Finishing African Mahogany (Secret Recipe!)
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2023
- ⚙️ EPISODE #194: I have finished a lot of Genuine Mahogany in my life, and learned how from my mentor, “Pug”, a master craftsman who finished a lot more of it himself. But the species most common today, “African Mahogany,” isn’t genuine, and it takes a special approach to make it look like genuine…the old recipe I learned from Pug. In this episode I show you how he did it, scary ingredients and all!
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LIVE EVENTS are filmed in the shop of Tom McLaughlin, host of TV's Classic Woodworking and Shop Night Live. Tom loves to pass on the craft of woodworking by creating projects to present in live video form backed by his over 30-years of experience making fine custom furniture.
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I was buying some wood from a wholesaler and he handed me a “specials” sheet. A sling load of African Mahogany was listed as $0.55. Knowing the price was wrong I asked to see the wood. It was beautiful. A little 4/4, a lot of 6/4, and some 8/4. I asked about the price. I was told, “It’s on the sheet… fifty five cents.” I told them I would take it all. The stuff is just beautiful.
Thanks for the video. I am trying now with African Mahogany veneer and on a test plank of the same. The plank is coming out much more medium brown. The only difference is I’m using the burnt Umber from General finishes to water-based glaze effect.
Lumber can vary quite a bit within species so could simply be a lighter quality Mahogany. In that case I will often reapply to the lighter areas so they go a bit darker to more closely match. Then you can put transtint toners in the shellac to help blend further during the sealer and top coat stages 👍
That is a great secret for african mahogany finish. I fortunately salvaged a bit of old red mahogany from a bank interior upgrade. (Their loss) I Ripped some of it for edging on my work bench. I was looking up best finish for such a tight grained wood. Shellac is still the winner for indoor finish for sure. I like your collection of planes as well.
Hey Tom, sorry I missed the live but what a great demo! I was amazed at how that really was so close to the look of the Honduran Mahogany. Thanks and enjoying the courses. Cheers.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it 👍😎
As always, thanks for the great video and all your wisdom and knowledge!
Thank you! 👍😎
Very interesting. Thanks rr Normandy, Fra.
That looks amazing, thank you
Great technique!.. I've found after raising the grain rubbing with brown craft paper (shopping bag or packing) works well to nock off the raised fibers without sanding off the fibers to to the point of needing to sand again after wetting with the next step.
Nice, I’ll have to try that when I run low on the fine sandpaper 👍😎
that information is YOOOJ for a novice like me. thank you!!
Hey Tom, have you ever used Ferric Nitrate? ‘Safer”It works great with Tiger Maple. I’ve tested it on other woods with some success. After applying it and drying. It’s an ugly green, hit it with a heat gun and it turns to,a fabulous reddish color. It’s amazing on Red Quartersawn oak also. I’m curious what it would do with your Mahagony. I missed your live show last night. Love your shows, thanks
Thanks for that tip Kevin. I haven’t tried Ferric Nitrate, sounds interesting, I’ll check it out! And thanks for watching! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking RUclips it for use on wood
So you're putting the glaze over the top of the shellac? Is it a dewaxed shellac? I always hear ppl say you can't put any finish on top of a waxed shellac.
Thanks
I did a finishing class years ago with Mitch Kohanek and we darkened cherry with "Drano" crystals and water. It looks like the main ingredient in that is Sodium Hydroxide. Also, poisonous but works fantastic. Instant age LOL! Great video can't wait to try this out.
Wow that’s a new one on me, I’ll have to give that a try, thanks! 👍😎
its just "lye" or caustic soda, we usually do this before bleaching to juice out all the pigments, but it does darken almost all woods instantly
@@cakeisalie fascinating. how much and how to apply and how long? if you feel like giving some detail, it certainly would be greatly appreciated.
What would african mahogany look like after using just the Mohawk Burt Umber stain and Amber Shellac. Thanks
I want to know this as well. After looking at the safety datasheet for potassium dichromate, I think maybe I will not use it.
Hi Tom, thanks as always. Would you use this on Sapele as well, or do you know if that tends to be more agreeable in not needing a chemical reaction stain? Asking because I've never used Sapele before, and scored many board feet of great ribboned boards at a terrific price- don't want to mess it up when it comes to finishing. Thanks again.
