Here's A Beautiful Way to Finish Mahogany with Tung Oil, Step-by-Step
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Full discussion on our blog!
www.woodworker...
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We think mahogany is a super cool wood to build furniture with - it's easy to work with, and it looks absolutely fabulous with a good wood finish. Especially an oil finish that gives the wood a bold, natural color.
So check out this video. We made this table from hard white maple (the base) and genuine mahogany (top), and the combo is awesome.
We'll walk you though how to wet-sand a tung oil varnish to fill the grain and bring out the color, then how to use an ultra-simple gel polyurethane to give it a lot of protection and a nice, warm satin sheen.
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Check it out, and visit our website if you're interested in build some projects out of mahogany.
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Products used:
Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish
Zinsser Seal Coat
Old Masters Gel Polyurethane, satin
Old Masters Paste Wax 
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I'm confused, why use oil if you're covering with shellac and poly? Is it for color? It seems like an extra step. Thanks in advance for the explanation. Still learning these techniques. Great videos!
For the most part, it's just choices. In this case, the oil finish gives the mahogany a slightly warmer color than shellac alone, and therefore I liked it. Then the act of wet sanding the oil filled the grain that gave the wood a slightly different look that the shellac wouldn't do. So, you're right. The oil is an extra superfuluous step if you don't care for the subtle differences it offers. Unless you like it - then it's a step that's well worth the effort.
Tung oil definitely darkens and warms wood like shellac and polyurethane just won't. Especially darker woods like mahogany, walnut, and cherry.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom WORTH THE EFFORT!!!!! Now I have to go buy Mahogany! My wallet hates you right now XD
I had the same question only more so since there's the added step of wet sanding using what is being generally referred to as Tung Oil varnish to fill the grain. The key word being "varnish" answered my question.
"Tung Oil Varnish" is not Tung Oil. It's simply Varnish with Tung Oil in it. Most all varnishes have some type of oil in them.
You'll get there same effect from any warm tone varnish.
You can't wet sand pure Tung Oil or other similar oils to fill the grain. Cure times and hardness don't allow for it to be practical.
Also, for wet sanding the grain, normally you'd do this during your sealing coats and squeegee once the wet sanding is done to force the slury into the grain. Then remove the excess. Allow to cure, sand, then do it again till the grain is filled. Once the grain is filled go with a normal coat methods.
This video is not about Tung Oil really. It's about combining varnish, shellac, gel poly with a coat of wax on top.
The varnish and shellac give the tone, the poly protection, the wax.. just a useless step after the poly honestly. Furniture polish before it's needed.. Lol
The table looks good though. Mahogany is a beautiful Wood.. filling the grain the way it was done brought it out nicely.
Cheers...
@@YknotLearnall The wax step actually had a couple of purposes...if I may. First it speaks to the appearance of the tabletop. Instead of simply accepting the satin poly’s sleek look...for those who have been around a while, poly furniture, although durable, it lacks a subtle quality that makes it appear like a one of a kind, custom piece of furniture. It would be perfectly acceptable to stop after almost any step of the finishing. But if you look with a more critical eye (I hope that is one of your goals...working with wood by hand...would be to develop your critical assessment} so you can not only differentiate between mass produced furniture and custom work that is created with a sense of quality and pride.
Using wipe on products, not only gives the wood a customized look, reminding most of that old world craftsmanship that is rarely seen today, it also offers a custom look using techniques that were developed long ago, and formulas or combinations of products, “the recipes” of which were closely guarded by the carpenter as it gave his furniture his distinct signature, his brand, if you will. Quality furniture could easily be assigned to a particular wood worker if you are familiar with his style...making an actual signature unnecessary. My personal goal working with wood, is to have my work, one day, represent me long after I am gone. It is my art and one must always consider if it does remind others of you, what message did you intend to put out there.
