Should You Buy A Pair Of Beginners Climbing Shoes? | Climbing Daily Ep.1380
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2024
- See all our beginner's shoes: bit.ly/2OlQQge
On today's Gear Show we are having a look at beginner shoes. We're looking at what makes a beginner's shoe, the features available and the pros and cons of it. This show will give you a guide to buying your first pair of shoes and give you some tips on when it's time to upgrade.
Beginner's Shoes
Black Diamond Momentum: bit.ly/2OiGf5E
La Sportiva Gecko Gym: bit.ly/2OirVdi
EB Neo: bit.ly/2OipqaY
Intermediate Shoes
Black Diamond Zone: bit.ly/2Or7ICl
La SPortiva Otaki: bit.ly/2OiWu2n
Scarpa Vapor V: bit.ly/2Olo7If 
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After the 3rd climbingsession I bought my first pair of climbingshoes. A absolute classic. the La Sportiva Tarantula, they last for about 9 months before they got holes at the toes. Than I changed to the La Sportiva Katana, both are really great shoes in their category.
La Sportiva Katana can be used longer than 9 months ?
Sometimes i cant understand how fast some ppls destroy shoes. They lastet 14 Months for me (still in good shape but the edges are gone)
I think the fit on the first pair of shoes is the most important thing as it's a key aspect of the entire experience. A beginner doesn't always know what's too loose or too tight. If you did a poll on, 'Did you get the right shoe the first time?' you'll get a lot if interesting anecdotes.
Buying from a shop where someone's on hand to give a newbie time and advice is a must IMHO.
I have climb for 10 years and I still using beginning climbing shoes, Scarpa origin. They are perfect to warm up with and to use when my feet hurt after using my bouldering shoes too long. I would not be without them and I also have a pair that is one size bigger for multi pitch climbing.
Just getting back into indoor climbing after 3 years away my beginners shoes feels like my advanced and my advanced feels like torture ; )
Yeah, scarpa origin are my favorites as well for everything. Yes, I feel a difference when using my smaller scarpa vapors but the boost isnt worth the pain most of the time. So, I dont get the fuss as well
Scarpa Origins here as well, downsized 1 full size. I'm a v4-v6 climber and just recently picked up some La Sportiva Theorys to use in the gym and see how a more agressive shoe feels. I tried 1 size down but they were too tight, so went 1/2 size down. The Origins are an excellent all around shoe, but they lack toe rubber for good toe hooks.
I'm a beginner, still going with rental shoes. But now i'm sure i want to "upgrade" to beginner shoes. Thanks for the tipps.
Always exited when a new video comes out :)
The most notable difference. Feels super nice
i actually started with scarpa vapor v and i really love them alot. I can wear them for hours without having to take them off, but at the same time they give me plenty of control and self confidence on the wall. I recently bought scarpa dragos specificly as a high end bouldering shoe too and between those two shoes i have everything i could want from my climbing shoes.
Cheers for the information mate! Brother and I are getting into bouldering and this helped get some footwear for us!
La Sportiva Mythos is/was my first shoe. I'm a new climber (inspired by Magnus) and ended up going for a shoe 2.5 sizes (us) down from my normal shoe. I've very much enjoyed them and found the fit to be "tight but right" its a nice leather and molds to the foot well.
I was also inspired Magnus!
Love me some Mythos
Super helpful. I'll watch it again when I need new shoes, thanks!
This was such a clear and informative video! Thank you!
Great video Matt!
I bought my first pair about 4 years ago. LaSportiva Tarantula on sale at 50quid. They have just developed a 2mm hole in the right toe. I've probably had about a years worth of breaks for injuries, life etc from a twice a week climbing average indoors and a bit outside on grit. I'm considering my options for an upgrade but also a bit of a diy repair to the toe too.
These have been great shoes, they owe me nothing and I'd recommend them for any beginners if they fit their feet. I could wear mine all day long.
My first pair of shoes were the La Sportiva Tarentula. I tried upgrading to the new Boreal Ninja's, but they were to small, (Definitely not for wide feet). I'm planning on getting a pair of So ill New Zone's, sometime this week!!!
God Bless You Guy's, and Your Family's, and Your Channel's!!!
Awesome video, I've been climbing about a year and looking for something a little more aggressive now (i have a pare of tarantulas at the minute) one piece of advice i've been given and a pro to buying a beginner shoe is to keep bringing it and keep using it on sessions, warm up, easier climbs and anything you don't need a better shoe for essentially.. all saves rubber on a more expensive investment.
