No 6.4 powerstroke? I mean, I like the 6.0 but I acknowledge it's problems. But wouldn't you say the 6.4 is worse and deserves a spot here? I find some people like myself find some saving grace with the 6.0 if you give them a lot of tender love and care. I don't see many people saying that about the 6.4. But I am newer to the diesel world so perhaps I am full of it. Loved the video!
Yea i was going to say, the 6.0 isn't a bad engine, if you take care of it and are not an ignorant owner. You need to take it to a 6.0 specialist mechanic. It's like a bmw, you don't take it to canadian tire to have engine work done.
But the 6.4, there's no saving that motor. It will however run for about 200k before you'll end up replacing the whole engine. Most 6.0 trucks are still running the original block and heads
Oddly enough, the 3V 5.4 Triton engines actually brought a whole new spark plug issue with extended reach spark plug tips that frequently seize in place and break inside the cylinder head, requiring a special tool that breaks what's left and pulls it out. It remains the only engine-specific tool that the auto parts store I manage keeps on the wall behind the counter, because it's not a question of "if." 🤣
I actually have a way to remove those with no issues. Have 8 cups with brake fluid marvel and kroil mixed in said cups run engine to normal temp shut down pull coils pour mixture in each cylinder wait 20 min remove plugs.
The 3.6 V6 in many GM cars from the mid 2000's was a complete trash. Mine in CTS crapped out after 60K miles, burning a quart of oil every few hundred miles.
Have you seen the starter though? It's stupidly overbuilt. They did that on purpose knowing it's a bitch to replace and maintenance stats show that they almost never fail.
I had to do this back when I was a teenager with a Haynes manual. I think equally frustrating was the water pump and it’s special tool….. busted some knuckles when it slipped off
The starter makes for a tidy package. I did the headbolt upgrade on my Pontiac bonneville. Once that is done, it’s a great engine. The moron that signed off on fine threads on the headbolt studs needs kicked in the junk.
The 3VZE Toyota had massive head gasket failures with the very small sealing area at the rear of the block . If there was a half an inch of sealing area between the cylinder and the coolant passage. I have owned and machine shop for over 30 years. We did tons of things for the Toyota dealers, decking the heads and the blocks, but still nothing worked. The paper gasket would be soaking up the coolant in the small half inch area, and would separate from the steel fire ring, and thus, a consistent failure. The real issue is head shift, just like on the 6.0L Ford diesel. The 6.0 just did not have enough clamping load for the high compression, and if you messed with a tuner, your heads were instantly warped .007" I cut hundreds of these heads and never had one warped worse than .010" . The Toyota heads were also moving and that movement was accelerating the deterioration of the paper gasket in that small area. Toyota finally went to FelPro and asked them if they could come up with a possible solution. They created the MLS gasket. Sealant on the head side to adhere to the aluminum, sealant on the block side to adhere to the cast block, and a plate in the middle that allowed for head shift yet continued to seal, since there was no paper to weaken and tear. We were told all of this at a Fel Pro seminar back in the 90's.
I work on a lot of Triton motors . Little tip. If it throws a spark plug , it likely has a vaccum leak somewhere likely at the PCV tube . That vaccum leak causes pinging on hard accelerations which is when they spit the plug. If you spit a plug , smoke test your intake system.
As someone that has worked on a few engines over the past 20 years. Shitting sparkplugs was not a thing under any condition ever prior to Ford, a true moment in engineering history
The 2.2 liter Mopar is a great engine. The only problem with them is the factory turbo head gaskets. Replace the head bolts and gasket with the Mopar Performance parts and they are bulletproof. The bottom end is reminiscent of the Mopar RB engines. I have run over double the factory boost through multiple 2.2 engines and they keep on going.
Ya this guy is Baked to say a 2.2 is a crap engine. They are durable as hell. I agree with most of what's he's said, but he's way off the mark about the 2.2 L Chrysler.
@@oldironguy I agree. Of course, tons of people bought 2.2 powered cars because they were inexpensive. Inexpensive vehicles aren't typically maintained like one would maintain a BMW. When a vehicle has been neglected or beat on and it has issues, it's easy to blame the car instead of yourself. I think that is why 2.2 turbo cars have a bad rap.
That is a nightmare from the factory. But if you bullet proof it, it is amazing. Unfortunately, not many know what that is and how to do it. Work has one. It seemed it was dying really early, before 150 thousand miles. One of the day shift mechanics did what he called a bullet proofing on it. It was like a new truck. Today, it has 388,000 miles on it and still hauling large loads in big trailers. After the bullet proofing, all we have done to it are valve cover gaskets, a starter about five years ago, and a ECM wiring harness last year.
@@terrificspokesman7416 Stock, the 6.0 is slightly worse than the 6.4, but not by much. It is amazing how trucks so close to dying get the bullet proofing and they revive like new. The issue is, after bulletpfoofing, some regions will not pass them after inspection. Here, we are lucky. There is no regional inspection.
@@indridcold8433 I’m sorry to be so ignorant, I have a 1986 Firebird with original 305 with carburetor, what do you mean by “bulletproofing an engine?”
In the end they perfected the silicon-aluminum bore alloy and reduced oil burning to a minimum. Millions of people use lawn mowers, snow blowers, pumps, generators, and cement mixers with plain aluminum cylinders.
That engine usually failed because of lack of lube. Everything leaked oil back then and starving any overhead cam motor was a recipe for quick failure.
The 6.0 and 6.4 ford engines keep me employed at the reman shop. Next would be the 13L Navistar when we do those you can't mill it because there is no extra room to do so for the timing chain and also the aluminum cam caps on the cast iron block is also another brilliant design.
Blame MAN for the Navistar 13 Liter. As far as I can recall, that's a rebadged MAN D2676LF engine which I have heard has a lot of issues from where I live. Further models have actually shifted to the Scania DC13 which so far on feedback, is a bit more reliable than MAN since Scania, MAN, and Navistar are currently under the TRATON group.
There are many engines that cannot remain reliable at above factory power and that does not make them bad engines, just not hotrod engines. The 6.0 might be a bad engine for other reasons, but no hotrodding is not by itself a legitimate reason to classify an engine as bad.
I've a van with the 6.0 and it was a catastrophe. Sold it after the second engine. I needed something reliable, not something I wasn't sure if it would needed to be towed to the client house.
I worked as a fleet mechanic for Amerco aka Uhaul and dealt with the Triton v10s and trying to send spark plugs into orbit is one of many issues! It wasn’t uncommon for them to completely fail around 60k miles, The exhaust manifolds/ donut gaskets leaking were so common that we changed them almost as often as the oil and you were guaranteed on having half the studs break, no matter how carefully you attempted to remove them! I got so good at welding nuts onto studs that had broken off down in the block, I actually passed the welding test for company I’m with now as a welder 🤣 I’d only had basic experience prior to uhaul! Sometimes bad things can turn into something good!
180k is not a milestone to brag about, lol. If someone isn't getting 300k out of an engine they took care of and maintenanced, then it's nothing to brag about...
@@sethdover4999 Hmmm...My mom couldn't even get 75k miles out of her 1985 Toyota Camry before it started nickeling and diming her each week. Every Toyota dealer in the area couldn't even fix that shit. She ended up selling it to a local mechanic. She then bought a Saturn LS which we still have to this day.
@@matrox Before the 2000s I wouldn't have made my statement, and would've agreed with you completely. But somewhere along that period, to present day, the Japanese products became better than the domestic. There was a time you couldn't have convinced me you could do better than Ford or Chevy in the old days. Now, I wouldn't even consider buying domestic...
@@matrox Well, that isn't easy to do. GM has the majority of its stock controlled by foreign investors (Chinese), so where are the parts coming from? You might want a Mazda from Huntsville, Alabama or perhaps a Honda from East Liberty or Marysville Ohio. You might prefer a Nissan, though, from Smyrna Tennessee.Chrysler is a part of Stellantis, an automotive conglomerate based in The Netherlands. Stellantis bought out Fiat-Crysler some time ago. Just being American assembled doesn't mean any cars truly "American made". Last I knew of, Honda Civic was not only made in America, but had the largest number of American made components. Don't want foreign? Honda Civic seems to be the go-to car for you.
I had a Chrysler turbo 2.2 that had over 200,000 miles when I got rid of it and it was still on the original clutch. Change the oil when recommended and change filter every change and that car was dead reliable and quite fast for the time. My pick for the worse engine would be the aluminum block aluminum head 4 cylinder in the early Vegas. Many were already burning a quart of oil before 50,000 miles. Unlike most alum block engines the pistons road against the block and not steel liners. On the highway the smell of burning oil told you a Vega was up ahead.
The Chevy Vega engine with an aluminum block (with siliconized bore) and an overhead cam cast iron head. Poor cooling system led to blown headgaskets and warped blocks.
A well respected engine builder who destroked & hot rodded Vega engines told me he had never seen a warped block Vega engine packing the correct strength antifreeze. We now know today that proper coolant strength is critical in ALL aluminum engines.
@@wymple09 The main issue was that they would CRACK THE HEAD most of the time around 50,000 miles. NOT warped blocks or head gasket issues. GM called it the "50,000 mile engine" and it lived DOWN to that name. Mine didn't even make it to 50,000 (head crack around 47,000) - and yes, I DID keep the antifreeze at correct strength.
@@wymple09 Type of coolant is irrelevant!! Keeping it in the engine IS! Cylinders sinking down & losing the HG's seal because of that, was the main problem IIRC.
I have to call you out on calling the 2.2 liter Chrysler a Turd! You probably weren't even born till after they stopped production. The engine and the K car literally saved Chrysler Corporation! The biggest issue they had wasn't even uncommon in that time period for 4 cylinder American and Japanese Engines! Ask any decent mechanic from the era and they will tell you summer was known as head gasket season! It was very common for Toyota head gaskets to pop as well! Roll came out with a better 2.2 head gasket. Those that raced them would O ring them! They would put so much boost to them the head bolts would stretch! That gets to another issue many and I mean many Mustangs, Camaro's and even Grand Nationals lost to the little 2.2 Turbo. I drove a 2.2 liter K car as a cab. I was a major doubter of them and heard the head gasket complaints before driving one. The Company absolutely loved them and would run them past 350,000 miles. Cheap to buy, cheap to repair, easy to find parts for then and all of us drivers loved them! Great fuel mileage compared to the Ex cop cars! Much better turning radius and surprisingly comfortable to spend a 12 hour shift in!
I wish that was true of this 03' deville I have. Reservoir cap failed, overheated, blew both head gaskets. Now the only way it will run is if you drain the cooling system then it will start otherwise the cylinders inhale so much coolant it hydrolocks. I hate it, I'm about to scrap it.
@@donnycummings491 That was your fault. '03 Northstars are excellent engines. You overheated it and ruined it. Your fault. Radiator caps fail sometimes regardless of your engine - I've replaced many on vehicles when they started to go.
Those were very well made cars, and the engine was solid. It was the pre-2000 Northstars that gave GM a bad name. Your car does have the 4T80E transmission with a known TCC issue though. Should you run into that just ignore it. It doesn't affect reliability.
Worked at toyota dealer in late 90's. The 3.0 had a recall on headgasket. Often the recall replaced entire top end and a few complete engines. Based on what remember back then it was a headgasket specific issue that led to destruction of other parts when left unchecked.
I have a 1995 4runner, 3.0, Having various issues now. Is there any way to find out if the recall could possibly still apply , or, what would you suggest , short of the junkyard ??
I enjoyed the video. Every auto manufacturer always has they’re fair share of failures. Surprised the Cadillac 4.1 didn’t make it on the list. You should do a part 2
I have my Dads 83 Eldorado. It has the notorious HT 4100. At 40 years old now, and 167.000 miles, its never had any issues . Granted its recieved excellent care, 4000 mile oil changes or every 6 months, which is the norm, and coolant changes every 2 years with the coolant tabs that are mandatory. They truly are beautiful cars, and ride and drive so nice.
