The Tea on All My Climbing Shoes and Answering Your Questions!
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2019
- All your burning questions about climbing shoes -- Revealed!!!
☁️TABLE OF CONTENTS☁️
:45 -- How tight should a climbing shoe be? How should it fit?
1:56 -- Bouldering shoes vs sport climbing shoes
2:43 -- Tips for trying on shoes?
4:29 -- What to do about big toe pain
5:25 -- Climbing outdoors in beginner's shoes
6:00 -- Is it normal to wear different shoes for different difficulties?
6:33 -- To all the climbing shoes I've loved before (aka all the climbing shoes I've climbed in)
💌LINKS💌
TONS of stuff mentioned in this video. First off, I’ll link each shoe that I mentioned, in the order I bought them:
La Sportiva Oxygyms: amzn.to/2tKIBkm
SoiLL Street: soillholds.com/products/the-s...
SoiLL Street LV: soillholds.com/products/stree...
SoiLL Free Range LV: soillholds.com/products/free-...
La Sportiva Solutions: amzn.to/2ZvH5kj
Next, here are those fun little infographics I referenced in this video:
How to size the most popular climbing shoes: athleteaudit.com/how-to-size-t...
How to choose climbing shoes (different variables to consider): athleteaudit.com/how-to-choose...
I think that’s it for this video! Let me know if there is something I’ve forgotten. Now, onto the normal, boring ol links
My home bouldering gym: touchstoneclimbing.com/la-bou...
My first pair of climbing shoes: amzn.to/2tKIBkm
My first pair of climbing shoes (moderate): amzn.to/2Xw1ZPE
My current climbing shoes: amzn.to/2ZvH5kj
My favorite climbing leggings, made out of recycled water bottles and fish nets ($10 off your first purchase using this link!): ref.gf.co/mzTZ3
My chalk bag: amzn.to/2T7Q24f
My crash pad: amzn.to/2NSoNEG
Climbing tape: amzn.to/2NTWqpK
My climbing hand balm: amzn.to/2Xy7eyj
Acupressure finger rings: amzn.to/2GUKzap
Climbing brush: amzn.to/2UANiNp
Canon G7x Mark II: amzn.to/2SBgr5d
Rode VideoMic: amzn.to/2H8EDtG
🍋MUSIC🍋
I’ll miss you - lofi hip hop mix
🌿SOCIAL🌿
⭐️ bouldering instagram: / jennsends
⭐️ personal instagram: / jenniferlangen
🐚 FAQ 🐚
I edit my videos using Final Cut Pro X, and I film using a Canon 80D and a Canon G7X Mark ii.
Disclosure: Some of the links above are affiliate links, meaning that, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
There is danger and risk involved when you boulder or engage in other climbing-related activities. Know that when climbing, or training in general, you might injure yourself or others. Do not climb, train, or engage in any related activities unless you accept responsibility for any potential risks or injuries!
later,
J 
Спорт
It was while editing this video that I realized I’d only climbed in La Sportiva and SoiLL shoes. What shoes should a narrow-heeled lady try next??
butora acro!
Well you gotta fix those heels, first off. You might try some heel raises or jumping up and down on them to bulk them up a bit. But if that doesn't work and you're stuck with tiny heels for life... then I'd probably recommend La Sportiva and Tenaya.
You might also try a few of the LV models in 5.10 or Unparallel, although I have less experience with those brands! Still, the Unparallel rubber is supposedly the same formula as the old C4 rubber and made by the same company that supplies SoILL, for good or... ILL?
Scarpa might be your thing, several of their women's (really wish they'd call them LV) versions are great. The new LV Instinct VS looks amazing (so jealous of the colour), and a small-footed friend of mine swears by her Vapour Velcro LV's.
@@the.Aruarian I find Scarpa to be incredibly comfortable almost across the board, albeit I typically wear their men's shoes and have an average heel with a slightly wide forefoot.
