EVERY Climbing Shoe In The Olympic Games | Tokyo 2020
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2024
- Wondering what shoe the athletes used for each event? In this video I went over what I could find on each of the athletes to find who was wearing what for Speed Climbing, Bouldering, and Lead Climbing just for a bit of fun.
Any corrections I find I'll update here:
Jakob actually changes his solutions out for futuras in the middle of B1 during bouldering
00:00 Intro
00:54 Speed
03:17 Bouldering and Lead
Shoe Links:
Scarpa Arpia
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Drago
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Instinct VSR
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Force V
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Chimera
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Scarpa Veloce
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Madrock Remora
madrock.com/products/remora-t...
Madrock Drone
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Mad Rock Sharks
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Tenaya Iati
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Tenaya Mundaka
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Tenaya Mastia
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Evolv Rave
www.evolvsports.com/int/rave-...
Evolv Shamans
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Unparallel Duel
www.unparallelsports.com/prod...
Unparallel Flagship
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Cobra
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La Sportiva Solutions
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Cobra 4.99
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Solution Comp
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Theory
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva solution comp womens
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La Sportiva Theory Womens
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La Sportiva Solution Womens
shop.epictv.com/en/solution-w...
La sportiva Skwama Womens
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
5.10 Hiangle Women Pro Tokyo Edition/ LV
www.adidas.com/us/five-ten-hi...
5.10 Aleonz
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
5.10 Shauna Niad
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Ocun Nitro
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Wild Climb Bat
www.wildclimb.it/en/prodotto/...
Wild Climb Pantera
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
Madrock Redline
madrock.com/products/redline-...
Scarpa Furia S
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
La sportiva Python
shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-s...
The only thing I can guarantee is that all the shoes used are better at climbing than me
Woah, that must've taken quite some work! Strangely fascinating to see all those different shoes in action :)
I didnt realize there would be so much work with so many shoes haha... I thought there would be like 6-7 shoes that everyone was using but everyone just has a diff preference
Well done! I think a bar chart would be a good way to summarize the data
Ahh that would have been a good idea to show number of people using the same shoe. Thanks for the suggestion
Great to see that you put all this effort into making this video! Really enjoyed it. Love your content
Wow thanks man...as generic as it might seem im really thankful for the kind words...its really encouraging to make more and more videos
Amazing work man, must have taken a colossal effort to compile this list
Amazing research, quite interesting to see the differences
Very well-reaearched and presented! That definitely deserves a sub and a look at your other climbing content!
wow appreciate it dude!, im definitely priming my channel more as a review channel for gear (cause I have an unhealthy obsession with buying stuff haha) but definitely just taking as it comes and letting myself be creative and just making content that the community as a whole are after so I appreciate the support
Amazing video! Man that took a lot of work! Extremely interesting thank you so much👌🏽
Appreciate it, i think for all the olympics vids i watched the events a total of like 8x....no sleep but it was fun to make
Great vid man! Very well put together and broken down extremely well 👏
Appreciate it
Awesome video man! Hoping to see more content from you in the future!
Thanks man, definitely will try to keep the content coming! The more support the more oppprtunities and possibilities for different videos!
Wow! Amazing research you put in to this, don't know how you did it! Would have been great to have seen a visual diagram of all the athletes and what shoes they choose for what event and the possible reasons why they chose it - just to see it in totality for those visual learners like myself out there ;) Apart from that, amazing work! Keep it up!
deffs more personal preference Id say for most climbers, but not gonna deny those brand sponsorships make a diff as well lol
This is super awesome, Thank you!
Thanks dude, hopefully I'll get a chance to review all of them in the future too haha
Damn nice research dude!!! Love the insight!!
thank you thank you, interesting to see how many variations there were for sure
Janja's shoe is custom too, I think (if ever so slightly). It appears not to have a split outsole. Seems like all the 5.10 athletes have to customize their shoe one way or another
Dont you wish us normies had that option =( would love
A slight adjustment on some of my shoes
That's some pretty bad marketing for 5.10 haha
Quite a few pro climbers are climbing in custom shoes. If the brand has the resources to optimize your footwear you're going to take it to ensure the perfect blend of fit and support you're after.