@@johnfranklin5277 thats awesome you have yourself a unicorn of a 4100. Keep giving it the same care. Makes me wonder how many 4100s failed due to not keeping up with maintenance and yes they are great looking cars. They sure ride better than new Cadillacs too
@@johnfranklin5277 I have a 83 coupe deville that was laid up in 2000 when the 4.1l seized. It now has a 305 out of a 91 c1500 in it. Runs fantastic! Rides so smooth and comfy
NEVER had 1 problem with my '96 Deville Northstar whatsoever But when I learned that the starter was below the intake manifold I was exstatic that I sold it at 126k miles.
Bulletproof it or dispose of it. I do not comprehend how crippling an engine is going to save the environment. The energy it takes to make these engines is wasted when they engines are junked early. Strip all the emission garbage off it and the engine runs great and is not junked. Thus, it would make more sense economically, environmentally, and practically, to not put the garbage emission junk on it to begin. It takes far more energy to melt down your old vehicle and make a new one than the old guzzler vehicle could have ver used in a service life.
The Oldsmobile diesel was pretty terrible from the factory but they can be built into a pretty awesome engine as long as you pick the right parts. The later DX block with the early pencil injector heads, studded and O-ringed with copper head gaskets, splayed bolt main caps, Speed pro 108M main bearings, King AM-series rod bearings, marine 10 quart oil pan and high volume oil pump. Also converted to internal balance. This combination can max out the stock injection pump at 240 HP with a roughly S366 size turbo. With the head and rotor of the 6.5 peninsular marine engine it can output about 320-350 hp. Internally balanced, they can turn up to 5900 rpm while keeping piston speed at 17 m/s or below. One example of a similar build, although limited to 2600 rpm due to the application is in, a John Deere model A tractor and can be found on RUclips. 240 hp at 2600 rpm.
If you have to "pick the right parts" and "build it", it was a terrible engine. A decent engine doesn't require such things to make it work. What you describe is known as making the best of a bad situation.
The Triton V10 gets a lot of hate, but I’ve had 3 of them. They fixed the spark plug issue in 2002 and up 2V. They will run for 400k miles only doing oil changes. And if you spend the money to have them geared down to 4.88 or 5.13, they will pull anything. I love my V10’s.
Absolutely agree. The basic engineering on the 6.8 is pretty good. Towing capacity is excellent. I don't think that they should be or need to be modified. They just need to be properly maintained.
I started as a mechanic in 1990 and 2.2 Chryslers were a dime a dozen. They were a good engine, not very powerful but they would chuck the occasional timing belt or blow a head gasket but were super easy to work on. You need an engineering degree to work on this new stuff which is why i'm a truck driver now. LOL
Quad 4 early 90’s. Common in the Pontiac Grand Am. My wife bought one brand new in 1990. Whooops. Favorite quote from Car Talk on how to repair a quad 4. “Drive it to the top of a mountain, put it in neutral and push it off the cliff. Then buy a good car”
The olds diesels are awesome blocks. Most of that added weight went into the blocks for extra webbing. If you wanted to build a hot rod 350 olds those are the best blocks.
Glad there are still some of us that remember. The Olds 5.7 diesel was an absolute beast, if you converted it back to a gas engine. HotRod had many great articles detailing exactly how to do it. Wish my wife's '84 98 had one rather than MY vote for the worst engine: the Olds 307.
The first gen 5.4 was actually a good motor. The problem with the spark plugs blowing out of the cylinder head was caused by too low of factory torque specs in the plugs. Increase the torque 10 ft lbs and there wasn’t an issue
@@Toolaholic7 Oil pump problems? I've never heard of that before. I've driven hundreds of thousands miles in and never had any oil problems in those motors
5.7 Hemi. In years past I was a test driver In Colorado. We tested Dodge/Ram trucks towing 10,000 lb trailers over Vail Pass and Eisenhower/Johnson Tunnels. Hot summer day, eastbound on the west side of Vail pass, those trucks were hard pressed to maintain 20 mph.. You could watch the gauges climb. Back at base, the mechanics would work hard to get the trucks ready for the next day.
I mean yeah, but lack of cooling issues aren't really the engines fault. More the fault of dodge/ram to build an adequate vehicle around the engine, which has been and still is still a huge ongoing issue...
Probably wasnt meant to haul that much. Thats what the 2500s are for. My 20 year old Ram 1500 still hauls over 1000lbs of gravel at highway speed. I completly dissagree with this analysis.
@@trevorhogen7761 , 1,000 lbs of gravel? So basically like hauling a Harley in the bed. That's not alot of weight. Basically like hauling around 4 people that weigh 250 lbs.
How is the 5.7 Hemi mentioned and not the 2.7 V6 from Chrysler? You are aware there are millions of 1st batch gen 3 hemis still out there running right?
I mean I understand with the first ones dropping valves but they fixed that quick, my 5.7 is at 582000km never been apart, original tranny too. Maybe I just got a Wednesday truck….
Bad engines are opportunities for people that repair cars. I bought a 98 Olds Aurora with 100,000 miles and a blown head gasket for $500. It was a PIA but I repaired the head bolts threads and head gasket. My family drove it for another 150,000 miles before it was scrapped. Ditto with the 5.4 3 valve, I picked up a 2004 F150 supercab lariat for $500 because it "needed an engine" at 140,000 miles. I repaired that motor and disabled VCT and it's running great for my son atm.
I used to share the common belief about Northstar=BAD. I've now owned two of them and, goddam, they have been some of the best engines I've ever owned. Zero problems, zero oil consumption, great fuel efficiency, etc. I think they got their bad rep in the early 90s and never outgrew it. Those made from 2004 onwards are EXCELLENT engines. Those made pre-2000 are good to stay away from. The ones in-between I'd also buy without hesitation, though they occasionally have some issues.
The PRV 2.8L V6 (Pugeut Renault Volvo joint venture) put in premium volvos in the 1980's and ended up in the DeLorean. Cooling system and lubrication problems. When they blew up under warranty voivo asked the customer if they could replace it with the excellent Volvo 2.1L turbo 4 cylinder it had better performance and was dead reliable.
Oh.. so many design flaw problems with the PRV! Rotting valley pans in the V. The incredibly stupid decision to run quite a lot of them on CIS mechanical injection, more correctly known as a Fuel Abortion. Horrendous quality build materials (crap metal, dissimilar metals, pot metal fasteners etc). Serviceability design flaws (fitted into far too many radically different vehicle configurations; all of them a nightmare to perform basic maintenance. Never ending electrical & sensor faults. Severely underdeveloped electronic engine management that's mostly banged together from off the shelf components (lamba computer, idle speed computer, CIS augmentation that didn't work). Heads that warp if you even say the word "heat". The list goes on and on.
I appreciate your comprehensive approach toward the good, bad, and ugly. Flaws in the design are the bean counters' lack of concern. What makes the matter worse is installing these concepts transversely.
Sometimes the Engineers just flat drop the ball and design turds. I'm a Ford man to the bone but the 5.4: Triton was a sparky spitting mistake. And they had an issue with tiny oil passages that had clogging problems and ruined heads on the regular. But some fellas that took good care of them got ridiculous milage out of them. Just use clean oil and change it on time.
I would have given the early ranger/ explorer 4.0sohc an honorable mention for their timing chain problems. The early ones had issues and the engine has 3 or 4 timing chains depending on if it has a balance shaft or not. One of them is on the rear of the engine, which makes serving that timing chain… difficult.
Also the 3.0 v6 are head cracking turds and the is a single overhead cam 2.9 4cyl from Ford that is shit too. GM had the 4cyl "blockhead " and the 2.2 and the 3.1 v6, saw a bunch of those in the reman shop back in the day when we worked on them
@@ryanmiller167 The old pre-1996 Vulcan 3.0 was as sturdy as an anchor and reliable as the sun. The problem was everything else in the 95 Taurus I had. Most notably the transmission. Engine was running fine at 190k when the 2nd transmission started going (think it was solenoids). I would have gotten it repaired but then pieces of the A/C system started literally falling off, it needed a new p/s pump, it had a parasitic battery drain ( I think it needed a new starter). It was the death of a thousand cuts.
I don't see what the big deal is with the 4.0.. the aftermarket sets gave it a bad rap. Subarus were get timing sets and head gaskets every 100k miles if lucky and didn't get blown up by not paying attention..Costs just mutch if not more. Girlfriends explorer tossed a chunk of the timing set through the valve cover on the freeway. Drove it to my shop. It had like 150k on it and was bought second hand from someone who didn't maintain it. I replaced cover and all the front timing stuff except the balance chain. The drive was destroyed on it. Put it all back together and ran great up to about 200k before the rear tensioner plastic wore away. Replaced the motor with a 80k motor i had in a wrecked truck. If anyone made it this far and says you need that chain on that balance shaft, well you have done no research as to its purpose in 4wd applications and it being completely unnecessary. You can not remove the shaft it must stay in place due to it being fed oil pressure.
The 2.2L was a good little engine and when equipped with a turbo was known to beat 5.0 Mustangs so not a dog. I don't really know what one expects out of an engine developed for the Kcar anyway.
I embarrassed many 5.0s in my Shelby Charger. When I converted it to turbo 2, I moved up to LS1s. I know of a few 2.2 turbo cars running low 10s. Mine was low 12s. Pretty good for an economy car engine with the exhaust and intake on the same side of the cylinder head.
We had 4 Chrysler 2.2 engines and a 2.5 engine. All were reliable and we drove them for many years and all went well over 100,000 miles with very few problems. All of them have good fuel mileage and none of them burned oil even with 175,000 miles on one of them. All ran smoothly and quietly when traded.
Yep...I had one in my 82' Dodge rampage. Never had one issue until about 178k miles with a hairline crack in the head which caused a coolant leak. This guy is so FOS.
I was surprised he mentioned that engine. Yeah the turbo model could blow a head gasket at like 100k but its making over 100 hp per liter. The naturally aspirated oned were just fine.
The 3VZ-E had bad head gaskets because the exhaust setup cooked the rear cylinders, also some other problems like poor sensors and lack of power were present
My dad’s olds diesel seemed fine to me until a Mercedes 300sd walked off and left it. Yes it had a turbo but it was only 3 liters and that big s class had to be heavier
After looking at maintenance costs for 5.4 and 6.8, I found out it is cheaper in the long run to get a 7.3 Powerstroke! To do coils on a V10, I can do injectors on a 7.3!
Working the rv industry since the late 90s, and I found that Triton V10 is the absolute most bulletproof heavy towing gas burner you can get by a Lang shot. Only time will tell on the new 7.3 gas, so far so good.
There are other worse engines! Engines with no keyed camshafts or crankshafts, or belts soaked in the oil pan to run the oil pump and timing system 🇺🇲✝️🇺🇲
I've been reading about numerous problems the VW/Audi 2.0 Turbo I4 engines have been having in their short lifespan. Could also be an engine to avoid. Though that might also fall under the same category as the N54, as they can make great power, but longevity seems to be an issue.
The EA888 nowadays is basically flawless. Plus the main issue was timing chain stuff and honestly the entire job isn't that difficult to do even if it pops
@@TheOldMachines the wife's 2014 Jetta with the 1.8 gen 3 is still a turd , stupid water pump setup is the worst design ever. Not to mention having to replace that turd on my own dime. That car is such a turd over what it replaced which was a 2004 Passat TDI. If some asshat didn't wreck into it, I'm sure it would still be trucking along.
