How To Break In Climbing Shoes: Fire, Ice & Water | Climbing Daily Ep.1813
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- Breaking in climbing shoes can sometimes be a painful process. Today we look at three ways of speeding up the break in time. With these tips you can achieve a tight, performance fit, without the pain...
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How To Break In Climbing Shoes: Fire, Ice & Water | Climbing Daily Ep.1813 
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Usually I just break the ice by asking the shoe’s name and what brings them to this crag.
Let's go behind this rock and get a little boulder
Resoler here... Never EVER put your shoes in the oven. Chemicals in the glue are heat activated and this may lead to delamination. For the record, we use heat to remove the old soles a from your shoes when we resole. Sportiva shoes in particular react badly to heat. Can’t really believe that they are actually recommending this on a climbing video!!! Jeez!
Would you say warm water is cold enough to not mess with the glue then?
@@daniellambden1842
Personally I would just get the right size and climb in them! 😀
But if you must, warm water might be OK, and the ice trick would work. Stretching them in a mold or a 'last' is also recommended.
@@daniellambden1842 if you can soak your foot in the water, it should be fine. it will be under 110F (44C), and the glue should be fine if it is fully cured (crosslinked).
Yeah, but at what temperature is the oven when you remove the old sole? I've been heating my brand new shoes at 120 to 145 and i've never have had such a thing happen to my shoes. Mind you, i've been doing this since 2000 with all brands of shoes.
I took a shower with my dank-ass Testarossas and my shoes stopped beating my feet like an episode of the Sopranos and started serving me pizzas to help me do sick sends instead. 10/10
I have them to in a 43 just got them but the destroy my toes did yours ? Or are they just to small for me
@@spencerhatton7632 They're very aggressive, so it might just be that. Mine hurts too.
Mine hurts SO BAD. The top of the big toe has so much pressure. Will try this tonight
I know it's not supposed to be completely scientific test, but you need to take into account that your feet might be of slightly different size, so the left shoes might be easier to put on to begin with regardless of the break in method.
And as others have pointed out, some of the methods might make you loose the guarantee of the shoe. I wouldn't definitely do the oven method, as is might cause melting of the glue and making the shoes easier to break apart, instead of breaking in.
In Finland we like to wear new climbing shoes in sauna to break them in. I'm not completely sure if it works, but gives you the excuse to go to the sauna :)
The sauna method is like a mix of water and oven so I think it might be the best and i will call it the Finnish method
It sure works to give you an excuse to go to the sauna :)
You can actually use wind too, with a hairdryer. Heats up the old rock clogs quite nicely, and it's easy to manage the temps.
After I bought my last pair of La Sportiva Solutions, I put them on and heated the top up with a fan. I think a fan is better than just throwing them in the oven, since you can actually target the area in which you can feel too much pressure. Mine are perfect now, very snug, but the top rubber layer stretched just the tiniest bit to make it comfortable for my toes👍
Just where them till your feet stop bleeding
Thanks for the video. The freezing method works wonders for people with slightly different sized feet!
I got a pair of BD Momentums which were tight but okay my right(smaller) foot. Left one i almost couldn't get in - extremely painful. After freeze-widening just the left shoe 5 times in a row and then once hotwater-bucket both shoes they fit perfect now.
This was the coolest episode of Cribs I've ever seen... that place is funky cool 😎 the freezer was interesting to see lol
Badass tips though! May have to try one...
Best combo solution:
- hot shower with shoes
- walk around
- get out your hairdryer and dry shoe on your foot
Perfect fit.
I've been climbing since 2000. I've tried that method but THEE best method is still the oven method. After about 5 to 6 min of baking, the shoe is cold enough still that you could put your foot in it right away, walk around... i do this 3x time in a row and they fit perfectly.
My method is this:
Oven at 145 for 6 min
Put on shoes walk around put them back in the oven
Oven at 145 for 6 min
Put on shoes walk around put them back in the oven
Oven at 145 for 6 min
Put shoes on and they're a perfect snug fit by this time.
