That gave me an idea of using colored filler and the after sanding to use the leather dyes application the same as each color filler was applied. Like in a dragons breath red, yellow , brown filler . Then work on the dye again to do the dragon breath and fade it all in
If my stain is a oil-based stain do I necessarily need an oil-based finish top coat or is there a reason to or not to use a water-based finish? I plan on having a, I would say satin finish in a color that looked a lot like I guess the one you made at least of the filler was first being applied, that nice deep brown. So I like that color but a little more on the satin and/or Matt looking finish. Any suggestions? Just really mess with my guitars back in the day and painted and did a pretty good job I'd say so myself, but never applied would green filler and there was a couple of discrepancies in that sense on my lovely guitar. Thanks for your knowledge and sharing that with me along with you all RUclips contenters because it's been a lot of time on the internet. I'm just rambling now but anyway what's the what's to say on that oil base or other base finish, look for the information Thanks a lot and keep up the great videos because not everybody can and I feel like you have some thanks have a great one Happy New Year everybody goodbye
Thanks for this video. I’ve got a few questions I’d love to understand if you have time. If you are doing a natural finish do you always tint your wood filler? Can you use stains over woofer filler? And can your use that razor blade clean up method on bare wood if you are taping off to do multiple stain patterns? If not, any advice on cleaning up stain mistakes from wood? Thanks!
Since you added dye to the filler, did that dye also color the wood? You sanded the back of the body, but it doesn’t seem like it is as light as the cavity for the electronics.
After the grain has been filled and sanded.. can coats of danish oil be applied..? will the danish oil go into the wood...? OR should I just seal the grain using the danish oil and wet sanding..? I want to seal and finish a mahogany guitar.
Thankyu for your video.. About the filler.. Do you mean wood filler or sanding filler? And how to apply what is we need both, so we applied wood filler and second we applied sanding filler.. Please your reply. Thanks
***** thank you. i came across a bigger problem, while sanding mahogany back, theres a ton of sand dust all over the guitar, in every scratch and all the pores. guess il buy some compressed air spray cans cause right now its a mess
@@dr.banana2828 small air compressor. Then move to a clean paint room and use a tack cloth to clean remaining dust. Dont worry if you get little specs in the paint and clear, You'll be wet sanding almost every layer you apply if you want a glass smooth surface. I know that thos comment was from two years ago, but it will help someone else eventually
Is the water opening the grain while you put the filler in? I work in hardwood floor and i know we put a very thin coat of regular water down to open the wood grain and get it to accept the stain more evenly. Thanks for the info!
I've been enjoying your vids and learning a lot. I'm in process of my first kit build (LP semi hollow). It has maple veneer too and basswood body. Originally I was planning to use mahogany stain on the basswood, but after a bit of research, understand that basswood don't take stain too well? What do you recommend for my basswood? I'm going to dye the top with some keda.......not sure which yet as I have both the powder and the liquid. 😂 I've sanded to 220 before doing anything, is that good enough. My next grit down is 400. Thanks for your help and enjoying learning from you.
Hey BigDGuitars....Why do you color the filler to a dark brown, when it looks pretty much like the bare mahogany when you are done? Does the color of the filler you use affect the end look much at all? Great videos! Subbed & Thumbed!
Use the filler. Your finish will be much smoother and look better. If you are doing sunburst or any burst remember to clear coat in between coats to give the see through effect.
Filler is not required but as stated, the more layers of clear you apply, the bigger the pores look. Every layer of paint or clear amplifies the size of the pores. You can still achieve a glass finish, if you wet sand almost every layer and keep applying new layers. After about 60 layers of nitro clear, it will be glass smooth. That is a lot of wet sanding with 1200 grit. Been there... done that.... took me 80 labor hours to do a les paul. now I fill almost everything I do.
@@luizmagalhaesbr generally Hard Maple only needs a sealer before lacquer, or only oil applied in several Coates, use #0000 steel wool to smooth out before applying the next coat of oil. Maple is a closed grain wood, mahogany is an open grain wood so you have to grain fill first or your finish will sage into the open grain & give a rough finish. Hope this answers your question. 🤞❤️✌🏻🇺🇦🇺🇸
+BigDGuitars Could I just stain the Ash body (I have water-based dye), sand it back and stain again like in your fantastic videos, and then use sanding sealer? Is sanding sealer a substitute for grain filler? I want to use an oil finish to bring it to a gloss finish. Can I use an oil over sanding sealer?
+BigDGuitars - Thanks for replying. I think I'm going to lacquer and get a smooth finish. Should I grain fill before I use my dye or after? What would you do?
After scanning the comments alot of up and coming potential luthiers Take a look at the Guild of American Luthiers...a serious wealth of information...
maple is definitely porous, as anyone with a blue, green or purple flamed maple guitar can attest to. It has a closed grain pattern though, so it doesn't need filling, unlike open grained wood like mahogany.
