Question: At 24:45, while the RTA is on, you say that the output signal "absolutely the perfect example of the best signal" when it clearly has a mild base boost at lower levels and as the level is increased, the bass boost decreases. Why not make a comment to have the volume knob set high to get the flatter signal, rather than ignore it completely when it's obvious on the RTA and everybody sees it? Also, is there any difference in signal processing between the KEY180.4 and the newer KEY200.4? But seriously, a really good video that explains a lot. I appreciate you putting this out there. Thanks.
@@aod_fan have the key, and i love it, its fantastic in bi amp mode, powering tweeters and mids in the front doors, head unit powers 6x9 in rear. its a great little amp, impressive for its size
In bi-amp mode, what chrossover frequency does the DSP try to use? How do you tune the gain before running the auto tuning? How do you know the volume is loud enough for the white noise track autontuning?
Peter, Tech Support would know the XO info you are asking for. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST or you can email them at techsupport@kicker.com. To watch someone install it (including gain and volume info) the best thing to do is watch this video. The folks in Tech can guide you through it as well: ruclips.net/video/l8J8q3ZhMvU/видео.html
So frustrated right now, I finished the bi amp key setup, all fine, happy tone, the music was playing nicely, moved to gain matching and fried both tweeters with the 50hz test tone, no limiter red light was shown or anything. I'm still trying to understand why the amp was sending such low frequencies to the tweeter. What could have happened, fader was OFF, Bi amp on, kicker EQ off, compression OFF, using just front channels, woofers connected to hear outputs, tweeter to front outputs. Didn't the Key setup separate the frequencies properly? why the tweeter got burned while woofer was not even close to limit and red light didn't come up?
Can you use the kicker key 200.4 as a pre amp dsp, meaning add another amp after the kicker key to gain more power while retaining the kicker keys dsp functions?
I just installed the same amp in my '98 Trans Am with the monsoon system I also bought the Kicker component system for the front lower door's and I didn't wire it BI amp I'm going through the crossover, I auto tuned it and got the happy tone and everything works and sounds good. My question is am I loosing performance going through the crossover? One thing to note is my factory tweeters were not powered separately they were powered off the midrange with a little inline factory crossover.
planning to use this on a 2019 Honda Accord Hybrid with the "10 speaker 450 watt premium sound system." planning to just use the aftermarket components in the front and coaxials in the rear. would it be best to biamp my aftermarket speakers? I'll be using infinity reference components with 90 rms watts in the front and a 50 watts rms infinity reference 2 way co axial in the rear. would i still need to use an LCi7 with the Kickey Key to make a better sound stage? planning to have it installed by Best Buy.
Make a video for Harley Davidson touring style installation. All I see is car installations but I hear this amp works great for the motorcycle with an aftermarket stereo running two speaker’s up front and two in the saddle bags after it’s installed how do you tune it like the car ? With the microphone?or guide me where to look thank you
I'm using a Kenwood Excelon KDCX500 head unit, was trying to 'zero' everything out before testing but there's a x-crossover setting that I'm stuck on. I set the high pass to 'through' for front speakers which I assume is correct but the tweeters have no 'through' option. Frequencies are 1KHZ/ 1.6KHZ/ 2.5KHZ/ 4KHZ/ 5KHZ/ 6.3KHZ/ 8KHZ/ 10KHZ/ 12.5KHZ. Any idea what I should put it on or does it even matter (i.e. can be adjusted to preference after tuning the amp)? I'm running Audiofrog g60s with the inline crossovers cut out active in bi amp mode.
Is it ok to connect to your head unit using Apple Carplay when setting up the DSP, or should I stick to aux? I don't think my boss head unit has a different input besides bluetooth
haha you're not wrong! But anytime ANY processor "throttles back" the audio, it's using a compressor/limiter. Sometimes people can hear this in the audio. That said, I've purposely drove the KEY200.4 well into this limiter and it does it's work quite eloquently. I'm betting 9 out of 10 people wouldn't hear a dang thing. So, again, you're not wrong!
What happens if you want to set up 2 of these in a car and both set up in bi-amp mode. With a factory head unit? How does the microphone set that up properly since the amps don't talk to each other? Or is it better to run one of these amps to two sets of components with their own crossovers?
I’m new to this to. It looks like they do. So long as you set your fade to center. One amp is the master and the other is the slave. These really look like a great solution for oem head units with very little power draw. To many installers on RUclips praising it. Larry
I think Kicker has a write up on how to just make a button, if that's all you're trying to do. EDIT: Yep. kicker.com/app/misc/support/tech/tech_papers/docs/KEY%20Amplifier%20a-b%20switch.pdf
Great job of selling it, Kicker. A big difference is a software tweak that fixed the keypass turning off on stop/start cars due to a voltage dip. Other tweaks improved the tonality and soundstaging over the KEY180.4. You'll hear a difference between the 200.4 and 180.4, not a huge improvement but it's there.
