DESTROYED! What a BUSTED CAM looks like. Briggs and Stratton OHV INTEK model engine common problem
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2020
- PART 1 of 2 . DESTROYED!!! Did it run out of oil? Jeff's Little Engine Service shows what a BUSTED CAM looks like from a Briggs and Statton Single cylinder OHV Intek model engine. Broken COMPRESSION RELEASE MECHANISM , Timing Gear , Govenor among other things! Very COMMON problem. Procedure for gasket and sump cover removal repair fix inspect check diagnose take off parts craftsman riding lawnmower husqvarna John Deere Yard Machuines Snapper Toro Trot-bilt Poulan Kohler Tecumseh walmart home depot tips for scraping gaskets adjust adjustment valves specifications lash spark gas fuel petrol clean tank run dies stops wont won't does
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PLEASE KEEP IN MIND when you are watching my videos: I am showing you the least expensive, quickest "backyard" methods for repairing or servicing your lawnmower or equipment. Replacing all components such as gaskets and fuel lines is always recommended when rebuilding or repairing equipment. With these videos I hope you are able to fix and repair your lawnmower yourself with minimal parts, knowledge and tools. Thank you for watching!
Great content Jeff. Ive gotten proficient with head gaskets on these engines but I feel like I can dig in to the internals now with more confidence. Thank You again.
Thank you Jeff for your videos they have helped me out in a pinch
The reason the camshaft gear is broke is because the compression release broke off first and got wedged into the cam gear and causes it to break. Seen it before. Generally if you're lucky it'll fall to the bottom of the oil pan without getting wedged in a Gear but sometimes not so lucky.
Jeff great job, accountability for broken pieces, get it right the first time, I hear ya clearly !
Wow what a job can't wait to see this bad boy run!
We used a telescopic magnet & went through the oil tube & fished out the broken cam piece a temp fix & we don't use to mow the grass but use to haul hay,it worked... ✌
Those type of engines are the best ones i been using with no problems no problems it all i replaced those parts but old stuff breaks over time I'd like buy more of those engines.
Im happy the person tried fixing their own stuff.
Awesome channel!! Shared and liked. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
Awesome thank you!
I also like and subscribed on my phone . I love all, and I do mean ALLOF YOUR VIDEOS, EVEN WHEN YOU SAY YOU DONT LIKE TO GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY. I am as serious as a hear attack too
Your videos are very helpful
thank you
Another good way, is with the good quality brass wire wheel on the pencil adapter on a dremel tool, and carb cleaner, squirt it on the gasket, it dissolves the gasket, and any gasket maker , and the good quality brass wire wheel takes it right off, squirt and wire wheel all the way around, squirt and wire wheel, the quickest I have gotten a gasket off with that technique is 15 minutes.
Great tip!
i always spray the gasket with carb or brake parts cleaner before scraping!
I use sharpened plastic painters tools then scotch bright to clean gaskets.
The quickest way I have found to scrape gasket off, is by hand, that razor blade and my fingers, just don't get cut, cause you can get a better angle with your fingers, I also use a good quality brass wire wheel and a pencil adapter on the dremel, makes quick work of the gasket, and doesn't harm the surface.
i use a paint scraper to remove old gaskets. its not sharp enough to damage the ally. Your video has helped me to get the parts i need to fix my 11.5 21A807 engine
Thanks for your efforts Jeff. Poor engineering coupled with inferior parts has convinced me not to buy a B/S Intek. I used to like Briggs & Stratton;.
Thanks for sharing
Gasket use drill with brass wire wheel you be done in 2 min with no problems damage etc
great tip I will try that
I change cams in B&S motors almost weekly , I have a 2' by 2' box I fill with those packing plastic bags fill with air (used for shipping) then put the engine upside down ,,, Those B&S engines are hard on the decompressor parts .. LOL ... B&S both the single and twin sometimes you'll find a bent pushrod , if you do the problem will be the valve guide has moved and the valve isn't opening all the way ...
Great tip!
