Adam Ondra #17: The Alchemy Of Climbing Shoes
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 май 2024
- Today's episode is this time a little more informative as we will dig deeper into the alchemy of climbing shoes. The notoriously frequent question "why do you climb with two different shoes?" will be answered, as well as much more.
Credits:
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
HEINZ ZAK
MARTIN KAŇŮREK
BERNARDO GIMÉNEZ
JAN ŠIMÁNEK
BEN DITTO
PETR PAVLÍČEK
NICO FAVRESSE
Post Production
ADAM LIGOCKI / FILMUNIT.CZ
Executive producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Thumbnail Picture
PAVEL KLEMENT
© 2019 AO Production s.r.o. 
Спорт
Please can you make a video on what scream to use when climbing different rock surfaces?
I am dying.
@@narakarrarr6191 help is on its way, sorry I’m late
HAHAHA
A soundtrack over it would be good. I just tried watching one and had to change it. Neighbors probably thought I was dying or someone was in danger.
Probably it would be 18+ video because of swearing
Its worth the fun you can have while climbing
*cuts to Adam screaming in pain*
Muscles burning is just weakness leaving your body :D
He's not screaming in pain, it's actually a way to coax out more strength from your muscles. Kind of like kiai in martial arts. It compresses the chest and increases core strength for short bursts.
@@Stupidiusity thanks always wondered what the use of it is
@@Stupidiusity so the face he does while holding a tiny crack and trying to pull is the part of it? :-D
@@hakimESC I guess that's part of it hahaha, yes
44 to a 39.5, so that's why adam is always screaming while climbing
I go 46 to 41.5. It is worth it for a hard redpoint. I train in 44's
I go from 39 to 40... sometimes 41. But I use socks and don't do 8's or 9's :D
The size difference sounds more extreme than it actually is.
Exactly what I wanted to comment 😂👌
@@Mike-oz4cv it really doesn't. I wear 44 street which is the same as ondra.and I wear a 43 in Solutions... I have no idea how he can downsize to a 40 - I can't even get my foot into a 42.5. That's absolutely ludicrous
Still waiting for an episode about your streching routine :)
lets upvote this guy so we can get a video!
Yes please!
Marc Giol that would be amazing
Moar upvotes!
UUP!!
Just thinking that probably for Adam "intermediate climber" means something around 8a-8b
Intermediate is generally starting at 7b
@@AdrienBurg really??? I feel like 7a+ is the start of hard climbing and like 6b would be intermediate
@@killacondor agreed. I feel like anything around 6 is more like intermediate. From what I'm seen and read, it would seem that 7's are more on the lines of expert-ish. I'm no expert, but I don't feel like I'm a beginner either. As much time as I've put into climbing, I feel like I'm intermediate, but everyone has their own opinion. To me, it would seem that anything below a 5.9 would be a beginner.
@@BrannonGlover you're a beginner
@@BrannonGlover no offense but the fidelity of that article disapears when it says 8c+ at bouldering is not superelite, btw intermediate climber talking about just sport climbing, would start in 6c/7a, but this is just my opinion. Although I have 7c redpointed and I feel like a noobie compared with the "stardard" beasts you can find in any crag, but being realistic, 7a requires a good amount of work
2:50 if you just finished a climb and are 3,000' in the air and the very first thing you do is take off your shoes.... they are probably uncomfortable
He may be an incredible climber, but his foot-model career is ruined forever.
Yeah, more climbers need to get sponsorship from athlete's foot creme suppliers.
@@benjamind7290 It's actually not fungus but the toe-pressure that (can) deform the toenails.. It sucks, have it aswell, still no normal toenails after a year of not-climbing..
I'm high as hell and this comment is 10x's as funny. Hahahahahahaha holy shit. Hahahah
Nah man, in the middle East there is huge market for feet models with busted feet like that
Not unless you are a foot model in The Hobbit ;)
The world's best shoe salesman. Great explanations!
With the wrong brand on his feet :-)
Adam Bundy
@@optimusprime7003 And why is La Sporiva the wrong brand?
@@Pedro28725 Bad quality sice 5 more than 5 years. New Models are cheap in Shape... Scarpa, Tenaya and many more are way better the last years 😁
To help everyone out:
Flat & Stiff - Good for toe jams
Downturned & Stiff - Good for verticals with small footholds; Outdoor and non-overhanging
Flat & Soft - Good for speed climbing and lacking precision
Downturned & Soft - Good for steep overhangs
Which one is good for bouldering?
