I grew up in Germany in the 80s and when I got my first car at age 18; I made a dream come true and bought a brand new Blaupunkt Nashville SX straight out of the store. It cost 599.- Marks. That is at least $1.500 in 2022 Dollars. Two times the money I spent on the car. Damn was I proud. The first car stereo on the market with an automatic track skip autoreverse tape deck if I remember correctly. It's a bit strange that they sell $49 amps under that brand now...
Looks like they were owned by Bosch until 2009 or so. I had an amp and a pair of their 6x9's in my old Cherokee that I picked up in the early 00's. Really decent quality at that point still, I actually transferred that amp through two other cars until a channel on it finally died in 2018 or so. Other than the EMF issues 50-1000 bucks for a 600W RMS@2ohm isn't bad at all. I would have *killed* to get that much power on my first set up at the price.
@@MEatRHIT2009 Not Blaupunkt but, I bought a $25 'DUAL' car stereo tuner/amp combo from Walmart 4 years ago and, it's held up, 25W RMS per channel. I can't remember if it's a 2 or 4 speaker unit but, what I paid for the thing, who cares, rhetorically speaking?
@@wal I wanna know who the actual manufacturers are that they license the name out to. With the spelling errors and everything this just seems like the most random Amazon garbage but with a recognizable name slapped on - the fate of every German company at some point, it seems.
The same as Telefunken, Becker, AEG, Grundig, Merklin, Schiesser.......They are greedy scavengers, investment scum! This shit has nothing to do with German products that these companies once made.
Blau punkt is what the customer is since the nineties. F that. Study your subject. Dont trust bs. F brand names. Car audio is shot since the turn of the century. Good luck
You forget Blaupunkt thinks the owners of these amps are dumb. Just like Boss, Planet audio, autotek, etc they are playing the max watt game on the box for first time buyers. False advertising and embarrassing the owners.
Totally! Back in the day getting a clean 600 wats on 2 ohms was unheard of for 50 bucks! Here's where I do my old man shaking fist at the cloud and say kids don't know how good they have it now!
Back in my early days of car audio they could've honestly sold it at 500w to 1000w peak. Even for $50 or even the normal $125 value it would still sell no problem all day. Being dishonest is a sure fire way to keep me well away from any products. Good reviews guys 😎🤙
Well a discerning customer should know when they’re falling into buying junk. A good amp should run you at least 500 bucks. A great amp 1,500-2,000 bucks. Anyone who believes 4000w for a hundred bucks deserves what they get.
There was a time when Blaupunkt was available only at exclusive retailers. They made a set of honeycomb flat speakers that cost a mint back in the day - but their sound was incredible. These guys and Soundstream, whose amps were all USA made…now manufactured to a spec that only WalMart would attempt to sell.
@@drewdoestrucks You are correct. Blaupunkt was German, Soundstream was USA. Sorry about my ill-written comment as it logically says they were both USA made, when they were obviously not.
Granted, it's nowhere near its rated power, but, if I spent ~$50.00 for this amp, I would be quite happy with it. That harmonic might be a high frequency superimposed on the audio signal. No problem, subwoofers have enough inductance to ignore that. If you're using this as a 'full range' amplifier, that high frequency could damage tweeters, especially piezo tweeters, unless they have resistors in series with them. That high frequency bleed through is likely the result of magnetic core saturation of the output inductor. That will only happen, at very low output impedance, where the output current exceeds the saturation current of that inductor. You're absolutely right, to look at the fuses. That is a "dead giveaway" as to the theoretical output power of the amplifier.
I knew I’d find the one person sticking up for this amp! Car audio used to, RIGHTFULLY, be extremely expensive, thus keeping kids and losers out of it. Jesus
I'm not sticking up for this amp either, buttttt if someone said "Hey, I got an amp that is guaranteed to produce 800 watts at 1ohm, and it only costs $50", I'd be all over it. You can't dispute that lol. There's amps out here for $50 that you might get 100 watts.@@arthurkitchen8896
I never get why they just don’t advertise these power outputs that you just showed us. For the price it’s pretty impressive unless I’m wrong. For $50 or $100 it’s pretty good
Same thing with flashlights. I've bought several lately (because I knew the LED chip used in them was very good) for $50 on Amazon yet they were advertised at ridiculous ratings like 20,000 lumen. In reality, they're more like 4,000 lumen with is still nice for $50
It is GOING to sound like ass. I don't care how cheap it is, I wouldn't want it. Edit: Also, I REFUSE to support a totally dishonest company. I am NOT going to be slapped in the face by a company the second I purchase their product, which is exactly WHAT happened to anyone who purchased one.
You know what's funny even though the amp is nowhere near the power that it's rated it is more than definitely acceptable for the price getting that kind of RMS wattage for $50 is an excellent buy ! LOL
Yeh that's not bad for 49 Dollars,I had a 10 in my old Scion TC and I was only running 300 watts with a mtx audio amp and that thing bumped on the inside not so much the outside but all of my friends thought it was loud lol
Shop (affiliate link): amzn.to/3CyHDKx See HiFiVega's video here: ruclips.net/video/C_w0ztevaR4/видео.html Subscribe to HiFiVega: ruclips.net/user/HifiVega Subscribe to my 2nd channel: ruclips.net/user/WheelieWilliston Updated Behind the scenes video: ruclips.net/video/1W1ay6R3f6A/видео.html Video Index: 0:00 Intro 0:45 Blaupunkt Amps 1:48 Unboxing the Amp 3:08 Features and Specs 4:50 Amp Dyno Tests 8:47 Do It Bump Doe? 10:03 Thermals and Guts 11:00 Pros / Cons 11:38 Conclusion 12:24 Extras SMD / D'Amore Engineering Amp Dyno: goo.gl/sJTcf7 XS Power D1400 Batteries - amzn.to/2BPFCKW XS Power PSC60 Charger - amzn.to/2CHGcfs Fluke 1000A AC/DC Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2Rw5WDA Handheld Dyno: amzn.to/2u2EgKV My Favorite Screwdriver Kit: amzn.to/2x0VzcE DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Hey, you do realize that Walmart will license a name and pay a third party to produce it? Since it doesn't show up on Blaupunkt's website that's the safest thing to assume here.
I like that they separated the power and ground inputs with the remote turn on. The further away from each other the better. I hate when a random single strand of copper gets into the personal space of either + or _ Also if you have 2 of these amps on 2 (12") or 10" dvc subs wired to 2 or 1 ohm. You could push them well for under a hundred bucks!
It’s crazy to see all these brands that we used to love back in the 90s. Blau, MBQuart, PPi, Nakamichi don’t even resemble their past self. MB Quart is still somewhat decent as Maxxsonics has done an ok job with them. But these blaupunkt units? Come on!
I grew up in the 80s in Germany and the serious competitors in our community were Blaupunkt, Clarion, Alpine and Grundig. The good Grundig stuff was sold only in Germany, though. It was too expensive to get the EMI and UL certifications for those small volume productions. Hence no export to the US. And it's strange to see where Grundig went. They sell utter trash under that great brand now. Fourty years ago they sold almost mil-spec highend stuff that cost an arm and a leg. Their preamplifiers from the late 70s are highly sought after now and always were.
I have an 800w 1ohm rated Nakamichi (NKSD800.1) currently clamping just over 1100w at 0.5ohm on stock electrical, haven't had a single issue with the amp in the year I've owned it
Stumbled on to this video somehow and I couldn’t turn it off. It was pretty informative and funny. The Doughboy/Ice Cube cut away was great! Last 4 days my question to my family is, “Do It Bump Doe?” LOLOLOL Good job!
They also have a 12" pioneer sub that bangs (think it's 1200w) I got it for a test speaker for building boxes and I ended up keeping it. It was $75 and it's still going 16 months later with everyday use.