Farenheit or Celsius?
@@DanielRodriguez-bj4lt lmfao
@@Pr0x1mo fahrenheit or celsius?
@@DanielRodriguez-bj4lt Will be fahrenheit otherwise they'd probably melt
this is very helpful, thank you for making this video! I can add 2 things: 1) the packing plastic sheet that comes with many shoes (sportivas for sure) can be wrapped over the foot for the initial time putting them on. It gives a slippery surface which allows the new shoes to slip on easily. 2) they make nylon socks which can be worn during the break in period and also they are slippery so the shoes slide on easier and help prevent blisters
To whom ever has ever forgotten a beer in the freezer, the Ice method makes alot of sense.
like canned beer? RIP cleaning that up
been there, done that!
But does the ice expand in a uniform way that matches your foot shape?
@@michaelderosier3505 Most probably it would mold to the shoes shape, so u could say it molds to the foot shape, sort off.
I usually just chuck mine in the fucking fire of mt doom for a few minutes before sending. it makes them pretty uncomfortable but I can climb V2 with this method so idk whatever works
Freezing high performance rubber can ruin it. Especially hitting it while frozen, the rubber can crack. I use the warm water method, which is especially good with leather shoes. Stuff them with newspaper after to keep the shape.
So...the ice will be 11% bigger than the water, which is roughly one step in width settings E->F etc. But to be honest the stretching only manifests under certain circumstances. For example, I’ve tried this in full length laced shoes and the laces weren’t noticeably tighter when the water was frozen than before, because you can’t really tighten laces onto a bag of water, even with the top tied. The fire: find out what the melting point of the adhesive on the sole is before doing this. The water... this probably just lubricates your foot in the shoe, making it less painful to keep on for longer and allowing full insertion of the foot into the shoe’s volume. A plastic bag probably has the same effect.
There can also be up to 0.5 Euro size difference between L/R in a pair and between pairs, and 5:10/Adidas are no better than anyone else in this regard, so a bigger dataset than used here is required.
Incidentally, in my own research, Scarpa were the most consistent shoes size-wise and Butora the most variable.
Just get some Tenayas my friends, no need for these gimmicks, they’re comfy out of the box! (Not sponsored by Tenaya) 😀 Also, I’d be a bit careful heating up the shoes too much as you might end up delaminating your sole.
I think they are really comfy when you buy them as recommended, but I got 39 1/2 and my actual shoe size is 42, to break them is really painful :D
The 40s are way to big somehow in the heel area and even the 39s still have a lot of space (but maybe thats just how my foot is)
@@dalivanwyngarden3204 omg i was almost crying because i didn’t know if i bought them too big, but i did the same as you and yes, so far it’s being a pain in the ass
I just got a new pair of Ocun Jett QC, Wich were also designed do be super comfy at the store. I said to myself "I finally found a model that doesn't hurt!".
First try at the crag : it hurts so bad😢, like my last attempt with another model.
what about the consequences of those three methods on the rubber? heating or freezing the rubber could compromize it. I guess that the second method could be the less damaging. it could be interesting to see the long-therm consequences on the rubber
Once won’t lol why is everyone so annoying over shit like this.
If the water isn't frozen do you have tips on where to get a new freezer?
😆😆
Does this work with synthetic base shoes? I was told only to do this with leather based.
the only real decent method is the hot water one, the ice one just stretches the shoe out in equal directions, which isn't what most people want, you may end up with it too loose in a certain area as it's not being conformed to your foot in any manner, i would only suggest this method if you're shoe is feeling tight all the way around....the over method is highly likely to destabilize the glue that's used to bond the entire shoe together, you may end up having to resole or re-glue your shoe sooner than later....doubly so if you're doing multiple bakes as the first one didn't take.....the hot water trick is safe for all materials used in the shoe, doesn't reach temps that would destabilize any of the materials and conforms to your foot unlike the ice method.....
personally i do the hot water method and came here to see if there were any new ideas out there as it's been about 8-10 years since i last checked, just been buying the same shoes over and over again but decided to branch out and try something new,beyond the hot water trick i usually just wear them around the house for as long as i can, take them off and rinse and repeat until they're broken in.....i don't like breaking new shoes in on routes, sucks having to call it a day because your feet can't hang.....also seems weird that all day comfort used to mean just that....all day, 8-12 hours without having to take em off....now people are considering all day comfort like 4-5 hours? seems a bit cheese....like who only climbs for 4-5 hours if they got a whole day? 4-5 hours is a session, not a day.