@@eddiefowke 100%... like every shoe Ive had are in that realm of "if only it did this it would be perfect" so heres hoping one day I get famous enough to warrant a pair of customs haha
I think Janja's Hiangles are more or less the old Hiangles with the new colors
Slip on Cobra's were my bouldering shoe of choice 20 years ago. Nice to see they're still around and being used at top level climbing.
Curious about the heel, any slippage back in the day for harder heel hooks?
@@BeorOng not if you size them 4-5 EU sizes down from your street size ;)
@@benschuster9792 haha well that sounds like an absolute blast
@@BeorOng I sized down 2.5 US sizes. Incredible edging, smearing and toe pointing. Heel hooking was decent.
Interesting video! Thank you!
Thanks for watching =) hopefully ill get a chance to review all these shoes in the future
Great work! Love it
appreciate the love !
Subbed just because your dedication. Nice 👍
next vid took me a while as well... finally finished watching the Olympic climbing for the 4th time
Nice summary. Quick and dialed.
Like climbing should be haha thanks for watching dude
Earned a sub. Great work.
what a legend
Nice job bro!
appreciate it
Interesting vid. Thanks for the info.
you are very welcome my dude
This is awesome :)
appreciate the love man
López also used red Skwamas for the first boulder of the final. :)
awesome work
haha thanks man
I disagree that Alberto's medal was well deserved, it was anything but. It was a pure consequence of luck in 1-1 pairings in speed, which propelled him to win the speed round whilst having the 5th speed time. It was an outlier in the probability of outcomes, due to a decision to leave Bassa's spot empty, which then wreaked havoc in the pairing outcomes vs times correlation.
Interestingly, if the finals score is corrected to reflect speed times instead of pairing outcomes, Alberto would score last. He had 5th time in speed, was dead last in bouldering, and 4th in lead. If that's a gold medal performance, I'm Greta Garbo. With the correction, the medals would have been : gold Nathaniel, silver Tomoa and bronze Jakob (first in bouldering, speed and lead respectively). Nathaniel crushed in fact : he was first in bouldering and had second time in speed. That was a gold medal performance.
Also, regarding the shoes, there was an instance where Ondra changed one shoe on a slab, that would have been interesting to include, but I'm not sure that the footage allows to identify which one it was.
Regarding lopez more a common courtesy to just say well done haha, i do agree that the format definitely fucked with ppl who probably should have earned that win with a better performance so fair call, regarding the change over yeah i didnt see what it was, i know alberto changed to skwamas at some point too
Yea but Alberto won fair and square
Really surprised to see the Arpia being used during speed. I wore them for a few months of bouldering and they are super comfy, but the toes blew out pretty fast. From what I understand, speed climbing is pretty hard on the tops of the toes due to lots of dragging along the wall.
Id say you would want really light shoes, but at the same time something that is relatively stif to give you a nice push to work with, its why the cobra 4.99 models have removed unneccessary rubber on the heel cause its 100% designed for speed, but i guess its just one of those -- climb with what you know and are comfortable with situations
@@robbieallerhand lol fair enough
I like your content….great job
I appreciate it my man!
If I remember correctly, Ondra switched out his shoes during one of the boulder problems. Would be interesting to look at that switch in detail
The focus of the camera was so much on duffy i think at that point or cosser annoyingly, since its ondra though i would assume hed try his solutions as his change out shoe if it wasnt the theorys
@@BeorOng pretty sure he realised theories suck and switched to good old solutions
Ondra switches when there is more smearing or big volumes. He likes a bigger shoe for them since there is more rubber to grip. He talked about it in some older video I believe.
Awesome!
thanks you
awesoooooome
Miho's shoes are custom made tenaya oasi clones with 5.10 branding, not aleons or hiangles.
imagine how expensive custom shoes are I can't even
I'm late to this party but did Sean McColl really use scarpa force v?? I like the shoes (good mix of edgy rubber but a flatter profile that works ok in a lot of different things) but usually they're considered everyday chill shoes and not serious competition items. That's awesome if true!
Thanks bro. I’ve been repping Skwamas for a while. Maybe it’s time for a change.