@@thesii213 I have a wide(-ish) forefoot and a narrow heel. I discovered this by trying out LS shoes that felt like Adam Ondra was squeezing the front of my foot, while my heel was still slipping out. Same goes for the BD Shadows. I would probably love some LV models, if not for the fact I rock a US 13 men's in street shoes.
The thing with climbing shoes is that at first you never know when a tight shoe is too tight in the beginning. The break-in period with a shoe depends on how often you wear them and climb with them. Jen makes a good point that a climbing shoe as a beginner makes little difference, just get one that feels good.
Great advice!
Had a pair given to me and after 3 separate trips to the climbing gym I could barely walk home after the 3rd. It had synthetic material. I bought an all suede leather lace up by scarpa, same size as the other shoe. It stretched after the first session and the shoe itself just felt better. The other shoe never stretched.
The main thing I noticed when I went from my flat, symmetric beginner shoes to my second pair (Scarpa Instinct VS), was that the down-turned toe confronted me with how bad my footwork was. With flat soles you can just plop it down anywhere and it'll stick, but with a downturn you need to be a lot more precise with foot placement. This in turn allowed me to improve my footwork and start trusting my feet more, which is just such a hard thing to come to terms with for a lot of people.
i actually relate to this so much. with a smaller surface area, it becomes harder to be precise with your footwork. i think that's why i've seen a lot of climbers wear pretty flat shoes when they speed climb!
@@JenniferLangen Also a lot of smearing on speed climbing and with flat shoes much easier to do so without having to bring feet so far away from the wall if that makes sense.
This video came at a great time, I’ve been doing a lot of research lately about what I should get for my first pair, and the stuff in this video definitely helped. Love your channel!
yay i'm so glad that i released this video in time!! good luck buying your first pair, and thanks so much for the support! :~)
Just got into bouldering and found your channel really really helpful! Especially there’s not many female channels out there :) Have binged watched so many of your videos. Keep up the good work!
So so so glad I found your channel!! I've been searching for a channel like this going to binge of your videos now.
Anna Schoen omg i’m so glad you found it too!!! it’s a pretty specific channel LOL so i’m glad you were able to find me!! :-D
Awesome, always excited when your vids upload :D
I love that you have the confidence to link to other youtubers.
Jacob Eccles agreed
I really appreciate that you manage to share your thoughts without asserting authority you might not have on subjects. It makes you a REALLY reliable resource. Hearing your thoughts/ experiences with different brands/ models of shoe makes me feel better about not being able to find The One True Perfect Shoe™️. The price tag is intimidating, so it’s nice to hear I’m not the only one on a climbing shoe journey lol. I also live in wider toes/ narrow heels Struggle Town,, so i feel that pain.
Scarpa might be the answer. Especially the Vapor and Instinct families, although the newer shoes (Mago, Drago, Chimaera) are worth checking out, too. If you live in the US/UK then you almost never have to pay MSRP for shoes, either. Plenty of options for discounts or second-hand around. I've got the same type of foot, though also a toe shape/high arch that makes down-turned shoes preferable.
AHH i'm so glad you picked up on that! i always try to only speak from my own experience/research and always concede when i might not know something for certain. and YES struggle town, pizza-shaped feet unite!
Love this video. Thanks so much. Considering SoiLL, but now you have given me to much more to think about.
THANK THE HEAVENS I FOUND YOU! I just signed up for Hollywood Boulders and want to graduate into my very own pair of climbing shoes but only after I finish one V4 so I can ~~reward myself~~ LOL this was very helpful since we have the same shoe size and its been hard trying to find a girl for reviews! Keep up the good work Jenn, looking forward to more videos!
Really helpful. I get so excited when u upload a new vid. Keep up the good work😃
thanks so much sara!! i'm glad you enjoyed :~)
I love your style of videos. You deserve so much. Rock on!
thanks so much sami :--)
Great video. You explained and broke down very well. 👌
I watched a video the other day and in the video they mentioned how a lot of climbing shoe companies are starting to make softer shoes specifically targeted at beginner climbers as traditionally climbing shoes were made to climb outside (which is why most beginner shoes are so stiff). They understand that the requirements for indoor climbing and the big holds that you’re going to be standing on require you to feel your feet in order to learn how to use your feet. I would recommend any new climber try to purchase a shoe that is sensitive, or a mix of stiff/sensitive (research and try to figure out which is which), as feeling your feet is vital to progressing through the early grades.
