I wonder what the cage-like part that moves is? it is easy to forget the pump shaft doing that way, some people remove the pump cover in the beginning.You need a set of those bolt remover that bites into the bolt and turn it. It works great. sometimes it works to turn the cover too and it will move the bolt.
You can rotate the crank until the intake valve is open, set the exhaust valve and then roll the crank until the exhaust is open and set the intake valve.
Reason can broke is most likely not changing the oil enough or running it low. You can tell this engine was not taking care of. Hell he never adjusted the lifters. The cam broke because they use the compression release broke breaking the cam. The cam was stuck because it was stuck on the exhaust lobe opening the ext. valve. He took off the valve cover to see why the engine spun free and no valve movement means broken cam. Also check your pushrods for being bent. You can use a steel pushrod on the intake as that alm. one like to bend to easy.
Best way to help the oil seal is to use a automotive window bone. This will really help since it is made of nylon which will make sure the seal is not cut or nicked. Using a feeler gauge is not the trick, Just saying Jeff.
Also a bicycle tire removal and seating tool, also called a 'bone'. Curved, just sharp enough, and just the right size to use the shaft to lever against.
According to the B&S repair manual, one of the bolts in each of the crankcase cover styles is supposed to have sealant. The manual shows a photo of exactly which bolt gets sealant for each engine.
Nothing is "given". Maybe "provided"? Customers, presumably, pay for everything, including any free stuff. The seller simply adds to the price, then "gives" things away.
Look into getting KNIPEX Pliers Wrenches, I swear to you they're the best tool I've ever bought. You'll never strip another bolt or nut if you can get one of them on it to break the torque. Hands down, best tool I've ever bought.
Good job Jeff, I would like add an suggestion in a problem not mentioned on the Briggs & Stratton engine. The intake tappet/lifter in engine I serviced was seized, I dont know if this is the root cause for breakage of the compression mechanism or cam gear found in other youtube videos; just theory, I believe it should be carefully noted.
I don't know if you check comments on a video this old, but I have a question. I have a Troy Bilt mower with a Briggs Intek engine. The original owner was using it, hit something, and never could get it to start again. She took it to a neighbor of mine that was a shadetree small engine mechanic. He diagnosed it as a locked up engine, and she didn't want to pay for an engine, so she left it with him. It sat in his backyard for a couple of years before it was given to me. Since it had a locked up engine, I just used it for parts and never even checked it. It sat in my backyard for a year or so, before I finally got around to breaking it down. When I started messing with it, I found that it was building up too much compression to turn over. The valves were out of adjustment, so I adjusted them and it fired right up and ran perfectly. I eventually replaced the parts I stole from it, and I ran it a few times with no issues. I eventually found out that the deck was roached, so I parked it while I looked for a deck. It sat for about a year since I have five other mowers, and when I went to start it, it is now building up too much compression again. Is that what it would typically do if the compression release is broken?
Our PONY had all the signs of a busted Cam so for now we took a long Magnet & put through the oil filler tube & we caught the Lip piece of the Cam & lil bit of Misc metal piece & will change the oil next week.... ✌
Thanks for the great video, really enjoyed the heck out of that! I really hate getting the old sump gaskets off of Briggs engines, they seem to be more difficult than any other make.
They have NOT redesigned the ACR on the cam. I've repaired my B&S 31000-series engine twice already in about 200 hours. The new parts are identical to the old parts. B&S should be ashamed.
The Very First Thing That I Would Have Done is Pressure Wash The Engine Or Used Degreaser. Good Tip Is When You Are Ready To Tighten The Bolts, Use A Marking Pen & Mark The Bolt Tightening Sequence Near The Bolt Holes On The Sump. That's If You Clean The Outside Of The Sump, Un-Like In This Video. It Doesn't Take Much To Clean These Guys. Not A Good Way To Use A Wood Chisel. My God Jeff You Should Have Put A New Bolt In The Pump. I Would Not Be Happy If You Done That To My Motor. You Don't Need to Be At TDC To Adjust The Valves. If One Is Fully Down You Can Adjust The Other. W D 40 Actually Dilutes The Oil You Put On. I Would Never Put A Dirty Sump Back On With Out Cleaning The Outside . Over All Not A Bad Job I Guess....
24:08 I’m having trouble with oil leaking out through this casing. I’m not sure why because I’m getting these screws as tight as I could without damaging them. Do you happen to have the part # for this o ring?
At 21:40 you could have moved the entire plate, which would have moved the screw just enough to loosen it, then grab it with vise grips....OR use a dremel tool to cut the flats down on the bolt, maybe to get the next size down socket.