That said, even if wood working is simply a hobby for you, why not use your hobby as a way to leave behind something that will stand out. Or, if it makes you happy to just spend time, piddling around, that is OK as well. And one more thing, if you are still reading this, a good paste wax will act as what we call a “sacrificial coat”...a place for you and yours to make a scratch or two, that can be easily repaired with a fresh coat of wax. Without the extra protection of the wax, the scratch would have been in the poly coat, making it a much larger product for repair. Think of it sort or like the clear coat of paint for your car.
This is how woodwork videos should be. Very well presented. Thank You!
Currently using this method on a grandfather clock I built. Just have 2 more coats of gel varnish and then the paste wax. It's turning out amazing! Thank you for the clear and organized video!
LordTannet1 that's great to hear! So glad you're liking the results on your project!
Mark -This is an impressive process that obviously works well. The grain is maintained clearly but still sealed well. I can't wait to try this method on a African mahogany credenza project I'm currently building. You rock brother!
Im gonna do this to my honduras mahogany dining table since my families new kitchen is almost done in construction with dark red cherry cabinets. This was the best looking color i could find for the table. Thank you
Your videos are amazing. A true gift to the wood working community.
The shellack idea is brilliant, it’s like an art preservation technique where a preservation layer is applied between the finished artwork and the varnish so the varnish can be removed without the risk of damaging the artwork!
Not really. There’s no way to surgically remove the 3 layers of Poly without burning through the single layer of shellac below.
I tried your method on my African mahogany square wood pieces that served as wheeled platforms for my speakers. I am happy with the result. I did not want to fill the grain with wood filler, it seems even after much sanding the African mahogany had a lot of rougher grain. So when I waxed it, some grain had the white wax in it! But after a run of Old English dark wood polish, it covered the wax in the grain. Thanks for the great videos.
The mineral oil trick for the shellac sealcoat is awesome
My desk turned out awesome, I will use this method again. Thank you
Six years later- as simple as abc! Thank you for the video...
You bet!
Saving this video for when the guitar kit I ordered comes in. The look of that finish would look great, I think
You have the patience of a saint! And yea, it looks amazing :)
Interesting process. I've never heard of wet sanding stain, and I've definitely never heard of rinsing sandpaper in solvent to reuse!
I'm a new subscriber and have watched two of your vids so far. You have totally transformed and refined my finishing techniques, not one of my stronger qualities. I'm in the process of completing a small tropical almond live-edge side table and I still have time to employ your techniques in the final stages of finishing. I'm confident, based on your videos, it will end up with a much nicer final finish / product in the end. THANK YOU! I very much look forward to your future videos!
I also loved it to use tung oil on my project. And one thing i just found yesterday. That tung oil will look more better if it's applied into every brown/darker color of wood. For a bright/near white color of wood, it will looks awkward. But still, tung oil really is a good oil finish. 👍👍👍
Nice tutorial. I have a mahogany backed guitar with a 3/8” flame maple cap I was just going to put tung oil on. I’ve used tinted water based poly as a finish before, but I think the tung oil (possibly with a little transtint) will make the flame pop and leave a more natural hand rubbed finish look to it. Your process here should work very well for me.
Fantastic tutorial video. Thx for the great technique and tips. Best regards.
Wow - what an amazing surface you’ve created!
I love doing a sanding slurry with pure tung oil then topping it with Old Masters Tung Varnish. Which confusingly is mainly linseed oil based, but also contains something like 5% tung oil.
Correct. It’s also just an “wiping varnish”, which is just oil based varnish thinned with more mineral spirits. Oil based varnish is also may be made with oil, including some tung, but it dries hard vs a drying oil finish, or an oil/varnish blend that’s sometimes called “danish oil”. Old masters Tung Varnish is not even a Danish oil blend-it’s just thinned varnish.
Mark, many thanks from the UK! Another great finishing tutorial.
Thank you, glad you appreciate it.
Beautiful finish.
Beautiful result ❤
Great video Mark. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Matt!
Nice work. Good video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
Very nice! Similar to how I finished my guitar. I'm gonna use it on a bed stool I'm building.
Would love to see that guitar!
Woodworkers Source You can look up Robert Hart stewmac. There are two vids. A pictorial, and one showing the guitar. It's a stewmac kit.
