Set both at .004 and no need to go to top dead center ,,turn the engine over till 1 vale is all the way open and the other all the way closed ,,been doing it 20 + years that way ,,your right about looking for that little bump .
Enjoy watching your videos! I recently adjusted the valve gap on a 19 HP Briggs Intek OHV and some instructions called for adjusting valves at 1/4" past TDC. So I did with good results. Anyway, thanks for posting videos!
@@peterhodgkins6985 you see other vids showing them doing it by hard rocking one valve and adjusting the other. I wonder if that would would be accurate and avoid the decompress issue. That small 6mm past TDC when adjusting isnt much but will stuff up a accurate adjustment? Also 4 thousanths is the min and thats COLD. So will expand when it all heats up. you dont want to lose any clearance and have the valve riding above the seat or barely touching it.
Wow, I had a major backfire issue through the carb. Watched a million RUclips videos, changed the carb/magneto/spark plug, still no fix. Found this video, drained the oil, and popped off the valve cover: my exhaust valve was out about a full centimeter! Made the adjustment, filled it back up with oil: voila, all fixed! Thank you sir!
Great video! I'm having the same issue with my mower and never thought to check that. Going to check the valve clearance and hopefully that fixes the problem. Thanks!!!
As usual, answered ALL my questions in one short video. I'm always impressed by Mustie's work and advice. My favorite youtube channel! Thank you for great information and entertainment. I have learned a LOT from your videos. Please keep it up. 😀😀
THANKS! I had the exact same problem (slow crank) and was hours away from buying a new starter. I checked my valve adjustment, and both were about .005 out. I didn't think that little amount would make a difference ... but it did! I adjusted the valves and it started on the first crank - over and over.
Thanks so much for sharing this. Initially I thought the starter was failing because it was barely turning over even with a jump from a good battery. I was ready to order a replacement when I poked around and found this video. After opening it up I found the valves in fact did need adjustment which was straightforward enough to fix. While I was at it I tightened that nut on the starter that you indicated could be loose. The battery and spark plug also had seen better days, so I went ahead and replaced them as well. Then I crossed my fingers, turned the key and it started right up. Yeah baby!!!! One more thing I can at least cross off the list this weekend. Again, I really appreciate your pointing me in the right direction and saving me time.
My mower only has 60 hrs on it and this just happened to me. Not battery, not starter or wiring. Adjusted valves to spec, and charged battery, started right up!! whooo f'n hoo!
Great Vid Mustie ! Last summer I had two Jd mowers . One I bought and one I repaired for a friend . The higher hour unit had the very same problem and like you I made the same repair and unfortunately ended up with the same outcome . Not a total fix ,but one at least that allowed it to start without getting out the boost pack every time . The one I repaired for a friend had a blown head gasket ( it had 45 hours on it ) The one with the hard start had about 250hrs. In general ,I've found the Jd units to be very poor quality untill you step up into the commercial lineup which of course comes at a high expense . Essentially anything you find at a lowes or Home Depot or big box store are going to have sacrifices made to get them in at a price point that consumers will accept . No or few grease points ,plastic bushings ,poor quality deck bearings,no steering linkage adjusters . About 10 years ago now I purchased a Husqvarna ,800 hours and no issues with normal maint.
My J Deere LA110 blew the head gasket and after I pulled the head, cleaned it up and replaced the gasket I of course had to adjust the valves. Your video was a big help with that process so thanks much. I've never done anything more involved than lube and oil change and replace filters and belts so this job was a huge jump for me. I even got it all back together with no left over hardware! I've been watching your videos for a long time and when I did a search for Briggs & Stratton valves this one popped up and I was like, "Oh it's Mustie1!" I just knew you'd be a help.
Thank you very much for posting this :-) I noticed something on mine I didn't see in the video. I have a Briggs 20 HP (Model# 331777). When I pulled the valve cover off of it the intake rocker arm was definitely loose. To the point to where something else had to be going on. When the engine stopped running it started acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel and then it just shut off. It had been doing the hard to crank, stopping on the compression stroke thing for a while before it shut off. When I pulled the valve cover I noticed a small cap on top of the end of the exhaust valve stem (between the rocker and the stem.) Turns out there was supposed to be one on the intake valve too. No where to be found. Wasn't in the cover when I pulled it. Looks like the caps are there to take up tolerance and to keep the rockers square with the tops of the stems (wider surface area) and or to keep the tops of the stems from eating holes in the rocker arms. Briggs part number or the caps is 691843 for reference.
