This review is deficient. There was no taste test. But, maybe that's because I deal with a toddler all day, and everything goes in her mouth. It's also, probably, why my vocabulary shrunk from thousands of words to 5: "stop," "no," and "don't do that." I'm sure tee-spring can whip up some "I love the smell of Band-Aids in the shop" shirts.
I have used DAP Plastic Wood without any problems. If you moisten the putty knife or whatever you're using to apply it with a little water, it goes on smooth and doesn't clump.
I've tried that, and tried pressing it in with a teflon type plastic sheet... still behaved crumbly and didn't feel as solid as wood when it dried. I wonder if we are getting old product from local stores?
If the drydex spreads so well why does it dry and crumble immediately after I touch it?? Am I doing it wrong? Even with a puddy knife, it just pulls itself put ofbthe holes.
I decided to give Gorilla wood filler in white a try and it works like gangbusters, it spreads easy sticks well and sands easy. Once painted you can’t tell where the holes were. It also works for some small damage repair.
If you are in a cold climate area. Bondo will allow spreading time for about 7 minutes. Noticed in summer time (dry/100+ hot) spreading time is 1¹/² minutes.
Hardener is distributed by the amount of past. So if you have a little bit of past and allot of hardner it becomes easy to crack. (It's to hard, especially in changing environments that need fluctuations) If you use allot of past and little harder, yes-easily to smooth out. But will gum up when Sanding. Your logic is understood. But your danimic of chemistry with chemical reaction seems to be naive.
This was a great video, I rarely comment, I think the way you asked the viewer to like subscribe and share was the most sincere, authentic and humble I have ever seen and thanks so much for
THANK YOU! I bought the Famowood and Bondo after watching your review. And I definitely found my magical unicorn wood filler 😂. I was EXTREMELY impressed with the Famowood after using plastic wood and Elmer's. The bondo, I had to get for the versatility and durability. Just a tip.. I've been using a wood / metal file to smooth my bondo down and it makes the sanding process feel effortless.
I’ve been recently using the Dap plastic wood and have been very happy with how it performed. I used another type first from Minwax and it cracked terribly. The cracking with the Dap plastic wood was very minimal and only occurred a little when filling very thick areas all at one time instead of only adding an 1/8 inch at a time as recommended.
I have good interior window sills but due to rain and denting over the years they need to be revamped. I am looking to use a good wood filler for the interior wood, easy to sand, prime and paint. What would you recommend? Preventing from cracking and moisture in the future?
I use the drydex but in the “toothpaste tube” it is incredibly easy to apply to nail holes over a large scale. If you leave it proud, sand it back and paint it is great. You can use a damp scrubby sponge to “sand” it with no dust also. I’ve been wanting to try the famowood but I want it in a tube! 🤣
Timbermate is the best I have found. I used a professional grade at a cabinet shop I worked. If it started drying out you used lacquer thinner to fix. Didn’t like the smell or cost but it did work great. I’ve used most of what you compared in this video but I really like the water base Timbermate. Just spray on a mist of water and stir. Thanks for comparing these!
Which wood filler would you recommend for an outdoor use like on a porch post? I previously used the Plastic Wood water based filler to fill in my post then primed and painted over. It’s been almost a year now and it’s cracking and peeling off. Would hate to remove it all and start from scratch.
i would say use wood hardener before applying the filler so that there isnt as much water penetration, based on comments ive seen trying to get answers for a similar question.
This is one of the best videos on wood filler, everyone else says you gotta buy some expensive special made filler, as long as it fills grain it works! haha. One thing I wanted to point out with bondo, which i use all the time, is if you want it to harden slower, use less hardener, just dont use too little other wise it wont harden all the way, but if you use less, and mix it more, usually you can get about a 30min spreading time out of it if you get the ratio right, just do some smaller scale experiments before working on your work piece, cause it is a pain to get off if you dont put enough hardener in and it doesnt harden all the way.
Durham’s “Rock Hard Water Putty” should have been on the table for consideration in this review. It’s really an amazing wood filler for projects to be sanded and painted. Found it at Home Depot.
thank you, never noticed it... looks like local h depot has it (one of the worst websites ever, every item I search, wants to take me to stock in a city hours away). Thank you
You can absolutely tint the "bondo" type body fillers, and some of them are a white base. I mostly use Glasurit double plus, which also spreads MUCH nicer than bondo and can be feathered out much better. You can also get white cream hardener, which works with with all the polyester based fillers. The trick is to tint with dry pigments (or sawdust) which you can mix BEFORE you add hardner. When adding sawdust, you actually gain some toughness (but trade off some feathering), just make sure you use extra fine dust. It's harder to gauge how much hardener and how well you've mixed when using white hardener if you're not familiar with body filter and mixing though. Also check out the short strand glass reinforced body fillers. They kick even faster, but they are rock hard and practically structural!
Use the bondo if you are doing something like filling lockset holes when setting a new door. You can drill your new locksets out. All the other's in the list will not do. Depending on the job, and what to use, is always the hard part.