I am a little Confused… Does the kicker have built in cross overs in the regular set up? Or Just Bi-Amp 2022 bronco base 6 speakers Front channel: 6.5 Mids door 4” dash Rear 4” pods I bought 2 2.8 hertz bass blockers for the dash. Do Instill need them?? Thanks Rick
Yes, the KEY200.4 has crossovers. Since it is a 4 channel amp and you have 6 channels you will have to come up with some options. Tech Support can help with that. Call them at 405-624-8510 or email support@kicker.com. They are open weekdays from 8-5c.
I still have factory radio and speakers, somehow the sound staging is not really in the front dash, i checked every wire and it’s good. Could it be be ause of my factory speakers? Plus i have a civic with tweeters on the pillars, but i had it connected as non bi-amp mode. Those tweeters are series to front speakers. I ordered a component in front and ang full range at back. Can i still use the crossovers that came with it and line it as series? Any help is appreciated.
Id call Tech support, but it sounds like you may have inverted the phase of the speakers (sight unseen of course). Call them at 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST.
I am going to add this to my 2023 Toyota Sienna LE (base trim), which comes with basic radio (no factory amps) and only comes with four door speakers. I want to ask, once I have done the Kicker key integration, and in the future, can I replace the door speakers with a two way or three way speakers? Do I need to need to repeat the Kicker's DSP learning process again (using the mic) ? Or should I replace the speakers first before adding the Kicker Key?
The short answer is yes and yes. The amplifier will work with a 4 ohm load, and delivers 50 watts per channel. You should go through the setup process again if any time you change out the speakers it was originally connect to, so the KEY software can optimize the settings.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Thanks. Now, all I have to do is wait for it to be in stock again. All stores and dealers has been out of stock for months. I might as well replace my cheap stock speakers and run cables including the T-harness, so it's "plug n play" once the Kicker key becomes available. THANKS
You described White noise, not Pink noise. You said "Equal amplitude at every frequency throughout the range of human hearing range from 20 hz to 20K hz." That's white noise. Pink noise is equal power throughout each OCTAVE. Big difference.
I am confused. Bullet Proofing the install by Limiting Distortion requires the Compression dip switch to be On? If this is the case why was it left off? What happens if you turn the Hi-Pass Filter off?
Using (or not using) a limiter is a function of speaker power and the user. Factory speakers can be used with this amplifier, but are rarely designed to take this amount of power, hence the limiter is a logical precaution. If an aftermarket speaker is being used by someone who knows what distortion sounds like, it may not be necessary. However, if the user has no idea what distortion sounds like and cranks the volume to the point of clipping all the time then yes - use the limiter. The installer should know the tendencies of that user before making that decision. The Hi Pass filter is a little different, controlling the amount of bass a speaker "sees" by ensuring a speaker doesn't play frequencies it wasn't meant to. Ask a 6x9" to play 80 Hz, and for the most part it does so. Ask a 3.5" or a tweeter to do that and you'll likely damage the speaker over time. The high pass filter exists to help ensure that doesn't happen. However, if you have a passive crossover inline or an electronic crossover in your head unit, then that crossover (and not the filter) can do the work instead.
You don't need a door speaker to play 60 or 80 if you have a Subwoofer. If you don't have a Subwoofer than you will want the door speakers crossed over at 80 with this this amp. I had a 125 x 4 Audio Control DSP/Amp in my 2015 Mazda 3 without the premium audio and it got super loud. Almost any car can handle 50 to 75 RMS no problem. I'd like to see a Kicker Key 300.4 with 4 Crossover points 60/80/100/120 @@KICKER-AUDIO
Will this work with my factory stereo. It has factory Rockford fosgate 8 speaker system. There is three 3 inch in the dash it has 6x9s in the front doors 6.5s in the back doors and an 8in sub under the drivers seat all powered by factory amp.
The KEY 200.4 is meant to power four mid and high range speakers. The KEY500.1 is meant for bass. It may be possible to power the mids and highs with a single channel. To verify that, contact Tech Support. We are open weekdays from 8-5 central time at 405-624-8510. You can also email us at support@kicker.com.
Will this DSP/Amp still sound good if you just play around with the Dips/Settings and not use the auto tune? I just had this installed the other day and it sounds pretty good but for some reason the mid bass I had from my oem head unit is gone. The sound quality was good with my OEM system but it had to be turned up to 50/75 for it to be sort of loud.
You can try it. The DSP settings are defeatable (check the manual to learn how) so you can decide if you like the tune, or simply want to use the amp and the available settings on the amp.
Hello interested in this but using aftermarket stereo. Can i directly wire the other side to the speakers and not use a harness if using rcas from my after market head unit.
Hey I have a 2010 honda civic with me . I have installed a chinese aftermarket head unit which I ordered from Ali express. According to the manual it already comes with a built in DSP. In this case, will the Kicker DSP enhance the sound even more and will it muddle the sound stage. Looking forward to hearing from you.
If the general rule of thumb for most applications is to set the Hi-Pass Filter to 80Hz then why isn't there a 100Hz option to protect the door speakers while using an after market Subwoofer? I think 100Hz is the sweet spot and 120Hz is a bit high for most applications. On the other hand if they had 60, 90, or 120Hz options then 90Hz would be ideal.
