This project was a big undertaking! I had to do all the R&D myself which took a long time. Follow me on IG to know i'm still alive and well :D I would never abandon you guys!
major props to you my man. years worth of forum posts and topics into one 30 min video. i wish you made this 2 weeks ago when i was fixing my ae92 tach to work with a megasquirt👍👏👏
This video is way helpful, it took me forever to get the tach in my 94 tercel to work right with the distributorless 5e-fe swap i did and am still having issues getting the A/C to receive a proper tach signal to idle up properly and stuff. This gives me new directions to try.
Going to attempt this to get my celica gtfour tach to work with my new coil on plug setup! Great video, appreciate the time and effort you spent to sort out this issue.
@@sushpants sorry for the late reply, thanks again for this. Finally got the car fired up for the first time yesterday. Tachometer works and is accurate. The circuit board for my tach was slightly different but the same idea!
Super cool project. For future reference, you don't need a big box of resistors with switches like what you did to test resistance values. You can buy potentiometers that allow you to turn a knob to vary resistance to do the same thing. Once you have the exact correct resistance, you can record it with a multimeter.
After watching this video I now have a ton of knowledge that I don't need to know but nonetheless very very cool to see the process behind making your tach work! I'm sure it will help a ton of people down the road
Bro, I haven't finished watching the video but it's so easy to get that signal to the tach. Any 5 volt relay connected to the ECU then tap in on the negative side. The megasquirt guys worked it out.
Awesome video! Helped me a lot to get my tacho to work on my mazda 323f BG as it's working exactly the same way and my speeduino ua4c only has low lovel output... Thank you!!
Your videos have so much useful information! I really appreciate you making these as I'm sure you're helping out a lot of Toyota enthusiasts. I myself have a ST162 Celica which definitely has the same tach controller as yours. I will definitely be referring back to this video in the future. Thanks again!
Thanks for this video I have an ae101 myself and recently bought a super rare TRD cluster with a resistor that shat itself so this gives me confidence in fixing it myself
The needle/spring setup is built onto the board of the tercel/paseo/cynos/sera/starlet clusters unlike the corollas, so the sweep/range resistor only needs to be changed if you want to change the faces (turbo starlet cluster has a higher redline). *saves video to favourites *
I saw this video about a year and a half to two years ago and told myself to make a mental note and forgot but just got reintroduced as I have the exact same issue. coincidentally i’m running essentially the exact same setup; 7age silvertop (close enough), 1nz coil conversion, and a link ecu. Only difference is i’m in a 6th generation celica but hopefully this’ll work just fine
Thank god you uploaded this. I'm in the process of converting my 4A-FE swapped Tercel wagon to coil on plug and I was worried about getting the tach right.
Awesome stuff mate. I don't own and never have owned a Toyota but that's really not the point. Your content is always stuffed with useful information and presented in a pleasant and relaxing manner. Kudos and keep up the good work!
You've actually inspired me to get an AE82 of my own. I love your car, and to own an AE82 myself would be amazing. I think the one I'm going to look at is SOHC, though.
That's excellent! You'll have a much easier time finding one of the 4AC SOHC powered AE82's than the 4A-GE's versions. Keep an eye out for rust in the wheel wells and behind the molding. Enjoy it! Should be fun :D
Oh my lord the video I was waiting for so long !! I have a couple of JDM and USDM AE86 cluster with uncorrect reading and now I got the knowledge !! Thank you my friend !!
11:13 that tachometer is not from an AE101. That's from an ZZE110 (98-02 US 1ZZ engine). It accepts the low voltage signal, because 98-02 get the signal from the ECU, as all of them use independent coils. The board is slightly bigger, because many electronics changed on 1998. Also, it has an external temp gauge. That's what the LCD displays. On an actual AE101, you still need to do the resistor mod, as the AE101, the signal comes from the Igniter, and it is a high voltage signal. Nice video.
happy to see a new video from you. love the videos and the car! super happy to see the dedication and such details on things too. can’t wait for more autox vids!!
This is incredible! I have been waiting for this for ages. I am so happy hahaha. I am glad the tachometer is sorted. I also just noticed your office chair. That’s so cool! Did you diy that yourself? 😂
Hey mate, great content as always, and extremely useful to me so thank you. Oh, and my 2c on removing the tacho needle, you can also slot the prongs of a fork on either side to pry it off. Cheers!
