My favorite part of Sunday mornings is hot coffee and new D4A! Best automotive channel on the interweb! Thank you so much for all your amazingly thorough and easy to understand videos!
I'm an automotive engineering student and I didn't even know anything about oil clearance thanks for all the educational content. Your channel is awesome m8 :)
Hey just a quick tip, i learned from my grandfather how to use the brown wrapping paper used to prevent rust on automotive parts, this paper cut into strips can be placed behind bearings to ajust the bearing clearance to a better smaller value without having to buy new bearings ..also may need to pass a file on the bearing parting surfaces to create a clearance when tightening the bearing caps...just avoid getting this paper wihin 0.5cm of the bearing lock tabs which are supposed to prevent the bearing from spinning in the bore...
Finally finished the install on my turbo upgrade on my MR2T today! Feels so great to be finally finished (exactly in time for spring and my birthday next week)! Had to share with someone who understands.
I finally realized my mistake in zeroing the dial bore gauge in the micrometer. I moved front part of it up and down not the spring loaded back part to zero it. I never knew whether i should push it in completely or if i should take any point in the middle and zero that. Now i found out that i have to do it the other way around. I don't know if somebody understands what i mean but you definetely made my day👍🏻
Plastigage. Extremely accurate regardless of claims to the contrary. AND it measures actual torqued clearance which micrometers do not. Divide by 2 to get the actual oil clearance. Cost $3.
I use micrometers just like that one everyday at work. This is a really good video as usual, but I'm a bit a skeptical of the sliding the micrometer method. Also, using these tools is a matter of developing a lot of tactile sensitivity. If people want to try this as amateurs it is great, but it takes quite a while to learn to use these tools precisely, and in the beginning it is hard to know if you are doing it right if you don't have other people around to compare your results with
Whenever you buy a used engine, you need to check the bearing clearances, no matter what, You must remove all the big end bearing caps and inspect the bearings, the crankshaft and you need to measure oil clearances, to determine if you bought a lemon and whether you need to take it back for a refund or exchange most used engine Japanese imports have warranties for their engines Also you need to do a compression test but most used engine Japanese imports do compression tests before they sell them, but you must also check
You may not be able to return the engine if it's been opened. I bought a junkyard engine here in California and the valve train had rusted solid. I took apart the engine, tried to free up the valves, and put it back together. When I tried to return it, they wouldn't accept it. If the junkyard/importer or whatever has match marked the crank pulley or other parts, it's likely they won't accept a return.
Very good information. This is the only way to check for taper and out of round. And also for ordering the right size bearing, to make sure you have the right oil clearance
This guy knows how to simplify complex engine subjects easy to understand as i watched some other videos on this subject I couldnt understand like I understand from this guy 👍
Good video. I'm a machinist and I never use the ratcheting knob on a mic. Also never met a machinist who does. Also measure rod bolt stretch instead of using a torque measurement whenever possible.
Damn I just spun my rod bearing last week too. I was so lost on how to fix this and was considering just getting a new motor from the junkyard but now I might try to fix it. This video is totally kick ass man thanks a million you have no idea!!! Always look for your new videos
Absolutely TOP car channel!!. Love Scotty's, but not even close as clearly didactic & accurate as your 'in - depth' info!!.. Many thanks & Blessings!!.. 🤗🙏🙏🙏🙏
For those watching and learning. Know that him spinning the crank in the bearing saddles is for demonstration purposes only. Don't spin your crank until the main caps have been installed and torqued-to-setting" .
I gotta say I love this channel. One thing I would love to see more of is how all these details change when you change the engines "purpose"... so when you marinize a v8, switch a diesel to say kerosene or biofuel, run a car angine as a plane engine and run it at constant high rpm or upside down.. All those things noone sane does.. :D
when you are on the loos side use bit thicker oil and crank up oil pressure. Check if you can find higher flowing oil pump for your build, more flow = more pressure for your loose measurements.
set micrometer to journal diameter, set a telescoping t bore gauge to the bearings under torque in the caps, then use feeler gauges to see gap when you put t bore gauge inside of micrometer
I'll be prepared for you next video about bearings in different materials, because I want to start a engine modification and the first step is to install molybdenum bearings
When it comes to bearing clearances, you've got what you've got. There's not many ways to adjust it and the majority of people don't have the capability to do it.
you can always take it to the machine shop to grind the journal or close and hone the caps as needed. The important thing is to take accurate measurements so you can make an informed decision. Its far better than just winging it.