I bought some Famwood in 23 oz for some aged wood trim. It is very thick and doesn't like to stick to anything. I could not squeeze into the cracks even after thinning with acetone. It seemed best for larger voids. It is solvent based thus better for exterior, sort of like play dough. I like the timber mate for smearing into cracks. The Australian made water base is premo too -not pictured here.
Interesting 🤔 I think the difference is the Famowood I fell in love with is the water based stuff. But that makes sense that the solvent based Famowood isn’t very good because I found the same thing to be true with the DAP that the water based was superior over the solvent - unless quickly filling nail holes like in a cabinet shop then the solvent based makes sense simply because it dries faster. Also, epic username!
I heard some termite control companies are using One Pass as a wood filler for rotted or infested wood. It's fast setting and workable in a few minutes.
Bondo would be a good pick. Just make sure you're handy with it. When you mix the activator, you'll have 3(!) minutes to work with it before it hardens, so practice with a small amount beforehand to get used to it (watch vids of it). Prolly even better than this is Mr. Woody. It's the same type of exothermic reaction but you have a longer time to work with it and it won't get hot. I don't know why this vid didn't cover it as it's extremely well used by woodworkers and gets higher user reviews than Bondo.
the timbermate sold here in Oz is almost always the light tan color. once i made a big mistake trying to fill a large hole with an oil based filler. was supposed to dry slower and hence have no cracks...but it didnt dry at all, after several months it was still like plasticine. timbermate does harden up over time when not in use, so may require adding water and elbow grease to re-mix well.
I have a piece of Furniture a chest of drawers..the corner is damaged from a drop; it's between wood and marble top corner missing... would love to know what to use... Thanks for the Feedback!
I love using dap plastic wood natural in the red and yellow can. Especially for exterior work being stained. It blend in so seamlessly after being sanded and after staining with semi transparent stain with a color…you can NOT tell where it was applied. 😃
If im just patching up cracks, knot holes, small voids for a wood that i will paint and use in the exterior wood, will titebond III and sawdust be a good solution. Will the expansion and contraction of the wood cause this solution to fail at some point? How deep of a crack can i fill using this solution?
I'm working on am old door, I moved some.of the rotted wood but it seems the rotted goes deep. Will finish what can tomorrow, but what would you, or the others recommend? Note: the door has been out in the elements for a long time, yet the body is strong, save for the few rots.
If the door had termites you're better off replacing the door/trim than patching it. Mostly likely the wood is shot and disintegrating in unseen places.
I’m trying to fill in a small bit of missing fake wood veneer on a kitchen cabinet. I’m going to tint the putty, but I need to know: 1. Which of these will have a smooth, eggshell finish. 2. Which of these is stiff enough that it won’t flow and droop while it is setting - given that I’ll be filling a vertical surface. 3. How much does each product shrink?
I'm guessing Spamo is your favorite. Right now I'm using Plastic Wood. I definitely should have watched this video yesterday. Thanks for all the good information.
Is Famowood flexible? I need a product to fill gaps between my floor boards. I've used the Dap products and they've cracked and fallen out. The floor boards move so I need a flexible solution. I was leaning towards the TimberMate until you mentioned the smell which my wife would not be appreciative of. But once dry, it shouldn't smell, right?
This video was four years ago, but I checked just now at Walmart and Famowood is $0.28/oz, but you have to buy a whopping 13lb bucket to get that, for $55. Sizes any smaller than that top $1.00/oz.
I would have guessed Famowood or timber mate, but I went with Famowood. Also I'm going to go buy some for the 1900 dresser I am working on. Thanks for this review. I needed something like this. Sadly I have to remove what I already did. I missed the 'non hardening" label. Who need non-hardening filler??
I definitely understand the weird smell fetish. I've always loved the Testors model glue Lol I bought a bottle at Hobby Lobby to keep in my desk just for those days.
thank you, have struggled with Dap products for years thinking I had lost my touch (crumbly stuff that won't fill and sands out) ... will search for Famo... or Timber mate. Not much selection available locally, odd... high density population, poor selection of everything in local big box home stores. DIY filler? how fine does the sawdust have to be? Tired of big containers of products drying out, might try that. And interested in playing with tinting... Great video, thank you!
Informative but i question to what accuracy because it's evident that you haven't used the pink spackle, for if you did, you would know that the pink turns white when it dries.
I have a love hate relationship with plastic wood. In Canada it's sold under Lepage, I dont know if the formulation is the same as DAP. I really love it because it cures to a hard filler that adheres surprisingly well, but you waste a boat load of it because it forms a skin and refuses to spread properly. Despite that, it has adhered to the substrate very well once you get to sand it. Very strange behavior. It is not recommended to thin it, but acetone and 99% isopropyl alcohol work. Even if it seems like it turned bad, I tested that it still works 100% fine. I really like the hard finish, hate the application. Elmers makes the ProBond Max filler, it's my favorite. it is water based, exterior rated and dries to a slightly softer finish than plastic wood, suffers somehow from similar spreadability issues, but my god it's durable and it dries quickly. Barely softer, but more flexible, it holds fasteners. Mixing it with some DAP acrylic caulk gives it some extra flexibility at the expense of dry time.