Very intuitive video. The problem with these valvetrains on the B&S engines is that, after normal engine wear, the valve clearances become excessive. This excessive clearance will not allow decompression.
Thank you for this video - I work on both my Deeres, an LA115 & a D160. Also, my churches two Deeres... I’ll be sure to check these items now if issues arise. I made a Sheet of lessons learned about small engines from you. Thanks again from a friend in Iowa.
Good diagnosis Mustie. When you started the video I said check the valves and connections, it's usually the culprit. Good tip on the compression release valve on how to check to see if it's working.
I’ve learned my lesson about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
Wow! I've been struggling with starting my Craftsman DYT 4000 Lawn Tractor for years! Swapped out batteries, tried higher CCA batteries with no success. Stumbled across this video and since my tractor has a 31xxxx series engine I decided to check the valve clearance. They were way off! Brought the intake to .003 and the exhaust to .005 and it now cranks/starts with ease! The only difference with my engine was the center "screw" required a T20 star bit and it seems it's only purpose is to lock down the 10mm nut. It was the nut that actually changed the valve clearance. Thanks Mustie1!
Exactly the same problem on my 18.5hp briggs intek engine on my craftsman mower. Verified the gap specs and about 10 min later, my mower was up and running better than it has ran in a long time. Thanks so much!
Thank You!! I've been chasing this problem for some time thinking it was starter/battery related. After numerous searches and found your video. My valves were way out of adjustment, after adjustment the engine cranks over with no hesitation. Starts like a champ now.
Thank you, been having a problem with my L100 not starting, adjusted the valves like you showed and like a new mower. Thanks for showing the details on adjusting the valves saved me from buying a new mower.
I'm having simular issues on a 14.5 hp. First off, thank you for all your tips& fixes. It has help me alot in my projects I've worked on.What is a good web site I can find specs for future small engine projects. I'm always called on from freinds and family, for fixing small engines. I'm like a magnet. Everyone's always turning to me for fixes.thank you again ,love your channel👍👍
Very cool. I could have used this video last summer for my friends Sears that has the same motor. :) However while I got it fixed I did notice one of the push rods was bent, but I never checked the nut on the starter so I will go back and do that when I help them get it ready for the summer mowing season.
I'm from the UK and have a Toro wheelhorse 12 32 and have had a problem of the starter not working off the battery. I've put up with it for 2 years by putting a jumper on the battery. having seen your video I took off the power lead to the starter and the nut underneath was loose like in your video. it now starts perfectly. many thanks for posting amazing fixes. good job.
@@mustie1 You fixed 3 things, at least, with no testing between. If you had tested between each item fixed, we would know which one was the main problem.
Best video yet on hard start. I got a new battery, New starter, adjusted Valves and no little bump that I could see when I turned the flywheel by hand. Damn, I think it is the compression release on the cam. Crap. Anyway I watched about 10 other videos and you are the champ. Thanks!
This definitely helped me understand what the hell is going in with my motor. Replaced the battery and starter and still can't get over the hill of the compression stroke. Thanks so much for helping me understand what my problem mist likely is.
Thanks for the tip on the starter stud! My brother had a little 1816B Case skid steer that had a Tecumseh OHV 16 HP in it and it had a hand belt release for the hydros but not the boom and bucket hydraulics and that alone was almost enough to keep the starter from spinning it fast enough to start. Thanks for the tip on the belts. You kinda forget about all this stuff.
Thank you man! I have this exact same mower with this problem. I put a new starter on because it was bad when i purchased it off of a gentleman and it worked for 2 starts then i realized that i only had the issue when its on the compression stroke. Im excited to tear into it tomorrow and hopefully fix it!