@@shriramvenu The ideal way to do the job is the same as boring for the pistons. Buy the pistons first then bore the block to suit. Buy the bearings then grind the crank to give the correct clearance. Both jobs are for the machine shop, not the DIYer at home.
Theres an old engine builders saying "too tight and EVERYONE knows. Too loose and only you will know." I always shoot for .002-.003 depending on journal size, but i kid you not when ive seen .006 and still showed adequate oil pressure on a couple engine designs
That was a really well done tutorial and should give people who will never build a performance engine some insight why it costs so much to have things done. The 0.001 / inch or mm is intersting, never seen a published number before. Does it change due to oil viscosity, (particularly in respect to modern engines using 0w-20, etc?) I imagine it does as the Toyota clearance was smaller than 'theoretical' clearance.
Thank you, glad you found the vid useful. Yes, running a low viscosity oil with the 0.001 rule of thumb thing wouldn't be a good idea. Most of the new stuff runs closer to 0.0005 or even 0.0004. The rule of thumb clearance most applies to performance builds of popular and go to engine platforms. That being said even some relatively modern stuff runs large clearances and high viscosity from the factory, but it's mostly large v8 or v10 supercars and hypercars.
I spun a bearing and had the engine rebuilt at the machine shop. 500 miles later, it is rod knocking and I sent the whole truck for warrantied repair. I now suspect they didn't clearance the bearings accurately (loose) because my pressure light was flickering on idle and my oil pressure gauge fails to bring pressure up on hot-oil start up. thank you for giving me more insight on what possibly happened with this video.
Micrometer has to be held on the U shape body, where the name of the manufacturer is usually sticked, it reduce the error due to the temperature of your hand for example and this way you can dose all the measure to the same manner
@@Milkmans_Son You measure at 4 locations and / or axially around the journal. But many modern bearing shell designs run more clearance on the sides the help with oil transport in the higher loaded centre sections of the bearing. To check for out of round journals, you need the micrometers, indeed.
I have done this very meticulously, but when I measure with bearing shells installed vs plastigauge or measuring a calibration ring, I always see about an extra 10µm clearance. I seems like the bearing shell surface is so soft, the inside micrometer digs into the shell's top coating 5µm (0.2 thou) on each side. I use trimetal bearings. I can see the area the tool interacted with. Since then measure all the parts, but the final step is always plastigauge. Honda K-Series engines use very small clearances. 10µm is pretty much halve of the clearance tolerance with minimum crank main clearance being only 17 µm.
I believe they are usually deliberately elliptical to a small degree, as shown in this video. This helps stabilise the oil wedge at high RPM, otherwise you can have 'oil whirl' issues that ruin the bearing.
Preemtive smash of the like Button comes rather early today :D Let's see what masterpiece we got here today.... yup another great video right there, well done. Gives one a good idea on what, how and why to look for those clearances in an engine.
Very good video, but I have a doubt, do mechanic really uses micromete that to inside, they just visually examine th Journal by observing the side ( unloaded area ) & judge if has become undersized.
Reminds me of the insanity that is Mazda RX8 stationary bearing journals. Those things keep running with the copper on the bearings stripped off. The only hint is the faintest of knocks because the crank on constrained by the rotor. Then it stops and never restarts. Unless you know exactly what to listen for it's a silent failure because it's nowhere near as loud as a standard piston engine.