Robert Hart I checked out the vids, what a great looking guitar! It looks like a lot of work to build one.
Woodworkers Source Thanks. It is a lot of work but well worth it. Turned out to be my favorite guitar.
Well done. Beautiful finish and all the information needed.
Great to hear, thanks
Nicely done all the way around, thanks for that video.
You bet, thank you
dang that looks amazing, definitely doing this at some point
Nice job I really liked this one.
Hopefully you see this - in the process of doing something similar on a dining top but the poly is just not going on well. Used tung oil finish for 3 coats, buffed out but not wet sanded (didn’t know that was a thing), then started applying wiping poly (no shellac). The poly just pools and doesn’t absorb and I’m lost. Never had issues with applying poly before, but all was on stained pine instead of hardwood. Thanks!
What ever you're using for that tung oil finish has prrobably now sealed the wood in a way that it won't allow the wipe on poly to absorb in the wood fibers. That's okay, it's not necessarily a bad thing, but that's likely why you're experiencing that. I don't know what exact products you're using, so it makes it difficult to tell you what to expect or do at this point. I would probably apply the poly in lighter coats and wipe it off as gently as possible but as much as necessary. Let it dry. Scuff is smooth. Repeat that process until you're happy with the build up of coats and/or the sheen.
great video. very educational
Thank you!
You make all your videos such a pleasant viewing experience. How necessary is the sealcoat? What benefits does it offer?
Seal coat is not necessary here at all. These product labels are intentionally confusing. Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish is just a “wiping varnish”, which is just thinned varnish. You can just buy varnish and thin 50/50 with mineral spirits yourself. People think can think it’s a drying “tung oil” finish, but it is not. It is not even a tung oil/varnish blend, aka “Danish oil”. It is just thinned regular varnish, which dries hard.
The sealcoat is not necessary because varnish is compatible with varnish, even across different brands and types of varnish. Here, we are just putting a layer of matte varnish over the thinned wiping varnish.
A shellac coat has many uses, especially as a problem solver. But it’s not needed here.
That's really cool. Very impressive and explained well. I want to try this.
wow.. i like your videos. very pleasant very easy to watch and power packed with info. thank you
If I get this, the wet sanding accomplishes what some people would do with grain filler? Helpful video, by the way!
Excellent video, thanks for the tutorial. One question on the process: only one coat of the shellac? I saw everything else had multiple coats. Thanks!
nicely done video, straight and to the point in formation. Thank you.
Best video I have seen yet for a simple Mahogany finish. I've been looking for exactly that color finish for a Mahogany Stratocaster guitar build. Quite a few more curves than this, but the same basic technique I'd think. I wonder if a using a thinner wipe-on poly might be easier than the gel poly for the final finish for a smaller item like a guitar with less surface area and multiple curves?
Yes, you’re probably right about the easier finish
Beautiful!
To my way of thinking, you just can't beat wax over tung oil when it comes to mahogany.
Very nice!
The wet sanding method of filling pores is the most underrated process in wood finishing. I do this on all my walnut furniture. No dust getting in thee pores and it makes the surface as smooth as a baby's butt
Don’t let anyone know 🥸🤭🤭
This is so helpful and detailed! I have an old table top that has a mahogany veneer and had quite a bit of heat damage. I stripped off the varnish was on it with a chemical stripper and it got a bit lighter in colour but I think it looks really nice. I know I could sand, stain etc. but if I just want to protect it and leave it as it currently looks, could I just do the gel poly and wax or is that going to cause some problems that I can't imagine?
What grit sandpaper are you using to wet sand between coats? Awesome video thank you
Great job! I built a house while you were doing that.
👍👍
Mark I know this isn’t in the video but I wanted to ask a pro. I did a walnut live edge bench and finished it with Rubio monocoat pure. My question is can I wax with paste wax or wax like walrus wood wax? Just want to bring out the sheen just a tad bit.
