Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
I thought my camshaft video was good! But I will tell you right now this is the most comprehensive easiest to follow video on RUclips great job chickanic!!!!!
Can you upgrade this style engine w/o the oil pump and filter 2 oil pumped and filtered by switching 2 the correct cam, oil pump shaft and sump bottomed version? Thank y'all 4 your time, entertainment and knowledge!
I also have a trick for installing seals. I take a plastic sheet (usually cut from a report cover) and roll it into a tube and coat it with a light film of oil. Place the tube through the seal moving it from the outside in. Slide the tube over the end of the crank and install the cover. Then remove the plastic. The plastic should keep the lip of the seal from rolling when you install the cover.
“Ask me how I know” is something we seldom hear from ‘self proclaimed’ experts who want us to believe they know everything. Your honesty means credibility. Thanks for great content.
I love how you tell everyone that you have gloves but then don't use them. I've found myself coming to see your videos more and more because I've "inherited" some equipment and I can tell you it's never been serviced. Great videos.
Great job! As a retired master technician, there 2 things that I would do slightly different. When torquing anything with more than one bolt, I would first torque everything to half spec. Then retorque to full spec. When adjusting valves, I always recheck them after locking them down. I’ve noticed that those sneaky little buggers like to change their clearance during the lockdown procedure.
Absolutely loved this video. I knew the reason behind the decompression add-on. I'm a little slow in the head and sometimes need a visual along with an explanation because it just sometimes doesn't connect. And now I know definitely how this part actually works. And what that extra little curtsey that the valve is doing and why. I've heard other's speak of the decompression . Never , and I mean never show the operation of it and you're the very first to show that operation of the decompression part . So THANK YOU very much for showing the operation. Once again you've given me more confidence on taking something apart and knowing what and how to fix instead of just finding the problem and just scrapping it once I've found the problem of a discarded machine. I love taking stuff apart and seeing how it works on old dead stuff. But know how to repair it to bring it back to life. To give to someone in need. Glad I found this old video. 👏👏👏👏👍✌️🙃🇨🇦
Letting people know how to diagnose the cam issue was great. Showing people the decompression pin and how it functions was brilliant. Understanding the "what and why" is always better than just knowing the "what".
Got to love the failtek engines. If you ever want to learn how to work on small engine stuff, then it is the perfect engine to start with. They have all kinds of weird stuff go wrong with them. It was the first engine I ever worked on
I replaced a camshaft in one of these last year. It was on a John Deere la105, this mower had slightly over 1100 hours on it. In the spring of this year at 1394 hours it came back with the whole back side of the block blown out. After removing the engine and investigating I found it had broken both counter vibration connecting rods and threw the counter vibration weight out the back of the block. The crazy thing about it was the engine would still run because it hadn't broken the piston connecting rod. The elderly couple that owned it mowed for a few minutes with the back of the block blown out till it soaked the belts with enough oil that it quit pulling and stopped. It was definitely one for the record books. I ended up replacing the engine with an older low hour ohv Briggs. I took pictures of it because I knew most people wouldn't believe it lol.
Wow hard to believe it had 1394 hrs on it. Ihave one with 800 hrs and have had to replace the cam and head gasket. Don't think these 105's were made to last that long. Atleast they dont have plastic trans.
As a 28 year professional small engine mechanic. She always on point with her diagnosis and repairs. She has been at this for a while, she knows what typical problems each machine has.
Change the motor takes 5 mins , dime a dozen …. No motor that’s not cast iron sleeve I/c is junk period ! U know it lol Who rebuilds mower motors anymore lol
Wow. You are a true master mechanic and teacher. Put the video in my saved files. I’ve got a 6.75 hp Briggs engine that is misbehaving. Really learning a lot from you. Thank you for sharing.
As a small engine mechanic, it makes me so proud to see awesome ladies like yourself in the same industry. I love watching video's from those who do the same work, and I thoroughly enjoyed your video, along with the humor in it lol. Briggs is pretty much a dead company now after they filed for bankruptcy and liquidated their assets. I am just sad that they had to take Snapper with them. So glad I got my Snapper mower in 2017 when I did, can't buy new ones anymore.
Walmart kept bringing up Snapper in stores in 2019 I think it was a 23hp 46". Was that just a rebadge from another company? It seemed like a good deal at $1900 but just couldn't bring myself to buy a mower from Walmart.
They pulled Victa down as well. Our 2012 Victa (the last of the solid Victa's) has a Honda engine before B.S. bought the company. Now they've got B.S. junk. Our pre B.S. Honda powered Victa is kept and done up with new parts as needed. One solid rig.
You are one tough chick for sure. I always tell my daughters that they can accomplish anything if they put their mind to it. You are living proof of that and inspirational to young women. I’m kinda glad that I don’t have to fight with my wife over taking my tools though, lol! I love the music that plays when you fast forward.
I had a woman call me one night at work complaining her power was out. I began to talk her through troubleshooting on the phone before sending a serviceman out and she told me "Oh, I don't know how to do that. I'm just a woman!" I actually mildly scolded her for that, told her that women can do just about anything a man can do, and proceeded to talk her into opening up her breaker panel and resetting her main. Would have taken 10 times longer if she'd have had to sit and wait for a service tech to come out and show her how. She was appreciative of that. I just hoped I helped her in at least the littlest way that being "just a woman" is no excuse not to try to do simple things.
You're exactly correct on the aftermarket camshafts. A customer brought me an Amazon kit and it lasted literally 3 cuttings of his yard. It's almost like the lobes were over advanced just enough to make it sound funny upon start up from the beginning. Great advice on OEM parts. I ordered an OEM to replace it so he doesn't have any more issues. It's not worth the cheaper price if you have to do it twice. Thanks!
If he keeps the motor you're going to do it again anyway. Three to four hundred hours max before it breaks again. The one you replaced the first time was OEM.
Yep, been there. Had to replace mine last year on my Briggs. The hardest thing was removing the engine from the mower. Got everything back together, verified that it started and immediately put a For Sale sign on the mower. Even though it wasn't a terribly difficult job, it wasn't one I wanted to do again. Got a mower with a Kawasaki engine this time so we will see how it goes.
I just purchased a Craftsman DLS3500 46” Riding Lawn Mower Tractor (2007) with a B&S 31P977-0635 E1 engine. When cranking to start, the engine would hesitate, then continue cranking and then start. Based on this video I removed the valve cover and checked for a bump and there was one but it was very small. The intake was 0.014” and after I set it to .004” it starts perfectly. By the way, girls that like tools are really hot. Thank you very much for the information.
Excellent repair video! Maybe the best I ve ever watched,and I watch a lot of repair videos ! Being retired from the railroad as a repairman, I fill my days now fixing up old stuff . I love old machinery,motorcycles,Gravely Walking Tractors. I was given a 20 HP Craftsman in like new condition ,A few years old only . It needed just a new battery cable and the Variable drive pulley unstuck. After mowing with it a few times ,I discovered the drive belt system just going slower all the time other times its ok. Well I put new drive belts on and was test running the tractor up on stands so I could see belts engaging while running !All was fine until the variable pulley I had repaired decided to stick again . It wrapped the belt around itself and stopped engine abruptly. Now the engine doesn't want to turn over ,like its stuck . Checked my valve adjustments ,they are ok . I remove spark plug and engine turns over ? So , I am very sadly convinced my decompression device has shit the bed ! After watching your excellent video ,I am beginning to believe that even though the mower looks like new and ran excellent before , I now need to buy the Variable Drive Pulley and probably the new cam from Briggs . During your video you showed the governor and they look like a ticking time bomb waiting to explode ,as in made with lot of cheap parts . Maybe time to junk the like new tractor ! I mistakenly gave away my 16 HP Briggs powered tractor that ran like a charm to a kid starting out , sold my 17 hp Briggs with full plow for 100 bucks because I now had this shiny new to me Craftsman 20 HP. Both my other Briggs tractors I was given in need of repairs . I put head gaskets on & mowed for years . Great engines . I am not a New Briggs fan after seeing the design of the failing compression release . Briggs should of recalled the engine if so many failed. Any way ,your video was excellent ,detailed ! I think I am gonna just stick to my three old Gravelys ,built like tanks ,all 1960 models and run like Swiss watches.