Because the KEY 200.4 is a mid/high amp, the crossover points are meant to blend with a midrange's roll off point, which varies with the speaker and the speaker size. The subwoofer would usually have its own separate crossover assigned to it.
This is where we get a little subjective. Some passive crossovers have settings on them (assuming they are aftermarket), especially for the tweeters, to make them more or less "bright". If that alone doesn't do enough for you, its time to either get an inline EQ or go with a DSP to get as much acoustic control as possible.
We wouldn't want to speak for JVC and their gear, but there are good crossover tutorials out there. Here is one from CAF: ruclips.net/video/BDKLYsGyBVU/видео.html And several from Dean & Fernando of 5 Star: ruclips.net/user/FiveStarCarStereoIncClearwatersearch?query=crossover
Hi, I have two questions that I would really appreciate if you could help. I'm planning to do a similar setup with a few modifications. I have a Toyota GR86 that has 6 speakers in front, tweeter and mid in dash and a woofer in the door. I'm planning to install a polk db6502 2-way component speaker to replace the woofer and twetter and power it with a kicker key 200.4. The difference is that I am planning to run the bi amp mode, but still use the passive crossover for the tweeter/mid-range instead of the tweeter/woofer and add some HPF in the amp, would that work? the second question is regarding the subwoofer, I am installing a 10in JL and I will be powering it with another kicker key 500.1 and I would like to know how can I feed the signal to it, could you help me with that? thanks in advance.
With a little research, it seems the Polks have a 100 watt RMS. They KEY delivers 50 watts per channel at 4 ohms. We recommend not using the 3.5", as the crossover is designed to deliver a frequency response that is too low for the performance of the mid you intend on using. Instead, biamp the Polk woofer/tweeter and do not use the passive crossover. The KEY's DSP will optimise the response of those speakers quite well during the setup process. Feeding signal to the KEY 500.1 involves a few steps, which should be performed prior to installing the KEY 200.4. Step 1 is to determine which set of speaker wires delivers sufficient bass signal. If you have a factory sub, use those wires. If not, you need an to determine the frequency response of each set of wires. Here is how to do that: ruclips.net/video/fCPI0cc0Tyk/видео.htmlsi=xisrslEMVnxxAVbu If the KEY500 has to share speaker wires with the KEY200.4, be sure to tap into that wire before it goes into the level inputs of the KEY200.4, as that amp will remove sub bass from the output signal (we don't want the door speakers playing too much bass). If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to email us at support@kicker.com, or call us at 405-624-8510. We are open weekdays from 8-5 cst.
Thanks for the detailed response. I have a follow up question. I’m pretty sure the mid already has a passive crossover on it, so it shouldn’t be a problem to hook it to the polk crossover. The question is, if I go with this setup l, should I run the kick with bi amp or normal 4ch mode. Second thing is if it will give better quality with or without the mid.
@@krankertigaz The mid likely has a capacitor to prevent the tweeter from playing too low, but equally likely is that is has no choke (aka inductor) on it to prevent low frequencies from coming through. The Polk's passive crossover will pass lower frequencies appropriate to their 6.5", which is undesirable.
What does the curve look like after key auto setup? I have a helix processor and I’m tired of messing with it. How will the key compare to the helix? Thanks ! I also have the key 180.4
Do you guys recommend a DC blocking capacitor when doing biamping to protect the Tweeter? I want to use straight connected Scan Speaker discovery car tweeters
The KEY amplifier applies active crossovers automatically when the Bi-Amp switch is flipped so, technically, no capacitor is needed. That said, it's never a bad idea to wire a cap inline with your tweeters just in case. Use a cap value that equates to a frequency just under what the KEY sets, so it doesn't affect your final outcome. But just in case full range gets sent down those wires, the cap will be there as insurance.
Should I use pink noise turned up to say 30 on the volume then turn up the gains until they light up then back off a little until the lights stay off ?
@@ryanbisi3830 just don't turn them all the way up. I can go to about 40 on my head unit. You want the music to be loud and distortion free without the gain lights coming on. I never got an official answer.
Most installers tested with the volume set at +above normal conversation levels. I tested around 70db pink noise ... that is around vacuum cleaner db level
Option 1) Hook up the front channels only to the AMP 1 inputs. Flip the FADER dipswitch on the amp to tell it that there are no rear channels. Then flip the BI-AMP dipswitch. Option 2) Hook up the front channels to the AMP 1 inputs and rear to the AMP 2 inputs. DON'T flip the FADER dipswitch. Then flip the BI-AMP dipswitch. This will allow you to use the radio fader to mix the volume between the mids and tweeters.
Update! I learned the biamp dipswitch negates the Amp 2 and fader dipswitches. So, only option 1. This makes sense, since biamping by nature negates the need for a fader.
Great content! I just bought a 13" Fosgate T2 paired with a Kicker KXA.2400. I have 0 clue on how to tune the amp. Could you give me basic ranges for each dial so that I can make my sub sound better. I listen to rap primarily and like low bass. Thank you!