Hey jeff same thing happen to my mover but the cam is fine the govnor/slinger is messed up the compression release things came off do you have the part numbers
Good video. I will remove that oil pump cover when the case has that bottom cover off...just in case those bolts give me a problem. I would never have put that bolt back though. Hardware store I will go...
I have thought about starting a RUclips channel. I have enough machines to keep me going for a year or so, but there is one thing stopping me. I have found that my machines respond better if I assist the new parts with copious amounts of foul language. I could never do my best work and still be monetized at the same time, lol.
LMAO @ @ oh my, my, my!! "Combustion Stroke" it's top dead centre of the "compression stroke". I do hope the customer see's or hears about how you mangled that little bolt and didn't replace it. That is NOT the condition you leave customers equipment in!!
Jeff I am a Master Service Tech and would like to say over all you do decent work ….NOT perfect …..Rather effective ….With that being said I from time to time come across lawn mower mechanics that truly have a passion …...both to learn as well as teach others . And I would be lying if I said you didn't have skills and or knowledge . However in this video I noticed several accounts of improper practice as well as 1 account of false identification of parts . Iam not calling you out to lambaste the situation rather inform . And I am certainly no hater or troll …..But you called the Tappets {lifters} …..Common mistake and easily forgivable by most because it is or was apparent what you where talking about ….LoL …...Trust me I still receive flack from some of my potential viewers about calling a solenoid a setteloid …...So I am not stereotyping ….But Jeff you advocate the Rocker arm pivots jamming screw {Torx} was 60 inch pounds yet proceeded to further torque it after the torque wrench clicked . This isn't ideal because you risk snapping the pivot or damaging the actual rocker arm stud . Jeff Tappets are common on most Briggs engines but lifters are rare …..To actually call a lifter a lifter it must be adjustable or hydro such as that of a Kohler Command for example. So Tappets are commonly found on modern small engines . You specify that you use Backyard methods...... Just don't apply Shade Tree Tactics as proper tools are imperative in many cases to deliver the best results for a customer . I wont to note that my opening comment wasn't intended to sound as if I was the proper procedure Police LOL...and there is no crime in misidentification of parts so long as your collective viewers are able to distinguish the difference in the mistake . And clearly anyone could . ….But in the last few videos I have watched on your channel I have witnessed you trying to apply vise grips to a oil pump cover screw to remove it …….bending of a blower housing to remove a twin cylinder coil or armature from a cannibalized engine …….Now granted it was a junk engine but seeing you committed to the task....well often you disregard logistics because your fixated on the speed of the repair …..{Example} using what appeared to be a chisel to drive the oil pump screw towards a loosened state might make many viewers cringe . Still I wont judge to harshly as we all find our selves in troublesome situations. So keep up the good work ….You have made many great videos that are very informative ….Just watch those shade tree tactics as I am sure your not trying to advocate them upon your viewers .
thank you for the comment! and tips! You sir are correct on all counts. I treat lawn and garden equipment rough they are tools to me.. And I do "hack" it up a bit in my videos for entertainment purposes : ) . I am also a motorcycle mechanic. My mode of operation is completely different when working on bikes. lol!
I always put a gasket or sealant which ever is recommended. I may not have shown that in this video... It did not leak any oil when running so I must have installed a gasket or sealant.
These motors are pretty much indestructible. Human error is their ONLY enemy. You could throw that back together haphazardly and it would still fire. I understand you need to fill video time but, rotating the torque is not that important. Oh, that part you refer to as the governor......... it’s the oil slinger!😂
When turtle talking you don't go beyond where it clicks so you get a 60 inch pounds you put 75 on it because you went to far I'm just being a little critical of your bad habits
Worst engines ever ... The compression release will always fail and the debris will eat up the timing gear, cam gear, governor, causing metal all in the engine The head gasket are constantly blowing. . Briggs should had put an extra head bolt next to where they've always blow, middle right side .. . Not enough pressure to keep the head gasket down. .Total junk ....
I wonder what the cage-like part that moves is? it is easy to forget the pump shaft doing that way, some people remove the pump cover in the beginning.You need a set of those bolt remover that bites into the bolt and turn it. It works great. sometimes it works to turn the cover too and it will move the bolt.
That's is the counter balancer block, takes vibration out of engine !!
You can rotate the crank until the intake valve is open, set the exhaust valve and then roll the crank until the exhaust is open and set the intake valve.