This is reminiscent of the graphic equalizer/power amp units that J.C. Whitney used to sell. They offered huge power, three or four dozen band pots on a tiny box, all for $12.95.
The EMI issues brings up a concern with these cheap amps you frequently test. Adding a braided ground cable may help protect your dyno from contracting some electrically transmitted disease… Blaupunkt on your tweeter wouldn’t be too good. Sweet video as always
@@wal - Go buy a 15 volt MeanWell switching power supply. They make them that run on 125 and 250 volts for the really strong stuff. They make them from 25 watts up into the thousands of watts. Great brand and great company. Also, where is the oscilloscope? Get a scope and show the power line for the EMI. That will show you any funky shit going on as well as high frequency parasitic outputs that will cook a woofer without it making a sound. If you have high frequency energy making it out to the speaker you can burn it up because it cannot move to cool. Try the test yourself on a full range powerful amp and a signal generator on a woofer. Smoke that bitch. Seriously get a scope. Check the powerlines. If its backfeeding noise toward the car, Ceramic, Tantalum, and an electrolytic cap on the power input will get rid of transients and electromotive and electromagnetic interference riding on the power line from the shitty switcher in the amp.
I sitting here looking at a Phoenix Gold MS250 on my shelf from the early 90's that I'm pretty sure was more than $500 in todays dollars and probably not good for more than a couple hundred watts on a good day.
$1 a watt, clamped 20k on my Crossfire 16k, there's no way I would spend 20k on an amp, really amazing how cheap it is now, paid $1200 for my Memphis Bell, in 2002
My ZPA 0.5 retailed for $1350 in 1999. Pretty much exactly at $1/watt like it was for ages. The inflation calculator says that's $2300 in 2022 money, 46 Blaupunkt amps. 🤣
I was too young to really recall, but my brother would always say Blaupunkt made some of the best sounding head units back in the 80's-90's. Sad to see what theyve become now. Still.. thats useful power output despite it not being close to rated.
@@79huddy I think it's still Bosch that's making the stuff for vw/audi but they sold the rights to the consumer market to some zombie brand company. I remember seeing their units suddenly being just re-branded white box crap that you could buy cheaper under less names.
I remember listening to the speakers at an electronic store and wanting the Blaupunkt (BluePoint) speakers because they just plain sounded better than anything else. I wish I could find 4 of those 6.5 inch three ways from back in the late 80's early 90's I saw. If I found them I would certainly buy them. They also did not have foam surround. They had a gummy wetted wrinkled cloth edge surround with a high density paper cone. I always worry about NOS speakers if they are foam surround from that vintage because the foam disintegrates and you are left with a shitty mess to fix. The replacement cones and coils are not always as good of quality as the ones made back then. Its sad but many things made today are just plain shit.
The kenwood amp was the best amp i ever owned. It never overheated or got really hot. It pushed two 10 in subs and and two 8's . No issurs. Was loud and this was back in the 90's
I'm going to show my age: every time I see or hear "Blaupunkt" I instantly remember the scene from Top Secret! where Hillary tells Nick "I was studying Black History at the University of Blaupunkt".
Honestly though for $50 it ain't bad! I have a question though. What's the best way to set the amp gain if you don't have any good info on the amp or the head unit?
Use an oscilloscope for the head unit and amp. If you don’t have that, set your head into at 3/4 of its max volume. Then play a song you know well or trustworthy source for test tones and tune the amp gain by ear
@@devinyoung1338 Thanks! That's pretty much what I did I was just hoping there was a better way. I don't have an oscilloscope unfortunately... I've wanted one for a long time just never had a good enough reason to spend the money on it.
If I was in a pinch. I would buy this for 50$ for sure After almost 3 years I still have a ignite audio "6000w" mono Ive clamped it doing around 1000w clean (just like your videos shown)
Been running 1200 clean real rms watts for years. It all depends what you do with it. Had 4 10s and a 12 in a car was amazing. Had 4 10s in another one and it sucked. Now 2 10s and a 15 on 1200 rms is amazing.
I miss my old setup. I had just 1 10" dual cone woofer. I had it wired in series to pull 1 ohm from my Kenwood amp pushing 1000 watt. That little woofer pumped. I loved it.
I remember back in the 80s 90s.Blaupunk used to be fitted to high end Mercedes cars.They were very expensive ICE.But all of a sudden they became cheap middle of the road products and great value for money.
LMAO Cutco knives are horrendous especially for the price you pay. The steel is crap, hardly takes a good edge and the straight edged blades dull extremely quickly
@@MEatRHIT2009 oh my God! What the hell are you even talking about!? Look, I know Cutco has it's issues in certain areas of their marketing plan, but name a brand that gives you more bang for your buck.....I'll wait.
Man, random video for me, getting major flashbacks to the junk manuals included with all the amps I had as a teenager in the 90s. Profile California series was an iconic (in a bad way) model of that era.
@CRACKED HEAD I've got a TON of these ATC style 50 amp fuses... How many you willing to buy? I'll sell them to you $5 each! That should be a steal of a deal for ya.
@@frostbite1991 I get it. What I meant is that I’ve never come across a 12volt device that used 50 amp ATC fuses. 40’s have become common enough, but there are better choices out there for fusing.
They could put 10, 60A fuses in it, it still only hit 800 out of 4000 watts. 14.4x150=2160. 800/14.4=55. Seems like they could have used 1, 60A available at auto zone for $4.99.
People don't seam to get it. 50 AMPS is too much for the ATC/ATO fuse to physically handle. If you google for a little or bussman brand ATC/ATO 50 AMP fuse you won't find any, you'll find MAXI fuses which are bigger in physical size. If a brand makes 50 amp fuses. I'd be suspect of the quality of any of their fuses. Many Cars do have 100 amp or higher fuses but they are in different physical packages. Any brand that actually cares about standards stops ATC fuses at 40 amps. I think little actually only makes them upto 35 amps. When you think about the contact area from the fuse to the terminal 40 amps is lot of power for that size connection and since for 40 amp fuses probably don't blow for a few minutes at 45 amps everything needs to be able to handle 45 amps. It's just too tiny. Car Makers don't use 40 amp ATC fuses in my experience because 40 amps going through those tiny connections just isn't going to be reliable so they go to physically bigger fuse style. (Could be a car or two that uses them, but none that I've seen.) The only place I see 40 amp ATC fuses is on circuit broads and car amps where they are not packed closely with other fuses and relays.
It seems as far as flea market brands are concerned, 4000 watts max is where you start to get usable power. I got a power acoustik 10k and get over 2k at 1ohm. So expect around a quarter of what's printed on the box.
If you haven't had a subwoofer before then it can definitely seem rediculous. Actually even if you _do_ have a sub, it's still kinda crazy 😂. But the thing is, bass needs WAY more power in order to sound loud. You may be putting only ONE watt into you tweeters, but your sub will need like 100 watts to keep up with the tweeter. If you ever get the chance, hook up a tweeter to a small amplifier and crank up the volume. You can get INSANE volume out of a small tweeter with minimal wattage. Subwoofers are the complete opposite.
In the late 80s i rolled 5 amps all alpine and cd player 11 band pre-amp eq with duel separate sub control, two 50x2 into 100x2 and a 50x4 in to 100x2 and two 75x4 in to 150x4 everything at 4 ohms 2000 watts total, 1000 watts RMS 2 ten inch bazookas 2 ten inch blue thunder band pass and a full range blue thunder 12 in box in a rx-7 it was all running off a 200 amp alt. Last time it was tested SPL was 144.2.
Late 80’s they were still great products. But by the mid 90’s I remember buying a pair of 4” two way dash speakers at Walmart. I knew at that point and time that Blaupunkt had met it’s demise.
