If you wanna gross yourself out, this is one of the things they did to my arm during surgery - thus the wheels on the QuickJack: ruclips.net/video/N5T7ArJo6Q4/видео.html
QJ doesn’t actually sell a kit. The one that presents itself in the title as a QJ kit is actually an independent guy in a fab shop. Quality parts, but overpriced greatly for the parts and labor involved.
Yes, I saw at etsy that a Quick Jack Kit sold from Canada in a 3D printing design with a pair of clips for the hydraulic lines to connect it to the frame for 336 Euro to Germany. The easiest and cheapest way will be from @AlexLTDLX
and you should also add flat super magnets neodymium to keep the bottom section closed, at 3:34 so that it lifts it off the floor, then it will roll nice
Thanks. I had the same notion - the money wasn't worth it for those wheels. If that guy would just be realistic about his price point, he'd probably move 10x as many units.
Practical inexpensive solution with off-the-shelf components. Just the kind I like. The $300 versions are really only about $100 of material and labor if sourced right. All the rest is profit. For what it is, I’ll take the off-the-shelf approach all day every day 👍
Great idea! While the steel brackets many are using to add casters are nice, it's sorta overkill for this application. Zip ties are fast, cheap and light. Love it!!!
Another bonus feature is that you can locate the wheels exactly where you want them and achieve maximum clearance. Some of the other "solutions" raise the assembly higher and that may complicate how you utilize your blocks, especially if your car is low.
This has worked for me flawlessly for years now (maybe a few new zip ties here and there when they dry out etc but .10 cents and a 20 second fix every couple of years is no issue) As far as the rails at the 3:30 mark go, a couple of rare earth magnets (near the sliding safety rail) on the frame rails solves that without any problems - pulls the rails tight and releases them when the lift is going up. Just an FYI to give it a shot (gives some extra clearance when you're rolling them too). Cheers!!
Outstanding Sir and hoping the shoulder is on the mend by now. Just ordered a 12 pack of the 2" 360 degree swivel wheels on ebay for $17 and free shipping. This is just so much better, quicker, simpler and cheaper than the dedicated brackets and threaded shafts and such that are sold to simply move the lifts around. Brilliant! Thank you.
I like it! You might want to add a note in case somebody get the wise idea to permanently install them that drilling or welding the supports isn't recommended. Just my two cents.
I tried this way even with gorilla double sided tape .then zip ties. Now one you can strap it on one end but I couldn't on the other because of the flange. And while I was working on the other end the casters fell of they other. Soooo I decided to use self taping screws and what do you know it rolls great. On top of that it's solid and maybe took me 20 minutes to drill and screw in. I wasted pretty much and hr playing with those zip tie I was skeptical about that anyway about how long that would last especially since I would use it on a tar driveway. I recommend that you drill and put self tapping screws then you know it will stay. Just use a step-down drill and socket on your milwaukee quick change Chuck and your good to go. But it's just a suggestion. Thanks for the casters idea. Happy Holidays!
Well, I couldn't use the link you provided in your description to get the wheels because there's no stock available. I found another 8 pack that is approx 1/8" shorter in height. Glad I found this video. I couldn't see paying $275 for a wheel kit when I only paid $900 for my QJ lift! Thanks for posting!
Following your video instructions. I was able to find 1 1/4" casters with the mounting plate the same width of rails on ebay (bought in a 12 pk) mounted them on the rails with self tapping screws. Suggest drilling smaller pilot holes first - the rails are about .063 thick and makes mounting job a lot easier and a more permanent fix. Just measure back from front of rail to front edge of caster plate on each end of rail, turn rail over , hold caster in place drill dimples for pilot holes remove caster, drill pilot holes using a smaller drill bit and mount caster using self tapping screws. Dims. will be the same on second rail. Takes a little more time but I think worth it and now I don't worry about cable ties snapping.
I thought about doing that; but didn't want to drill into the quickjack for liability reasons - though it's probably fine. The ties snapping isn't really an issue - but the wheels can move around a little; so far I haven't had to adjust mine. Thanks for the idea - this was just a quick thing to help me out post-shoulder surgery.