Super tutorial. I have been working 3 of these for friends, but haven’t found a bad Cam yet. However, now I suspect an old craftsman that has never had the valves adjusted, is the cure for this old twin B&as Thank You!!
years ago i used to rebuild kohler k series, i rebuilt several of them. the camshafts were almost always reused and never wore out, the tappets were flat tappets, the crankshaft supported by large ball bearings which almost never failed. dissemble, hone the cylinder or have it bored out, have the crank turned. new piston, rod, rings, valves, valve guides, valve seats.... and you would essentially have a brand new engine that would last another 1,000+ hours. those are antiques and almost extinct.
You are a joy to watch as you explain everything so well. What came over to me was STAY AWAY FROM BRIGGS INTEK. After all, if they have done so much improvement that they needed a new part number, but the problem is the same old same old, it is certainly worth looking a a different motor maker.
It might have something to do with which one you choose. I have a 19.5 HP Intek twin. It doesn't have that compression release on it, not sure if the new twins have it now or not. Mine does not have it, it relies solely on intake/exhaust valve opening overlap for the compression release. That one needs the valves set every 60 - 100 hrs or so, or it gets very hard to start. 60 hours for me with that mower was 15 weeks or about 4 months, and the mowing season here is about 8 months long, plus another 2 or 3 times in between over the winter. So basically I had to run the valves on it once a year.
I had 21hp inteck. Just after the warranty ran out head gasket went.Cleaned and checked head and block. Replaced gasket. It blew between the thin strip between cylinder and pushrods. 1yr later...same failure...repaired again .Start of new season cam went...so mower went... S&B poor design that's why engines fail.Had Agway prior to Deere over 20 yrs.then block cracked...Then got Deere, mower good ..engine suck !!!
Before pulling a cam shaft out, I normally conform that I know where the timing marks are. If a mark is missing or obliterated, I mark the drive gear while I still have the old shaft in it's original position for a reference. If you have had stray pieces of metal floating around inside the crank case (like a broken cam), there is the possibility that marks have been altered. Don't ask me how I know that. That aside, thanks for posting. This was a good overview of how this motor goes together. I would be able to do the job after watching this video.
Someone should organize a class action suit against Briggs for this defect that should have been a recall to provide an updated part that doesn't fail so easily.
By far the best and most informative person and understandable person in the world with no attitude and no bunch of bull**** that most videos on u tube seem to have she has saved me much frustration time $$$$ on all of my small engine and equipment problems I WILL NOT ATTEMPT ANY REPAIR ON ANY OF THEM WITHOUT WATCHING HER VIDEOS I wished she would branch out into trucks,automotive, tractors , equipment, implements, appliances, and basically anything else that repair and maintenance has to be done on that would make my and everyone else's life so much easier and enjoyable and on top of all of that she's DAMN GOOD LOOKING
Best how to video on the net. I watched a couple before this one and was still sketchy about doing the job. Now I'm confident I can. Thank you for putting it out there for us to see.
Thanks for the instructional video....I'm getting ready to tackle a 16.5 hp B & S Intek which I believe has a broken compression release valve. I recently used your video to replace the rear axle seals on my own tractor. Your instruction is clear and concise! Between your videos and Donyboy73, you guys are the best on RUclips. Keep up the great work and thanks for the effort you put into these videos.
I've heard of Briggs engines having lack of lubrication problems on the top ends and the guy at the Ace Hardware shop told me they use longer oil filters and it increases the oil capacity and fixes the oil starvation problems. Hope this helps others
Have an older B&S 18.5 single on cub cadet I use a Motorcraft FL400S, for giggles I installed a few magnets I tore off a magnetic tool strip from Harbor Fr Zip tied 3 of them on. I also use Harley Davidson oil. The mower is about 20 yrs. old with 325 hrs.(one owner, small yard) Just replaced head gasket and valves didn't know about Cam shaft.
I’ve learned my lesson about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
This was a very worthwhile video, the more complicated repairs are to me the most interesting. Love the way you demonstrate how to do this work, great video!
Great video. I understand your just doing an instructional but you should always emphasize the use prelube all contact points especially the cam bearing points using an assembly lube like gear oil or motor oil, grease on tappets for push rods etc. Any engine that is reassembled should be prelubed.
I watched a lot of videos (and read a lot of forums) before doing this repair. Like others, I got to this diagnosis after a dead battery, then a burnt out alternator (also replaced). I happen to have the exact same engine you worked on, from a Husqvarna riding mower. I only got 3 years on the first cam shaft, if this breaks again I may look into an engine swap to a two cylinder. Your video highlighted in advance several "ask me how I know" moments that a DIYer like myself might make. Even your point about checking the valve clearances after a test ride.
While I probably won't attempt this myself it does explain exactly what is going on with my mower's engine. Makes it a lot easier to talk to my SE mechanic. Thanks.
Absolutely the best camshaft video on RUclips. What is funny here is I have just the opposite issue that you had on this engine. I am getting the intake valve bump on each stroke after it is running. it backfires and shuts down. The other thing is that I have read some of the comments below and find everybody that is anybody thinks you are the best of the best. You have a new subscriber. I have been fighting this engine for a few months off and on. I am 90% sure this is the problem. If not, I will let you know what I find. I am on my way out to the shop to remove the engine from the tractor and clean it up.
Thank you!!! You do an excellent job of showing and explaining what needs to be done for a number of different repairs. I have learned a lot from you and can see why your subs are growing so fast.
Thank you very much for the excellent video. I thought my Briggs & Stratton Intek needed a valve adjustment. I watched several videos and tried many times to get the engine started, with no success. After watching your video, I now know the reason is the camshaft has failed. I am going to attempt to replace it like you showed in your video. I feel that if someone is patient and determined, he or she can duplicate what you have shown in this video. Much love and appreciation to you!
Great video. I went through all of this a year ago for a bad camshaft(aftermarket). Briggs 17.5 .Ran great all season. This season, ran good until it stalled out and now will not start. It cranks easy, not struggling to get past compression, replaced carb, magneto, adjusted valves just like you did. Turns over, gets spark, but muffler gets piping hot. Sprayed some cleaner into plug hole. Followed directions on can. Tried to fire up. Only thing that changed is that muffler now stays cool but engine will not fire up. At my wits end. I'm thinking camcshaft. As you say, ask me how I know. Thanks again
Getting into the crankcase is very similar on a 3 or 5 HP or one of these big boys. Same steps and care to not mess up the governor and to clean off the gasket surfaces. So this video is good for those of us who have no space for riders, but still have to get in and replace a governor or camshaft. Of course, the little ones do not have the oil pump to consider. I have a few questions. I assume you lubed the cam and just did not show it. Correct? the new lifters are interchangeable between Intake & Exhaust? If the lifters were being reused, is it important to put the Intake back in the intake and the Exhaust back into the Exhaust? Here in Flint, there are many retired GM employees. I have had several tell me that GM was a great company when it was run by Engineers. Each year they looked at the problems that would develop and make changes to fix that weakness. According to the Retirees, what ruined GM was the Engineers were make to take a back seat to the cost accountants. "Make it better" was replaced by "Make it cheaper" and the damage destroyed the company. I suspect many once great companies were ruined by the Accountants, Briggs included. Ignoring known problems to keep a price point might work in the short run, but not long term. The GM Ignition Switch problem was the same thing. Make it Cheaper cost people their lives when the car died at a bad time because of a switch that should have been fixed, but was ignored and continued. Good Video!!