I had this problem of hard-starting for 12 years on my Briggs engine. The valves were misadjusted from the factory to the tune of about .008 which would not allow the compression release mechanism to work properly. Finally, discovered this problem, adjusted the valves to the .004 spec. and it now starts like a dream.
Thank you again Mustie. Thats the exact engine and set up in my craftsman Lt 1000. My engine is doing the same thing and it's only intermittent so hopefully not internal. My engine may have a little different valve lash it's the 17.5 intec engine. So that is my project for the morning. Have a good day. I remember you mentioned that compression release on an lt 1000 you worked on in another video so my mind isn't a feeble as some family members say it is. PS I just realized it is after all a Wednesday. So I hope to get over the hump.
Very nice video. Very helpful. I have an Intek on my old 2009 John Deere LA105 and for whatever reason, the valves have never gotten out of adjustment since new. I don't know why, but it's nice to see how easy it is if it ever does need it.
I've been having this problem with a cub cadet. I'm headed out now to try all the stuff you talked about. Great videos. You should have your own TV show. Haha Musties Back Yard Mechanics. 👍👍
Jack Allen if it’s a twin the push rod is probably bent. The valve guides often move out of place on those engines and they need to be pressed back in and notched for placement.
Ustie1 like your videos, most of the Briggs guys say Exhaust valve is mostly reason for hard start condition. But best to do both. The also say once at top dead center on compression stroke to roll after dead center so the gauge tool, screw driver or extension move back in 1/4" then adjust valves there. I am having a similar probl with a 17.5 HP ohv . Thanks and keep the vids coming.
Yup. Initially the decompresser worked on the exhaust valve. Mainly on the bigger hp horizontal shaft motors. First u got to determine if decompresser works on intake or exhaust. On some earlier motors decompresser assembly failed real easy, hence Mustie suggested u check first. Good point.
I had somewhat the same problem with my tractor last year, but also the crap gas ate up the carburetor and the cylinder filled up with gas. I had to put a shut off valve on the gas line and shut it off between using. Great video
+Edward Weber hydro lock will get ya too, make sure you change the oil if that happens as gas will go past the rings and fill the crank case thinning the oil
I had the same problem a few years ago and replaced the battery and solenoid. Then I found a video on the valve adjustment. That solved the problem. They seem to need adjusting every year now.
+Mustie1 Yea I deal with Briggs generators. They need adjustment every 100 hrs, I've found em tight prematurely if they are running warm from blocked fins. Lp fuel is the killer , ive had plenty of the 570,627,and the 992cc Briggs have no clearance if it's gone 150-170hrs without adjusting.
Mustie - thank you for indicating which is the compression stroke to set at (when the valves don't move) .. I've watched plenty of vids on valve adjustments, first time someone has mentioned where exactly to set for the gauge adjustment. I am having the same issue. won't go over the hump unless my battery is freshly fully charged. Otherwise will not crank. thank you !
Mustie1!!! I would of never thought of intake valve adjustment and I tend to leave my valves loose.... Also tightening the back up nut on the + terminal of the starter, 2 excellent points and I thought I knew most everything about small engines!!!!
Nice informative video, Thanks ! I knew a guy who used to work in a Sears small engine repair shop. Their SOP was to convince the customers that the cost for repairs would exceed the cost to purchase new units. After selling new units to the customers, the mechanics would place the `defective` units outside the building in the `junk` pile, then would take the units home and fix them. 99.9% of the units could be fixed for WAY under the cost of new units. Moral of the story is that most people are unknowing and gullible.
I had that same problem and adjusted the valves accordingly, 003 for intake and 005 for exhaust, had the piston at top dead center with 1/4 turn for decompression but still didn't work. What I did was move one valve down and one valve up. Gapped intake to 003 then turned the crank and did the exhaust up at 005 and with that I said "please god let it start" and it did. No more hard compression problems or starting problems.
Had this same issue on a brand new 08 husqvarna, dealership said it was too much compression. They put on a thicker head gasket. Been running great for 12 years now.