Jeff you are lucky with the little damage that engine had I seen some engine let go and blown holes from the engine casings. Thanks for the videos.
Very useful video. Just replaced my camshaft because of that mechanism flaw. Works great. Thanks a lot.
Glad it helped
Darn. Wanted to see it run.
I love the sound of the oil can, it reminds me of the wizard of oz.
Reason can broke is most likely not changing the oil enough or running it low. You can tell this engine was not taking care of. Hell he never adjusted the lifters. The cam broke because they use the compression release broke breaking the cam. The cam was stuck because it was stuck on the exhaust lobe opening the ext. valve. He took off the valve cover to see why the engine spun free and no valve movement means broken cam. Also check your pushrods for being bent. You can use a steel pushrod on the intake as that alm. one like to bend to easy.
Best way to help the oil seal is to use a automotive window bone. This will really help since it is made of nylon which will make sure the seal is not cut or nicked. Using a feeler gauge is not the trick, Just saying Jeff.
Also a bicycle tire removal and seating tool, also called a 'bone'. Curved, just sharp enough, and just the right size to use the shaft to lever against.
@@joeymitchell3863 You are correct and right on with your logic too. vf
What's with squirting all of that oil onto parts that are in a crankcase with oil in it and gonna be covered in oil the first time that engine cranks.
According to the B&S repair manual, one of the bolts in each of the crankcase cover styles is supposed to have sealant. The manual shows a photo of exactly which bolt gets sealant for each engine.
Didn't he use LockTight on them,thought I saw that...
@@tashathayer6427 You would normally use something like blue Loctite on all the bolts.
@@tashathayer6427 He used gasket maker, he was supposed to use loctite. You NEVER put gasket maker on bolt threads like he did.
@@fourbyfourer That's What I Thought I Seen Him Do Too.. You Use Blue Lock Tight And You Don't Need Much.
Great video, thank you. However, where does that seal Spring go? I’m stopped because of that.
seal spring? the spring for the seal pops into the seal's groove
This guy knows his SHIT! I WOULD have like to see it run.
Really? Using an old stripped screw?? Very disappointed with that kind of oh well attitude. Never touch my stuff....
Buy yourself an automotive trans seal installer for lip seals. Works awesome on those seals. No cutting
Thanks for the tip!
Nothing is "given". Maybe "provided"?
Customers, presumably, pay for everything, including any free stuff.
The seller simply adds to the price, then "gives" things away.
The oil can reminded me of the tin man for some reason ! Great video Jeff!
Thanks 👍
Look into getting KNIPEX Pliers Wrenches, I swear to you they're the best tool I've ever bought. You'll never strip another bolt or nut if you can get one of them on it to break the torque. Hands down, best tool I've ever bought.
The motor should have been cleaned thoroughly before even taken apart.
good tip!
Good job Jeff, I would like add an suggestion in a problem not mentioned on the Briggs & Stratton engine.
The intake tappet/lifter in engine I serviced was seized, I dont know if this is the root cause for breakage of the compression mechanism or cam gear found in other youtube videos; just theory, I believe it should be carefully noted.
Great job. I miss working on those motors. My problem is that I never seem to be able to put it back together. Maybe it’s cause I work at Ford. 👍🏻
Was the floor grit on the cam shaft part of the assembly lube?
yep
I don't know if you check comments on a video this old, but I have a question. I have a Troy Bilt mower with a Briggs Intek engine. The original owner was using it, hit something, and never could get it to start again. She took it to a neighbor of mine that was a shadetree small engine mechanic. He diagnosed it as a locked up engine, and she didn't want to pay for an engine, so she left it with him. It sat in his backyard for a couple of years before it was given to me. Since it had a locked up engine, I just used it for parts and never even checked it. It sat in my backyard for a year or so, before I finally got around to breaking it down. When I started messing with it, I found that it was building up too much compression to turn over. The valves were out of adjustment, so I adjusted them and it fired right up and ran perfectly. I eventually replaced the parts I stole from it, and I ran it a few times with no issues. I eventually found out that the deck was roached, so I parked it while I looked for a deck. It sat for about a year since I have five other mowers, and when I went to start it, it is now building up too much compression again. Is that what it would typically do if the compression release is broken?
Yes if a valve adjustment doesnt help it is most likely the compression release located on the cam.
Great video. Think you could have skipped a lot of the gasket removal.
Our PONY had all the signs of a busted Cam so for now we took a long Magnet & put through the oil filler tube & we caught the Lip piece of the Cam & lil bit of Misc metal piece & will change the oil next week.... ✌
Sorry to hear that
Thanks for the great video, really enjoyed the heck out of that! I really hate getting the old sump gaskets off of Briggs engines, they seem to be more difficult than any other make.