I've the same problem many thanks for this video as a machinist over 50+ years I just parked the mower in the barn. I never go into any Maintenace without checking how to do the job by usually a manual or like this tutorial. Again, thank you for the infomation.
I'm learning how to fix my riding lawn mowers. Out of all the guys I have watched...you really did a good job from start to finish. You were very easy to follow..I'm a lady also and sometimes the guys just go way to fast.....
I've noticed on the compression release failures on the Briggs engines it's most always in the same place, where the metal is machined thin. You'd think after so many issues with these Briggs would've done a little correcting on it. Oh well, guess they gotta make that money. Another nice video Chickanic ☻
Thanks John! Just to let you know, I was waiting to send packages until I got stickers done. I did get your Chickanic shirt made. ;-) Sending a hat too.
@@Chickanic awesome, thanks so much, I'll wear it with Chickanic pride!!! Heck I wear overalls like MowerMedic1, teeth like Taryl's, tats like Mick's and white hair like Mustie's but it has yet to make me a better mower mechanic. :)
Indeed!!! My John Deere store has had so many of these camshaft replacements they have actually made an art sculpture for the shop on display! Seems like a recall or class action lawsuit is appropriate. Mine failed after 49 hours. Estimated cost for repair...$605 Labor was $345. They were even charging $50 shipping on the parts. WHAT A RIPOFF!
It’s ridiculous they haven’t corrected it after all these years, they know there’s a problem, fix it so we don’t have to spent this enormous amount each time it fails. Thanks Steven 👍🏼
A huge compliment to you for producing a safe, clean demonstration on repairing this major problem and representing the true professional mechanical technicians!
To reinstall the pan with the old seal in place a real thin piece of around .003 shimstock placed around the crank at the seal location then when installing the pan gently squeeze the shimstock until it is inside the seal lip, then press the pan into place then gently remove the shimstock. The tip of a screwdriver can damage the seal surface.👍 Another way is to put the shimstock inside the seal and direct it over the crank as you install the pan once the seal is over the edge onto the crank gently remove the shimstock
The newer cams are pressed together of pieces, not cast. The washer on one end slid on the splines that keep it from turning. The cam slid upward far enough to disconnect the oil pump drive. It broke the bottom cover when it pried itself out, resulting in a visible oil leak in time to shut it down. The older cams are cast, the bosses are bigger and will not interchange. The holes in the case can not be enlarged to fit the older cam because they are too thin. The older series of engines are better, and worth keeping running.
My 91 year old mother-in-law called me says my lawn mower starter is smoking. Nota common problem. I order a starter and solenoid and go to her house 30 miles away. She bought a new battery. I replace the starter and solenoid. Try to start engine won't go past compression. She then tells me it backfired. I know immediately what is wrong. I don't want to do it ,not hard but I thought it would be easier to take to Ag Pro in Middleburg, FL. I told them what it needed. Two days later they call and said it only needed a battery. I said the battery was new he says it was bad I sad I need the old battery he says I would have a $26.00 core charge. I go pick it up they charge me $205.00. I got the old battery Drove 45miles home . Guess what it won't start. Called them and he said to bring it back I said I don't think I will be bringing anything back there. I call the main Ag Pro on Philips highway, Jacksonville, Fl. told what happened, they said to bring to them. Drove there explaining that I needed the camshaft replaced, broken compression release. Two weeks later they call and say that they adjusted the values, and would 3 more hours diagnostic time, I ask when he adjusted the valves didn't he notice the compression release was not working She said she would check with the tech and call me beck. When she calls back they don't need the diag. time that they could replace the engine for $1050.00 or the camshaft would be about the same price. I said I will come get the mower. I go in the rain to get it, we load it buy a camshaft from there parts room drive home in a rain storm, back the trailer in my shop out of the rain. Lower the tail gate and first thing I see is the gas cap is off been sitting in the rain no cap. Open hood spark plug wire off, no plug in engine. I take fuel line off tried to turn engine with starter dead, check my new battery I just paid $205.00 for it had .46v. Removed engine and camshaft compression release broke in six pieces. Removed valve cover gasket gone. Sorry this is so long. Ed in Callahan, FL. I have made a living for over 50 years repairing auxiliary equipment large and small. Never seen so much diagnostic time for a one cylinder briggs that are known for this problem.
Forget about the diagnosis time - what about the incredible incompetence of these so-called professional repair shops? I’m 71 now and have been doing all my small (and large) engine repairs since I was 14. I don’t trust any shop to fix things correctly, period. I just finished a 106% rebuild on a Cub Cadet Tank 60 Commercial zero turn mower. It was so screwed over when I bought it last year and much of the damage was done by previous shops. Runs great now and reduced my mowing time from three hours initially to exactly one hour.
You did an amazing job of explaining the cam replacement l have been doing golf course maintenance for 30 years you put most instructors to shame thank you from Canada
Briggs should have continued to use their patented machined bump on cam lobe for compression release like the classic flatheads! And the one piece cast cam. Never had these problems with briggs flathead engines. I have an 8 hp horizontal shaft flathead briggs nearly 40 years old and still runs good after wearing out the troy bilt tiller it was on ! I have been repairing small engines for 40 years and never before seen such cheap made junk!
Chisel, scraper made from cold saw blade or a gasket scraper: www.tomorrowstechnician.com/new-gasket-scrapers-from-lang-tools/ I use a scraper made from a cold saw blade - way better steel than anything else, but a sharpened flat file isn't bad either
my mower wont crank, you said check the valve actuation, i did. you were 100% right. Motor out, base off, and the decompression lever pieces were all broken. thank you. off to buy parts tomorrow.
This is a crazy world were living in you responded to me a few weeks ago about your kubota tractor. Well I have been trying to fix a lawn mower that I have so I can give it to my 82 year old neighbor. Been trying to adjust the valves on 19 hp Intek I will not turn over for nothing so I looked for the little bump on the rocker an nothing . Thank you so very much for showing me that
There was a time if you had a Briggs you had the fastest and most dependable mini bike in town. Of course we took them apart for the fun of it, sometimes even made new head gaskets out of cereal boxes. That was a loong time ago. Its amazing to me that a company like Briggs would gamble a great hard earned reputation to save .50 cents . Another great video, keep em coming!!!
Thanks for this video. My cam broke last year. Somehow managed to make it crank for 6 months until it finally busted the relay. That's when I gave up and watching your video got an idea of how everything went. I chose not to go back with a new camshaft. Even the Briggs & Stratton AMAZON account has reviews that state the newest cams being sold are cheap china knockoffs and are breaking the cam within 3 or 4 months of replacement. On my 17.5 it has the cylinder air filter, unlike the older 2005 briggs style oblong shape. So taking the filter off is easy enough and the air inlet port is easy to cover with your fingers. I ran mine last week after the clean out of cam shrapnel left inside. Ran very good. Feels a little peppier in taller grass than it did with the counter weight attached. Hopefully she's golden for awhile now. Keeping that mower after buying a LT1 50" the other week also. The Troy Bilt will be my hillside mower while my LT1 50 will handle the bliss of the flatland.... Thanks again for a great informative video.