B&S needs to fix their terrible compression release costing folks money and headaches
Mines lobes were worn down on the old camshaft the compression release was intact and still good the valves were set right in place
Good video,good info.
I drain oil and remove the oil spout before lifting to protect it. I replace that unreliable quick turn junk drain plug with an NPT plug (any hardware store) which Briggs have GONE BACK to using because those plastic drains often break and blow off while mowing. I found out the hard way.
Since they're reasonably heavy and I have a bad back I bought a used patient lift which are often used by motorcycle and mower mechs. There are many ways to hook the lift to an engine but I use a friction lock motorcycle tiedown. Then if there is no appropriate hole handy I make a loop of aircraft safety wire (every shop needs a roll, cheap online) and run that through whatever bolt hole is handy on the base. You can also drill a scrap steel tab or whatever does the job and bolt that to what you're lifting. When I get motivated I'll drill some angle to fit the flywheel bolt and use that for central lifting on the next of my Inteks I pull. (I collect LT2000 mowers and get many years from them. Multiple used mowers are cheap to acquire and every several years I buy a new engine to swap into the fleet.)
But wow, tell the guy never go near his engine again, only to check and add oil when needed.... LMAO
LOL. If anyone bothered to read the manual it clearly states. "Check oil level before starting the engine" Takes all but 20 seconds.
Great video, thanks. I am at that point of repair/replace and my question is my 15-year old17.5 (that I had done the usual head gasket replace, oil change, new plug) was running fine when it blew. I haven't done a tear down, but it appears the crank counterweight punched through the back of the engine body above the level of the sump. It continued to run, although badly, enough to get it back to the garage. I'm a backyard fixer but am not sure about what I might be getting into on a tear-down. Thinking new mower would be the best repair considering cost and mower age?
That's a common problem with Intek motors
Back in the 60's, an old mechanic told me to never use gasket sealer- use axle grease. If you ever have to remove- it falls right off---- It has never failed me
axle grease? instead of a gasket or some gasket maker from a tube? It holds in the hot oil??
@@jeffflowers729 yes- grease works good- never failed me
@@jeffflowers729 I understood this as putting axle grease on the seal, not in place of the seal. Axle grease has no sealing properties between two pieces of metal.
LOL oo 😅bbif
it was the compression release that failed then the pieces got between the cam gear and timeing gear causeing the cam gear to explode sometimes ther is no damage sometimes its catastrophic and some times you get what you saw the owner didnt cause the problem
Wonder if a little carefully brushed on paint stripper might make short work of that gasket material.
Great video had my compression release break with only 15 hrs on motor B&S engines are junk maybe that’s why they filled for bankruptcy
This B&S Platinum on these YT 3000's are junk, but the the Platinum V Twin 24hp on my 2011 YT 4000 has nearly 1100 hours on it and doesn't burn or leak any oil and still runs great!
Great video
Thanks for the visit
FYI - To easily remove the old gasket, spray goo gone on it and use a rotary tool with a wire wheel. Make sure the wires are very thin so you don't scratch up the aluminum. keep using the wheel and keep adding more goo gone until its clean. You can clean both sides in like 5 minutes with little effort
Great tip! Also, if you use a brass brush/rotary disc the aluminum won't scratch
Decomp valve does that all the time I do a couple a week here in our shop... I now just keep them cams in stock because it happens so often... there really should be a class action over this...
for sure I agree... I have had to replace many of those cams and replace alot of head gaskets too on the same engine model
I know these 21hp Platinum engines have this problem, but what about the 24 hp platinum V Twins? I have the Platinum 24hp engines on my two YT 4000's (2011, 2014, and I haven't had a single issue with neither of them. My 2011 has nearly 1100 hours on it and doesn't burn oil or leak any neither. It runs great and I use it all the time to mow 2 acres.
Hi Jeff, ty for your videos. I wondered why you dont use a brass wire wheel for gasket removal?