@@demox3500 If you're asking that am I right to assume you're a bit new to the activity? I'd recommend flat and stiff shoes, but you could just as easily do soft as well. If you want to build really good technique and make complicated, fun moves, get stiff shoes. If you just want to send and have fun climbing, go for soft. Downturned shoes are sort of specialized: they're great for some things but not so good for others, whereas flat shoes are perfectly fine for anything you'll be doing. Your shoes won't really be making a big difference until higher grades where you'd rather just swap shoes than train for months to get just a little better for one really hard problem.
Calvin de Clonie Mac Lennan probably flat and stiff for beginners, then flat downturned and stiff once you get more advanced to get a strong grip on those tiny footholds
Why would you want toe jams?
@@jeygee3736 when there's a crack in the wall, you'd want to jam your toes into it for a good grip
I've been climbing for 4 years twice a week, I'm using climbing shoes of my size with socks, It's comfy and never painful.
I've felt progression during my entire experience, I'm currently challenged by 11C, and most importantly I'm having fun.
I don't deny or support fact that undersized can help you climbing better, but it's certainly not a requirement to enjoy the sport or getting better at it.
I've always worn atleast 2 european sizes bigger
Smaller and stiffer will help with smaller and technical foothold which are found on harder climbs
I bought 1 UK size smaller and really struggling. Walking and climbing is so painful. I'm beginner and those shoes are far from comfortable.
Think twice before you do it. Cannot imagine wearing 3-4 size smaller 😮
Youre climbing 11c… with socks… whyyyyy
@@MarysJanuszPazdzioch gotta break them in for about 12 sessions for them to be bearable
Adam comes from the old school climbers, school of thought were you had to downsize like that because good climbing shoes were not really around. Magnus mitdbo 14 times norwegian champion route climber, has a really good video on it, were one of the lead designer of Scarpa actually says it's not necessary anymore because of advancements in the shoes industry and material. For those interested here is the link to that video ruclips.net/video/LR09KDHoFeI/видео.html
As a podiatrist and a big fan, the struggle is real because for a pro climber or someone that really aims 7/8 level in bouldering, taking 2 or 3 shoesize under your regular one is important to feel everything and be totally confident in your feet...
But god it is awfull for your feet in a long term use, articular, muscular catastrophy, once your toes are transforming in hammer-toes there's no way back but surgery, and once the nails start growing thicker, no way back neither so i wouldn't suggest more than minus 1 or 2 shoesize for regular climbers
Do you think you could do some kind of stretching routine for you feet to prevent that or at least combat the effects a bit?
@@rowanferwerda4865 You can and should indeed but i really doubt that few mins of stretching will counter the retraction of tendons escpacially flexor muscles due to climbing shoes. The main problem is that the more you wear it, the more your tendons retracts and your joint stiffen permanantly sometimes so there's no way back after years and years of climbing
It’s also important to take them off between climbs when you start downsizing.
@@tacticalchunder1207 you're absolutely right !
That's what I do. But it's mostly because I have my dad's feet and therefore I easily get ingrown toenails in the big toe. That's why he go to pair is that La Sportiva Mythos because he likes to T.R. but I prefer bouldering so I own a more aggressive pair. But I try and be careful not to agrivate the toe so much. And i always keep an eye on it. But do you habe any tips on how I can help prevent an ingrown toenail with bouldering shoes?
New to the sport, fell in love during the Olympics. The level of enthusiasm this guy brings out is overwhelming.
This is the best content I’ve seen in a while to really capture all the different elements of climbing shoes. Thank you so much!!
Wow this is actually one of the most approachable yet informative (and entertaining) climbing shoe videos I've ever seen. Thank you very much!! Definitely gonna send this one to friends trying to make shoe decisions :)
This is the best climbing shoe I have seen so far and the best information I have ever got even about talking so much times with the sellers in the stores, thank you Adam, it is very kind of you heliping us!! Thumbs up!!
This is by far the most informative shoe selecting video I have seen. Thank you.
This is very open (without an attitude), and therefore very helpful. Thank you 💟
Somehow the climbing montage at the end of this video just made me realise again how much I love climbing - So, thanks for that :)
Mate the production of your videos keeps getting better and better! Good job team Ondra.