Good stuff 😀 like your vids lot of info. I too go to the local dump and look for some possible projects. I'm in a small town so not much of a selection but I do find things to work on. Again I like your vids and info. Thanks
thank you for mentioning the double starter bolt that tightens up the contacts. After swearing at my tractor for several days and doing a major tune up, tightening that solved the starting problem! :)
Perfect fix for my Z225 with a 31XXXX! Thought I was gonna have to buy a new engine since I don't have enough experience to replace the crank. Cranked right up after adjusting the valves even after a year of sitting there. Thanks so much! My intake was at .012 and my exhaust was .022, reset to .004 and .005. Then I could see the "little bump" of de-compression relief.
Thanks for the help, my John Deere is purring again. You probably saved me a couple hundred dollars and gave me the satisfaction of fixing my own stuff!
Hi Mustie Thanks for this video, i have just that problem with a B&S OHV 14,5 hp engine right now. It's a big help for me, please continue your fantastic video productions :) Best /Jesper from Denmark
Above all of the videos on this RUclips you're the only guy who tells how to tell if the compression relief is broken. The best video yet thanks a bunch.
Ok did exactly what he said on my riding mower it was doing the same thing . It worked cranks without any problem . My mower is also a briggs but its a 18.5 but it still worked .
Set both at .004 and no need to go to top dead center ,,turn the engine over till 1 vale is all the way open and the other all the way closed ,,been doing it 20 + years that way ,,your right about looking for that little bump .
I have that same engine in one of mine, and just set the valves to .004, this past weekend.
Thank you for doing what you do.
I appreciate your extra effort to make each step, visually and verbally understandable.
Yes I like the way you explain everything. I’ve definitely learned alot from you already. Thanks for the great videos
Awesome video, I replaced the starter and solenoid first and it ended up being the valves. But my mower is running great now. Thank you.
Enjoy watching your videos! I recently adjusted the valve gap on a 19 HP Briggs Intek OHV and some instructions called for adjusting valves at 1/4" past TDC. So I did with good results. Anyway, thanks for posting videos!
That's correct. That movement past TDC gets you past the decompression part of the cam, and ensures proper gap.
@@peterhodgkins6985 you see other vids showing them doing it by hard rocking one valve and adjusting the other. I wonder if that would would be accurate and avoid the decompress issue. That small 6mm past TDC when adjusting isnt much but will stuff up a accurate adjustment? Also 4 thousanths is the min and thats COLD. So will expand when it all heats up. you dont want to lose any clearance and have the valve riding above the seat or barely touching it.
@@xx3868 ..jl.i290306fe-8328-4e83-81ac-7fd381edb503...j
Wow, I had a major backfire issue through the carb. Watched a million RUclips videos, changed the carb/magneto/spark plug, still no fix. Found this video, drained the oil, and popped off the valve cover: my exhaust valve was out about a full centimeter! Made the adjustment, filled it back up with oil: voila, all fixed! Thank you sir!
That’s crazy! Is it even possible to have a valve go that much out of adjustment?
Great video! I'm having the same issue with my mower and never thought to check that. Going to check the valve clearance and hopefully that fixes the problem. Thanks!!!
As usual, answered ALL my questions in one short video. I'm always impressed by Mustie's work and advice. My favorite youtube channel! Thank you for great information and entertainment. I have learned a LOT from your videos. Please keep it up. 😀😀
THANKS! I had the exact same problem (slow crank) and was hours away from buying a new starter. I checked my valve adjustment, and both were about .005 out. I didn't think that little amount would make a difference ... but it did! I adjusted the valves and it started on the first crank - over and over.
Thanks so much for sharing this. Initially I thought the starter was failing because it was barely turning over even with a jump from a good battery. I was ready to order a replacement when I poked around and found this video. After opening it up I found the valves in fact did need adjustment which was straightforward enough to fix. While I was at it I tightened that nut on the starter that you indicated could be loose. The battery and spark plug also had seen better days, so I went ahead and replaced them as well. Then I crossed my fingers, turned the key and it started right up. Yeah baby!!!! One more thing I can at least cross off the list this weekend. Again, I really appreciate your pointing me in the right direction and saving me time.