Fantastic thank you. I'm contemplating a AW11 SC build and I want to maintain the same instrument cluster if at all possible, but with a new ECU. Very helpful.
Awesome video, but instead of using resistor box or bunch of them on breadboard to find the required value, you can just use a potentiometer :) 100k ohm value would be good here. Having it permanently there as you said is not a good idea
I saw some of the potentiometer set ups and liked them. But the resistor box was cheap and worked so well. I used the breadboard for about 10 minutes before I said "there must be a better way of doing this!"
Nice! I have got almost the same problem in my 86 Corolla!! Got same cluster as yours Changed my engine from 20v to 1nzfe for a daily, initially this problem would appear just after 3.5~4k rpm, After doing the harness, it has further pushed to 6~7 k RPM, specially when full beam or turn signal is engagd
@@sushpants Honestly, thank you for making these videos. I can see that you put a lot of effort into this one! Keep up the good work, and I hope the content you have planned is spicy! :)
Haven't finished the video yet but I'm going to hazard a guess and say it has something to do with the old clusters being sine wave vs the new ECU which have square wave signals
Awesome video. On the AW11 MR2, generally people just bypass the resistor but I've never heard of any failures. Would this be worth going back and putting a resistor into?
Will it be enough if we are reaching 10krpm? Edit: just checked i already have a 22k resistor in an AE111 4age... Drop to 16k? Also thank you so much you are an absolute legend
I'm not sure if you mentioned this, but just to be clear, youre still using the coil for the tach, but all you needed to change was the resistor to take a low voltage signal? Didnt need the booster? And when you said youre using the coil for a signal, how are you doing that? I have a 20v swapped 86 i'm looking to use a link ecu with and was planning on figuring out the tach with it, but im not sure how or where i would connect the tach to a coil for a signal. Thanks!
8:51 Hey, off-topic question. I need to disassemble a speedometer that has the same kind of 3D clear ring on it as this AE92 tachometer. Would you please describe how to detach that ring without breaking anything? Has it got screws, clips or glue? Thank you.
Hey sushpants, the tachometer in my ae86 reads about 200rpm high across the range according to my megasquirt. Would it be worth it to try to adjust the tension on those springs? Also when I accelerate in the car through the 2000 to 3000 rpm range the tachometer sort of stops around 2300 sometimes and then "hops" up to 28 or 2900. Any idea why that would happen? Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Awesome informative vid!
@@sushpants I don't belive it raises at all with either the oem ecu nor the megasquirt with the key in the on position not running. I still have the factory distributor when running the oem of coarse or the megasquirt so no mods to the ignition system at all.
On AE86, there’s a hard stop at around 9500 rpm. So I could install needle at below zero rest position. Then move needle to highest rpm until the hard stop makes the needle slips on the axle, do this a few times and see that it goes back to zero when it springs back. However, I’m dealing with a strange tacho right now. It is working correctly when powered, but without voltage, the needle spring is very weak so needle deflects around zero very easy if I lean the cluster housing. Not sure how to go about that?
Hi, I have a AE82 FX with a 4A-C and a half broken gauge cluster (nothing besides the speedometer works) I want to get a cluster with a tachometer, but I don’t want a standard FX-16 gauge cluster due to the 7500rpm redline vs. the 4A-C’s 6000rpm redline. Is there a way I could transplant a AE86 SR5 tachometer into a FX-16 gauge cluster, along with my current cluster’s speedometer?
Please don't disappear again 🥺
This project was a big undertaking! I had to do all the R&D myself which took a long time. Follow me on IG to know i'm still alive and well :D I would never abandon you guys!
this was wholesome
major props to you my man. years worth of forum posts and topics into one 30 min video. i wish you made this 2 weeks ago when i was fixing my ae92 tach to work with a megasquirt👍👏👏
Best 30 minutes of my life well spent
This video is way helpful, it took me forever to get the tach in my 94 tercel to work right with the distributorless 5e-fe swap i did and am still having issues getting the A/C to receive a proper tach signal to idle up properly and stuff. This gives me new directions to try.
Going to attempt this to get my celica gtfour tach to work with my new coil on plug setup! Great video, appreciate the time and effort you spent to sort out this issue.
It might look a little different but the concept should be the same.
@@sushpants sorry for the late reply, thanks again for this. Finally got the car fired up for the first time yesterday. Tachometer works and is accurate. The circuit board for my tach was slightly different but the same idea!
