i am not a fan of added harnesses. Harnesses may be more condensed on the unit, but it adds another connection point in my wiring. plus my wires are ready to terminate into the conventional sockets. I dont want to have to twist and heat shrink my wires to your harness. Also I am wondering how you adjust the 40-band EQ ?? Some DSP Amps have an APP...
The EQ is automatically adjusted. There are certainly other DSP-enabled units that offer an app to control the sound, but they are far more expensive. This was meant to be a simple, affordable way to dramatically increase sound quality and imaging. As far as the harness, there are too many variables, providing harnesses for every make and model would force the price to increase (lots of R&D needed), so we chose not to do that.
I recently bought this amp. I previously have had JL slash, XD, RF oldschool gear and a host of various car audio gear over the last 20 years. I bought this because I am down grading in size and complexity. The days of huge subs, separate DSP's and huge amplifiers just gives me more anxieties about theft, collision, etc while being loud isn't a big deal for me any more so I went with the discreet, small and simple route this time. This amp fits anywhere in a compact car and it was nice to use smaller gauge wiring for a change. I have a Pioneer HU with built in DSP and this amp's auto tuning makes it sound better than my manual tweaking usually gets. Although we all have our own sound bias and I hope Kicker takes this into consideration next time by allowing some form of control over EQ, maybe via a phone app. But I found this auto EQ acceptable for people that listen to Orchestra music or something but it could use a little more "ooomph" in the mid bass for other types so I tweaked it further use my HU's built in EQ. I didn't really understand why it's recommended to adjust gain AFTER you do the auto tune setup. Seems to me if the gain is at minimum and you try to do the auto tune, that the speakers won't properly emit the full unclipped signal where all frequencies would be audible to the microphone. Also I'm curious about the requirement for the vehicle to be turned off. Wouldn't the sound of the car from inside be valuable in the DSP determining the proper frequencies to compensate for since the car will always be turned on when listening anyway? Or does the DSP not analyze the vehicles acoustics first? What I would like to see in the future is maybe an RCA subwoofer output that can automatically tune that output for an external amp powering a sub. That way the sub will have the proper phase and time delay to match the fronts.
What a difference this tiny thing makes. KICKER Should get a reward for making life simple and easy. There is no other brand that can compare with kicker.
I don’t understand why people always hate on kicker products. Kicker makes some very nice stuff in my opinion, my only complaint is that their top end sub woofers like the L7 for example don’t have re-cone kits. If they could just build some drop in re-cones then I’d literally never use any other brand, so please KICKER make some drop in re-cones for your high end subwoofers!!!
Great job on this video guys, keep up the great work on educating all of us do it yourselfers out here so we can have awesome products installed, ourselves. Thanks again and have a blessed week. Dale
I have this and am installing it with a PlugNPlay harness. It will be installed inside the dash (not really accessible). I am planning on upgrading my speakers in the future so I was wondering if I can calibrate it now to my factory speakers but leave the microphone plugged-in long term so that when I get new speakers and calibrate it again for those speakers, I won't have to tear apart my dash to get to the amp to plug in the microphone again. Is there any harm in just letting the mic plugged-in? Thanks.
Will the speaker to rca converter work if I’m connecting to the factory radio instead of a factory amplifier? I noticed that you didn’t use an actual LOC for this job.
If you don't need/want to increase the input voltage this would yes. Some factory radios only send out like 2v preamp and more preamp voltage. More preamp voltage means lower gain requirement. I believe the preferred voltage is around 4v
I'm just wondering what can I use to power my factory amplifier it's no good can I use any kind of 4 channel amplifier to replace my factory amplifier to power my 4 skar door speakers I'm using a Sony head unit it's for a 1999 SLT dodge Durango
Good install vid but crimp connectors? Surely soldering would provide better contact? Also can you chop off the RCA input jacks and just wire to a high level input using the speaker wires?
Soldering is bad for audio throughput. Solder adds some notable attenuation. I recommend twisting wires with added heat shrink. If twisting is not possible then crimping.