Issue here: Ran autosetup, completes successfully, i press the mic button once, and i pull the cord out. Sounds amazing and i love the DSP....But Shouldn't the DSP, time correction, and everything be active when i turn my car back on? I don't want to have leave the mic connected all the time just to activate the DSP each time i turn my car on. I feel like my unit is defective, or maybe i'm not doing it right
@@josel.mendez4592 if you bought a used one make sure to reset it. In my case it was new and actually didn’t have any issues. I just needed to adjust my equalizer since everyone’s hearing is different.
Hi , i have kicker amp says 200.4 on it and a 12" inch sub (which i think is blown ) so I wanna buy couple of 12"inch sub in one box , just to know will that amp work for two 12" inch sub ?
The factory audio system in a 2019 challenger needs to see the speakers on it's outputs. When you install the KEY inline, it can no longer see those speakers and it mutes the output. The KEY200.4 does have some resistors inside that can trick systems like this, mentioned at 29:12 . However, from experience I can tell you specifically the 2019 challenger needs larger resistors at a lower resistance. Kicker makes these as well. kicker.com/46KISLOAD4
If you have a subwoofer in the car or simply don't want full-range audio going to your mids/highs, then then you'll use the crossover, which is set manually.
Are you using the KEY amp as a preamp for your Smart Three? There will be a few steps involved. Get test tones here: www.kicker.com/test-tones. Grab a multimeter and probes to test the wires. With those steps ready, please reach out to our Tech Support department at 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST. Let them walk you through the process. While it is mainly a matter of simply adjusting the gain, the test tones, amp, and meter all play a role.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Yeah I just got off the phone yesterday with one of your techs. Was instructed in how to use the multi meter to make proper adjustments between key lock and amp and everything is all good thank you. Can’t wait to hook it all up to my factory radio and see how the bass sounds!
If the factory system you're integrating into monitors the resistance of the speakers, you'd need to push the "radio detect" button on the KEY200.4, which are the built-in resistors. Most cars won't need them though.
If you were an installer, it's safe to assume you've gone beyond the basics, so let's have you talk to our Techs. 405-624-8510 is the number. They are open weekdays 8-5 central time. You can also email them at support@kicker.com.
It's funny how the car audio world almost unintentionally excludes new comers. I get it, I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about, but I would've thought this would be a good place to learn. Disappointing.
Installing an amp for the first time is best done with someone that knows the ropes. There are countless other videos we've made to help answer install questions. This might help: ruclips.net/video/XB9yWt_cniE/видео.html
Thanks for these training videos. Great to be able to refer to them whenever in doubt or want to change up to Bi Amp mode
Best video I have seen this far. I learned a great deal off this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Question: At 24:45, while the RTA is on, you say that the output signal "absolutely the perfect example of the best signal" when it clearly has a mild base boost at lower levels and as the level is increased, the bass boost decreases. Why not make a comment to have the volume knob set high to get the flatter signal, rather than ignore it completely when it's obvious on the RTA and everybody sees it? Also, is there any difference in signal processing between the KEY180.4 and the newer KEY200.4? But seriously, a really good video that explains a lot. I appreciate you putting this out there. Thanks.
How do you set the gains after it is stashed away in the dash?
Yes my question was asked. I was only looking for a small 4 channel amp to install my component speakers. This is perfect, I'm getting it.
How did it go with your components?
@@aod_fan have the key, and i love it, its fantastic in bi amp mode, powering tweeters and mids in the front doors, head unit powers 6x9 in rear. its a great little amp, impressive for its size
Damn good Video !!!! This will Help a lot of Uncertain folks out there ... look forward to the Next videos
In bi-amp mode, what chrossover frequency does the DSP try to use?
How do you tune the gain before running the auto tuning?
How do you know the volume is loud enough for the white noise track autontuning?
Peter, Tech Support would know the XO info you are asking for. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST or you can email them at techsupport@kicker.com. To watch someone install it (including gain and volume info) the best thing to do is watch this video. The folks in Tech can guide you through it as well: ruclips.net/video/l8J8q3ZhMvU/видео.html
So frustrated right now, I finished the bi amp key setup, all fine, happy tone, the music was playing nicely, moved to gain matching and fried both tweeters with the 50hz test tone, no limiter red light was shown or anything. I'm still trying to understand why the amp was sending such low frequencies to the tweeter. What could have happened, fader was OFF, Bi amp on, kicker EQ off, compression OFF, using just front channels, woofers connected to hear outputs, tweeter to front outputs. Didn't the Key setup separate the frequencies properly? why the tweeter got burned while woofer was not even close to limit and red light didn't come up?
Try calling Tech Support at 405-624-8510 or email them at support@kicker.com. Open weekdays from 8-5cst. They are happy to help you with setup!
How do you make it as a pre amp? I want to try to integrate it to my 6channel rf amps.
Door Chime is ampfied after installation. I looked into chime setting and it's at the lowest setting. How do I correct that
How should the gain be adjusted?
Can you use the kicker key 200.4 as a pre amp dsp, meaning add another amp after the kicker key to gain more power while retaining the kicker keys dsp functions?
YES! I've done it! Just ensure the larger amplifier can accept high-level inputs and it works perfectly!