Great review, I was curious on this amp as well. It must be trying to communicate with Aliens. You should stick your spl lab on it and see if it reads the power correctly, just turn that noise filter on. 😉
I have bought 2 cheap amps and done with those. One just died plugging in the bass boost knob first day. The second started cutting in and out randomly after about a year. Thought maybe it was wiring but looked everything over changed fuses same issue. Switched to a Skar 800.1 using same wiring works great.
I'm getting the impression all of these companies like Planet Audio and Blaupunkt massively overrate their equipment because they assumed nobody would ever go to the trouble of testing it. They also know that most subs will operate just fine on less power and the car audio enthusiasts are none the wiser.
Indeed I have same amp in video just 3000 watts pushing 2 15 inch SKAR they actually sound good but I bought a Kenwood class D at best buy to begin and it burned up in a week yet $75 amp still holding strong a year later 🤷♂️
Met my wife while stationed in Germany in the early 1990’s. She had a blaupunkt in her car. That ‘was’ an outstanding head unit. Coolest feature was: when you were driving and the route you were taking was going to encounter a stau, the music would stop and it would tell you an alternate route. She told me that they had a radio tax in Germany and the tax paid for that service. Very interesting. Sucks that Blaupunkt went out of business and allows any company to use the blaupunkt name. Completely destroying the reputation that they once had.
~20yrs ago now, Blaupunkt was one of the first to do Tripath car amps. I bought one (actually 2 since I thought the first one was a dud and exchanged it) and what a POS. It sounded terrible, and had a buzzing noise both out of the unit and out the speakers.
As usual, an enlightening episode Mr. D! Geez, in my day when I first started installing full time, Blaupunkt was quite high end, at least the FM section was. I'm talking _old school_ late '70's here. i.e., German built "Berlin" model, the early 80's Jap CR3001. I had a 3001 and the _radio_ performance (with Dolby on, yes, _Dolby on_) was the best I've ever heard. The cassette section was dismal though, even with a retrofitted Concord sendust head (matched phase would not fit) in it. Got a question for all. Where I live (Silicone Valley, Ca.) I rarely, if ever for the last 15 or so years, hear a loud bumpin' car stereo on the streets. What are you hearing where you are?
I live about 40 miles ENE of Atlanta GA. Now and then I hear someone bumpin' while I'm out and about. Hopefully those who enjoy high end/high output car audio have grown more courteous toward the rest of society that don't want to hear what they like. Don't get me wrong, I love high end/high output car audio. I've had a custom system, that I installed myself, in every vehicle I've ever owned. That said, I only crank it up when and where it isn't a bother to others.
Yeah. The audio scene (auto and home) is just badge engineering for the most part. I also don't hear a lot of bangin' systems anymore. Bonus is there is a lot of older systems components for sale on marketplace and craigslist. All the cool old schools stuff I could not afford when I was in my teens.
@@wrenchpony9735 I'm surprised that you find the vintage stuff affordable. Like early BMX gear it seems, the old school audio stuff is priced for the deep pocket baby boomers who can finally afford to buy the things they used to drool about - but that are now rare and no longer produced. Remember those old round-dial Pioneer underdash units? They're fetching >500.00. I'm _still_ searching for a Fosgate pr250/2100 preamp... :)
Back around 1972 Audiovox introduced one of the first "power boosters" on the market. The AMP500B "Sound Exploder". A tiny piece of crap that sold like hotcakes for around $30-$35. It had nothing but an on-off button, and massive distortion though it claimed 40wpc. Inflation adjusted it would be over $200 today. Keep that in mind.
I ran a Proton D275 for a while in the late 80's. I bought 3 new batteries in 2 years (Pro-rated, good warranty, Sears Diehard). BUT, No one believed me.. Today, I think I might not have been crazy after all. lol :) I ended up with a separate deep cycle battery bank in the trunk with the Amplifiers, cooked one within a year. Moved my operating amps to a different brand. Rockford for the win!
Look at the fuse size on the supply to the amplifier. Times that by the 12 volts gives you the max amount of watts the unit will provid. Ie if fuse is 20amp, 20 times 12v equals 240watts
With new cars averaging 50 or so computer modules, I wouldn't risk putting this amp in one. I saw a video not too long ago where they were troubleshooting a BMW or Merc no-start and it turned out to be a faulty door handle. So putting something like this in a car like that... yikes. Big D, have you ever tested a Helix amp?
@@wal i solved that issue by never buying a modern car say after 2002 and only work trucks bar bones type issue 2500 hd and classic cars for fun driving old supra n a 280z screw new cars
@@overbuiltautomotive1299 eventually, if vehicles keep being manufactured the way they are, the only safe way to install amps will be to ground via a separate cable running directly up to the battery. The issues you describe are largely caused by voltage back feeding through the chassis ground into modules and frying them. I've seen similar things happen on chassis that were being welded on up near the dash and the ground clip was all the way on a rear framerail
@@OtherDalfite That still wouldn't be safe.. EMI/RFI doesn't care what ground you use, if it's leaky, it's leaky, and it will interfere with whatever it can reach. I have a hard time believing that car manufacturers don't harden their sensitive electronics better than that. They have MANY more things to worry about than some minor interference from an amplifier in the real world.
It's shameful compared to what these companies were way back when. Im pretty sure I remember Blaupunkt was already pretty bad in the 00s already though. Anywho...if they put these numbers on the box in the late 90s/early 00s we would be STOKED. The output is pretty awesome compared to what pretty expensive amps could do back then and can still make a lot of bass...but put the actual numbers on the box!
I had that planet audio amp on 2 alpine type r's..they bumped for about 2 weeks then amp blew..got another one lasted 5 days..had it checked out the amp was only doing 375 rms..no no to planet audio people..
I have a 4 channel version of this in my motorhome, it’s alright, it ain’t 4000w but it produces clean power for my 4 5.25” Polk DB’s on 2 channels, and 2 8” subs on the other 2.
Got a Punch 40i on a pair of Rockford Fosgate 10s never misses a beat. Its what i call a stage one setup. Adding around 100-125 db to a factory system for less than 400 bucks.
@@WeSRT4 No, this amp needs a lot more filtering than a single pole capacitive filter. It probably also radiates a fair amount though the air, too and a cap won’t do squat for that.
Be aware that Bosch sold the brand Blaupunkt to Aurelius in 2008.The license holder of the Brand is now GIP Development SARL. The license depends on location and product. In case auf car stereo and the US: Shagal Ltd., Los Angeles, USA Information about this can be found on Wikipedia, just change to the German version where a spread sheet about products, location etc. can be found.
To get 700+ watts out of a 50 dollar amp is nuts!!!! For an average metal head like myself, that's plenty of bass juice for me. It's getting a capable mid-range/high frequency amp and speakers that fills the gap.
Those fuses have a latency. They do not just instantaneously pop at 50 A Thus being able to output 4000 W peak while fused for 2000 W continuous load is not unrealistic in itself
they've gone Chinesium with the 10% THD specs, with everything. before watching, my "rule of thumb" is "always divide by 3". 2 channels claiming 200w = 33w/ch clean, at best. after watching, yup, not too dang far off with rule of thumb expectations.
This phenomena started when I was kid (we started cruising in the 70's and early 80's and damaging our hearing with high power amps, then the Black felows started in the 90's and you got this (I thought we were bad, these will blow your hearing in one sitting!!!!!) Who makes a car stereo system that runs you out of the car, I thought wse were bad?!?!?!!)...I play guitar and have 200 watt cabs in my room and this makes me look like a genuis in hearing preservation!!!!!!!
Emi likely isn't coming from inside the amp, it's totally enclosed in metal. It's possible there's a defect with your amp that's radiating emf at a high frequency from the power and ground. Something weird could be happening with the power supply switching speed.