Great review. You did touch on the usage, however. The sparkling is more for household such as filling small holes in walls. The glue and sawdust, to me works great on fine wood 🪵 working projects. Plastic wood I have used, my farther use it as a carpenter back in the 60’s. I don’t like it. It does not seem to stick well and once you open the container it has a shelf life. Bondo, great on metal, not so good on wood. The two advantages is it’s fast, the other is you put it on and almost immediately use sure-form plane or a scraper to remove what you need while it is still in gel form. I use (guessing) what I think will work best for what I am doing.
My only disappointment with Titebond glue, used as a filler (mixed with saw dust of course) is that no matter how much its color approximates that of the wood, once it dries out it changes color and goes very dark. I've used Titeebond II and III- same problem with both. The sanding is very hard and messy (the glue turns into paste due to the heat during sanding) but I try to remove as much as possible before the glue dries out. Alternatively one can use an angle grinder with a sand pad attached to it as opposed to using an orbital sander. Much quicker removal, that way.
I bought the dap plastic wood, i wish i would’ve seen this video before, i had such a hard time with it, I only did one cabinet out of like 20 and it took me over an hour 🤦🏽♂️
For my particular use, none of you criteria help. So which top two would you pick for filling a hole, drilling a hole right next to it and: holding a screw where the screw partially goes into the filler. I need drillability and screw holding power. Wood glue gets hard as nails as you say and is too brittle. Sawdust added to it might help give it some ductility but I'm looking for a drill able wood filler recommendation
When filling an old screw hole, i have successfully glued a piece of dowel or chopstick tightly into the existing hole, then reinstalled screws in the same place about 24 hrs later.
As a professional carpenter, the one I use the most is the water based Plastic wood. It adheres really well, sands really well and is very tough. It is very durable regardless of what he says. It can also be used in an exterior application. And if I have really big voids to fill I’ll use bondo then use Plastic wood as a final filler because it sands so well, and because it’s so durable. I don’t know what he was trying to do with it, who knows..
And it drys fast. Not as fast as their solvent based version, but the solvent version is more difficult to sand. So use the water based version kids. You’ll really hate yourself if you’ve got a fairly large project and you’ve chosen the solvent one. Get the one in the (plastic tub)
@@wyattsdad8561 Hello, and can the water based Plastic Wood be stained? I have a bow window and the seat has been ruined with water that dripped from our hanging plants. I am trying to fill in the seatboard with something so that I can then stain it back to its original look. Thx.
I find working bondo a bit before adding the hardener to soften it helps. Perhaps adding powdered dye to the base, andworking it in w a putty knife really well before adding the hardener?
A lot as to do with the project. I had to do an exterior repair for porch post. Cut out some rot and added hard word to fill the void. Bondo was perfect. It’s sets really fast so as long as you do small batches and are ready to roll. It worked great. Sanded and painted it was hard to find the repair. With that said I sure wouldn’t be filling nail holes with this stuff or trying to color match on a furniture repair.
I looked to see if the DAP Plastic Wood it's in a small tube haven't tried it yet but after I started licensing to your website I got a lot of Iifo so I think I'm going to subscribe Love the way you give information looking g forward to I see you again
Honestly M C, I'm unsure. I don't have much experience there. I would imagine the criteria wouldn't be too much different, but again I don't know. Sorry I can't be of more help
11:25 "If you have a corner of a piece that you broke off and you're trying to repair it, I would recommend Bondo." This is exactly what I was looking for. I chipped off the corner of a new wood screen door planing the top edge.
The DAP Plastic Wood is a lot better than you give it credit for. I've used it for several projects and have had very good results. Dip the spatula or trowel n water before dipping into the product for better spreading.
Loved the initial "get to the point" review. I'm doing a big project with GARBAGE post-covid plywood and I'm basically finishing every sq in before prime/paint. These fillers got spendy, fast. So I experimented with 45 minute drywall mud. Slap it on, grab my 14" knife, and I filled all the grain. What's your opinion/experience with that? @Craftswright?
Thank you for taking the time in breaking down all the wood fillers and results. can you recommend what filler to use. I am re doing kitchen cabinets. filling all the holes from the hardware. I want something thats durable and basically easy to fill with great results after being sanded. I thought the Timber Made would be appropriate. ???? Thank you again !!!!!
I been doing woodworking for years now I built some Adirondack chairs I you the first three wood filler after years of being our in the rain and the sun I use it to fill up screws heads after 6 years I see the wood filler in comings out I fill some holes in a piece of wood around the window with Bondo it till there I use Bondo wood filler it been there longer than the chairs yes it more trouble but I think it’s worth it in the long run
I rarely use wood filler, but when I do it's always dried out. Every project or repair I do requires a new purchase. The only thing that even comes close to prolonging the stuff is to purchase a type that has a large lid, then I put a paper towel on top and put some water on it to keep the product damp. Even that only works for a while.