The new junk Bronco engine with a plastic oil pain, plastic valve cover, plastic timing cover and over worked with a trubo may be in the running for the worse.
@@attilakohbor3360 When it was time to trade in my vehicle back in 2000, I looked at what was available and decided to hold on to my old vehicle just a but longer to see if vehicles got better. I kept doing this every four years. Now I wish I would have traded my vehicle back in 2000. There is absolutely nothing I would want today, save a Mustang or a Challenger. But they can not function all year where I reside. They would only be usable for summer and the early part of autumn. Now I have had my vehicle 27 years. There is no parting with her now. I quit looking in 2012. We have grown old together. Now she has a name, a duty for every season of the year, and she feels like a friend. I know all the routines and how to maintain and repair her. Only I have ever done any maintenence and repair to her. I can not buy a status quo, ugly, lackluster, appliance with no character and personality. It looks like I will have my Stargazer another 27 years.
@@kurtjammer9568 Does simply that Ferrari and Maserati use something make it good -- I can think of a number of examples showing that can be problematic. They get away with such because their owners are able to spend lots on them and don't need to drive them very often.
My grandpa had a 2004 f250 super duty with a 6.0 power stroke. Thing was a workhorse. He pulled his big boat and 26' 11k lb trailer up and down the east coast. Gave out earlier this year with 260k miles on it with 12k in repairs needed. He said goodbye to it.
My 06 F350 with the 6.0 is running strong at 290k miles. The most expensive repair I've done is the AC compressor after I bulletproofed the engine more than a decade ago
In 1986 I was a newly licensed 16 year old driver. On a family trip I drove my uncle’s Cadillac which was equipped with cylinder deactivation. It noticeably surged and slowed as the cylinders kicked in and out. When my uncle took the wheel and it continued to happen my mother expressed surprise that it was the car doing it. She just thought I was a bad driver.
I wonder why this is supposedly a good idea. The engine still has to produce the same amount of power to overcome its internal drag, only it's doing it with less cylinders. What's the big deal if the car needs 50hp (say) to drive at a steady 50, whether that 50hp is being produced by 8 or 4 cylinders?
@@townhall05446 The problem is that the system wasn't like all modern implementations of cylinder deactivation that use drive-by-wire. The Cadillac V8-6-4 had a physical throttle cable, so the driver would notice and have to compensate as cylinders cut in and out.
How about the latest GM disaster the 3.6 v6, which is not only plagued with timing chain issues but ( and this is the first time I've heard of this) also the reluctor wheel can slip effectively destroying the engine
The GM 5.7L diesel engine was definitely one of the worst engines ever produced. even the one's that didn't tear themselves apart? had issues with wiping out the front pump. in the turbohydromatic transmissions. from massive crankshaft flex. a person would think that GM would have known better than to take. a gasoline engine and turn it into a diesel engine. but apparently they didn't.
1:05 A Dohc is NOT better than an OHV. This is a common misconception. A Dohc is wider, heavier, has a more complex timing chain, etc. My point is, both configurations have their pro's and cons. The only time a Dohc setup is superior is if youre the EPA
There are still an awful lot of Cadillacs running around with Northstars in them from way back in the 90's and over a quarter of a million miles on them. A buddy of mine has 2. They aren't burning oil. either. YMMV. Also, the 4-6-8 engine was a fine engine mechanically. It oinly cost about 100 bucks back then to bypass the cylinder deactivation & then you had a great car.
Now, adjust the timing on the 8-6-4 v8 to Oldsmobile timing. 23 degrees BTDC. No ping, no knock, no unstable idle, just power. Now, it runs great. The only other thing to do is wire up the solenoids to shut down 4 cylinders to a single switch. Screw the computer. Do it manually. Avoid v6 mode.
How the hell do you put a 2.2L SOHC Chrysler in a bad engines list? Those engines eat abuse for breakfast, they're noninterference, run hard bearings, *occasionally* pop a head gasket but that's not a hard repair.... and there's enough beef in the design to turbocharge it. What gives? Negative engagement, or legitimately bad opinion?
I had a '76 Lincoln Mark IV with a 460. That was an interference engine, the timing chain jumped, and that was that. I also had a 1980 Coupe deDiesel, and that's all I have to say about that.
The 6.0 Powerstroke had some redemption. No such programs for the 350 Olds. I had a 2V 5.4. Was actually pretty reliable. Never had any spark plug issues. I know some people who did but they got fixed.
I had a 6.0Ford Diesel F-250 that was flawless from 2004 to 2012 and 80,000 miles. I used Stanadyne fuel additive with every fill up and Hot Shot Secret at 30k, 45k, and 60k miles. It never failed and only blew a turbo hose off once at 75k mile on a designed downshift towing a 10,000 pound enclosed car trailer. It was NEVER reprogramed and I used a BulltDog monitor to keep an eye on engine functions when towing.
I liked your triton V10 story. The truth is that even if 3 of your spark plugs blow out, you can still drive fine just will a bit less power and a small fire hazard.
Toyota also had problems with the head gasket on the 1990s landcruiser (80 series) apparently 30% had failures while under warranty and by 200k miles the failure rate was 100 % Mine went @ 150k in spectacular fashion - a blast of steam out the tailpipe.
Can't speak for the 5.4l but the 6.8l is far from gutless. My 6.8l V10 is everything I believe a truck engine should be. It makes approximately the same torque as my sister's 2019 6.4l v8 in her ram 2500. I've towed my 8500lbs travel trailer the same route with both vehicles and they get the same mileage.... sometimes the V10 does a little bit better. The biggest difference is how the V10 applies its torque. It comes on early like a diesel and stays there. The v8s you have to run out and blow the fuel mileage. Highway cruising and hill climbs are way better with the V10. The biggest drawback of those year 6.8ls was being paired with a 4speed auto. If you have a 6speed manual you're golden. Paired to a modern 8speed this engine would come alive. Also it's unfortunate these engines were overlooked by the aftermarket. I think there would've been a lot of opportunities to make really high low rpm horsepower and torque with better heads, cams, and superchargers. Say what you will it's my opinion that the V10 is one of the best Gasoline truck engines ever made.
They made decent power for the time. The DOHC made good power. But them being boat anchors are why they weren't swapped into modded cars. The 4.6 makes more power easier.
Well the fact that the 6.8 makes the peak torque at 3000rpm(468lbft) vs the 6.4s 4100rpm(429lbft) means it naturally is going to do the hauling job better than the V8 competition. If I had money coming out of every orifice I would rather the 6.8 V10 over any Gas V8. But I like my money in my wallet, so I drive a 6.7Powerstroke that's making more than 1000lbft from 1400-2400rpm and get 22mpg on the highway. My 9000lb diesel gets better mileage than the 5100lb 3.5L F150 it share the driveway with. Lol
Olds had their first generation V-8 out in 1949 and discontinued it at the end of '64. The Diesel mentioned in this video was based on the 2nd generation V-8
I do know one man that made excellent use of the Oldsmobile V8 diesel. He is a farmer that converted a tractor pulling tractor back into a field use tractor by replacing the souped up Chevy small block with one of these Olds engines and used it to pull a hay baler. The job only demanded about 50 hp. well in the range of this engine. The set up also sipped diesel fuel which the farmer enjoyed. Not the typical use of this engine, but one it excelled at.
The worst engine I've had to deal with was the 2.3L 140 CID four cylinder in the Vega. It was a aluminum alloy cylinder block with cast-iron cylinder head and single overhead camshaft. The block was open-deck with siamesed cylinder bores. Terrible design. The engine frequently blew head gasket and you ended up with milk shake in the crankcase and 99% of the time, failed bottom end.
It was the iron cylinder head and the silicon bore surfaces that caused all of the problems. Open deck blocks with siamesed cylinders are an absolute thing these days.
@@silicon212 Interesting, never understood what the Silicon did except reduce friction. I figured it was excessive heat caused by the siamesed bores. Learn something new everyday
@@Barry718Johnson They used the silicon in lieu of an iron sleeve as a surface for the piston to travel. Silicon is hard and they figured it would make for a perfect wear surface. They were right, but they didn't anticipate the oil control issues they'd have with it (did you ever see one that didn't smoke?) ... the piston was aluminum but had to be iron plated in order to live against the silicon bore.
I feel like he missed one by not mentioning the iron duke engine from GM. I owned a 1987 buick century, and I hated trying to merge into traffic, especially on the interstate because the engine didn't have the power to merge confidently. Even worse, it would shut off (without warning of course) for reasons unknown, and I remember my headers glowed red when I tried to drive up an incline. It was the only car that I abandoned and never gave it a second thought when the city towed it away for good.
@@12yearssober Maybe your experience was different. However, I never heard anyone ever say, "Man, I'm gonna take my chevy citation, and drive it from coast to coast!" Know why it was never said...because it was a shitty car with a shitty "iron duke" engine! They weren't reliable whatsoever! Get lost troll
I had a 1985 GM 454 that consumed 1 quart of oil for every 16 gallons of gasoline. This was a brand new truck from the dealer. It did not smoke or leak anywhere. No spillage. It was a carbureted engine. Ran great but you better have a case of oil with you when going somewhere. The dealer, naturally, wouldn't rectify the problem. I also had a 1981 Ford 1 ton 460 which would consume 44 gallons of gas going 208 miles. Would pull a house down but a gas guzzler. It didn't last long either. Neither one of those engines were modified in any way but straight from the factory.
WHY TAKE ANY CHANCES WITH YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY. WHEN YOU KNOW ANY HONDA OR TOYOTA WILL BE TROUBLE FREE ? NOT GOOD ENOUGH? GO LEXUS, ACURA INFINITY. PROBLEM SOLVED.
The Toyota 3vzE… you forgot it’s sibling the 3vz-FE from the Camry that was DOHC, and had head gasket problems. It was also hell to work on in that body vs it’s successor the 1MZ-FE, which brought slugging oil and a class action law suit.
My old 01 f150 spat 3 plugs in its life. The first time it happened I was horrified. After number 2 I had the repair done in a half hour. By number 3 I just kept a kit in the glove box and retorqued them every so often. I found it would usually give you a fair amount of warning before it happened. It would tick / putt in a way that made you think it had a manifold leak (which they were also known for), after learning that I never lost another 😂
Ford 300 i6, the king of gas engines for durability and work With the slant and amc 258 being close seconds but timing chain for the amc and small for the 170-200-225 slants
It's a real shock to learn about the spark plug issue on the 5.4 triton. My dad has a 2005 E350 with the 5.4 and it's given us no trouble at all. We've hauled lots of lumber, several cars, and a decently heavy trailer with it, its handled 18 years of intermittent use. When does the sparkplug issue come up?
The early engines suffered the issue. The later designed they added more spark plug threads. They could still spit out plugs though if they weren't tightened during a tune up
@@reweydewy must be real fun to do. I had to ask my mechanic to change them on three separate trips in through its oil changes until I finally pretty much demanded it haha.
The 5.4 also had a lot of issues with exhaust manifolds. The studs would break because they were too small. The really 3V versions also had a 2 piece spark plug that was notorious for having the bottom half size into the cylinder head and having to be extracted. Also bad for oil pressure issues due to poorly designed VCT systems, namely the timing tensioner seals failing and dumping oil pressure.