Im not Qualified ( on papers ) .But I have worked for shops where many qualified guys were and they all admitted that im a much better mechanic than them all. Most thought I was talking shit when I tld them i never even finished high school, let alone go to any college or worked as an apprentice . I gave it allot of though as to what could possibly put me above them. 1. My born passion for anything that has wheels and an engine. 2.Everything I know I learned on my own by studying material I could find online. I tried to consume as much theory as I can about as many different engines or thoeretical concepts and as many different manufacturers , compared to qualified guys ( in my case it was 2 guys with Hyundai/kia papers and another was from ford. They all only learned about their brand, having update workshop training on new models etc... 3. They were drilled to do things a certain way , I learned by trial and error and i dont have that drilled in mindset of whats right or wrong and unlike them Im not afraid to go with my own logic against their " that wont ever work" . 4. They got smacked by their mentor for using a ratchet as a hammer , where I have no issue with using mine to bang on something if im under a car and my hammer is far . nor do i give a shit about using a big flat screwdriver as a chisel or prybar. My point is this : " There is too much bulshit surrounding engine mechanics." I have never , not once assembled a motor and measured 'RADIAL CLEARANCE' (since the guy in video and all the other engineers in the comments dont know the correct term...) How many failed builds did I have ? NOT a single 1!!!! All my builds always read higher compression than manufacturers data. All my customers reported noticeable throttle response and better fuel economy. Allot of the " you have to do it this way " is like the boogy man . A fake story made up to scare people. You doing a crank bearing job , it probably means that either a new std sized 1 was installed or the damaged 1 went to machine shop for engineering. In both cases you just have to double check that the spare part shop supplies the correct bearings. so if you use std pistons and std replacement rings wich size was determined by the original engineers and bearings to matc (provided machine shop didnt mess up ) then ofcourse the radial clearance will be within spec and you can rest assured and go ahead...
your videos are great and informative. Could you maybe make a video about DIY exhaust? Picking the right exahust manifold, tube size, cat etc for power and displacement?
Please do next a video about the different inputs of fuel into the combustion chambers. Single-barrel Carburator, vs Multi-barrel Carburator, vs Manifold Injection, vs Direct Port Injection. Thanks!
“No wear on mains, so I think they have been replaced.” Not so my brother. My main bearings have 400k+ miles and no visible wear I did rod bearings. But mains can go forever if you play nice and stay on top of maint. This is a1998 vw engine.
They'll get a tiny bit of wear every time you start the engine (the oil wedge cannot support the crank until the bearing has achieved sufficient rotational speed, so you always have some metal-to-metal contact in these conditions). If your engine does lots of distance with very few cold starts (e.g. only used for long road trips) the mains might outlast other, less easily replaced components however.
Coming back to this video bc i took my block to a machine shop and in the following weeks i heard some complaints about that shop about valves being badly seated and stuff And now I'm worried that maybe they will mess up my engine
I always enjoy your excellant tutorials. Could you speak about the main journal size? I saw a video comparing the 327 small journal vs large journal. I would enjoy your explaination.
Could you please a video about lubrication, like hydrodynamic and hydrostatic and where the are used in engine, bearings clearances to allow for hydrodynamic lubrication and im sure you would explain in better
Even better way is to use "plastigauge". Lay a piece of this across the bearing journal, 90° to direction of rotation. Install the cap with bearing, tighten to specified torque, then remove the cap and read the thickness of the plastigauge. These measurements will show bearing wear, & taper of the journal. The only time you need to check the caps, & big end part of the rod for ovality is when the engine has been overheated or abused. The operations shown here should help those who want to learn. The tools shown are not expensive, unless you want to go "all out" & buy digital equipment.
Some engines, like the old Holden inline 6 had issues with their bottom ends that did require this measurement. It was a combination of material, engineering and oil supply. The old 202 was notorious for it.
@@iansmith6728 exactly. The 202 engines self destructed with monotonous regularity. If it wasn't number 3 throwing the leg out of bed, number 5 piston crown parted from the rest of the piston.
@@smithno41 same here. When I did engine reco work, plastigauge was integral in my job. We both know when used correctly, we can tell if the crank needed machining or replacing.
Please talk about oil thickness selection vs bearing clearance at least the recommended value. Mostly youtuber only talks about manufacturers standards.
0-150MM 0.01mm/0.0004 Inch Outside Micrometer set ban.ggood.vip/WVod
50mm-160mm 0.01mm Dial Bore Gauge bit.ly/36jYWQI
Dial Bore Gauge kit smaller diameters ban.ggood.vip/WVoz
Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/
istekli linkovi jel mozes ih refreshat ?
I love how this guy shares not only knowledge, but know-how also
Indeed
I also use platicgauge for checking bearing clearance. It may be old school, but its quick and simple,accurate and it works.
My favorite part of Sunday mornings is hot coffee and new D4A! Best automotive channel on the interweb! Thank you so much for all your amazingly thorough and easy to understand videos!