@@AlexLTDLX I really liked your idea and video, it was very helpful. I understood you were limited on your options and hope you are doing better now. I was just looking for more of a permanent fix on my set. Keep up the good work and look forward to more videos.
@@terryturner7110 I am. Thanks. It was one of those "temporary until needing to be changed" things. So far the zip ties have been working fine; so temporary has become permanent.
Lol. Thanks. But I want to be "the man" for my electric turbo that actually works (on a real, 500hp N/A V8) rather than zip tying wheels to a jack. Check it out: ruclips.net/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/видео.html But thanks for the kind words!
Maybe using good quality double sided tape between the casters and the frames would be an extra measure added to the zip ties so the castors can still be stuck in place? At least for heavier jacks? Just an idea.
Thanks for saving me $360. I was looking at the kit with the steel brackets and they wanted that much for it. It’s kind of overkill and doesn’t serve much purpose other than being used to easily move the thing on the floor.
I really liked this idea and I bought all of the parts and pieces and installed them per the video. Great idea, but unfortunately it didn't work on my QuickJack 7000 model. It's just too heavy and the wheels failed almost immediately. It would probably work on the 5000 models though.
I got the wheels at Home Depot. I found that the casters would slide when I would slide the quick jack under the car. I reset the casters on my quickjack, only this time I crossed the zip ties when I tighten them. This seemed to hold the wheels to frame tighter. In my limited use so far, it appears that they are wheels are not sliding long the rails.
It's a great idea but I found an interference problem on the 'handle' side the QJ. The swivel caster wheel (same model on the link above) interferes with the base and does not rotate fully. Also, when in use and lowering down the wheel may crash against the base and block the platform from fully lowering. Did you experience this?
I got your email and replied to that. But for anybody reading the comments, no I did not experience any interference maybe you just need to reposition the casters a bit?
The 7000TL/TLX is considerably heavier than the 5000 series. For weight load bearing purposes of the wheels you used, which model of QuickJack did you do this on? I have the 7000 series and am thinking a larger (1.5") caster might be needed for greater weight capacity?
I meant $250 US for the QuickJack truck adapters... I'm cheap but not stupid.... $2 would be a deal... btw... to get them hear (Canada) its around 450 cnd... yeah... sure.. Ill jump on that
I bought a bundle today with the truck adapters for a good deal. But I think I'm going to go the wood route as well with some 6x6 beams to extend my quickjack frame to fit other cars that have longer lift spreads.
Good idea but keep in mind you are adding to the minimum lowered height of the jack by adding wheels, the increased amount dependent upon where you position the wheels.
The wheels just barely lift the quickjacks off the ground - they're actually in the slop range of the quickjacks. Once you wheel them in place, you can literally push them down by hand onto the ground.
@@AlexLTDLX The other day I bought eight 5/8" ball bearing casters at Harbor Freight @ $1 each for my new 5000TL QuickJack. I pop riveted them to the underside of the lfting frames but probably could have used ties to avoid drilling holes. Works very well, and like you said, made little increase to the height of the jack. I have a very smooth garage floor, otherwise would have gone with small rubber wheels. I thank you for showing us your affordable solution.
@@GrabberBlue5.2 The 5/8" works well for me as I have a smooth floor, and a lowered car, so I needed to keep jacks as low to ground as possible to position them under my car. You have to be careful where you place the wheels - do some experimenting- as you want them to leave the ground while raising and before the jack contacts your vehicle under carriage, otherwise the wheels will be crushed as you raise the vehicle. They only serve to maneuver the jacks in place. The 5/8" wheel size barely works, don't go smaller. If I hadn't lowered my car, would have went with 1".
@@GrabberBlue5.2 Another very important tip to every new owner is to be extra careful when lowering the jacks after working on your vehicle. Sometimes one side will unfortunateky relock on the safety while descending, but not the other side, and the car will dangerously tip to the side still going down, possibly falling off the jack, with very ugly consequences. You have to watch both sides when lowering the jack to see that the vehicle descends level. If it doesn't, then immediately raise the jack and start over with the lowering. The locks are supposed to unlock automatically when doing the lowering sequence but you can't trust them, and might have to do it manually, as I found out. The owners manual merely mentions this issue.