If they're coaxials you can absolutely do that. Depending on the make/model you might be leaving a little output on the table. For example, KICKER's 6.5 CS Coaxials have a recommended power rating of 100W. The four KEY200.4 channels are 50W each @ 4 ohms. If you're Bi-Amping (where woofer and tweeter each get their own channel) you'll only have enough for 4 drivers, in which case the two 6.5 woofers are installed on AMP 2, and the two tweeters are installed on AMP 1.
I’m planning on running this to my front and rear speakers. My problem is my fronts are split with my dash speakers. The front doors are kicker 6x9 cs series split with pioneer 2.75 co-axial. The rears are 6.5 kicker ds series.would it be better to run bi amp mode and just run the 2.75s separate from the 6x9s or just do it simple and skip by amp mode… run all 6 speakers front and rear.
I have a spare blade fuse location in my interior fuse box for unused power windows, this would typically have a 20A fuse (or breaker), I am thinking of using a "Add a Circuit" power tap to bring that spare fuse location out, would that and 16/14AWG wire be fine over only 2 feet or so to the amp?
@@koffinNAILS Hey yes it did work, turns out the unused fuse spot was heated seats my car was equip with - so worked, used a fuse tap to bring it out of the fuse box. And ys it works fine as main power delivery - on/off is handled by headunit amp enable line
So frustrated right now, I finished the bi amp key setup, all fine, happy tone, the music was playing nicely, moved to gain matching and fried both tweeters with the 50hz test tone, no limiter red light was shown or anything. I'm still trying to understand why the amp was sending such low frequencies to the tweeter. What could have happened, fader was OFF, Bi amp on, kicker EQ off, compression OFF, using just front channels, woofers connected to hear outputs, tweeter to front outputs. Didn't the Key setup separate the frequencies properly? why the tweeter got burned while woofer was not even close to limit and red light didn't come up?
How would the Key200 work for a 6.5 in the door, and 3 and a tweeter in the dash, no "rear fill"? Keeping it Kicker, COMP RT 6.75, a KSC270 and KS Tweeter. The RT's to Amp 2, the mid's highs to Amp 1. Would the Key setup properly if not in Bi-Amp mode because of passive crossovers?
That's probably not enough power to give all 3 components the juice they need to be dynamic at higher volume, but we have seen people use the KEY as a preamp (using the auto-tune to handle the acoustics and time alignment), then running the outputs of the KEY into a higher RMS amplifier, like a bridged CXA360.4. Note: make sure you disconnect the sub before the auto setup.
I bought the key 200 for the four doors and a key 500 for the kicker 12 inch sub. I’m hooking up to a factory radio. How do I get a 5th channel for the sub when I only have 4 speaker outputs from the radio? Thanks
Im looking to purchase this for my classic '72 chrysler. It has no OEM factor speakers as i will be buying two JBL GTO949 GTO 6X9" 300W for rears only. What recommendations can you provide with setup since im only running two 6x9 speakers? Thanks in advance.
The RMS on that JBL speaker is 100 watts. For our speakers, we recommend you be within 20% of RMS power ratings. We can do you one better - contact our Tech Support at 405-624-8510 and they will create a schematic for you. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST.
It has to be very quiet when you run the test. If you that's not the case, it could be the issue. If not, you are welcome to contact Tech Support. They can walk you through the troubleshooting process. They can be reached at support@kicker.com or 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 central time.
Lots of real good information but he didn't do Gain Matching as described on page 11 (Maybe he did it but forgot to talk about it) I put in a new head unit (with 4 x RCA outputs) and 4 x 6-1/2 inch coaxial identical speakers and a powered subwoofer under the passenger seat but I turned it off for the setup. I turned the Auto turn on - 12v because I used the blue wire , fader - on, compression - on (EN), bi amp mode - off, EQ - on, Time Delay - EN (ON), Amp 1 & 2 - off Did not use or need Radio Detect because I used 4 x RCA outputs from the head unit
May i know which gauge wire should i use as power line with the inline fuse holder? Worry that i am using over or under size gauge which may cause issue. Cheers!