Hey akiyo uses the skwamas and she got podium so I wouldn't write em off... plus I LOVE my skwamas probably the best fitting shoe I've ever owned (they're the first pair Ive actually worn through to needing a resole)
Alberto Lopez used red Skwamas for the first boulder in the final also!
@@teropiro1962 i did see that on my 4th watch haha ill add it into my updates in the description
Aw, nice to see sameone took Ocún.
nice videos! came here to say i am tired of the old companies marketing a separate ‘womens’ and ‘mens’ shoe (and in pretty gendered colorways) when climbers only care about fit and especially so for the elite athletes. that’s one thing i like about unparallel. they label their shoes regular or low volume-just make sense for different foot types. same with ocun having diagrams for different types of toes. so much more practical.
Here here....my first pair of shoes were "womens" cause i have pretty small feet...it really threw me off as a first buyer but i trusted the shop owner who was reccomending them to me...and i see this with a lot of new climbers, choosing look over feel...so i 100% agree and support this comment
Maybe the shoe companies don’t actually follow actual anatomical data. But women don’t just have the same shape foot as men, just smaller. They actually have anatomically different shaped feet controlling for sizing. If shoe companies are doing their job right, there should be different women’s and men’s shoes customized to each gender’s different bell curves of foot shaping. It’s a false narrative of gender equality to say it should just be the same.
@@danchen6783 but when a shoe fits a dudes foot better and is labeled a "woman's" shoe, it throws him off. Low volume phrasing achieves a more accurate description of the difference of the shoe. There are plenty of men with narrow feet. Several of my climbing buddies wear women's model shoes and wish they were offered in less feminine colors.
@@danchen6783 you're legitimately and demonstrably wrong. The basic fact that there's men with "feminine feet" and women with "manly feet" blows your whole comment out of the water and really pushes for the nomenclature change to favour the volume specificity, while simultaneously pointing out the uselessness of those descriptors.
@@el_mal_de_ojo I can find a woman with a beard and a man with a woman's hip ratio. This isn't any sort of sexism, ON AVERAGE, women's feet and men's feet fall on different bell curves on about a dozen different measurements in their feet, controlling for weight and height. Anatomically, women and men are just different. There's no social judgment here. It's relatively obvious in areas like breasts and hips, but there are other body parts where the norms are different - feet being one of them. Now you can find exceptions to everything, but if you are designing non-custom footwear you need to hit the middle of the bell curve. Arch height/volume is only one difference. Please chat with a podiatrist.
I found laura's way of putting on climbing shoes very interesting. She ended her race note circling her whole shoes way down to midsole.
yeah it seems its to replicate the powerband system of other shoe brands. Deffs interesting to see
That voice over for Adam Ondra hahah
Hahah very good catch...i may or may not have said czechoslovakia and needed to dub over it hahaha
Nice to see the Chimera’s represented!
haha opinions on the shoe?
@@BeorOng It is fantastic! Stiff but not too stiff. Edges well but still smears like a soft slipper. Laces are usually a problem for bouldering since you have to take shoes off, but I just leave mine untied for most of the session. I only lace up for the hard stuff.
@@kaitsu1984 i actually barely ever take my shoes off during a sesh haha interesting though, might have to check them out.. might make a good lead shoe specifically
@@BeorOng Do it. It works really well outside too :)
@@kaitsu1984 weighing up my options for sure, katanas, tc pros, and boostic are all in my crosshair
Does Janja us the 5.10 pro Tokyo mens or womens
Interesting hearing of people owning so many pairs of shoes, I can't really fathom it. Got two different sized feet so I have to buy two pairs to get one pair, so I've just erred on the side of caution and got some really basic Butora Senegis.
Awesome watching climbing actually being at the Olympics though.
for sure dude. i mean you saw a few people change diff shoes just in bouldering alone, ondra did it twice lol
i know that EB-climbing are making shoes espacially for people who have 2 different sized feet :)
Not sure, but judging from the toe rubber I'd say Shauna Coxsey was wearing the Anasazi Pro's, not niads
oh I think you might be right here... I think I got caught off with the graphic I found online but since she helped design the anasazi's high chance she'd be using it
Apparantly the niads are a replacement for the anasazi so still should be right haha
@@BeorOng If you looked it up Shauna helped develop the Anasazi Pro's so it makes sense.