Thanks for the great video. I was pretty sure the automatic compression release had broken on my B&S engine. The valves were adjusted perfectly, the battery was charged and less than a year old. But the starter could barely turn the engine over. I didn't want to go to all the trouble of removing and opening up the engine and find that my theory was wrong. I turned the engine over by hand and watched the intake valve, as you instructed. There was no little hiccup so I opened the engine up. There at the bottom of the crankcase were the pieces of the compression release! The new cam and related gaskets and seals are on order (genuine B&S). Thank you @Chickanic!
I repair small engine equipment not full time but a side job. Im not a pro but been doing it over 20yr at my home shop. Intek Briggs are aweful. Cost of my labor and camshaft and seals and oil pan gasket not cheap. Cheaper to find good used engine especially if the bad one has a lot of hours or not maintained like supposed to. But I still have people that want to keep the original engine. Up to them. I just inform them and do what they want!
Thanks for the great video and your help. Don't forget to tell people to oil parts before assembly or they might put them in dry and especially pour some oil into the oil pump.
Just did this job today, only the decompression lever went through the cam gear and broke 1/4 of the gear off. Don't believe the any body that sayes " it stopped and I think it ran out of gas" typical briggs and scrap iron. Thank You
Thank you for this video. I am now in the process of replacing the cam due to a compression release failure, I found that the main drive pulley bolt was so tight it would not even loosen with an air impact wrench so I heated the bolt using a torch (with wife close by with a fire extinguisher), and the bolt came loose immediately . Pass this along if you like.
Thank you for this video, it helped me when I went to check my decompression spring, even though it turned out to only be a bent aluminum pushrod-which I replaced with a steel one. Never knew it was necessary to check the lash every year or so.
Great job! the only thing I would add would be to inspect and retrieve all broken parts, there was no mention about where the spring went etc. And lubricating all wear points during assembly.
Great video!!! Honestly one of the better detailed and great flow. I just finished my repair and followed this video. Two of the sump bolts didn't take. One broke while torturing and the other stripped out. But it's going back on the tractor. I guess I'll see 🤙
A most excellent video, especially the detailed explanation on the compression release. May I suggest a tool for you to use while installing the cover back on & the shaft seal. Perhaps instead of using a screw driver, try a transmission lip seal installation tool. It's a tool with a thin/thicker piece of wire on each end. The wires are bent into a loop & crimped on each end. The rounded edges diminish the possibility of cutting a seal. If you do a search, it'll come up. Thanks for taking the time to make this most informative video.
Very cool. Almost a timely posting. I did my 540cc last weekend. The operation was a success. I got lucky with a Briggs dealer just 4 miles away who had all of the parts including the cam for reasonable prices even compared to online prices. And the guy was very helpful!
Local is usually better support local businesses im 15 and work at my local mower shop. anybody can fix lawn equipment with a little interest and motivation you can do it also having all the tools really helps most people don’t have a lot of tools or access
What a great video Ms Chic, wish this video came out 4 months earlier, same thing happened on my Husqvarna Tractor same motor, was at the end of the warrenty they sent it out to get fixed, it came back, notice oil leak and sent it out again.. I used 3 or 4 times and noticed it blowing oil out the case. took the motor off and there was a hole in the block and one of the bolts holding the sump cover on was only finger tight, l took the cover off and they had broken the casting and tried to jb weld it. Of course they said nothing they could do was off warrenty. Tried to find one of these motors good luck, ended up buying a old John Deere with the 17 horse motor on it. was an older 5 speed and didnt care for that but paid very short money, took the motor out and dropped it in the husq and off l went.. Next time l have this video and will do it myself. Thanks this was a great video
Thank you for making this! You saved me $350 in labor charges AND 3 weeks lead time to get it fixed! My B&S warranty expired 18 days before the little rod snapped off. Figures...
After replacing the mechanism 3 times in 2 years on one tractor . . . My fix now is . . . permanent, easier, and cheaper. ruclips.net/video/c8SUueqRzAs/видео.html I have heard that stacking multiple head gaskets will do the same thing as my fix. I have yet another mower with the same problem that I will try that on.
Another careful and meticulous job (in the wood pile no less!) that shouldn't have needed to be done. The inside of that engine was pristine! It's obviously been well cared for, and judging by the wear on the gear teeth and the lifters has low run hours. What a terrible design on the part of B&S that those decompression release components fail so easily. I might have given B&S some slack if this was a neglected and abused engine, but this one looked brand new! I'm glad you were able to do a proper repair and return this unit to your customer. I hope your customers appreciate what you do for them.
Best video I watched to change the cam. Seems that the Briggs cams are the same Chicom parts that are on Amazon for $30. My 21hp single cylinder starts like new now. The only time I got stumped after watching your great show was by lining up at the slot mark on the cam instead of that damn tiny dot and it would not drop in. Rookie mistake. I hope this one lasts 12 years like the original cause this was a pita. Thanks
Another thing for me to look forward to on this engine. I have replace the head gasket twice on this model of engine over the course of about 6-7 years because it started blowing blue smoke. On the second replacement, I messed up the valve gaps and couldn’t get it started. If this is that common, I guess it’s only a matter of time until I’ll need to replace the cam shaft.
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
I always enjoy your videos very helpful thanks keep up the good work
How do you remove the belt pulley without damaging it?
Your the only person that mentioned the governor gear line up and the only person to show a torque pattern Thank you
I thought my camshaft video was good! But I will tell you right now this is the most comprehensive easiest to follow video on RUclips great job chickanic!!!!!
You're too kind! Thanks Darlin'!
@@Chickanic awsome
Response to title question. No my briggs is fine. My kolher knocks when it heats up.
@@Chickanic lllllllllllllppppplppppplplp1pp
Can you upgrade this style engine w/o the oil pump and filter 2 oil pumped and filtered by switching 2 the correct cam, oil pump shaft and sump bottomed version? Thank y'all 4 your time, entertainment and knowledge!
I also have a trick for installing seals. I take a plastic sheet (usually cut from a report cover) and roll it into a tube and coat it with a light film of oil. Place the tube through the seal moving it from the outside in. Slide the tube over the end of the crank and install the cover. Then remove the plastic. The plastic should keep the lip of the seal from rolling when you install the cover.
“Ask me how I know” is something we seldom hear from ‘self proclaimed’ experts who want us to believe they know everything. Your honesty means credibility. Thanks for great content.
I love how you tell everyone that you have gloves but then don't use them.
I've found myself coming to see your videos more and more because I've "inherited" some equipment and I can tell you it's never been serviced.
Great videos.
I know this is 3 years old, but you saved me money on this. Thank you so much for your video.
Great job! As a retired master technician, there 2 things that I would do slightly different. When torquing anything with more than one bolt, I would first torque everything to half spec. Then retorque to full spec. When adjusting valves, I always recheck them after locking them down. I’ve noticed that those sneaky little buggers like to change their clearance during the lockdown procedure.
What he said! I usually go 50% torque all around
Then 75%.
Then final torque settings.
Last valve reset I did it took several attempts. Slightest movement and damn lol. Even when it seems you’ve not allowed it to move.
As a 30 year transmission builder, we were taught to torque at specified torque, wait a minute and let gaskets form, them go back over them.
As a 100 year old steam boiler repairer I'd use a 20lb sledge hammer & flogging spannerand if that fails use a helicoil & Loctite 😀
On these small engines with AL cases, doing half torque spec. Then full torque spec will over torque it, and risk pulling out the threads.