Its not good to it would scratch the surface were the new gasket sits and not seal right
I have wire wheels and never use them on that you want a flat clean smooth surface
So maybe the compression release broke first (like they always do on these), then someone cranked down on the valve adjustment to try and correct the high compression issue but ended up over-tightening the valve clearance which jammed up the cam and broke it into pieces? I dunno, just a guess. I see the comp release finger break all the time but I’ve never seen the cam gear bust apart before, not even the plastic ones.
I agree with your summation
🤔😒😕 Sounds logical.🖖
HMMMMMMMMMMM I didn't know a workbench was to work on either. I thought it was for storage also.
lol!
jdretiree it’s a place to put stuff, so you can knock it off and have to get on the ground to get it out from behind the bench.
Or just leave it for posterity.
Notice some small black plastic pieces in engine when i took it apart. Still trying to see what it might have came off. I know the governor is a tan plastic. Any ideas would be helpful
Push rod guides from the top
What would cause the starter gear to break when atarting? Valves too tight?
I put my parts in my parts washer. The cleaner softens the gasket up and it just brushes off. Time is money
You can use Roloc lock disc surface conditioning Disc and the pad holder to remove gasket on a angle head die grinder it will make job easier and faster
cool! thanks I will check that out. I hate scraping gaskets!!!
that's how I do it...
I use my dremel tool and little brass wire wheel to remove gaskets and dirt works great an brass won't scratch anything
Good tip!
I like how you used the heat gun and razor scraper to remove what was left of gasket. That's what I call the doobie busy work. Sm oke a doobie and get it done.. come back the next day and put it back together. Cause after doing that boring work and doobie I would call it day or I would clean the hell out of the motor.
lol! I like your style
My 15.5HP ( 2003 ) Intek overhaed valve assembly has an exhaust valve that is barely moving. ITs been sitting a long time. The pushrod when removed looks good as it is not bent or warped and rolls perfectly down a flat surface. The valve is not completely closing. It is stuck which is why it is blowing back. I will pull the cyl head and check it out. Question: Are most intek OHV engine head compatible? Can I swap one from a similar intek onto this 15.5HP?
I think most are similar but I do not know for sure.
I’ve only had a couple with broken gear like that and usually the block is cracked
Where does Briggs & Stratton 692332
RETAINER go? thank you
I was wondering how could a new engine break still being that new so that's how it did now I wonder why'd they wanna adjust those for
can anyone advise me i was given a wizard riding mower the other day it is powered by a 13 hp power built briggs and stratton model # 28.707 type #1154e1 code # 010124zd the alternator is burned up and id like to put a 40 amp alternator so i can pull my lit trailer and not have my battery go dead also use an electronic voltage regulator>> my question is will a 40 amp alternator git under my old flywheel >>and the flywheell still work?? please advise with an alternator part number thanks gerald from deep south texas
Mine is needing a new compression release it does still work broke but you know how it is I'll twist the flywheel by hand then start it up its to cold outside right now to play with all these out dated engines kinda waiting on spring time
Then I'll finish these 2 different onan engines then start on the 89 craftsman engine then put the 19.5 twin engine on the john Deere Lt155 is my plan and give away 2 green craftsman bodies so I'll have more space
What's the price difference in buying a new engine and paying someone to install vs paying someone to re-build/ re- install one? For that size ( relatively small), seems it would be easier and minimal price difference to buy a new one.
new one is usually better
Obviously the fly got caught in the cam and it blew up.
yep, exactly
Hi folks! So - this is on an older (2005) John Deere lawn tractor with a B/S twin V. Starting issues due to compression. I would have bet the ranch (based on everything I read and watched) that the decompression lever on the cam shaft was gone.
So - I cracked it open. Nothing. I can’t even tell where a lever would have BEEN. There’s also no debris floating around in there that I can find. When I look up replacement cam shafts on this engine the drawings are so bad I can’t tell whether there’s a lever on that thing of not.
Does anyone know? Can anyone help? I don’t want to order a hundred dollar part only to find out this one was fine and all I needed was a valve adjustment (I’ll bang my head later).