Hi, I just received an old wooden conference table that my husband got for me to use in my sewing room, I have cleaned, sanded and applied 2 coats of Danish oil dark walnut. I would like it to have a nice slick finish but not varnish or anything like that, I love the look of natural wood. I will need to cut fabric on it and want the finish to be slick and not sticky. I was thinking of just using wax and feed and be done with it but then I worried about oil getting on my fabric.
Any suggestions, I hope that I have not gotten ahead of myself.
Grateful for any help. Your videos are wonderful by the way.
It was my understanding that because most canned shellac preparations have wax in them, which causes problems when used with a polyurethane top coat. Did you prepare your own shellac with flakes?
This is a great video. Thanks. My question is if I want a darker color. Should I stain before or after your first step? My assumption is before, since it's a tung oil VARNISH but I want to verify before I begin.
Technically you could do it either before or after. No harm either way. You’ll get stronger color difference if you stain the raw wood vs sealed wood.
Thank you for that tutorial. That was very well done. It seems a modern take on the French Polish technique I have been looking for.
I am restoring an old mahogany dining table and wonder if after the initial ‘oil/sandpaper’ filling layers, I could just alternate with tung oil and dewaxed garnet shellac to approximate the original finish then finish up with wax. Also is that a pure tung oil or a blend with polymers... and could pure tung oil be used successfully or would drying times be too long.
Many thanks in advance, you earned a new subscriber.
George
I’d say stick with the oil (3-4 coats maybe?) until you’re satisfied and want to move onto garnet shellac. Oil on top of shellac might not work out. $0.02
How are you I am traying to refinish the outside of commercial building in New England we have mahogany post and trim can you advise what to do please.
Can one skip the shellac layer and jump straight to the wipe on poly after the oil coat?
this is what I am wondering also?
So you’re applying eight coats of tung oil for a durable finish? Is there a shortcut for durability? Also I will finish an exterior door. Is there a poly with sun protection?
Both Naphtha and Mineral Spirits are catch all names. Although, there are different grades.
Which you'll only be able to identify by looking at the MSDS.
you look exhausted! that desk should sell for $10k after all that TLC.
Thanks for the great video; the table top is stunning! I am a bit of a novice, and have a raw mahogany table top that I'll drop a bar sink into. Can I use this technique to bring out the grain - with the product used in this video - and then use a clear epoxy coat to waterproof it? I would wait at least a week for the stains to fully cure. Will this work? Please advise; I appreciate it!
Yes, that will work out just fine.
I need a slower description of hee "dewac(x?) shellac"? Can you explain that step better please?
Do you know of a good way to fill the grain AFTER using tung oil (Formby's). Nice table.
You said that we could choose to omit the dewaxed shellac and gel polyurethane for projects such as dressers, boxes, etc because of less wear and tear - would I still benefit from the 8-10 coats of tung oil varnish then finishing with the paste wax? Or do I skip paste wax if I didn't do the middle steps? Thanks!!
Would this method work on a walnut dining table?
Walnut looks divine with tung oil. Go for it.
I feel like I can see a lot of wiping marks from the jail polyurethane after applying the topcoat of paste wax. Did I not Scott enough after the job polyurethane dried?
I like what you showed, is there anything else you give a more glossy shine?
Nice job, and video production. I've used African mahogany in the past, love the ribbon stripe and color. Just completing my first project using "genuine" mahogany and I've been disappointed with the softness and the bland, blond appearance. I might give this method a try. Thanks!
I've used some African mahogany and I think it's has a better look as well.
Thanks for all the great videos! I just purchased some Red Grandis from you guys. Does this finishing method work well with it ? I know Mahogany & Red Grandis are completely different species but they do share some of the same characteristics. I'm just trying to figure out a good way to finish this project.
I appreciate you and the great video. Please answer a question: Why was only the top processed in this video? Were the legs etc finished in a different manner? If so, how in a few words? Thank you.
Yep, the table base was finished with spray lacquer. The video is about mahogany, so we didn't get into the maple base on this one.
What would you recommend as an alternative to naphtha , unable to purchase it where I live. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, very beautiful finish.