Unless its an extraordinarily long run (more than 20 feet), 8AWG wire is appropriate. Here is a link to our Wiring Diagrams. Once there, please click on the Power Wire Chart link, near the bottom of the page: www.kicker.com/wiring-diagrams
Can I run 2 of these in the same system? I have a 2016 single cab Chevy. I want to put a set of 47KSS6904 6x9 components in the door with the tweeter on the center mount, 47KSC404 4” coax in the B pillars, and 47KS2704 2 3/4” mids in the dash. How should I run the amps to the speakers? 1. one amp run the 4s and 6x9s & one amp runs the tweets and 2 3/4s 2. one amp run the 4s and tweets & one amp to the 6x9 and 2 3/4s 3. Amp 1 to the 4s and 2 3/4s & Amp 2 to the 6x9s and tweets in the doors 4. Something else
@@KICKER-AUDIO Does it have time alignment? That’s kind of the entire point of the Key amps. Also, your site says that amp isn’t currently available for purchase. And since you are answering questions, when are you coming out with a real DSP and when will the 2 3/4s be back in stock?
What if you have after market 14 gauge speaker wire running from all your aftermarket speaker? How would you hook those up to the Kicker key it the wire from the harness is a lot smaller wire?
A crimp connector or solder/shrink are the traditional ways of joining two wires. There are many videos out there to help show you proper soldering techniques if you need it.
Look at the 4 ohm section of this chart: images.app.goo.gl/xKfV55jd8BtKPpGC8 You'll notice that even a 20 AWG wire only loses 1% of its power per foot. DC (power wire) and AC (speaker wire) lose power at very different rates, so while you may lose some power, the loss is extremely small. If this were a big bass amp, with lots of power and a long run of smaller wire, then yes it could be a concern, but with your setup you shouldn't notice any difference in volume.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Thanx! How do i get them in my device? The Kicker was first installed in a Peugeot 3008 but now i want to install it in a Audi A4 B8 Avant :)
The KEY is a 4 channel amp, so we chose to biamp the front channels (it's a set of separates) as this is where most of the staging and sound quality comes from. The factory amp runs the stock rear speakers and subwoofer.
@@KICKER-AUDIO can you tune the equalizer to your specific liking? i usually do a letter V on my equalizers and they sound the best. how many equalizers, did i just see 3?
What is front and rear on the RCA jack harness ? Green wire with white RCA jack goes to the head unit front or back RCA jack output ? Purple wire with red RCA jack goes to the head unit front or back RCA jack output ? Head unit is Pioneer DEH-S4100BT.
If you are referring to the Key wiring harness, the wiring info is on the quick start guide: www.kicker.com/app/manuals/amplifiers/key/2018_KEY_QSG.pdf
If i unplug the microphone, will the kicker eq activate automatically? Currently i have it connected and i have to press the microphone button to activate the eq each time i turn on my car.
@@jvalcik1 My case was kinda funny. It was working fine all along. I just needed to make some minor eq adjustments on my stereo and phone to make it sound great to MY ears. The autosetup should NOT be entirely relied on since everyone's hearing is different. Autosetup brings your system to a good place, then its up to you to adjust your systems EQ, balance, and fade settings to fit your hearing so it sounds good to you.
Yeah, as a complete novice, you just taught me to not bother buying your product and trying this install. I know less now than when I started this video 😂.
If you like, we can walk you through it. Our Tech Support is available from 8-5 weekdays at 405-624-8510. If you would like a professional installer to handle it, here is the link to find a dealer: www.kicker.com/dealer-locator
You might want to check the quick start guide first (on the product page). If you are still confused, you can give us a call at 405-624-8510, and ask for tech support. we are open weekdays from 8-5 central time. If you are still confused, you can always go to a local dealer and have them install it.
That's not easy at fucking all, you don't explain the polarity for someone who doesn't know, you don't explain much at all. You said "just how easy it is" but you forgot to say "just how easy it is, for someone who's been doing car audio installs for 30 years"
That amplifier is built specifically to power mids and highs. Depending on the sub you're talking about, you might want to check out the CX series of mono Kicker amps.
Gabe Sorenson the amp does have a trigger for another amp, so yes that is possible. Just bear in mind how this amp's tuning process is designed. You'll need a single full range output that the key amp will not tune (so it doesn't remove the sub signal from it.)
i am not a fan of added harnesses. Harnesses may be more condensed on the unit, but it adds another connection point in my wiring. plus my wires are ready to terminate into the conventional sockets. I dont want to have to twist and heat shrink my wires to your harness. Also I am wondering how you adjust the 40-band EQ ?? Some DSP Amps have an APP...