IF i may ask what would a job like that cost parts and labor, in my case i think I just need cam shaft and gasket. Thank you
Usually apx. $100.00 in parts and apx.$200.00 labor
Thanks for the info@@JeffsLittleEngineService
Looking forward to the reassembly video.....
These instructions apply to BS v twin, 20hp, as well?
similar but different
Oh man, I have an Ariens with the 17.5HP B&S 31000-series engine and I have replaced the cam TWICE already due to a broken automatic compression release mechanism. It usually also damages the governor gear as the parts drop into the crankcase. Parts cost each time is around $95. B&S should be ashamed of themselves on these engines. The parts on the ACR look more like what you'd find in a pocket watch rather than an engine.
I've repaired two like this so far. A 17.5 and a 21 hp. Both times I used the $95 OEM part instead of the $45 Chinese part. But your OEM part failed in short order 'eh? Ugh. Maybe time to replace them with a good Kohler Command engine.
@@dkeith45 Next time I'm trying the Chinese part. :-)
@@eosjoe565 According to a friend who runs a lawnmower repair shop, B&S is on their third cam design trying to fix this. I asked him if the Kohler Command single cylinder, which is an engine he says doesn't have the flaws the B&S does, has the same sort of compression release on its cam, and he said yes, but its a better design and he's never seen one fail. Think I'm going to look for a used one and do an engine swap on my mower. BTW, he also said Tecumseh engines of that type, have a replaceable compression release, that doesn't require a whole new cam shaft. I told him he should make a RUclips video showing opened engines and the difference between all those parts.
@@dkeith45 That's surprising. If they have new designs they must not be using them for spare parts. Both new cams I purchased were OEM B&S and they were identical to the original cam in the 5-year old engine. It's not the cam that is at fault, it's the weight on the ACR. Both of my ACR mechanisms broke at exactly the same spot. So close that you could almost match the broken piece from one ACR to the other broken one. They simply need to make the weight out of something other than pot metal. I don't expect much out of B&S now that they've filed for bankruptcy. Maybe whoever takes over will make improvements, much like the company did that took over for Tecumseh.
@@eosjoe565 You're exactly right. What the OP of this video calls the compression release, is actually the counter weight, and that's what always breaks. Which is puzzling since it doesn't seem to make contact with anything. All it's supposed to do is cause the half round pin, which IS the compression release, to rock back to its flat side when the engine starts. I didn't think to ask the shop owner if the 3rd gen cam will work on older engines, or if it has the same problem. I do know, that he considers Intec engines junk, and doesn't like the Nikki carbs that are on them either.
Was the cam plastic I hope not
I’m Jeff little nice to meet ya
Hello friend
What about the Rings since it was out of oil it must be using oil just wondering about that.
Yes, for sure that is a possible scenario. Luckily this one did show any cylinder/ring damage and did not smoke when running after reassembly.
Why was it sparking in the intake area when starting at like 6.50 mark?
It was not sparking. It may have been water droplets dropping
" My " gasket removal consists of 1/4 in. Angle Die Grinder with Scotch Brite Roloc Disc on it, 2-min. or less time is all it takes for that gasket.
great tip!
I use my angle die grinder with a nylon bristle attachment from 3M. Works great too.
It looks like the compression release broke, and he tried to account for it by adjusting the valves. He overadjusted them, and it blew the cam up.
I have the same problem does it matter which camshaft I buy? Do they make different ones?
Yes it matters
I never saw if it ran!
Wow.. ok.
The cam couldn't come out because tappets were on lobes, so that the valve springs were compressed...
Good point friend
Is it really worth it?? I mean parts and all your time..in a case like this I can usually find a decent used engine for not that much $$..
Usually about $100.00 in parts. and 1-2 hours labor.
The “mysterious” small plastic piece found in the crankcase at 14:55 in the video was never identified by Jeff. He doesn’t say where that plastic piece or part came from or where it goes. I have found the same piece in the crankcase of a single cylinder Briggs I’m working on. Anyone here that can identify the piece and say what that piece/part is and where it goes????
