How to Fill the grain on a Mahogany Guitar
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- Опубликовано: 8 апр 2017
- Mahogany is a porous wood, and needs to be filled in order to get a great finish. Here, I'm filling the grain on a guitar I've been working on for a while. I'm using Timber mate wood filler. This is a nice simple way to fill the grain on a mahogany guitar body.
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Great tutorial, and I love the chill delivery. Subscribed!
Just the video I needed to see. I am nearly done shaping my Mahogany body and MUST use grain filler as I am attempting a pure white paint finish and you know that shows EVERY little imperfection.
Beautiful maple top,great info. on grain fill,next up a nice french polish
Great video, thanks for this!! I need to fill the grain on a mahogany neck, and this vid explained it perfectly.
Props, man!!
Awesome! Thank you!
I just finally stumbled on this channel, and I am glad it was in my suggested feed. Good explanations, very helpful.
Awesome, Welcome to the channel.
I bought wood filer for my mahogany guitar that I'm refinishing months ago. Finally have a chance to get the job done due to being furloughed. Glad I watched this before I tried it. I wouldn't have thought of watering the mixture down. Great idea
Nice, Watering it down makes it so much more manageable. Way less to sand off later too.
It’s amazing how many methods there are for pore filling. Watching various videos I have seen Joint compound, epoxy, timbermate/aquacoat, pumps, and sanding the finish wet to create a slurry to fill the pores. And there are a couple of others I can;t remember.
Thanks for the video, very good and fun. Congratulations, you just got another one, here in Brazil. I use mahogany in the construction of accoustic guitar and solid guitar bodies. Actually, the porosity of this wood is very difficult, but your tip will help me a lot, I'll test it in the next build, the only difficulty I'll have is to be able to buy this product, because I've never seen anything equivalent. I intend to use on different woods as well.
It is tricky to fill. I would imagine you could get something similar in Brazil. Might have to do some searching around.
Thanks for this. Great to confirm how to do it.
Glad it was helpful!
@@homebuiltshop You have no idea how helpful it was. I wish I could post a picture so you could see how amazing it came out. My work is not neat or clean, but the feel of the fill/stain is amazing.
I like zpoxy finishing epoxy, fast to apply and you don't have any worries because you sand down just to when the wood shows. Then your vinyl sanding sealer to be ready for color and then clear coats.
Learned something new about mahogany today. Thanks for the tip!
+Seth Galitzer you're welcome. Glad I could help.
Nice, thanks man... I will try this :)
Good job!
+321bytor thank you
Wood filler used here, not a wood grain filler. Can achieve tremendous results with grain filler, as many products are designed with pore structures in mind rather than larger cracks and repairs for longevity. I imagine this would add to the physical strength of the overall wood after its finished.
thank you
eggwhite and sanding dust do a great job as well - it might shrink a little bit, so you have to do it more times - but that is also the case with these commercial wood fillers
cool tip works a treat !!
Love the outtakes
thanks for this. i need to grain fill some swamp ash
Who's looking after scooby while you work in the shop?
Just kidding, nice work
+Bobby Bob zoinks!
Yoh, that's not cool Mr. White
Good call on the bandaid smell! I was wondering why it was so familiar 🤣🤣
Its so strange isn't it? LOL.
@@homebuiltshop It smells like throat spray to me.
What is the green tape on top? What product is that? I'd love to see a video on your faux binding...
I used to use Timbermate but Switched to aqua-coat on the advice of Texas Toast..
Thanks for this. I enjoy hand sanding. Maybe it's my OCD.
Sound amazing but what if i can't get that filler in our area
what should i do for another idea.pls
You might have to use whatever is available in your area. The process should be similar. Another option, if you're using an oil finish would be to wet sand with the finish you're using. This can create a slurry of oil and sanding dust that will fill the pores too. Then you can proceed with your finish.