The best part is that even the single piece replacements can easily still seize in place, at which point they tend to BECOME a two piece when you go to remove them. Good thing they moved the fuel rails for better access to the ignition coils 🤣
I worked in a small Oldsmobile dealer on the West Coast during 1980/1. It was an embarrassing situation; it was a family owned dealership that was around for many years and the diesel engine failures did them in. Oldsmobile had besides the 5.7 diesel, they had for one or two years a 260 v8 diesel that was available as well. It wasn't bad enough that the 5.7 unit wasn't very powerful, the 260 unit was even more gutless and you could even get it in the full sized station wagon with the TH200! We were at one point, with factory approval, swapping engines from the new cars in stock if the customer complained enough and at one point we had more cars apart than the combined total of new and used cars! The dealership was sold to another organization a little while later. BTW, the Ford 2.0 liter sohc should be on this list. (Not the Pinto/Capri engine) The engine used in the Escort/Lynx? made by Ford. It dropped valve seats in many engines before 80k; in the dealership I was at, they wouldn't sell an Escort without the ESP (extended service plan) because the engine failures were so common. My 97 Escort wagon engine dropped its valve seat at 65mph and totally destroyed my motor. I bought the plan and sold the car after the complete engine was replaced by ESP coverage.
The 3.5 Ford Duratec engine has an internal water pump thats prone to fail and to replace it the timing chains have to be removed and replaced. Resulting in a 2K or so job that's if you catch it before the coolant ruins the engine
5.7 Hemi should not even be an honorable mention. Ive never heard of hemis “knocking there whole life” They are very reliable engines aside from broken exhaust manifold bolts
Mine sure has almost 300k on it and over 10000 engine hours. That thing doesn’t owe me anything if it blows tomorrow. Just done exhaust manifolds in it other then that it hasn’t been touched.
@@tylerfegan1386 110k on mine. Got some bolt ons and making 400whp. I beat on her a lot but i keep up with oil changes and other minor maintenance parts. The only issue ive ever had was 2 broken exhaust bolts. Didnt even know they were broken until i went to put long tube headers on.
That was very short lived and only on a few years of a 4cylinder. Way over hyped! I've ran the piss out of my 2007 3.0 6cyl and still runs like new after 160,000. Subbies tend to run a bit hotter than most engines. A well maintained cooling system is a must. In fact, all aluminum heads on all brands can easily warp when driven while overheating. The greater problem there is the operator not pulling over and shutting it off when they have an overheating issue.
As an owner of a 3VZE, yeah they need some extra lovin' in the coolant department.They still run! I work on my 3VZE often as it's 30 years old, but It's still a solid rig.
I have a 2.2l Mopar and for what it is isn't that bad.Overall mpg is around 20 as after 95k miles has been pretty reliable. Granted having a 4 cyl mopar engine in no way compares to Mopar engines in its heyday but it did help save Chrysler. Too it will not set speed records but always starts and gets the job done!
Great video until the very end when you called the 2.2 liter Mopar an absolute turd. I had one in my 1988 Plymouth Horizon back in the day. It felt quite peppy compared to other small cars of the day, got 35 mpg and lasted 280,000 miles. The transaxle and clutch on that car were weaker components than the engine.
Easy to stop the fuel spray when the triton engine spits out a spark plug. All you gotta do is unplug the injector and coil for that cylinder. You still gotta deal with the compression noise. But the under hood fire Hazzard is greatly reduced.
My experience has been the 3.6 GM engine was "fixed" in 2012 for the most part. We owned several old body style and new body style Impala's with those engines with 6 speed transmissions and power, fuel mileage and longevity was great. I don't know if the Traverse crossovers had a different engine version or if just the weight and wind resistance was just more work than the 3.6 was willing to do.
The Rover V8 (3.5l, 3.9l, and 4.0l) is still my favorite V8 to wrench on, it has way more pros then cons. The all-aluminum Buick 215 block was way ahead of it's time. The best 4x4 Land Rovers ever made were all powered by this lightweight and torquey little block. The Range Rover Classic, Discovery 1, and Classic Defender are arguably the best solid axle 4x4s ever made, and the reliability of the Gems and Thor engine management systems is actually quite impressive. They do have one real weakness, and it is overheating them. Maintaining the cooling system is absolutely critical. Most of the slipped liners are results of overheating, and can be rectified with a set of top hat liners and minor machine work on their eminent rebuild. I wish a performance company would engineer and build a performance block for this V8. It is a great little platform to build on, but good machinable crank cases are becoming rare. Still, I would rather keep wrenching on my Rover then repower it with something else.
It's literally one of the worst engines of all time. The rose colored glasses need to come off. It nearly bankrupted the company. Land Rover has been the least reliable automaker in the world for decades.
@@strongereveryday2302 One could argue that it was overall mismanagement that nearly bankrupted the company as opposed to a hunk of metal. Machines don't bankrupt businesses, people do. Land Rover chose to throw money at problems as opposed to doing the work to correct their issues at the root of the cause. There are plenty examples of well built, and solid performing Buick 215/ Rover V8 engines. The fact remains, swap 8 parts and retool a boring operation, and you have an engine that is not at all radically different than the old iron GM block that everyone loves so much, but you come in a couple hundred pounds lighter. I don't wear glasses, I see clearly.
@@strongereveryday2302 I've had several LRs, and also 2 v8 Rover SD1s - never any problems with the engine at all on any of them, although placing the coil packs between the back of the engine and the bulkhead is downright annoying on the 4.0. Land Rover is the least reliable automaker because everything else on them is shit ! Hydraulic self leveling suspension - aluminium distribution block and (non-stainless) steel pipes - weld in place and the distribution block costs £2500. Air suspension - first you know that there is a leak in the airbag is when the compressor burns out - £350. Leaks like crazy through the sunroofs. Dodgy ABS (google the 3 amigos). My last LR was a Disco 2 - I gather that the ones subsequently are just a disaster from a maintenance viewpoint ; by the time you get warned off them by an independent LR specialist, it's time to buy a Jeep. I had a Grand Wagoneer which was an utter piece of crap; so horribly and cheaply made with dodgy electrics worthy of a 1970s british car. Jeep Wrangler which was stunningly reliable. Now a hemi powered Grand Cherokee - no problems with the engine at all, runs as sweet as a nut after 100K miles.
2018 1.5L 4cyl Ecoboost One went due to detonation. Took 3 months to get parts and change it. 14 days after I got it back the new one EXPOLDED in smoke and flame in the middle of a busy hi-way. Dealer said the block was defective. I did not wait to find out how long it would take to fix this time. I traded it on a 2.0L Ecoboost. It's been fine.
Is a knock on cold start the same as piston slap? My 02 WS6 always had that clack clack clack on cold start. Ls1s are notorious for piston slap. My Toyota also has piston slap. 2grfe engine.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
What engines would you add? 🤔
I bet the Stella's Hurricane will make its mark soon enough
No 6.4 powerstroke? I mean, I like the 6.0 but I acknowledge it's problems. But wouldn't you say the 6.4 is worse and deserves a spot here? I find some people like myself find some saving grace with the 6.0 if you give them a lot of tender love and care. I don't see many people saying that about the 6.4. But I am newer to the diesel world so perhaps I am full of it. Loved the video!
6.4 Powerstroke takes 1st place
@@BionicBunnyMan I didn’t include the 6.4L Powerstroke because at its core, it’s also a 6.0L Powerstroke.
@@Dustrunnersauto i feel like international messed up the 6.4 on purpose so they dont have to deal with ford
The 6.0 Powerstroke is the best diesel engine in the world....... To use as a boat anchor
6.4: hold my beer
Yea i was going to say, the 6.0 isn't a bad engine, if you take care of it and are not an ignorant owner. You need to take it to a 6.0 specialist mechanic. It's like a bmw, you don't take it to canadian tire to have engine work done.
But the 6.4, there's no saving that motor. It will however run for about 200k before you'll end up replacing the whole engine. Most 6.0 trucks are still running the original block and heads
@@80KG_Costco_Chicken Big hard fact
5.9: move over yall
Oddly enough, the 3V 5.4 Triton engines actually brought a whole new spark plug issue with extended reach spark plug tips that frequently seize in place and break inside the cylinder head, requiring a special tool that breaks what's left and pulls it out. It remains the only engine-specific tool that the auto parts store I manage keeps on the wall behind the counter, because it's not a question of "if." 🤣
That's why should run Autolite plugs not Motorcraft on these engines.
As someone that works at autozone i can confirm we have plenty in stock😂
I actually have a way to remove those with no issues. Have 8 cups with brake fluid marvel and kroil mixed in said cups run engine to normal temp shut down pull coils pour mixture in each cylinder wait 20 min remove plugs.
Oreilly. I'd drop the part number but I can only remember the line code. REN
You can make a whole list for ford alone
The 3.6 V6 in many GM cars from the mid 2000's was a complete trash. Mine in CTS crapped out after 60K miles, burning a quart of oil every few hundred miles.
We cannot rag on the northstar without mentioning where those absolute genius engineers decided to put the starter motor....
Have you seen the starter though? It's stupidly overbuilt. They did that on purpose knowing it's a bitch to replace and maintenance stats show that they almost never fail.
I had to do this back when I was a teenager with a Haynes manual. I think equally frustrating was the water pump and it’s special tool….. busted some knuckles when it slipped off
I had a 2005 sts. I wish i had to do the starter on a northstar. The 3.6 starter was a bitch
Toyota also put their starter in the same spot in their V8s, specifically the one I have, 2UZ-FE.
The starter makes for a tidy package.
I did the headbolt upgrade on my Pontiac bonneville. Once that is done, it’s a great engine. The moron that signed off on fine threads on the headbolt studs needs kicked in the junk.
The 3VZE Toyota had massive head gasket failures with the very small sealing area at the rear of the block . If there was a half an inch of sealing area between the cylinder and the coolant passage. I have owned and machine shop for over 30 years. We did tons of things for the Toyota dealers, decking the heads and the blocks, but still nothing worked. The paper gasket would be soaking up the coolant in the small half inch area, and would separate from the steel fire ring, and thus, a consistent failure. The real issue is head shift, just like on the 6.0L Ford diesel. The 6.0 just did not have enough clamping load for the high compression, and if you messed with a tuner, your heads were instantly warped .007" I cut hundreds of these heads and never had one warped worse than .010" . The Toyota heads were also moving and that movement was accelerating the deterioration of the paper gasket in that small area. Toyota finally went to FelPro and asked them if they could come up with a possible solution. They created the MLS gasket. Sealant on the head side to adhere to the aluminum, sealant on the block side to adhere to the cast block, and a plate in the middle that allowed for head shift yet continued to seal, since there was no paper to weaken and tear. We were told all of this at a Fel Pro seminar back in the 90's.
I work on a lot of Triton motors . Little tip. If it throws a spark plug , it likely has a vaccum leak somewhere likely at the PCV tube . That vaccum leak causes pinging on hard accelerations which is when they spit the plug. If you spit a plug , smoke test your intake system.
I'm today days old, that I found out an engine can "spit a plug"...that's just, not right, but badass as the same time.
Is that true for a 98 2 valve triton.I have one that has a little missing. Thanks
As someone that has worked on a few engines over the past 20 years. Shitting sparkplugs was not a thing under any condition ever prior to Ford, a true moment in engineering history
The 2.2 liter Mopar is a great engine. The only problem with them is the factory turbo head gaskets. Replace the head bolts and gasket with the Mopar Performance parts and they are bulletproof. The bottom end is reminiscent of the Mopar RB engines. I have run over double the factory boost through multiple 2.2 engines and they keep on going.
I believe the 2.2 MOPAR engines are used in some racing series, so they can't be that bad.
We had a 2.2 in a '86 Plymouth Reliant. Drove it 175k miles with absolutely no issues. Would have kept it except we needed a bigger vehicle for kids
They leaked and burned oil like no tomorrow
Ya this guy is Baked to say a 2.2 is a crap engine. They are durable as hell. I agree with most of what's he's said, but he's way off the mark about the 2.2 L Chrysler.
@@oldironguy I agree. Of course, tons of people bought 2.2 powered cars because they were inexpensive. Inexpensive vehicles aren't typically maintained like one would maintain a BMW. When a vehicle has been neglected or beat on and it has issues, it's easy to blame the car instead of yourself. I think that is why 2.2 turbo cars have a bad rap.