@@wal ...I remember someone saying this about the earlier model taramps. I heard in the early days, those type of Brazilian boards were banned from competitions due to something in that nature. There is a video on this topic called taramps Witchcraft confirmed. Don't get me wrong, I could be confusing this with another issue, but if my memory serves me correctly, he was talking about taramps doing something to your electronics in the car. But what I am talking about, came from watching that video.
Back in 96, I had a 78 El Camino as my first car, Blaupunkt head unit, kicker comp speakers with a rockford punch 40 amp. Lot of the 90's stereo companies have gone down hill and not high quality they once were. Even house speakers and receivers have gone to crap
I remember 96! I had a strong Clarion amp and head with a pair of Kicker comp 12's in a huge custom box in the hatch of my CRX. That system would make you cross eyed and it was stolen TWICE in one year and recovered both times.
Wikipedia: "Blaupunkt GmbH was a German manufacturer of mostly car audio equipment. It was owned by Robert Bosch GmbH from 1933 until 1 March 2009, when it was sold to Aurelius AG of Germany. It filed for bankruptcy in late 2015[1] with liquidation proceedings completed in early 2016. The brand is now managed by GIP Development SARL of Luxembourg and is used on various product groups worldwide." And "After the 2011 take-over, Blaupunkt became a managed brand name with all production outsourced to China." In other words: Pay us for the brand and sell whatever crap you like under Blaupunkt name.
Blaupunkt GmbH was a German manufacturer of mostly car audio equipment. It was owned by Robert Bosch GmbH from 1933 until 1 March 2009, when it was sold to Aurelius AG of Germany. It filed for bankruptcy in late 2015 with liquidation proceedings completed in early 2016
Those kinda of LCD displays are VERY sensible to noise, specially high speed transients ... like actuating relays, coils ... etc. Note that rest of the dyno keep operating properly ... it is more like the LCD is the one that is suffering the issue. This kind of LCDs has it own controller chip. definitiley some high speed / high voltage transients are going there. Could be radiated EMI too, less likely.
Looking at the end of the video. If it was EMI from the SMPS the output is usually filtered and the characters displayed on the Dyno LCD might not be from the Amps output. Also, how often do you calibrate your DYNO? Who or where would you send it. I'm curious if their is a calibration procedure. I'm sure the dummy load has worn down over the years. The values and tolerance might no longer be accurate. Just a thought, good video very detailed. Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate.
Back when I was installing (Mid 90's) Blaupunkt was a reliable mid range manufacturer. Not top notch, not garbage. I guess those days are over. I would guess that they are Blaupunkt in name only (BINO?)
![Why is this 1000W $63 Amp BANNED from Amazon? [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4RRyAANKRlw/mqdefault.jpg)
I grew up in Germany in the 80s and when I got my first car at age 18; I made a dream come true and bought a brand new Blaupunkt Nashville SX straight out of the store. It cost 599.- Marks. That is at least $1.500 in 2022 Dollars. Two times the money I spent on the car. Damn was I proud. The first car stereo on the market with an automatic track skip autoreverse tape deck if I remember correctly.
It's a bit strange that they sell $49 amps under that brand now...
The name was sold years ago and they are no longer the same company
Looks like they were owned by Bosch until 2009 or so. I had an amp and a pair of their 6x9's in my old Cherokee that I picked up in the early 00's. Really decent quality at that point still, I actually transferred that amp through two other cars until a channel on it finally died in 2018 or so. Other than the EMF issues 50-1000 bucks for a 600W RMS@2ohm isn't bad at all. I would have *killed* to get that much power on my first set up at the price.
@@MEatRHIT2009 Not Blaupunkt but, I bought a $25 'DUAL' car stereo tuner/amp combo from Walmart 4 years ago and, it's held up, 25W RMS per channel. I can't remember if it's a 2 or 4 speaker unit but, what I paid for the thing, who cares, rhetorically speaking?
@@wal I wanna know who the actual manufacturers are that they license the name out to. With the spelling errors and everything this just seems like the most random Amazon garbage but with a recognizable name slapped on - the fate of every German company at some point, it seems.
Amazing that Blaupunkt, a brand with distinctive history in electronics, ended up allowing it's name be printed in such poor Chinese products.
Sold dat name
The same as Telefunken, Becker, AEG, Grundig, Merklin, Schiesser.......They are greedy scavengers, investment scum! This shit has nothing to do with German products that these companies once made.
Add RCA and Sylvania to the Chinese factory to landfill shitpile.
Blau punkt is what the customer is since the nineties.
F that.
Study your subject.
Dont trust bs.
F brand names.
Car audio is shot since the turn of the century.
Good luck
@Facist,commie,marxist its all Nazism great username - i try to tell people - that's a simple way to get it out there.
If they just advertised it as a 1000w amp for the price it would give them a better rep, and still be a good deal.
You forget Blaupunkt thinks the owners of these amps are dumb. Just like Boss, Planet audio, autotek, etc they are playing the max watt game on the box for first time buyers. False advertising and embarrassing the owners.
Took the words right out of my mouth. For $50 not bad at all
@@gjenkins1660 I sure would be happy with that amount of power for only $50
Totally! Back in the day getting a clean 600 wats on 2 ohms was unheard of for 50 bucks! Here's where I do my old man shaking fist at the cloud and say kids don't know how good they have it now!
Back in my early days of car audio they could've honestly sold it at 500w to 1000w peak. Even for $50 or even the normal $125 value it would still sell no problem all day. Being dishonest is a sure fire way to keep me well away from any products. Good reviews guys 😎🤙
Well a discerning customer should know when they’re falling into buying junk. A good amp should run you at least 500 bucks. A great amp 1,500-2,000 bucks. Anyone who believes 4000w for a hundred bucks deserves what they get.
@@SimRacingVeteran i agree that customers need to be discerning, but this doesn't mean companies should be allowed to blatantly lie about specs
@@SimRacingVeteran True.
@@eulldog Truer.
Back in the 70s their head units with a goose neck remote $1200 Canadian. Made in Germany
There was a time when Blaupunkt was available only at exclusive retailers. They made a set of honeycomb flat speakers that cost a mint back in the day - but their sound was incredible. These guys and Soundstream, whose amps were all USA made…now manufactured to a spec that only WalMart would attempt to sell.
While true, I also remember when Blaupunkt started selling in Wal-Mart in the 90s, so it's been a LONG time
At least they are at Walmart level...and not something like Wish level yet. I guess.
The old school blaupunkt was made in Germany if I’m not mistaken. I don’t recall their stuff made in the us.
@@drewdoestrucks Blaupunkt was German. The company hasn't existed since 2016. Only the name remains.
@@drewdoestrucks You are correct. Blaupunkt was German, Soundstream was USA. Sorry about my ill-written comment as it logically says they were both USA made, when they were obviously not.
Granted, it's nowhere near its rated power, but, if I spent ~$50.00 for this amp, I would be quite happy with it. That harmonic might be a high frequency superimposed on the audio signal. No problem, subwoofers have enough inductance to ignore that. If you're using this as a 'full range' amplifier, that high frequency could damage tweeters, especially piezo tweeters, unless they have resistors in series with them. That high frequency bleed through is likely the result of magnetic core saturation of the output inductor. That will only happen, at very low output impedance, where the output current exceeds the saturation current of that inductor.
You're absolutely right, to look at the fuses. That is a "dead giveaway" as to the theoretical output power of the amplifier.
I knew I’d find the one person sticking up for this amp! Car audio used to, RIGHTFULLY, be extremely expensive, thus keeping kids and losers out of it. Jesus
I don't think they are allowing this, the built in filter tops at 250Hz, with no obvious disable switch.