Question for you... How did you not pull the grain filler out of the pores when you wiped the wood with the wet rag at the end? I'm also trying to fill some mahogany with water-based grain filler (from StewMac) and I'm having a really hard time cleaning off the sawdust without pulling the filler out of the pores.
I haven't used the stewmac filler, but I only made sure the rag was a little damp. I would think it might cause problems if its too wet.
Is it possible to take a red-ish toned satin finish mahogany guitar and tint/tone/dye it to a dark brown? If so, could you point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance
Sure, you could just sand it completely back to bare wood, stain it then re clear coat it. It would take some work but would turn out nice. There are also tinted clear coats you might be able to use over the existing finish. I think Stewmac sells some. I haven't tried those myself.
This seems so easy and in fact it is...up to a point. I tried a few times with a tele and a strat body. In both cases, after 1-2 coats of grain fill and sanding, it seemed very smooth. However, when I sprayed the white primer, a lot of small defects became evident. I scratched back the primer, did again the grain fill then put some shellac on top, and after that, the primer. But again, a few (but definitely fewer) small defects were still there. I just can't find a way to get a glass smooth surface at the primer level. What am I missing?
Me too. Drives me mad.
hi there, i removed the paint from my bass guitar, after mutch sanding, there still on the wood grain little white stripes from the previous "filler" I want to finish with a clear lacquer, the "white stripes" on the grain is pretty visible when we get close to it, what is your advice? shoud I countinue to sand it? or I will make a mistake of keeping taking wood? cheers from Portugal! sorry for mistakes
Most likely the filler is pretty deep in the grain and will require a fair bit of sanding to remove it. Depending on how much needs to be removed this could possibly remove too much material from the body. Maybe you could apply a light stain to the body to help blend in the filler, or give it some sort of contrast if you didn't want to keep sanding. Really though, sanding is the only way I know of to completely get rid of the filler.
Hey - thanks for this, I just found it. Can one use different colour filler for other ‘effects’?
Sure. That would be a neat way to get different looks.
Hey Jeff, great vid. did you use the red mahogany or neutral timber mate? I've read that the mahogany filler turns pinkish red when it dries. Thank you.
I have used the mahogany filler on a humidor and it did dry pink.
This is the exact information needed. Thanks!
Do you suppose this product would take an oil finish rather than a clearcoat?
I think an oil finish would work fine. I have used oil based clear over this. Like everything though, a test piece would be advised.
Left handed guitar, cool
I see the "I Like to Make Stuff" sticker. I like I Like to Make Stuff
Since it is water based, I would not rub it with a wet rag after. You could make a big mess. When Timbermate is used, I would avoid using any other water based products after that. This product is made to reconstitute by re- wetting it with water after it has dried. That's why you can reuse any unused portion that was mixed.
I’m getting a mahogany body. Was going to use a Minwax mahogany gel stain to colour. If I use timber mate before the gel stain will it affect the final color of the finish? Thanking you in advance.
It should be just fine to use under your stain.
Thanks for the video... this is really helpful. There's an unfinished mahogany body in the mail on its way to me currently. I was planning on sanding to 220, grain filler, sand, grain filler, sand, sanding sealer, stain, aerosol poly. Is that an acceptable process? This is my first build.
+Kyle B sounds like a reasonable process to me. Have fun with it.
Jeff Baker thanks for the reply! Just trying to get input from a couple people who have done it before to make sure I don't totally screw it up! So many opinions out there it's hard to separate "rules" from "opinions." Thanks!
Dude- you’ve got skills. This is way more difficult than you make it look. That stuff dries out when you look at it wrong. Great job
Thanks. Since this is water based, you can just add water back to it if it dries out.
Can this product be thinned with a black water based dye? I'm wanting to fill grain on my tele which is also mahogany black.
I would think so since its water soluble.
Yes, I’m doing something similar, and I used Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, Minwax Ebony Stain (NOT POLYSHADES), and a putty knife. I’m actually waiting for it to dry right now, but with what I can see, it looks fantastic!