Probably the best explanation of climbing shoes on YT
Worth mentioning that sportiva size 2-3 sizes below your street size unlike other companies
Yeah. Don't just buy all your shoes 3-5 sizes below your street shoes just because it works best for Adam and LaSportiva.
yeah, i just got a la sportiva tarantulace and got 2 sizes bigger and my big toe still touches the end a bit
well i just learned its not supposed to feel comfortable
So informative. As always with Adam, so honest too. I like this vid. Thank you.
Best feed back : not to suffer to much : Key here is to have fun and only suffer a little ;) Thanks for posting Adam Ondra.
Helpful, inspiring - stunning! Great video, you are such a nice person👍🏼
Wow! Thank you so much for your explanations!
Glad Adam has this channel! Great tips from the beast himself
Really appreciate your videos,
It's like learning by genius.
very informative! Thank you Adam
Thanks for the explanations, Adam 🙏
Good video Adam...stay strong man
Thanks for making me feel much better about how my toes look.
Adam, you are so inspiring!
Awesome, make me want to start climbing. Looks so fulfilling.
Thanks for video.
Thanks for the info Adam, and I thought my shoes were tight... Looks like I could drop a few sizes, youch. Awesome videos. We are all rooting for you in the Olympics!!
💪😁🎖️
Thank you so much for this video. I have been searching smth like this for a really long time :)
Just getting into the sport and buying my first climbing shoe. This was by far the best explanation of the different types of shoes to choose from
Love to hear that!
Useful comments in the video. Although to add some practicalities. There are quite a few complications with buying shoes. Firstly they do need to be shape that suits your feet, otherwise parts can be tight and other parts too loose, personally I have an issue often with having a large toe and getting a shape where I fill out the heel.
Try a range of shoes to see what works best. Secondly find out if the shoe type stretches and relatively how much. Leather will always stretch but some synthetics hardly stretch at all. With the latter you need them to be comfortable enough from the start. You generally won’t need a top aggressive shoe unless your a really top climber. If you climb in and outdoors it’s probably a good idea to have one stiffer straighter shoe for longer vertical routes and work ok in cracks plus a softer shoe that is a bit turned down for more general bouldering and overhanging routes
This video came to me as if it were fated, I thought “right, time to get my own shoes.. but what do I go for?” RUclips, this video is first on my screen.. thanks dude 👍
Great vid!
love you sark
Does Sark climb? Beast
Great video. Pleas make videos with other climbers it would be such joy to see diffrent (pro) climbers on some neat bolder or climbing problems.
thanks for the advice ! much appreciated
Very informative!
Adam, you are the man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I love his passion
Diky za info. Cheers!!
Love your content Adam.
The plasti-bag tip alone, is worth the price of admission! Thanks.
I am getting into climbing and I wasn't sure about what shoe is better for me until I saw this video. Thank you Adam!
Did you end up getting a size smaller?
"It's worthit for the fun you can have when climbing"
*cuts to belly full of bad berries of all routes*
As a long time climbing store worker i must add:
The choice of size totally depends on the brand of the shoe!!
Every brand manufactures different, especially american brands
Exactly. If you try to downsize in Black Diamond's shoes or Evolv's show as much as you do in La Sportiva's shoes... you ain't even gonna be able to get your foot into the shoes! I've been working in a rock climbing store for almost a decade now.
Can confirm. I wear climbing Scarpas of the same size as my everyday sneakers and boy are they painful.
Wow! Thanks for sharing
I needed this video on shoes!! Thanks 🤙👌
Thanks Adam!
love your channel and break down !!!
Needed to find some info about different shoes and this is super helpful!
Pavel, Its Rob, (who will never Rob you), I met you in Vail, and again, great shooting my friend keep it up :), and Adam, the camera loves you!
Hey Rob, was great meeting you in Vail, thanks for the kind words:)
Road to Tokyo #18 Adam gets a pedicure 😂
není to houba na hřebíku?
super helpful, thanks!
I could watch Adam climb all day long :)
These videos are really informative
Great explained. I climb with the La Sportiva Solution.
I'm not even into rock-climbing but this guy is addictive. Great energy and drive
This video is on point!
cool video - great insight
Adán, eres realmente te admirable. Te saludo desde el Perú
I used to look at routes you climb and think that these are impossible for me but now I think I can work on your routes too
I'm so glad the synthetic shoes and newer construction techniques have reduced stretching, and the amount of break-in needed.