I just installed the same amp in my '98 Trans Am with the monsoon system I also bought the Kicker component system for the front lower door's and I didn't wire it BI amp I'm going through the crossover, I auto tuned it and got the happy tone and everything works and sounds good. My question is am I loosing performance going through the crossover? One thing to note is my factory tweeters were not powered separately they were powered off the midrange with a little inline factory crossover.
Nah. You'll be fine.
One question what is if any is thr key DSP vs using a using a dsp from the input source like a phone is it the same processing?
planning to use this on a 2019 Honda Accord Hybrid with the "10 speaker 450 watt premium sound system." planning to just use the aftermarket components in the front and coaxials in the rear. would it be best to biamp my aftermarket speakers? I'll be using infinity reference components with 90 rms watts in the front and a 50 watts rms infinity reference 2 way co axial in the rear. would i still need to use an LCi7 with the Kickey Key to make a better sound stage? planning to have it installed by Best Buy.
Can I use the signal from the factory amp as the kicker key inputs?
Yup.
Make a video for Harley Davidson touring style installation. All I see is car installations but I hear this amp works great for the motorcycle with an aftermarket stereo running two speaker’s up front and two in the saddle bags after it’s installed how do you tune it like the car ? With the microphone?or guide me where to look thank you
I'm using a Kenwood Excelon KDCX500 head unit, was trying to 'zero' everything out before testing but there's a x-crossover setting that I'm stuck on. I set the high pass to 'through' for front speakers which I assume is correct but the tweeters have no 'through' option. Frequencies are 1KHZ/ 1.6KHZ/ 2.5KHZ/ 4KHZ/ 5KHZ/ 6.3KHZ/ 8KHZ/ 10KHZ/ 12.5KHZ. Any idea what I should put it on or does it even matter (i.e. can be adjusted to preference after tuning the amp)? I'm running Audiofrog g60s with the inline crossovers cut out active in bi amp mode.
Is it ok to connect to your head unit using Apple Carplay when setting up the DSP, or should I stick to aux? I don't think my boss head unit has a different input besides bluetooth
If the amp automatically throttles back when it reaches it's limit then why even dial back the gains?
haha you're not wrong! But anytime ANY processor "throttles back" the audio, it's using a compressor/limiter. Sometimes people can hear this in the audio. That said, I've purposely drove the KEY200.4 well into this limiter and it does it's work quite eloquently. I'm betting 9 out of 10 people wouldn't hear a dang thing. So, again, you're not wrong!
What happens if you want to set up 2 of these in a car and both set up in bi-amp mode. With a factory head unit? How does the microphone set that up properly since the amps don't talk to each other? Or is it better to run one of these amps to two sets of components with their own crossovers?
I’m new to this to.
It looks like they do. So long as you set your fade to center. One amp is the master and the other is the slave.
These really look like a great solution for oem head units with very little power draw.
To many installers on RUclips praising it.
Larry
Weres the bridgeable key 200.4 with the 500's terminal inputs
what if i lost the dsp mic switch?? where can i get a new one??
Contact our Customer Service Department at 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 9-5 central time.
I think Kicker has a write up on how to just make a button, if that's all you're trying to do.
EDIT: Yep.
kicker.com/app/misc/support/tech/tech_papers/docs/KEY%20Amplifier%20a-b%20switch.pdf
main difference of 180.4 vs 200.4? besides the 20watts difference? its $50 difference thanks
Thats the main difference.
Great job of selling it, Kicker. A big difference is a software tweak that fixed the keypass turning off on stop/start cars due to a voltage dip. Other tweaks improved the tonality and soundstaging over the KEY180.4. You'll hear a difference between the 200.4 and 180.4, not a huge improvement but it's there.
I am a little Confused…
Does the kicker have built in cross overs in the regular set up? Or Just Bi-Amp
2022 bronco base 6 speakers
Front channel:
6.5 Mids door
4” dash
Rear 4” pods
I bought 2 2.8 hertz bass blockers for the dash. Do Instill need them??
Thanks Rick
Yes, the KEY200.4 has crossovers. Since it is a 4 channel amp and you have 6 channels you will have to come up with some options. Tech Support can help with that. Call them at 405-624-8510 or email support@kicker.com. They are open weekdays from 8-5c.
I still have factory radio and speakers, somehow the sound staging is not really in the front dash, i checked every wire and it’s good. Could it be be ause of my factory speakers? Plus i have a civic with tweeters on the pillars, but i had it connected as non bi-amp mode. Those tweeters are series to front speakers. I ordered a component in front and ang full range at back. Can i still use the crossovers that came with it and line it as series? Any help is appreciated.
My rear door speaker are very muffled after putting the KEY in. What did I do wrong? How can I fix that?
Id call Tech support, but it sounds like you may have inverted the phase of the speakers (sight unseen of course). Call them at 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST.