Mustie has also saved me many times from trashing a machine or repairing the wrong thing ..thanks mustie
My mower only has 60 hrs on it and this just happened to me. Not battery, not starter or wiring. Adjusted valves to spec, and charged battery, started right up!! whooo f'n hoo!
@@BobSmith-pw6ji
Yep, they say to adjust them after awhile when new, too.
-that’s pretty quick though.
Just performed the valve job you demonstrated. Worked exactly as you described. Thank you so very much!!
Great Vid Mustie !
Last summer I had two Jd mowers .
One I bought and one I repaired for a friend .
The higher hour unit had the very same problem and like you I made the same repair and unfortunately ended up with the same outcome .
Not a total fix ,but one at least that allowed it to start without getting out the boost pack every time .
The one I repaired for a friend had a blown head gasket ( it had 45 hours on it )
The one with the hard start had about 250hrs.
In general ,I've found the Jd units to be very poor quality untill you step up into the commercial lineup which of course comes at a high expense .
Essentially anything you find at a lowes or Home Depot or big box store are going to have sacrifices made to get them in at a price point that consumers will accept .
No or few grease points ,plastic bushings ,poor quality deck bearings,no steering linkage adjusters .
About 10 years ago now I purchased a Husqvarna ,800 hours and no issues with normal maint.
I realize this is an older video but you totally save the day with all of your advice thank you sir. I'm back up and running
My J Deere LA110 blew the head gasket and after I pulled the head, cleaned it up and replaced the gasket I of course had to adjust the valves. Your video was a big help with that process so thanks much. I've never done anything more involved than lube and oil change and replace filters and belts so this job was a huge jump for me. I even got it all back together with no left over hardware! I've been watching your videos for a long time and when I did a search for Briggs & Stratton valves this one popped up and I was like, "Oh it's Mustie1!" I just knew you'd be a help.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! I did everything you showed and my mower starts better than it ever has. Thanks again!
That's exactly the problem i'm having with my briggs. Thanks a lot for the tips, I got some work to do!
Thank you very much for posting this :-) I noticed something on mine I didn't see in the video. I have a Briggs 20 HP (Model# 331777). When I pulled the valve cover off of it the intake rocker arm was definitely loose. To the point to where something else had to be going on. When the engine stopped running it started acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel and then it just shut off. It had been doing the hard to crank, stopping on the compression stroke thing for a while before it shut off. When I pulled the valve cover I noticed a small cap on top of the end of the exhaust valve stem (between the rocker and the stem.) Turns out there was supposed to be one on the intake valve too. No where to be found. Wasn't in the cover when I pulled it. Looks like the caps are there to take up tolerance and to keep the rockers square with the tops of the stems (wider surface area) and or to keep the tops of the stems from eating holes in the rocker arms. Briggs part number or the caps is 691843 for reference.
Wish I'd seen this vid sooner. I did the whole cam replacement gig, when after replacing the head gasket (!) I figured out the valve issue. Cheers.
Very intuitive video. The problem with these valvetrains on the B&S engines is that, after normal engine wear, the valve clearances become excessive. This excessive clearance will not allow decompression.
Thank you for this video - I work on both my Deeres, an LA115 & a D160. Also, my churches two Deeres... I’ll be sure to check these items now if issues arise. I made a Sheet of lessons learned about small engines from you. Thanks again from a friend in Iowa.
Good diagnosis Mustie. When you started the video I said check the valves and connections, it's usually the culprit. Good tip on the compression release valve on how to check to see if it's working.
+snowking55 l could here my ears were ringin
Thank you so much. Just did my first valve job ever and mower starts better than ever.
I’ve learned my lesson about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
4 minutes in and you gave me the hint to solve my issue. Thank you for posting this.
Wow! I've been struggling with starting my Craftsman DYT 4000 Lawn Tractor for years! Swapped out batteries, tried higher CCA batteries with no success. Stumbled across this video and since my tractor has a 31xxxx series engine I decided to check the valve clearance. They were way off! Brought the intake to .003 and the exhaust to .005 and it now cranks/starts with ease! The only difference with my engine was the center "screw" required a T20 star bit and it seems it's only purpose is to lock down the 10mm nut. It was the nut that actually changed the valve clearance. Thanks Mustie1!