Still on my beginners after 4 months. La Sportiva Tarantulas. Fantastic shoe.
Trying out my Vapor Vs for the first time today. Been climbing on some second hand unknown Red Chilis for over a year, felt like time to upgrade!
I use my BD "beginner" shoes for warm up and routes with slightly bigger holds, they are very comfortable and are not to expensive. Only change to my " high perfomance" shoe when the route requires. Since they are not very comfortable and cost more.
Hopefully saving some money in the long run and have a more comfortable climbing experience.
My first pair of own shoes were the La Sportiva Miura VS. I sized them up from my normal street size because back then there was no way I'd comfortably fit in a downsize. 3 Years later I'm still using them as my overall/comfy shoes. They perform well on nearly everything except toe-hooks. If I'd buy them again I'd maybe go half a size down, but that's it. They've become flat and they're super comfy to wear for long duration without losing on performance.
Great super excited for this video
What a Great video! Your advice on climbing shoes for beginners was really helpful. I now feel more confident in starting with beginner-level shoes and working my way up to intermediate as I progress. Thanks for the guidance!
My first pair of shoes were the 5.10 Rogue about 10 years ago. After a year and a half I upgraded to the 5.10 Anasazi laces version, which I have used for many years. Since I now love Bouldering I just bought a pair of La Sportiva Solutions wms and loved my first session on them!
super helpful! started climbing around 5/6 months ago at the local gym, shoe hire only 3 quid but exactly as you said super baggy, slippy all in all not great quality. Just the other day built up the balls to go out and grab some of my own, Boreal Jokers. Beyond happy with the fit and feel, video put my mind completely at ease about this new hobby I'm excited to get more into. Thanks so much!
I got myself LaSportiva Finale when I started climbing and switched to Scarpa Vapor V later. Now I am back with the Finale for most of my indoor sessions and multi-pitch routes outdoor because they are just so much more comfortable to wear.
Finale's are great for both beginner's and intermediates. Probably the only good beginner's shoe from LaSportiva but so many people don't realize it's suitable for beginners, probably due to its very slight downturn and asymmetry, and end up buying tarantulaces. It's also their only beginner's shoe that uses decent rubber (vibram).
I rented for a few weeks and got a discounted pair of the BD momentum laces. In my eyes I thought they were flawless. I upgraded to the Five Ten Teams and they destroyed my feet when i first got them but now fit like a glove. I don’t think I would’ve been able to handle it if My first pair were as aggressive as the teams.
Side note, my friend went straight from rentals to the La Sportiva solutions and after a few weeks of getting used to them, fell in love and will never go back.
I've been using my climb X rave for about 2 years. Decent shoe that uses x-grip rubber.
Downside: toe box can be uncomfortable
My first climbing shoes was edlinger climbing shoes, I was very old-school on the cliff!
I had the BD momentum lace up suggested to me for more of a beginners shoe over the Velcro option I love them been using them 2-3 times a week from mid summer until now both outdoors and indoor and they have held up wonderfully will be upgrading in the spring
Very useful video!
I’m a beginner and a friend recommended me going directly for intermediate shoes. However, at the local climbing shop I was told to start with beginners’ shoes, so I bought the Scarpa Helix (women). I haven’t used them yet because I was unsure if maybe I should have followed my friend’s recommendation, but after watching your video I feel much more confident about my choice. They are quite snuggled but still comfortable.
Started with some Scarpa Origin and they took me to V4-V5 after a year of climbing 3 to 5 times a weeks. It was the perfect timing to change and since i realize i like overhang problem a lot pick up a pair of Skawma.
Great information, nice video.
I had some Mad Rock Flash as my beginner shoe; I quickly upgraded via an REI Garage Sale to some Shamans (that in hindsight were too small). Yet, next Garage Sale I found some the right size--and I also found some Black Diamond Aspects that I love for sport and slab. If you can find some gently used/like new climbing shoes for a great price, I say get them within a short time frame of getting your beginner shoes.
1987 a pair of B4 technicals. Used em (resoled a few times) until 1990 when I got a pair of Runouts... never really got on with them so switched to Boreal Vectors... they were my favourite shoe ever and had loads... then switched to La Sportiva Muiras and have had several pairs of those. Have now switched down to a super comfy pair of Tarantulaces... ideal for an old codger on long easy multi pitch routes.