My # 1 is timbermate. I haven’t used all of these products yet but I have used some of them. The spakle works great over ply that is going to be painted. Used a lot of this on a home library build. The wood glue & saw dust works but is a pain to mess with in MHO. I bought some bondo for my garage door repairs but haven’t gotten to that yet because of the high heat of summer. (on me not the product) I totally agree with you on the plastic wood. Junk Timbermate works well for me. I don’t mind the smell, it sands good & is easy to use. Thanks for the video.
Hey Kevin, sounds like we're ranking them just about the same which is pretty neat. I can see how the spackle would work well there, but for just a little extra drying time I think I would still use the famowood because I think it's a little more durable, but man does that spackle spread like beautiful buttercream haha My dad, who used to do fiberglass work on boats, swears by Bondo, but I find it a little hard to work with. But he also had some really pro techniques to go with it like waiting for it to 50% cure and then knocking it down with a cheese grater, letting it cure a little longer, then smoothing it with a denatured alcohol rag, before final sanding kind of stuff. Hell he even said they used to spray it which was a race against time before it kicked inside the spray gun 😂
I have an old 5 panel door that has a huge chuck missing on the lower edge near where the hinge would be placed. Hoping to restore it myself - can you help?
Thank you for the review. I really like Timbermate filler. I like how it takes stain. You have piqued my interest in trying Famowood. Plastic wood is the worst filler I have ever worked with.
I'm really surprised that one of your choices isn't Minwax wood filler , not only does it have a good working time is gritty so it fills in great and sands down easily, not to mention its for both in door and out and is stainable. Any of those dap products once you open them even keeping the lid on them they dry out bad with the minwax i have found if i add a touch of water (less then a half oz) to it once in done with it give it a light pass over so that moisture stays on top and seal it back up i can use it multiple times over a longe period repeating that process without having to toss it out or get a small amount. The bondo is good for really deep bad damage because of how fast it drys out but you need to not make much more then your going to use and figure out your working time the hardener agent depending on how much you add can be a quick as 2 min and about a long as 7 or 8 min max plus you need to make sure you get a much extra off a you can before it gets hard especially if you don't have a electric sander. But if you have alot of 1/4 inch deep fills or less my go to is minwax fills great doesn't take alot of time to dry and do to its grittyness sands in a second then wipe with cloth then stain or paint.
I need to repair and kind of "build out" an exterior door frame scratched to heck by dear sweet doggo. From the review I am thinking either Famowood or Bondo due to durability. I need something that I can "form" and not dry too fast. With the bondo I'm a little concerned at how much sanding may be involved. Any users here that would recommend otherwise?
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This review is deficient. There was no taste test. But, maybe that's because I deal with a toddler all day, and everything goes in her mouth. It's also, probably, why my vocabulary shrunk from thousands of words to 5: "stop," "no," and "don't do that."
I'm sure tee-spring can whip up some "I love the smell of Band-Aids in the shop" shirts.
YOU SIR....get a pinned comment lol
@@Craftswright I can now die happy, satisfied and fulfilled 😂
I recommend the glaze one ;)
A1
Well explained 👏 👌
I have used DAP Plastic Wood without any problems. If you moisten the putty knife or whatever you're using to apply it with a little water, it goes on smooth and doesn't clump.
I've tried that, and tried pressing it in with a teflon type plastic sheet... still behaved crumbly and didn't feel as solid as wood when it dried. I wonder if we are getting old product from local stores?
Ty
1. Spreadability - 1:05
2. Sandability - 2:43
3. Tintability - 3:37
4. Durability - 5:50
5. Cost - 6:43
6. Smell - 8:28
7. Review - 10:43
8. His pick - 12:40
If the drydex spreads so well why does it dry and crumble immediately after I touch it?? Am I doing it wrong? Even with a puddy knife, it just pulls itself put ofbthe holes.
Bless u!!!
A gentleman and scholar!
I decided to give Gorilla wood filler in white a try and it works like gangbusters, it spreads easy sticks well and sands easy. Once painted you can’t tell where the holes were. It also works for some small damage repair.
Finally someone who reviews for something more than just filling holes. I've been looking for advice on grain filler for oak. This is great!
If you are in a cold climate area. Bondo will allow spreading time for about 7 minutes. Noticed in summer time (dry/100+ hot) spreading time is 1¹/² minutes.
Put less hardener
Hardener is distributed by the amount of past. So if you have a little bit of past and allot of hardner it becomes easy to crack. (It's to hard, especially in changing environments that need fluctuations) If you use allot of past and little harder, yes-easily to smooth out. But will gum up when Sanding. Your logic is understood. But your danimic of chemistry with chemical reaction seems to be naive.
Famowood comes in 24 oz tubs at $0.37 cents per oz currently at Menards
Thanks for the review. I was inside a small town hardware store and they happened to have the one you said is your favorite! Can’t wait to use it
This was a great video, I rarely comment, I think the way you asked the viewer to like subscribe and share was the most sincere, authentic and humble I have ever seen and thanks so much for
I've used DAP and the pink candy, dude the candy works great with drywall/sheetrock.