Just got my first climbing shoes yesterday after 7 months of using the rentals I’m so happy!
yay!! i'm so glad! i hope you have a better time in your own pair than with the rentals :-D
GREAT COMMENTARY! KEEP IT UP. I totally understand the quest of finding climbing shoes. I had 5 shoes and all of them are for different styles of climbing. And just by bouldering I get from Las Sportiva Otaki, Futura, Skwama and Furia S (the softest shoes in the market), now I am settled with Furia which gives the best sensitive feelings! I am a fan of super soft sometimes painful rubber
for DWS I go for five ten anazasi pink, you can see my channel climbing in Spain
My recent search involved visiting an REI and trying out literally every single shoe at the store and making notes on which fit best (for me, the heel was also the hardest to get a good fit) and which seemed to perform best on the little test toe holds. I went through about 20 shoes/sizes and only a few really fit well and there wasn’t much rhyme or reason, so I’d highly recommend anyone looking for their perfect shoe to just keep trying a bunch out (I ended up with the Tenaya Mundakas, not sized down, which have been good but not quite perfect for me).
That chart at 3:51 was an absolute godsend. I've been iffy about buying shoes recently because the width of my Evolv Defy's have been a little too wide (didn't realize it also came in a low volume size good for future reference and friends). Tried a bunch of shoes on at REI and honestly the Tenaya Mundaka fitting and LS Solution fitting is spot on. I bought a pair of Anasazi Lace 1 size smaller because I believe I used them as rentals when I first started climbing so I'm hoping I got the size right.
oooh so you referenced the chart before you bought your shoes? i wonder how much work went into compiling all that info... good luck with those anasazi laces!!
I couldn’t agree more with your closing comments that a shoe that fits is the best shoe for you. I know multiple people who swear by a shoe day in and day out only to complain ever session that their feet kill or worse end up with bunions/spurs.
One big thing I’d add to the already great information you provided is to make the most of local demo days.
Most large gyms in (US/Canada from my experience) do semi regular or an annual demo day. This is a time where brands set up promotional booths that let you try different brands and models of shoes for free or for a nominal fee (10 dollars or so). They let you climb in the shoes and actually use the shoe on the wall. This is incredibly valuable as a newer climber or someone who’s yet to find their perfect shoe.
yaaaaay! thank you Jenn!
I have the same exact feet as you're describing and I too am extremely happy with my La Sportiva Solution Comps! Best shoe yet. I will not go back to Scarpa because my heel always slips out of their shoes. The Solutions have a nice snug fit. They still hurt like hell to break in lol. I've also found the Butora Gomi to be quite nice, just a little less aggressive.
I started out with the So ILL Street LV shoe in my “normal size” and have suffered with how tight they have been for over a year. I don’t climb super frequently, and some sessions were better than others depending on what time of day I was climbing (better in AM, worse in PM when feet are more swollen). I finally went to two REI stores in my area and tried on every shoe possible. Bought the LS Solutions and tried them out on one climb before realizing that the shoe overall just didn’t hug my foot enough while being too painful on my big toe. Tried one more REI store with a better climbing selection and found the LS Katana Lace Women’s shoe and I was FLOORED with how perfectly they fit. Seems like they’re perfect for overhangs and slab. I have narrow-ish feet, a high arch, and wider toe area so I recommend you try them out too!
I find it helpful to have 2 types of shoes for different styles. I got scarpa instinct vs for slab and routes with small footholds. La sportiva skwarma and scarpa dragos for other routes that dont require hard rubber.
i'm still trying to find shoes for slabs myself! thanks for sharing your picks :-)
Also! Your local gym might have shoe sales, so get an idea of what you want and then ask your gym staff when the next sale is. I got a pair of already broken in shoes for $20 and there’s still a lot of life to them
I'm convinced that my first pair of shoes, BD Momentums, will never wear out! Maybe that just means my footwork is pretty good? I do, however, feel that I outgrew them quite fast. 5.10 Anasazi blancos are my second and general projecting pair, unless I need a softer shoe. I wish I had started with them, to be honest, since the rubber feels fair superior to the Momentums, which can be a little slippery, especially on holder/more worn down holds. But hey, maybe worrying about slipping off all the time is what improved my footwork to begin with!