@@KICKER-AUDIO It sounds much better after I disable all of the EQ. EQ creates a field of mud to me
I am going to add this to my 2023 Toyota Sienna LE (base trim), which comes with basic radio (no factory amps) and only comes with four door speakers. I want to ask, once I have done the Kicker key integration, and in the future, can I replace the door speakers with a two way or three way speakers? Do I need to need to repeat the Kicker's DSP learning process again (using the mic) ? Or should I replace the speakers first before adding the Kicker Key?
The short answer is yes and yes. The amplifier will work with a 4 ohm load, and delivers 50 watts per channel. You should go through the setup process again if any time you change out the speakers it was originally connect to, so the KEY software can optimize the settings.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Thanks. Now, all I have to do is wait for it to be in stock again. All stores and dealers has been out of stock for months. I might as well replace my cheap stock speakers and run cables including the T-harness, so it's "plug n play" once the Kicker key becomes available.
THANKS
You described White noise, not Pink noise. You said "Equal amplitude at every frequency throughout the range of human hearing range from 20 hz to 20K hz." That's white noise. Pink noise is equal power throughout each OCTAVE. Big difference.
You knew what he meant...and I wouldn't call that a big difference. Pink noise versus a BBQ brisket sandwich is a big difference.
I am confused. Bullet Proofing the install by Limiting Distortion requires the Compression dip switch to be On?
If this is the case why was it left off?
What happens if you turn the Hi-Pass Filter off?
Using (or not using) a limiter is a function of speaker power and the user. Factory speakers can be used with this amplifier, but are rarely designed to take this amount of power, hence the limiter is a logical precaution. If an aftermarket speaker is being used by someone who knows what distortion sounds like, it may not be necessary. However, if the user has no idea what distortion sounds like and cranks the volume to the point of clipping all the time then yes - use the limiter. The installer should know the tendencies of that user before making that decision.
The Hi Pass filter is a little different, controlling the amount of bass a speaker "sees" by ensuring a speaker doesn't play frequencies it wasn't meant to. Ask a 6x9" to play 80 Hz, and for the most part it does so. Ask a 3.5" or a tweeter to do that and you'll likely damage the speaker over time. The high pass filter exists to help ensure that doesn't happen. However, if you have a passive crossover inline or an electronic crossover in your head unit, then that crossover (and not the filter) can do the work instead.
You don't need a door speaker to play 60 or 80 if you have a Subwoofer. If you don't have a Subwoofer than you will want the door speakers crossed over at 80 with this this amp.
I had a 125 x 4 Audio Control DSP/Amp in my 2015 Mazda 3 without the premium audio and it got super loud. Almost any car can handle 50 to 75 RMS no problem. I'd like to see a Kicker Key 300.4 with 4 Crossover points 60/80/100/120 @@KICKER-AUDIO
Will this work with my factory stereo. It has factory Rockford fosgate 8 speaker system. There is three 3 inch in the dash it has 6x9s in the front doors 6.5s in the back doors and an 8in sub under the drivers seat all powered by factory amp.
The KEY 200.4 is meant to power four mid and high range speakers. The KEY500.1 is meant for bass. It may be possible to power the mids and highs with a single channel. To verify that, contact Tech Support. We are open weekdays from 8-5 central time at 405-624-8510. You can also email us at support@kicker.com.
Will this DSP/Amp still sound good if you just play around with the Dips/Settings and not use the auto tune? I just had this installed the other day and it sounds pretty good but for some reason the mid bass I had from my oem head unit is gone. The sound quality was good with my OEM system but it had to be turned up to 50/75 for it to be sort of loud.
You can try it. The DSP settings are defeatable (check the manual to learn how) so you can decide if you like the tune, or simply want to use the amp and the available settings on the amp.
Hello interested in this but using aftermarket stereo. Can i directly wire the other side to the speakers and not use a harness if using rcas from my after market head unit.
The speaker wires can be used as inputs as long as they don't exceed the max input voltage.
And how do you set the two gains on the key amplifier?
We have a full installation video. Check this out: ruclips.net/video/l8J8q3ZhMvU/видео.htmlsi=z4-lyD6l0k3knG1E
only thing i need help with is.. my set the dip switches crossover. if its going to do it automatically during the tuning process?
The EQ will set automatically, as will time alignment. The dipswitches are set manually.
Hey I have a 2010 honda civic with me . I have installed a chinese aftermarket head unit which I ordered from Ali express. According to the manual it already comes with a built in DSP. In this case, will the Kicker DSP enhance the sound even more and will it muddle the sound stage. Looking forward to hearing from you.
It depends very much on the head unit's DSP, and what function it claims to do. Does it add time delay, EQ, crossover, or other acoustic effect?
If the general rule of thumb for most applications is to set the Hi-Pass Filter to 80Hz then why isn't there a 100Hz option to protect the door speakers while using an after market Subwoofer?
I think 100Hz is the sweet spot and 120Hz is a bit high for most applications.
On the other hand if they had 60, 90, or 120Hz options then 90Hz would be ideal.
Because the KEY 200.4 is a mid/high amp, the crossover points are meant to blend with a midrange's roll off point, which varies with the speaker and the speaker size. The subwoofer would usually have its own separate crossover assigned to it.