THANK YOU! I bought the Famowood and Bondo after watching your review. And I definitely found my magical unicorn wood filler 😂. I was EXTREMELY impressed with the Famowood after using plastic wood and Elmer's. The bondo, I had to get for the versatility and durability. Just a tip.. I've been using a wood / metal file to smooth my bondo down and it makes the sanding process feel effortless.
Famowood 1001%! I've been using it for many years and works on every kind of wood project, worth the extra $$
Do you have one you recommend for being painted?
I’ve been recently using the Dap plastic wood and have been very happy with how it performed. I used another type first from Minwax and it cracked terribly. The cracking with the Dap plastic wood was very minimal and only occurred a little when filling very thick areas all at one time instead of only adding an 1/8 inch at a time as recommended.
I have good interior window sills but due to rain and denting over the years they need to be revamped. I am looking to use a good wood filler for the interior wood, easy to sand, prime and paint. What would you recommend? Preventing from cracking and moisture in the future?
are you reviewing automotive bondo, or , bondo for wood?
He’s reviewing the all purpose Bondo. Personally, I highly recommend the auto Bondo.
I use the drydex but in the “toothpaste tube” it is incredibly easy to apply to nail holes over a large scale. If you leave it proud, sand it back and paint it is great. You can use a damp scrubby sponge to “sand” it with no dust also. I’ve been wanting to try the famowood but I want it in a tube! 🤣
Thank you so much for a thorough explanation of wood fillers! Best I've seen so far.
Wood condo comes in colors. I purchased it in a light tan color. It matches the wood. I hope it stains well.
You didn't talk about drillability or screwability. If I need to rescrew at a particular point, which wood filler would work best for that?
and now I'm leaving the video. thanks haha
The wood glue and saw dust mixture is my vote for most drill-able and screw-able. Otherwise, Bondo.
Glue and dowel/toothpicks/golf tee. Then your pick for going over that if you want
Timbermate is the best I have found. I used a professional grade at a cabinet shop I worked. If it started drying out you used lacquer thinner to fix. Didn’t like the smell or cost but it did work great. I’ve used most of what you compared in this video but I really like the water base Timbermate. Just spray on a mist of water and stir. Thanks for comparing these!
The water-based DAP Plastic Wood spreads good. You just have to add a little water to it. When you first open the container, it's usually too dry.
Which wood filler would you recommend for an outdoor use like on a porch post? I previously used the Plastic Wood water based filler to fill in my post then primed and painted over. It’s been almost a year now and it’s cracking and peeling off. Would hate to remove it all and start from scratch.
i would say use wood hardener before applying the filler so that there isnt as much water penetration, based on comments ive seen trying to get answers for a similar question.
I looked up Famowood and was impressed that it’s sand ready within 15 minutes. Ordered some.
Btw. 24oz natural color for under $12.
This is one of the best videos on wood filler, everyone else says you gotta buy some expensive special made filler, as long as it fills grain it works! haha.
One thing I wanted to point out with bondo, which i use all the time, is if you want it to harden slower, use less hardener, just dont use too little other wise it wont harden all the way, but if you use less, and mix it more, usually you can get about a 30min spreading time out of it if you get the ratio right, just do some smaller scale experiments before working on your work piece, cause it is a pain to get off if you dont put enough hardener in and it doesnt harden all the way.
Durham’s “Rock Hard Water Putty” should have been on the table for consideration in this review. It’s really an amazing wood filler for projects to be sanded and painted. Found it at Home Depot.
I saw this and wondered about it
thank you, never noticed it... looks like local h depot has it (one of the worst websites ever, every item I search, wants to take me to stock in a city hours away). Thank you
You can absolutely tint the "bondo" type body fillers, and some of them are a white base. I mostly use Glasurit double plus, which also spreads MUCH nicer than bondo and can be feathered out much better. You can also get white cream hardener, which works with with all the polyester based fillers. The trick is to tint with dry pigments (or sawdust) which you can mix BEFORE you add hardner. When adding sawdust, you actually gain some toughness (but trade off some feathering), just make sure you use extra fine dust. It's harder to gauge how much hardener and how well you've mixed when using white hardener if you're not familiar with body filter and mixing though.
Also check out the short strand glass reinforced body fillers. They kick even faster, but they are rock hard and practically structural!
Use the bondo if you are doing something like filling lockset holes when setting a new door. You can drill your new locksets out. All the other's in the list will not do. Depending on the job, and what to use, is always the hard part.
I bought some Famwood in 23 oz for some aged wood trim. It is very thick and doesn't like to stick to anything. I could not squeeze into the cracks even after thinning with acetone. It seemed best for larger voids. It is solvent based thus better for exterior, sort of like play dough. I like the timber mate for smearing into cracks. The Australian made water base is premo too -not pictured here.
Interesting 🤔 I think the difference is the Famowood I fell in love with is the water based stuff. But that makes sense that the solvent based Famowood isn’t very good because I found the same thing to be true with the DAP that the water based was superior over the solvent - unless quickly filling nail holes like in a cabinet shop then the solvent based makes sense simply because it dries faster.