Absolutely loved this video. I knew the reason behind the decompression add-on. I'm a little slow in the head and sometimes need a visual along with an explanation because it just sometimes doesn't connect. And now I know definitely how this part actually works. And what that extra little curtsey that the valve is doing and why. I've heard other's speak of the decompression . Never , and I mean never show the operation of it and you're the very first to show that operation of the decompression part . So THANK YOU very much for showing the operation. Once again you've given me more confidence on taking something apart and knowing what and how to fix instead of just finding the problem and just scrapping it once I've found the problem of a discarded machine. I love taking stuff apart and seeing how it works on old dead stuff. But know how to repair it to bring it back to life. To give to someone in need. Glad I found this old video. 👏👏👏👏👍✌️🙃🇨🇦
Letting people know how to diagnose the cam issue was great. Showing people the decompression pin and how it functions was brilliant. Understanding the "what and why" is always better than just knowing the "what".
You are very patient, careful, deliberate. You know just what to do. Great tutorial.
Got to love the failtek engines. If you ever want to learn how to work on small engine stuff, then it is the perfect engine to start with. They have all kinds of weird stuff go wrong with them. It was the first engine I ever worked on
The way the rockers are put on makes me cringe! What a weak looking setup!
That is so true. Just having this engine is vastly multiplying my abilities as an amateur mechanic (not that I wished for that)
Whichever YT channel takes the time to do the most ultra close-ups of the hard parts wins. You win this round.
I replaced a camshaft in one of these last year. It was on a John Deere la105, this mower had slightly over 1100 hours on it. In the spring of this year at 1394 hours it came back with the whole back side of the block blown out. After removing the engine and investigating I found it had broken both counter vibration connecting rods and threw the counter vibration weight out the back of the block. The crazy thing about it was the engine would still run because it hadn't broken the piston connecting rod. The elderly couple that owned it mowed for a few minutes with the back of the block blown out till it soaked the belts with enough oil that it quit pulling and stopped. It was definitely one for the record books. I ended up replacing the engine with an older low hour ohv Briggs. I took pictures of it because I knew most people wouldn't believe it lol.
Wow hard to believe it had 1394 hrs on it. Ihave one with 800 hrs and have had to replace the cam and head gasket. Don't think these 105's were made to last that long. Atleast they dont have plastic trans.
As a 28 year professional small engine mechanic. She always on point with her diagnosis and repairs. She has been at this for a while, she knows what typical problems each machine has.
Change the motor takes 5 mins , dime a dozen …. No motor that’s not cast iron sleeve I/c is junk period ! U know it lol
Who rebuilds mower motors anymore lol
Everyone has already said it, but this is one of the best tutorials ive seen...clear, great angles, and covered all the points... Thank you
Wow. You are a true master mechanic and teacher. Put the video in my saved files. I’ve got a 6.75 hp Briggs engine that is misbehaving. Really learning a lot from you. Thank you for sharing.
Cant thank you enough for breaking this down for me! Just replaced my camshaft on my 15 y/o Craftsman, this guide worked flawlessly.
I have to say I've developed a crush here. Easily the most succinct how-to I've come across. Thank you
As a small engine mechanic, it makes me so proud to see awesome ladies like yourself in the same industry. I love watching video's from those who do the same work, and I thoroughly enjoyed your video, along with the humor in it lol. Briggs is pretty much a dead company now after they filed for bankruptcy and liquidated their assets. I am just sad that they had to take Snapper with them. So glad I got my Snapper mower in 2017 when I did, can't buy new ones anymore.
Walmart kept bringing up Snapper in stores in 2019 I think it was a 23hp 46". Was that just a rebadge from another company? It seemed like a good deal at $1900 but just couldn't bring myself to buy a mower from Walmart.
They pulled Victa down as well. Our 2012 Victa (the last of the solid Victa's) has a Honda engine before B.S. bought the company. Now they've got B.S. junk.
Our pre B.S. Honda powered Victa is kept and done up with new parts as needed. One solid rig.
I love watching your videos, you are very knowledgeable more than any one doing small engines.
You are one tough chick for sure. I always tell my daughters that they can accomplish anything if they put their mind to it. You are living proof of that and inspirational to young women. I’m kinda glad that I don’t have to fight with my wife over taking my tools though, lol! I love the music that plays when you fast forward.
I had a woman call me one night at work complaining her power was out. I began to talk her through troubleshooting on the phone before sending a serviceman out and she told me "Oh, I don't know how to do that. I'm just a woman!" I actually mildly scolded her for that, told her that women can do just about anything a man can do, and proceeded to talk her into opening up her breaker panel and resetting her main. Would have taken 10 times longer if she'd have had to sit and wait for a service tech to come out and show her how. She was appreciative of that. I just hoped I helped her in at least the littlest way that being "just a woman" is no excuse not to try to do simple things.
You're exactly correct on the aftermarket camshafts. A customer brought me an Amazon kit and it lasted literally 3 cuttings of his yard. It's almost like the lobes were over advanced just enough to make it sound funny upon start up from the beginning. Great advice on OEM parts. I ordered an OEM to replace it so he doesn't have any more issues. It's not worth the cheaper price if you have to do it twice. Thanks!
If he keeps the motor you're going to do it again anyway. Three to four hundred hours max before it breaks again. The one you replaced the first time was OEM.
@@shealdedmon7027 The original only lasted 175 hours. I hope this one lasts a little bit longer. Thanks!
Yep, been there. Had to replace mine last year on my Briggs. The hardest thing was removing the engine from the mower. Got everything back together, verified that it started and immediately put a For Sale sign on the mower. Even though it wasn't a terribly difficult job, it wasn't one I wanted to do again. Got a mower with a Kawasaki engine this time so we will see how it goes.
I'll do it again.
I just purchased a Craftsman DLS3500 46” Riding Lawn Mower Tractor (2007) with a B&S 31P977-0635 E1 engine. When cranking to start, the engine would hesitate, then continue cranking and then start. Based on this video I removed the valve cover and checked for a bump and there was one but it was very small. The intake was 0.014” and after I set it to .004” it starts perfectly.
By the way, girls that like tools are really hot.
Thank you very much for the information.
Excellent repair video! Maybe the best I ve ever watched,and I watch a lot of repair videos ! Being retired from the railroad as a repairman, I fill my days now fixing up old stuff . I love old machinery,motorcycles,Gravely Walking Tractors. I was given a 20 HP Craftsman in like new condition ,A few years old only . It needed just a new battery cable and the Variable drive pulley unstuck. After mowing with it a few times ,I discovered the drive belt system just going slower all the time other times its ok. Well I put new drive belts on and was test running the tractor up on stands so I could see belts engaging while running !All was fine until the variable pulley I had repaired decided to stick again . It wrapped the belt around itself and stopped engine abruptly. Now the engine doesn't want to turn over ,like its stuck . Checked my valve adjustments ,they are ok . I remove spark plug and engine turns over ? So , I am very sadly convinced my decompression device has shit the bed ! After watching your excellent video ,I am beginning to believe that even though the mower looks like new and ran excellent before , I now need to buy the Variable Drive Pulley and probably the new cam from Briggs . During your video you showed the governor and they look like a ticking time bomb waiting to explode ,as in made with lot of cheap parts . Maybe time to junk the like new tractor ! I mistakenly gave away my 16 HP Briggs powered tractor that ran like a charm to a kid starting out , sold my 17 hp Briggs with full plow for 100 bucks because I now had this shiny new to me Craftsman 20 HP. Both my other Briggs tractors I was given in need of repairs . I put head gaskets on & mowed for years . Great engines . I am not a New Briggs fan after seeing the design of the failing compression release . Briggs should of recalled the engine if so many failed. Any way ,your video was excellent ,detailed ! I think I am gonna just stick to my three old Gravelys ,built like tanks ,all 1960 models and run like Swiss watches.