Ah, okay, then instead of mineral oil mix in a little bit of mineral spirits. It will work just like a lubricant as well. And it will evaporate off the project by the time the shellac dries and then you don't have to clean it off with anything. Takes a little getting used to, BTW.
Exactly the answer I was looking for! Thanks!
niiiiiice
Would you change your approach to finishing the rest of the table if it was made entirely of mahogany?
Only slightly. Probably would only apply the tung oil varnish on the legs and/or base in 2 or 3 coats. Wouldn't bother with the polyurethane on those parts. But in the end, it's builder's choice. Not really a wrong way to do it.
Do you have links to purchase the products?
Is the white synthetic pad supposed to scratch the surface so the paste wax adheres better? Also, why is it important to mist when you are scuffing? Thank you!
The water gives it a little bit of lubrication, it’s more of a preference not required.
I'd love to have a nickel for every trip that hand made up and down that table...
siick!
Hmmm hard to find anyone doing a pure tung oil finish... Always the thinned varnish with some tung oil in it...This looks nice but not what I was looking for...Guess I'll carry on looking :) ...
Mark how did you finish the bottom of the table?
The same process
Do you think this would work well on a mahogany guitar body?
Is the shellac supposed to look dull on top of the tung oil Varnish before you add the poly?
Can you please give me a reply?
Dull is okay.
Great video.
Can I use for teak ?
Would you be able to use beeswax instead of the paste wax?
Tried this method here in Hawaii on table made of monkey pod. Did five coats of tung oil, was gonna finish it with tung oil, then watched this video. Wished I wouldn’t have, don’t have gel poly here on the island, thought I would substitute with wipe on poly. Huge mistake, I hate poly, it’s so hard to work with,so sticky and smudgy, all I got was smears and streaks. Sanded and sanded and an sanded. Streaks followed by sanding, followed by more poly smear. Wish I had the gel poly to work with but I don’t. Had to sand it back down and will just finish with tung oil. Also, every time I wet sand with the tung oil even at 600 grit all I get it super steamy oil marks. How do I prevent that?
What was the purpose of the wipe down with Naptha step? There wasn’t an accompanying explanation for that step. Thanks.
To get rid of
So is the poly just for added water protection?
Mark,
Is there any Added benefit or deepening of color if you add a SECOND COAT OF THE Dewax Shellac? I am using this exact method for my Mahogany Bartop. Also just verifying, Can I cut the shellac with Mineral Spirits rather than Mineral Oil??? Will it have the same effect???
No there’s not going to be much of a deepening effect with another coat. It’s just there to provide a sure fire surface that the poly will adhere to. But yes you can use mineral spirits too for making it easier to apply
220 grit for the wet sand?
400
How long can I go between coats of the gel coats
Is there a substitute for naphtha? I couldn’t find it at the big box stores 😕
Actually, instead of mineral oil, change to mineral spirits or painit thinner. Then you don't need the naphtha. Mineral spirits plays the same role (keeping it slick), but it'll just evaporate so you don't have to clean it off.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom awesome!! I have those so I’ll get right to it 👍🏼
Hi, thanks for the video. Been looking for a way to finish maple butcher block counters and this is the look I want.
Why the Shellac in between the poly? And I have found I like RealMilkPaint's dark tung oil looks on the wood. Any issues using 100% Tung oil instead of Tung Varnish in the process you showed in the vid? Thanks in advance
The only reason for the shellac is just insurance. Poly stands a better chance of adhering over the long haul that way.
Otherwise, no issues with using pure tung oil. Just choices.
Thankyou for the interesting, informative video. I have some questions. You said the Mahogany was freshly cut. Does that mean the piece of wood you are working on came from a freshly harvested tree? I'm going to guess the answer is no, because that would mean that it wasn't seasoned, which would not bode well for the future stability of that table top. (Unless maybe it was kiln dried?) I ask because I have gotten my hands on some nice pieces from a very large West Indies Mahogany tree that was harvested a week ago. I'm anxious to work on it but understand that it must be properly dried/seasoned first to attain stability.