Also, epic username!
I heard some termite control companies are using One Pass as a wood filler for rotted or infested wood. It's fast setting and workable in a few minutes.
whats the best one for wood floors that contract and expand
That's my question
Would you recommend any of those to repair a guitar that has 2 inch by 2 inch damage
Bondo would be a good pick. Just make sure you're handy with it. When you mix the activator, you'll have 3(!) minutes to work with it before it hardens, so practice with a small amount beforehand to get used to it (watch vids of it). Prolly even better than this is Mr. Woody. It's the same type of exothermic reaction but you have a longer time to work with it and it won't get hot. I don't know why this vid didn't cover it as it's extremely well used by woodworkers and gets higher user reviews than Bondo.
the timbermate sold here in Oz is almost always the light tan color. once i made a big mistake trying to fill a large hole with an oil based filler. was supposed to dry slower and hence have no cracks...but it didnt dry at all, after several months it was still like plasticine. timbermate does harden up over time when not in use, so may require adding water and elbow grease to re-mix well.
If i use the pink stuff on treated plywood will that be ok its for my floor in house ?
I have a piece of Furniture a chest of drawers..the corner is damaged from a drop; it's between wood and marble top corner missing... would love to know what to use... Thanks for the Feedback!
Thanks for the review. Which product would you suggest for repairing screw holes in kitchen cabinets?
I love using dap plastic wood natural in the red and yellow can. Especially for exterior work being stained. It blend in so seamlessly after being sanded and after staining with semi transparent stain with a color…you can NOT tell where it was applied. 😃
I just used some of the dap plastic wood stuff- totally agree- spreads like crap, haven't sanded it yet- I don't expect great things
You saved my day. Needed to repair a dresser tops edge. Thank you so much!!!!!
Which would you recommend for filling finish nail holes in trim that will be painted?
If im just patching up cracks, knot holes, small voids for a wood that i will paint and use in the exterior wood, will titebond III and sawdust be a good solution. Will the expansion and contraction of the wood cause this solution to fail at some point? How deep of a crack can i fill using this solution?
I'm working on am old door, I moved some.of the rotted wood but it seems the rotted goes deep. Will finish what can tomorrow, but what would you, or the others recommend?
Note: the door has been out in the elements for a long time, yet the body is strong, save for the few rots.
what do you used to patch a front door s
tain that had termites
If the door had termites you're better off replacing the door/trim than patching it. Mostly likely the wood is shot and disintegrating in unseen places.
Will bondo hold up to dimensional instability of using it in wood thought? Will it crack?
Thank you - we'll give Famowood a try!
I’m trying to fill in a small bit of missing fake wood veneer on a kitchen cabinet. I’m going to tint the putty, but I need to know:
1. Which of these will have a smooth, eggshell finish.
2. Which of these is stiff enough that it won’t flow and droop while it is setting - given that I’ll be filling a vertical surface.
3. How much does each product shrink?
Thanks for the in depth review!
Will timbermate or famowood work on an outdoor fence that I plan to paint over with white paint?
I'm guessing Spamo is your favorite. Right now I'm using Plastic Wood. I definitely should have watched this video yesterday. Thanks for all the good information.
Can I mix tide bond with DAP wood filler? Thanks
Is Famowood flexible? I need a product to fill gaps between my floor boards. I've used the Dap products and they've cracked and fallen out. The floor boards move so I need a flexible solution. I was leaning towards the TimberMate until you mentioned the smell which my wife would not be appreciative of. But once dry, it shouldn't smell, right?
i would use linceed putty. not used timberbuild but heard its the best around now and most expensive.
This video was four years ago, but I checked just now at Walmart and Famowood is $0.28/oz, but you have to buy a whopping 13lb bucket to get that, for $55. Sizes any smaller than that top $1.00/oz.
I would have guessed Famowood or timber mate, but I went with Famowood. Also I'm going to go buy some for the 1900 dresser I am working on. Thanks for this review. I needed something like this. Sadly I have to remove what I already did. I missed the 'non hardening" label. Who need non-hardening filler??
Usually thats for surfaces expected to expand/contract quite a bit and can cause others to crack or shrink. Probably not good for a dresser though
I definitely understand the weird smell fetish. I've always loved the Testors model glue Lol I bought a bottle at Hobby Lobby to keep in my desk just for those days.
thank you, have struggled with Dap products for years thinking I had lost my touch (crumbly stuff that won't fill and sands out) ... will search for Famo... or Timber mate. Not much selection available locally, odd... high density population, poor selection of everything in local big box home stores. DIY filler? how fine does the sawdust have to be? Tired of big containers of products drying out, might try that. And interested in playing with tinting... Great video, thank you!
Informative but i question to what accuracy because it's evident that you haven't used the pink spackle, for if you did, you would know that the pink turns white when it dries.