Super tutorial. I have been working 3 of these for friends, but haven’t found a bad Cam yet. However, now I suspect an old craftsman that has never had the valves adjusted, is the cure for this old twin B&as Thank You!!
years ago i used to rebuild kohler k series, i rebuilt several of them. the camshafts were almost always reused and never wore out, the tappets were flat tappets, the crankshaft supported by large ball bearings which almost never failed. dissemble, hone the cylinder or have it bored out, have the crank turned. new piston, rod, rings, valves, valve guides, valve seats.... and you would essentially have a brand new engine that would last another 1,000+ hours.
those are antiques and almost extinct.
Landlord just ordered a s100 John deer. This may be just what I need to keep the acre estate clean all year! Thanks!
You are a joy to watch as you explain everything so well. What came over to me was STAY AWAY FROM BRIGGS INTEK. After all, if they have done so much improvement that they needed a new part number, but the problem is the same old same old, it is certainly worth looking a a different motor maker.
It might have something to do with which one you choose. I have a 19.5 HP Intek twin. It doesn't have that compression release on it, not sure if the new twins have it now or not. Mine does not have it, it relies solely on intake/exhaust valve opening overlap for the compression release. That one needs the valves set every 60 - 100 hrs or so, or it gets very hard to start. 60 hours for me with that mower was 15 weeks or about 4 months, and the mowing season here is about 8 months long, plus another 2 or 3 times in between over the winter. So basically I had to run the valves on it once a year.
I had 21hp inteck. Just after the warranty ran out head gasket went.Cleaned and checked head and block. Replaced gasket. It blew between the thin strip between cylinder and pushrods. 1yr later...same failure...repaired again .Start of new season cam went...so mower went... S&B poor design that's why engines fail.Had Agway prior to Deere over 20 yrs.then block cracked...Then got Deere, mower good ..engine suck !!!
Before pulling a cam shaft out, I normally conform that I know where the timing marks are. If a mark is missing or obliterated, I mark the drive gear while I still have the old shaft in it's original position for a reference. If you have had stray pieces of metal floating around inside the crank case (like a broken cam), there is the possibility that marks have been altered. Don't ask me how I know that. That aside, thanks for posting. This was a good overview of how this motor goes together. I would be able to do the job after watching this video.
Someone should organize a class action suit against Briggs for this defect that should have been a recall to provide an updated part that doesn't fail so easily.
Exactly! It's a garbage motor.
By far the best and most informative person and understandable person in the world with no attitude and no bunch of bull**** that most videos on u tube seem to have she has saved me much frustration time $$$$ on all of my small engine and equipment problems I WILL NOT ATTEMPT ANY REPAIR ON ANY OF THEM WITHOUT WATCHING HER VIDEOS I wished she would branch out into trucks,automotive, tractors , equipment, implements, appliances, and basically anything else that repair and maintenance has to be done on that would make my and everyone else's life so much easier and enjoyable and on top of all of that she's DAMN GOOD LOOKING
Aw! Thanks! Vehicle repair coming soon!
Best how to video on the net. I watched a couple before this one and was still sketchy about doing the job. Now I'm confident I can. Thank you for putting it out there for us to see.
I like the way you handled that shaft like a pro!!
Thanks for the instructional video....I'm getting ready to tackle a 16.5 hp B & S Intek which I believe has a broken compression release valve. I recently used your video to replace the rear axle seals on my own tractor. Your instruction is clear and concise! Between your videos and Donyboy73, you guys are the best on RUclips. Keep up the great work and thanks for the effort you put into these videos.
Great video! Many have already said, you're a born teacher, and an expert mechanic. Your customers don't realize how lucky they are to have found you!
I've heard of Briggs engines having lack of lubrication problems on the top ends and the guy at the Ace Hardware shop told me they use longer oil filters and it increases the oil capacity and fixes the oil starvation problems. Hope this helps others
I do this. And the filter is actually less expensive than OEM.
Have an older B&S 18.5 single on cub cadet I use a Motorcraft FL400S, for giggles I installed a few magnets I tore off a magnetic tool strip from Harbor Fr Zip tied 3 of them on. I also use Harley Davidson oil. The mower is about 20 yrs. old with 325 hrs.(one owner, small yard) Just replaced head gasket and valves didn't know about Cam shaft.
Of course they are out of camshafts, because the OEM Briggs and Scrap Iron is only slightly better than the aftermarkets hence why they are out!
No break-in lube on the valve tips or cam lobes?
Somebody needs to learn how to properly use a torque wrench.
I’ve learned my lesson about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.
This was a very worthwhile video, the more complicated repairs are to me the most interesting. Love the way you demonstrate how to do this work, great video!
Thank you very much!
Had the trigger break off. Replaced with OEM camshaft. Grenaded the engine after 10 hours. Bought a new engine, so far so good.
Great video. I understand your just doing an instructional but you should always emphasize the use prelube all contact points especially the cam bearing points using an assembly lube like gear oil or motor oil, grease on tappets for push rods etc.
Any engine that is reassembled should be prelubed.
I watched a lot of videos (and read a lot of forums) before doing this repair. Like others, I got to this diagnosis after a dead battery, then a burnt out alternator (also replaced). I happen to have the exact same engine you worked on, from a Husqvarna riding mower. I only got 3 years on the first cam shaft, if this breaks again I may look into an engine swap to a two cylinder. Your video highlighted in advance several "ask me how I know" moments that a DIYer like myself might make. Even your point about checking the valve clearances after a test ride.
Super video by a most knowledgable person who knows how to teach and present. Thanks.
Yo yo hi from the 🇬🇧.. just have dinner so will watch in a tick.. hope all the family are well
Yo yo ole bean!
Hey, hey!! Sweatin' it out over here, but everyone's healthy! That is enough to ask for these days. ;-) Hopin' to jump on with ya'll tomorrow!
@@Chickanic more then welcome
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 hello me friend.. hope all is good
While I probably won't attempt this myself it does explain exactly what is going on with my mower's engine. Makes it a lot easier to talk to my SE mechanic. Thanks.
Good stuff. Showing a difficult repair so everybody can follow takes skill. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely the best camshaft video on RUclips. What is funny here is I have just the opposite issue that you had on this engine. I am getting the intake valve bump on each stroke after it is running. it backfires and shuts down. The other thing is that I have read some of the comments below and find everybody that is anybody thinks you are the best of the best. You have a new subscriber. I have been fighting this engine for a few months off and on. I am 90% sure this is the problem. If not, I will let you know what I find. I am on my way out to the shop to remove the engine from the tractor and clean it up.
Thank you!!! You do an excellent job of showing and explaining what needs to be done for a number of different repairs. I have learned a lot from you and can see why your subs are growing so fast.
Thanks Ken!
Thank you very much for the excellent video. I thought my Briggs & Stratton Intek needed a valve adjustment. I watched several videos and tried many times to get the engine started, with no success. After watching your video, I now know the reason is the camshaft has failed. I am going to attempt to replace it like you showed in your video. I feel that if someone is patient and determined, he or she can duplicate what you have shown in this video. Much love and appreciation to you!
I love it when people say "Ask me how I know". Experience is an expensive teacher.