Amen!
I'm an automotive engineering student and I didn't even know anything about oil clearance thanks for all the educational content. Your channel is awesome m8 :)
Must be day 1 at uni
No wonder why the modern engines are so s..t 😂
Stop making cars so hard to work on
u should change your colleague.
@@byloyuripka9624 my career is about electronics and electronic systems design (like ADAS). We have nothing to do with power plants tho.
Hey just a quick tip, i learned from my grandfather how to use the brown wrapping paper used to prevent rust on automotive parts, this paper cut into strips can be placed behind bearings to ajust the bearing clearance to a better smaller value without having to buy new bearings ..also may need to pass a file on the bearing parting surfaces to create a clearance when tightening the bearing caps...just avoid getting this paper wihin 0.5cm of the bearing lock tabs which are supposed to prevent the bearing from spinning in the bore...
Finally finished the install on my turbo upgrade on my MR2T today! Feels so great to be finally finished (exactly in time for spring and my birthday next week)!
Had to share with someone who understands.
Congrats my friend!
Correct
As the owner of a very old diesel engine I happen to live on top of (in a boat), you're an absolute godsend. Thank you so much for this!
Thanks so much for this. I am a vibration analyst and all your videos on Recip. Engines are joy to me. I appreciate.
I finally realized my mistake in zeroing the dial bore gauge in the micrometer. I moved front part of it up and down not the spring loaded back part to zero it. I never knew whether i should push it in completely or if i should take any point in the middle and zero that. Now i found out that i have to do it the other way around. I don't know if somebody understands what i mean but you definetely made my day👍🏻
Plastigage. Extremely accurate regardless of claims to the contrary. AND it measures actual torqued clearance which micrometers do not. Divide by 2 to get the actual oil clearance. Cost $3.
so true, cant beat old school.
@user-gj8oq7fw1u Micrometers are older school than plastigauge.
I use micrometers just like that one everyday at work. This is a really good video as usual, but I'm a bit a skeptical of the sliding the micrometer method. Also, using these tools is a matter of developing a lot of tactile sensitivity. If people want to try this as amateurs it is great, but it takes quite a while to learn to use these tools precisely, and in the beginning it is hard to know if you are doing it right if you don't have other people around to compare your results with
You're definitely this does take some "feel" that only comes with repetition
I am also a machinist.
Whenever you buy a used engine, you need to check the bearing clearances, no matter what,
You must remove all the big end bearing caps and inspect the bearings, the crankshaft and you need to measure oil clearances, to determine if you bought a lemon and whether you need to take it back for a refund or exchange most used engine Japanese imports have warranties for their engines
Also you need to do a compression test but most used engine Japanese imports do compression tests before they sell them, but you must also check
You may not be able to return the engine if it's been opened. I bought a junkyard engine here in California and the valve train had rusted solid. I took apart the engine, tried to free up the valves, and put it back together. When I tried to return it, they wouldn't accept it. If the junkyard/importer or whatever has match marked the crank pulley or other parts, it's likely they won't accept a return.
I don’t even have a car but I NEED TO KNOW THIS!!!😂
It's always good to learn new things
Same here. I don't own a car but i need to know. 🤣
👍
I am going to buy me some main bearings and connecting rod bearings and then I'll buy me a car 😁
Ha3x... maybe its because you like engineering stuffs.
I used to operate these grinding machine for the crankshaft...
I just love this videos its allways a perfect sunday when they come. When I meassure the clearence i use plastigauge.
Very good information. This is the only way to check for taper and out of round. And also for ordering the right size bearing, to make sure you have the right oil clearance
This guy knows how to simplify complex engine subjects easy to understand as i watched some other videos on this subject I couldnt understand like I understand from this guy 👍
Good video. I'm a machinist and I never use the ratcheting knob on a mic. Also never met a machinist who does. Also measure rod bolt stretch instead of using a torque measurement whenever possible.
Damn I just spun my rod bearing last week too. I was so lost on how to fix this and was considering just getting a new motor from the junkyard but now I might try to fix it. This video is totally kick ass man thanks a million you have no idea!!! Always look for your new videos
Did you ever fix it?
Absolutely TOP car channel!!. Love Scotty's, but not even close as clearly didactic & accurate as your 'in - depth' info!!..