No. Didn't mean to imply that it had recently been sawn from a tree. Just that it had just been freshly worked/milled from rough stock.
Woodworkers Source Thanks for your reply, I figured as much. I have no kiln so it will probably be a long time before my mahogany is seasoned enough to work on. At that point I will revisit this how-to video and anticipate the same beautiful results you demonstrated so clearly, effectively and generously.
@@plk5520
Hello, Patrick, from Joseph in Esquimalt, BC, Canada. I'm 76 in Feb 2019, a wood-worker since 1963 when I formed my business, 50+ yrs in carpentry, wood-working, and finishing. I've lived in the interior of BC, mid-Slocan Valley, once home to the best Western Red & Yellow Cedar to be found, but 95% of the 1st growth's been harvested. Here are my thoughts on your query:
1. Air-drying is best to dry green lumber. Heat may be quicker, but it's not as deeply penetrating and doesn't allow the wood to fully express itself after it's been released from the tree. The wood is in racks w/1"+ spacer sticks 4' apart, air temp not over 20 C., in a covered shed, away from sunlight & rain.
2. Depending on thickness, density, & moisture, it may take a year+ to reach 16% moisture content; use a meter to measure it. Be patient.
3. It's understood you have rough-sawn timbers; NEVER mill, dress, or plane any wood until it's 16% or less moisture.
4. When ready, dress wood to the nearest whole inch above final size, i.e., 4"x8", return to the air-drying shed if need be until it's 16% or less. Sorry!
5. While you use Standard International, I'm old-school and use feet & inches, but the procedure's the same. Be patient for the best results.
Congratulations & good luck with the outcome. I'm sure you have competent people to advise you on milling and grain orientation. You'll have have to accept the majority of your lumber "as is", but a few pieces may be resawn to yield better grain orientation.
Was this done with pure tung oil or was it diluted?
Somewhat depends what you mean by that. Used it straight out of the can, so I didn't dilute it, but the product is a tung oil + varnish blend. So you could arguably say it's already diluted.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom ahhhh ok, i get what ur saying. I was thinking this was a pure tung oil. Thanks
Great video! The table top came out beautifully. A couple quick questions! Did you use any type of wood filler before or after sanding? Also, i am working on a table top of genuine mahogany, and really want to pull out more brown color from the wood... any tips on how-to?
well, thank you much! No there is no off-the-shelf wood filler used on this one, just the wet sanding demo'd in the video. As for the brown color you want, I'd suggest two things to try on a test piece.
1. prep sand, then apply a coat of clear sealer (like the dewaxed shellac used at 3:33). After it dries apply a dark brown gel stain by wiping it on and wiping it off gently. That gives it just a kiss of brown.
2. If that's not brown enough, you'll need to try applying a brown dye before those steps above. I would That's the ultimate way to control the color.
Check out our blog, you might like the look of the "Cognac Mahogany" finish we demonstrate here:
www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/3-more-easy-exquisite-finishes-for-mahogany-woodworking-projects/
This is why woodworkers source is the best! I’ll check it out! Thanks a lot! After applying the gel stain on a test sample, should i seal the wood with anything else above the stain?
@@WoodworkersSourcecom
Clint calll
why do you need shellac between oil and poly?
You might not need it. It's just insurance. Poly sometimes has trouble adhering to other finishes except dewaxed shellac. So it's just a layer to ensure it adheres.
Hi.
Can I use the same method on veneer?
Yes
What grit did you wet sand at?
400 grit
Looks great, but why not just hit it with some cetol and call it a day? ;-O
Skinning cats 😎
I think it looks awesome, but I feel like poly takes away the natural feel of the wood
the poly isn't only for style, it is the armor, the beam if that makes sense, it holds everything together, without the poly, the table would chip away over time
Try to electroplate it too.
Noticed no difference after the 1st coat
The cool thing about this process is... you don't have to attempt it. :D Heck, you don't even need to comment about it.
So... In other words, wipe it on, then quickly wipe it all off? Gotcha.
So many hazardous chemicals to wrap the wood in plastic. To each their own, I guess.