As usual, sushpants is doing God's work with these videos.
Super cool project. For future reference, you don't need a big box of resistors with switches like what you did to test resistance values. You can buy potentiometers that allow you to turn a knob to vary resistance to do the same thing. Once you have the exact correct resistance, you can record it with a multimeter.
Finally the fallow up to the ecu video, long awaited for this! Cant wait to see the whole car come back together and get back on the road.
I couldn't just gloss over a non-functional tach :D
You should add a module that plays Toto when you put your key in the ignition
This is the video I didn’t know I needed... analysis of these old car electronics is so cool
After watching this video I now have a ton of knowledge that I don't need to know but nonetheless very very cool to see the process behind making your tach work! I'm sure it will help a ton of people down the road
Bro, I haven't finished watching the video but it's so easy to get that signal to the tach. Any 5 volt relay connected to the ECU then tap in on the negative side. The megasquirt guys worked it out.
Love this channel, but didn't know you were a fan of Cyanide and Happiness, too. That's pretty cool! Glad you're making new videos.
Yeah, i've been a fan since the beginning. I got that purple shirted eye stabber plushie from being a backer on Kickstarter back in the day.
Awesome video! Helped me a lot to get my tacho to work on my mazda 323f BG as it's working exactly the same way and my speeduino ua4c only has low lovel output...
Thank you!!
Thanks! Did the Mazda tach have a similar setup with its tach controller board?
Your videos have so much useful information! I really appreciate you making these as I'm sure you're helping out a lot of Toyota enthusiasts. I myself have a ST162 Celica which definitely has the same tach controller as yours. I will definitely be referring back to this video in the future. Thanks again!
I made this video for myself, in the past. Hopefully the the video helps you out too, Daniel! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video I have an ae101 myself and recently bought a super rare TRD cluster with a resistor that shat itself so this gives me confidence in fixing it myself
The needle/spring setup is built onto the board of the tercel/paseo/cynos/sera/starlet clusters unlike the corollas, so the sweep/range resistor only needs to be changed if you want to change the faces (turbo starlet cluster has a higher redline). *saves video to favourites *
Where is the sweep/ range resistor on the board?
This is an excellent video with such great information! Thank you so much, you're a legend; Keep doing what you're doing.
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
There are not enough like buttons. Thank you sooooo much. I will now finally calibrate by Tach.
I saw this video about a year and a half to two years ago and told myself to make a mental note and forgot but just got reintroduced as I have the exact same issue. coincidentally i’m running essentially the exact same setup; 7age silvertop (close enough), 1nz coil conversion, and a link ecu. Only difference is i’m in a 6th generation celica but hopefully this’ll work just fine
Thank god you uploaded this.
I'm in the process of converting my 4A-FE swapped Tercel wagon to coil on plug and I was worried about getting the tach right.
Dang that's what I call a lot of troubleshooting. Thanks for the video.
thanks a lot man, just thanks
that saved me quite a heap of work, great value!
Awesome stuff mate. I don't own and never have owned a Toyota but that's really not the point. Your content is always stuffed with useful information and presented in a pleasant and relaxing manner. Kudos and keep up the good work!
I love the music that you use in this video!
This video just saved me from a lot of stress. Thank you
Great presentation, thanks for us old school gear heads.
Thats the early MR2 cluster; cooler than the later revision. The Corolla tach I like though, watching it swing all the way around
are you talking about the SW20 cluster? I agree with you, watching the Corolla needle swing way over is very satisfying.
@@sushpants I mean the MK1A and MK1B. The MK1 MR2 got an update around 1986
You've actually inspired me to get an AE82 of my own. I love your car, and to own an AE82 myself would be amazing. I think the one I'm going to look at is SOHC, though.
That's excellent! You'll have a much easier time finding one of the 4AC SOHC powered AE82's than the 4A-GE's versions. Keep an eye out for rust in the wheel wells and behind the molding. Enjoy it! Should be fun :D
@@sushpants Thanks dude!
@@sushpants I’ve got the Corolla, ZERO rust. Single cam 5 speed in great shape, although it will need a head due to a stripped spark plug hole.
Great video topic and presentation. I don’t have any need for this but watched the whole video.
Oh my lord the video I was waiting for so long !! I have a couple of JDM and USDM AE86 cluster with uncorrect reading and now I got the knowledge !! Thank you my friend !!
I'll be needing this soon when I start my 4a gze ..
