable for your feet. Everyone has different shaped feet and what works for one person doesn't work for another. I'm a five ten guy. Nothing else I have tried fit my feet as well as five ten shoes, but for my friend, he finds five ten too narrow and always gets scarpa or one of the la sportivas (can't remember which)
I like my kids Sox on my feet they make the pressure points not hurt.
I laugh so hard with the cats...XD
Do shoes stretch length wise? I just got a pair but they are so painful on my second toe because it's longer than my big toe, but they are only 1 size smaller than my street size (they run small already). I'm hoping they'll get longer. I don't care about the width, I can handle a narrow shoe, but if they're too short, I have an issue. I may return them for a half size larger..
I don't think your shoes are going to gain in lenght, you should consider getting shoes that fit your foot shape. You shouldn't hurt yourself climbing.
It all depends on what they’re made of, if they’re made of synthetic materials then they won’t stretch at all or if they do it’ll be so little you won’t really notice. If they’re leather then they can stretch of to 1/2-1 whole size. So look up the shoe and look at what the upper is made of, if leather than it should stretch out but if they’re synthetic then you’re out of luck
Great video by the way! My wife and I thought your accent was great; similar to people we met in Hong Kong; British/Asian
I think the main reason for getting tight shoes is that they just last longer in terms of stretching
"good footwork can be executed pretty much in whatever, as long as it's not a welly..."
caver: hold my beer :D
It´s not about how small. That´s the most widespread misunderstanding about climbing shoes. Its about which form and size to support your feet and toe joints in order to NOT fuck them up for the rest of your life. Huge difference. Learn about foot form and which shoes support them in a sufficient way. So far the company that has the best expertise in this regard is the German company LOWA. Unpleasant people but they make great shoes.
Guter, substantieller Beitrag, scheint mir. Ich fange gerade mit dem Klettern an und dieses Schuhthema ist doch ziemlich schmerzhaft am Anfang.
@@fuerLutzi Danke. Wie gesagt die Fußform ist entscheidend. Ich würde empfehlen mich maximal in Schritten von 3 Paaren zum "Enthusiastenschuh" vorzuarbeiten. Das erste Paar sollte einfach komfortable sein und eine verstärkte Sohle haben. So schonst du deine Sehnen und die Knöchel. Dann kannst Du das Korsett etwas enger schnallen und einen Schuh wählen der enger ist und eine Sohle hat die nur noch halb starr ist. Beim dritten Paar nimmst du einen unverstärkten Schuh, mit downturn. Diesen Anfangs im wechsel mit dem zweiten Paar Schuhe benutzen. Hierbei ist entscheidend, das die Belastung beim Antreten immer gleichmäßig auf alle Knöchel verteilt wird (nicht nur auf den großen Onkel) und der Schuh den Fuß fest umschließt. Und bitte gerne an der Schmerzgrenze kaufen, aber so das man noch klettern kann. Der Schuh wird sich recht schnell dehnen und dann wie angegossen passen. Bitte Fußform beachten, das ist das Wichtigste. Was Schmerzen angeht: Schmerzen die durch Reibung zwischen Schuh und Haut entstehen sind unwichtig, da sich hier eine Hornhaut entwickelt, Druckschmerz auf Gelenke und Knöchel zeugen von falscher Schuhform.
@@Marauder1981 Ebenfalls Danke. Gibt es denn zu meinem eher breiten Fuß einen korrespondierenden Kletterschuh? Mein ungeübtes Auge sah nur zierliche Schühchen. I'm gonna look into that Lowa stuff.
@@fuerLutzi Seit ich mit Klettern aufgehört habe, hat LOWA leider den Red Eagle eingestellt. Aber ich empfehle dir, bei Google Bildersuche nach Fußformen zu gucken und dich selbst schlau zu machen, da die meisten Verkäufer keine Ahnung davon haben und auch die Schuhhersteller, meist wenig darauf eingehen. Das ist aber ultimativ wichtig um Folgeschäden zu vermeiden. Wenn du dann weißt was für einen Fuß du hast (Ägyptisch, Grieschich etc.) geh unbedingt zu einer Kletterhalle, die auch Schuhe verkauft. Die ganzen Outdoorbekleider verkaufen zwar auch welche. Die wissen aber über Rucksäcke und Thermojacken bescheid und nicht über die Eigenheiten von Kletterschuhen. Dann lässt du dir ein Paar Schuhe zeigen und stellst sie nebeneinander, guckst von oben drauf und dann bist du schon viel schlauer. Für dich als ANfänger , könnte der Boreal Jocker super sein. Probier den mal aus. Noch was: immer 2 Schuhgrößen kleiner kaufen als deine Straßenschuhgröße.
@@Marauder1981 ich kaufte bei der "Bergsportzentrale" hier in Hannover, das sind alles Kletterer aus Leidenschaft und seit Jahrzehnten, insofern eine gute Adresse. Thema Fußformen kommt auf die Liste, ein orthopädischer Schuster hätte womöglich auch den einen oder anderen tipp. Recht herzlichen Dank und einen schönen Restsonntag.
scarpa for a wide foot all the way
Pain In the foot you mean
Don’t down size 5 sizes
I'm men's 6 us size what size climbing shoe you recommend for me???
Debu Mondal unless you are looking at a specific shoes there isn’t really a good answer to this. If possible you really want to try them on beforehand. Sizing can very great from brands and even models within the same brand. If possible try a bunch of different shoes on before buying. This blogger has it right, for your first shoe just get something comfortable. By the time you want something higher performance it will likely be time for new shoes anyway and by then climbing will have consumed your life and you will likely have already decided what you want next.
Thank you so much
Always try on the shoes, and try on half size up/half size down and try them on a wall, make sure there is no baginess anywhere, the heel doesn’t slip, no looseness around toes etc. Every shoe is different, every manufacturer is different. Some will suit your foot shape, some won’t. I can’t wear any la sportiva shoes, they feel terrible baggy in weird spots) and I can’t get power to the toe, scarpa shoes (furia and drago) on the other hand fit me perfectly every time and I never need to break them in. Even when I buy new scarpas I try them on just in case the last has changed slightly - last time I actually went down half a size to get the same fit/feel as my previous shoes - same model (furia) but a new year model and slightly different construction. Also good to try on different shoes of the same model and size if a shoe feels like it has a bump or stitching rub in it - ie a manufacturing anomaly.
I think you are gorgeous :)
Helpful.. well done, @lednip
the random cat fight lmao
Love your German accent.