I’ve been climbing for 3 months now and just bought a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulas. I was at the point where I noticed all the faults of the hire shoes and needed something that was tailored to my feet and could trust my feet a lot more
I started with the Boreal Joker (15+ years ago), happily climbing V5/6 indoors, E1 5b outdoors in them, as was said the fit for me is spot on, just got some La Sportiva Otaki's as an extra pair, loving both pairs but for very different terrain.
Thanks that was a very useful video ! I just started climbing and bought some very basic shoes for about 30£ at Decathlon. Looking forward to buying a more advanced pair at some point.
Hi Florentin. Are the shoes comfortable? please share your review... thank you!
I've had my velcro momentums for nine months of 2-3 times a week use and had no problem with stretching or any faults to speak of at all.
I've had mine for about a year and half, and I didn't noticed that they stretched until I bought new shoes (incidentally, the 5.10 blancos). They have held up really well, though, and don't look beat up at all, just chalky. My main issue with them is that the rubber is just... not sticky enough. I don't know if that's from wear over time, over just the holds at my gym being particularly old and slick, but my blancos are way stickier at this point.
I started climbing almost 10 months ago now. I went once to my local gym, and climbed, next visit I bought shoes and membership. I bought butoras, but I forgot the name of the shoe (green beginner Velcro). I used it for around 2 months before buying TC pros, and absolutely loving them. I knew they were an advanced shoe, but I felt much more foot confident and really just felt like I looked cool. I have since bought skwarmas and am starting to like them after a long 3 months.
I bought my 1st pair of climbing shoes Tenaya Ra. I like them even if they pinch my big toe if I wear them to long.
I’ve had the BD Momentum lace-ups AND Velcro for the past 2 years. I love both with no socks! The BD Zones, while more snug where they should be as a more advanced shoe, have a loose heel for some reason. Gotta wear socks in those.
Evolv Defy -> ~1.5 years before switching to Evolv Shamans (that I got too big because I wasnt used to the pain associated with aggressive shoes) and now the Evolv Oracles sized much more closely. I tend to advise new climbers to get something comfortable. Like Matt said, at the beginning there is a lot to learn and it can all get overwhelming, especially when you add the complexities of climbing shoe purchasing and features new folks don't really understand yet. I tend to try and recommend a more intermediate shoe, like Vapor V , so there is room to grow as the climber's skill grows, and they can resole as the rubber wears out the first year or so.
Started climbing in Scarpa Helix.
Just got a pair of La Sportiva Otaki.
Can't wait to wear em to the gym.
Already wearing them at work.
They're sharp!!!!
Not as comfortable as the Helix, but they look very nice!!!
I slept in my first pair.
I started climbing about 5 years ago, only manage to go 1-2 times per week.
Currently still using the same pair 5 years on, Red Chili Sausalito. Not entirely sure how they're still going strong but will be getting a more aggressive style soon to suit my climbing style.
Still a beginner, just started a month ago and using the tenaya tanta. My right foot is bigger than my left and I think I might have gone too big to compensate for my left foot. The tantas have stretched out quite a bit now. Looking forward to my next pair of climbing shoes!
First shoe I bought was the la sportiva tarantula, mostly because it was comfortable and I wasn’t sure if climbing would be something I’d get really passionate about. That was about a year and a half ago, and I’m still using them for warning up/traversing.
However, I upgraded once I started climbing really regularly last year to the la sportiva skwama, and I’ve definitely felt a difference in my confidence on small holds and heel hooks.
I think it’s a good idea to get a beginner shoe, as if you don’t get really into climbing it’s not such an investment, but even if you do they make for great warm up shoes that will extend the life of the more high performance model you buy afterwards.
a always use mocs or trantulas to warm up before I crank out my aggressive bouldering shoes
My channel is devoted to 'trying new things', and part of that is finding great resources of information. This breakdown was soooooo helpful, with actual links to shoes you've talked about and the pros and cons. Really helped to start relating theory to the shop catalogues. Thank you very much.
My first pair of shoes were the Boreal Silex. I used them for about six months and they were awesome. Comfortable and adjustable due to the lacing. Then I changed and bought the Scarpa Vapor V and they are absolutely perfect for me...
any chance you can talk about approach shows and if they are need?