The EQ is automatically adjusted. There are certainly other DSP-enabled units that offer an app to control the sound, but they are far more expensive. This was meant to be a simple, affordable way to dramatically increase sound quality and imaging. As far as the harness, there are too many variables, providing harnesses for every make and model would force the price to increase (lots of R&D needed), so we chose not to do that.
I recently bought this amp. I previously have had JL slash, XD, RF oldschool gear and a host of various car audio gear over the last 20 years. I bought this because I am down grading in size and complexity. The days of huge subs, separate DSP's and huge amplifiers just gives me more anxieties about theft, collision, etc while being loud isn't a big deal for me any more so I went with the discreet, small and simple route this time.
This amp fits anywhere in a compact car and it was nice to use smaller gauge wiring for a change. I have a Pioneer HU with built in DSP and this amp's auto tuning makes it sound better than my manual tweaking usually gets. Although we all have our own sound bias and I hope Kicker takes this into consideration next time by allowing some form of control over EQ, maybe via a phone app. But I found this auto EQ acceptable for people that listen to Orchestra music or something but it could use a little more "ooomph" in the mid bass for other types so I tweaked it further use my HU's built in EQ.
I didn't really understand why it's recommended to adjust gain AFTER you do the auto tune setup. Seems to me if the gain is at minimum and you try to do the auto tune, that the speakers won't properly emit the full unclipped signal where all frequencies would be audible to the microphone.
Also I'm curious about the requirement for the vehicle to be turned off. Wouldn't the sound of the car from inside be valuable in the DSP determining the proper frequencies to compensate for since the car will always be turned on when listening anyway? Or does the DSP not analyze the vehicles acoustics first?
What I would like to see in the future is maybe an RCA subwoofer output that can automatically tune that output for an external amp powering a sub. That way the sub will have the proper phase and time delay to match the fronts.
What a difference this tiny thing makes. KICKER Should get a reward for making life simple and easy. There is no other brand that can compare with kicker.
I don’t understand why people always hate on kicker products. Kicker makes some very nice stuff in my opinion, my only complaint is that their top end sub woofers like the L7 for example don’t have re-cone kits. If they could just build some drop in re-cones then I’d literally never use any other brand, so please KICKER make some drop in re-cones for your high end subwoofers!!!
Colton Newman You never know what the future holds.
@@KICKER-AUDIO O_o
Great job on this video guys, keep up the great work on educating all of us do it yourselfers out here so we can have awesome products installed, ourselves.
Thanks again and have a blessed week.
Dale
How about the gain setup?
Doesn’t need?
I have this and am installing it with a PlugNPlay harness. It will be installed inside the dash (not really accessible). I am planning on upgrading my speakers in the future so I was wondering if I can calibrate it now to my factory speakers but leave the microphone plugged-in long term so that when I get new speakers and calibrate it again for those speakers, I won't have to tear apart my dash to get to the amp to plug in the microphone again. Is there any harm in just letting the mic plugged-in? Thanks.
Why did you use the KISL (Upselling :P) ? Just cut the Female ends off and use those, Im pretty sure thats why they designed it like that.
Will the speaker to rca converter work if I’m connecting to the factory radio instead of a factory amplifier? I noticed that you didn’t use an actual LOC for this job.
I want to do the same to please share whatever information u got
If you don't need/want to increase the input voltage this would yes. Some factory radios only send out like 2v preamp and more preamp voltage. More preamp voltage means lower gain requirement. I believe the preferred voltage is around 4v
I'm just wondering what can I use to power my factory amplifier it's no good can I use any kind of 4 channel amplifier to replace my factory amplifier to power my 4 skar door speakers I'm using a Sony head unit it's for a 1999 SLT dodge Durango
Good install vid but crimp connectors? Surely soldering would provide better contact? Also can you chop off the RCA input jacks and just wire to a high level input using the speaker wires?