Absolutely amazing..brilliant work....
Thank you
Will try to use the resistor mod in my ae111 levin gauge. It was only reading about 8.7k when i rev to 9k range 😅. Thank you bro!!
that board is a beauty man!
I also have one station w/ 2 hands, they come in pretty handy
Thanks! The station is my pride and joy now :D
Finally an update vid from your build! Been waiting for this for ages! 😍
As a circuit specialist, I want to see a teardown of your tach tester and also will be glad to see the waveform it outputs.
I'm not even performing any modifications to the tach and I found this entertaining and interesting as hell. Good work, Sir. Sub'd!
11:13 that tachometer is not from an AE101. That's from an ZZE110 (98-02 US 1ZZ engine). It accepts the low voltage signal, because 98-02 get the signal from the ECU, as all of them use independent coils. The board is slightly bigger, because many electronics changed on 1998. Also, it has an external temp gauge. That's what the LCD displays.
On an actual AE101, you still need to do the resistor mod, as the AE101, the signal comes from the Igniter, and it is a high voltage signal.
Nice video.
You are the Man!!! Much respect for all your hard work!!
i don't even own a toyota, or a car of any kind yet, this was just interesting to watch :V
happy to see a new video from you. love the videos and the car! super happy to see the dedication and such details on things too. can’t wait for more autox vids!!
Way to go figuring that out!
Damn that makes me sad to see this nice MR2 on the yunkjard...😔
Best video ever watched on RUclips
This is incredible! I have been waiting for this for ages. I am so happy hahaha. I am glad the tachometer is sorted. I also just noticed your office chair. That’s so cool! Did you diy that yourself? 😂
Thanks Justin! The chair is out of a e30 M3 and it was gifted to me about 10 years ago by a good friend. It works great and is really comfortable.
Am looking for a 7afe engine or block
Glad you got it fixed, love the content cheers from the Caribbean
Great tech vid that is explained in easy to understand terms. Leo is cool.
Hey mate, great content as always, and extremely useful to me so thank you.
Oh, and my 2c on removing the tacho needle, you can also slot the prongs of a fork on either side to pry it off.
Cheers!
Look who's back... another great video.
Hello Patrick! Always good to see you! :D
The way he says “classic toyota” is funny because we have 1980s Corollas here in South Africa running around on the daily
Fantastic thank you. I'm contemplating a AW11 SC build and I want to maintain the same instrument cluster if at all possible, but with a new ECU. Very helpful.
Very nice job 👌
Thanks!
Awesome video, but instead of using resistor box or bunch of them on breadboard to find the required value, you can just use a potentiometer :) 100k ohm value would be good here. Having it permanently there as you said is not a good idea
I saw some of the potentiometer set ups and liked them. But the resistor box was cheap and worked so well. I used the breadboard for about 10 minutes before I said "there must be a better way of doing this!"
7:18 every honda vtec turbo acceleration video ever
Nice!
I have got almost the same problem in my 86 Corolla!!
Got same cluster as yours
Changed my engine from 20v to 1nzfe for a daily, initially this problem would appear just after 3.5~4k rpm, After doing the harness, it has further pushed to 6~7 k RPM, specially when full beam or turn signal is engagd
Awesome video! Why haven't I seen it earlier? But I have the question: does tacho support high voltage signal after resistor mod?
Next episode - how to remove speed chime xD
Next episode - How to AMPLIFY speed chime #BeHeard
@@sushpants Or how to replace chime with eurobeat
You have to be close to me because one of the cars at a pick n pull said weknow which is a liquor store in Vallejo
YESSSS MISSED UUU
God i miss that 20v sound, thanks for the tips, i have an ae86 so is very useful
Thank you for sharing this Video man. Haven't seen you in a while
Thanks for sticking around! This one took a lot of work for a one man operation :D
fabulously useful and helpful mate, thankyou
Impressive.
Thanks Stan! ^ _ ^
Great work you doing and enjoy video every time blessing
Wow, what a detailed information
Very , very useful
Thanks
There's a TRD 10k cluster in Japan currently for sale for ~$3k USD.
THANK YOU i am swapping a 4AFE with a rebuilt and modifed 4AGE and i want to keep oem tach but not keeping oem ignition system
Great video as always.
wonderful video.
Eyyy! Upload! Will u be uploading regularly btw, or isn't youtube your main focus?