Yep there he’ll but with correct tools it’s pretty fast
But I use electric ingraver all the way around sump, one line only
Where did small plastic piece with Reed valve go
Can you make a video on how the pressure lubed engines work and how the oil filter and pump work in those engines?
Did Briggs and Stratton redesign this common problem relief valve or are you putting the same problem back in.
They have NOT redesigned the ACR on the cam. I've repaired my B&S 31000-series engine twice already in about 200 hours. The new parts are identical to the old parts. B&S should be ashamed.
Toro 216d front blade belt spindle whoble
?
The Very First Thing That I Would Have Done is Pressure Wash The Engine Or Used Degreaser. Good Tip Is When You Are Ready To Tighten The Bolts, Use A Marking Pen & Mark The Bolt Tightening Sequence Near The Bolt Holes On The Sump. That's If You Clean The Outside Of The Sump, Un-Like In This Video. It Doesn't Take Much To Clean These Guys. Not A Good Way To Use A Wood Chisel. My God Jeff You Should Have Put A New Bolt In The Pump. I Would Not Be Happy If You Done That To My Motor. You Don't Need to Be At TDC To Adjust The Valves. If One Is Fully Down You Can Adjust The Other. W D 40 Actually Dilutes The Oil You Put On. I Would Never Put A Dirty Sump Back On With Out Cleaning The Outside . Over All Not A Bad Job I Guess....
looks like the seal on the shaft came out when you had the cover back on.
How about some EP (extreme pressure) lube on the cam - lifter interface?
24:08 I’m having trouble with oil leaking out through this casing. I’m not sure why because I’m getting these screws as tight as I could without damaging them. Do you happen to have the part # for this o ring?
At 21:40 you could have moved the entire plate, which would have moved the screw just enough to loosen it, then grab it with vise grips....OR use a dremel tool to cut the flats down on the bolt, maybe to get the next size down socket.
I'd have just drilled the bolt head and extracted it with an easy out and replaced it with a new one.
Sometimes if you tap the bolt with a ballpeen Hamer that will loosen it not too hard
Excellent repair. Shame about not seeing it run though. Keep filming :)
Many thanks!
Absolutely awesome video. Thank you for making this video.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
How do we know it is awesome?? Never saw it running.....
That cam cover doesn't need to be super tight it just needs to be snug that's why you had trouble getting it out somebody else was in there before you
Hey jeff same thing happen to my mover but the cam is fine the govnor/slinger is messed up the compression release things came off do you have the part numbers
I wash out with kerosene in spray container and blow dry
Let it set over night to dip dry
Then oil it up really heavy
Good video. I will remove that oil pump cover when the case has that bottom cover off...just in case those bolts give me a problem. I would never have put that bolt back though. Hardware store I will go...
If that socket is twelve point used on the oil pump switch it out for a six👍
If this is a "common problem" then what is the common cause ? Is it a design flaw or too many people overtightening the tappets ?
Happen more to engine that don’t have valve lash adjustment every year
That’s what I see the most
I have thought about starting a RUclips channel. I have enough machines to keep me going for a year or so, but there is one thing stopping me. I have found that my machines respond better if I assist the new parts with copious amounts of foul language. I could never do my best work and still be monetized at the same time, lol.
I have the same engine seems like manuals and parts are difficult to find any pointers??
just dig in!
Looked like the govener fell out alignment off the lever as you were putting the sump cover on Jeff.
I thought so I like watching his videos but something might have went wrong the reason why he didn't show it running who knows 🥴
it was all good it ran great
@@mparker7739 I agree. A video running would've been nice but I suspect a tic tic boom. But hopefully not 🤷♂️
Did you ever conclude this video? If not I am sure that engine fired right up.
Yes it fired up, I messed up by not showing that
How would you ever try to remove cam without removing valve train ?
between those "foul" mouth chickens and that old school oil can, I couldn't quit laughing!!!!
jdretiree I’m digging the old oil can.
The balance weight appeared to be jammed.
LMAO @ @ oh my, my, my!! "Combustion Stroke" it's top dead centre of the "compression stroke".
I do hope the customer see's or hears about how you mangled that little bolt and didn't replace it. That is NOT the condition you leave customers equipment in!!
We wanna see it running!
I have been having editing problems....I lost several videos in the making
Nicely done
Thanks!