My first shoes were some Decathlon own brand (very popular based on what I see at my gym). They served me very well at the time but as I improved and upgraded to a well-fitting Vapour V I now see them as spongy and far too loose. I've heard the Vapour V's have a wider sole for those of us with hobbit feet, and the downturn gave me a lot of confidence on the tiny footholds. My only negative was that the heel pinch really hit me hard for the first few sessions, creating a few blisters. But once they got warm and moulded to my feet they now fit like a dream. Fit is so so key
My first climbing shoes are La Sportiva Skwama and I quite like them.
My very first climbing shoe it still is the Mad Rovk Flash 2.0, for me does everything exceptionally well , from heel hooks to stand on crimps and so on, amazing shoe and very confiable when they break in
I use the La Sportiva Katana now for the most part but I still have my Scarpa Helix shoes for when I am at the gym for an entire day. Point is I find it’s best to have a pair of both for maximum enjoyment.
My first shoe was the 5.10 Anasazi, but I have added the 5.10 Team VXI for when I need something a little more aggressive. Those two have worked really well for me. Thinking about adding a third to the rotation, but I’m not sure which ones. Hoping to stay in the 5.10 family. Suggestions?
Adidas 5.10 Kiragamis. Bought them after my 4th session bouldering and was helped with fitting by the brilliant people at the climbing hangar in Plymouth, cant reccomend the shoes or the climbing centre enough. The new Exeter Climbing hangar is also amazing.
Good explanation of differences in the shoes. My beginner shoes are Tenaya. I've used Scarpas but I find the Tenaya more comfortable and the sole of the Tenayas seem to help better with smearing and volumes.
Edit: or maybe because the Tenayas are more comfortable I can put more pressure on my feet.
Do you mind sharing which model you have?
@@machine_yearning_ Hi, of course, here are the details.
The Tenayas are Tenaya Tanta, and the rubber style is M4.
The Scarpas are Instinct VSR 70015-000 (model/serial number).
I kept the boxes. I mostly wear the Scarpas now as they fit me as even my feet lost weight since I started climbing.
I started climbing with rentals and got good enough to where i noticed that my feet kept slipping off using the crappy rentals. This was around V3’s. I decided to get my first pair of shoes and i went with the Evolv Nighthawks. First pair of shoes really changed climbing for you. I would recommend going with beginner shoes unless you have good rentals at your local gym
Hey Matt, I really think you should learn more about the anatomy of a climbing shoe. For instance, the midsole is what is between the upper and the outsole. What you usually refer to as the midsole is actually a split outsole.
Excellent!!
Started out with the Miura VS by La Sportiva, quite aggressive but was never an issue for me. I actually switched to the tenaya mundakas, an even more aggressive and soft shoe. Its all preference
I went for some mid range La Sportiva shoes mostly because at size 48 it was pretty hard to find. The very first time I climbed, I was wearing vans haha and the very second one, I was wearing the climbing shoes. All outdoors sport climbing so lots of learning and patience from my belayer.
About 2 months into climbing I went from my lasportiva nago to a solution and they’ve lasted me almost a year and they still look fairly new despite climbing 2-3 times a week
I just upgraded from my beginners shoe. But I did love them and think they were a great purchase 🤷♂️
RUclips's Hard what shoes did you get
Personally my first pair of climbing shoes are la sportiva skwamas and i still use them and love them
I started out with a pair of La Sportiva Tarantula and rocked those for about 3 months before i switched to a pair of Skwama's. I have now climbed those for about 2 and a half months. Now im thinking about switching to a stiffer model, like the Solution or maby even the 5.10 Blanco.
A trick I've used with my La Sportiva Tarantulaces: as it slowly begins to stretch and gets bigger, I wear thin socks inside of them. Because I don't want to spring for new shoes while my tarantulaces are still usable, I just change the thickness of the socks as my shoes grow.
I would agree with you if the shoes were a full size too big, but really there are just a couple extra millimeters of growth. The thin socks prevent me from moving around too much in the shoe, but they're still thin enough that I can feel where the holds are. Thank you for your concern.