This was a big video, it's like 4 videos in one! I have a bunch more content lined up so the uploads should be more regular.
@@sushpants Honestly, thank you for making these videos. I can see that you put a lot of effort into this one! Keep up the good work, and I hope the content you have planned is spicy! :)
It is just Amazing 👍🤗
TC4452V. there's your booster. Unless it needs to be high and open, instead of high and low; in which case, and ordinary logic level P channel MOSFET.
Great video
Haven't finished the video yet but I'm going to hazard a guess and say it has something to do with the old clusters being sine wave vs the new ECU which have square wave signals
damn! super helpful and just in time for my ecu wiring job!
Great info, thank you for your hard work
Yaaaay
Yay indeed! :D
Pumped for this
Awesome video. On the AW11 MR2, generally people just bypass the resistor but I've never heard of any failures. Would this be worth going back and putting a resistor into?
This is gold! I wonder if this will work with honda tachometers?
Mine is off a little by 2-3 hundred rpms.
i wish i could take that mr2 home id like to have a bunch of them to repair lol.
Will have to see if Toyota calibration methods work on my Daihatsu cluster - it's not as accurate as I would like!
great content man!
Thanks Randy!
Awesome video!
Thank you!
good job
thanks a lot
Can you help me how to identify if my tachometer operates on high or low level signal?
Will it be enough if we are reaching 10krpm? Edit: just checked i already have a 22k resistor in an AE111 4age... Drop to 16k?
Also thank you so much you are an absolute legend
I'm not sure if you mentioned this, but just to be clear, youre still using the coil for the tach, but all you needed to change was the resistor to take a low voltage signal? Didnt need the booster?
And when you said youre using the coil for a signal, how are you doing that? I have a 20v swapped 86 i'm looking to use a link ecu with and was planning on figuring out the tach with it, but im not sure how or where i would connect the tach to a coil for a signal.
Thanks!
I am using the link ECU to get my tach signal. With the modification to the tach controller, you can take the signal directly from the ECU.
@@sushpants I thought you couldn’t use the ecu because it only had 8 outputs
Can you make a more in depth video of the ecu installation and base map loading.
8:51 Hey, off-topic question. I need to disassemble a speedometer that has the same kind of 3D clear ring on it as this AE92 tachometer. Would you please describe how to detach that ring without breaking anything? Has it got screws, clips or glue? Thank you.
Hey sushpants, the tachometer in my ae86 reads about 200rpm high across the range according to my megasquirt. Would it be worth it to try to adjust the tension on those springs? Also when I accelerate in the car through the 2000 to 3000 rpm range the tachometer sort of stops around 2300 sometimes and then "hops" up to 28 or 2900. Any idea why that would happen? Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Awesome informative vid!
Do you notice the needle rising up at all when ignition is switched on and have you done the low signal resistor mod?
@@sushpants I don't belive it raises at all with either the oem ecu nor the megasquirt with the key in the on position not running. I still have the factory distributor when running the oem of coarse or the megasquirt so no mods to the ignition system at all.
@@sushpants I'm actually almost positive the needle stays absolute zero with the key on. Maybe its just because its old as dirt, not sure.
7:17 "Make sure to rev it up to 11,000 rpms"
On AE86, there’s a hard stop at around 9500 rpm. So I could install needle at below zero rest position. Then move needle to highest rpm until the hard stop makes the needle slips on the axle, do this a few times and see that it goes back to zero when it springs back.
However, I’m dealing with a strange tacho right now. It is working correctly when powered, but without voltage, the needle spring is very weak so needle deflects around zero very easy if I lean the cluster housing. Not sure how to go about that?
This is dope.
Canni share your video in my fb page. This helps a lot. 😁
All of this seems like it could be avoided with an Autometer tach adapter 9117 that converts the signal from a coil into a 12v rpm signal.
My cat's name is Leo too lol
Yo that's the windsor pick n pull!
I have a Toyota Cressida 2.4GLE(1989 model) the tachometer was working but all of a sudden it does not work, what could be a problem here?
Hi, I have a AE82 FX with a 4A-C and a half broken gauge cluster (nothing besides the speedometer works)
I want to get a cluster with a tachometer, but I don’t want a standard FX-16 gauge cluster due to the 7500rpm redline vs. the 4A-C’s 6000rpm redline. Is there a way I could transplant a AE86 SR5 tachometer into a FX-16 gauge cluster, along with my current cluster’s speedometer?