You should definitely make a part 2 with the 6.4 Powerstroke
That is a nightmare from the factory. But if you bullet proof it, it is amazing. Unfortunately, not many know what that is and how to do it. Work has one. It seemed it was dying really early, before 150 thousand miles. One of the day shift mechanics did what he called a bullet proofing on it. It was like a new truck. Today, it has 388,000 miles on it and still hauling large loads in big trailers. After the bullet proofing, all we have done to it are valve cover gaskets, a starter about five years ago, and a ECM wiring harness last year.
@@indridcold8433 Yeah you can bulletproof it but I mean stock they are not very good. You can also bulletproof a 6.0 Powerstroke
@@terrificspokesman7416 Stock, the 6.0 is slightly worse than the 6.4, but not by much. It is amazing how trucks so close to dying get the bullet proofing and they revive like new. The issue is, after bulletpfoofing, some regions will not pass them after inspection. Here, we are lucky. There is no regional inspection.
It’s the emissions, not the engines that make the 6.0 and 6.4 shit.
@@indridcold8433 I’m sorry to be so ignorant, I have a 1986 Firebird with original 305 with carburetor, what do you mean by “bulletproofing an engine?”
5.7 hemi doesn’t deserve this list.
The one engine that must be added was the Chevy Vega 140 cid 4 cylinder. The idea for that engine had to of been a “Here hold my beer” moment at GM!
Yup! Check the gas, fill the oil!
They were junk from the day they rolled off the assembly line
In the end they perfected the silicon-aluminum bore alloy and reduced oil burning to a minimum. Millions of people use lawn mowers, snow blowers, pumps, generators, and cement mixers with plain aluminum cylinders.
That engine usually failed because of lack of lube. Everything leaked oil back then and starving any overhead cam motor was a recipe for quick failure.
The 6.0 and 6.4 ford engines keep me employed at the reman shop. Next would be the 13L Navistar when we do those you can't mill it because there is no extra room to do so for the timing chain and also the aluminum cam caps on the cast iron block is also another brilliant design.
Blame MAN for the Navistar 13 Liter. As far as I can recall, that's a rebadged MAN D2676LF engine which I have heard has a lot of issues from where I live. Further models have actually shifted to the Scania DC13 which so far on feedback, is a bit more reliable than MAN since Scania, MAN, and Navistar are currently under the TRATON group.
There are many engines that cannot remain reliable at above factory power and that does not make them bad engines, just not hotrod engines. The 6.0 might be a bad engine for other reasons, but no hotrodding is not by itself a legitimate reason to classify an engine as bad.
I've a van with the 6.0 and it was a catastrophe. Sold it after the second engine. I needed something reliable, not something I wasn't sure if it would needed to be towed to the client house.
As a shop owner of 25 years i have lost count of 07 and up ls afm engine failure. This has also resulted in class action.
I worked as a fleet mechanic for Amerco aka Uhaul and dealt with the Triton v10s and trying to send spark plugs into orbit is one of many issues! It wasn’t uncommon for them to completely fail around 60k miles, The exhaust manifolds/ donut gaskets leaking were so common that we changed them almost as often as the oil and you were guaranteed on having half the studs break, no matter how carefully you attempted to remove them! I got so good at welding nuts onto studs that had broken off down in the block, I actually passed the welding test for company I’m with now as a welder 🤣 I’d only had basic experience prior to uhaul! Sometimes bad things can turn into something good!
The 2.2 Liter Mopar engine was a good eng. I ran my 1982 Dodge Rampage up to about 180k miles and I beat the hell out of it. This guy is FOS!
180k is not a milestone to brag about, lol. If someone isn't getting 300k out of an engine they took care of and maintenanced, then it's nothing to brag about...
@@sethdover4999 Hmmm...My mom couldn't even get 75k miles out of her 1985 Toyota Camry before it started nickeling and diming her each week. Every Toyota dealer in the area couldn't even fix that shit. She ended up selling it to a local mechanic. She then bought a Saturn LS which we still have to this day.
@@matrox Before the 2000s I wouldn't have made my statement, and would've agreed with you completely. But somewhere along that period, to present day, the Japanese products became better than the domestic. There was a time you couldn't have convinced me you could do better than Ford or Chevy in the old days. Now, I wouldn't even consider buying domestic...
@@sethdover4999 I would never buy a foriegn car today. Always been way over hyped intentionally by the fake news.
@@matrox Well, that isn't easy to do. GM has the majority of its stock controlled by foreign investors (Chinese), so where are the parts coming from? You might want a Mazda from Huntsville, Alabama or perhaps a Honda from East Liberty or Marysville Ohio. You might prefer a Nissan, though, from Smyrna Tennessee.Chrysler is a part of Stellantis, an automotive conglomerate based in The Netherlands. Stellantis bought out Fiat-Crysler some time ago.
Just being American assembled doesn't mean any cars truly "American made". Last I knew of, Honda Civic was not only made in America, but had the largest number of American made components. Don't want foreign? Honda Civic seems to be the go-to car for you.
I had a Chrysler turbo 2.2 that had over 200,000 miles when I got rid of it and it was still on the original clutch. Change the oil when recommended and change filter every change and that car was dead reliable and quite fast for the time. My pick for the worse engine would be the aluminum block aluminum head 4 cylinder in the early Vegas. Many were already burning a quart of oil before 50,000 miles. Unlike most alum block engines the pistons road against the block and not steel liners. On the highway the smell of burning oil told you a Vega was up ahead.
Vega had iron head.
Yep...great little eng. Ran mine to 178k. Replace the clutch once.
Chevy Vega 2.3L incessant head gasket issues every 30k
The Chevy Vega engine with an aluminum block (with siliconized bore) and an overhead cam cast iron head. Poor cooling system led to blown headgaskets and warped blocks.
A well respected engine builder who destroked & hot rodded Vega engines told me he had never seen a warped block Vega engine packing the correct strength antifreeze. We now know today that proper coolant strength is critical in ALL aluminum engines.
@@wymple09 The main issue was that they would CRACK THE HEAD most of the time around 50,000 miles.
NOT warped blocks or head gasket issues.
GM called it the "50,000 mile engine" and it lived DOWN to that name.
Mine didn't even make it to 50,000 (head crack around 47,000) - and yes, I DID keep the antifreeze at correct strength.
We have a winner!
@@wymple09 Type of coolant is irrelevant!! Keeping it in the engine IS! Cylinders sinking down & losing the HG's seal because of that, was the main problem IIRC.
@@alro2434 I didn't mention the TYPE of coolant, only the strength.
I have to call you out on calling the 2.2 liter Chrysler a Turd! You probably weren't even born till after they stopped production. The engine and the K car literally saved Chrysler Corporation! The biggest issue they had wasn't even uncommon in that time period for 4 cylinder American and Japanese Engines! Ask any decent mechanic from the era and they will tell you summer was known as head gasket season! It was very common for Toyota head gaskets to pop as well!
Roll came out with a better 2.2 head gasket. Those that raced them would O ring them! They would put so much boost to them the head bolts would stretch!
That gets to another issue many and I mean many Mustangs, Camaro's and even Grand Nationals lost to the little 2.2 Turbo.
I drove a 2.2 liter K car as a cab. I was a major doubter of them and heard the head gasket complaints before driving one. The Company absolutely loved them and would run them past 350,000 miles. Cheap to buy, cheap to repair, easy to find parts for then and all of us drivers loved them! Great fuel mileage compared to the Ex cop cars! Much better turning radius and surprisingly comfortable to spend a 12 hour shift in!
The later Northstars were pretty decent. My in-laws had a Deville from the early 2000s and it was flawless. Really comfy car to drive.
Gm did correct the overheating issues with the later model 4.6 and perfect fuel mileage
I wish that was true of this 03' deville I have. Reservoir cap failed, overheated, blew both head gaskets. Now the only way it will run is if you drain the cooling system then it will start otherwise the cylinders inhale so much coolant it hydrolocks. I hate it, I'm about to scrap it.
@@donnycummings491 That was your fault. '03 Northstars are excellent engines. You overheated it and ruined it. Your fault. Radiator caps fail sometimes regardless of your engine - I've replaced many on vehicles when they started to go.
Those were very well made cars, and the engine was solid. It was the pre-2000 Northstars that gave GM a bad name. Your car does have the 4T80E transmission with a known TCC issue though. Should you run into that just ignore it. It doesn't affect reliability.
@@donnycummings491 you still got it? Ill buy it off ya
Chevy Vega engines deserve a dishonorable mention.
Worked at toyota dealer in late 90's. The 3.0 had a recall on headgasket. Often the recall replaced entire top end and a few complete engines. Based on what remember back then it was a headgasket specific issue that led to destruction of other parts when left unchecked.
I have a 90 4runner that recall got done on, it's at 286,000 with the 3.0
528K miles on a 1996 3.0 V6 Camry. Never heard of this nor was this repair needed with 528K miles!
@@TB-lv2rh your car doesn't have the 3vze it's a different engine
I have a 1995 4runner, 3.0,
Having various issues now.
Is there any way to find out if the recall could possibly still apply , or, what would you suggest , short of the junkyard ??
@@tismit417 3.4 swap is usually the way to go when your 3.0 is on its way out
I enjoyed the video. Every auto manufacturer always has they’re fair share of failures. Surprised the Cadillac 4.1 didn’t make it on the list. You should do a part 2
I have my Dads 83 Eldorado. It has the notorious HT 4100. At 40 years old now, and 167.000 miles, its never had any issues . Granted its recieved excellent care, 4000 mile oil changes or every 6 months, which is the norm, and coolant changes every 2 years with the coolant tabs that are mandatory. They truly are beautiful cars, and ride and drive so nice.
@@johnfranklin5277 thats awesome you have yourself a unicorn of a 4100. Keep giving it the same care. Makes me wonder how many 4100s failed due to not keeping up with maintenance and yes they are great looking cars. They sure ride better than new Cadillacs too
@@johnfranklin5277 I have a 83 coupe deville that was laid up in 2000 when the 4.1l seized. It now has a 305 out of a 91 c1500 in it. Runs fantastic! Rides so smooth and comfy
NEVER had 1 problem with my '96 Deville Northstar whatsoever But when I learned that the starter was below the intake manifold I was exstatic that I sold it at 126k miles.
I remember that piece of junk
PowerStroke 6.4L.
Bulletproof it or dispose of it. I do not comprehend how crippling an engine is going to save the environment. The energy it takes to make these engines is wasted when they engines are junked early. Strip all the emission garbage off it and the engine runs great and is not junked. Thus, it would make more sense economically, environmentally, and practically, to not put the garbage emission junk on it to begin. It takes far more energy to melt down your old vehicle and make a new one than the old guzzler vehicle could have ver used in a service life.
The Oldsmobile diesel was pretty terrible from the factory but they can be built into a pretty awesome engine as long as you pick the right parts. The later DX block with the early pencil injector heads, studded and O-ringed with copper head gaskets, splayed bolt main caps, Speed pro 108M main bearings, King AM-series rod bearings, marine 10 quart oil pan and high volume oil pump. Also converted to internal balance. This combination can max out the stock injection pump at 240 HP with a roughly S366 size turbo. With the head and rotor of the 6.5 peninsular marine engine it can output about 320-350 hp. Internally balanced, they can turn up to 5900 rpm while keeping piston speed at 17 m/s or below. One example of a similar build, although limited to 2600 rpm due to the application is in, a John Deere model A tractor and can be found on RUclips. 240 hp at 2600 rpm.
Or in could buy a junkyard cummins with 300k that makes more power...