Shoe stretch spray works great on leather shoes, mixed results on synthetic.
Aren't these NIADs synthetic which has limited stretch. I used to do this stuff when I tried to do the epic downsizing. Climbing was just painful and not enjoyable until the shoes stretched enough. I can't say I performed alot better with super tight shoes. If its is synthetic and you've seized it right, it'll mould perfectly after 3-4 sessions. I've only ever needed to do this when I've bought the wrong size shoe.
I recently got some boreal mutants and my right foot is clearly bigger than my left. The left feels like theres no deadspace and hurts a bit but my right hurts a lot more. Went a half size down from street shoes. Should i try a hairdryer or go a half size up? Or will it expand a bit over time?
Feet to the fire works! I’ve done it on numerous shoes
depending on material heat in excess of 120 could only work if you wear them until they cool on the feet.
Are feet the same size? The last method was done with a right shoe while the previous the left. If feet are different size that could skew.
Good Tec, thanks
Random question, how does this model compare with Anasazi?
Do the different methods damage the integrity of the shoes in any way?
It depends on the glue that was used to manufacture the shoe. Some glues are more resistant to low/high temperatures, but it can still impact the durability of the shoe.
Don't know abut the water :/
I break my climbing shoes with a dryer and a thick socks - I can precise focus on areas that are painful. And climb a lot, of course.
my 10.5 black diamonds fit my left foot like a glove whereas my right foot must be just a touch bigger and feels like the little pigs are in a hydrolic press. Just did the submerge but will do the ice method tonight aswell
Moral of the story: don’t put ur climbing shoes in the oven
Radical idea but how about just wearing them climbing for short time and build up when stretched
Best way in my experience, getting them wet makes them feel dank and horrible. But if you do what i do and go down like 4-5 sizes, it can be nice to use something like a shoe hand to do that first bit of breaking in for me.
@@Adam_Wheeler 4-5 sizes wow
just a heads up: You might loose insurance on the shoe when you use the water and oven method
Is your right foot bigger?
1) personale esperienza, non funziona
3) rischiosa per chi non è pratico, se sgarri con le temperature si scolla
2) meglio, io indosso un sacchetto da surgelati prima di infilare il piede nella scarpetta per ridurre la frizione, e poi vado in doccia calda (più di 38° gradi di solito non si va, così non si rischiano scollamenti) e fletto il piede più che posso. In 3 giri di solito diventano "vivibili"
C'è anche la possibilità più pratica e logica di andare dal calzolaio, e dirgli di tirare la scarpetta con l'allargascarpe.
what?
@@highflystereo2124
I'm a lazy guy, spending time to translate drains my life energy
Umm wouldn’t the heat cause delamination? Scarpa don’t even recommend people leaving their shoes in hot cars.
Exactly!
Intresting test. But putting the control on a different foot completely invalidates the experiment.
Speaking as someone who helps fit climbing shoes on a regular basis its not uncommon for left and right feet to be differently sized/shaped. Id say in about 1/4 people the size difference between right/left is noticable and can greatly affect fit.
They say downsize 2-3 euro sizes. I wear a 46 everyday shoe, went for a 44 in scarpas and they are painfully small, like unwearable after five minutes. Maybe try a 45?
i know its 8 months late and you hopefully got the right ones now, but Scarpa is making pretty narrow shoes so you should downsize around 1 size to your street shoe size. La Sportiva usually makes the biggest ones were you can downsize 2-3 sizes. BD and 5.10 usually are good in your street shoe size or .5 size down. but it all really depends on your foot, there isnt a formular for everyone, so usually i go and try on some different brands and if i like a model i try on 4 sizes starting with street shoe size going down 2 sizes and than i check what fits best.