Many thanks & Blessings!!..
🤗🙏🙏🙏🙏
I'm sorry for that retention algorithm, I clicked out of one of your other videos for this one
For those watching and learning. Know that him spinning the crank in the bearing saddles is for demonstration purposes only. Don't spin your crank until the main caps have been installed and torqued-to-setting" .
Amazing once again! Not all things have been said to school.
I gotta say I love this channel. One thing I would love to see more of is how all these details change when you change the engines "purpose"... so when you marinize a v8, switch a diesel to say kerosene or biofuel, run a car angine as a plane engine and run it at constant high rpm or upside down.. All those things noone sane does.. :D
There's some really good video ideas here!
Thank you so much for this video. I never undestood very well the measures of the crankshaft before watching this video.
Who in their right mind would dislike this mans videos?
when you are on the loos side use bit thicker oil and crank up oil pressure. Check if you can find higher flowing oil pump for your build, more flow = more pressure for your loose measurements.
Would this be a good application for the notorious Lucas oil?
Thank you for your time and sacrifice to open my eyes and brain in measurement .
Some people like to use plastiguage to measure the clearance, if used correctly its a valuable tool
set micrometer to journal diameter, set a telescoping t bore gauge to the bearings under torque in the caps, then use feeler gauges to see gap when you put t bore gauge inside of micrometer
D4A, THANK YOU SO MUCH for this amazing info! I'm getting ready for my ASE A1 and being able to see the theory in action is extremely valuable.
Best automotive maintenance Chanel!! Keep going!
I'll be prepared for you next video about bearings in different materials, because I want to start a engine modification and the first step is to install molybdenum bearings
rod journal (muñon de biela) main journal (muñon de bancada)
Just taking a few notes for those who don't know the names in spanish.
We were teached how to measure stuff in engineering, but this is so much easier to understand :)
This guy is very good he makes it very simple
When it comes to bearing clearances, you've got what you've got. There's not many ways to adjust it and the majority of people don't have the capability to do it.
you can always take it to the machine shop to grind the journal or close and hone the caps as needed. The important thing is to take accurate measurements so you can make an informed decision. Its far better than just winging it.
@@shriramvenu The ideal way to do the job is the same as boring for the pistons. Buy the pistons first then bore the block to suit. Buy the bearings then grind the crank to give the correct clearance. Both jobs are for the machine shop, not the DIYer at home.
You are one of the best, tutor very clear and simple explanation ❤️
Best car engine channel !
Theres an old engine builders saying "too tight and EVERYONE knows. Too loose and only you will know."
I always shoot for .002-.003 depending on journal size, but i kid you not when ive seen .006 and still showed adequate oil pressure on a couple engine designs
D4A upload.. Oh, right, it's Sunday.
That was a really well done tutorial and should give people who will never build a performance engine some insight why it costs so much to have things done. The 0.001 / inch or mm is intersting, never seen a published number before. Does it change due to oil viscosity, (particularly in respect to modern engines using 0w-20, etc?) I imagine it does as the Toyota clearance was smaller than 'theoretical' clearance.
Thank you, glad you found the vid useful. Yes, running a low viscosity oil with the 0.001 rule of thumb thing wouldn't be a good idea. Most of the new stuff runs closer to 0.0005 or even 0.0004. The rule of thumb clearance most applies to performance builds of popular and go to engine platforms. That being said even some relatively modern stuff runs large clearances and high viscosity from the factory, but it's mostly large v8 or v10 supercars and hypercars.
@@d4a Thanks for reply. I've said it before but I'll say it again, I have no idea how you find out this stuff but I'm glad you do.
I spun a bearing and had the engine rebuilt at the machine shop. 500 miles later, it is rod knocking and I sent the whole truck for warrantied repair.
I now suspect they didn't clearance the bearings accurately (loose) because my pressure light was flickering on idle and my oil pressure gauge fails to bring pressure up on hot-oil start up.
thank you for giving me more insight on what possibly happened with this video.
I know how to do all this stuff. I just enjoy watching your videos!
Thank you for your vedeo bearing clearance is very important
Micrometer has to be held on the U shape body, where the name of the manufacturer is usually sticked, it reduce the error due to the temperature of your hand for example and this way you can dose all the measure to the same manner
you can use plastiguage for this mesurement as well. it's much faster and have good accuracy
it's actually what the picture shows in the workshop manual ;)
How does plastigauge tell you if something is out of round?