Great video. I went through all of this a year ago for a bad camshaft(aftermarket). Briggs 17.5 .Ran great all season. This season, ran good until it stalled out and now will not start. It cranks easy, not struggling to get past compression, replaced carb, magneto, adjusted valves just like you did. Turns over, gets spark, but muffler gets piping hot. Sprayed some cleaner into plug hole. Followed directions on can. Tried to fire up. Only thing that changed is that muffler now stays cool but engine will not fire up. At my wits end. I'm thinking camcshaft. As you say, ask me how I know. Thanks again
Getting into the crankcase is very similar on a 3 or 5 HP or one of these big boys. Same steps and care to not mess up the governor and to clean off the gasket surfaces. So this video is good for those of us who have no space for riders, but still have to get in and replace a governor or camshaft. Of course, the little ones do not have the oil pump to consider. I have a few questions. I assume you lubed the cam and just did not show it. Correct? the new lifters are interchangeable between Intake & Exhaust? If the lifters were being reused, is it important to put the Intake back in the intake and the Exhaust back into the Exhaust? Here in Flint, there are many retired GM employees. I have had several tell me that GM was a great company when it was run by Engineers. Each year they looked at the problems that would develop and make changes to fix that weakness. According to the Retirees, what ruined GM was the Engineers were make to take a back seat to the cost accountants. "Make it better" was replaced by "Make it cheaper" and the damage destroyed the company. I suspect many once great companies were ruined by the Accountants, Briggs included. Ignoring known problems to keep a price point might work in the short run, but not long term. The GM Ignition Switch problem was the same thing. Make it Cheaper cost people their lives when the car died at a bad time because of a switch that should have been fixed, but was ignored and continued. Good Video!!
I've the same problem many thanks for this video as a machinist over 50+ years I just parked the mower in the barn. I never go into any Maintenace without checking how to do the job by usually a manual or like this tutorial. Again, thank you for the infomation.
As usual very informative and easy to follow. Love your work !! 🚜
Don’t know why I am watching this. I love your style of presentation and clear explanation.Keep it up.
No assembly lube on the new parts?
I was going to comment on the same thing. At least brush a little oil on the parts.
You are ONE HELLUVA MECHANIC…!!!! My patience wouldn’t allow me to perform this task. U R AWESOME!!!
great video, I get a lot in my shop too!
How's it going up in Muskoka, eh?
I'm learning how to fix my riding lawn mowers. Out of all the guys I have watched...you really did a good job from start to finish. You were very easy to follow..I'm a lady also and sometimes the guys just go way to fast.....
I've noticed on the compression release failures on the Briggs engines it's most always in the same place, where the metal is machined thin. You'd think after so many issues with these Briggs would've done a little correcting on it. Oh well, guess they gotta make that money. Another nice video Chickanic ☻
Thanks John! Just to let you know, I was waiting to send packages until I got stickers done. I did get your Chickanic shirt made. ;-) Sending a hat too.
@@Chickanic awesome, thanks so much, I'll wear it with Chickanic pride!!!
Heck I wear overalls like MowerMedic1, teeth like Taryl's, tats like Mick's and white hair like Mustie's
but it has yet to make me a better mower mechanic. :)
Indeed!!! My John Deere store has had so many of these camshaft replacements they have actually made an art sculpture for the shop on display! Seems like a recall or class action lawsuit is appropriate. Mine failed after 49 hours. Estimated cost for repair...$605 Labor was $345. They were even charging $50 shipping on the parts. WHAT A RIPOFF!
It’s ridiculous they haven’t corrected it after all these years, they know there’s a problem, fix it so we don’t have to spent this enormous amount each time it fails. Thanks Steven 👍🏼
A huge compliment to you for producing a safe, clean demonstration on repairing this major problem and representing the true professional mechanical technicians!
Wow a socket set with a 10mm socket present! That is impressive! :-D
Craftsman has it I have a 10 millimeter socket in my set
Somewhere there's a socket rail with nothing but 10mm sockets from various tool manufacturers.
To reinstall the pan with the old seal in place a real thin piece of around .003 shimstock placed around the crank at the seal location then when installing the pan gently squeeze the shimstock until it is inside the seal lip, then press the pan into place then gently remove the shimstock. The tip of a screwdriver can damage the seal surface.👍
Another way is to put the shimstock inside the seal and direct it over the crank as you install the pan once the seal is over the edge onto the crank gently remove the shimstock
The newer cams are pressed together of pieces, not cast. The washer on one end slid on the splines that keep it from turning. The cam slid upward far enough to disconnect the oil pump drive. It broke the bottom cover when it pried itself out, resulting in a visible oil leak in time to shut it down. The older cams are cast, the bosses are bigger and will not interchange. The holes in the case can not be enlarged to fit the older cam because they are too thin. The older series of engines are better, and worth keeping running.
Fabulous, This mechanic knows what she is doing. I try to watch everything she does.
My 91 year old mother-in-law called me says my lawn mower starter is smoking. Nota common problem. I order a starter and solenoid and go to her house 30 miles away. She bought a new battery. I replace the starter and solenoid. Try to start engine won't go past compression. She then tells me it backfired. I know immediately what is wrong. I don't want to do it ,not hard but I thought it would be easier to take to Ag Pro in Middleburg, FL. I told them what it needed. Two days later they call and said it only needed a battery. I said the battery was new he says it was bad I sad I need the old battery he says I would have a $26.00 core charge. I go pick it up they charge me $205.00. I got the old battery Drove 45miles home . Guess what it won't start. Called them and he said to bring it back I said I don't think I will be bringing anything back there. I call the main Ag Pro on Philips highway, Jacksonville, Fl. told what happened, they said to bring to them. Drove there explaining that I needed the camshaft replaced, broken compression release. Two weeks later they call and say that they adjusted the values, and would 3 more hours diagnostic time, I ask when he adjusted the valves didn't he notice the compression release was not working She said she would check with the tech and call me beck. When she calls back they don't need the diag. time that they could replace the engine for $1050.00 or the camshaft would be about the same price. I said I will come get the mower. I go in the rain to get it, we load it buy a camshaft from there parts room drive home in a rain storm, back the trailer in my shop out of the rain. Lower the tail gate and first thing I see is the gas cap is off been sitting in the rain no cap. Open hood spark plug wire off, no plug in engine. I take fuel line off tried to turn engine with starter dead, check my new battery I just paid $205.00 for it had .46v. Removed engine and camshaft compression release broke in six pieces. Removed valve cover gasket gone. Sorry this is so long. Ed in Callahan, FL. I have made a living for over 50 years repairing auxiliary equipment large and small. Never seen so much diagnostic time for a one cylinder briggs that are known for this problem.
Forget about the diagnosis time - what about the incredible incompetence of these so-called professional repair shops? I’m 71 now and have been doing all my small (and large) engine repairs since I was 14. I don’t trust any shop to fix things correctly, period. I just finished a 106% rebuild on a Cub Cadet Tank 60 Commercial zero turn mower. It was so screwed over when I bought it last year and much of the damage was done by previous shops. Runs great now and reduced my mowing time from three hours initially to exactly one hour.
You did an amazing job of explaining the cam replacement l have been doing golf course maintenance for 30 years you put most instructors to shame thank you from Canada
Briggs should have continued to use their patented machined bump on cam lobe for compression release like the classic flatheads! And the one piece cast cam. Never had these problems with briggs flathead engines. I have an 8 hp horizontal shaft flathead briggs nearly 40 years old and still runs good after wearing out the troy bilt tiller it was on ! I have been repairing small engines for 40 years and never before seen such cheap made junk!
Never seen a side valve have this problem
Great video. Would be glad for a hint on the best solution to the problem you referred to of cleaning aluminum sealing surfaces.
I'd like to know your secret for cleaning the mating surfaces.
Chisel, scraper made from cold saw blade or a gasket scraper: www.tomorrowstechnician.com/new-gasket-scrapers-from-lang-tools/
I use a scraper made from a cold saw blade - way better steel than anything else, but a sharpened flat file isn't bad either
Great video, things have changed since my Small Engine repair in High School. That was in 1971.
Why don't they just put a Stronger starter in so it doesn't need Decompression!
my mower wont crank, you said check the valve actuation, i did. you were 100% right. Motor out, base off, and the decompression lever pieces were all broken. thank you. off to buy parts tomorrow.