That was one fast comment Sami. Next time I won’t be so complacent 😤😤
oohhh martin you gotta step it up next time
I tried on my first pair of shoes with socks on and they fit really well. They've stretched a bit so now I have to wear socks all the time. I've only had them for a month but I'm itching for a new pair. Thanks for the graphics I have more research to do. I loved how you grabbed your plant at the end of the video, very cute.
hehe thanks so much! glad you found the infographics helpful, i find that the images really help communicate the message! and yes, i love my plant, gotta give it lots of hugs :-)
Oof same. My shoes are super comfy but socks are a must. Matching on tiny holds is even more terrifying than it already is.
After 6 months a hole finally appeared near the toes so I’m looking for a new pair atm
I think whether you need a second pair of shoes also depends on the first pair you have. I bought a pair of evolv Oracles a few months back which at first seemed to be perfect for everything. Great on small edges, smearing, or overhangs. As they broke in, the edging performance became STARTLINGLY deficient. When climbing outdoors on small footholds I can often feel like rubber slooooowwwllly bend around the foothold till it pops. I've never had this happen in a shoe and it's really a trust killer. I've read this is a common problem with TRAX SAS and heavier climbers (I'm 6'3" and just a touch under 180). I still love the shoes, but they're being retired to gym duty because of this reason. If I had chosen a better all around shoe I could probably get away with 1
Glad I found you! Love the info. I'm LA. Did you someone collect the soill shoes???
Dark Matter rubber is a relatively soft compound, made by UnParallel to note, but six months is more than enough time to wear into any given pair of shoes with a reasonable amount of climbing. If you climb a few hours a session a few times a week then in a few months you should pay attention to needing a resole, and after that the rand rubber and upper take little time to degrade and tear.
love the shoe table. I went from evolv shamans to black diamond aspect. I have high volume feet (bunions :/) so I definitely felt the difference.
Jenn! I am actually struggling with the “toe pain” (2 months using them) and You did explain the possible solution very very clear. I’ll try “womens” versión climbing shoes to feel the difference from my actual Scarpa Origin. As always a great video. Greeting from Mexico.
thank you so much!! i'm glad this helps, i struggle with toe pain a bunch too :-) give those low volume shoes a try!
Thanks !!! I was gonna buy the so ill but I read so many problems about them
Great Vid! How many sizes did you downsize for the la sportiva solutions compared to your street shoe size?
I wear US mens 10.5 casual shoes, and size 43.5 solutions fit me best.
I know this is late but hope it helps at all
I have my 3rd and 4th pair of shoes right now. the ls solution and some scarpe allrounder. i use the solutions for overhangs and tryharding, the scarpas for everythign else. that does a rly good job for me.
as a tip for buying new shoes, think about what style of climbing u want to do, cuz there is no shoe which does everything perfekt. if u want a shoe for small foothold, get a stiff one, if u need something for slipery volumes get a soft one and so on.
Also for beginners who buy their first pair, go to a climbing shop and buy them there so some1 with knowledge can look how it fits ur foot. For the second pair i would also stick with an allround shoe (i dont like the term beginner shoe) cuz u proberly dont want 2 diffrnet pair of shoes already and also dont want a super aggressiv shoe e.g., cuz aggressiv shoes a. hurt and b. are pretty bad for vertical climbs, way worse then a flat shoe is for overhanging. At a certain point u will notice what u want in ur next shoe. For me it was that i needed a shoe for good toe and heel hooks, so i got the ls solutions. after i got them i felt i still need a confortable shoe for jumps and something to stand on volumes for so i got a allround shoe
If you’re still looking for a narrow heel I would HIGHLY recommend trying the MadRock Drone LV. It’s one of the most comfortable aggressive shoes I have ever owned and it’s fairly affordable when compared to other popular brands. They are super stiff out of the box and annoying to break in, but after the first two weeks they fit like a dream.