Exactly the same problem on my 18.5hp briggs intek engine on my craftsman mower. Verified the gap specs and about 10 min later, my mower was up and running better than it has ran in a long time. Thanks so much!
Thank You!! I've been chasing this problem for some time thinking it was starter/battery related. After numerous searches and found your video. My valves were way out of adjustment, after adjustment the engine cranks over with no hesitation. Starts like a champ now.
Oh yes, checked the connection to the starter. The cable was tight but the inside mut wasn't, took care of that also
For 12 years mine did the same thing. Repaired the ground and adjusted the valves. Works like new. My wife will even drive it now.
Thank you, been having a problem with my L100 not starting, adjusted the valves like you showed and like a new mower. Thanks for showing the details on adjusting the valves saved me from buying a new mower.
Always great stuff!
I've started putting shakeproof lock washers on all those connections for better 'bite'.
I'm having simular issues on a 14.5 hp. First off, thank you for all your tips& fixes. It has help me alot in my projects I've worked on.What is a good web site I can find specs for future small engine projects. I'm always called on from freinds and family, for fixing small engines. I'm like a magnet. Everyone's always turning to me for fixes.thank you again ,love your channel👍👍
Great explanation. This is exactly the problem I am having. Thanks for the video
I have learned so much watching your well done videos. Thank you for what you do!
You are so welcome
Very cool. I could have used this video last summer for my friends Sears that has the same motor. :) However while I got it fixed I did notice one of the push rods was bent, but I never checked the nut on the starter so I will go back and do that when I help them get it ready for the summer mowing season.
I like the way you explain everything. Great video.
Racked my brain over the electrical.. adjusted valves and wala. This worked. Thanks.. solved it.. briggs 18.5
I'm from the UK and have a Toro wheelhorse 12 32 and have had a problem of the starter not working off the battery. I've put up with it for 2 years by putting a jumper on the battery. having seen your video I took off the power lead to the starter and the nut underneath was loose like in your video. it now starts perfectly. many thanks for posting amazing fixes. good job.
glad l was able to help.
Great explanation which will help many folks out. No replacement parts needed - everyone likes those kind of repairs!
+2jeffs1right, just a little time invested
@@mustie1 You fixed 3 things, at least, with no testing between. If you had tested between each item fixed, we would know which one was the main problem.
Best video yet on hard start. I got a new battery, New starter, adjusted Valves and no little bump that I could see when I turned the flywheel by hand. Damn, I think it is the compression release on the cam. Crap. Anyway I watched about 10 other videos and you are the champ. Thanks!
This definitely helped me understand what the hell is going in with my motor. Replaced the battery and starter and still can't get over the hill of the compression stroke. Thanks so much for helping me understand what my problem mist likely is.
Thanks for the tip on the starter stud! My brother had a little 1816B Case skid steer that had a Tecumseh OHV 16 HP in it and it had a hand belt release for the hydros but not the boom and bucket hydraulics and that alone was almost enough to keep the starter from spinning it fast enough to start. Thanks for the tip on the belts. You kinda forget about all this stuff.
Thanks, my problem was too much valve clearance. Didn't know it was that critical. We are back and running again. Thanks again!
Guru time! I thoroughly enjoyed your videos.
Thank you man! I have this exact same mower with this problem. I put a new starter on because it was bad when i purchased it off of a gentleman and it worked for 2 starts then i realized that i only had the issue when its on the compression stroke. Im excited to tear into it tomorrow and hopefully fix it!
I had this problem of hard-starting for 12 years on my Briggs engine. The valves were misadjusted from the factory to the tune of about .008 which would not allow the compression release mechanism to work properly. Finally, discovered this problem, adjusted the valves to the .004 spec. and it now starts like a dream.
Thank you again Mustie. Thats the exact engine and set up in my craftsman Lt 1000. My engine is doing the same thing and it's only intermittent so hopefully not internal. My engine may have a little different valve lash it's the 17.5 intec engine. So that is my project for the morning. Have a good day. I remember you mentioned that compression release on an lt 1000 you worked on in another video so my mind isn't a feeble as some family members say it is. PS I just realized it is after all a Wednesday. So I hope to get over the hump.