Soldering is bad for audio throughput. Solder adds some notable attenuation. I recommend twisting wires with added heat shrink. If twisting is not possible then crimping.
Can I run 4 6.5 woofers and the tweeters to this ? If so do I add the tweeters to input 1 and 2 ?
If they're coaxials you can absolutely do that. Depending on the make/model you might be leaving a little output on the table. For example, KICKER's 6.5 CS Coaxials have a recommended power rating of 100W. The four KEY200.4 channels are 50W each @ 4 ohms. If you're Bi-Amping (where woofer and tweeter each get their own channel) you'll only have enough for 4 drivers, in which case the two 6.5 woofers are installed on AMP 2, and the two tweeters are installed on AMP 1.
I’m planning on running this to my front and rear speakers. My problem is my fronts are split with my dash speakers. The front doors are kicker 6x9 cs series split with pioneer 2.75 co-axial. The rears are 6.5 kicker ds series.would it be better to run bi amp mode and just run the 2.75s separate from the 6x9s or just do it simple and skip by amp mode… run all 6 speakers front and rear.
I was wondering the same thing! I have a 2015 Silverado with the same setup but I have all Kicker KS speakers?
I have a spare blade fuse location in my interior fuse box for unused power windows, this would typically have a 20A fuse (or breaker), I am thinking of using a "Add a Circuit" power tap to bring that spare fuse location out, would that and 16/14AWG wire be fine over only 2 feet or so to the amp?
Hey did this work for you for power? Does the speakers bump when trun ing key?
@@koffinNAILS Hey yes it did work, turns out the unused fuse spot was heated seats my car was equip with - so worked, used a fuse tap to bring it out of the fuse box. And ys it works fine as main power delivery - on/off is handled by headunit amp enable line
Can this amp fit inside the dash board where the after market radio sit in
So frustrated right now, I finished the bi amp key setup, all fine, happy tone, the music was playing nicely, moved to gain matching and fried both tweeters with the 50hz test tone, no limiter red light was shown or anything. I'm still trying to understand why the amp was sending such low frequencies to the tweeter. What could have happened, fader was OFF, Bi amp on, kicker EQ off, compression OFF, using just front channels, woofers connected to hear outputs, tweeter to front outputs. Didn't the Key setup separate the frequencies properly? why the tweeter got burned while woofer was not even close to limit and red light didn't come up?
Try calling Tech Support at 405-624-8510 or email them at support@kicker.com. Open weekdays from 8-5cst. They are happy to help you with setup!
How would the Key200 work for a 6.5 in the door, and 3 and a tweeter in the dash, no "rear fill"?
Keeping it Kicker, COMP RT 6.75, a KSC270 and KS Tweeter.
The RT's to Amp 2, the mid's highs to Amp 1. Would the Key setup properly if not in Bi-Amp mode because of passive crossovers?
That's probably not enough power to give all 3 components the juice they need to be dynamic at higher volume, but we have seen people use the KEY as a preamp (using the auto-tune to handle the acoustics and time alignment), then running the outputs of the KEY into a higher RMS amplifier, like a bridged CXA360.4. Note: make sure you disconnect the sub before the auto setup.
I bought the key 200 for the four doors and a key 500 for the kicker 12 inch sub. I’m hooking up to a factory radio. How do I get a 5th channel for the sub when I only have 4 speaker outputs from the radio? Thanks
Once your Key 200 is set up, you can use and set of speaker wires that is getting full range or subwoofer signal to pass to the Key 500.
Im looking to purchase this for my classic '72 chrysler. It has no OEM factor speakers as i will be buying two JBL GTO949 GTO 6X9" 300W for rears only. What recommendations can you provide with setup since im only running two 6x9 speakers? Thanks in advance.
The RMS on that JBL speaker is 100 watts. For our speakers, we recommend you be within 20% of RMS power ratings. We can do you one better - contact our Tech Support at 405-624-8510 and they will create a schematic for you. They are open weekdays from 8-5 CST.
What is the red prt light mean when it comes on on ACXA 600.1 kicker app
I’m getting 4 beeps it’s says check pink noise is playing at an adequately high volume but it is playing the pink noise what could be the problem
It has to be very quiet when you run the test. If you that's not the case, it could be the issue. If not, you are welcome to contact Tech Support. They can walk you through the troubleshooting process. They can be reached at support@kicker.com or 405-624-8510. They are open weekdays from 8-5 central time.
how can i get an other microphone and wire mine got cut off ?