+BigDGuitars Do you fill the grain of all your guitars first before dying them or do you grain fill after or does it depend on the type of wood? I have a Strat copy in bare Ash, is grain filling my next step after sanding the wood body? There is no veneer on it, it's all Ash. I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks very much.
Do you want a smooth coat are you going to lacquer? If you use lacquer and want a smooth surface then use filler. If you don't care and are using an oil then just go with no filler
Do you need to re-fill mahogany if you've sanded down from an original finish? I mean would the ORIGINAL finish not have been filled? Cheers for the awesome vids btw ;-)
I actually just sanded down far enough to leave a sealer coat on it then did a paint job on the whole thing followed by clear coats. I'm going to be doing a stain and oil job on an old Pacifica next couple of weeks though - I'll sand right down to the wood (alder this time) and see what the grain is like ;-)
I am pretty sure you can still buy e-book with all details you need on woodprix.
You are truly a master of stain and dyes.
Your videos are not only informative, they are really relaxing to watch too.
That's crazy how green it turned, then back to the right color when applied to the wood. Weird.
That gave me an idea of using colored filler and the after sanding to use the leather dyes application the same as each color filler was applied. Like in a dragons breath red, yellow , brown filler . Then work on the dye again to do the dragon breath and fade it all in
Very straightforward…now do I need to fill the maple cap?
no. maple is a closed grain wood
Hey ! You have a new sub here from Quebec !
Ohh I wish you would've included a picture of the final product at the end so we could see that mirror finish!
Did you wash coat first, or is the filler going on bare wood?
should i do wood filler before I stain the top (mahogany top) or stain and then fill?
If my stain is a oil-based stain do I necessarily need an oil-based finish top coat or is there a reason to or not to use a water-based finish? I plan on having a, I would say satin finish in a color that looked a lot like I guess the one you made at least of the filler was first being applied, that nice deep brown. So I like that color but a little more on the satin and/or Matt looking finish. Any suggestions? Just really mess with my guitars back in the day and painted and did a pretty good job I'd say so myself, but never applied would green filler and there was a couple of discrepancies in that sense on my lovely guitar. Thanks for your knowledge and sharing that with me along with you all RUclips contenters because it's been a lot of time on the internet. I'm just rambling now but anyway what's the what's to say on that oil base or other base finish, look for the information Thanks a lot and keep up the great videos because not everybody can and I feel like you have some thanks have a great one Happy New Year everybody goodbye
Great lesson and show, thank you.
Thanks for this video. I’ve got a few questions I’d love to understand if you have time. If you are doing a natural finish do you always tint your wood filler? Can you use stains over woofer filler? And can your use that razor blade clean up method on bare wood if you are taping off to do multiple stain patterns? If not, any advice on cleaning up stain mistakes from wood? Thanks!
Since you added dye to the filler, did that dye also color the wood? You sanded the back of the body, but it doesn’t seem like it is as light as the cavity for the electronics.
there was dark brown added.
After the grain has been filled and sanded.. can coats of danish oil be applied..? will the danish oil go into the wood...? OR should I just seal the grain using the danish oil and wet sanding..? I want to seal and finish a mahogany guitar.
you don't need to grainfill if you use an oil. the oils seep in and you really don't need the filler unless you want a mirror finish.
Thankyu for your video.. About the filler.. Do you mean wood filler or sanding filler? And how to apply what is we need both, so we applied wood filler and second we applied sanding filler.. Please your reply. Thanks
He means what he said, Grain filler. And theres no such thing as sanding filler. You're likely thinking of sanding sealer.
what does this paste consist of?
Always educational. Thanks for posting.
Is it ok to spray lacquer finishes over water based grain fillers?
Hello! I'm from Brazil and have a question. How did you make the curved trim from the backside of body? Thanks and congratulations.
6:20 how do you know when the filler is "just in the poors" ?
im a novice to me i would have thought you completely sanded of all of the filler there
you move the filler in the grain and let it dry and then sand off. Practice of some scrap to see how it goes.
*****
thank you.
i came across a bigger problem,
while sanding mahogany back,
theres a ton of sand dust all over the guitar, in every scratch and all the pores.
guess il buy some compressed air spray cans cause right now its a mess
@@dr.banana2828 small air compressor. Then move to a clean paint room and use a tack cloth to clean remaining dust. Dont worry if you get little specs in the paint and clear, You'll be wet sanding almost every layer you apply if you want a glass smooth surface.
I know that thos comment was from two years ago, but it will help someone else eventually
@@mythicguitarcompany4826 What exactly does wet staining each layer do as opposed to just wet sanding and then buffing at the end?
Can you use grain filler on an already finished neck with noticeable pores?
Not usually. The stuff won’t stick
Hello I have. Question. Have you try Waterlox on wood thread side instead of oil is a sealer
Is the water opening the grain while you put the filler in? I work in hardwood floor and i know we put a very thin coat of regular water down to open the wood grain and get it to accept the stain more evenly. Thanks for the info!
I shot sanding sealer on my mahogany first and now I need to fill the pores, how to proceed from here?
Look up my video on aqua fill.
Did you only use 400 grit on the grain filler?