Its pretty hard to kill a piezo tweeter.... 🤷🏻
@@arthurkitchen8896 your type is annoying
I'm not sticking up for this amp either, buttttt if someone said "Hey, I got an amp that is guaranteed to produce 800 watts at 1ohm, and it only costs $50", I'd be all over it. You can't dispute that lol. There's amps out here for $50 that you might get 100 watts.@@arthurkitchen8896
I never get why they just don’t advertise these power outputs that you just showed us. For the price it’s pretty impressive unless I’m wrong. For $50 or $100 it’s pretty good
100% Agreed.... I am from the time a Fosgate or Kicker amp with these actual numbers cost nearly $1K
@@ralphmenta249 you taking me back to the tape deck days of bumping Warren G Regulators lol
Same thing with flashlights. I've bought several lately (because I knew the LED chip used in them was very good) for $50 on Amazon yet they were advertised at ridiculous ratings like 20,000 lumen. In reality, they're more like 4,000 lumen with is still nice for $50
It is GOING to sound like ass. I don't care how cheap it is, I wouldn't want it.
Edit: Also, I REFUSE to support a totally dishonest company.
I am NOT going to be slapped in the face by a company the second I purchase their product, which is exactly WHAT happened to anyone who purchased one.
You know what's funny even though the amp is nowhere near the power that it's rated it is more than definitely acceptable for the price getting that kind of RMS wattage for $50 is an excellent buy ! LOL
Yeh that's not bad for 49 Dollars,I had a 10 in my old Scion TC and I was only running 300 watts with a mtx audio amp and that thing bumped on the inside not so much the outside but all of my friends thought it was loud lol
@Wilson López what up Scam Fam 🤣🤣🤣🤣💩
@Wilson López LOL Scam away, that Karma will catch you slipping Player 🤣
@Wilson López well then stay on fawking topic of the video or start your own channel and promote that stuff homie!
Of course RRMS wattage is an inaccurate parameter but we all use it...
Back in the 80’s-90’s, Blaupunkt made some awesome head units
yes i remember they were up there with alpine, lambos use to have alpine back then if im not mistaken
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Hey, you do realize that Walmart will license a name and pay a third party to produce it?
Since it doesn't show up on Blaupunkt's website that's the safest thing to assume here.
I bet the 3k version with 3 of the 40 amp fuses puts out more watts then this 4k
I like that they separated the power and ground inputs with the remote turn on. The further away from each other the better. I hate when a random single strand of copper gets into the personal space of either + or _
Also if you have 2 of these amps on 2 (12") or 10" dvc subs wired to 2 or 1 ohm. You could push them well for under a hundred bucks!
have you see the lanzar vct2610
You have to try the wireless sound boks in a car audio settings please
It’s crazy to see all these brands that we used to love back in the 90s. Blau, MBQuart, PPi, Nakamichi don’t even resemble their past self. MB Quart is still somewhat decent as Maxxsonics has done an ok job with them. But these blaupunkt units? Come on!
Exactly look at pyle and hifonics now. A pair of old school bostwicks would decimate half the competition today .
Nakamichi still makes very high-end gear.
2 words: Chinese sellouts.
I grew up in the 80s in Germany and the serious competitors in our community were Blaupunkt, Clarion, Alpine and Grundig. The good Grundig stuff was sold only in Germany, though. It was too expensive to get the EMI and UL certifications for those small volume productions. Hence no export to the US.
And it's strange to see where Grundig went. They sell utter trash under that great brand now.
Fourty years ago they sold almost mil-spec highend stuff that cost an arm and a leg. Their preamplifiers from the late 70s are highly sought after now and always were.
I have an 800w 1ohm rated Nakamichi (NKSD800.1) currently clamping just over 1100w at 0.5ohm on stock electrical, haven't had a single issue with the amp in the year I've owned it
Stumbled on to this video somehow and I couldn’t turn it off. It was pretty informative and funny. The Doughboy/Ice Cube cut away was great! Last 4 days my question to my family is, “Do It Bump Doe?” LOLOLOL Good job!
They also have a 12" pioneer sub that bangs (think it's 1200w) I got it for a test speaker for building boxes and I ended up keeping it. It was $75 and it's still going 16 months later with everyday use.
Awesome 👏
This is reminiscent of the graphic equalizer/power amp units that J.C. Whitney used to sell. They offered huge power, three or four dozen band pots on a tiny box, all for $12.95.
😆 Those things, with no DC-DC converter in them, are ALL about 12 watts depending on the ohms load driven
@@davelowets aInT wHaT tHe bOx SaYs 🤣
This is exactly why I LOVE your channel you’ll give us the real deal numbers
The EMI issues brings up a concern with these cheap amps you frequently test. Adding a braided ground cable may help protect your dyno from contracting some electrically transmitted disease… Blaupunkt on your tweeter wouldn’t be too good. Sweet video as always
I may start powering Dyno with an alternative power source and use DMM to show voltage
@@wal Probably a good idea.
@@wal - Go buy a 15 volt MeanWell switching power supply. They make them that run on 125 and 250 volts for the really strong stuff. They make them from 25 watts up into the thousands of watts. Great brand and great company.
Also, where is the oscilloscope? Get a scope and show the power line for the EMI. That will show you any funky shit going on as well as high frequency parasitic outputs that will cook a woofer without it making a sound. If you have high frequency energy making it out to the speaker you can burn it up because it cannot move to cool. Try the test yourself on a full range powerful amp and a signal generator on a woofer. Smoke that bitch.
Seriously get a scope. Check the powerlines. If its backfeeding noise toward the car, Ceramic, Tantalum, and an electrolytic cap on the power input will get rid of transients and electromotive and electromagnetic interference riding on the power line from the shitty switcher in the amp.
They're giving them away at cost for a reason, I can just imagine trying to claim a warranty.
Great upload muh man =)
for reasonable listening level, it's more than powerful enough. 500W on a decent 12 will vibrate a cheap car to pieces.
Gotta be honest for 50 bucks it's a bargain. Back in the day you would pay thousands for a a 1k amp
As always they need to get the packaging right.
I sitting here looking at a Phoenix Gold MS250 on my shelf from the early 90's that I'm pretty sure was more than $500 in todays dollars and probably not good for more than a couple hundred watts on a good day.
$1 a watt, clamped 20k on my Crossfire 16k, there's no way I would spend 20k on an amp, really amazing how cheap it is now, paid $1200 for my Memphis Bell, in 2002
My ZPA 0.5 retailed for $1350 in 1999. Pretty much exactly at $1/watt like it was for ages. The inflation calculator says that's $2300 in 2022 money, 46 Blaupunkt amps. 🤣
JL 1000/1 $1000 back in the day. Wow $50!!!!!
They're not $50 today, price is up to $119-$139.
I was too young to really recall, but my brother would always say Blaupunkt made some of the best sounding head units back in the 80's-90's. Sad to see what theyve become now. Still.. thats useful power output despite it not being close to rated.
They still make decent stuff for vw/audi group cars but their aftermarket stuff is pretty low grade anymore
@@79huddy I think it's still Bosch that's making the stuff for vw/audi but they sold the rights to the consumer market to some zombie brand company. I remember seeing their units suddenly being just re-branded white box crap that you could buy cheaper under less names.
I remember listening to the speakers at an electronic store and wanting the Blaupunkt (BluePoint) speakers because they just plain sounded better than anything else. I wish I could find 4 of those 6.5 inch three ways from back in the late 80's early 90's I saw. If I found them I would certainly buy them. They also did not have foam surround. They had a gummy wetted wrinkled cloth edge surround with a high density paper cone. I always worry about NOS speakers if they are foam surround from that vintage because the foam disintegrates and you are left with a shitty mess to fix. The replacement cones and coils are not always as good of quality as the ones made back then. Its sad but many things made today are just plain shit.
The kenwood amp was the best amp i ever owned. It never overheated or got really hot. It pushed two 10 in subs and and two 8's . No issurs. Was loud and this was back in the 90's
👌😬👍
I had a Kenwood PSX400M back in the day.... Decent amp. 👍
I'm sure it was circuit city's finest, the kenwood 921
Thanks for the test, BigD. Always a pleasure.