Someone in the comment section identified it a few years ago. I think it was an oil pick up tube if I remember correct. The engine has ran fine without it for years. I would have replaced it anyway though if I knew what it was back then.
@@JeffsLittleEngineServiceThat mysterious small size plastic piece was correctly identified by someone on a small engine repair FB page. It’s a plastic bushing that’s part of the compression release mechanism. I know, it’s wild! The compression release has a pin that slips in or inserts into that plastic bushing that sits in or is part of the camshaft. It’s not visible when you inspect the cam. When the ACR fails and blows up, the plastic bushing is then exposed, comes loose and can be found in the bottom of the crankcase. Thank you for your reply!
What would happen if I reinstall cam without compression release
might not start
Will not turn over when it hits top dead center. Acts like a dead battery or a bad starter.
Common problems for cam failure
Why is there an oil filter when the engine has an oil slinger lubrication
To operate the govener
😊👍
My intake valve and pushrod is not moving but the exhaust is.
Not good, sounds like a cam lobe could be worn out
@@JeffsLittleEngineService yep nothing but problems with this Ariens 42 from day one. Ariens won’t even reply.
is the compression release came really needed?
I don't know
splurge for A RAZOR BLADE MAN
Yeah I buy a new razor blade you be done in about half the time or less. Take the razor blade and lay it flat on their scrape it off no need to sand it. Rookie
How do I get the piston out?
take off the rod end cap
No the oil was ok its that junk plastic cam compress relief mine did same thing but mine took out the rod to you 'll know its going bad when it get hard to start like a bad battery
Wow. I've done two of these so far. First one, the compression release counter weight that was busted up and the governor gear destroyed in an Intec 17.5 hp single cylinder. Second one, a 21 hp Intec single cylinder only the compression release counter weight was busted up. I'm puzzled why this happens since the half round rod is the decompression release and contacts the lifters. Why is it that the counter weight always gets busted up? I don't know what it is hitting. Maybe it needs to be made out of a stronger metal, maybe Titanium. I was amazed to see your entire camshaft gear was busted up. WOW, serious design flaw, or implementation flaw here.
the small shaft that holds the counterweight mechanism is what seems to break
@@JeffsLittleEngineService In the two I've done so far, a 17.5 and a 21 hp Intec, the spring was intact. The short round pin intact, and the long half round pin 'compression release' was also intact. The only broken part was the large C shaped counter weight. In the 17.5, that weight was broken into four pieces. In the 21, it was broken into two pieces. I saw no scaring inside either engine, so can only imagine what busted up the part was where the steel crankshaft moves close to the steel crankshaft weight? Because everything else is aluminum, except for the camshaft of course, but I've seen no wear or scaring on the cam lobes or the lifters. Very strange situation.
BTW I have a good Kohler Command 17hp vertical shaft and I'm sorely tempted to open its case just to see what its compression release is like, because I've heard those never break.
I don't see where it's any easier!
It looks like that broken cam was a chinese $29.00 special. You tell by the splines. Best to use to use the real thing on these.
It’s all b/s makes now and there worse junk to
At 9:34 the valve at the bottom looks cracked
Heat the razor blade runs right threw the gasket
cool I will try that! Thanks for the tip!
And just think, you still gotta scrape the sump!
Sump gasket, bottom seal, cam, timing gear, labor and fluids, gonna be pricey.
What to charge for labor, that is the question. I still don't have a good idea, just being a hobbyist. I don't think an hourly charge like the shops do is fair, since I'm still learning and am so damn slow. So I just give estimates and hope it works out. On the 21 Hp Intec I worked on recently that had this exact problem, I charged the customer $200 labor plus parts for replacing the camshaft, new case gasket and oil seal, cleaning and rebuilding the carb, cleaning the gas tank, new shutoff valve, new fuel filter, new oil filter, new fuel lines, putting in inner tubes in both front tires because of sidewall leaks, replacing the main drive belt tension pulley because its bearing had failed. Then setting the valves and testing the whole thing out, which ran and cut fine. The mower had sat for over three years till they finally brought it to me, and was made in 2010.