If you have to "pick the right parts" and "build it", it was a terrible engine. A decent engine doesn't require such things to make it work. What you describe is known as making the best of a bad situation.
The Triton V10 gets a lot of hate, but I’ve had 3 of them. They fixed the spark plug issue in 2002 and up 2V. They will run for 400k miles only doing oil changes. And if you spend the money to have them geared down to 4.88 or 5.13, they will pull anything. I love my V10’s.
We've have 350.000 on ours, 2001 Excursion runs like a clock. I agree with you.
I got one in a 02 F-250 love it!
But the dodge v10 was eons better, right out of the box.
Absolutely agree. The basic engineering on the 6.8 is pretty good. Towing capacity is excellent. I don't think that they should be or need to be modified. They just need to be properly maintained.
Agree, I have 3 of them myself all floating around 200-300 thousand miles, never any real issues. Love the v10👍🏻
I started as a mechanic in 1990 and 2.2 Chryslers were a dime a dozen. They were a good engine, not very powerful but they would chuck the occasional timing belt or blow a head gasket but were super easy to work on. You need an engineering degree to work on this new stuff which is why i'm a truck driver now. LOL
Glad I went into the generator field after dealing with cars and trucks for a few years.
Haha we didn't start using cats till 2012 🤣
Keep that shiny side up, friend.
7:15, my truck also has cylinder deactivation, it’s a trick that it learned all by itself.
Cadillac Northstars have you beat, the first 7 cylinder v8
Hahahaha spark plugs hitting the hood.
Quad 4 early 90’s. Common in the Pontiac Grand Am. My wife bought one brand new in 1990. Whooops. Favorite quote from Car Talk on how to repair a quad 4. “Drive it to the top of a mountain, put it in neutral and push it off the cliff. Then buy a good car”
The Triumph V8 from the Stag deserves a video all its own. Old, but still notorious.
To think it could've had a Chevy small block in it from the factory...
The olds diesels are awesome blocks. Most of that added weight went into the blocks for extra webbing. If you wanted to build a hot rod 350 olds those are the best blocks.
The engine otherwise was a looser
Bull Shit!
Higher nickel content in the block casting.
Nah, the NASCAR Olds small blocks were the best ones to use..
Glad there are still some of us that remember. The Olds 5.7 diesel was an absolute beast, if you converted it back to a gas engine. HotRod had many great articles detailing exactly how to do it. Wish my wife's '84 98 had one rather than MY vote for the worst engine: the Olds 307.
The first gen 5.4 was actually a good motor. The problem with the spark plugs blowing out of the cylinder head was caused by too low of factory torque specs in the plugs. Increase the torque 10 ft lbs and there wasn’t an issue
Had oil pump problems too
@@Toolaholic7 Oil pump problems? I've never heard of that before. I've driven hundreds of thousands miles in and never had any oil problems in those motors
@ceetwarrior Yes,we had one in with a seized up 5.4 in a 2003 F150.Figured out it was the oil pump was bad that had bad oil pressure.Had oil in it
@@Toolaholic7 Right, on that same note 350 chevys have weak pistons because my friend had one that broke a piston.
@@venialgaming4295 350 Chevys do not have weak pistons
Gm 3100 Series 2 3.1
V6 engine and GM 3400 Series 2 3.4 V6 engine, GM 3.6 V6 engine the GM V6 engines, Dodge every Penastar 2.7 V6 engine, 3.3-3-6 Penastar V6
engines. Every 1.8 or 2.0 engines don't buy any cheap cars and SUVs .
5.7 Hemi. In years past I was a test driver In Colorado. We tested Dodge/Ram trucks towing 10,000 lb trailers over Vail Pass and Eisenhower/Johnson Tunnels. Hot summer day, eastbound on the west side of Vail pass, those trucks were hard pressed to maintain 20 mph.. You could watch the gauges climb. Back at base, the mechanics would work hard to get the trucks ready for the next day.
I mean yeah, but lack of cooling issues aren't really the engines fault. More the fault of dodge/ram to build an adequate vehicle around the engine, which has been and still is still a huge ongoing issue...
Probably wasnt meant to haul that much. Thats what the 2500s are for. My 20 year old Ram 1500 still hauls over 1000lbs of gravel at highway speed. I completly dissagree with this analysis.
One pound more and you'd need a class A license for that 10,000 pound trailer. Can you say "tractor trailer"?
@@trevorhogen7761 , 1,000 lbs of gravel? So basically like hauling a Harley in the bed. That's not alot of weight. Basically like hauling around 4 people that weigh 250 lbs.
@@raymondellis5720 , actually you can get by up to 24,000 lbs on a standard driver license.
The Northstar with all of the aftermarket fixes, such as screw in head studs, actually make it a very reliable motor.
....with all it's aftermarket fixes....that you have to buy...and pay to have installed....
As a retired engine machinist I will argue with you on that!!! Norstar sucked that bad.
i have a 93 boy has a 98...run great,,,run the hard an change the anti freeze
@@1mikewalsh You would be hard pressed to find a Northstar that didn't leak oil as well. LOL
He also has it's release date wrong.
How is the 5.7 Hemi mentioned and not the 2.7 V6 from Chrysler? You are aware there are millions of 1st batch gen 3 hemis still out there running right?
For sure the 2.7 is so bad reman companies say ya you can't polish a turd
I mean I understand with the first ones dropping valves but they fixed that quick, my 5.7 is at 582000km never been apart, original tranny too. Maybe I just got a Wednesday truck….
My mechanic said any dodge that ends in .7 will drop the valves. 3.7 Cherokee dumped a valve at 164,000.
Bad engines are opportunities for people that repair cars. I bought a 98 Olds Aurora with 100,000 miles and a blown head gasket for $500. It was a PIA but I repaired the head bolts threads and head gasket. My family drove it for another 150,000 miles before it was scrapped. Ditto with the 5.4 3 valve, I picked up a 2004 F150 supercab lariat for $500 because it "needed an engine" at 140,000 miles. I repaired that motor and disabled VCT and it's running great for my son atm.
I used to share the common belief about Northstar=BAD. I've now owned two of them and, goddam, they have been some of the best engines I've ever owned. Zero problems, zero oil consumption, great fuel efficiency, etc. I think they got their bad rep in the early 90s and never outgrew it. Those made from 2004 onwards are EXCELLENT engines. Those made pre-2000 are good to stay away from. The ones in-between I'd also buy without hesitation, though they occasionally have some issues.
Yep....this guy is FOS....he's here just for Clicks.
The originals had The head bolts threaded into aluminum instead of steel inserts. Insanity. Be gentle with it and take good care of it
The PRV 2.8L V6 (Pugeut Renault Volvo joint venture) put in premium volvos in the 1980's and ended up in the DeLorean. Cooling system and lubrication problems. When they blew up under warranty voivo asked the customer if they could replace it with the excellent Volvo 2.1L turbo 4 cylinder it had better performance and was dead reliable.
Oh.. so many design flaw problems with the PRV! Rotting valley pans in the V. The incredibly stupid decision to run quite a lot of them on CIS mechanical injection, more correctly known as a Fuel Abortion. Horrendous quality build materials (crap metal, dissimilar metals, pot metal fasteners etc). Serviceability design flaws (fitted into far too many radically different vehicle configurations; all of them a nightmare to perform basic maintenance. Never ending electrical & sensor faults. Severely underdeveloped electronic engine management that's mostly banged together from off the shelf components (lamba computer, idle speed computer, CIS augmentation that didn't work). Heads that warp if you even say the word "heat". The list goes on and on.
I appreciate your comprehensive approach toward the good, bad, and ugly. Flaws in the design are the bean counters' lack of concern. What makes the matter worse is installing these concepts transversely.
Sometimes the Engineers just flat drop the ball and design turds. I'm a Ford man to the bone but the 5.4: Triton was a sparky spitting mistake. And they had an issue with tiny oil passages that had clogging problems and ruined heads on the regular. But some fellas that took good care of them got ridiculous milage out of them. Just use clean oil and change it on time.
Bean counters are the cause of alot of business problems
I would have given the early ranger/ explorer 4.0sohc an honorable mention for their timing chain problems. The early ones had issues and the engine has 3 or 4 timing chains depending on if it has a balance shaft or not. One of them is on the rear of the engine, which makes serving that timing chain… difficult.
Also the 3.0 v6 are head cracking turds and the is a single overhead cam 2.9 4cyl from Ford that is shit too. GM had the 4cyl "blockhead " and the 2.2 and the 3.1 v6, saw a bunch of those in the reman shop back in the day when we worked on them
@@ryanmiller167 The old pre-1996 Vulcan 3.0 was as sturdy as an anchor and reliable as the sun. The problem was everything else in the 95 Taurus I had. Most notably the transmission. Engine was running fine at 190k when the 2nd transmission started going (think it was solenoids). I would have gotten it repaired but then pieces of the A/C system started literally falling off, it needed a new p/s pump, it had a parasitic battery drain ( I think it needed a new starter). It was the death of a thousand cuts.
I don't see what the big deal is with the 4.0.. the aftermarket sets gave it a bad rap. Subarus were get timing sets and head gaskets every 100k miles if lucky and didn't get blown up by not paying attention..Costs just mutch if not more.
Girlfriends explorer tossed a chunk of the timing set through the valve cover on the freeway. Drove it to my shop. It had like 150k on it and was bought second hand from someone who didn't maintain it. I replaced cover and all the front timing stuff except the balance chain. The drive was destroyed on it. Put it all back together and ran great up to about 200k before the rear tensioner plastic wore away. Replaced the motor with a 80k motor i had in a wrecked truck. If anyone made it this far and says you need that chain on that balance shaft, well you have done no research as to its purpose in 4wd applications and it being completely unnecessary. You can not remove the shaft it must stay in place due to it being fed oil pressure.
Not honorable mention,number 1.remove engine to service timing,all associated bolts torque to yield.what a fucking joke.doing one now...monte
The worst engine to work on period
The 2.2L was a good little engine and when equipped with a turbo was known to beat 5.0 Mustangs so not a dog. I don't really know what one expects out of an engine developed for the Kcar anyway.
I embarrassed many 5.0s in my Shelby Charger. When I converted it to turbo 2, I moved up to LS1s. I know of a few 2.2 turbo cars running low 10s. Mine was low 12s. Pretty good for an economy car engine with the exhaust and intake on the same side of the cylinder head.
We had 4 Chrysler 2.2 engines and a 2.5 engine. All were reliable and we drove them for many years and all went well over 100,000 miles with very few problems. All of them have good fuel mileage and none of them burned oil even with 175,000 miles on one of them. All ran smoothly and quietly when traded.
Yep...I had one in my 82' Dodge rampage. Never had one issue until about 178k miles with a hairline crack in the head which caused a coolant leak. This guy is so FOS.
I was surprised he mentioned that engine. Yeah the turbo model could blow a head gasket at like 100k but its making over 100 hp per liter. The naturally aspirated oned were just fine.
The 3VZ-E had bad head gaskets because the exhaust setup cooked the rear cylinders, also some other problems like poor sensors and lack of power were present
I'm surprised the Olds diesel 5.7 made 120 hp. I expected more like 90 hp for an improvised diesel from back then
My dad’s olds diesel seemed fine to me until a Mercedes 300sd walked off and left it. Yes it had a turbo but it was only 3 liters and that big s class had to be heavier
But, those blocks were awesome for hi-po gas engines.
Was it the engine or just lack of water filter from the diesel tank. I do think the filter would made it useful..... some how!
@@rvarsigfusson6163never had water issues at all in my 5.7L
That 120 was at the output engine shaft, when new. At the wheel, after a couple of years, it was like 60hp.
After looking at maintenance costs for 5.4 and 6.8, I found out it is cheaper in the long run to get a 7.3 Powerstroke! To do coils on a V10, I can do injectors on a 7.3!