I bought the Scarpa Origins as my first shoe and climbed with them for nearly a year and a half 2-3 times a week. I found that once I reached 5.12a, some of the foot chips were too small for my shoes. Upgraded to the La Sportiva Muira VS for the next 4 years (2 pairs). Now I rock two shoes, the La Sportiva Finale and the La Sportiva Kataki. 90% of the time I wear my Finale's but when I hard problem comes around I'll put on the Kataki's for much better performance. Also, the Kataki's are signed by Alex Honnold so it makes me climb extra hard :D
I got a loose second hand pair for my first shoe, then “borrowed” another pair or two from the lost property bin, then bought a proper pair of shoes
Quick note is the Blancos are not flat but feature a tremendous amount of aggressive fitting but little (not none) downcamber. The idea of a shoe before aggressive due to strictly a downturned profile is one of these surface level ideas in climbing shoe fits.
Just a heads up the “Black Diamond” tag that pops up at 3:15 is misspelled
Todd Gunzenhauser misspelt
I rented the first few times and it's just incredibly frustrating how little that rubber holds on to anything, so I upgraded but then tore through my LaSportiva Tarantulaces in a month. I got some super aggressive scarpa's which was too soon and didn't fit the type of slab climbing I was doing at the time. Picking the right shoe for the job and addressing problems in gym is clever. I got TC Pro's for my outdoor climbing but then struggles in the gym, now I have Scarpa Vapor Instincts for indoors and really like them
my first shoes were the 5.10 spire, i really liked them, but i bought them too early, before i understood about toe crimping, and how much suede uppers stretched, so they ended up being too big. still used them for ages, though
I am only now starting to feel my beginner climbing shoes and see the advantages of climbing shoes. I have just bought a pair of miura vs as an encouragement to get better. I'm not going to wear them until the next season. :) gosh they're beautiful!
I recently bought my first pair. They're the La Sportiva trantulace. I like that they come in lace so I can control how tight (and uncomfortable) I want them to be. They fit perfectly well. I can wear them almost all the time I'm climbing without feeling so much discomfort. I'd say they're great beginner shoes. Although they haven't been much help when I've been attempting a heel or toe hook.
Yeah, they’re really terrible for heel hooks. I started climbing in them and only after graduating to a more moderate shoe did I realize how bad the Tarantulaces are for doing more advanced moves.
Started bouldering in august, and bought Evolv Defy, and besides the stinkiness of them, they have been pretty great, however i am considering buying some more downturned shoes now that im climbing around 6a-6b. Any suggestions?
how are the Drones for a second pair of climbing shoes? I am looking at the Kubo also but it just seems so similar to my tarantulace for a higher price.. It feels like there is a lack of review about both of theses
Been climbing 3 years. Have owned shoes made by Scarpa, Tenaya (Mundaka, an excellent shoe) and 5.10. I am now climbing in Simond "Vertika" slipper shoe from Decathlon and it is the best shoe I have owned. Very comfortable, precise, grippy, and affordable. I will buy another pair (perhaps 0.5 size smaller) when these are worn out.
I'm a beginner, climbing V3/ 5.10b. my first pair was the black diamond momentum. They are comfortable and flexible and they stretch, so naturally I needed to upgrade quickly. My new shoes are La sportiva Miura. They are so much better than momentums. I climb on my cinder block garage and my toes hold on the grout lines. Awesome shoes. If you progress quickly, momentum might not be the best choice.
first shoe was the Ocun Crest lace, thought it was a good shoe back then but didnt really have anything to compare it to. I think it lasted a good 6 months of indoor abuse, upgraded to the Scarpa Techno X and im on my 2nd pair of those because I really like them although that said I am looking to upgrade again so open to suggestions
Don't ever, ever forget la sportiva Mythos...the Name is self explaining
I was gonna say, where's the mythos love. Ended up being my first shoe and I don't regret it at all.
Also my first shoe and I wore them a year! Still the best fitting climbing shoe I ever had
Great ones. Time for me to change them though.
Sent my first V6 in them recently. No doubt a great comfortable shoe.
Mythos is my first climbing shoes I have them for 8 plus years and still going strong. Haven’t worn through the rubber yet. Love them
Been climbing in the BD Momentums since June both indoors & outdoors and even though I bought a pair of kataki's surfing autumn I still wear the Momentums most often. They're just comfortable and I like the smearing on softer soles. I've had people point out that they're a beginner shoe and yet I'm climbing V7. At the end of the day the shoe doesn't make the climber.
after a month on rental shoes i went in for scarpa varpour v's as i took to the sport quite naturally. they served me well but all ready dead after 6 months! currently breaking in a pair of unparallel vegas 🥳 been bouldering for almost a year.