@@dkeith45 l try to get between 35 and 40 an hour.
That being said, I do try to charge by the he job. When I get hung up on something I've never seen, I can't very well nail my customer for it.
I try to charge what it would be worth to me, if I were the customer. I can't charge someone $50.00 on an old mower with $50.00. That's when we have a talk. I'll try to help anybody out, but I gotta at least break even.. I have given some stuff away. It's a 43 yr old hobby with me, the wife hates it. TS!
@@Jim-ie6uf I hear ya. I generally charge $30 an hour for handyman stuff, but I've been doing it for years and know all the ins and outs. Working on lawn mowers is something new for me, only been doing it for two years now, and just here and there. I'm in the same boat on mower worth VS repair cost. Same as working on computers. If the repair is going to cost more than the item is worth, usually not a good idea to repair it. That always tempers my labor charge mentality. In the case of the 21hp, I did some research online and found they usually sell in the $500-$600 range used. They were $1,600 new in 2010. So my customer ended up paying $450. Not a bad deal for them IMO. Sad part is, how long will it be before that craptastic cam breaks again?
dkeith45 I’ve had a guy show up in the driveway, while I was working on one of mine.
He needed a primer bulb and installation. I gave him a beer while I was fixing it.
He asked me how much, and I told him whatever you think it’s worth. Gave me $5.00 and came back with a 12 pack. Now he’s a repeat customer.
Many times, you’ll come out better and ahead on small stuff like that and fuel line.
They will remember you, for sure. I do this for some hip money, and I enjoy it. But I have been doing it off and on since I was 14, I’ll be 63 on the 13th. I must admit, I’m getting kinda burned out on it.
That’s what I’m working on now
Reggae music
Mimmomomommi
I have only one word to say ouch is the word of day the owner of the engine is going .to.pay for that broken engine I do believe that the oil was either 5 w 30.or 10w 30 which is great for car engine,s if used Briggs and Stratton enigne,s you must keep a check on the oil level for a lawnmower engine will burn it up quickly .they run hotter than a car engine you.must use straight 30 weight boil to issure proper lubrication of critical engine parts wouldn't you agree with this matter Jeff
yep
@@JeffsLittleEngineService thanks for your reply young man 😎
Come on Robert, it's not the Space Shuttle and its not a car engine. 10W 30 is fine.
@@dkupy100 if you use 10w30 at the right time of the year
@@robertmailhos8159 Don't mean to belabor the point, but according to a B&S chart 30W oil is for 40degF to 100degF and 10W30 is for 0degF to 100degF. So 10W 30 is fine anywhere in the world maybe except for Antarctica but there is not much grass to cut there.
Dont follow this blokes lead. Motor should be stripped and fully cleaned and inspected!
lol!
It takes a really sick mind to have a clean bench. Only a true genius can keep it cluttered enough that it’s unusable.
But still usable!
junk plus junk equals junk.
Briggs intek motors are junk ,put a vanguard in it and have no more problems lr.😂
I know you're trying to make a living, but you're getting in way to big of a hurry. I watched both videos to this series, I saw a lot of things.
I know you "washed" the engine out with some type cleaner you said. But I can't hardly believe that you didn't finish taking the rest of the engine apart, and clean it out properly. Especially after seeing how that cam exploded into bits and ect. Those bits could be stuck anywhere and come loose at some point and destroy the engine... again. Further if you had taken everything apart, then you could have used engine assembly lube on the crank, piston pin, cam, and the many other contact points. As just spraying some oil (and wd40...) in there is not going to get into the very tight clearance locations.
good tips!
Yhrim....wheres your video to do this?
@@thornbush17 I didn't make any videos about engines, but I've rebuilt them. Was only offering my opinion, because if I didn't clean an engine completely and the shrapnel that was left caused it to destroy itself again or other issues... i'd be pretty mad at myself.
Çran.k..gear
ALL i got to say about B&S is that thay are one big pos junk engine.
I like most Briggs and Honda engines
Made in China by a 5 year old😂