320 then 400
@@bigdguitars Awesome, thanks!
Very nice! Great info, thanks!
Hey Derek, was the wood bare? Does it work to do this over a coat of shellac?
That color was weird. Glad to see you testing it before putting it on. *shiver*
I've been enjoying your vids and learning a lot. I'm in process of my first kit build (LP semi hollow). It has maple veneer too and basswood body. Originally I was planning to use mahogany stain on the basswood, but after a bit of research, understand that basswood don't take stain too well? What do you recommend for my basswood? I'm going to dye the top with some keda.......not sure which yet as I have both the powder and the liquid. 😂 I've sanded to 220 before doing anything, is that good enough. My next grit down is 400. Thanks for your help and enjoying learning from you.
Doing some research for my Lp staining the maple & want to fill the Mahogany & tru oil it all. Could I tru oil over the filler no issues?
Yea
@@bigdguitars Awesome thanks as was look into nitro but idea of tru oil & the finish of it
I was wondering what your thoughts were on using resin to fill the pores VS. grain fill.
+Brian S you can if the epoxy is really thinned out but thats messy sometimes.
Zpoxy works great for pore filling, but it's an even slower process than using a paste.
Hey BigDGuitars....Why do you color the filler to a dark brown, when it looks pretty much like the bare mahogany when you are done? Does the color of the filler you use affect the end look much at all? Great videos! Subbed & Thumbed!
Is wood filler always needed? I do primer, paint, finish, polish. Am I making a mistake not using wood filler?
Use the filler. Your finish will be much smoother and look better. If you are doing sunburst or any burst remember to clear coat in between coats to give the see through effect.
Filler is not required but as stated, the more layers of clear you apply, the bigger the pores look. Every layer of paint or clear amplifies the size of the pores.
You can still achieve a glass finish, if you wet sand almost every layer and keep applying new layers. After about 60 layers of nitro clear, it will be glass smooth. That is a lot of wet sanding with 1200 grit. Been there... done that.... took me 80 labor hours to do a les paul. now I fill almost everything I do.
Do you grain fill before or after you stain the guitar?
+Rick Newmyer You can see he added dye to his filler. In general, you can stain before or after, they give different looks to the grain.
Not much fun but absolutely necessary. It's also 1 of the reasons I like maple necks. Great tutorial !!!!!
Don't they need grain feeler too ?
@@luizmagalhaesbr generally Hard Maple only needs a sealer before lacquer, or only oil applied in several Coates, use #0000 steel wool to smooth out before applying the next coat of oil. Maple is a closed grain wood, mahogany is an open grain wood so you have to grain fill first or your finish will sage into the open grain & give a rough finish. Hope this answers your question. 🤞❤️✌🏻🇺🇦🇺🇸
I wish somebody would do a video on grain filling ash for a sunburst
+BigDGuitars Could I just stain the Ash body (I have water-based dye), sand it back and stain again like in your fantastic videos, and then use sanding sealer? Is sanding sealer a substitute for grain filler? I want to use an oil finish to bring it to a gloss finish. Can I use an oil over sanding sealer?
Sanding sealer is not a filler.
You should test on a scrap piece. For what you are trying to do.
+BigDGuitars - Thanks for replying. I think I'm going to lacquer and get a smooth finish. Should I grain fill before I use my dye or after? What would you do?
+BooleanUniverse im guessing you do it before
After scanning the comments alot of up and coming potential luthiers
Take a look at the Guild of American Luthiers...a serious wealth of information...
Why not on the top?
Maple is not a porous wood
maple is definitely porous, as anyone with a blue, green or purple flamed maple guitar can attest to.
It has a closed grain pattern though, so it doesn't need filling, unlike open grained wood like mahogany.
Forgo the color mixing. Apply filler -> Sand 240g -> Sanding Sealer -> Blotch Seal - > Power spray Stain
+BigDGuitars Do you fill the grain of all your guitars first before dying them or do you grain fill after or does it depend on the type of wood? I have a Strat copy in bare Ash, is grain filling my next step after sanding the wood body? There is no veneer on it, it's all Ash. I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks very much.
Do you want a smooth coat are you going to lacquer? If you use lacquer and want a smooth surface then use filler. If you don't care and are using an oil then just go with no filler
can you stain/dye over a grain filler
Matt Terrell yup
Thick milk?
Cream or cheese?
Do you need to re-fill mahogany if you've sanded down from an original finish? I mean would the ORIGINAL finish not have been filled? Cheers for the awesome vids btw ;-)
Hey what was your result? I'm doing the same thing as you (took of original finish to do another one) did you grain fill or just skip to the stain?
I actually just sanded down far enough to leave a sealer coat on it then did a paint job on the whole thing followed by clear coats. I'm going to be doing a stain and oil job on an old Pacifica next couple of weeks though - I'll sand right down to the wood (alder this time) and see what the grain is like ;-)
2 in 1 filler and stain mahogany👍
this dude sounds like tom green
Can you stain afterwords. Then use a tru oil finish?