Tfwac
@@wal - Al Gorithm likes those comments. Gotta keep Al happy.😂
I'm going to show my age: every time I see or hear "Blaupunkt" I instantly remember the scene from Top Secret! where Hillary tells Nick "I was studying Black History at the University of Blaupunkt".
😜
I prefer MacGruber walking all over the place with his removable Blaupunkt lol
@Budget Gem or Budget Bust "my damn stereo. That's a Blaupunkt, you owe me BLAUPUNKT!!" LMFAO 😆 🤣 😂
@@bigblank69 mcgruber is criminally underated.
You describe your testing the best I've witnessed on RUclips big D
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Power Acoustik 2500D is still the best bang for the buck amp for less than $100. I've had mine at 1ohm for a year now.
Bid D Wiz should do a video on this amp. How much power do you think at 1 ohm?
Nah, its still a shite amp
Dom big d has already done a video on that amp the power acoustik 2500 d
@@garyv6442 but he didn't bench it at 1 ohm
@@bugzycapone Because it would have blown up...
I love love love your videos. I've learned so much and you do a great job at the narrative. Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@wal, if you can, dyno a Taramp MD 8000.1 2ohm please. Thanks
I've bought 18 of these so far. Pair them with a set of subs to sell or resell for double my money.
Have you noticed the EMI issue? Rob and I both have the same problem
Not that I've encountered
You are the best testing the amps and expose the good and bad 👏👏👏 thank you Willis to audio
Honestly though for $50 it ain't bad! I have a question though. What's the best way to set the amp gain if you don't have any good info on the amp or the head unit?
3/4
I’d set to 1/2
Use an oscilloscope for the head unit and amp. If you don’t have that, set your head into at 3/4 of its max volume. Then play a song you know well or trustworthy source for test tones and tune the amp gain by ear
@@devinyoung1338 Thanks! That's pretty much what I did I was just hoping there was a better way. I don't have an oscilloscope unfortunately... I've wanted one for a long time just never had a good enough reason to spend the money on it.
I use my Osciloscopes for everything... I have since I started in 1992
If I was in a pinch. I would buy this for 50$ for sure
After almost 3 years I still have a ignite audio "6000w" mono
Ive clamped it doing around 1000w clean (just like your videos shown)
👌😬👍
Lot of people don't realize you can do alot with 1000 real watts if you done right.
For sure. 1000w for $50 is mind blowing coming from someone who started building systems in the 90s when power was $1/watt even for "generic" brands.
Been running 1200 clean real rms watts for years. It all depends what you do with it. Had 4 10s and a 12 in a car was amazing. Had 4 10s in another one and it sucked. Now 2 10s and a 15 on 1200 rms is amazing.
I miss my old setup. I had just 1 10" dual cone woofer. I had it wired in series to pull 1 ohm from my Kenwood amp pushing 1000 watt. That little woofer pumped. I loved it.
Umm
I remember back in the 80s 90s.Blaupunk used to be fitted to high end Mercedes cars.They were very expensive ICE.But all of a sudden they became cheap middle of the road products and great value for money.
Name has been sold a few times over the years
@@wal when you gonna test the kicker key 4 channel amp.Its a little Gem.
Dude back in the day I would have drooled over this and had 4 of them in the back of my mom's taurus wagon.
I wish I could give an extra thumbs up just for you featuring Cutco knives!
Those things ROCK harder than the Amp you tested. 😎
LMAO Cutco knives are horrendous especially for the price you pay. The steel is crap, hardly takes a good edge and the straight edged blades dull extremely quickly
@@MEatRHIT2009 oh my God! What the hell are you even talking about!?
Look, I know Cutco has it's issues in certain areas of their marketing plan, but name a brand that gives you more bang for your buck.....I'll wait.
@@seanperdue232 Both Henckels and Wusthof have lines that are much better than Cutco.
@@MEatRHIT2009 I can agree with that, but like I said for the money Cutco can't be beat.
@@seanperdue232 and made in the USA with a lifetime warranty (Cutco). Ofc these are the top 3 brands though
50 bucks for a 1000 watt amp.....I'm gonna snatch a few up . That way I can burn them up and not care.
Put one on each subwoofer and you will have yourself something.
Man, random video for me, getting major flashbacks to the junk manuals included with all the amps I had as a teenager in the 90s. Profile California series was an iconic (in a bad way) model of that era.
It got my 1ohm guess at 4ohm, I'm already impressed
Three 50 amp ATC fuses are worth $50. I’ve been around this stuff for 30+ years and have never came across anything greater than a 40 amp.
@CRACKED HEAD I've got a TON of these ATC style 50 amp fuses... How many you willing to buy? I'll sell them to you $5 each! That should be a steal of a deal for ya.
lol you can get a 10 pack of 50 amp atc fuses for under $2 on eBay. you wont see them in stores because nobody needs them for their vehicles.
@@frostbite1991 I get it. What I meant is that I’ve never come across a 12volt device that used 50 amp ATC fuses. 40’s have become common enough, but there are better choices out there for fusing.
They could put 10, 60A fuses in it, it still only hit 800 out of 4000 watts. 14.4x150=2160. 800/14.4=55. Seems like they could have used 1, 60A available at auto zone for $4.99.
People don't seam to get it. 50 AMPS is too much for the ATC/ATO fuse to physically handle. If you google for a little or bussman brand ATC/ATO 50 AMP fuse you won't find any, you'll find MAXI fuses which are bigger in physical size. If a brand makes 50 amp fuses. I'd be suspect of the quality of any of their fuses. Many Cars do have 100 amp or higher fuses but they are in different physical packages. Any brand that actually cares about standards stops ATC fuses at 40 amps. I think little actually only makes them upto 35 amps. When you think about the contact area from the fuse to the terminal 40 amps is lot of power for that size connection and since for 40 amp fuses probably don't blow for a few minutes at 45 amps everything needs to be able to handle 45 amps. It's just too tiny. Car Makers don't use 40 amp ATC fuses in my experience because 40 amps going through those tiny connections just isn't going to be reliable so they go to physically bigger fuse style. (Could be a car or two that uses them, but none that I've seen.) The only place I see 40 amp ATC fuses is on circuit broads and car amps where they are not packed closely with other fuses and relays.
Cutco knives are awesome!! My mom bought the whole knife block set from me when I used to sell those... You should do a review on those.
Put them on the dyno? 🤔
It seems as far as flea market brands are concerned, 4000 watts max is where you start to get usable power. I got a power acoustik 10k and get over 2k at 1ohm. So expect around a quarter of what's printed on the box.
Blaupukt was super high dollar high quality car audio electronics back in the day that used to be what they put in Porsches.
They were decent, not sure I’d agree high end. But definitely MUCH better
I guess I don't know enough about this, but I can't even imagine putting 4 kW of sonic energy into my ears in an enclosed space.
If you haven't had a subwoofer before then it can definitely seem rediculous. Actually even if you _do_ have a sub, it's still kinda crazy 😂. But the thing is, bass needs WAY more power in order to sound loud. You may be putting only ONE watt into you tweeters, but your sub will need like 100 watts to keep up with the tweeter. If you ever get the chance, hook up a tweeter to a small amplifier and crank up the volume. You can get INSANE volume out of a small tweeter with minimal wattage. Subwoofers are the complete opposite.
1000w for $50 is a steal! I could buy 6 of these vs my 1500.1
I dare you to sell your 1500.1 and buy 6 of these.... I double dog dare you..
In the late 80s i rolled 5 amps all alpine and cd player 11 band pre-amp eq with duel separate sub control, two 50x2 into 100x2 and a 50x4 in to 100x2 and two 75x4 in to 150x4 everything at 4 ohms 2000 watts total, 1000 watts RMS 2 ten inch bazookas 2 ten inch blue thunder band pass and a full range blue thunder 12 in box in a rx-7 it was all running off a 200 amp alt. Last time it was tested SPL was 144.2.