This is a crazy world were living in you responded to me a few weeks ago about your kubota tractor. Well I have been trying to fix a lawn mower that I have so I can give it to my 82 year old neighbor. Been trying to adjust the valves on 19 hp Intek I will not turn over for nothing so I looked for the little bump on the rocker an nothing . Thank you so very much for showing me that
Awesome! So glad I could help!! Let me know how it turns out!
There was a time if you had a Briggs you had the fastest and most dependable mini bike in town. Of course we took them apart for the fun of it, sometimes even made new head gaskets out of cereal boxes. That was a loong time ago. Its amazing to me that a company like Briggs would gamble a great hard earned reputation to save .50 cents . Another great video, keep em coming!!!
Thanks Jeff!
Sad a number of their engine lines are OFF SHORE !
Briggs & Stratton was ran into bankruptcy by bad management,assets and trademarks are now owned by someone else.
Thanks for this video.
My cam broke last year. Somehow managed to make it crank for 6 months until it finally busted the relay. That's when I gave up and watching your video got an idea of how everything went.
I chose not to go back with a new camshaft. Even the Briggs & Stratton AMAZON account has reviews that state the newest cams being sold are cheap china knockoffs and are breaking the cam within 3 or 4 months of replacement.
On my 17.5 it has the cylinder air filter, unlike the older 2005 briggs style oblong shape. So taking the filter off is easy enough and the air inlet port is easy to cover with your fingers.
I ran mine last week after the clean out of cam shrapnel left inside. Ran very good. Feels a little peppier in taller grass than it did with the counter weight attached. Hopefully she's golden for awhile now. Keeping that mower after buying a LT1 50" the other week also. The Troy Bilt will be my hillside mower while my LT1 50 will handle the bliss of the flatland....
Thanks again for a great informative video.
Thank you for this tutorial, I ended up using a Chinese cam shaft and it is working so far. Again thanks for taking the time to make this video!!
Thanks for the great video. I was pretty sure the automatic compression release had broken on my B&S engine. The valves were adjusted perfectly, the battery was charged and less than a year old. But the starter could barely turn the engine over. I didn't want to go to all the trouble of removing and opening up the engine and find that my theory was wrong. I turned the engine over by hand and watched the intake valve, as you instructed. There was no little hiccup so I opened the engine up. There at the bottom of the crankcase were the pieces of the compression release! The new cam and related gaskets and seals are on order (genuine B&S). Thank you @Chickanic!
I repair small engine equipment not full time but a side job. Im not a pro but been doing it over 20yr at my home shop. Intek Briggs are aweful. Cost of my labor and camshaft and seals and oil pan gasket not cheap. Cheaper to find good used engine especially if the bad one has a lot of hours or not maintained like supposed to. But I still have people that want to keep the original engine. Up to them. I just inform them and do what they want!
Thanks for the great video and your help. Don't forget to tell people to oil parts before assembly or they might put them in dry and especially pour some oil into the oil pump.
Just did this job today, only the decompression lever went through the cam gear and broke 1/4 of the gear off. Don't believe the any body that sayes " it stopped and I think it ran out of gas" typical briggs and scrap iron. Thank You
Great video with lots of details and tips. These engines have so many problems. Cams, sump gaskets, and head gaskets are all prone to failure.
My 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton Intek has been running strong for 23 Years !
Thank you for this video. I am now in the process of replacing the cam due to a compression release failure, I found that the main drive pulley bolt was so tight it would not even loosen with an air impact wrench so I heated the bolt using a torch (with wife close by with a fire extinguisher), and the bolt came loose immediately . Pass this along if you like.
I've watched several of the cam videos. This is best.
You are a natural born teacher. Chickanic makes it happen, while other chicks are nappin. Great Job!
where was this video in 2016 when i broke my VW camshaft!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i needed you bestie
I could watch you work on engines all day. And yes, I’m learning also.
Thank you for this video, it helped me when I went to check my decompression spring, even though it turned out to only be a bent aluminum pushrod-which I replaced with a steel one. Never knew it was necessary to check the lash every year or so.
Great job! the only thing I would add would be to inspect and retrieve all broken parts, there was no mention about where the spring went etc. And lubricating all wear points during assembly.
Great video!!! Honestly one of the better detailed and great flow.
I just finished my repair and followed this video.
Two of the sump bolts didn't take. One broke while torturing and the other stripped out.
But it's going back on the tractor. I guess I'll see 🤙
A most excellent video, especially the detailed explanation on the compression release. May I suggest a tool for you to use while installing the cover back on & the shaft seal. Perhaps instead of using a screw driver, try a transmission lip seal installation tool. It's a tool with a thin/thicker piece of wire on each end. The wires are bent into a loop & crimped on each end. The rounded edges diminish the possibility of cutting a seal. If you do a search, it'll come up. Thanks for taking the time to make this most informative video.
Very cool. Almost a timely posting. I did my 540cc last weekend. The operation was a success. I got lucky with a Briggs dealer just 4 miles away who had all of the parts including the cam for reasonable prices even compared to online prices. And the guy was very helpful!
That is awesome!
Local is usually better support local businesses im 15 and work at my local mower shop. anybody can fix lawn equipment with a little interest and motivation you can do it also having all the tools really helps most people don’t have a lot of tools or access
I've run into this problem a few times . Cam, gskt and oil seal run run about $120. Good video.
What a great video Ms Chic, wish this video came out 4 months earlier, same thing happened on my Husqvarna Tractor same motor, was at the end of the warrenty they sent it out to get fixed, it came back, notice oil leak and sent it out again.. I used 3 or 4 times and noticed it blowing oil out the case. took the motor off and there was a hole in the block and one of the bolts holding the sump cover on was only finger tight, l took the cover off and they had broken the casting and tried to jb weld it. Of course they said nothing they could do was off warrenty. Tried to find one of these motors good luck, ended up buying a old John Deere with the 17 horse motor on it. was an older 5 speed and didnt care for that but paid very short money, took the motor out and dropped it in the husq and off l went.. Next time l have this video and will do it myself. Thanks this was a great video
Thank you for making this! You saved me $350 in labor charges AND 3 weeks lead time to get it fixed! My B&S warranty expired 18 days before the little rod snapped off. Figures...
After replacing the mechanism 3 times in 2 years on one tractor . . . My fix now is . . . permanent, easier, and cheaper.
ruclips.net/video/c8SUueqRzAs/видео.html
I have heard that stacking multiple head gaskets will do the same thing as my fix. I have yet another mower with the same problem that I will try that on.
Another careful and meticulous job (in the wood pile no less!) that shouldn't have needed to be done. The inside of that engine was pristine! It's obviously been well cared for, and judging by the wear on the gear teeth and the lifters has low run hours. What a terrible design on the part of B&S that those decompression release components fail so easily. I might have given B&S some slack if this was a neglected and abused engine, but this one looked brand new! I'm glad you were able to do a proper repair and return this unit to your customer. I hope your customers appreciate what you do for them.
Best video I watched to change the cam. Seems that the Briggs cams are the same Chicom parts that are on Amazon for $30.
My 21hp single cylinder starts like new now. The only time I got stumped after watching your great show was by lining up at the slot mark on the cam instead of that damn tiny dot and it would not drop in. Rookie mistake. I hope this one lasts 12 years like the original cause this was a pita. Thanks
Another thing for me to look forward to on this engine. I have replace the head gasket twice on this model of engine over the course of about 6-7 years because it started blowing blue smoke.
On the second replacement, I messed up the valve gaps and couldn’t get it started. If this is that common, I guess it’s only a matter of time until I’ll need to replace the cam shaft.