I climb with Red Chili Sausalitos which were my first shoe. I mainly got them as they were virtually the only shoe I could find in 2008 that fit a UK size 12 - even then my shoes are a 13! Still climb with them now (I've had a few gaps in my climbing life for various reasons)
Super informative video. I would add , go to a local outdoor sport shop and pick some peoples brains there! I climbed in trainers my first time (no shoe rental available) and knew it was for me. So I went to my local snow and rock and spent nearly an hour talking to a guy there. He measured my feet (turns out I'm 1.5 sizes smaller than i thought) and talked to me about all the different options for my prefered style. Ended up with some red chilli shoes in the mid price range and have found i can send v3 problems now in less than a month of bouldering! :)
After renting shoes for the first month of climbing and getting done my first 6A/V3 I realised I wasn't terrible at climbing and decided to buy my first shoe. Due to being super motivated after I just dont my first 6A I went straight for an intermediate shoe in the Tenaya Ra. Now after 6 Months they are basically done for and I need new shoes. I don't regret buying them because the fact that they were slightly downturned forced me to improve my footwork quickly. I noticed bad foot placement immediately and good foot placement felt so much better than they did in the rental shoes.
I kept climbing 6As and V3s for a couple of months before getting my first 6B/V4 done and I am not sure I would have had the same progression with beginner shoes. I guess I'll never know :)
I bought the La Sportiva Tarantula's when I started rope climbing, they were very good for that. Since then I switched to bouldering and I don't like them anymore :( I also feel like they're not as tight anymore, but what I'm really annoyed about is they're just not really good for any small foothold.. Especially with the lack of tightness!
Got the la sportiva tarantulace as my first pair and loved them! Fit my feet much better than the evo shoes our gym rented out. However, they stretched out Very quickly, so I am looking at getting a slightly more advanced shoe maybe this summer. I'd love to try some black diamonds :D
I just bought some tarantulace and they're great but super tight, so I hope they'll stretch a bit, so that's good to hear.
Got my first beginner pair a few months ago. Caught a great deal on Black Friday for the Evolv Elektra’s and they’re serving me well so far. Haven’t taken them outdoors yet but I will in a few weeks so I’ll see how that goes. I climbed in rentals for a few months because I’m a broke college kid. I’ll probably climb in these shoes until they start falling apart for the same reason.
Em...I was into sports before so I got to V4-V5 within a couple of months. I used the FREE gym's rental shoes then upgraded to intermediate shoes as my first shoes. As you said, fit is the most important so try a bunch of sizes on. I got the La Sportiva Kubo and I love them!
Started with a pair of cheap shoes from Decathlon (Simond Rock+) which lasted OK until they got a hole in them a few months in. They're not economical to repair so I upgraded to the La Sportiva Finale which is serving me very well.
Yo! You guys should make a video about large climbing shoes. I'm UK men's 13 in my normal shoes and I can only climb for long durations in my la sportive tarantulas. I have another pair too but they were the only other pair I could find to fit and I always have to go back down to the tarantulas halfway through a session.
So, my first pair of shoes was something cheap from Decathlon with about 2 EU numbers over my aproach shoes they felt good for 2 weeks but then they got preety loose... so after another 2 weeks of climbing in (almost) flip flops, I wanted a new pair.
I went to my loclal climbing gym and asked the “boss” to help me in buying a new intermediate pair and I got my actual all araund shoes, the Ocun Jett QC, I actually like them but they are not so sticky and not so great toe hooking, but for what I need right now they are just fine :)
For the 3rd pair I’d like to buy some 5.10s, I got some nice reviews from the guys in the gym about them!
Any thoughts on Triop Tango? I bought them primarily for indoors, mostly bouldering. Compared to other shoes they were an amazing fit for my feet, plus, they were cheap. I've used them twice so far and I'm quite happy with them, so far I've only used Ocun Rebel QC.