I would like to see a 90Hz or 100Hz option because 120Hz is too high.@@KICKER-AUDIO
i have component speakers with a crossover in my car already, how do i make this amp sound great without removing the existing crossovers?
This is where we get a little subjective. Some passive crossovers have settings on them (assuming they are aftermarket), especially for the tweeters, to make them more or less "bright". If that alone doesn't do enough for you, its time to either get an inline EQ or go with a DSP to get as much acoustic control as possible.
Hi, I'm trying to set up using a JVC with 3 way crossover - active front stage, do you have a tutorial for this function?
We wouldn't want to speak for JVC and their gear, but there are good crossover tutorials out there. Here is one from CAF: ruclips.net/video/BDKLYsGyBVU/видео.html
And several from Dean & Fernando of 5 Star: ruclips.net/user/FiveStarCarStereoIncClearwatersearch?query=crossover
Hi, I have two questions that I would really appreciate if you could help. I'm planning to do a similar setup with a few modifications. I have a Toyota GR86 that has 6 speakers in front, tweeter and mid in dash and a woofer in the door. I'm planning to install a polk db6502 2-way component speaker to replace the woofer and twetter and power it with a kicker key 200.4. The difference is that I am planning to run the bi amp mode, but still use the passive crossover for the tweeter/mid-range instead of the tweeter/woofer and add some HPF in the amp, would that work? the second question is regarding the subwoofer, I am installing a 10in JL and I will be powering it with another kicker key 500.1 and I would like to know how can I feed the signal to it, could you help me with that? thanks in advance.
With a little research, it seems the Polks have a 100 watt RMS. They KEY delivers 50 watts per channel at 4 ohms. We recommend not using the 3.5", as the crossover is designed to deliver a frequency response that is too low for the performance of the mid you intend on using. Instead, biamp the Polk woofer/tweeter and do not use the passive crossover. The KEY's DSP will optimise the response of those speakers quite well during the setup process.
Feeding signal to the KEY 500.1 involves a few steps, which should be performed prior to installing the KEY 200.4. Step 1 is to determine which set of speaker wires delivers sufficient bass signal. If you have a factory sub, use those wires. If not, you need an to determine the frequency response of each set of wires. Here is how to do that: ruclips.net/video/fCPI0cc0Tyk/видео.htmlsi=xisrslEMVnxxAVbu
If the KEY500 has to share speaker wires with the KEY200.4, be sure to tap into that wire before it goes into the level inputs of the KEY200.4, as that amp will remove sub bass from the output signal (we don't want the door speakers playing too much bass). If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to email us at support@kicker.com, or call us at 405-624-8510. We are open weekdays from 8-5 cst.
Thanks for the detailed response. I have a follow up question. I’m pretty sure the mid already has a passive crossover on it, so it shouldn’t be a problem to hook it to the polk crossover. The question is, if I go with this setup l, should I run the kick with bi amp or normal 4ch mode. Second thing is if it will give better quality with or without the mid.
@@krankertigaz The mid likely has a capacitor to prevent the tweeter from playing too low, but equally likely is that is has no choke (aka inductor) on it to prevent low frequencies from coming through. The Polk's passive crossover will pass lower frequencies appropriate to their 6.5", which is undesirable.
What does the curve look like after key auto setup? I have a helix processor and I’m tired of messing with it. How will the key compare to the helix? Thanks ! I also have the key 180.4
“Keys” not adjustable. Also no interface.
“One and done” tune.
For the price point. Can’t beat it!
Larry
Do you guys recommend a DC blocking capacitor when doing biamping to protect the Tweeter? I want to use straight connected Scan Speaker discovery car tweeters
The KEY amplifier applies active crossovers automatically when the Bi-Amp switch is flipped so, technically, no capacitor is needed. That said, it's never a bad idea to wire a cap inline with your tweeters just in case. Use a cap value that equates to a frequency just under what the KEY sets, so it doesn't affect your final outcome. But just in case full range gets sent down those wires, the cap will be there as insurance.
@@firebirdude2 Thanks for your input, I will put a cap in line to be sure :)
Hi, does this amp will work with a 2way morel tempo ultra ?
The Tempo Ultra line has a minimum RMS of 100 watts. The KEY amp is 50 watts.
Should I use pink noise turned up to say 30 on the volume then turn up the gains until they light up then back off a little until the lights stay off ?
Did you ever get an answer? I’m confused on how I should set the gains especially if it’s going to be tucked away behind the dash.
@@ryanbisi3830 just don't turn them all the way up. I can go to about 40 on my head unit. You want the music to be loud and distortion free without the gain lights coming on. I never got an official answer.
Most installers tested with the volume set at +above normal conversation levels.
I tested around 70db pink noise ... that is around vacuum cleaner db level
How would I wire the rca cables in bi amp mode? Would I need to use the rear channels from the head unit?
Option 1) Hook up the front channels only to the AMP 1 inputs. Flip the FADER dipswitch on the amp to tell it that there are no rear channels. Then flip the BI-AMP dipswitch.
Option 2) Hook up the front channels to the AMP 1 inputs and rear to the AMP 2 inputs. DON'T flip the FADER dipswitch. Then flip the BI-AMP dipswitch. This will allow you to use the radio fader to mix the volume between the mids and tweeters.