I'm literally on my way to the shop to buy my very first pair of climbing shoes. This video came literally with perfect timing for me.
I have the same approach shoes. Love the model!
Gracias!!!
Watching him climbing those mountains in nothing makes my palms sweaty.
When can we see more of the Dawn Wall climb?
Hi Adam, nice video !
Great idea mixing the shoes up man🦾
Thanks a lot man! Great explanation! Is it possible to discuss chalk and other tricks to keep the hands dry?
use chalk
Super interesting
great episode about such a important topic that you can discuss for hours with climbing friends ;) Adam is so intelligent and analytical and a very very good speaker in front of the camera, still such a sympathetic guy!!!
Btw: awesome footage from Yosemite...will there still be a film about his ascent of Dawn Wall on day??? (waiting so long already!!!)
Nice segment...making a wild foot way!
Thank you for the czechsplanation Adam
To really unlucky boulders this year Adam, and Tomoa really climbed well this season. Can't wait to see you in Lead in july, best of luck!
Noe Naame how correct you were!
I think it depends a lot on the shoes. My normal shoe size is between 43.5 and 44. My usual training shoes are Madrock Flash 2.0. Those are 42.5 (however, I do have a pair that's 42). But my Solutions are 41.5. They are tight for sure, but still. When I tried 42.5 in Solution they were just way too big.
2:40 same place Alex Honnold filmed Free Solo - not sure if it's the same route, but still mind blowing to think about
Yeah lets downsize the Solutions 4 sizes 😂😂 My feet hurt with like 1 Size
That’s why he’s screaming so hard when he climb 🤔😂
I am 3,5 sizes below in Solutions :D
I am currently breaking in a new solution 2.5 sizes down. Its rough
@@ozapenguin how much do they stretch?
@@MrBrennanMatt Solutions usually stretch about a half to a full size, in my experience. I typically went down about 3 - 3.5 when I used them.
i got same size as street shoe its still pretty tight and i like to stay comfortable and not have horrid feet after a looong sessions / i dont wanna be taking my shoes off after every single climb
Woah that’s a lot to think about!
Couldnt have come at a better time, im buying new shoes this week!
Cool thanks a lot! As a beginner i didnt know what to choose...now its much easier... thanks a lot Adam 😁👍
Awesome video @adam. I knew that was because of my shoe that I didn't get this 7a... hahhaaha
Very interesting
Good video
1:26 "Zero chance to get inside" same bro same
Haglar same 😪
Haglar same ;(
Flossy Carter
lmao this killed me 🤣
How did i not no this guy????iv been binge watching him
it may work, sort of, for Scarpa and La Sportiva but don't even think about going 4 sizes down for 5.10 :)
Or BD. I wear a 13US in street shoe...so I bought the Shadow's and Momentums in 12US to check them out...agony.
Doesn't work for Scarpa. At least not for me. I have 44 at my (Scarpa) streets shoes and 44/45 at my climbin shoes, depending on the shoe I use. Nowadays I only use Scarpa because they fit the form of my feet very well.
At La Sportiva I used at 39 to 41.
Doesn't work for Scarpa either ;)
Alex
for scarpa i downsized from 44 to 42.5 and had huge trouble getting them on. but i didnt need any help from a plastic bag so maybe they were too loose after all :(
La Sportiva advertisement at its best :D
Exactly xD
I don't know... for sure he have to use La sportiva and he have to show only them. but for the most the talking was about shape, size and stiffness. he correctly talk about combination of these factor without talking about name and models.
When you says you can go down a size or to keep in mind that's European sizes so from 44 to 43 or 42. I made this mistake in the beginning. If you are American don't go from an 11 down to a 10 or 9. Look at your equivalent in European size and use that to go down maybe one number if you're just getting started. going down one US size is like going down two or three European sizes. I'm usually a size 11 us and I wear a 10.5 or a 10 u.s. climbing shoe
Nice Video
Every inch of the body must suffer in this sport of maniacs! lol
...only yesterday i was thinking of this subject of climbing shoes Adam so TYVM :)
I’m happy that I got to the top of the rock climbing wall at the local park.
Climbing: the new foot binding 👌