Where might I ask are the UK’s best shops for range of technical outdoor climbing shoes? I live in Scotland, and have found few aggressive shoes in the retailers’ ranges (plenty of ‘soft slippers’ for jumping around on volumes). I prefer to try on shoes in store. I will be driving through London, Birmingham and Manchester…
Is that Steve McClure climbing at around 3:45 ? And what route is he on? I've seen that route in another Epic TV video
My first shoes was the Miura 😍
Recently bought a pair of Boreal Diabolos for my first climbing shoes. Also tried Millet's Easy Ups, but they did feel too comfortable to be serious =)
I only do indoor bouldering and went straight for an intermediate shoe (unfortunately a lace-up, which didn't suit me very well), then to a beginners shoe, which I love, but unfortunately, the are a bit big for me after they've stretched. I love them, but they don't inspire much confidence due to the looseness.
I am currently using a more downturned, technical pair, which is still very uncomfortable and it is holding back my skill development a bit.
Maybe I will switch to a beginner or intermediate shoe in a better size, ad keep the advanced shoes for when my skill surpasses the simpler shoes.
So I'm reading that La Sportiva Mythos is really good. (I'm a starter, few months.) Or should I go for the gecko? But the only store near me that sells shoes have the Scarpa Origin. (I can drive a city over for the Sportivas.) Any suggestions are fully appreciated!
Ive been climbing for 3 months now and got to v6-v7 ish . Im using the scarpa primes , a pair I bought for 60 euros. Im thinking of upgrading soon to the butora narsha's since they fit me well and match my 100 euro budget
Another great video! This is a long post so sorry, but here is my full experience and full opinion if you wish to read it.
Here's my opinion:
I am a very new climber. I was, and still am, not in great shape, couch potato if you will. But I loved climbing and had a few friends who were into it. I knew I would be very weak with grip and pull strength, and boy was I. I got a pair of La sportiva Tarantulas, as everywhere I read said they were a great beginner shoe. I love them. I actually got them a bit smaller than I think a very beginner should go. An advanced climber is probably used to smashing your toes like that, but dear god did they hurt. I did everything thing I read to stretch them like shower with them, freeze bags of water in them, blast them with the hair dryer, etc. Probably things you shouldn't do with an expensive pair. It was 2 weeks of this before I could actually stand to even step on the wall with them (bouldering).
BUT, once I was able to do a few sessions in them, it is now my opinion that they fit absolutely perfectly! Love the fit now! I prefered the experience of going through this because I learned so much about how to work with the fit of the shoe and kind of how the shoes operate. I think climbing in them for very beginners are perfect for the reasons you outlined. You are just there to learn the basics and just to figure this whole climbing thing out for the first few months. My next shoe may be a bit of a step up once the techniques are learned a bit more.
Maybe if you are already in decent shape and have the strength when starting, then maybe an intermediate shoe would be fine. But for someone like me, working out for the first time in a very long time, the price, learning curve, durability, is absolutely fine with the beginner shoes. I am glad I went this way for my first shoe.
And for what it is worth, I give the Tarantula 5/5 for the type of shoe it is.
Thank you.
I started reading and thought it was about me tbh :')
After renting shoes 3 times or so I decided to get Tarantulas as well, though I got a size smaller than my normal shoes, they hurt less than yours probably. After a year they're starting to get worn down at the tip quite a bit. I would also give them a 5/5. Also your point of getting more advanced shoes when you're physically better than we probably are, is very well said. I myself started literally at 3B, with some 3C's as incredibly difficult projects, but my Tarantulas got me through all of them to 6A right now :)
Good luck with your climbing mate! Glad to see someone going the exact same route as I did is enjoying their shoes the same way.
My beginners shoes are.. still the one I use (over 2 years now), scarpa vapor V. Ok it's not beginner at all, but that is the first time I hear about the "beginner shoe" whole concept.
I'm french so, sry for my english and that's maybe why I didn't know this concept. Not very common in France
scarpa vapor v are very different from beginners shoes - beginners shoes feel extremely imprecise and loose and weak compared to shoes like vapor v.
I started gym climbing about 5 months ago and originally bought the popular beginners shoe Turantulace. I realized after a few sessions that I'd gone too big and when I tried finding a better fit with the Turantulace I just couldn't. The girl helping me suggested trying the Butora Advance and they've been great. I'm primarily into bouldering but they've been good all-round shoes. Seem to withstand a lot of abuse (I go 2-3 times a week) with no sign of major wear yet and flexible. My only regret is that since I'm gym climbing the laces can be a bit of a pain taking them off and on multiple times during a session. I'm considering buying an intermediate pair soon but keeping the Butora Advances handy for warm ups and certain problems. The Mad Rock Drone you mentioned is tempting.