It does work on Sapele as well. But be sure to do a test first. 👍😎
After reading up on safety for Potassium Dichromate, I am unconvinced you were very safe with this video. No fume hood? No glove on left hand? No respirator? Bro are you sure this you were being safe?
Yes, it is the dust that is mainly the issue, as I tried to clearly express in the video, so be careful with that. Of course, don’t just take my word for it, if you are using it, follow all packaging instructions. And like I also said, there are other ways to stain the wood. With this video topic, I was trying to share a tried and true traditional “chemical reaction” stain which I hope was informative and helpful to you in some way. Thanks for watching! 👍
Amazing! Thanks so much. I was gifted about 40 BF of Honduran, and I have a few questions:
1. How many coats of shellac do you put on for the final coat (i.e. after the burnt umber dries)? And do you stick with the amber shellac for the final coat(s) or clear? I’m curious as to whether multiple coats of the amber/orange shellac would sort of orange out the color.
2. Does this process effectively fill the grain? I’ve done the technique where you lightly sand multiple layers of Tung oil to pack the grain, but does the shellac you’re adding fill the grain instead, for example, by sanding after the first coat and before adding the glazing stain?
3. Ever try this on andiroba AKA “royal mahogany”?
Thanks!
Quick question, I am planning on covering all my office walls with oak panels and wainscoting in dark stain finish. Do I need to follow on this process as you covered here?
Excellent. But one question. At what stage do we have to do the grain filling. I have built a house with all Mahogany doors. Just want to understand the best way to polish the same
Excellent video thank you. I’m working on a decent sized African Mahogany project right now and really want to try this. Struggling to find the pound of Potassium Dichromate on Amazon you mentioned.
I watched your video twice, took notes, ordered items. Well today I have seen the end result and it's spectacular! I have no regrets about choosing African mahogany because it looks beautiful. Thank you!
@@AmericanDrinker Did you use zissner amber or use flakes? I'm stuck on the waxxed vs dewaxxed dilemma.
@@tjnappstoreapps276 I used Zissner brand. This was my first time using shellac so I did not want to mess around with flakes. I had to remelt a few times using mineral spirits and sanding but the coating is clear and flat. It seems to me that the can is more expensive than making your own melted shellac, but I am not sure if the quality will be much more different.
I was always told Sepele is the SAME as African mohagany. Yet you specifically said it wasn’t sepele. Do you know the exact type of wood that you used in this video. Great video. Thank you.
Thank you. I have never heard that Sapele is the same as African, although I may have missed it somehow. I know the many times I have been at hardwood dealers, their inventory always clearly separates Sapele from the African Mahogany…meaning the lumber dealers themselves treat them as different species. I agree there are similarities, but Sapele has always seemed a bit harder and almost always ribbon striped, whereas the African varies. But you’ve got me curious since I’ve never heard that, I will check it out further. Thanks again! 👍😎
I bought a jar of potassium dichromate from a photo supply store, although that was about 40 years ago. The brand is Kodak.
Kodak, bringing back memories 😎
Hello, would this wood finish recipe work on ribbon stripe Sapele?
Not sure exactly. It’s been quite a few years since I’ve used Sepele at all, and I think I tried it then, but can’t remember. I suspect it would react to some degree, but you will have to give it a test if you really want to know for sure 👍
I’m not sure exactly. It’s been quite a few years since I’ve even used Sapele, and I can’t remember if I tried it then. It’s certainly not the same species, but given the similarities, I suspect there would be some reaction and darkening effect of the potassium dichromate. Only way to know for sure is to give it a try yourself. Sorry, can’t be of more help, thanks for watching! 👍😎
Would this also work on a planed surface?
Yes, no difference. 👍
Just saw a RUclips video showing them using potassium dichromate to darken cherry and walnut.
Thanks, I’ll have to check that out, didn’t know Walnut would darken with it…news to me. 👍
😮
Would you use this on kitchen shelves? Given the toxic nature of it?
8:34 you made us wait before you told us what it was. Unbelievable.
Believe it, good things are worth waiting for. Eight minutes, really? It took me many years, and relocating 700 miles south, to have a great man tell me what that was. When we receive things of value too easily we don’t fully appreciate them. 👍
Nice short memory joke lol
Thanks! 😎
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