@@KICKER-AUDIO thank you!
Update! I learned the biamp dipswitch negates the Amp 2 and fader dipswitches. So, only option 1. This makes sense, since biamping by nature negates the need for a fader.
Great video. Shame the mic was clipping so badly, it hurt my ears a bit
Great content! I just bought a 13" Fosgate T2 paired with a Kicker KXA.2400. I have 0 clue on how to tune the amp. Could you give me basic ranges for each dial so that I can make my sub sound better. I listen to rap primarily and like low bass. Thank you!
We have setup videos for the KXA series. Check them out when you can.
How would they key respond with say infinity kappas with 2.5ohm impedance?
Used them multiple times, works great!
Can you use the amp and self tune it without the mike I want to put it on a motorcycle and of course you can't close the doors and there no headrest
Park inna garage and place the mic on the helmet n stay still should work
For this video only being 3 years old, it's odd that it was shot in PotatoVision.
Ummmm....what?
@@KICKER-AUDIOthe video quality is poor
Issue here: Ran autosetup, completes successfully, i press the mic button once, and i pull the cord out. Sounds amazing and i love the DSP....But
Shouldn't the DSP, time correction, and everything be active when i turn my car back on? I don't want to have leave the mic connected all the time just to activate the DSP each time i turn my car on.
I feel like my unit is defective, or maybe i'm not doing it right
I'd reach out to Tech Support. They can be reached at 405-624-8510, and are open weekdays from 8-5 cst.
Hello, did you ever find a response? I am having the same issue. As soon as I turn the car back on again it goes away.
@@josel.mendez4592 if you bought a used one make sure to reset it. In my case it was new and actually didn’t have any issues. I just needed to adjust my equalizer since everyone’s hearing is different.
What is It for ?
Hi , i have kicker amp says 200.4 on it and a 12" inch sub (which i think is blown ) so I wanna buy couple of 12"inch sub in one box , just to know will that amp work for two 12" inch sub ?
What is the exact model number of the amp?
KICKER , where is it written on amp ?
I work as a installer try it 2019 challenger no audio ouput any tips to ho make work
The factory audio system in a 2019 challenger needs to see the speakers on it's outputs. When you install the KEY inline, it can no longer see those speakers and it mutes the output. The KEY200.4 does have some resistors inside that can trick systems like this, mentioned at 29:12 . However, from experience I can tell you specifically the 2019 challenger needs larger resistors at a lower resistance. Kicker makes these as well. kicker.com/46KISLOAD4
@kicker Were is the video on how to make this homemade RTA? 23:20
ruclips.net/video/_TQn8vUe9yg/видео.html
@@KICKER-AUDIO Well, that's Gold!!! Thanks.
Wish there was more clarity, on setting crossover for amp 1 and two. I thought the amp did that automatically.
If you have a subwoofer in the car or simply don't want full-range audio going to your mids/highs, then then you'll use the crossover, which is set manually.
My amplifier can only take up to 4 V Is there a way to adjust the output voltage so I’m getting 4 V instead of 10?
What amplifier do you have?
@@KICKER-AUDIO Taramps smart three
Are you using the KEY amp as a preamp for your Smart Three? There will be a few steps involved. Get test tones here: www.kicker.com/test-tones. Grab a multimeter and probes to test the wires. With those steps ready, please reach out to our Tech Support department at 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST. Let them walk you through the process. While it is mainly a matter of simply adjusting the gain, the test tones, amp, and meter all play a role.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Yeah I just got off the phone yesterday with one of your techs. Was instructed in how to use the multi meter to make proper adjustments between key lock and amp and everything is all good thank you. Can’t wait to hook it all up to my factory radio and see how the bass sounds!
Awesome info. Btw doesn't it look like he's wearing eye liner or mascara?
Not yet
They say we need resistors?
If the factory system you're integrating into monitors the resistance of the speakers, you'd need to push the "radio detect" button on the KEY200.4, which are the built-in resistors. Most cars won't need them though.
Is it possible to connect
this amp to hyundai ioniq hybrid 2020 without the infinty system
The don't work on 2019 challenger wy. Don't give audio to spks
If you were an installer, it's safe to assume you've gone beyond the basics, so let's have you talk to our Techs. 405-624-8510 is the number. They are open weekdays 8-5 central time. You can also email them at support@kicker.com.
Ben Gleib from Idiot Test!
It's funny how the car audio world almost unintentionally excludes new comers. I get it, I have absolutely no idea what you're talking about, but I would've thought this would be a good place to learn. Disappointing.
Installing an amp for the first time is best done with someone that knows the ropes. There are countless other videos we've made to help answer install questions. This might help: ruclips.net/video/XB9yWt_cniE/видео.html
This is a video that is geared more towards advanced follow-on training. They do offer plenty of beginner videos as well.
Serial
Could i run a 3 way component set with the Kicker 47key200.4 either in bi amp or 4 channel mode?
You could biamp, running a passive crossover between the midrange and tweeter.