@@zebediahmartin9559 yeah apparantly there was some controversy with the name "anasazi" that's why they rebranded it as the niad so more or less the same shoe (maybe with a tweak somewhere in there)
@@BeorOng The fit between Anasazi and NIAD is way different. Similar type of shoe, but Adidas completely changed the fit. If Anasazis fit well I doubt the NIADs would, even though it’s supposed to be the replacement.
Surprised more people aren't using Evolv shoes, they are fantastic
My fave shoes atm are my phantoms so +1 to this comment lol
Also surprised Duffy was using Shamans. I thought those were pretty stiff
Actualy Miho uses custom version of dragons
nice
Did anybody notice how Rogora's lacing up her shoes? =)
haha the under the sole thing? my brother was saying its probably to mimic what evolve did with the oracl with a wire running underneath to give more tension around the heel.
She has been doing that with the wildclimb pantera for years. To my knowledge, this is because wildclimb does not have a well tensioned rand as has become far more industry standard since the days of the P3 system from La Sportiva to minimize shoes flattening out, and this helps support the downcamber of the shoe once well broken in.
I felt like that I saw madrock drone but I didn't see one in your video?
04:33 my man =]
Team Tenaya for the win!!
I do admit i have yet to try tenaya, atm evolv phantoms are my choice of weapon
I wonder if sometimes on slippery volume footholds it would be better to just go barefoot. I truly believe it could stick more than the hard rubber of those climbing shoes.
theres a clip of i think its magnus who does the co-ordination part of a climb with shoes and for the dual tex he takes his shoe off so that he can get up on it, so I would say yes but at the same time I think its not allowed in comps lol
Sean mccoll has several videos showing this, but climbing shoes are required.
La Sportiva seems to have got their sponsorships right
Haha well five ten took 2 medals in womens and both gold and silver
I didn't know sean mccoll had a climbing shoe channel
hahaha its the hair isnt it?
@@BeorOng haha bingo!
Just asking cause I'm not sure wasn't Israel in the climbing olimpics to?
not to my knowledge, you may have watched a qualifier with them -- for example Indonesia has a climbing team as well, they are actually some of the BEST when it comes to speed climbing as well... but they didn't make it to actual event cause of the combined format
Best intermediate indoor shoe for wide foot. Looking for easy entry, adjustment of opening and comfort. No slippers.
The madrock range are worth a look at, specifically drones or sharks but deffs test to see if it fits your foot, evolv shamans are my next to buy but those are at the upper end, funnily enough even though im not the biggest fan, at the discount that black diamond shadows are selling for, those would be a solid option as well as the zones if you wanted to go cheaper. Otherwise were moving into evolv geshido territory (i have zero experience in), or the anasazi pros would be a good choice too.
Try the Ocun Jett QC if you can find them! They fit great on my wider feet and are not too aggressive.
Tenaya Oasi
Feeling a lil disheartened about buying mastia's now
of español
Those Evolv Raves look like my granny's bedroom shoes.
Show me where is Español on a map
Man Spain is called "España", and not "español", which means spanish
Not a single Booster or Boostic, very interesting!
Boostics are not at all competition oriented, full pad of xs edge with full length midsole, though one of my favorite shoes, and the Boosters are just specific too precise placements with a well formed toebox for recessed points and pockets. Was surprised Coleman used the Instinct rather than the Chimera, but is likelier a better choice than the new boosts.
Im intending on buying a pair for review and more specifically outdoor climbing on micro edges where its value is probably gonna be more orientated towards. Would be super hard to use these for competitions other than in rare occasions since so many comp climbs have some degree of requiring some foot dexterity
Nice. Better go buy some dragos
man I dunno whether I want to another pair of ultra soft shoes... I have the furia airs (review in the pipeline) and they're the softest you can go....super sensitive but a bit on the narrow end (something I think dragos would be better in for wide footed individuals) but I honestly I would size for comfort for the soft shoes and only use them for co-ordination type climbs
@@BeorOng Sickkkk! good to know. i guess it would work for me as a shoe to fill a niche as I normally climb in solution comps?