Lots of real good information but he didn't do Gain Matching as described on page 11 (Maybe he did it but forgot to talk about it) I put in a new head unit (with 4 x RCA outputs) and 4 x 6-1/2 inch coaxial identical speakers and a powered subwoofer under the passenger seat but I turned it off for the setup. I turned the Auto turn on - 12v because I used the blue wire , fader - on, compression - on (EN), bi amp mode - off, EQ - on, Time Delay - EN (ON), Amp 1 & 2 - off Did not use or need Radio Detect because I used 4 x RCA outputs from the head unit
May i know which gauge wire should i use as power line with the inline fuse holder? Worry that i am using over or under size gauge which may cause issue. Cheers!
Unless its an extraordinarily long run (more than 20 feet), 8AWG wire is appropriate. Here is a link to our Wiring Diagrams. Once there, please click on the Power Wire Chart link, near the bottom of the page: www.kicker.com/wiring-diagrams
@@KICKER-AUDIO8 gauge? Doesn't the manual specify 14 gauge?
Can I run 2 of these in the same system?
I have a 2016 single cab Chevy. I want to put a set of
47KSS6904 6x9 components in the door with the tweeter on the center mount,
47KSC404 4” coax in the B pillars, and
47KS2704 2 3/4” mids in the dash.
How should I run the amps to the speakers?
1. one amp run the 4s and 6x9s & one amp runs the tweets and 2 3/4s
2. one amp run the 4s and tweets & one amp to the 6x9 and 2 3/4s
3. Amp 1 to the 4s and 2 3/4s & Amp 2 to the 6x9s and tweets in the doors
4. Something else
Running a CXA360.4 is one good option. Parallel 4's & tweets.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Does it have time alignment? That’s kind of the entire point of the Key amps. Also, your site says that amp isn’t currently available for purchase.
And since you are answering questions, when are you coming out with a real DSP and when will the 2 3/4s be back in stock?
I want to run this amp on my truck using the 2 front door speakers only. will bi-amp mode output 100 watts to each speaker ??
using the kicker key 200.4 *******
@@r9er It will depend on the ohm load of the speakers. Can you tell us what they are?
@@KICKER-AUDIO I was to run one of your speakers. they're all 4 ohms CS or KS 6.5 coaxials. just don't know which to get.
Do i just run it on same wire as my after market cd player
Yes it does. Exactly right.
What if you have after market 14 gauge speaker wire running from all your aftermarket speaker? How would you hook those up to the Kicker key it the wire from the harness is a lot smaller wire?
A crimp connector or solder/shrink are the traditional ways of joining two wires. There are many videos out there to help show you proper soldering techniques if you need it.
@@KICKER-AUDIO I mean more in the sense of a bottleneck due to the larger gauge wire to a smaller one.
Look at the 4 ohm section of this chart: images.app.goo.gl/xKfV55jd8BtKPpGC8 You'll notice that even a 20 AWG wire only loses 1% of its power per foot. DC (power wire) and AC (speaker wire) lose power at very different rates, so while you may lose some power, the loss is extremely small. If this were a big bass amp, with lots of power and a long run of smaller wire, then yes it could be a concern, but with your setup you shouldn't notice any difference in volume.
My kicker Key will not auto setup. The pink noise just keeps playing and playing no happy sounds or sad sounds. What am I doing wrong?
Did you contact Tech Support? 405-624-8510 open weekdays from 8-5 cst.
what song is playing in this video
Is the install of the KICKER KEY 180.1 the same? Thanx!
Yes. The KEY 180.4 and 200.4 are installed and set up in the same way.
@@KICKER-AUDIO Thanx and how do i get the testsound in the device or is it already in?
@@AndyNuberg here are our test tones: www.kicker.com/test-tones
@@KICKER-AUDIO Thanx! How do i get them in my device? The Kicker was first installed in a Peugeot 3008 but now i want to install it in a Audi A4 B8 Avant :)
Why did you plug the factory amp back in if your bypassing the amp with the kicker key?