Much appreciated for the sharing of your expertise.
Thanks,
Chris
Gatineau, Quebec, Canada
Great video. Not too much fluff - right to the meat, and great explanation/detail. Thanks!!!
Watched 3 mins of this, took the key notes and motor fired right up. Thanks
I can remember when I learned so much in 14 minutes. Thanks for sharing, Mustie.
+A LeBlanc thanks for watchin
Great job with this video man! You saved me alot of money on my Brigs! Love the way you are realy calm in explaining stuff! Instant follow!
Great tutorial and tips Darrin, thanks for sharing.
+The Shade Tree Fix-it Man thanks for watchin george
Very nice video. Very helpful. I have an Intek on my old 2009 John Deere LA105 and for whatever reason, the valves have never gotten out of adjustment since new. I don't know why, but it's nice to see how easy it is if it ever does need it.
I've been having this problem with a cub cadet. I'm headed out now to try all the stuff you talked about. Great videos. You should have your own TV show. Haha Musties Back Yard Mechanics. 👍👍
I recently bought a Craftsman with 24 horse Intek and it's doing the exact same thing. Thanks for sharing!! Very helpful!
Jack Allen if it’s a twin the push rod is probably bent. The valve guides often move out of place on those engines and they need to be pressed back in and notched for placement.
Ustie1 like your videos, most of the Briggs guys say Exhaust valve is mostly reason for hard start condition. But best to do both. The also say once at top dead center on compression stroke to roll after dead center so the gauge tool, screw driver or extension move back in 1/4" then adjust valves there. I am having a similar probl with a 17.5 HP ohv . Thanks and keep the vids coming.
Yup. Initially the decompresser worked on the exhaust valve. Mainly on the bigger hp horizontal shaft motors. First u got to determine if decompresser works on intake or exhaust. On some earlier motors decompresser assembly failed real easy, hence Mustie suggested u check first. Good point.
Watching this 4 year old video is cool to see how far you came. 2020 and the cameras are better and still enjoy your videos ! Keep chugging on.
Wow, thanks!
thanks for the info, i like to learn things and your videos are always good to know stuff.
Greatful! Well-produced and very informative!
You solved my problem! I followed the steps that you laid out, and everything worked well! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Gonna work on mine tomorrow....I have the same issue...Thanks!!! Keep up the great work!
Nice video. Vaseline makes a good dielectric grease. Works great on battery terminals and electric connections for anybody who didn't know.
I had somewhat the same problem with my tractor last year, but also the crap gas ate up the carburetor and the cylinder filled up with gas. I had to put a shut off valve on the gas line and shut it off between using. Great video
+Edward Weber hydro lock will get ya too, make sure you change the oil if that happens as gas will go past the rings and fill the crank case thinning the oil
Big help for me...mine had the same problem and I checked the rockers but I did so on the wrong stroke. Did it as you did and she came back to life!
I took longer to take the body work off than I took to adjust the valves! Awesome video - thanks.
Hey man good information thanks I would’ve never even thought to check the valves
I had the same problem a few years ago and replaced the battery and solenoid. Then I found a video on the valve adjustment. That solved the problem. They seem to need adjusting every year now.
+Mustie1
Yea I deal with Briggs generators.
They need adjustment every 100 hrs, I've found em tight prematurely if they are running warm from blocked fins.
Lp fuel is the killer , ive had plenty of the 570,627,and the 992cc Briggs have no clearance if it's gone 150-170hrs without adjusting.
Mustie - thank you for indicating which is the compression stroke to set at (when the valves don't move) .. I've watched plenty of vids on valve adjustments, first time someone has mentioned where exactly to set for the gauge adjustment. I am having the same issue. won't go over the hump unless my battery is freshly fully charged. Otherwise will not crank. thank you !
Very good video.I've looked at so many.You're went into detail how diagnose and fix compression release issue.
Thanks for sharing this. My D140 twin was doing the same thing and valve adjustment fixed it.