Just climb in them theyll hurt but, this sport is no pain no gainzz
Toes out for the boys!
Putting shoes in a oven is the best way to destroy your shoes : you're gonna melt the glue, and within a few weeks, the shoe will fall apart (and especially with those new chinese "5.10"...)
And the warm water method only works for leather material, cuz good quality microfiber syntethic should not stretch
Putting them in the oven will mess with the glue that holds the sole on
I normally break them in by climbing in them.
you"re so core, I bet you climb trad!
Why not just half a size bigger if you're going to stretch them. Otherwise just tolerate the blood sweat and tears of breaking them in. Walk around the house and garden in them they will soon give.
Conclusion, left foot is a big smaller than the right and nothing happened at all. hmm properly not, but we will never know
I try to buy shoes that fit comfortably. My gym lets me try them on and climb a little. I wear the same size as my street shoe.
those usually stretch out to a point where they are no longer snug enough to step on tiny edges
@@snador oddly enough, I've never had that happen.
I just got a new pair of Ocun Jett QC, super comfy in the store, same size as my street shoes too. First day at the crag was a nightmare 😢
@@RobouVideos Ocun uses a different sizing than other shoes i think, they recommend you to buy the same size because they just already do the shoe smaller for you. I did exactely what you did with Ocun Bullit and they hurt my feet as hell. But since they are really soft shoes I think they'll strech a lot and they will be perfect after some time.
@@adamrendl8026 I feel sorry for you and hope it willl be ok :(
Before my JettQC pair of shoes size 41.5 for the crag, I also bought the BULLIT, size 42 for indoor climbing and I am truly happy: I never had such a good and comfy pair of shoes. That's why I wanted to have another pair of Occun
How did you size the NIAD?
Redesign of the Anasazi, and fit is quite the same except a little more heel tension. These are flat thus nothing extreme sizing wise, half a US size for a tight fit or a full size for further tension. Those shown are the Niad VCS, the lace are also released and are stiffer thus half a size should be fine, while the mocc needs the full size to stay well on the foot.
This is horrible advice. These methods can ruin your shoes depending on the material they're made of. Maybe put up a disclaimer or somethig
Where are you, the view is gorgeous!
Chamonix area ;)
the point is that you have 2 foot with different size...
left is different
right is different
And that is normal!
Using different feet as a test isn’t a good idea as most people have different sizes left and right slightly
ok where does she live??? those mountains!!!
Load your shoes up in your armpits for 20minutes before you climb, makes the rubber soft as kitten skin.
🧐 Adidas is coming out with suggestions on shoe sizing because they murdered 5:10
I love her
so both righty shoes felt tight and the 2 left felt better? great control.... next time, have the control and all expermiental shoes on the same foot. ZERO chance of both feet being the exact same size and shape.
I tried to put my feet in plastic with water in the fridge, it didn't work, i think i misunderstood
What kind of sorcery is this? I literary got my new (too small) shoes today.
I buy my shoes small they fit better but hurt a little more
@@Eliv537 Me too, but this time, a bit too much. :p
@@rasmusskinlo8567 what shoes?
@@Eliv537 Scarpa Drago
@@rasmusskinlo8567 I also wear dragos. Mine are a 41 and I’m a 43.5
Ha come on most people have one foot slightly bigger than the other. To have the control shoe on one foot only is inconclusive, unless all the other shoes are on the same foot.
We got it, Adidas fucked up big. Imagine how badly they butchered 5.10 if you have to grill your shoes in the oven. I ordered 4 consecutive sizes and still didn't manage to put it on. Scarpa it goes.
Tell me you watch Avatar without telling me you watch Avatar
I sell climbing shoes, 99% of the people i sell shoes to have 1/4 or more difference. YES YOU WILL NOTE THAT MINUTE DIFFERENCE since climbing shoes are so tight. This was more a fun little test but not accurate at all. Best method is a warm shower and newspaper. Look it up if you're not familiar.