Oh trust me, I know haha that’s why you get two flavors of frosting from the one DAP 😁
I have a love hate relationship with plastic wood. In Canada it's sold under Lepage, I dont know if the formulation is the same as DAP. I really love it because it cures to a hard filler that adheres surprisingly well, but you waste a boat load of it because it forms a skin and refuses to spread properly. Despite that, it has adhered to the substrate very well once you get to sand it. Very strange behavior. It is not recommended to thin it, but acetone and 99% isopropyl alcohol work. Even if it seems like it turned bad, I tested that it still works 100% fine. I really like the hard finish, hate the application.
Elmers makes the ProBond Max filler, it's my favorite. it is water based, exterior rated and dries to a slightly softer finish than plastic wood, suffers somehow from similar spreadability issues, but my god it's durable and it dries quickly. Barely softer, but more flexible, it holds fasteners. Mixing it with some DAP acrylic caulk gives it some extra flexibility at the expense of dry time.
Great info Rolf, I'll have to give the Elmers a go if I can find it down here (can't see why not)
Thank you for this video ,indeed it helped..I'm headed out to try Famawood ,I'm trying to fill cracks in some plywood ....Quickly
Awesome! Just bought some Famowood! Thanks a bunch!
13:30 is where final ranking starts. Thank me later.
What’s the best one for filling floor gaps?
I would love to know
Which is the best wood filler for wooden floor pranks that have shrunk
Over time and leave a space between the boards .
Great review. You did touch on the usage, however. The sparkling is more for household such as filling small holes in walls. The glue and sawdust, to me works great on fine wood 🪵 working projects. Plastic wood I have used, my farther use it as a carpenter back in the 60’s. I don’t like it. It does not seem to stick well and once you open the container it has a shelf life. Bondo, great on metal, not so good on wood. The two advantages is it’s fast, the other is you put it on and almost immediately use sure-form plane or a scraper to remove what you need while it is still in gel form. I use (guessing) what I think will work best for what I am doing.
Which one is better for painting?
@Craftswright what is best for carpenter bee holes?
My only disappointment with Titebond glue, used as a filler (mixed with saw dust of course) is that no matter how much its color approximates that of the wood, once it dries out it changes color and goes very dark. I've used Titeebond II and III- same problem with both. The sanding is very hard and messy (the glue turns into paste due to the heat during sanding) but I try to remove as much as possible before the glue dries out. Alternatively one can use an angle grinder with a sand pad attached to it as opposed to using an orbital sander. Much quicker removal, that way.
I bought the dap plastic wood, i wish i would’ve seen this video before, i had such a hard time with it, I only did one cabinet out of like 20 and it took me over an hour 🤦🏽♂️
Would the Famowood be good for large cracks in exterior window sills? I used Elmer's but it's not looking good a year later.
For my particular use, none of you criteria help. So which top two would you pick for filling a hole, drilling a hole right next to it and: holding a screw where the screw partially goes into the filler.
I need drillability and screw holding power. Wood glue gets hard as nails as you say and is too brittle. Sawdust added to it might help give it some ductility but I'm looking for a drill able wood filler recommendation
When filling an old screw hole, i have successfully glued a piece of dowel or chopstick tightly into the existing hole, then reinstalled screws in the same place about 24 hrs later.
As a professional carpenter, the one I use the most is the water based Plastic wood. It adheres really well, sands really well and is very tough. It is very durable regardless of what he says. It can also be used in an exterior application. And if I have really big voids to fill I’ll use bondo then use Plastic wood as a final filler because it sands so well, and because it’s so durable. I don’t know what he was trying to do with it, who knows..
And it drys fast. Not as fast as their solvent based version, but the solvent version is more difficult to sand. So use the water based version kids. You’ll really hate yourself if you’ve got a fairly large project and you’ve chosen the solvent one. Get the one in the (plastic tub)
@@wyattsdad8561 Hello, and can the water based Plastic Wood be stained? I have a bow window and the seat has been ruined with water that dripped from our hanging plants. I am trying to fill in the seatboard with something so that I can then stain it back to its original look. Thx.
@@artgirl-zx2jh hi, yes the directions on the plastic tub say it is stainable.
Outdoor use. UV affect the filler?
I find working bondo a bit before adding the hardener to soften it helps. Perhaps adding powdered dye to the base, andworking it in w a putty knife really well before adding the hardener?
What the best for filling large voids at the bottom of door jams?
A lot as to do with the project. I had to do an exterior repair for porch post. Cut out some rot and added hard word to fill the void. Bondo was perfect. It’s sets really fast so as long as you do small batches and are ready to roll. It worked great. Sanded and painted it was hard to find the repair. With that said I sure wouldn’t be filling nail holes with this stuff or trying to color match on a furniture repair.
Can you stain any puddys, what would you recommend & can you stain bondo?
I looked to see if the DAP Plastic Wood it's in a small tube haven't tried it yet but after I started licensing to your website I got a lot of Iifo so I think I'm going to subscribe Love the way you give information looking g forward to I see you again
which filler is best to use for a composite deck?
What's the best for trim and baseboards?