Mustie1!!! I would of never thought of intake valve adjustment and I tend to leave my valves loose.... Also tightening the back up nut on the + terminal of the starter, 2 excellent points and I thought I knew most everything about small engines!!!!
good
You were very thorough. That helps a lot. Thanks
To this day this video is helping folks like me, thank you!
This was excellent. Thanks. Exactly the issue I appear to have.
Thanks for sharing this video great job and detailed in an interesting and informative. I followed your advice and my mower starts much better.
I set mine a quarter inch past tdc, works fine for mine. Great video.
Most Excellent Tutorial! Thank You!
Nice job, hard to hide being a master of your field.
Nice informative video, Thanks ! I knew a guy who used to work in a Sears small engine repair shop. Their SOP was to convince the customers that the cost for repairs would exceed the cost to purchase new units. After selling new units to the customers, the mechanics would place the `defective` units outside the building in the `junk` pile, then would take the units home and fix them. 99.9% of the units could be fixed for WAY under the cost of new units. Moral of the story is that most people are unknowing and gullible.
+ddocspeck no wonder sears is going under,
Omg thank you! Have the same problem. And I hope valve correction will solve my problem!
I had that same problem and adjusted the valves accordingly, 003 for intake and 005 for exhaust, had the piston at top dead center with 1/4 turn for decompression but still didn't work. What I did was move one valve down and one valve up. Gapped intake to 003 then turned the crank and did the exhaust up at 005 and with that I said "please god let it start" and it did. No more hard compression problems or starting problems.
Had this same issue on a brand new 08 husqvarna, dealership said it was too much compression. They put on a thicker head gasket. Been running great for 12 years now.
I’ve got a 19.5 John Deere motor that’s going to benefit beyond words from this video thanks for the help.
Awesome video sir!! Thank you very much. Fixed my woes!
Good stuff 😀 like your vids lot of info. I too go to the local dump and look for some possible projects. I'm in a small town so not much of a selection but I do find things to work on. Again I like your vids and info. Thanks
Thanks for the infos. It's guys like you that make girls like me go outside at 330am to give the old mower another try.
😂
Mechanic of 30 years here, best advice from me is 1-keep the carb clean and make sure you have super hot spark. Nothing lasts forever.
Great video thank you this worked for me. Quick easy fix.
Great video. I recently changed the head gasket and its hard to turn over now so I very well may have messed up the valve adjustment.
Thanks Mustie, Have an L130 that has problems "gettin over the hump" will be servicing her soon, will try these fixes, thanks!
+dtadpole hope it will be your solution
thank you for mentioning the double starter bolt that tightens up the contacts. After swearing at my tractor for several days and doing a major tune up, tightening that solved the starting problem! :)
Perfect fix for my Z225 with a 31XXXX! Thought I was gonna have to buy a new engine since I don't have enough experience to replace the crank. Cranked right up after adjusting the valves even after a year of sitting there. Thanks so much! My intake was at .012 and my exhaust was .022, reset to .004 and .005. Then I could see the "little bump" of de-compression relief.
Thanks for the help, my John Deere is purring again. You probably saved me a couple hundred dollars and gave me the satisfaction of fixing my own stuff!
Thanks for the info, didn't know what to do to adjust the valves for that very problem
Hi Mustie
Thanks for this video, i have just that problem with a B&S OHV 14,5 hp engine right now. It's a big help for me, please continue your fantastic video productions :)
Best
/Jesper from Denmark
Thx.good info can you tell me what the valve lash on a briggs & Stratton 7 hp elite overhead valve motor is for exhaust and intake thanks Tony
Amazing had the same problem and fixed mine with this video playing thank you so much my friend
Above all of the videos on this RUclips you're the only guy who tells how to tell if the compression relief is broken. The best video yet thanks a bunch.
just did my ohv valve clearences. thanks muster onester!
Well done Bud!! It will live to mow another lawn!!☺
+805ROADKING or snow
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Lol yeah
Ok did exactly what he said on my riding mower it was doing the same thing . It worked cranks without any problem . My mower is also a briggs but its a 18.5 but it still worked .