The link is in the description. If it's not showing up or working for you, try this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLPJJ7D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07GLPJJ7D&linkCode=as2&tag=alexandempika-20&linkId=bf4894de10278c6ce35205efd63240b8
If you wanna gross yourself out, this is one of the things they did to my arm during surgery - thus the wheels on the QuickJack: ruclips.net/video/N5T7ArJo6Q4/видео.html
Very clever how physicians can repair almost anything.
I just saw a QJ kit sold for $320 ...about to close eyes and pull the trigger until I found this video... YOU'RE THE BEST
Thx. I couldn't justify that price either.
QJ doesn’t actually sell a kit. The one that presents itself in the title as a QJ kit is actually an independent guy in a fab shop. Quality parts, but overpriced greatly for the parts and labor involved.
Yes, I saw at etsy that a Quick Jack Kit sold from Canada in a 3D printing design with a pair of clips for the hydraulic lines to connect it to the frame for 336 Euro to Germany. The easiest and cheapest way will be from @AlexLTDLX
I wish I had seen this after I was recovering from chemo - thank you!
No worries. Hope you're doing better now.
and you should also add flat super magnets neodymium to keep the bottom section closed, at 3:34 so that it lifts it off the floor, then it will roll nice
Man i used your idea. Home depot has a 4 pack of small casters for 5-6 dollars. Was a cheap eady quick add on. Thanks for the video.
Great idea. There was another post you could buy a kit ready to install, but I couldn't justify spending $300 your idea worked perfectly.
Thanks. I had the same notion - the money wasn't worth it for those wheels. If that guy would just be realistic about his price point, he'd probably move 10x as many units.
Practical inexpensive solution with off-the-shelf components. Just the kind I like. The $300 versions are really only about $100 of material and labor if sourced right. All the rest is profit. For what it is, I’ll take the off-the-shelf approach all day every day 👍
Great idea! While the steel brackets many are using to add casters are nice, it's sorta overkill for this application. Zip ties are fast, cheap and light. Love it!!!
Another bonus feature is that you can locate the wheels exactly where you want them and achieve maximum clearance. Some of the other "solutions" raise the assembly higher and that may complicate how you utilize your blocks, especially if your car is low.
Thanks for the Tip! Helps a old dude moving these things around on the floor!!
Glad it helped.
This has worked for me flawlessly for years now (maybe a few new zip ties here and there when they dry out etc but .10 cents and a 20 second fix every couple of years is no issue) As far as the rails at the 3:30 mark go, a couple of rare earth magnets (near the sliding safety rail) on the frame rails solves that without any problems - pulls the rails tight and releases them when the lift is going up. Just an FYI to give it a shot (gives some extra clearance when you're rolling them too). Cheers!!
Good idea. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice and simple addition for these. Worked like a charm for me. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Man, what a big help. Makes moving those jack stands with little effort. Thanks for the video.
Glad to help
Outstanding Sir and hoping the shoulder is on the mend by now. Just ordered a 12 pack of the 2" 360 degree swivel wheels on ebay for $17 and free shipping. This is just so much better, quicker, simpler and cheaper than the dedicated brackets and threaded shafts and such that are sold to simply move the lifts around. Brilliant! Thank you.
I might put a layer of old tire tube between the caster and the QJ to prevent slippage of the caster over time.
Cheap and easy, fabulous! Good job sir 👍
I like it!
You might want to add a note in case somebody get the wise idea to permanently install them that drilling or welding the supports isn't recommended. Just my two cents.
Fantastic idea.....bought via your link. Thank you for the video and link....Much appreciated!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for the excellent idea. 👍
Decided to go with this. Thanks
Excellent idea! Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching!