Awesome video by the way!
oooh i've seen those around before, they look great! there's a mad rock outlet close to where i live -- maybe i'll get to snag a demo pair to try out!
Jenn Sends definitely worth it! They’re my favorite shoe I’ve owned.
if you have big toe pain, try using a sock liner sock and tuck the sock inbetween the big toe and the toe next to it. Helped a ton for me. make sure the sock liner sock is thin tho.
This is very helpful.
I bought the instinct velcros or whatever theyre called and they fit perfect so i know what im buying everytime now
I just ordered the LV street climbing shoe in foam green. What were your thoughts on that shoe ? For reference I climb V5 indoor bouldering.
Thanks! :)
I have Morton's Toe and makes my second toe gets all gnarly and pushy against the big toe; it is painful and distracting AF. I have Evolv Elektra and have to remove them between climbs. I have rented LS Oxygym at the gym and they feel tight yet comfy.
Amazing Jenn! :) Love your videos.
super glad you enjoyed!!
great video!
thanks so much hugo!! :-)
Love your disclaimer at the end. So true :)
glad you agree!! thanks for sticking to the end :-D
love your vids, you're really inspiring me to go climbing more often :)
do you rockclimb? or you'd rather go to your bouldering gym?
thank you so much! the bouldering gym is really close to where i live and work! so that's usually where i climb most :-)
@@JenniferLangen Ooh that is convenient, the nearest from me is 40 kms away :ll
Thanks!
When you find your perfect shoes, please post what they are! I too have a narrow heel and long Greek toes. Ended up with a pair of 5.10 lace up women's shoes and they're not really the shape of my foot, but they're ok.
i for sure will!! i've got a couple more months in these solutions left, but i might shop around some more after they're done :-)
I’m now lead climbing and bouldering outdoors...I’m not sure if I need a different pair of shoes for this...presumably I need a more sturdy pair for outdoor?
Yes, hi. Am woman. Am in LA. Am a size 6.5 with wide toes, medium-high arch and... normal heels? and AM ALSO JENNIFER. Have been indoor bouldering for like 10 months but still haven't gotten my own pair. Would love to cop those shoes if you think they'd be right for me and also to meet you because you seem pretty cool!
FINALLY a bouldering girl like me!!!
bouldering girls unite!! :~)
For your la sportiva shoes, how many sizes down did you go? Or did you get your street shoe size? :)
I sized up with a boreal diabolo and they crush my big toes every time I put weight on int.
Same first pair of shoes here!
OCUN has a medium volume Boulder shoes w/ medium heals. But I have trouble finding shoes big enough for me. I wear 49 in Scarpa Instinct VS for my all-around and they are not very comfy. La Sportiva Tarantulace was super easy, but still narrow for a beginner lace-up & lasted forever. But So ill is super NARROW! and the DARK Matter rubber gets wrecked quick. Even size 14 Mens in So ill don't fit.
the solutions are the best. they were my first climbing shoe and i love them. gonna buy another pair.
I usually check size recommendations at sizesquirrel.com, it's quite good, at least when you have a few pairs for reference
I have tried every brand of shoe my climbing gym has to offer. It is quite a large selection and the only shoe that fit me well was La Sportiva Otaki and La Sportiva Solution.
I have quite a broad foot with a slightly smaller heel. I could eliminate 90% of the shoes because they were all to narrow for me. La sportiva was the only brand that had the combination of broad foot and small heal.
thanks so much for sharing!! i've heard great things about the la sportiva otaki, but have never tried it out before
Has anyone got any suggestions of all-round vegan climbing shoes for narrow feet? thanks:)
my arch size is a whole ass size bigger than my actual foot (which are large anyway) so it sucks trying to get well fitting shoes lmao. I have the la sportiva tarantulace which seem to work p well tho!