The KEY is a 4 channel amp, so we chose to biamp the front channels (it's a set of separates) as this is where most of the staging and sound quality comes from. The factory amp runs the stock rear speakers and subwoofer.
Does this work like active crossover where i remove my passive crossover from my component speaker?
moalt wisp it can if you want to run it in biamp mode.
@@KICKER-AUDIO can you tune the equalizer to your specific liking? i usually do a letter V on my equalizers and they sound the best. how many equalizers, did i just see 3?
Where is a good source of quality pink noise best used for this type of amp?
I’m not sure if you have found your answer but Kicker provides the test tones on their website
@@ryanbisi3830 thank you
It works !
How to i connect it i have a 96 Honda accord
What is front and rear on the RCA jack harness ?
Green wire with white RCA jack goes to the head unit front or back RCA jack output ?
Purple wire with red RCA jack goes to the head unit front or back RCA jack output ?
Head unit is Pioneer DEH-S4100BT.
If you are referring to the Key wiring harness, the wiring info is on the quick start guide: www.kicker.com/app/manuals/amplifiers/key/2018_KEY_QSG.pdf
What if the car has no factory amplifier how do you hook it up?
If you have no external amp, then the amplifier is built into the radio itself.
Just hook it up to the speaker wires and set line input to high
How is this compared to Alpine 445u?
The 445 Doesn't do any audio correction. It's just a power pack.
6:10 set up , pink noise.
If i unplug the microphone, will the kicker eq activate automatically? Currently i have it connected and i have to press the microphone button to activate the eq each time i turn on my car.
I'm having the same exact issue with a new setup in my car - did you ever figure out why the EQ isn't activated without pushing the mic button?
@@jvalcik1 My case was kinda funny. It was working fine all along. I just needed to make some minor eq adjustments on my stereo and phone to make it sound great to MY ears. The autosetup should NOT be entirely relied on since everyone's hearing is different. Autosetup brings your system to a good place, then its up to you to adjust your systems EQ, balance, and fade settings to fit your hearing so it sounds good to you.
1:45 Left and Right RCA inputs.
I'm sorry I need help! 07 cobalt factory stero battery is in trunk. How and were? please
Please contact Technical Support. They are open weekdays from 8-5 cst at 405-624-8510 or by email: support@kicker.com.
Yeah, as a complete novice, you just taught me to not bother buying your product and trying this install. I know less now than when I started this video 😂.
If you like, we can walk you through it. Our Tech Support is available from 8-5 weekdays at 405-624-8510. If you would like a professional installer to handle it, here is the link to find a dealer: www.kicker.com/dealer-locator
3:26 Yes I need blue wire.
3:45 Dip switches.
Why would u want to tune the front speakers wtf 🤔?
Bi-Amp mode, only front speakers amplified, that's why. Rears are powered by oem stereo
Why wouldn't you? You want your best sound from the front, not the rear
Because you don't drive from the back seat.
If you go to a concert, do you turn your back to the stage?
What is paint noise loaded mean???
How do I get that paint noise static noise??
@@tjoeyjoe69 It's called Pink Noise, you can download test tracks at Kicker's website
I a little lost
You might want to check the quick start guide first (on the product page). If you are still confused, you can give us a call at 405-624-8510, and ask for tech support. we are open weekdays from 8-5 central time. If you are still confused, you can always go to a local dealer and have them install it.
That's not easy at fucking all, you don't explain the polarity for someone who doesn't know, you don't explain much at all. You said "just how easy it is" but you forgot to say "just how easy it is, for someone who's been doing car audio installs for 30 years"
How should the gain be adjusted?
How would I hook up a 10 inch sub woofer to the amp?
That amplifier is built specifically to power mids and highs. Depending on the sub you're talking about, you might want to check out the CX series of mono Kicker amps.
KICKER would I be able to hook up a bigger amp to this amp for a bigger sub
Gabe Sorenson the amp does have a trigger for another amp, so yes that is possible. Just bear in mind how this amp's tuning process is designed. You'll need a single full range output that the key amp will not tune (so it doesn't remove the sub signal from it.)