Is it necessary to apply a sealer after sanding down the TimberMate before applying a dye such as Transtint mixed 50/50 in lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol?
Its not necessary at all. I would think the sealer might prevent the dye from soaking in well. You could seal after the dye if you wanted.
Done DIY, most usually get the body color then seal with a dewaxed shellac or whatever is appropriate for the project. This way there's less interfering with the body color once the pore is filled with grain. This is also true if you're dying the filler for accentuation of wood, but don't want to screw with the body color as much. There's multiple ways to go, this is one.
The timbermate is a sanding sealer too.
I got a nice mahogany tele body with some dents, can I put the filler over that or am I going to be stuck with obviously filled spots?
That should have read after I fill the dents can I put pore filler over it to hide the repairs.
It’s funny, the first thing I said when I opened it was, “WHOAH THAT’S A LOT OF BAND-AIDS!” That is a very distinct smell. Not unpleasant until you can’r wash it off for a day or two, then it gets old. It’s still the best grain filler out there and beats a mineral spirits or vinegar smell by a mile!
I know. Why does it stay on you for days and days. lol.
Thanks for the great video. Can you use nitrocellulose lacquer over Timbermate?
Any answers?
Apparently yes. It's also a sanding sealer from what I've read about it. Can't complain about a 2 for 1 product.👍
Because this is a water based product does this mean that I have to use a water based dye, clear coat, etc, or can I use an oil based product on top of the timber mate? Thanks!
You can use whatever finish you want. It will work fine. 👍
I was advised to use a coat of sealer over the timber mate before top coat application. Not sure if it’s required but I know I didn’t have any problems. :)
FYI, that's a chemical respirator not a particulate respirator, and if you want those filters to last you a lot longer you should keep it in a large zip-loc baggy when you're not using it. Otherwise the cartridges are just absorbing all of the random fumes in your shop while you're not even using it. I realize that those thin white filters are suppose to be particulate filters but that fabric is actually very cheap and not very effective. Standard N-95 masks are much better for dust because the fabric is made with a static charge so that dust particles actually stick to the fabric. When Covid started last year I was laughing at all the people on the news talking about washing and re-using their N-95 masks or using alcohol to clean them because once they're wet the fabric loses the static charge and they're 90% less effective 6:49
Thanks for that info. I've been looking for a replacement and will keep this in mind.
Like the stick comment. I have thousands of feet of lumber , but can not find a stir stick , ever.
Good. Job on the filler info
Its funny how that works. I just sliced down a handful of them the other day so I have some.
The best filler for pores in wood is the dust from sanding the project mixed with wood glue. It will look just like "Timber Mate". It might be the same thing, I don't know?
I have found that method to turn a weird color. It may just be the type of glue I'm using though.
Hmmm! Id never used wood dust and glue as a whole body filler no stain will ever go on evenly . 😎
@@homebuiltshop ,If you use Tite Bond 2 or similar glue it will be darker which is alright with dark wood but with lighter woods a glue that drys clear would be a better choice. I have used this method for many years and have no complaints.
I used four coats of a spray can grain filler and now I sprayed it with nitro but it still seems to be very porous. Does this go away if I sand the nitro finish?
Were the pores completely filled before applying the nitro? If not, they may not fill in well without sanding and applying more nitro. It may take more costs to get it completely smooth.
@@homebuiltshop it felt like they were closed but maybe I haven't looked close enough. But is it "repairable" by using more nitro? Thanks for your quick response!
I think it is. If you sand and reapply more nitro it should fill in eventually. It make take several applications. Eventually it should level out.
@@ar_pe4012gggg
What do you use to clear coat the guitar?
You can use whatever you like. This one got finished with many coats of gloss lacquer.
After that, can you dye the wood before the clear coat?
You sure can. It will work great.