I thought the evolv agros had a very narrow toebox
i was wondering what exercises you can do at home to improve at bouldering? x
that's a really good question!! i don't do many exercises outside of climbing, but i have been stretching every night and i've found that it helps my climbing a lot! i only have been stretching my legs and hips, but it's helped me reach for footholds that are hard to get to because of my height :-)
Core
I have narrow heels as well, and I have to agree the solutions are one of the better shows in that perspective. But I struggle with two different foot-sizes as well, so it took me until 2 months until I get comfortable in it. Normally I wear street shoe size 40 - 40 1/2 (7 1/2 USM), but for me it felt the best to wear those solutions in 39 1/2 (7 USM). Meanwhile I get even more comfortable with the la sportiva skwama, so big recommendation here. Simply because they are thinner and for me they feel softer and more sensitive. I can literally feel if a step well the hold or if I am about to slip. However big disclaimer the skwama wear out very quick. So nothing for people with poor foodwork. Beside of those to shoes is still like the la sportiva Python and the lowa Falco VCR. I wear those in my street shoe size because those I use more for warm up and everything not close to my Max level. Especially lowa I can recommend for beginners. And after resoling it with 5.10 Stealth I was amazingly supprized how good they perform on slaps - but also the skwama do right well there. The solutions however are not my first choice when it comes to slaps. You can use those in every other terrain but slaps are not on of the solutions strength. ... Ok this was my personal adder to your shoe review ... Nice graphic and nice talk! Thank you so far! Keep on doing such nice vids!
Solid advice here folks my only complaint...no chill out music to enjoy,come on Jenn ; )
HAHA if you listen veeery closely there is a quiet backing track... but correct, I've turned down the music on the speaking videos since some people think it's too distracting :-D
thanks very helpfull
me takin notes for my size 9 womens, narrow heel big bunion and long second toe claw self
I'm not sure what kinda climbing you do but if bouldering ->if you have narrow heels the new women's scarpa instinct vs should be perfect for you. They're wide in the toebox, but for me the heel is too narrow so I'm gonna go back to the men's version:) I also have bunions but also wide but shallow heels apparently
@@Kam-go3bc Hey this was really helpful! I'll try on a pair @ my local REI. Have a good one :-)
@@aznnuh you're welcome, if the womens one turns out to be too narrow it might still be worth trying on vsr as well:) they're great shoes
have you tried ocun oxi lady its perfect
Do you climb at Sender One?
I love that gym
The LaSportiva Python, one of the best shoes in general and definitely the best prize-perfomance ratio for indoor climbing, isn't on the list, for whatever reason. I'd put it a little less aggressive than than the solution, but for similar foot shape.
Really Rough Rocks Gang #1!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sorry
That chart is not very accurate if you have wide toes but a thin heel
RIP 😭oh no
How so? If you have a small heel you will probably need to use a low volume shoe and not go and get a high volume shoe
@@hectormejia5090 well heres my problem , my heel is pretty thin while my toes are pretty wide and I also have very big feet which means that most LVs arent available in my size , mu current shoes are they Tenaya Iati which I size 2 sizes below street but before that I had a pair of mad rock Drones these where my street size ,these 2 are on the other sides of the spectrum according to the chart
I wear the Scarpa Helix (US W 9.5/ Street Size W 10) and I have quite narrow feet. They fit really well
Why does everyone pronounce the t in often?
😍 🧗♀️
You are so adorable
I’m a size 6💀
you should go try lead climbing :))
i really want to!! i'm gonna take a class soon hopefully :-)
@@JenniferLangen I look foward to seeing a video on it!!
My tip for comfort would be: wear socks
Comfort and smell. I wear socks and remove them for serious heel hooks.
Agreed I wear ankle socks regardless as i find the more comfootable (see what i did there) I am the better I climb
That is like a sin to me. I hate that. lol
Lol brave comment 😂
That's not a shoe rack is it 😂
hmm usually something else goes there, but it's a shoe rack for the purposes of this video 🎸
who are you again ?