Jeff I am a Master Service Tech and would like to say over all you do decent work ….NOT perfect …..Rather effective ….With that being said I from time to time come across lawn mower mechanics that truly have a passion …...both to learn as well as teach others . And I would be lying if I said you didn't have skills and or knowledge . However in this video I noticed several accounts of improper practice as well as 1 account of false identification of parts . Iam not calling you out to lambaste the situation rather inform . And I am certainly no hater or troll …..But you called the Tappets {lifters} …..Common mistake and easily forgivable by most because it is or was apparent what you where talking about ….LoL …...Trust me I still receive flack from some of my potential viewers about calling a solenoid a setteloid …...So I am not stereotyping ….But Jeff you advocate the Rocker arm pivots jamming screw {Torx} was 60 inch pounds yet proceeded to further torque it after the torque wrench clicked . This isn't ideal because you risk snapping the pivot or damaging the actual rocker arm stud . Jeff Tappets are common on most Briggs engines but lifters are rare …..To actually call a lifter a lifter it must be adjustable or hydro such as that of a Kohler Command for example. So Tappets are commonly found on modern small engines . You specify that you use Backyard methods...... Just don't apply Shade Tree Tactics as proper tools are imperative in many cases to deliver the best results for a customer . I wont to note that my opening comment wasn't intended to sound as if I was the proper procedure Police LOL...and there is no crime in misidentification of parts so long as your collective viewers are able to distinguish the difference in the mistake . And clearly anyone could . ….But in the last few videos I have watched on your channel I have witnessed you trying to apply vise grips to a oil pump cover screw to remove it …….bending of a blower housing to remove a twin cylinder coil or armature from a cannibalized engine …….Now granted it was a junk engine but seeing you committed to the task....well often you disregard logistics because your fixated on the speed of the repair …..{Example} using what appeared to be a chisel to drive the oil pump screw towards a loosened state might make many viewers cringe . Still I wont judge to harshly as we all find our selves in troublesome situations. So keep up the good work ….You have made many great videos that are very informative ….Just watch those shade tree tactics as I am sure your not trying to advocate them upon your viewers .
thank you for the comment! and tips! You sir are correct on all counts. I treat lawn and garden equipment rough they are tools to me.. And I do "hack" it up a bit in my videos for entertainment purposes : ) . I am also a motorcycle mechanic. My mode of operation is completely different when working on bikes. lol!
It's not the space shuttle, just a lawn mower engine! By the way the device in question does LIFT the valves off there seats.
Nope, sorry, tappet is a lifter by means of lifting and opening the valves. Great job on the video!!
And no gasket or sealer on valve cover? You're kidding, right?
I always put a gasket or sealant which ever is recommended. I may not have shown that in this video... It did not leak any oil when running so I must have installed a gasket or sealant.
You do not use wd40 engine lube you are supposed to use strate motor oil dude
It will be fine
The only thing I see good on that engine is the wix oil filter 🥴
Good video but change your oil can !!!!
Dude, for fuck sake change that god damn oil pump screw! Anyone that’ll put a screw that jacked up back into an engine is a damn hack.
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
Loved the video by the way
Must be hard to make money on repairs like that...
You are right there.. I accepted it as a learning experience
These motors are pretty much indestructible. Human error is their ONLY enemy. You could throw that back together haphazardly and it would still fire. I understand you need to fill video time but, rotating the torque is not that important. Oh, that part you refer to as the governor......... it’s the oil slinger!😂
I did however enjoy the 10 minutes of gasket scraping footage in pt. 1. Very essential.
@@joec1360 I thought he was going to fast forward that...
@25:00
Had me cryin' lol
LOL!
WARNING!!!! do not set the valves like this man....
Google correct method!!!!
When turtle talking you don't go beyond where it clicks so you get a 60 inch pounds you put 75 on it because you went to far I'm just being a little critical of your bad habits
Worst engines ever ... The compression release will always fail and the debris will eat up the timing gear, cam gear, governor, causing metal all in the engine The head gasket are constantly blowing. . Briggs should had put an extra head bolt next to where they've always blow, middle right side .. . Not enough pressure to keep the head gasket down. .Total junk ....
That's not sealant, threadlocker
Useless WD 40
I stopped watching when you put the stripped-head screw back in the oil pump cover.
lol....I don't blame you
@@JeffsLittleEngineService 10 points awarded for honesty!
How come you did not change the oil filter
Sorry, but we don’t believe the engine ran.
LOL! my bad I should have showed that.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService
My Dad is working on his lawn tractor, we watched and then, video lost. His reaction was he blew it up and I agreed lol