Honestly M C, I'm unsure. I don't have much experience there. I would imagine the criteria wouldn't be too much different, but again I don't know. Sorry I can't be of more help
11:25 "If you have a corner of a piece that you broke off and you're trying to repair it, I would recommend Bondo." This is exactly what I was looking for. I chipped off the corner of a new wood screen door planing the top edge.
The DAP Plastic Wood is a lot better than you give it credit for. I've used it for several projects and have had very good results. Dip the spatula or trowel n water before dipping into the product for better spreading.
Great video! Looking for just the right stuff and you nailed it.
Loved the initial "get to the point" review. I'm doing a big project with GARBAGE post-covid plywood and I'm basically finishing every sq in before prime/paint. These fillers got spendy, fast. So I experimented with 45 minute drywall mud. Slap it on, grab my 14" knife, and I filled all the grain. What's your opinion/experience with that? @Craftswright?
Which would you recommend for exterior fascia boards?
Thank you for taking the time in breaking down all the wood fillers and results. can you recommend what filler to use. I am re doing kitchen cabinets. filling all the holes from the hardware. I want something thats durable and basically easy to fill with great results after being sanded. I thought the Timber Made would be appropriate. ???? Thank you again !!!!!
Used DAP plastic wood on my entire house trim afyer that pink garbage was crumbling after application. Would highly recommend for trim work.
I been doing woodworking for years now I built some Adirondack chairs I you the first three wood filler after years of being our in the rain and the sun I use it to fill up screws heads after 6 years I see the wood filler in comings out I fill some holes in a piece of wood around the window with Bondo it till there I use Bondo wood filler it been there longer than the chairs yes it more trouble but I think it’s worth it in the long run
Can orange wood oil be used on Dap plastic wood filler?
I rarely use wood filler, but when I do it's always dried out. Every project or repair I do requires a new purchase. The only thing that even comes close to prolonging the stuff is to purchase a type that has a large lid, then I put a paper towel on top and put some water on it to keep the product damp. Even that only works for a while.
Have you tried MH ready patch?
What is the name of the smallest blue wood glue again? You said that is your favorite. Can I buy that on Ace Hardware or Home Depot? Thank you.
My # 1 is timbermate.
I haven’t used all of these products yet but I have used some of them.
The spakle works great over ply that is going to be painted. Used a lot of this on a home library build.
The wood glue & saw dust works but is a pain to mess with in MHO.
I bought some bondo for my garage door repairs but haven’t gotten to that yet because of the high heat of summer. (on me not the product)
I totally agree with you on the plastic wood. Junk
Timbermate works well for me. I don’t mind the smell, it sands good & is easy to use.
Thanks for the video.
Hey Kevin, sounds like we're ranking them just about the same which is pretty neat. I can see how the spackle would work well there, but for just a little extra drying time I think I would still use the famowood because I think it's a little more durable, but man does that spackle spread like beautiful buttercream haha
My dad, who used to do fiberglass work on boats, swears by Bondo, but I find it a little hard to work with. But he also had some really pro techniques to go with it like waiting for it to 50% cure and then knocking it down with a cheese grater, letting it cure a little longer, then smoothing it with a denatured alcohol rag, before final sanding kind of stuff. Hell he even said they used to spray it which was a race against time before it kicked inside the spray gun 😂
I have an old 5 panel door that has a huge chuck missing on the lower edge near where the hinge would be placed. Hoping to restore it myself - can you help?
Thank you so much for your help!
Thank you for the review. I really like Timbermate filler. I like how it takes stain. You have piqued my interest in trying Famowood. Plastic wood is the worst filler I have ever worked with.
Very informative!! If I want to repair a beam due to dry rot, , which one will be the best from your perceptive?
I'm really surprised that one of your choices isn't Minwax wood filler , not only does it have a good working time is gritty so it fills in great and sands down easily, not to mention its for both in door and out and is stainable. Any of those dap products once you open them even keeping the lid on them they dry out bad with the minwax i have found if i add a touch of water (less then a half oz) to it once in done with it give it a light pass over so that moisture stays on top and seal it back up i can use it multiple times over a longe period repeating that process without having to toss it out or get a small amount. The bondo is good for really deep bad damage because of how fast it drys out but you need to not make much more then your going to use and figure out your working time the hardener agent depending on how much you add can be a quick as 2 min and about a long as 7 or 8 min max plus you need to make sure you get a much extra off a you can before it gets hard especially if you don't have a electric sander. But if you have alot of 1/4 inch deep fills or less my go to is minwax fills great doesn't take alot of time to dry and do to its grittyness sands in a second then wipe with cloth then stain or paint.
Ace brand water based natural color wood filler is made by Famowood, and is $8.00 for 24oz
I need to repair and kind of "build out" an exterior door frame scratched to heck by dear sweet doggo. From the review I am thinking either Famowood or Bondo due to durability. I need something that I can "form" and not dry too fast. With the bondo I'm a little concerned at how much sanding may be involved. Any users here that would recommend otherwise?
Thanks for this. I wish you had included Goodfilla among the contenders. Ever tried it?
I really like comparisons like this!