@@homebuiltshop thanks! I'm gonna use mahogany for a project, maybe an sg and I was a little bit confuse about which thing went first. One more thing, would you use water based or alcohol based dye? Cheers from Spain
After you have filled the grain, after that point do you paint the guitar of color of your choice then clear coat in top of it or clear coat after filling the grain then paint the guitar and clear coat again over paint?
After filling, you could paint it then clear it. Or if you're not painting it, you could apply the stain or dye then clear that. This is what I'll be doing.
Jeff Baker Thank You very much...so there is no need to prime the guitar after filling the grain?
+Mr. Luv luvster if you are painting it, it definitely wouldn't hurt to prime.
It depends on the product you're using to fill. Typically, you'd want to stain/paint first if you're concerned about the color. If a good amount of the wood is porous, like mahogany, you're going to be filling in the grain with either oil or water based products, that will be a big part of your surface. Also, you won't be 'coloring' the pores after they're sealed if it's a clear coat, so if you use clear filler first, all that wood will not color. If you're painting on, same thing depending on the products. After staining you can use a sealer to lock in the color and then fill. You have to really plan out the project with the products you'll be using so you can figure out the timing of each process so nothing conflicts.
Does it work on all types of wood?
+Jeffrey Potter sure. They sell many different colors, you can even add water based dye to tint it to the color you need.
One coat works for this or does multiple coats need to be applied?
It depends on how thick you apply it. For me only one coat was required. If one isn't enough, its simple enough to apply a second.
Thanks Jeff! I'll go with 2 just to make sure. This is my first guitar and I want it to come out right.
Awesome. You won't go wrong with 2. Best of luck on the project. Hit me up if there's something I can help with.
Not sure why i been hearing much that mahogony needs to be filled i did much sanding with different sanding gritts the wood is absolutely smooth with no purous feeling it turned out great.
There are different species considered "Mahogany" each with their own grain and poor structure.
Old Timer if you’re putting a thick film finish you want to fill the pores so it’s glassy smooth to the eye not only the hand. The finish will go into the pores and not be level with the non pored wood. It takes a lot more coats and leveling to achieve a truly flat film finish
Wooogie
How much should I sand the wood filler?
+Jamie Beattie I sand it down to the bare wood. The filler will remain in the pores.
Hand with 320 is enough to level the filler down to surface. After applying by scraping gently with a plastic card or similar, just scrape excess off as best you can. It cuts down the sanding you'll need to do to level it back out after it dries.
why not apply it with a silicon spatula?
+Zantrop64 that's a good idea. I may have to try that.
Jeff Baker thanks, but on a second thought, you daid you don't want it too thick, sooo... Good luck :)
Try egg White works very well
It s been just one coat of grain filler ? What next, grain sealer ?
Many thanks.
You could go to sealer next, but in my experience, the filler is enough. It all depends on the finish you're looking for. If you want it super smooth, sealer might be a good idea.
No eye protection???
Grain fill with top coat.
Apply sand apply sand, ect.
Never use filler.
Yep, Timbermate filler stinks quite a bit.
😷👍
zpoxy seems a better solution.
Don't use this product for neck joints without adding a plasticizer. It will crack. It has no flexibility what so ever.
blow it out and keep it in a zip lock back bro
Simple but not that easy to figure out. the first time I tried that zipoxy stuff and that was a disaster.
Please handle that body with care man because left handed guitar player required special finishing touch. Majority of the market caters and produce their guitar for right handed. And lefthanded got not much choice to choose either modify or get a lousy giutar with crazy price.
Truth! So hard to find a good lefty for a decent price. 👍
That scene where you dressed up like a coal miner just to sand the non-toxic filler.
Its not so much the non toxic part, but I just do not want to be breathing all the dust.
@@homebuiltshop : What dust. I didn't see any dust.
Why are you shouting so much? Can you adjust the level of your mic and speak normally? It’s not easy to listen to that whiney shouting voice!