👌😬👍
Late 80’s they were still great products. But by the mid 90’s I remember buying a pair of 4” two way dash speakers at Walmart. I knew at that point and time that Blaupunkt had met it’s demise.
True
If the budget baller finds it for $50 I say go ahead and try it, but anything above that I’d probably pass. Great video as always!
Just watch out fo dose EMI issues 😮
I wouldn't waste my $50 on this junk. I would just buy a real amp.
Great review, I was curious on this amp as well. It must be trying to communicate with Aliens. You should stick your spl lab on it and see if it reads the power correctly, just turn that noise filter on. 😉
Updated bench coming this summer!
I have bought 2 cheap amps and done with those. One just died plugging in the bass boost knob first day. The second started cutting in and out randomly after about a year. Thought maybe it was wiring but looked everything over changed fuses same issue. Switched to a Skar 800.1 using same wiring works great.
Taking a chance with ultra budged stuff
I installed competition stereos 30 years ago. It's amusing to see all the new brands and what happened to old brands.
I'm getting the impression all of these companies like Planet Audio and Blaupunkt massively overrate their equipment because they assumed nobody would ever go to the trouble of testing it. They also know that most subs will operate just fine on less power and the car audio enthusiasts are none the wiser.
they should be sued! for fault info! those kind numbers shouldn't nvr exist or item should even be available for the craps of lies...
Darn it with the EMI! For under 60$ tho, I'd have no problem trying one in an old enough to be carbureted vehicle😅
Hey leave the classics out of this, that’s what LS swaps are for
@@trentdawg2832 9 times out of 10, I'll agree with ya👍
Awhile back I bought a sub amp box all in one combo from Blaupunkt the thing slapped sounded really good and held up really nice.
That’s awesome 👏
@@wal So is your video 👏
Indeed I have same amp in video just 3000 watts pushing 2 15 inch SKAR they actually sound good but I bought a Kenwood class D at best buy to begin and it burned up in a week yet $75 amp still holding strong a year later 🤷♂️
Met my wife while stationed in Germany in the early 1990’s. She had a blaupunkt in her car. That ‘was’ an outstanding head unit. Coolest feature was: when you were driving and the route you were taking was going to encounter a stau, the music would stop and it would tell you an alternate route. She told me that they had a radio tax in Germany and the tax paid for that service. Very interesting. Sucks that Blaupunkt went out of business and allows any company to use the blaupunkt name. Completely destroying the reputation that they once had.
Yeah once you sell out you have no control of how the name is used. Remember seeing Polaroid DVD players at Walmart?
I don’t think they meant to add the extra zero on the wattage 😂😂😂. More like 400 watts max in the safe zone lol
🤣👍
My thoughts, exactly. Asian editing at it's finest. "All your bases belong to us."
~20yrs ago now, Blaupunkt was one of the first to do Tripath car amps. I bought one (actually 2 since I thought the first one was a dud and exchanged it) and what a POS. It sounded terrible, and had a buzzing noise both out of the unit and out the speakers.
Oh dang
Tripath was a massive failure due to a flawed chipset design. I consulted on a few of these designs back in the day and they were mostly noisy junk.
@@wal what about if you drive or input more power with a strong 150 or 200 watt radio what will it put out
@@spankthemonkey3437 The same...
@@davelowets it should put out more power it should get to a point where the input audio to amp is being overdriven
The "Lying to ya. Lying to ya. Lying to ya." Kills me every time.
👌😬👍
This amp is what i need i only need 500 rms but priced when up
I got a blaupunkt double din radio
I really like the sound quality
1404 watts for 50 bucks...Sounds like a good deal to me.
As usual, an enlightening episode Mr. D! Geez, in my day when I first started installing full time, Blaupunkt was quite high end, at least the FM section was. I'm talking _old school_ late '70's here. i.e., German built "Berlin" model, the early 80's Jap CR3001. I had a 3001 and the _radio_ performance (with Dolby on, yes, _Dolby on_) was the best I've ever heard.
The cassette section was dismal though, even with a retrofitted Concord sendust head (matched phase would not fit) in it. Got a question for all. Where I live (Silicone Valley, Ca.) I rarely, if ever for the last 15 or so years, hear a loud bumpin' car stereo on the streets. What are you hearing where you are?
I live about 40 miles ENE of Atlanta GA. Now and then I hear someone bumpin' while I'm out and about. Hopefully those who enjoy high end/high output car audio have grown more courteous toward the rest of society that don't want to hear what they like. Don't get me wrong, I love high end/high output car audio. I've had a custom system, that I installed myself, in every vehicle I've ever owned. That said, I only crank it up when and where it isn't a bother to others.
Yeah. The audio scene (auto and home) is just badge engineering for the most part.
I also don't hear a lot of bangin' systems anymore. Bonus is there is a lot of older systems components for sale on marketplace and craigslist. All the cool old schools stuff I could not afford when I was in my teens.
@@wrenchpony9735 I'm surprised that you find the vintage stuff affordable. Like early BMX gear it seems, the old school audio stuff is priced for the deep pocket baby boomers who can finally afford to buy the things they used to drool about - but that are now rare and no longer produced. Remember those old round-dial Pioneer underdash units? They're fetching >500.00. I'm _still_ searching for a Fosgate pr250/2100 preamp... :)
My harley lol! 2 amps 8 speakers
Loud ass car rattling shit in the DMV. The kind you don't want to hear when sitting in your car at a light.
Back around 1972 Audiovox introduced one of the first "power boosters" on the market. The AMP500B "Sound Exploder". A tiny piece of crap that sold like hotcakes for around $30-$35. It had nothing but an on-off button, and massive distortion though it claimed 40wpc. Inflation adjusted it would be over $200 today. Keep that in mind.
I have one! Bought it mainly for the box art
I had a Craig PowerPlay V505 Amp/Eq combo back in the 80s. Wasn't bad for the time.
I ran a Proton D275 for a while in the late 80's. I bought 3 new batteries in 2 years (Pro-rated, good warranty, Sears Diehard). BUT, No one believed me.. Today, I think I might not have been crazy after all. lol :) I ended up with a separate deep cycle battery bank in the trunk with the Amplifiers, cooked one within a year. Moved my operating amps to a different brand. Rockford for the win!
Look at the fuse size on the supply to the amplifier. Times that by the 12 volts gives you the max amount of watts the unit will provid. Ie if fuse is 20amp, 20 times 12v equals 240watts
With new cars averaging 50 or so computer modules, I wouldn't risk putting this amp in one. I saw a video not too long ago where they were troubleshooting a BMW or Merc no-start and it turned out to be a faulty door handle. So putting something like this in a car like that... yikes.
Big D, have you ever tested a Helix amp?
Agreed!
@@wal i solved that issue by never buying a modern car say after 2002 and only work trucks bar bones type issue 2500 hd and classic cars for fun driving old supra n a 280z screw new cars
@@overbuiltautomotive1299 eventually, if vehicles keep being manufactured the way they are, the only safe way to install amps will be to ground via a separate cable running directly up to the battery.
The issues you describe are largely caused by voltage back feeding through the chassis ground into modules and frying them. I've seen similar things happen on chassis that were being welded on up near the dash and the ground clip was all the way on a rear framerail
@@OtherDalfite That still wouldn't be safe.. EMI/RFI doesn't care what ground you use, if it's leaky, it's leaky, and it will interfere with whatever it can reach. I have a hard time believing that car manufacturers don't harden their sensitive electronics better than that. They have MANY more things to worry about than some minor interference from an amplifier in the real world.
Dude that blue paint in the background looks amazing, beautiful.