If you are burning up your coils you might try changing your plugs within the recommended mileages.
@@stephenwest798 I’m just hearing from other people.
Working the rv industry since the late 90s, and I found that Triton V10 is the absolute most bulletproof heavy towing gas burner you can get by a Lang shot. Only time will tell on the new 7.3 gas, so far so good.
I had a 6.8 V10 in a 2001 Excursion. It was problem free, ran great. The gas mileage was horrible, but no problems.
I own a 2011 Ford Expedition with 250k carefree miles. I guess mine was built on quality/bonus day lol.
There are other worse engines! Engines with no keyed camshafts or crankshafts, or belts soaked in the oil pan to run the oil pump and timing system 🇺🇲✝️🇺🇲
I've been reading about numerous problems the VW/Audi 2.0 Turbo I4 engines have been having in their short lifespan. Could also be an engine to avoid. Though that might also fall under the same category as the N54, as they can make great power, but longevity seems to be an issue.
These got better with each update. Today they are really good.
The EA888 nowadays is basically flawless. Plus the main issue was timing chain stuff and honestly the entire job isn't that difficult to do even if it pops
@@TheOldMachines the wife's 2014 Jetta with the 1.8 gen 3 is still a turd , stupid water pump setup is the worst design ever.
Not to mention having to replace that turd on my own dime.
That car is such a turd over what it replaced which was a 2004 Passat TDI.
If some asshat didn't wreck into it, I'm sure it would still be trucking along.
@@MrTheHillfolkshould've gotten the Jetta with the 07k.... Tank of an engine.......
@@MiguelGarcia-vj7oo like I had a choice
The new junk Bronco engine with a plastic oil pain, plastic valve cover, plastic timing cover and over worked with a trubo may be in the running for the worse.
@@attilakohbor3360 When it was time to trade in my vehicle back in 2000, I looked at what was available and decided to hold on to my old vehicle just a but longer to see if vehicles got better. I kept doing this every four years. Now I wish I would have traded my vehicle back in 2000. There is absolutely nothing I would want today, save a Mustang or a Challenger. But they can not function all year where I reside. They would only be usable for summer and the early part of autumn. Now I have had my vehicle 27 years. There is no parting with her now. I quit looking in 2012. We have grown old together. Now she has a name, a duty for every season of the year, and she feels like a friend. I know all the routines and how to maintain and repair her. Only I have ever done any maintenence and repair to her. I can not buy a status quo, ugly, lackluster, appliance with no character and personality. It looks like I will have my Stargazer another 27 years.
in some cases plastic is superior to metal ..lol ferrari uses it .maserati etc.
@@kurtjammer9568 Does simply that Ferrari and Maserati use something make it good -- I can think of a number of examples showing that can be problematic. They get away with such because their owners are able to spend lots on them and don't need to drive them very often.
My grandpa had a 2004 f250 super duty with a 6.0 power stroke. Thing was a workhorse. He pulled his big boat and 26' 11k lb trailer up and down the east coast. Gave out earlier this year with 260k miles on it with 12k in repairs needed. He said goodbye to it.
My 06 F350 with the 6.0 is running strong at 290k miles. The most expensive repair I've done is the AC compressor after I bulletproofed the engine more than a decade ago
Burning 1qt of oil per one thousand miles on the northstar engine, sounds familiar to what toyota says is normal for the camry and rav4
In 1986 I was a newly licensed 16 year old driver. On a family trip I drove my uncle’s Cadillac which was equipped with cylinder deactivation. It noticeably surged and slowed as the cylinders kicked in and out. When my uncle took the wheel and it continued to happen my mother expressed surprise that it was the car doing it. She just thought I was a bad driver.
I wonder why this is supposedly a good idea. The engine still has to produce the same amount of power to overcome its internal drag, only it's doing it with less cylinders. What's the big deal if the car needs 50hp (say) to drive at a steady 50, whether that 50hp is being produced by 8 or 4 cylinders?
@@townhall05446 The problem is that the system wasn't like all modern implementations of cylinder deactivation that use drive-by-wire. The Cadillac V8-6-4 had a physical throttle cable, so the driver would notice and have to compensate as cylinders cut in and out.
Triumph stag V8, literally welded two 4 cylinder engines together and you can predict the rest. Also the Vega 4 cylinder
Oh yeah the Triumph 3.0 V8
What about any and all newer Kia/Hyundai 4 cylinders 😂 they shit out bottom ends like no tomorrow
At 30,000 miles no less
How about the latest GM disaster the 3.6 v6, which is not only plagued with timing chain issues but ( and this is the first time I've heard of this) also the reluctor wheel can slip effectively destroying the engine
"Our new High-Feature V6 engine now have the ability to self-destruct even more easily than they used to!"
I have a 3.4l Ohv in my firebird, and it's a damn tank. The older 3.1 and 2.8 60 degree V6 are good too
I think the 3.0 has similar issues too
GM 3.6 issues are derived from neglect by the owner. I have the original timing chains on my 3.6 at almost 250,000 miles now and no problems
@@michaelcabral2174 your 1 of the lucky ones, heard nothing but horror stories about these
The GM 5.7L diesel engine was definitely one of the worst engines ever produced. even the one's that didn't tear themselves apart? had issues with wiping out the front pump. in the turbohydromatic transmissions. from massive crankshaft flex. a person would think that GM would have known better than to take. a gasoline engine and turn it into a diesel engine. but apparently they didn't.
1:05 A Dohc is NOT better than an OHV. This is a common misconception. A Dohc is wider, heavier, has a more complex timing chain, etc. My point is, both configurations have their pro's and cons. The only time a Dohc setup is superior is if youre the EPA
There are still an awful lot of Cadillacs running around with Northstars in them from way back in the 90's and over a quarter of a million miles on them. A buddy of mine has 2. They aren't burning oil. either. YMMV. Also, the 4-6-8 engine was a fine engine mechanically. It oinly cost about 100 bucks back then to bypass the cylinder deactivation & then you had a great car.
Now, adjust the timing on the 8-6-4 v8 to Oldsmobile timing. 23 degrees BTDC. No ping, no knock, no unstable idle, just power. Now, it runs great. The only other thing to do is wire up the solenoids to shut down 4 cylinders to a single switch. Screw the computer. Do it manually. Avoid v6 mode.
How the hell do you put a 2.2L SOHC Chrysler in a bad engines list? Those engines eat abuse for breakfast, they're noninterference, run hard bearings, *occasionally* pop a head gasket but that's not a hard repair.... and there's enough beef in the design to turbocharge it. What gives? Negative engagement, or legitimately bad opinion?
I had a '76 Lincoln Mark IV with a 460. That was an interference engine, the timing chain jumped, and that was that. I also had a 1980 Coupe deDiesel, and that's all I have to say about that.
The 6.0 Powerstroke had some redemption. No such programs for the 350 Olds. I had a 2V 5.4. Was actually pretty reliable. Never had any spark plug issues. I know some people who did but they got fixed.
I've had a couple of 2 valve, and maintenance is everything and they will pass 250,000 miles.
I had a 6.0Ford Diesel F-250 that was flawless from 2004 to 2012 and 80,000 miles. I used Stanadyne fuel additive with every fill up and Hot Shot Secret at 30k, 45k, and 60k miles. It never failed and only blew a turbo hose off once at 75k mile on a designed downshift towing a 10,000 pound enclosed car trailer. It was NEVER reprogramed and I used a BulltDog monitor to keep an eye on engine functions when towing.
I liked your triton V10 story. The truth is that even if 3 of your spark plugs blow out, you can still drive fine just will a bit less power and a small fire hazard.
Wow, this sparkplug issue is not something I was aware of. Thanks for chiming in.
As long as it’s just a “small” fire hazard…🤣🤣
Toyota also had problems with the head gasket on the 1990s landcruiser (80 series) apparently 30% had failures while under warranty and by 200k miles the failure rate was 100 %
Mine went @ 150k in spectacular fashion - a blast of steam out the tailpipe.
Can't speak for the 5.4l but the 6.8l is far from gutless. My 6.8l V10 is everything I believe a truck engine should be. It makes approximately the same torque as my sister's 2019 6.4l v8 in her ram 2500. I've towed my 8500lbs travel trailer the same route with both vehicles and they get the same mileage.... sometimes the V10 does a little bit better. The biggest difference is how the V10 applies its torque. It comes on early like a diesel and stays there. The v8s you have to run out and blow the fuel mileage. Highway cruising and hill climbs are way better with the V10. The biggest drawback of those year 6.8ls was being paired with a 4speed auto. If you have a 6speed manual you're golden. Paired to a modern 8speed this engine would come alive. Also it's unfortunate these engines were overlooked by the aftermarket. I think there would've been a lot of opportunities to make really high low rpm horsepower and torque with better heads, cams, and superchargers. Say what you will it's my opinion that the V10 is one of the best Gasoline truck engines ever made.
They made decent power for the time. The DOHC made good power.
But them being boat anchors are why they weren't swapped into modded cars. The 4.6 makes more power easier.
Well the fact that the 6.8 makes the peak torque at 3000rpm(468lbft) vs the 6.4s 4100rpm(429lbft) means it naturally is going to do the hauling job better than the V8 competition. If I had money coming out of every orifice I would rather the 6.8 V10 over any Gas V8. But I like my money in my wallet, so I drive a 6.7Powerstroke that's making more than 1000lbft from 1400-2400rpm and get 22mpg on the highway. My 9000lb diesel gets better mileage than the 5100lb 3.5L F150 it share the driveway with. Lol
You are telling me what I want to hear. So far for the 6.8 L, it is 3 to 3 bad- good.
you're right about the 5.4 Triton, I would add the 4.0 ford to your list. What a pain to work on with a cam chain in the back of the engine...
2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 been remarkable reliable so far.... 190 thousand miles, when the chains go u will just junk it.
Olds had their first generation V-8 out in 1949 and discontinued it at the end of '64. The Diesel mentioned in this video was based on the 2nd generation V-8
I do know one man that made excellent use of the Oldsmobile V8 diesel. He is a farmer that converted a tractor pulling tractor back into a field use tractor by replacing the souped up Chevy small block with one of these Olds engines and used it to pull a hay baler. The job only demanded about 50 hp. well in the range of this engine. The set up also sipped diesel fuel which the farmer enjoyed. Not the typical use of this engine, but one it excelled at.
The worst engine I've had to deal with was the 2.3L 140 CID four cylinder in the Vega. It was a aluminum alloy cylinder block with cast-iron cylinder head and single overhead camshaft. The block was open-deck with siamesed cylinder bores. Terrible design. The engine frequently blew head gasket and you ended up with milk shake in the crankcase and 99% of the time, failed bottom end.
It was the iron cylinder head and the silicon bore surfaces that caused all of the problems. Open deck blocks with siamesed cylinders are an absolute thing these days.
@@silicon212 Interesting, never understood what the Silicon did except reduce friction. I figured it was excessive heat caused by the siamesed bores. Learn something new everyday
@@Barry718Johnson They used the silicon in lieu of an iron sleeve as a surface for the piston to travel. Silicon is hard and they figured it would make for a perfect wear surface. They were right, but they didn't anticipate the oil control issues they'd have with it (did you ever see one that didn't smoke?) ... the piston was aluminum but had to be iron plated in order to live against the silicon bore.
I feel like he missed one by not mentioning the iron duke engine from GM. I owned a 1987 buick century, and I hated trying to merge into traffic, especially on the interstate because the engine didn't have the power to merge confidently. Even worse, it would shut off (without warning of course) for reasons unknown, and I remember my headers glowed red when I tried to drive up an incline. It was the only car that I abandoned and never gave it a second thought when the city towed it away for good.
