Best Ways to Fill Wood Grain | Which is Best?
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- Wood grain filler test! I do a comparison of two popular ways to fill wood grain prior to painting furniture or cabinets. I love oak. But I don’t always love oak grain so this video shows you different ways to fill wood grain, including using DRYWALL MUD! I use wood grain filler to fill the grain in oak boards so you can see how much of a difference it makes before painting your wood furniture or wood cabinets. A lot of us have dated looking wood cabinets or an old piece of furniture that is begging to be refinished. I show you three techniques that you can use on wood. I use wood grain filler and drywall mud / joint compound to fill the grain in test boards, and then I painted them to see which worked better. Then, I show you how to fill wood grain, but then apply a clear finish over it. It COMPLETELY transforms the way wood looks!
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Drywall mud / joint compound: amzn.to/3cBuJjx
Timbermate walnut wood filler: amzn.to/39v4ZmZ
Timbermate oak wood filler: amzn.to/3wgk6ug
BIN primer: amzn.to/3ubP3hj
White paint: amzn.to/3whWntK
Shellac: amzn.to/2QPMSl3
120 grit sandpaper: amzn.to/2QW835c
180 grit sandpaper: amzn.to/39y5kVM
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This was a requested topic. I was asked to cover different ways to fill wood grain. I thought it would be fun to show a comparison between two common ways to fill grain prior to painting. I also wanted to show that you can use these techniques in your projects that don't involve paint. It's pretty unbelievable how different a piece of wood can look once the grain is filled and finish is applied.
After watching this and other vids, I went ahead and did exactly this on my oak kitchen and bathroom cabinets, after a thorough clean/degrease, sanding and deglossing, I thinned white oak timbermate thin enough I could brush on with a 2.5" brush, which made application easy, dried quick, then sanded back to the wood, could really tell where grain was filled by the timbermate, then primed twice with BIN and sprayed 2 coats of BM Advanced with a 310 FFLP tip, sanding between each primer and top coat, was a Ton of work but looks great and the timbermate did an amazing job filling in the grain..... Thanks for the video, really helped me choose my process for the grain fill! Cheers
Thanks. This was interesting and helpful. It would be useful to see this done on wood that already has been stained and sealed. Many people want to paint cabinets that already have a finish rather than being raw wood.
Great vid. I ended up putting on four thick coats of the pink spackle that turns white when it dries. I brushed it on, almost thick as cake batter, then squeegeed it smooth, and very lightly sanding each coat with 220 after drying. I then put on two coats of the Zinsser white cover stain primer followed by two coats paint. Zero woodgrain and perfectly flat finish.
"If everything is peanut butter, than nothing is peanut butter".
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Just dropping truths.
Great video. Instead of premixed mud, I plan to use the kind you mix with water; some call it "hot mud" or "quick set.' If anyone tries this, do not use Durabond. It's extremely difficult to sand.
How did it turn out?
The joint compound slurry worked great, thanks. Much cheaper than the grain filler they sell at HD, which you don’t need if you’re just painting over it. Tried some wood putty I had first, but no go since it wasn’t water soluble.
For real. Ppl search this and aqua coat pops up. I learned this technique years ago. Drywall mud is my go to for cabinets and you don’t have to wait 24 hours…That and the fact he used the absolute worst paint ever (Rustoleum $5 a quart) made me laugh.
"If everything is peanut butter, then nothing is peanut butter." For that alone I gave this a thumbs up.
Good comparison. I'm going with the mud technique myself and always use Zinsser BIN primer (it is the best), but sand it very lightly before the top coat. My old oak kitchen cabinets will be painted, but only the frames, not the doors... since I'm making new doors.
Tip... get the fast set mud. They make it in a quick-set form that should dry in less than 2 hours at most. It is usually sold in a dry bag you have to mix.
Thank you so much for posting this video my man. I just finished tape and floating my garage and I was left with some compound. Now I know what I can do with it. Thanks :)
AMAZING VIDEO!!! I learned a ton, thank you! Very well done with all the comparisons between the fillers and how you finished them.
Not sure how you came up with this idea, but it was awesome and I can’t wait to see more videos!!!!
I think that the drywall mud performed great, but it probably shrunk a little bit of while it dried, which is why I could faintly see the grain. Accounting for that, I don't see why that wouldn't be a great option for filling wood grain. By the way, I'm NOT taking solicitations for cabinet refinishing. Just FYI. 😉
@@NewtonMakes 😂
Have you tried Aqua Coat? Curious how it compares.
If you get a piece of oak wet the grain will raise you will be able physically feel the grain start to pop out. This might be part of the reason you see the grain more with the mud since it dries much slower and more of the moisture is has time to be pulled into the wood. If you wet the wood then sand it smooth before you apply a water based anything, you
Thank you ! Very Informative. You taught an Old Dog New Tricks. God bless and Merry Christmas
I noticed that a number of people asked about Aqua Coat but they were not answered. Could you tell me if it is any different that the Timber Mate product? That would be very helpful. Thank you.
dry wall compound works better when you dilute down with water to a paint consistency and the brush it on, working into the grain.