@@nbka8rs the solution comps were intended to be on the softer end if im not mistaken, but dragos are still 100% softer haha, end of the day id say try em on and see if 1 they fit your foot and 2 whether you like em cause thats probably what matters most
Now do EVERY Olympic Climbers feet 2020 ( @ o @ )
I'm going to safely guess Sportiva Genius' weren't being used
Not a single sole sported them, though a correction i made im the description....jakob did change out to futuras during bouldering
@@BeorOng great video, just finished it! Im about to buy another pair of Genius', my Skwama's have been to Mordor and back haha. I loved my old pair of Genius but some people really like the Futura. Thoughts?
@@BorisBidjanSaberi11 Geniuses are far better than Futuras in almost every manner, but by better I do mean drastically more aggressive, especially heel tension wise, plus more toe cap coverage. Because of this, volume smears are slightly harder, and the foot goes numb rather fast, thus over a long few days of climbing the incremental advantage of precision from a Genius is probably outweighed by having feeling in your toes.
Also, try the Scarpa Chimera, same size as you wear the Genius. Far more adaptive midsole and better rubber coverage over the toes which doesn’t delaminate and is a softer compound than xs grip 2.
@@BorisBidjanSaberi11 I havent had a chance to really look at the futuras so I would probably listen to zachary's advice, I personally don't really like my genius' cause its just painful haha, the sock is really comfortable but the sensitivity makes it hard to use for prolonged periods. but obviously if you loved the genius' I wouldn't stop you... all a matter of opinion, personal fit, and what you want out of the shoe at the end of the day. I really wanted a pair of futuras back in the day as well... but I opted for genius' as my "no edge" shoe
@@zacharylaschober hey dude thanks for chiming in, I don't have the experience on the futura end of the spectrum so glad someone could fill in the blanks =]
What did Janja use; the only one who counts 😁👍😂😂😂
5.10 hi angle pros (tokyo edition), I have a pair not tokyo edition but not gonna lie they fit like an absolute glove.... review in the works but its hard cause were under strict lockdown here in aus
Español is a language bro, but cool vid
Haha i knew it was gonna come up eventually..i knew i should have changed it
@1:13 am I tripping or does his lips not match up to what he's saying
I may have said czechslovakia and dubbed it to the correct country...but...who can really know, you know?
@@BeorOng ahahahha
miho ALEON VCS？？？？？？？？？？WHERE
are you asking for a link for her custom aleons? cause I don't think they would be available, if your asking where she used em, it was her primary bouldering shoe... but again this is a lot of speculation since they didn't really focus on it and the shoe looks most similar to the aleon above anything else, the double strap is what makes it confusing as none of the shoes have it thus just assuming its custom
Looks like a 5.10 rip off of the Tenaya Oasi which she previously used prior to 5.10
@@BeorOng the custom shoe that miho uses is a prototype according to one of her YT videos (ruclips.net/video/SkQoK4ipE8c/видео.html), around 1:18. It is very similar to the aleon in terms of design and that the pointy part of the shoe closer to the middle but has a flat profile as opposed to a downturned profile.
@@JoonLoong what a legend, this is the first close up of the shoe Ive actually seen but yeah this is why it was so hard to pinpoint what her shoe was other than it looked like the aleon but with a double strap
Great effort on making this video. However, as a ocun fan, I gotta send you to this link (ruclips.net/video/Xus5GBt16Ck/видео.html) on how to pronounce the brand correctly XD
hahaha oh wow this is good! when I get to reviewing the Ocun stuff I can not embarass myself now haha thanks man!
"of Spanish" xD
Shh this is what happens when you have to watch the olympics over and over with no sleep haha
basically nobody uses a no-edge. I'm just a intermediate v5/5.11 climber, and love genius for example.
The hiangles technically use no edge around the sides, similiar to theory, but yeah no one on genius'
" of español" lol
i know i know... I knew it before I said it as well but it just came out and I was like..."Ill roll with it" At least I dubbed ondras Czechoslovakia with the right one haha
You make a video about climbing shoes but you don't even write their names. Why bro, why?
All in the description my dude
Soooo…is the channel pronounced “boring” ?