37 Ford 😬
@@wal absolutely gorgeous! Great color choice turned out so pure
that intro when he says lying to ya, just reverbs in my head lol
It's shameful compared to what these companies were way back when. Im pretty sure I remember Blaupunkt was already pretty bad in the 00s already though. Anywho...if they put these numbers on the box in the late 90s/early 00s we would be STOKED. The output is pretty awesome compared to what pretty expensive amps could do back then and can still make a lot of bass...but put the actual numbers on the box!
Reminds me of the planet audio 4,000w from back in the day but worst lol
About the same power as the Boss 4k, but in this case I’d go for the Boss
I had that planet audio amp on 2 alpine type r's..they bumped for about 2 weeks then amp blew..got another one lasted 5 days..had it checked out the amp was only doing 375 rms..no no to planet audio people..
I remember Blaupunkt being top notch quality in the late 90s :(
I have a 4 channel version of this in my motorhome, it’s alright, it ain’t 4000w but it produces clean power for my 4 5.25” Polk DB’s on 2 channels, and 2 8” subs on the other 2.
👌😬👍
Used to be a quality company
I was just commenting this. They were solid, just not exciting.
Now just a name
As soon as you see the fuses you know. Just multiply the total amps of the fuses by 10 and 95% of the time you'll know what the amp can do for power.
Multiply by 10, then derate by at least 10-15%
Some amps have fake fuses
Got a Punch 40i on a pair of Rockford Fosgate 10s never misses a beat. Its what i call a stage one setup. Adding around 100-125 db to a factory system for less than 400 bucks.
👍
Two of these for my car would be great.. not a massive bass head but they'd do what I need. And they look small too.
I think a capacitor would eliminate any weird effects to your electrical system.
Generally speaking a capacitor just adds more load to your electrical system.
That IS a joke, right?
@@csj9619 actually speaking he is right, every capacitor has a leakage, so yeah, 20mA is still a load
@@Thezuule1 It will smooth out voltage drops and keep the amp from introducing weird interference back into the vehicle's electrical system.
@@WeSRT4 No, this amp needs a lot more filtering than a single pole capacitive filter. It probably also radiates a fair amount though the air, too and a cap won’t do squat for that.
That's criminal...
This is why I always used Alpine and JL Audio when I was into car audio.
Be aware that Bosch sold the brand Blaupunkt to Aurelius in 2008.The license holder of the Brand is now GIP Development SARL. The license depends on location and product. In case auf car stereo and the US: Shagal Ltd., Los Angeles, USA
Information about this can be found on Wikipedia, just change to the German version where a spread sheet about products, location etc. can be found.
If you can find it at $50 🤷♂️ might be worth it. Not my bag of watts🤣
Crazy cheap at fitty
To get 700+ watts out of a 50 dollar amp is nuts!!!!
For an average metal head like myself, that's plenty of bass juice for me.
It's getting a capable mid-range/high frequency amp and speakers that fills the gap.
I remember when Blaupunkt was in crutchfield and was like the top rated head units and had a name for each one.
Back in the day
Those fuses have a latency. They do not just instantaneously pop at 50 A
Thus being able to output 4000 W peak while fused for 2000 W continuous load is not unrealistic in itself
First time EVER SEEING A 50 AMP FUSE IN THAT STYLE BLAU-JUNKT... FTW
they've gone Chinesium with the 10% THD specs, with everything.
before watching, my "rule of thumb" is "always divide by 3".
2 channels claiming 200w = 33w/ch clean, at best.
after watching, yup, not too dang far off with rule of thumb expectations.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The video didn't glitch anymore, Thanks!
This phenomena started when I was kid (we started cruising in the 70's and early 80's and damaging our hearing with high power amps, then the Black felows started in the 90's and you got this (I thought we were bad, these will blow your hearing in one sitting!!!!!) Who makes a car stereo system that runs you out of the car, I thought wse were bad?!?!?!!)...I play guitar and have 200 watt cabs in my room and this makes me look like a genuis in hearing preservation!!!!!!!
great video, honestly when on sale I dont think this can be beat for the money
Emi likely isn't coming from inside the amp, it's totally enclosed in metal. It's possible there's a defect with your amp that's radiating emf at a high frequency from the power and ground. Something weird could be happening with the power supply switching speed.
I asked former head engineer at Rockford Fosgate and he is the one who referenced EMI
@@wal ...I remember someone saying this about the earlier model taramps. I heard in the early days, those type of Brazilian boards were banned from competitions due to something in that nature. There is a video on this topic called taramps Witchcraft confirmed. Don't get me wrong, I could be confusing this with another issue, but if my memory serves me correctly, he was talking about taramps doing something to your electronics in the car. But what I am talking about, came from watching that video.
you kicker samples shook my house!
Back in 96, I had a 78 El Camino as my first car, Blaupunkt head unit, kicker comp speakers with a rockford punch 40 amp. Lot of the 90's stereo companies have gone down hill and not high quality they once were. Even house speakers and receivers have gone to crap
I remember 96! I had a strong Clarion amp and head with a pair of Kicker comp 12's in a huge custom box in the hatch of my CRX. That system would make you cross eyed and it was stolen TWICE in one year and recovered both times.
Wikipedia: "Blaupunkt GmbH was a German manufacturer of mostly car audio equipment. It was owned by Robert Bosch GmbH from 1933 until 1 March 2009, when it was sold to Aurelius AG of Germany. It filed for bankruptcy in late 2015[1] with liquidation proceedings completed in early 2016. The brand is now managed by GIP Development SARL of Luxembourg and is used on various product groups worldwide." And "After the 2011 take-over, Blaupunkt became a managed brand name with all production outsourced to China."
In other words: Pay us for the brand and sell whatever crap you like under Blaupunkt name.
Blaupunkt GmbH was a German manufacturer of mostly car audio equipment. It was owned by Robert Bosch GmbH from 1933 until 1 March 2009, when it was sold to Aurelius AG of Germany. It filed for bankruptcy in late 2015 with liquidation proceedings completed in early 2016
Those kinda of LCD displays are VERY sensible to noise, specially high speed transients ... like actuating relays, coils ... etc. Note that rest of the dyno keep operating properly ... it is more like the LCD is the one that is suffering the issue. This kind of LCDs has it own controller chip. definitiley some high speed / high voltage transients are going there. Could be radiated EMI too, less likely.
I paid more than that for the 3000 watt on amazon! They got me, but the amp sounds good! Our walmart doesn't have those!
I got same 3000 watt on Amazon pushing 2 15 inch SKAR they sound very good and amp still working a year later
@@datcrazywhiteboy6205 💯!!
Originally bought a Kenwood class D for $300 that burned up within a week
I used to love this Brand in the 80s
Looking at the end of the video. If it was EMI from the SMPS the output is usually filtered and the characters displayed on the Dyno LCD might not be from the Amps output. Also, how often do you calibrate your DYNO? Who or where would you send it. I'm curious if their is a calibration procedure. I'm sure the dummy load has worn down over the years. The values and tolerance might no longer be accurate. Just a thought, good video very detailed. Thanks for taking the time to demonstrate.
that dyno is crap straight out the factory...it underates always at least 30%!!! at least
Swear I remember hearing a line in robocop about the bad guy promising one of his cronies an SUX-6000 and a blaupunkt
Back in the early days , Blaupunkt wasn't to bad , they have been in the game for a long time , nice video big d!!
Amp buyer: whats the total harmonic distortion?
Blaupunkt: Yes
Back when I was installing (Mid 90's) Blaupunkt was a reliable mid range manufacturer. Not top notch, not garbage. I guess those days are over. I would guess that they are Blaupunkt in name only (BINO?)
Blaupunkt had some really good stuff back in the 90's.
The real Blaupunkt dosnt exist anymore they went bankrupt in 2016. This is just china stuff using the name.
30 years ago we used to know what brands performed, we never could trust manufactures rating
For the most part