That's how I do it!
Joint compound shrinks. You've got to use hot mud. Like 90 45 or 20. I would only use 5 on smaller repairs.
Great video! Super helpful
İ like it very much. I'll use it when I made my desk in near future. Thanks.
Awesome to hear!
Spouses credit card, lol. That is so true. I laughed so hard I think I hurt myself. Do you have insurance to cover this injury?, lol.
Good test glad I found this video
Will the mud crack and shrink over time? I thought you were supposed to use a non shrinking filler especially in a kitchen due to temperature varies more in kitchens with cooking and steam.
I think you’re missing one type of pore fillers . When i was working in cabinets we were using a proffessional pore filler . It was like thick brown paste and was sold in a 4L or a galon aluminium “paint” container . With that you could do a full oak kitchen for sure 😉 . With that you were 100% certain that what ever you do you won’t have the grain showing even with lacquer . With lacquer no dimples but the grain is there !! 😜
There are several ways to fill grain. Cabinet shops have been doing it for years. I didn't want to show anything too industrial or expensive. I wanted it to be accessible and basic.
What kind of professional pore filler do you recommend?
@@jasonchong9154 Crystal lacquer and pore filling .
I saw many videos applying 1st coat of primer first, then apply the wood filler, and then apply 2nd coat of primer. After I saw your video, I think I'm gonna skip the first primer and go for the wood filler first.
Uh I don't know what you're talking about. 1992 was a great year. Baby got back, Wayne's World, and oak cabinets. Seems great to me.
I can't say that you're wrong. 🤷♂️
it really was !!!! 😋
I found the absolute best results with a solvent based wood filler. Then the water based paint doesn’t react with the filler. It gives the absolute smoothest finish.
Saw a guy use light weight shrink free spackle diluted to pancake batter consistency. Easy application , just paint on . Ever tried that?
Thank you! This was so helpful and well done! Love the comparisons! Definitely subscribed.
Thanks! Glad that this could help!
Great video!!
Biggest concern with mud would be chipping or cracking due to bumps, rough use (kids, wife in a mood).
Once it's painted it would be fine. Like base molding. That's often mdf. The paint protects it.
About to find out how well this works!
Sweet!
Would it work to thin the filler down with the paint I’m using?
What do I use on my joint for smooth and professional finish?
Fantastic video!!
Thank you, sir! 👊
Wow, I'd never have thought to do the darker filler it looks some much more character filled than the other which is still grandmas dresser full of the plates no one is allowed to use.
It's a cool way to change it. Add in some stain and these boards will be completely different looking.
How do these compare to raising the grain and then sanding it down? That’s how I learned to minimize grain, particularly with oak?
That helps with shallow fibers on the surface, but not the deepness of the grain. Compare oak to maple. Oak has deep grain while maple doesn't. Filling the grain will make the oak as smooth as maple. Plus, it's kinda cool to fill it using different colors.
@@NewtonMakes I definitely see some fun possibilities in filling the grain with different colors!
Can you do this on already painted wood?
Would I need a certain color if I'm painting my oak kitchen cabinets?
Nope, but I always find it helpful not to color it something super contrasting. If I'm painting oak white then I probably won't use black filler because it'll take more coats of paint to cover it. But all colors ultimately work.
@@NewtonMakes I'm going grey and I have them sanded down pretty good. Do I need to get the one you used? Please help!
Any issues or concerns with the wood warping since the filler and mud have water mixed in?
Nope, none at all. If we're dealing with super thin wood then perhaps, but if mud can be applied to drywall with gets destroyed by water then wood isn't a problem.
My go to is bondo.
Great information, but that 80’s video game music was driving me batty.
If you use 20 minute spackle, you can get it all done in a day.
Interesting subject. While painting oak makes my stomach turn, my wife is all about it. Thanks for the tips!
I'm with you. I don't like to paint wood unless I have to.
In the filler color test, the walnut filler looks more like the red oak I remember from my childhood. The other one looks more classy and natural.
I can see that. That's why I made sure to say that people have different tastes. I remember some oak showing a lot of dark grain and then it seemed like at a certain point all of the oak was super plain, with the grain not as visible. Regardless, it's kinda cool that filling the grain can really change the look of a board!
Why not just use aqua coat
That what you use in YOUR video. Imma Google that tho
Boom thank u
Welcome!
Use a faster drying mud
To be fair. If your looking for the MDF look, either buy MDF or Buy melamine sheets. Because, realistically on a project your looking at damn near 3 months for something basic if your sitting there filling grain
Drywall shrinks when it dries. You need at least two coats. Wood filler is expensive and hard to sand.
You don't like the layered look of paint??
how do u like your wood?
-baby butt smooth 👍👌
Every. Single. Time.
Sorry but the music is distracting and annoying…hope I can make it though the video.
LOL no you don't use drywall mud. Go get a can of bondo. Dries to sand-able finish in 3 minutes or less
EXPENSIVE & fumes fumes fumes but it's an awesome filler