I tried this way even with gorilla double sided tape .then zip ties. Now one you can strap it on one end but I couldn't on the other because of the flange. And while I was working on the other end the casters fell of they other. Soooo I decided to use self taping screws and what do you know it rolls great. On top of that it's solid and maybe took me 20 minutes to drill and screw in. I wasted pretty much and hr playing with those zip tie I was skeptical about that anyway about how long that would last especially since I would use it on a tar driveway. I recommend that you drill and put self tapping screws then you know it will stay. Just use a step-down drill and socket on your milwaukee quick change Chuck and your good to go. But it's just a suggestion. Thanks for the casters idea. Happy Holidays!
Great mod Alex!. Clicked your link and ordered the wheels.
Thanks!
Well, I couldn't use the link you provided in your description to get the wheels because there's no stock available. I found another 8 pack that is approx 1/8" shorter in height. Glad I found this video. I couldn't see paying $275 for a wheel kit when I only paid $900 for my QJ lift! Thanks for posting!
That's how I felt about it - $200+ for four casters and a couple of brackets is poor economy.
Following your video instructions. I was able to find 1 1/4" casters with the mounting plate the same width of rails on ebay (bought in a 12 pk) mounted them on the rails with self tapping screws. Suggest drilling smaller pilot holes first - the rails are about .063 thick and makes mounting job a lot easier and a more permanent fix. Just measure back from front of rail to front edge of caster plate on each end of rail, turn rail over , hold caster in place drill dimples for pilot holes remove caster, drill pilot holes using a smaller drill bit and mount caster using self tapping screws. Dims. will be the same on second rail. Takes a little more time but I think worth it and now I don't worry about cable ties snapping.
I thought about doing that; but didn't want to drill into the quickjack for liability reasons - though it's probably fine. The ties snapping isn't really an issue - but the wheels can move around a little; so far I haven't had to adjust mine. Thanks for the idea - this was just a quick thing to help me out post-shoulder surgery.
@@AlexLTDLX I really liked your idea and video, it was very helpful. I understood you were limited on your options and hope you are doing better now. I was just looking for more of a permanent fix on my set. Keep up the good work and look forward to more videos.
@@terryturner7110 I am. Thanks. It was one of those "temporary until needing to be changed" things. So far the zip ties have been working fine; so temporary has become permanent.
@@AlexLTDLX I was thinking about putting thin rubber pads on the top of my casters to help keep them in place and prevent marring the rails.
@@Geonious jb weld them on may be a good try.
Great idea 💡.
Love this. Will give this a try. Thank you!
Something I spotted... Make sure your hose leading into the cylinder has some upward angle to it, otherwise, at full height, you can have a bad kink.
You're the MAN!!
Lol. Thanks. But I want to be "the man" for my electric turbo that actually works (on a real, 500hp N/A V8) rather than zip tying wheels to a jack. Check it out: ruclips.net/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/видео.html But thanks for the kind words!
Thanks, ordered through your link 👍
Awesome! Thanks for the tip!
Maybe using good quality double sided tape between the casters and the frames would be an extra measure added to the zip ties so the castors can still be stuck in place? At least for heavier jacks? Just an idea.
Not a bad idea at that. Thanks for watching!
I feel your pain from shoulder surgery. I've had it myself 12 years ago.
It was rough. A little more than a year later though, it's much better than it was before. Hope yours is also better.
Thanks for saving me $360. I was looking at the kit with the steel brackets and they wanted that much for it. It’s kind of overkill and doesn’t serve much purpose other than being used to easily move the thing on the floor.
Thank you!
I really liked this idea and I bought all of the parts and pieces and installed them per the video. Great idea, but unfortunately it didn't work on my QuickJack 7000 model. It's just too heavy and the wheels failed almost immediately. It would probably work on the 5000 models though.
maybe jb weld them on?
I want nearly the same with my 7000TL Model to move it easier on the floor.
I got the wheels at Home Depot. I found that the casters would slide when I would slide the quick jack under the car. I reset the casters on my quickjack, only this time I crossed the zip ties when I tighten them. This seemed to hold the wheels to frame tighter. In my limited use so far, it appears that they are wheels are not sliding long the rails.