@@Milkmans_Son plastiguage is for measuring bearing clearence only.. it cannot tell you if something is out of round :)
@@Milkmans_Son You measure at 4 locations and / or axially around the journal. But many modern bearing shell designs run more clearance on the sides the help with oil transport in the higher loaded centre sections of the bearing. To check for out of round journals, you need the micrometers, indeed.
I have done this very meticulously, but when I measure with bearing shells installed vs plastigauge or measuring a calibration ring, I always see about an extra 10µm clearance. I seems like the bearing shell surface is so soft, the inside micrometer digs into the shell's top coating 5µm (0.2 thou) on each side. I use trimetal bearings. I can see the area the tool interacted with. Since then measure all the parts, but the final step is always plastigauge. Honda K-Series engines use very small clearances. 10µm is pretty much halve of the clearance tolerance with minimum crank main clearance being only 17 µm.
It's really amazing the tolerances we can achieve with modern manufacturing/tooling.
Excellent basics!! Thanks Big!!
You are really good man. Thanks
Some people say you shouldn't spin your crank before you torque your main caps down because the bearings aren't round until they are torqued.
I believe they are usually deliberately elliptical to a small degree, as shown in this video. This helps stabilise the oil wedge at high RPM, otherwise you can have 'oil whirl' issues that ruin the bearing.
@@nerd1000ify Possibly - but it's still fair to say that until they are torque down, the bearings don't assume their proper shape.
I love your work
Plz make iconic engen video on
Gtr r32 r33 r34
You are correct, the engine park should never come into contact with udders, So keep them away from the cows.
Preemtive smash of the like Button comes rather early today :D Let's see what masterpiece we got here today.... yup another great video right there, well done. Gives one a good idea on what, how and why to look for those clearances in an engine.
Very good video, but I have a doubt, do mechanic really uses micromete that to inside, they just visually examine th
Journal by observing the side ( unloaded area ) & judge if has become undersized.
Reminds me of the insanity that is Mazda RX8 stationary bearing journals. Those things keep running with the copper on the bearings stripped off. The only hint is the faintest of knocks because the crank on constrained by the rotor.
Then it stops and never restarts. Unless you know exactly what to listen for it's a silent failure because it's nowhere near as loud as a standard piston engine.
Legend ! King of the "Interesting" Stuff
Perfect info I was looking for thx
Just use the bearing manufacturer book for suggested measure and grind the crankshaft accordingly .
Im not Qualified ( on papers ) .But I have worked for shops where many qualified guys were and they all admitted that im a much better mechanic than them all. Most thought I was talking shit when I tld them i never even finished high school, let alone go to any college or worked as an apprentice .
I gave it allot of though as to what could possibly put me above them.
1. My born passion for anything that has wheels and an engine.
2.Everything I know I learned on my own by studying material I could find online. I tried to consume as much theory as I can about as many different engines or thoeretical concepts and as many different manufacturers , compared to qualified guys ( in my case it was 2 guys with Hyundai/kia papers and another was from ford. They all only learned about their brand, having update workshop training on new models etc...
3. They were drilled to do things a certain way , I learned by trial and error and i dont have that drilled in mindset of whats right or wrong and unlike them Im not afraid to go with my own logic against their " that wont ever work" .
4. They got smacked by their mentor for using a ratchet as a hammer , where I have no issue with using mine to bang on something if im under a car and my hammer is far . nor do i give a shit about using a big flat screwdriver as a chisel or prybar.
My point is this : " There is too much bulshit surrounding engine mechanics." I have never , not once assembled a motor and measured 'RADIAL CLEARANCE'
(since the guy in video and all the other engineers in the comments dont know the correct term...)
How many failed builds did I have ? NOT a single 1!!!!
All my builds always read higher compression than manufacturers data. All my customers reported noticeable throttle response and better fuel economy.
Allot of the " you have to do it this way " is like the boogy man . A fake story made up to scare people.