The iron duke was slow but reliable.
@@12yearssober Maybe your experience was different. However, I never heard anyone ever say, "Man, I'm gonna take my chevy citation, and drive it from coast to coast!"
Know why it was never said...because it was a shitty car with a shitty "iron duke" engine! They weren't reliable whatsoever! Get lost troll
Sounds like a plugged cat converter , I had the same issue.
Actually, the legit iron Duke motors were from 1979 to 1984, then they were aluminum blocks that some were junk in 1985 and newer.
I loved the Iron duke - coupled to a Borg-Warner 5 speed it could be made to move, ran 200k+, never used a drop of oil.
I had a 1985 GM 454 that consumed 1 quart of oil for every 16 gallons of gasoline. This was a brand new truck from the dealer. It did not smoke or leak anywhere. No spillage. It was a carbureted engine. Ran great but you better have a case of oil with you when going somewhere. The dealer, naturally, wouldn't rectify the problem. I also had a 1981 Ford 1 ton 460 which would consume 44 gallons of gas going 208 miles. Would pull a house down but a gas guzzler. It didn't last long either. Neither one of those engines were modified in any way but straight from the factory.
WHY TAKE ANY CHANCES WITH YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY. WHEN YOU KNOW ANY HONDA OR TOYOTA WILL BE TROUBLE FREE ? NOT GOOD ENOUGH? GO LEXUS, ACURA INFINITY. PROBLEM SOLVED.
The Toyota 3vzE… you forgot it’s sibling the 3vz-FE from the Camry that was DOHC, and had head gasket problems. It was also hell to work on in that body vs it’s successor the 1MZ-FE, which brought slugging oil and a class action law suit.
My old 01 f150 spat 3 plugs in its life. The first time it happened I was horrified. After number 2 I had the repair done in a half hour. By number 3 I just kept a kit in the glove box and retorqued them every so often. I found it would usually give you a fair amount of warning before it happened. It would tick / putt in a way that made you think it had a manifold leak (which they were also known for), after learning that I never lost another 😂
Ford 300 i6, the king of gas engines for durability and work
With the slant and amc 258 being close seconds but timing chain for the amc and small for the 170-200-225 slants
The slants don't die.
It's a real shock to learn about the spark plug issue on the 5.4 triton. My dad has a 2005 E350 with the 5.4 and it's given us no trouble at all. We've hauled lots of lumber, several cars, and a decently heavy trailer with it, its handled 18 years of intermittent use. When does the sparkplug issue come up?
I think the Econolines motor is slightly different than the F series. I have a 06 e250 and same as you,it’s been great!
The early engines suffered the issue. The later designed they added more spark plug threads. They could still spit out plugs though if they weren't tightened during a tune up
@@reweydewy must be real fun to do. I had to ask my mechanic to change them on three separate trips in through its oil changes until I finally pretty much demanded it haha.
@@reweydewy 👍
5.7 liter Chevrolet, very reliable, it was manufactured for over 40 years, there is a reason for that!
I have a RAM 1500. My 5.7 hemi is an absolute gem of a motor. It is as quiet as can be. My secret? I don't idle it. Idling is bad for any motor.
The 5.4 also had a lot of issues with exhaust manifolds. The studs would break because they were too small. The really 3V versions also had a 2 piece spark plug that was notorious for having the bottom half size into the cylinder head and having to be extracted. Also bad for oil pressure issues due to poorly designed VCT systems, namely the timing tensioner seals failing and dumping oil pressure.
The best part is that even the single piece replacements can easily still seize in place, at which point they tend to BECOME a two piece when you go to remove them. Good thing they moved the fuel rails for better access to the ignition coils 🤣
I worked in a small Oldsmobile dealer on the West Coast during 1980/1. It was an embarrassing situation; it was a family owned dealership that was around for many years and the diesel engine failures did them in.
Oldsmobile had besides the 5.7 diesel, they had for one or two years a 260 v8 diesel that was available as well.
It wasn't bad enough that the 5.7 unit wasn't very powerful, the 260 unit was even more gutless and you could even get it in the full sized station wagon with the TH200!
We were at one point, with factory approval, swapping engines from the new cars in stock if the customer complained enough and at one point we had more cars apart than the combined total of new and used cars! The dealership was sold to another organization a little while later.
BTW, the Ford 2.0 liter sohc should be on this list. (Not the Pinto/Capri engine) The engine used in the Escort/Lynx? made by Ford. It dropped valve seats in many engines before 80k; in the dealership I was at, they wouldn't sell an Escort without the ESP (extended service plan) because the engine failures were so common. My 97 Escort wagon engine dropped its valve seat at 65mph and totally destroyed my motor. I bought the plan and sold the car after the complete engine was replaced by ESP coverage.
The 3.5 Ford Duratec engine has an internal water pump thats prone to fail and to replace it the timing chains have to be removed and replaced. Resulting in a 2K or so job that's if you catch it before the coolant ruins the engine
Gm 6.5L Turbo diesel is an absolute turd 💩. The 6.6L Duramax ain’t any better either. Once they hit 150k miles they just fall apart.
How about the Vega engine, they could be fixed but it was a real pain.
Ford would not warranty his bronco he had to take a loan out $12,000 loan to pay for the engine he paid $70,000 for that bronco 💩
Do a whole segment on the 5.7 Hemi. Please.
5.7 Hemi should not even be an honorable mention. Ive never heard of hemis “knocking there whole life” They are very reliable engines aside from broken exhaust manifold bolts
Mine sure has almost 300k on it and over 10000 engine hours. That thing doesn’t owe me anything if it blows tomorrow. Just done exhaust manifolds in it other then that it hasn’t been touched.
@@tylerfegan1386 110k on mine. Got some bolt ons and making 400whp. I beat on her a lot but i keep up with oil changes and other minor maintenance parts. The only issue ive ever had was 2 broken exhaust bolts. Didnt even know they were broken until i went to put long tube headers on.
I was waiting for the subaru head gasket nightmare. Oh well!
That was very short lived and only on a few years of a 4cylinder. Way over hyped! I've ran the piss out of my 2007 3.0 6cyl and still runs like new after 160,000. Subbies tend to run a bit hotter than most engines. A well maintained cooling system is a must. In fact, all aluminum heads on all brands can easily warp when driven while overheating. The greater problem there is the operator not pulling over and shutting it off when they have an overheating issue.
@@ltwig476 My Subaru 3.0 H6 Sedan is running on original head-gaskets after 20 years/280,00 miles.
As an owner of a 3VZE, yeah they need some extra lovin' in the coolant department.They still run! I work on my 3VZE often as it's 30 years old, but It's still a solid rig.
@7:41 "cruisin down the street in my 8...6...4"
Northstar was a great engine once they solved the head gasket problem. Have had three of them.
I have a 2.2l Mopar and for what it is isn't that bad.Overall mpg is around 20 as after 95k miles has been pretty reliable. Granted having a 4 cyl mopar engine in no way compares to Mopar engines in its heyday but it did help save Chrysler. Too it will not set speed records but always starts and gets the job done!
If it doesn't blow a head gasket !!!
@@garyalford9394 If you are smart you pay a little more $ and get the Mopar Performance Head Gasket .
20 mpg out of a 4 cylinders? Come on
@@richeywcassel how many miles should I be getting for a 3000 pound car with 93 hp?
The downsized heir of the old Slant Six
My dad’s 2002 6.8 v10 just spit a plug this morning
That depends on whether it's a 2 valve or a 3 , 4 valve.
2 valves are bulletproof
Great video until the very end when you called the 2.2 liter Mopar an absolute turd. I had one in my 1988 Plymouth Horizon back in the day. It felt quite peppy compared to other small cars of the day, got 35 mpg and lasted 280,000 miles. The transaxle and clutch on that car were weaker components than the engine.
Head gaskets and timing belts were easy fixes. Bang for the buck....they were great!
Easy to stop the fuel spray when the triton engine spits out a spark plug. All you gotta do is unplug the injector and coil for that cylinder. You still gotta deal with the compression noise. But the under hood fire Hazzard is greatly reduced.
6.4L powerstroke, Chrysler 2.7/3.7/4.7, GM 3.6L… I’m sure there are other candidates but this is what comes to mind
My experience has been the 3.6 GM engine was "fixed" in 2012 for the most part. We owned several old body style and new body style Impala's with those engines with 6 speed transmissions and power, fuel mileage and longevity was great. I don't know if the Traverse crossovers had a different engine version or if just the weight and wind resistance was just more work than the 3.6 was willing to do.
The Rover V8 (3.5l, 3.9l, and 4.0l) is still my favorite V8 to wrench on, it has way more pros then cons. The all-aluminum Buick 215 block was way ahead of it's time. The best 4x4 Land Rovers ever made were all powered by this lightweight and torquey little block. The Range Rover Classic, Discovery 1, and Classic Defender are arguably the best solid axle 4x4s ever made, and the reliability of the Gems and Thor engine management systems is actually quite impressive. They do have one real weakness, and it is overheating them. Maintaining the cooling system is absolutely critical. Most of the slipped liners are results of overheating, and can be rectified with a set of top hat liners and minor machine work on their eminent rebuild. I wish a performance company would engineer and build a performance block for this V8. It is a great little platform to build on, but good machinable crank cases are becoming rare. Still, I would rather keep wrenching on my Rover then repower it with something else.
It's literally one of the worst engines of all time. The rose colored glasses need to come off. It nearly bankrupted the company. Land Rover has been the least reliable automaker in the world for decades.
@@strongereveryday2302 One could argue that it was overall mismanagement that nearly bankrupted the company as opposed to a hunk of metal. Machines don't bankrupt businesses, people do. Land Rover chose to throw money at problems as opposed to doing the work to correct their issues at the root of the cause. There are plenty examples of well built, and solid performing Buick 215/ Rover V8 engines. The fact remains, swap 8 parts and retool a boring operation, and you have an engine that is not at all radically different than the old iron GM block that everyone loves so much, but you come in a couple hundred pounds lighter. I don't wear glasses, I see clearly.
@@strongereveryday2302 I've had several LRs, and also 2 v8 Rover SD1s - never any problems with the engine at all on any of them, although placing the coil packs between the back of the engine and the bulkhead is downright annoying on the 4.0. Land Rover is the least reliable automaker because everything else on them is shit ! Hydraulic self leveling suspension - aluminium distribution block and (non-stainless) steel pipes - weld in place and the distribution block costs £2500. Air suspension - first you know that there is a leak in the airbag is when the compressor burns out - £350. Leaks like crazy through the sunroofs. Dodgy ABS (google the 3 amigos). My last LR was a Disco 2 - I gather that the ones subsequently are just a disaster from a maintenance viewpoint ; by the time you get warned off them by an independent LR specialist, it's time to buy a Jeep. I had a Grand Wagoneer which was an utter piece of crap; so horribly and cheaply made with dodgy electrics worthy of a 1970s british car. Jeep Wrangler which was stunningly reliable. Now a hemi powered Grand Cherokee - no problems with the engine at all, runs as sweet as a nut after 100K miles.
Woah now, 5.7L HEMI is not a bad engine and they last. Definitely not the best engine out there but it will run many many miles
Or crap out before hitting 30k miles like mine did..the hemi is junk.
2018 1.5L 4cyl Ecoboost One went due to detonation. Took 3 months to get parts and change it. 14 days after I got it back the new one EXPOLDED in smoke and flame in the middle of a busy hi-way. Dealer said the block was defective. I did not wait to find out how long it would take to fix this time. I traded it on a 2.0L Ecoboost. It's been fine.
Is a knock on cold start the same as piston slap? My 02 WS6 always had that clack clack clack on cold start. Ls1s are notorious for piston slap. My Toyota also has piston slap. 2grfe engine.