Maybe it would help to use double side adhesive tape, or a little bit silicone to fix the position on the frame together with the crossed zip ties.
It's a great idea but I found an interference problem on the 'handle' side the QJ. The swivel caster wheel (same model on the link above) interferes with the base and does not rotate fully. Also, when in use and lowering down the wheel may crash against the base and block the platform from fully lowering. Did you experience this?
I got your email and replied to that. But for anybody reading the comments, no I did not experience any interference maybe you just need to reposition the casters a bit?
@@AlexLTDLX I understand that. On the new 5000TL the wheel interferes with the inside rail (cannot rotate inwards) no matter where positioned.
@@sportscarnut i have a 5000 TL, did you find a way to make it work?
The 7000TL/TLX is considerably heavier than the 5000 series. For weight load bearing purposes of the wheels you used, which model of QuickJack did you do this on?
I have the 7000 series and am thinking a larger (1.5") caster might be needed for greater weight capacity?
The 5,000 series. That's a good point.
smart! thanks
El-Cheapo bows to your frugal ways... For truck adapter kits at over $2 US, cut a 6x6 block to fit tight into the tray.
I meant $250 US for the QuickJack truck adapters... I'm cheap but not stupid.... $2 would be a deal... btw... to get them hear (Canada) its around 450 cnd... yeah... sure.. Ill jump on that
I bought a bundle today with the truck adapters for a good deal. But I think I'm going to go the wood route as well with some 6x6 beams to extend my quickjack frame to fit other cars that have longer lift spreads.
Good idea but keep in mind you are adding to the minimum lowered height of the jack by adding wheels, the increased amount dependent upon where you position the wheels.
The wheels just barely lift the quickjacks off the ground - they're actually in the slop range of the quickjacks. Once you wheel them in place, you can literally push them down by hand onto the ground.
@@AlexLTDLX The other day I bought eight 5/8" ball bearing casters at Harbor Freight @ $1 each for my new 5000TL QuickJack. I pop riveted them to the underside of the lfting frames but probably could have used ties to avoid drilling holes. Works very well, and like you said, made little increase to the height of the jack. I have a very smooth garage floor, otherwise would have gone with small rubber wheels. I thank you for showing us your affordable solution.
@@johnmcmullen456 i just got a 5000 TL. should i get 1" or like you get 5/8"? i am heading to HF today in fact. any tips thanks.
@@GrabberBlue5.2 The 5/8" works well for me as I have a smooth floor, and a lowered car, so I needed to keep jacks as low to ground as possible to position them under my car. You have to be careful where you place the wheels - do some experimenting- as you want them to leave the ground while raising and before the jack contacts your vehicle under carriage, otherwise the wheels will be crushed as you raise the vehicle. They only serve to maneuver the jacks in place. The 5/8" wheel size barely works, don't go smaller. If I hadn't lowered my car, would have went with 1".
@@GrabberBlue5.2 Another very important tip to every new owner is to be extra careful when lowering the jacks after working on your vehicle. Sometimes one side will unfortunateky relock on the safety while descending, but not the other side, and the car will dangerously tip to the side still going down, possibly falling off the jack, with very ugly consequences. You have to watch both sides when lowering the jack to see that the vehicle descends level. If it doesn't, then immediately raise the jack and start over with the lowering. The locks are supposed to unlock automatically when doing the lowering sequence but you can't trust them, and might have to do it manually, as I found out. The owners manual merely mentions this issue.
You mentioned a link to Amazon where you purchased the casters. Didn’t see it, can you provide that. Thanks.
The link is in the description. If it's not showing up or working for you, try this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLPJJ7D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07GLPJJ7D&linkCode=as2&tag=alexandempika-20&linkId=bf4894de10278c6ce35205efd63240b8
How much height do they add? I like idea but don't have a lot of height to play with. thanks.
Something like 1/4" - barely anything. As soon as the quickjacks go up, they add nothing at all because they travel with the arms.
Awesome!
brilliant!
I wish I would have invented zip ties!
You and me both.
Interesting
Everyone (me included) can't resist to take a HF jab. 😉