You doing a crank bearing job , it probably means that either a new std sized 1 was installed or the damaged 1 went to machine shop for engineering. In both cases you just have to double check that the spare part shop supplies the correct bearings. so if you use std pistons and std replacement rings wich size was determined by the original engineers and bearings to matc (provided machine shop didnt mess up ) then ofcourse the radial clearance will be within spec and you can rest assured and go ahead...
Thanks for all your videos
Tnx sir for all your support pls explain about cylinder bore tappernes and out offroundness
You are great teacher 👍
A genius at work....I like it!
Fascinating.
Indeed.
synthetic oils are thinner so the tight clearances are necessary.
This is straight gold!
OLÁ. A medição movimentando o micrometro é o que provoca a deformação da "rosca" do micrometro nas áreas mais usadas. ABRAÇOS
can you make videos about large 2 stroke marine engine? and other marine engineering stuff?
You are awesome, best video ever explaining this :D
your videos are great and informative. Could you maybe make a video about DIY exhaust? Picking the right exahust manifold, tube size, cat etc for power and displacement?
Please do next a video about the different inputs of fuel into the combustion chambers. Single-barrel Carburator, vs Multi-barrel Carburator, vs Manifold Injection, vs Direct Port Injection. Thanks!
Nice teaching bro tnx a lot
“No wear on mains, so I think they have been replaced.”
Not so my brother.
My main bearings have 400k+ miles and no visible wear
I did rod bearings. But mains can go forever if you play nice and stay on top of maint.
This is a1998 vw engine.
They'll get a tiny bit of wear every time you start the engine (the oil wedge cannot support the crank until the bearing has achieved sufficient rotational speed, so you always have some metal-to-metal contact in these conditions). If your engine does lots of distance with very few cold starts (e.g. only used for long road trips) the mains might outlast other, less easily replaced components however.
Coming back to this video bc i took my block to a machine shop and in the following weeks i heard some complaints about that shop about valves being badly seated and stuff
And now I'm worried that maybe they will mess up my engine
Amazing content, thank-you for sharing your knowledge! :) Great explanations and well edited.
This is a good work. I like it too.
Love the blower bearing gap! 😂👈
🤣
Very clearly explained! 👍
I always enjoy your excellant tutorials. Could you speak about the main journal size? I saw a video comparing the 327 small journal vs large journal. I would enjoy your explaination.
Dude! I love this channel!
Thank you very much for this very informative video.
Really good, clear video. Thank you.
Could you please a video about lubrication, like hydrodynamic and hydrostatic and where the are used in engine, bearings clearances to allow for hydrodynamic lubrication and im sure you would explain in better
The best channel!
Might want to look in to a set of snap guages.
Hope it gives more insight about oil grades and what difference can they make.
Amazing thank you for your time
Very important information thank you
Ótimo vídeos, muito instrutivo
Once again brilliant. But what I really want to know is how does a cannon fire threw the center of a B-109 Messerschmitt engine
Another great video, bro! 👍
Very good knowledgeable video glad I came across your channel
Even better way is to use "plastigauge". Lay a piece of this across the bearing journal, 90° to direction of rotation. Install the cap with bearing, tighten to specified torque, then remove the cap and read the thickness of the plastigauge. These measurements will show bearing wear, & taper of the journal. The only time you need to check the caps, & big end part of the rod for ovality is when the engine has been overheated or abused. The operations shown here should help those who want to learn. The tools shown are not expensive, unless you want to go "all out" & buy digital equipment.
Some engines, like the old Holden inline 6 had issues with their bottom ends that did require this measurement. It was a combination of material, engineering and oil supply. The old 202 was notorious for it.
@@iansmith6728 exactly. The 202 engines self destructed with monotonous regularity. If it wasn't number 3 throwing the leg out of bed, number 5 piston crown parted from the rest of the piston.
I've always used "plastigauge". Rebuilds I have done work fine using this method.
@@smithno41 same here. When I did engine reco work, plastigauge was integral in my job. We both know when used correctly, we can tell if the crank needed machining or replacing.
Very important a roller 🛼🎢 bearings ceramic as main for crankshaft n camshaft let it roll not weld n use two oil pumps
Please talk about oil thickness selection vs bearing clearance at least the recommended value. Mostly youtuber only talks about manufacturers standards.
Extraordinary corect 👍
I want that video on how eccentricity helps lubrication =w=
Excellent vídeo, top job.
Thanks!
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