Not a five ten sponsored video but it actually is haha
Just the natural variation in shoe manufacturing invalidates this testing method.
Dont heat glued shoes in oven peepz. Never. That's how you unglue glue. So dont.
let me guess, her left foot is a bit smaller than the right? 🤣
Control is air
Im hear for Teresa
Clearly her right foot is bigger than the left lol
The easiest, quickest, more efficient and secure way to "break in" a new climbing shoe is to heat up the upper part using a hairdryer. DON'T use it on the lower part in order to avoid possible damage to the sole!
Freezer is useless 😒, water/wet method ruins the shoe and oven could damage the sole/glue sole 🙄
If you’re having problems breaking a shoe like this, you’re doing something wrong in the first place
Would of been cool to see the the shower method 😅
😁🤣🤣😂🤩😍😍🥰🥰, 1:54 in an Cressing 🤩, loving the type of direction, funny as fuck , yet on a serious note... 😉☺👏👏👏🤙🙌🙌🦾🦿. My apologies, I shal continue watching but already know this is the bollocks. Get in there T & all involved. Super .... Bravo 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 xx
This is absolute horrible advice. Just learn how to buy the proper size and they should stretch a bit naturally. No need for any of this nonsense.
I've just bought my first climbing shoe. And its shape is quite agressive: asymmetrical with downturn. Its half a size down from my street shoe size. But it makes my little toes hurt while standing because they push against the insides of the rubber part. I wonder if shoes will stretch in this area? Also I've managed to put on the same shoe a whole size down from my regular so I figured that the one I got should be good. They are made from leather btw.
@@idanil016 Shoes will expand and conform to your foot a little (my guess is 1/2 size up). You will also get used the the pressure in time and maybe even prefer the firm feeling. Especially on smaller holds. I would say have patience and use them as often as you can. Also slip them off during rests to minimize pain. Good luck!
They are called trainers, not sneakers.
They're called different things all around the world
@@adampnewsome Welcome to the wonderful world of the English language, invented by the English.
The best way is the old way, wear them while you climb and endure the pain, don’t be a sissy.
Another Teresa video. She does not come off well in front of the camera. Tone of voice, body language when talking and the way she eyes the camera come off as unpleasant and it´s overall impression is extremely incongruent. Used to like the cannel, wanted to watch this video for the info....but she is so incongruent in her delivery of the message that my gut feeling just tells me i can´t trust anything she says and I rather watch something else. Has been a great channel for a while. I just can´t understand the thought process behind putting Teresa in front of the camera. The "it" factor of a good tv host is not there at all....more like the opposite. Do not really want to shit on Teresa but she is not well suited for being a tv-show host. Maybe you could send her on a crash course in how to deliver a congruent message, but i think that she is so bad that you should opt for a replacement since Hugo is not coming back. How did the people working on the channel think when screening and recruiting the new host? Seems like you either need to fire the person in on your "HR department"... or actually hire someone who knows what they are doing. Sorry Teresa... do not take it personal, this is a skill that can be learned...so there is still a chance for you in the future. You can improve a lot with training and consciously making a effort. That will be very useful in all aspects of life, not just in front of the camera. But at the moment it´s really really bad, total incongruence in tone of voice, body language/facial expression & eye contact synchronization. Sorry for the rant but i just cant stand seeing the show make such a blunder and fall into decline without giving my opinion on how to fix it. Sorry Teresa... you are probably a great person, this is just not for you.
get a life fooo
@@tristanwood829 Lmao, i live a very fulfilling life. How about yourself...?
ruclips.net/video/ySix1puDlCQ/видео.html
It’s funny when people think their opinions are facts... and in the process reveal a lot about themselves.
If the presenter/Epic are reading this - I, and I’m sure many others, think the presenting was great. 🙌
You sound pretty angry about something that is really not a big deal.
Personally I think she's great.
I think maybe she's just a little shy. She's getting more comfortable I think